@@s0nnyburnett not at all... I'm a journeyman toolmaker. I can and have worked in both. Why would I want to have to worry about 4 or 5 decimal places back when it only takes 2 or 3 for Metric? Trust me I like SAE. But in a machine shop metric is easier plain and simple. There is no debating this lol.
Action Lab just confirmed that it's the surface tension of the oil that holds them together more than anything else. But air pressure and electron sharing also plays a role.
Nice info video. Personally, however, I am still missing the information that the gauge blocks are available in several quality classes. Class 0 for calibrating gauges and measuring devices. (mostly in air-conditioned measuring rooms). Class 1 for testing gauges and setting gauges. Class 2 in manufacturing.... A Mitotoyo employee gave me the tip to draw the measuring surfaces over a piece of paper, which lies on a straight surface. The paper is soft and does not damage the measuring surfaces and thanks to the pores in the paper, it can absorb dirt. Why paper? Because cloths can leave fibers on the surfaces that could falsify the result ;)
AKA Joe Blocks. ( I guess a really old term for them) and elderly guy at a machine shop I worked at told me this is what they called them when he was training as a machinist in California.
If I asked who confesses to have dropped gage block sometime none is done it. It's like those animal videos when some dog took a dump on the floor or broke something and it's clear who done it but the dog be like I ain't done nothing.
Nobody at my manufacturer uses this much care unless it's a real critical measurement. Only need to mindful when 1 tenths can make or break what you need to know.
1. "...will rust. and you don't want to transfer oil that will contaminate the blocks". 2. "Apply some oil to the blocks". 3. Oil will add size to the block 4. "And you don't want to leave them attached with the oil, because they will get closer to each other". (I'm paraphrasing a little bit). Okie Dokie... :-/ (
What i personally do is store them in the original container (and follow the instructions given by manufacturer for storage) and for use, i do the following steps: 1. wipe them off completely, usually with a chemical that doesnt affect the metal, i tend to use a version of ethanol called t-röd. 2. I lightly touch the mating surfaces with my palms (to get the right amount of oil, you hands should feel dry but well hydrated) as the original inventor did before wringing them together in a circular motion 3. After i am done using them, i wring them apart (to avoid damaging the surfaces and since the method of using palm oil averages 120-150 kg, making pulling them apart a joke) and store them back in the original container according to the instructions from the manufacturer. Mine are the original gauge blocks produced by johansson and so, do not require anything beyond desiccant packs in the box and a good wiping after use but yours may be different.
@@JayKayKay7 it has been tested, wringing occurs in a complete vacuum (as in, it was tested on a space walk on the ISS) and without oil The vacuum has negligible effect but the oil shows a huge difference, such that a lab was needed to insure that there was no microscoping amount of oil left that could explain it. With an ethanol-cleaned set and no added oil, i get maybe 300 grams of force keeping my johansson blocks together while with the oil from my hands, the scale i used was maxed out at 100 kg.
Would using either gun oil are mineral oil be ok for less expensive Grade B Jo Blocks for us hobbiest? Good explanation of gage blocks. Sine Bar's,,will you do one in the future? Lov the Caliper clock,,,got make one,, too cool (@@)! thx Travis, great info. Bear
@@TITANSofCNC it is odd, that Mitutoyo themselves spell it two different ways, maybe just a language/culture difference between USA and rest of world, since they have a similar catalog with the gauge spelling. Would be interesting to hear Mitutoyo's reasoning for the different spelling. www.mitutoyo.co.jp/eng/support/service/catalog/09/E12014.pdf
I cant believe they are still working in Imperial at his shop...I was the guy who was like f**** Metric.. Then I used it. SOoooo much easier. lol
thank you
YEah it's really nice if you don't have sizes like 1.3645 +/- 0.0237 annymore :P
SAE FOREVER❤
0.03937" looks WAAAY better than 1mm
fractions and decimals too hard for your little brain?
@@s0nnyburnett not at all... I'm a journeyman toolmaker. I can and have worked in both. Why would I want to have to worry about 4 or 5 decimal places back when it only takes 2 or 3 for Metric? Trust me I like SAE. But in a machine shop metric is easier plain and simple. There is no debating this lol.
That Digital Caliper clock is amazing.
We had one in work, but it disappeared over a weekend
OMG! It totally is!
Have you check out Joe Pie's digital indicator hang in his shop over @ Advance Innovations ? Both are too cool (@@).
Action Lab just confirmed that it's the surface tension of the oil that holds them together more than anything else. But air pressure and electron sharing also plays a role.
Nice info video. Personally, however, I am still missing the information that the gauge blocks are available in several quality classes.
Class 0 for calibrating gauges and measuring devices. (mostly in air-conditioned measuring rooms).
Class 1 for testing gauges and setting gauges.
Class 2 in manufacturing....
A Mitotoyo employee gave me the tip to draw the measuring surfaces over a piece of paper, which lies on a straight surface. The paper is soft and does not damage the measuring surfaces and thanks to the pores in the paper, it can absorb dirt.
Why paper? Because cloths can leave fibers on the surfaces that could falsify the result ;)
I have some original Johansson (Joe) blocks from my grandfather ,circa 1910 .and some from Dearborn gage
Precision, that’s precision right their man!! 👍🏼
AKA Joe Blocks. ( I guess a really old term for them) and elderly guy at a machine shop I worked at told me this is what they called them when he was training as a machinist in California.
Easy to say. In Australia Mitutoyo square or Webber rectangular blocks are around AUD 14k ceramic about AUD 18k
Travis making another great video.
Now I want a set of gauge blocks....
Very informative. Thank you
Damn our shop uses and has been using gage blocks without gloves. No wonder some of them feel weird.
nice lesson
I got a used set on eBay. Totally cool.
Ceramic Blocks are insanely more expensive. 😅 $5K for a good set.
QM how long should it take for an inspection? Do you leave 1st OP to the operator? I know last op is critical, GO TITAN 300k soooon
If I asked who confesses to have dropped gage block sometime none is done it. It's like those animal videos when some dog took a dump on the floor or broke something and it's clear who done it but the dog be like I ain't done nothing.
if we would handle our sets like this we wouldnt get shit done lol
I was thinking the exact same thing lol
Nobody at my manufacturer uses this much care unless it's a real critical measurement. Only need to mindful when 1 tenths can make or break what you need to know.
Awesome video. What is that cup looking thing for in ceramic gauge block set?
So Chester Bennington is actually alive, I see.
did ceramic bond together?
1. "...will rust. and you don't want to transfer oil that will contaminate the blocks".
2. "Apply some oil to the blocks".
3. Oil will add size to the block
4. "And you don't want to leave them attached with the oil, because they will get closer to each other".
(I'm paraphrasing a little bit).
Okie Dokie... :-/ (
What i personally do is store them in the original container (and follow the instructions given by manufacturer for storage) and for use, i do the following steps:
1. wipe them off completely, usually with a chemical that doesnt affect the metal, i tend to use a version of ethanol called t-röd.
2. I lightly touch the mating surfaces with my palms (to get the right amount of oil, you hands should feel dry but well hydrated) as the original inventor did before wringing them together in a circular motion
3. After i am done using them, i wring them apart (to avoid damaging the surfaces and since the method of using palm oil averages 120-150 kg, making pulling them apart a joke) and store them back in the original container according to the instructions from the manufacturer.
Mine are the original gauge blocks produced by johansson and so, do not require anything beyond desiccant packs in the box and a good wiping after use but yours may be different.
Part of the 'wringing' phenomenon is a oiled surface attraction in addition to molecular forces and atmospheric pressure.
@@JayKayKay7 it has been tested, wringing occurs in a complete vacuum (as in, it was tested on a space walk on the ISS) and without oil
The vacuum has negligible effect but the oil shows a huge difference, such that a lab was needed to insure that there was no microscoping amount of oil left that could explain it. With an ethanol-cleaned set and no added oil, i get maybe 300 grams of force keeping my johansson blocks together while with the oil from my hands, the scale i used was maxed out at 100 kg.
Thanks Travis. As always - informative. Any thoughts on an adorable inspection table?
Great knowledge
Would using either gun oil are mineral oil be ok for less expensive Grade B Jo Blocks for us hobbiest? Good explanation of gage blocks. Sine Bar's,,will you do one in the future? Lov the Caliper clock,,,got make one,, too cool (@@)! thx Travis, great info. Bear
Slip gauges for key ways what we use them for
Use a round standard gauge block for a micrometer more accurate
Small correction That's Gauge Blocks not Gage Blocks....you wrote it on your Title
What kind of oil could you use for the connection, WD40?
Anti rust oil
Yes Mitutoyo USA uses WD40 on an ink pad for gauge block wringing.
Metric all the way, it's just simpler. These gauge blocks are a god-send though.
I’m going to shower at 1011 west olive street Oxnard California 2023.
look like chester bennington
my name is hassan ghayas ,i am from pakistan ,sir i need jobs as cnc operator.i have one year exps
ruclips.net/video/gNRnrn5DE58/видео.html. For anyone who wants to geek out on gauge blocks a little bit.
Sure gets time consuming and $$$ when quality is job one. Don't drop them!
Hahahahah gage block. I think you mean a gauge block
Ya, that was confusing.
Went with Gage since that’s what is on Mitutoyo’s website🤔
@@TITANSofCNC a gauge block is a gauge block
www.mitutoyo.co.jp/eng/index.html says gauge.
www.mitutoyo.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/E-section-Gage-Blocks.pdf
@@TITANSofCNC it is odd, that Mitutoyo themselves spell it two different ways, maybe just a language/culture difference between USA and rest of world, since they have a similar catalog with the gauge spelling. Would be interesting to hear Mitutoyo's reasoning for the different spelling. www.mitutoyo.co.jp/eng/support/service/catalog/09/E12014.pdf