Colin, the description says reversible bit. If you reverse the direction of your router it will work much better. One forward and one in reverse. Thats how a reversible bit works in my experience.
I’m newbie when it comes to router but by looking at it i think you can adjust the router bit by aligning the tongues of the first cut and the router bit tongue. If you test it with a long enough wood. Once you line the second cut to router teeths, run the same wood at just the end with teeth and you should end up with tiny teeths with the same sizes. If you think about it. If the teeth size matches squarely to thethe gap size you’d end up with flat surface on the second run. I don’t have a router table as i am a beginner but i could picture how i would do it.
Correct flip over just one piece the bit was designed this way so no adjustment is required, not saying you cannot adjusted it but get it perfect is not easy.
He tried the flip with the Freud bit and still got identical cuts. It may work that way, but the initial depth of the cutter in the table has to be just right, maybe
It looks like flipping it would have worked but it probably would be bit out. Depending on the thickness of your stock compared to the thickness of the fingers you could get a perfect fit by flipping it or it could not work at all.
These joints aren't structural. When I lived in Jefferson, TX there was a "stud" mill there which brought in 2 x 4 's and cut out the knots and other imperfections in the wood, finger cut the ends and glued them together to make studs for walls. They were cut to the correct length for 8 foot ceilings. They were good for end loading but not good for side loading. The glue joints should not be counted on for any structural load other than straight down the board.
He tried flipping it in the first video, the cut came out identical, that's why he did it the way he did here with the plastics, I guess you need to set the initial height just right for it to work but it's not like he didn't thought about flipping it, that's the first thing he did in the first video.
I think he has to lower the bit just "one full tooth" on the second piece, like when using a cross jig. I'm looking at 7:31 to see the bit profile, so set the base of the cutter flush with the table (not the base of the first tooth), it'll leave a bottom whole teeth, then lower the bit "one full tooth" so the base of the first tooth is flush with the table, it'll leave a whole "hole" in the wood... maybe????. Thanks for sharing Colin ;)
Hi Colin. great idea video. Question for you, Would you redo the cuts and maybe adjust the fence for a tighter fit? then in the next video, give it a mention?
Hello WWW. It is the router bit itself that determines the length of the tooth. Not the fence. The small diameter of the router bit must cut the wood to length, otherwise there will be openings in the joint because the tooth is too short. Best regards.
You should've tried doing a finger/miter joint by doing it with the wood at a 45 degree angle. Make a box out of it. Also, try it on floor boards if they create a stronger bond than tongue and groove. Imagine creating a wooden floor that's like made of one whole piece of wood in terms of strength. Lateral finger joints on all floor board edges.
I am a bit confused Colin. Some other finger joint bit videos I have watched have shown that two pieces are cut by turning the second piece over. Look at 'Infinity tools' for what I mean. I am not sure if it relates to the type of bit you use as the Infinity and others are adjustable.
To flip it over you need to ensure that the edge of the tooth is exactly on the centre line. This is easy when it is a square tooth but hard when it is a tapered tooth. Then you need to align exactly half way along the chamfer to get a 'just flip over' setting.
Having watched this video several times I think the reason for the (unacceptable) joint gap is slightly incorrect fence set up. The cutting depth on a thicker piece of timber would be set by the included bit bearing and not by the fence. On thinner timber, as in this case, the workpiece doesn’t contact the bearing so the fence needs to be set to exactly mimic the bearing gap, otherwise it is easy to cut the finger grooves a fraction too deep, or as in this demonstration, a fraction too shallow.
When you talk about cheap router bits please mention router speed. I found out I have a 25,000 RPM router but some bits say 18,000 max... I think cheap yellow bits were on that list.
If you are very skilled and have a lot of experience: Yes. But if you are doing this for the first or second time, I doubt you get really good results even with the more expensive router bit.
@@maplobatsI agree. The demonstration workpiece used was too thin to contact the finger bit's depth control bearing and the fence set up was also slightly off, resulting in a poorly fitting joint. Not really a fair test.
Sorry Colin, it is me again. Make the first cut, then lower the bit until the teeth on the wood and the teeth on the tool "mirror" like EƎ. Then make the cut on the other piece and check. Cheers from Buenos Aires :D
Sounds a little quicker than twiddling with shims, and to my naivety _seems_ would be no less accurate. However with the teeth tooled to a nominal spec, wouldn't the fastest/accurate solution to the line-them-up puzzle involve a vernier micrometer adjustment on height for second cut perfection?
Been searching for this video. Thanks for sharing. Have a question here: I do not have a router table. I have a hand-held router. Can I still use the finger bit, to have precise fits?
I suppose you could raise the cutter a few thousandths of an inch and make a second pass. Interesting to see the difference in these products. Thank you
Always great videos. Thanks for your great, practical advice. You've helped develop my skills as a weekend woodworker and inspired me to try my hand at my own channel. Thanks.
The bit has a bearing at the top. Begs the question:- why don't you lower the bit use it? What you'll find is the "top" cut or finger will be thicker, it is designed this way so that you can sand or plane without exposing the angled parts of the joint.
raise one of the piec should fit tighteres up with a shim and run it again this should take the thickness of the shim off the top inside of the joint i would use a few sheets of paper fo the shim now one side of the joint would be larger should fit tighter
When a bit is called "reversible", doesn't that mean that one of the two pieces gets fed into the bit upside down?.I'm a newbie & not showing us how you lined up the bit height in the very beginning was confusing by not seeing it.
i've tried this router bit to make wider panels . But adjusting height is like pain in the ass :/ i used lifting jack ( so i could do more precision measurement ) it kinda worked but its still difficult
Great video Colin. I like how you didn't trash bit company but let the demo do the talking. That result might be acceptable w/ adjustments. Flipping 2nd. piece? Also, how'd it glue up?
Hi Colin! Thanks for the video! I really need to hone my router table skills and this bit looks pretty cool. Do you know if it is available in a 1/4" shaft, or just 1/2? How much should I expect to pay? Thanks again!!
@@ZrubekFamily i currently have a smaller 1/4" craftsman router but my Uncle said he's going to give me his 1/2" Bosch really soon. I'll have to build a table for that one for sure and then get all new bits lol. I appreciate the feedback Randall.
The way to get rid of the gap you got with that tool is to either regrind it or place it in the circular file and buy a good quality one. The width of the major diameter face should be a couple of thousandths of an inch smaller than the smaller diameter face. Based on the gap I'm seeing in the video, I'd bet that the major diameter face of that tool is ten to twelve thousandths bigger than the minor diameter face.
Nope. Doesn't work that way, except in circumstances in which both pieces of wood are a thickness which is a precise (and fractional) multiple of the offset needed. I'm sure woodworkers would rather determine the thickness of their work, rather than have the thickness dictated by the needs of the tool.
Why ,oh why god , do some people incorrectly pronounce HEIGHT as "HEIGHTH"?. there is NO 'TH' at the end as in length or width. Please people, lets fix this. (Yea, the little things bother me).
Maybe it was spelled wrong to begin wit. The H is there for deptH, widtH, and maybe that last H was on a smoke brake? Who knows? 😇😎😀 Don't let the little things bother ya' too much! Haha!
Colin, the description says reversible bit. If you reverse the direction of your router it will work much better. One forward and one in reverse. Thats how a reversible bit works in my experience.
I’m newbie when it comes to router but by looking at it i think you can adjust the router bit by aligning the tongues of the first cut and the router bit tongue. If you test it with a long enough wood. Once you line the second cut to router teeths, run the same wood at just the end with teeth and you should end up with tiny teeths with the same sizes. If you think about it. If the teeth size matches squarely to thethe gap size you’d end up with flat surface on the second run. I don’t have a router table as i am a beginner but i could picture how i would do it.
I like the idea on 7:00. When you are creative you can make some great stuff with this. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
No adjustment needed you flip the second joint over the hard part is which side you want up. ☺
I was thinking the same thing. Just flip the top over and after routing, just flip it over and the second joint would fit the first.
Correct flip over just one piece the bit was designed this way so no adjustment is required, not saying you cannot adjusted it but get it perfect is not easy.
He tried the flip with the Freud bit and still got identical cuts. It may work that way, but the initial depth of the cutter in the table has to be just right, maybe
It looks like flipping it would have worked but it probably would be bit out. Depending on the thickness of your stock compared to the thickness of the fingers you could get a perfect fit by flipping it or it could not work at all.
@@douglassiemens4245wrong. Quit spreading misinformation
How about turning the wood over ?
In the right place that last joint looks great
Thanks for watching!
These joints aren't structural. When I lived in Jefferson, TX there was a "stud" mill there which brought in 2 x 4 's and cut out the knots and other imperfections in the wood, finger cut the ends and glued them together to make studs for walls. They were cut to the correct length for 8 foot ceilings. They were good for end loading but not good for side loading. The glue joints should not be counted on for any structural load other than straight down the board.
That definitely provides some different possibilities. Thanks Colin!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
God, im screaming at you , flip one piece over will fit perfectly...
Holy shit thank you! How does this dude have a woodworking channel and not see this?
🤣
Actually just flip the bit into the trash instead. I bought one that shipped warped, the second one had a frozen bearing.
He tried flipping it in the first video, the cut came out identical, that's why he did it the way he did here with the plastics, I guess you need to set the initial height just right for it to work but it's not like he didn't thought about flipping it, that's the first thing he did in the first video.
Normies Unite *Freud rep puts finger on lips* “shhhhhhhhh”
I think he has to lower the bit just "one full tooth" on the second piece, like when using a cross jig. I'm looking at 7:31 to see the bit profile, so set the base of the cutter flush with the table (not the base of the first tooth), it'll leave a bottom whole teeth, then lower the bit "one full tooth" so the base of the first tooth is flush with the table, it'll leave a whole "hole" in the wood... maybe????. Thanks for sharing Colin ;)
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I'm curious if you had given those blocks of wood a smack with a mallet it would have brought them together tight, eliminating the small gaps?
it's a very nice decorative idea to join the light and dark wood together .
Thank You!
Hi Colin. great idea video. Question for you, Would you redo the cuts and maybe adjust the fence for a tighter fit? then in the next video, give it a mention?
reason for the gaps may be that the fence isn't quite set far enough back. Did you try that?
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
@@knecht105Hi ! I guess Jim is right. The fence should be aligned with the top bearing and any small deviation will be doubled.
Just saying, but the bottom of each gullet was removing wood.
@@thomasarussellsr Not quite - it isn't cutting away enough so the teeth are a bit too wide to allow it to bed properly.
Hey, so I am wondering if there's not a finger-joint bit that would fit on say a 4 to 6 inch jointer table...?
Hi
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Could you please make a video for working with Lock Miter Router Bits?
Thanks
Can this be done on a plunge router with out the table
Thanks for video instruction work.
Where did you buy this particular router bit?
This might be a good way to add contrasting banding to a table top.
Hello WWW. It is the router bit itself that determines the length of the tooth. Not the fence. The small diameter of the router bit must cut the wood to length, otherwise there will be openings in the joint because the tooth is too short. Best regards.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Can you create finger joints on wider pieces of wood with just that bit, or is it limited by the height of the bit?
You should've tried doing a finger/miter joint by doing it with the wood at a 45 degree angle. Make a box out of it.
Also, try it on floor boards if they create a stronger bond than tongue and groove. Imagine creating a wooden floor that's like made of one whole piece of wood in terms of strength. Lateral finger joints on all floor board edges.
Turn the other side up side down?
I am a bit confused Colin. Some other finger joint bit videos I have watched have shown that two pieces are cut by turning the second piece over. Look at 'Infinity tools' for what I mean. I am not sure if it relates to the type of bit you use as the Infinity and others are adjustable.
To flip it over you need to ensure that the edge of the tooth is exactly on the centre line. This is easy when it is a square tooth but hard when it is a tapered tooth. Then you need to align exactly half way along the chamfer to get a 'just flip over' setting.
Good tip at the end. I didn’t think of that
Are these joints also known as COMB joints?
Having watched this video several times I think the reason for the (unacceptable) joint gap is slightly incorrect fence set up. The cutting depth on a thicker piece of timber would be set by the included bit bearing and not by the fence. On thinner timber, as in this case, the workpiece doesn’t contact the bearing so the fence needs to be set to exactly mimic the bearing gap, otherwise it is easy to cut the finger grooves a fraction too deep, or as in this demonstration, a fraction too shallow.
I going to do 1/0.5 in and 1 feet give me suggestions to get bit. thanks
When you talk about cheap router bits please mention router speed. I found out I have a 25,000 RPM router but some bits say 18,000 max... I think cheap yellow bits were on that list.
Nice video. Wether those bits have a very specific application or they're almost useless.
Hi Colin, Nice comparison. Just goes to prove if you spend money on a really good tool you get really good results. Cheers, Huw
If you are very skilled and have a lot of experience: Yes.
But if you are doing this for the first or second time, I doubt you get really good results even with the more expensive router bit.
Thanks for watching!
You can even get decent results with the cheap bit if you use it correctly.
@@maplobatsI agree. The demonstration workpiece used was too thin to contact the finger bit's depth control bearing and the fence set up was also slightly off, resulting in a poorly fitting joint. Not really a fair test.
Sorry Colin, it is me again. Make the first cut, then lower the bit until the teeth on the wood and the teeth on the tool "mirror" like EƎ. Then make the cut on the other piece and check. Cheers from Buenos Aires :D
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Sounds a little quicker than twiddling with shims, and to my naivety _seems_ would be no less accurate. However with the teeth tooled to a nominal spec, wouldn't the fastest/accurate solution to the line-them-up puzzle involve a vernier micrometer adjustment on height for second cut perfection?
Thank you for sharing Colin . Well explained .
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Been searching for this video. Thanks for sharing.
Have a question here:
I do not have a router table. I have a hand-held router. Can I still use the finger bit, to have precise fits?
what maximum and minimum wood ?
I suppose you could raise the cutter a few thousandths of an inch and make a second pass. Interesting to see the difference in these products. Thank you
Yes, that might correct the issue. Thanks for watching!
Very Cool router bit Sir
Thank You!
Always great videos. Thanks for your great, practical advice. You've helped develop my skills as a weekend woodworker and inspired me to try my hand at my own channel. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for more good tips many of us appreciate it
Thanks for watching!
The bit has a bearing at the top. Begs the question:- why don't you lower the bit use it?
What you'll find is the "top" cut or finger will be thicker, it is designed this way so that you can sand or plane without exposing the angled parts of the joint.
that gap is not corrected if you hit it with a mallet?
That depends on how hard you hit it ;) Thanks for watching!
Colin thanks for another lesson! Bill
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
That last example made your solid wood look like plywood.
Interesting, but I don't think I would be doing that.
Glamping pressure would close that gap.
i like your ideas
raise one of the piec should fit tighteres up with a shim and run it again this should take the thickness of the shim off the top inside of the joint i would use a few sheets of paper fo the shim now one side of the joint would be larger should fit tighter
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
how to carvea dog .
wood crafts
Nice videos. The pre-set teeth would change how far the top 'tooth' would exit, on different thicknesses of wood. Trial runs are essential.
Why didn't you turn one piece over at 2:50 of the video and see how they fit??
Man I have the same exact bit, I cannot get it right for some reason
Thanks a lot for sharing, Coli, I got that same router bit... cheers!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
When a bit is called "reversible", doesn't that mean that one of the two pieces gets fed into the bit upside down?.I'm a newbie & not showing us how you lined up the bit height in the very beginning was confusing by not seeing it.
i've tried this router bit to make wider panels . But adjusting height is like pain in the ass :/ i used lifting jack ( so i could do more precision measurement ) it kinda worked but its still difficult
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
the gap is because the cutter guide bearing should be level with the fence face.
100% this. 👍
Im pretty sure the gap is because your fence was not set back enough to cut all the way into the board
Do i need a big ass machine like yours to put that thing to work?🤔
Im sorry but is there a blondie somewhere in this video,, my god i love your video,s but PLEEEZZEEE, turn one piece over before i die ,....
So, did the gaps disappear when you glued it?
It did help with it, but not completely.
Great video Colin. I like how you didn't trash bit company but let the demo do the talking. That result might be acceptable w/ adjustments. Flipping 2nd. piece? Also, how'd it glue up?
It's not perfect on glue-up, but the joint will definitely hold. Thanks for watching!
The link to the article "Coarse Tooth Finger Joint Bit " doesn't work for me.
It should be working now. Thanks for watching!
Thank's Colin...........
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hi Colin! Thanks for the video! I really need to hone my router table skills and this bit looks pretty cool. Do you know if it is available in a 1/4" shaft, or just 1/2? How much should I expect to pay? Thanks again!!
If you don't have a 1/2" router you really should get one. Much better results. Also a lot more bit opions.
@@ZrubekFamily i currently have a smaller 1/4" craftsman router but my Uncle said he's going to give me his 1/2" Bosch really soon. I'll have to build a table for that one for sure and then get all new bits lol. I appreciate the feedback Randall.
Cheapest one here around 2 bucks
You can get 1/4 version for about $17 amzn.to/2HpxCEH
@@knecht105 thanks!!
Just brilliant Colin,! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🇬🇧🇬🇧👍
Did the gas strut come with your router table or did you fit it. Love your videos
He bought and install it, he made a video about it so you can search for it on his channel.
Nice review there, mate👍
Quite the difference between the two bits, you get what you pay for, I guess.
That experiment looked rather interesting👌
You're welcome, Bill!
The way to get rid of the gap you got with that tool is to either regrind it or place it in the circular file and buy a good quality one. The width of the major diameter face should be a couple of thousandths of an inch smaller than the smaller diameter face. Based on the gap I'm seeing in the video, I'd bet that the major diameter face of that tool is ten to twelve thousandths bigger than the minor diameter face.
JUST FLIP ONE OVER!!!!! (BANGING HEAD!!!)
Inspiration for the non woodworker who needs to make a joint for working not show
Thanks for watching!
You shouldn't have to use plastic. If you set your center line properly.Just rout one and flip the other over.
looks more like a box jointer.
If you had too much time and money you could do inlay baseboards all throughout your house.
Made it look like plywood, lol
I think the easiest way just to flip over one pice and they will be perfectly fit to each other, without any plastic pieces and ajustments😂😂😂✌️
Nope. Doesn't work that way, except in circumstances in which both pieces of wood are a thickness which is a precise (and fractional) multiple of the offset needed. I'm sure woodworkers would rather determine the thickness of their work, rather than have the thickness dictated by the needs of the tool.
Why ,oh why god , do some people incorrectly pronounce HEIGHT as "HEIGHTH"?. there is NO 'TH' at the end as in length or width. Please people, lets fix this.
(Yea, the little things bother me).
Thanks for watching ... I guess?
Maybe it was spelled wrong to begin wit. The H is there for deptH, widtH, and maybe that last H was on a smoke brake? Who knows?
😇😎😀
Don't let the little things bother ya' too much! Haha!
Hy
your a great man but cant you see it ,...
You are doing it wrong.
There's gotta be a way these bits work without using the plastic spacers!!