Why 3D Printing Struggles with Curved Surfaces
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- Опубликовано: 18 июн 2024
- Curved surface finishes on 3D printed parts can often be challenging, especially with the appearance of layer lines as the part moves up the curve. In this video, we explain why these layer lines appear more distinct and guide you through some solutions that will help you improve the appearance of your parts.
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Full Video:
ruclips.net/video/ujAwxSx63FE/видео.htmlsi=HF2mAYt7LmsiZhWc
Do you also print multi material? Would you say it is more expensive to print a small part completely in PA-CF compared to the main body in PA and only ~1/7 in PA-CF?
It's also preferable in 2 materials as I don't need the strength and abrasiveness in the lower part.
At the moment I am handfeeding the filament at a certain point. Got an IDEX printer but the cooling time between nozzle change is not great, I'd rather print the nylon in a continuous way.
It's a valve adapter. Just wondering how you would solve that in production.
ruclips.net/video/XK95hkC95I0/видео.html
I feel like you missed way #2: sanding
Sand it
😊p6
Special technique: Sandpaper
Honestly though, because that would remove any ugly layering. Even printing on the side still has the rigid wall, so sanding it down just seems the most logical.
That's what I'm saying😆
Bondo and sandpaper on top bro☝️
While we both seem to be equally ingenious, i must concede that you are faster. Well done sir.
I've done this on fingerboards (Yes Tech Decks) and it works!
You can also sand it down to get that curve if you have thick enough layers to support doing that.
Our videos deal with specifically mass production 3d printing. Sanding is fine for one-off parts, but sanding 10,000 parts is a lot of sanding.
@@slant3dDepending on how the part is made. If you can strap them together and get a decend finish with an orbital sander, it's rather quick.
@slant3d I'm pretty sure you could come up with an automated way to sand a lot of parts if you mass-produced 3d printed parts. The reason that no one does this is because 3d printing isn't designed for mass production but for prototyping. If you mass produce something you have the money to invest in injection molds.
@@slant3dThere's still layer lines though. At that point, wouldn't you want to just sand a fdm prototype then do injection molding?
That’s a lot of microplastics
Orca Slicer (and by extension Bambu Studio) has a dynamic layer height option for this! No need to do teeny layers the whole way.
Cura has had dynamic layers for years too. Just in case that's your preferred slicer you don't have to switch.
@@extragoodetho you still should check Orca out and maybe switch anyways😅
Ya but I always just hold it down and sand down my mouse, cuz I want that shit smooth ...is that the same tool? The little lines?
Isn't orca slicer and banbu slicer all based on prusa slicer?
@@AckzaTV Orca is based on Bambu Studio which is based on prusaSlicer and slic3r. The people working on Orca seem to be quite fast at implementing new features and picking the best from other slicers.
There is also non planar printing. The top of the curve can be printed as a curved surface giving the same quality as printing it in its side.
Just waiting for the slicing software to make this easy!
@@AustinDungan not just software, also hardware. Ideally, the nozzle can rotate around to do perfect non-planar moves.
Sounds extremely expensive for not a lot of benefit
@@tongpoo8985 you dont need to pay anything if you have a 3d printer
@@Darenz-cg9zgnot just the the nozzle. Part should be able to move too.
Another option that avoids most of the ugliness, which is the inconsistency of having exposed diagonal fill, is to increase the number of outlines around solid fill so that the exposed part just looks like more perimeters.
Or use concentric top layers :)
@@riba2233 That's an option too but I find it's ugly on actually flat tops, accentuates accidental geometry.
@@daliasprints9798 ah ok, makes sense :)
Sandpaper: Am I joke to you?
@@willynilly18films zzz
Printing it on its side is a great solution for this issue, but also has the side effect of showing the seam for fully cylindrical parts. I’m looking forward to the new developments that further help to eliminate seam issues for cylindrical parts
Scarf seam solves that
Also random seam positioning and fuzzy skin give a more uniform appearance.
@@fbombtehgr3at I haven't tried the fuzzy skin option yet, looking forward to it and thanks for reminding me!
@@brandonfarmer4323 well, we are already there, seams are not really an issue since many years now (with correct settings). :)
Reminds me of the "vector vs raster scan" arcade monitor wars of the 80's.
I'm not sure wym but you reminded me of the raster v. vector dilemma in web design
@@pythondrink You aren't far off, actually. Back in the day, virtually all monitors and TVs worked by shooting a beam of electrons line by line down the screen, producing a colorful image, but limited by big blocky images and low resolution. Someone had an idea to just use the electron beam to draw the graphics themselves on the monitor, giving you an image with smooth lines on every side, but was limited by draw time, with virtually every game limited to only drawing the outlines of graphics and characters.
The most famous games that used the technique are Astroids and Tempest. Sadly the trend didn't last long as resolutions for games scaled up quickly, but some games still emulate the style for nostalgia, Vid-ribbon coming to mind.
Ty for actually pointing out that you don't have to force the device to do what it isn't good at
Or just sand it to smoothness.
Catefully, of course. Don't want to damage your beautiful creations.
Something to invent: GCODE controlled heat plate to smooth out those edges
non-planar 3d printing is something people are working on to accomplish that, though there are still problems with it, particularly with clearances of the nozzle and the speed of the z-axis
They already have that it's a plugin called "electric blanket" it's on github, but only works in an old version of cura. I made that all up
@@linkeroniwThat's why you want a hexa (6 axis variant delta with each arm independent).
probably easier and more precise just use a regular mill attachment to smooth out the surface. With heat plate you got lot less precise heat projection, and might lead to key dimension sway. But g code wise, it's the same
@@keenheat3335That only allows for exterior surfaces to be corrected, the main benefits of additive manufacturing are that you can control the parameters of every surface of the part.
At my old school, in a computer lab, there was a 3D printer and I was intrigued. They were trying to 3D print a perched Eagle with its wings spread out, but they’ve been only making spaghetti results for some reason, I figured that something was wrong but through years of occasional seeing 3D print videos, I realized that they could’ve built it in separate pieces if it was that tedious.
Integral Calculus IRL
you could also use variable layer height
My go to solution: sand paper.
Watching this without even having a 3D printer
Flatland: a circle has angled edges that are too small to perceive
I don't even own a 3D Printer and I'm invested in these videos
Me trying to print a sphere: 👍
Can't believe Pat Cummins is 3D printing 😂😂
I recognized 'print it on its side' right away.
Came here to say this!!! 😂
This actually seems really helpful as someone who wants to make figures of my favorite video game characters when I get a 3D printer (Seriously I can't believe that Reject won't give us Dialovers figures, they're really going to force me to make a figure of Kino instead of letting me give them my money)
Besterer solution is to make it 1/8th thicker and have a master craftsman shave the 1/8th down so it's perfectly smooth. Trust me, someone out there is really that skilled
I think that math is called "Inverse square law"... The curvature by radius by rise or drop by distance by distance.. it is complicated math, at first, but once it clicks in the mind, is is actually then really simple to dictate and predict in designing a part or drawing .
No. Just no.
*cackles in resin printing*
Stairway to waterbear heaven.
I cannot tell you how useful this could be in a classroom to teach Calculus.
I genuinely thought I was trippin when my guy snapped into existence
You could also just sand the curved surface with sandpaper too
I can't believe he made this video about this issue and didn't even mention adaptive layers.
I thought this was tuna in the thumbnail
That's a pretty ingenious solution. My thoughts were to sand it smooth, but that's pretty awesome.
This music is makin my sleeper agent wake up
I've seen people even out layers with sandpaper too.
Today I learned about physical pixels
When I was a kid playing Nintendo and super Nintendo, I always wondered how it would look if the pixels were arranged diagonally, rather than straight horizontal and vertical.
Something that I heard helping with masking layer lines is to reheat the plastic after printing with a heat gun to partially melt the plastic and then smooth the lines over. Doing this can also increase the durability of the structure as well making it less likely to separate.
Great videos man. Appreciate it
Helped me a lot
Keep it up
Dude, my dad is a 3D print guy, and he is insane about it.
Or you can use VLH or Variable Layer Height, which automatically decreases layer height where details are needed (in this case, at the top)
as a not owner of 3d printer, i found this useful
For larger scale commercial smoothing of layer lines, you can use vacuum chambers or otherwise sealed chambers where a chemical solvent is introduced as an aerosol or gas to gently dissolve (smooth) the outer layer(s). Can be done in small home applications or larger commercial runs but there are always multiple solutions to a problem, just depends on how you or your business is already structured or equipped.
But that doesn't work on every type of filament, the only ones I have heard of that do it well are abs and polysmooth pla
@@linkeroniwPolysmooth is NOT PLA, it's PVB. You can also get it (much cheaper) from various Chinese filament companies like YOUSU.
@@daliasprints9798 my bad, but it has been a while since I heard anything on it and the name is pretty close to pla
What about rotating the printing plate, so it never creates a shallow print surface? Is there an continuous hot plate attachment for dynamic printing surface?
Remember. Circle is made out of infinite amount of points stacked together. Its pretty much perfectly visible here. Those spaces can be bigger or smaller
There is also the option of dynamic layer thickness, so you get the best of both worlds
I havent heard this song in YEARS omg this took me back
That "adaptive layer" feature on Cura Can also help with this type of print when you have no choice
The thumbnail looks like a premium slice of raw salmon
the Fusin clip at the end gave me nightmares lmao
There is a way of putty-modelling that works very similar like 3D printing, but by hand and manual labor. Much more work, but no problems with layer lines.
You can also melt it down alittle and smooth it out with some sandpaper
The teleportation intro is new to me.
Also finishing the surface helps! plan it slightly bigger than you need it then take away for a smooth finish if you have 100% infill on the outside surfaces
Adaptive layer heights is certainly worth mentioning here
And if you went down to .1pm it would be even smoother. One thing a lot of people forget from math is that every line has an ‘infinite’ number of points. The more points we measure the smoother the line becomes. The current problem with 3D printing isn’t us humans but the limits of the machine.
3D Printing is a hobby, for the average user this wouldn't matter much, most will be happy that their prints actually come out.
If you want a quality finish you're going to have to work for it, this has always been the way with 3D Printing at least with FDM printers.
How to print a smooth dome upwards: just dont! Wow thanks thats great. You could have at least suggested adaptive layer height. Its great to workaround but you didnt answer your own question
Best solution is to light it afterwards to melt the outer layer smooth
I love layer lines the feel nice to touch when my mom prints things nice texture
Why does it look satisfyingly scratchable 😩
Actually did an analysis of this 3DP artifact effects on early drag crisis onset for bluff cylinders in college. Depending on operating speeds, layer height and angle at which the cylinder is printed could be optimized to decrease overall air resistance.
People before sandpaper was invented:
Perfect to defend yourself against the secret service
It’s the same with most CNC parts. The coding isn’t for creating a radius, it’s for creating microns of edges that form a curve.
My immediate thought: sand that sucker with sand paper or a sanding belt.
If u print with Bambulab P1S, u can reduce the layer hight to a minimum of 0,08mm if u want smth in a really good shape.
I just used sandpaper. I forgot the grain, but I make a VR gunstock to aim, and the grips where rough and rigid so I just sandpapered them and now I can hold them alright
Josh just lying on the ground at the end
I was originally thinking about making the parts a little bit thicker then we sand it down but I never actually thought about printing it on it’s side. I’ll try it out(once I get a 3D printer)
bro comes out of nowhere
Your printer is tuned well. I need to learn how to print that good of quality
you could use a heat gun to slightly melt the layer lines too
They invented this magical new tool called sandpaper.
The very first solution is polish. I was gonna say sanding but idk how 3D printing would take to that. The point is you can smooth it out somehow after printing, and that should be the finishing step
I love the poor layer stacking right as you say "more consistent surface finish". 😂 If your printers have Z wobble or extruder hob eccentricity like that, you need to print diagonal to hide it.
You can put weathered copper above and under copper and itll go faster, you can fill a whole chunk and even automate it. Xisuma showed a farm in his latest upload :)
I hide this problem by either adding textures like bumps or wrapping the print in string
I was not expecting the video to be about 3D printing. The thumbnail looked like sushi 🍣 😂😂😂
sandpaper: why hello there
Thanks for arriving at the logical conclusion that curved surfaces should be printed on it's side. I was Yelling for the Whole Length of the short until the conclusion 😂
Bro just spawned in 💀
Thanks I really needed someone to explain this to me.
A great way to visualize calculus
Sandpaper. It exists, and makes most 3D prints much better
Did anyone else get thrown off by that intro, dude just popped into existence so fast and randomly that was funny
The overall best solution is simply melt and form it to a flat curve
You could cover your prints in Resin to make it very smooth.
I saw some people use heat to melt the plastic a bit so it smooths out, dunno if that's something that works better or looks better than sanding but food for thought ig
Definitely subscribing! Im taking engineering electives in highschool and we use Fusion 360 and this channel seems good!!
Welcome. Thank you
that's like tryna make a circle in minecraft
That's due to interpolation in cartesian system, you could try cylindrical coordinate system to get a more aesthetic finish.
Rotating the object during printing, similar to a cnc machine, fixes that problem.
"curves make my 3d printer act up"
Printing on the side creates better bonding between layer.Surface can sand off.
Some sneaky calculus got into this 3d printing lesson
Trying to make a circular build in Minecraft be like:
Adaptive layer height helps too
that beginning reminds me of library of ruina's snap (angela teleporting)
I know this is probably not what you're supposed to do but with parts like that i just sand them slightly on a fine grit belt sander