Hand Tool Live: Shortcuts with Hand Tools
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Working entirely by hand affords us some unique situations where we can take shortcuts and actually work faster than you might think. On this episode I'm going to discuss some of my favorites.
Flattening a board with a saw
Lay out from the shoulders
Match planing
Knife Lines as a starting point
Slaving Joinery to tooling
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I know it is an old video but I still have to thank you for opening my eyes!
00:07 intro
04:00 flattening a board with a saw
16:40 layout from the shoulders
24:25 slaving joinery to tooling
31:20 match planing
50:00 knife lines as starting point
1:01:22 additional questions
Thank you for sharing!
The "suction" effect you talked about when parts nearly "stick" together, or the plane iron on a water stone...... in metal working this is known as "wringing" the parts together :) If stacking gauge blocks together to make up the height on something like a Sine bar to find an accurate angle, the gauge blocks are "wrung" together to make sure there is no error in the stack height :)
A Sine bar is a fixed length "bar" with 2 dowels attached underneath, one dowel acts as a pivot and the other dowel is what blocks are stacked under. Stacking blocks under one side gives us a right angled triangle, and we can use trigonometry using the stack height and the length of the Sine bar (center to center of the dowels) to figure out the angle...... Soh Cah Toa that we learned in school :)
Great show! Really enjoyed it.
Take a shot for every time Shannon says “it’s flat”. Lol. Great pro tips Shannon
Great answer to he chop saw question
Your jointing method is absolutely cool, I have to adopt this :)
However, one question: doesn't your statement "plane the jointed boards together as one bigger board" somehow counteracts your previos tip of "plane with the saw to remove less material"? If both boards to be jointed are cupped, you might end up in an even more cupped wider board, won't you?
you have to use your judgement based on how cupped the boards are. You can always take a heavily set plane to the cupped face and remove just the flanking high spots so that when you mate the boards together they sit flatter to one another. Wood is organic and every piece is different so EVERY technique used to work it should be free of absolutes and be examined on a case by case basis.
These seem like excellent tips, well explained and really nice delivery. Thank you from UK
you made a lot of good points
Very useful tips! :-) Liked it very much! :-D
Great video. I tried edge planing on 6 foot boards for a dining table but ended up with a large gap in the center. The more I planed the worse it got. That was before watching this video. I'm thinking the staggered method you've shown here would have revealed that I was creating a hollow in the center and needed to take a lot off the ends. Or am I totally mistaken and I did something else totally wrong?
The extra glue surface you get from mach-planing at an angle is not really significant IMO. At 10 degrees off square you get only 1.5% more surface, and even at 20 degrees you still only get 6,4%. (formula is (1/cos(angle)-1)*100%). Nice method for knowing that you're done. My method has been simply planing til I think I am done, then plane some more xD.
no not significant but its just a byproduct of this technique as the offset is more to ensure a good joint.
What brand of hand plane do you recomen?
A sharp one. I've used many different brands and the sharp ones are always the best.