Wow, I adore this. I appreciate the attention to detail that went into making this dress! I recently started sewing, and I am mostly interested in sewing vintage and historical clothing. Your videos are fascinating and I am looking forward to more! They inspire me even more to begin creating my own historical costumes. What advice would you have for a beginner venturing into the world of historical costuming?
WOW! Thank you so so so much for your reply. This was so encouraging to read and absolutely what I needed to hear! I will definitely heed your advice, and I'm going to head to the university library today (as well as research some books online) and read up on things! I also need to brush up on my hand-sewing techniques. You are so kind, I can't wait to get involved in the community and hopefully start my own RUclips channel!
@@bernadettebanner you are an absolute saint for sharing this information. I've been hand sewing (I'm terrified of machines) for maybe 10 years, but it's always been small things, but I've always been fascinated with historical clothing. So maybe this can help me begin a journey of my own. Thank you.
Sydney Suzanne, you should check this beauty out!....www.ebay.ca/itm/BUTTERICK-4571-Misses-Fit-Flared-Medieval-Dress-COSTUME-PATTERN-UNCUT/202901705663?hash=item2f3de253bf:m:mQyJvoS2I79R8cC5HEffLCQ
It is often very enlightening to see someone actually making something. The practicality of different techniques is best understood by the dressmaker herself and practicality is an important consideration in studying mediaeval fabrication.
Remember: your reference is a painter's interpretation of a gown. In flesh-and-blood fabric it may have been impractical or crazy to make it like that. Your version is beautiful.
When even in fashion we can tell old things are made to last while present stuff are made to break easier so people can make more money from returning customers.
Whenever my clothes break easy I never buy from that brand again, I hope other people have this sense, as I do not want to have to take up sewing jeans
The industrial revolution paved the way for manufactured fabrics and clothes. When resources, including fabric, are more expensive because they're made of all natural materials (silk, cotton, wool/fleece, etc.) that have to be painstakingly harvested, sorted, spun into thread, dyed at some point from pigments made out of more natural materials, then woven into fabric, it's going to cost a much prettier penny for any yardage at all. People also used to wear more layers of under garments due to living during a mini ice age, only source of warmth indoors were fire places with theoretically less effective means to insulate the homes to keep the heat in.
I'm an engineer with zero interest in clothesmaking, yet I watched these videos all the way through. Guess its just the appeal of watching and listening to all the intricacies of the craft.
When my mom’s cousin married an engineer and he saw her sewing he went out and bought himself a sewing machine because what he saw was taking different parts and putting them together. I think it was so cute that they became sewing buddies in the 60s man🥰
This is really beautiful!! Stunningly finished. A couple of things I've learnt from my own research: the main body of the gown is likely to of been lined as well, especially in England as this added warmth and would of combatted your raw edges on the neck line. Just having a quick look at the painting my guess would of been the gold around the neck was a metallic price of tablet weaving ( the pattern seams reminiscent) often you find this was simply stitched straight onto the outer facing side of the garment. Another really interesting point is the raw edges themselves, whilst thin fabrics like the silk were almost definitely felled in someway there is evidence that edges of heavier fabrics like wool were rubbed with bee's wax and left raw, they held without freying due to their close weave and the added binding of the wax. As you said at the beginning of the video this period is so hard to to get good research for as so little evidence remains. Stunning work!! You should have a research into the colour used to dye the wool the red you used it was called Scarlet and was incredibly expensive, it was only used on the highest quality fabrics, there was actually a type of wool that was such high quality it was almost exclusively dyed this red, it even became known as Scarlet Wool or even simply Scarlet. It was almost exclusively produced my the monks of Tintern Abby in Wales. The Mediaeval Tailor is another great book if your looking to plan patterns it gives you a lot of basics to start from to then expand and create your own stuff. This has got me all excited I'm off to my sewing room now.xx
On attaching the buttons. The only thing I would have changed is instead of poking one hole, I would have poked two. One a few threads away from the next. Split the button tails into 2 groups (one group to be threaded through each hole). Then tie the knot on the inside like you showed in the video. Tying the button tails around fibers of the sleeve, the knots cannot pop through the hole... It's the common problem found when sewing French knots. If after tying your French knot you place the needle in exactly the same hole the knot may pop through, however, if you go down a thread or two over, the knot cannot ever pop through and you have a lovely embroidery. ❤🌅🌵
God, I love everything about this. Your sewing looks like a performance. When I sew I do it on my messy floor, at three in the morning, hunched over and snarling like a gremlin.
I'm a cosplayer and my stuff is definitely not historically accurate, but I've learned so much from people who do historical reproductions of gowns. I've just fallen in love with your channel, and I love how much detail you put in your descriptions. Astounding job on this dress!
Maybe like me she feels this gal talks exceedingly fast. Not good for someone who's trying to instruct an interested viewer. Very frustrating to follow...
I recently found your channel and I'm feeling SO inspired to start sewing again. I moved 2 years ago from Poland to UK, but without my sewing machine, and I haven't bought a new one here (yet?). In summer I decided I'll try hand sewing a blouse. But I was so scared of the idea, that I haven't gone past buying the fabric and making the pattern ready... Now seeing you bring this majestic dress to life using only hand sewing techniques makes me think that a blouse is actually doable :) I also love the way you explain the hand sewing techniques you use (not only in this video). I feel empowered to move on with my project. Thank you for the inspiration :)
There are very few videos that I'm tempted to give a standing ovation when I finish them because they were so well done, this was one of them lol. That gown was EVERYTHING.
As a girl who goes out in costumes, corsets, cloaks, and tiaras all the time, most people (at least where I live) happen to think that maybe there is an event and when I say no this is just my usual outfit, they are impressed and express admiration. I'd like to think that most people would love to dress experimentally but either dont have the resources or guts to do it, and decide it's better to simply conform. TLDR Do what you want and ignore all the ignorant masses that say you cannot.
I wear leather patchwork platform gogo boots and vintage 60s/70s clothing daily. My haircut and everyday makeup isn't trendy but it suits me and my style. Fuck em. Do what you want.
I completely understand why you’re so hard on yourself with the fractional details. But... darling! Whoa! I think it’s beautiful! We are always hard on ourselves. Yet these fractions of minute details that are not up to your standards makes you even better the next time you cast your craft. Excellent piece. Oh I absolutely love this!
The end result was absolutely beautiful. I love to watch a skilled person making something lovely, whether it's a hand made cabinet or a 15th Century dress. Great job.
Very interesting! I really enjoy that you do so much hand stitching. I was taught to always hand stitch hems... So I do in honor of my mother and grandmother. My grandmother was a seamstress and sewed her own clothes. She could see anything. I wish my elders were still alive because now I would truly appreciate them. In my youth, I was far too distracted with things outside my family. Sigh. But I do enjoy your historical garment construction videos. Thank you!!
My eyes have welled up seeing the finished article on you, I almost can't believe what I have just watched! I am inspired and speechless. I want to save your tutorial forever, at least until I can afford the space and fabric to sew a dress for myself. I was mesmerised throughout, good show!!
I learned to hand stitch bottom holes in school in the early 1990s here in Denmark - it was kinda fun. We have this subject I guess you can translate to "hand crafting" where we learn to sew and work with fabrics.
Bernadette Banner I can’t wait for your new videos your one of the best costume designer on RUclips you explain everything so clearly and it’s so easy to follow along with, also I was thinking along the lines of 18th century working class gown they look very simple and elegant and I’d love to see how you would make one 💙💜💙
In the meantime, Crow’s Eye Productions is a great RUclips channel to scratch your historical costuming itch: they have a whole series of videos that’s just about people getting dressed in the morning. They have a good range of historical eras and social classes (I think over half of their videos feature working-class characters)
You mentioned both 19th century (1801~1900, so Regency and Victorian) and 18th century (1701~1800, so Georgian and, depending on some definitions, early Regency), and I don’t know which time period you’re actually interested in. Luckily, Crow’s Eye has videos about the morning routines of working women in BOTH eras. There are two videos of a Georgian/18th century working woman getting dressed, with additional videos going into more detail about period-specific items like busks and detachable pockets. Their “Dickensian Christmas” video features the morning routine of a Victorian-era maid... the heartwarming ending is a bonus.
Your long delicate fingers are mesmerizing to watch as you sew your seams with perfect tiny stitches. You are so fun to watch and so entertaining to listen to. I started sewing at a very young age and learned on my grandmother’s old treadle Singer sewing machine. I loved making clothes for my Barbie doll (the original one with the ponytail and black and white chevron bathing suit)...made all my own patterns. She was my tiny mannequin. Now I am almost 70 years old and still love to sew and collect fabric and antique buttons.You are so accomplished for your young age...and so knowledgeable and so adorable. I am so happy I found your channel.🧵💞
Other than the amazing attention to detail, I’d have to say my favorite thing about this dress is the sleeve lining. The color reminds me of fall colored oak leaves. Absolutely stunning.
You, our dear sewing friend, should be in movies. You are so lovely and your creations lovely as well. So very beautiful your dress is. Thanks for sharing.
Delightful. I have zero special abilities, but love fabric accessories & do hickies. Someday I might have enough brain bandwidth to sew... until then, I an the official ironing gal at my elder Aunties Quilt Club. They adopted me, and I watch them spin fabric & tread beads & wire, wood & ....(cool-whip, eek) into beautiful masterpieces...(except the cool-whip...its irredeemable.) Well done joyful funny lady. Your skill & delight in the process shine through!!!
My knees and back ache every time I see you cutting out a garment...Oh, the joy of youth!...lol Absolutely love your work and conviction to keeping things done in the time period. Keep up the good work and know that I'll be here watching and enjoying.
Your attention to detail is astounding and you do a wonderful job of communicating your research and techniques, kudos! I especially love the drama of the sleeves with that gorgeous peach silk lining contrasting the olive-y green under sleeve. Have you ever considered doing something like the Arnolfini Portrait gown? Talk about incredibly dramatic sleeves! Though, I certainly wouldn't fault you for taking shortcuts on the amount of fur and fabric Haha
In case you didn't see it, there is a BBC series called 'A Stitch in Time' in which they recreated that gown. It should be on You Tube if you search for it. The show was hosted by Amber Butchart. The whole series is worth a watch actually.
@@bernadettebanner If you go to the "Stitch in Time" series on RUclips, there's a British team that recreates the gown. It's completely lined in fur! Wish there were lots more episodes, but they recreate a variety of clothes from different paintings.
her voice is one of the most pleasant and soothing sounds on this planet and I would love to have a conversation with her in person!! She is a delicate but FIERCE Queen!
Wow! You are amazing! I have no intention of doing historical sewing, but find the history you share so interesting and fascinating. I’ve subscribed so I can learn more from you. Thanks for sharing your amazing talent and knowledge.
My late mother was an expert needlewoman who designed & executed beautiful handmade buttonwholes, embroidered details, & English smocking. This video reminds me of my childhood & inspirations. Cheers from a fellow designer!
That last pic was amazing! Was really interesting to finally watch this! I previously watched you and your sister recreate a painting... that was great too!
You know, once belted, it doesn’t seem to matter much that you interpreted the dress to be single long gored pieces without a waist seam, in my opinion. You have opened the gores at the waist wide enough to give the impression of much more fullness that then seems to become naturally gathered somewhat by the belt, without the added bulk a gathered waist seam would have created (right where you would NOT have wanted bulk, as you mentioned in your summer dress video). Then the belt may not have lain flat over the waist seam where the skirt had been gathered/pleated anyway! I think you were ultimately wiser to have omitted any bodice to skirt seams in this dress, because the finished product looks magnificent and a perfect interpretation of the gown in the painting! I know this video is an older one but I love everything you put up. You are such an inspiration in your dedication to accuracy and authenticity, to other historical researchers and historical clothing experimentalists like myself!
I've started out with hand sewing and always loved the craftsmanship of period pieces since sewing machines weren't as modern as in the olden days. I'm very motivated now to take up hand sewing again.
Wow, this dress looks beautiful when worn! 💚💛💜 I'm not even into that style, those colours or that period but seeing it modelled I'm like 'Daaamn... I want that dress!' Excellent work once again, Lady Bernadette of York! 💚💛💜
I have been watching your videos religiously (they kind have become as part of my self-care routine) and I wanted to tell you that you have motivated me to sew and create clothing again and I would like to deeply thank you for that. You are a very positive influence for the RUclips family and I am very glad I discovered you and I hope you keep doing what you love to do and have a wonderful, happy and full live. (Also, I will start creating more "historically"-influenced clothing ;))
Goodness I love your videos! As a non-sewer (well, I can make a mediocre circle skirt!), much of this is gibberish to my ears, but it is beautiful gibberish! On average, how many hours does a project like this take you?
this entire video is all the parts of dressmaking that i hate doing but that actually make the garment complete- i actually got a shiver when i realized that you were going to hand stitch the buttonholes on the sleeves....
Thank you for your videos. Seriously. They are so soothing. I just went through a major panic attack and your video managed to calm me down. So please keep them comming
This is such a lovely dress, it looks great on you ! For the green sleeves maybe if you had cut them on the biais of the fabric you would have been able to have more fitted sleeves like you wanted (the biais of the fabric is basically the spandex of historical garments ;) ). Also your recreation from a painting made me think about that mini series I watched a few months ago it's called "a stitch in time" it was originally made for the bbc but I was able to find it on RUclips. There are 6 episodes and in each one they recreate a garment from a painting using historical methods, I thought that is something you could like if you haven't watched it already. Have a nice day !
Wonderful vid,the dress was beautifully made & finished ! Ppl that don't sew have zero clue how truly laborious a process making clothes,(esp elaborate historical ones !)fully sewn by hand is. On the buttons,a cpl great resources for metal buttons,besides eBay/test,ect, are Military & Native American trader supply companies.( I esp love Russian/French/Chinese/Japanese historical ones,they KNOW & LOVE their opulence,even in something as small as a button,lol)They'll often have wonderful,hand hammered ones,in many designs...but they also sell beautifully cut,finished hammered edged ones w/centers blank..allowing you to customise them using metal/hardwood stamps:) I loved when you were making the over-sleeves that you made,in your words, "a wee sample piece" pattern for them,as I have always done that when creating historical pieces,before making full size Brown paper & muslin ones. I have 3(+) dolls I use,depending on costume,one is traditional barbie(plus a Barbie w/her boobs flattened,lol),then 2 from my childhood I believe aren't sold anymore. Francine,who is built w/more normal proportions..Madge,an older woman doll,w/normal,but more stocky build & Midge,what I use for kids/preteen pieces.A few weeks ago I decided to fully catalogue,photo,all my patterns,by era,sex,type/(& time of day,peasant/merchant/nobility,ect,an immense undertaking !What cracked me up when seeing your mini sleeve pattern is it reminding me that when all patterns were laid& piled up,I had this huge pile of mini pieces too...I never realised how many I truly had done before this,I had over 200 sleeve patterns alone ! I could put out a comprehensive book of historical doll-clothes patterns,hehe. *snicker*
They probably had some form of powdered pigment that they could have rubbed on with the pointed bit of a flat piece bone or wood to mark the pattern. They also could’ve used bits of charcoal, from the hearth, sharpened to a point. Or soft limestone? I mean, silk back then was far too expensive to potentially ruin with ink stains, so they MUST have had some form of dry markings.
Gorgeous dress! You can certainly understand why clothing was so expensive in period and why they had so few items overall. Kudos for all the beautiful handwork! Tablet weaving is wonderful and so much fun!
"wathever sorcery was applied to achieve those perfectly smooth sleeves and bodice" --> maybe it's only this perfect in the painting, the old times photoshop x) But seriously, your work is amazing !!! I just discovered your channel but I am eager to discover all its content !
May I ask.. what do you do with all those scraps? I love your hand sewing skills... one day I hope to be able to make period clothing myself. Thanks for the videos..!! You are very talented :)
@@bernadettebanner , Since you do such beautiful work,hopefully you keep a large binder,that contains full info on ea piece you've make.That,along w/pattern info,early sketches to the finished pic,also has fabric/trim/thread swatches in it,(or larger,if fabric has designs,embroidery) of ea material used for the garment. Mine also has where ea fabric was bought/price paid,(dye lot#'s if possible)That way,even if you don't have the dress,10 years later you can look up exactly which fabrics you used & w/current pricing,what it would cost to reproduce. I also add notes,in my immense "Fabric Bible"*snicker* which contains EVERYTHING,lol; pics of fabric in different lights,(also wet & dry) which weights it comes in,actual weight per yd(esp imp if using heavy wools/brocade & wearer only weighs 90 lbs ! Hehe), ease of use during creation,skin feel,dye-ability,opaqueness,if it bleeds,if it's a fray nightmare, durability...even sound !(esp for stage/filmwork pieces). I also keep a large bag where I throw any scraps that are about palm- sized, into. I have some great fabric punches (w/pinking edges)in a ton of shapes & use these scraps to make gorgeous, kaleidoscopic trims. I esp love these for whimsical hanging sleeve edges,hunting-hat scarf throws,fairy-wear& boot-toppers or when making one of my signature, layered Waterfall capes.Working on one now that'll probably end up having over 30,000 leaves on it,all made from scraps . On custom orders I also make a small pkg for them that contains about a 1/6th yd of fabric&some smaller fabric pieces,so if they rip or tear a hole,(& it's not worth the $ & postage to return to me to fix)they have the actual fabric used to make patches from. Customers have told me they also love this,as many have used the small ydage & scraps to later on make matching accessories :) What is a fabric recycler ? I've never heard of one.Besides cleaning out your workspace & keeping it out of land fills,do you get anything from it ? Cash per pound..or discount coupons for fabric houses,ect ?Do you know what they do with it...what kind of fabrics or other things are made from the scraps & if we,the public can get access to it ? It'd be great to add more recycled items in my workshop(that I'm not doing myself,like making rag rugs,doll clothes,quilt squares,paper made from fabrics,ect,)like using recycled poly-fleeces made from plastic bottles( though one has to check now if it IS a recycled product,since unlike when introduced,only hf produced now,if that, is from recycled materials :(
I know this is an old video, but I do tablet weaving and am about to do my first brocade band with silver thread. If you are ever interested in having a belt made for this dress I would be more than happy to do that for you.
I love your attention to detail. The look of a culture, region and time can be very specific right down to the stitches, materials, colors and even accessories. I really love the fasteners and girdle. I've been looking for a girdle like that for a 15th century Ottoman ensemble but cannot find one that is just right.
One thing I thought of, is that the painter was male, and I'm not sure how much he care he would have put into the dress of the girl. Its possible he combined images in his heads of different dresses that had slightly different designs.
Well the gowns were important. Since have always been part of status of the rich. So accurately painting these beautiful, expensive gowns, was really necesarry. Moreso than faces of babies. (Look at it. Its creepy af. Like small demon adults) You don't see every detail. Yes. Because things are hidden. You don't see everything. Because you just don't see it. It wouldn't be in a picture either. Background or others painted without her Standing there. Hell yeah. Maybe even a maid/model standing there in the gown. Or similar gown for an underpainting of the dress. But that's less likely. Dresses were very important for your status
Male or not, those painters' attention to detail was an essential part of their craft, so I doubt it. It's probably just a pattern that's been more or less lost to history.
I've never stitched anything more than a pair of socks I loved and refused to part with and I have to say your attention to detail and the way you describe the process are absolutely astounding. I am in love with the end result!
I’d wear this dress if the country where I live isn’t: *super hot outside 95% of the time. *plagued with Corona. *a society that would at times,make fun or mock something that’s different.
Thank you for filming, editing, and posting this! Watching this was like a fun sew-with-me activity, as I finish handsewing the last few eyelet holes for an early 15th century gown :)
That is SO beautiful, but to me the hand sewing seems like a nightmare. I can´t do a ten cm of a straight stich, I can´t imagine doing like hundreds of meters.
No one, not even Ms. Banner, has ever been born knowing how to sew by hand. If you were to work up to it, and practice, you could probably accomplish beautiful hand sewing. It's all about putting your mind to learning how rsther than imagining failure - a difficult task, to be sure.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, I adore this. I appreciate the attention to detail that went into making this dress! I recently started sewing, and I am mostly interested in sewing vintage and historical clothing. Your videos are fascinating and I am looking forward to more! They inspire me even more to begin creating my own historical costumes. What advice would you have for a beginner venturing into the world of historical costuming?
WOW! Thank you so so so much for your reply. This was so encouraging to read and absolutely what I needed to hear! I will definitely heed your advice, and I'm going to head to the university library today (as well as research some books online) and read up on things! I also need to brush up on my hand-sewing techniques. You are so kind, I can't wait to get involved in the community and hopefully start my own RUclips channel!
@@bernadettebanner you are an absolute saint for sharing this information. I've been hand sewing (I'm terrified of machines) for maybe 10 years, but it's always been small things, but I've always been fascinated with historical clothing. So maybe this can help me begin a journey of my own. Thank you.
@@chaos-sy1kq same
Sydney Suzanne, you should check this beauty out!....www.ebay.ca/itm/BUTTERICK-4571-Misses-Fit-Flared-Medieval-Dress-COSTUME-PATTERN-UNCUT/202901705663?hash=item2f3de253bf:m:mQyJvoS2I79R8cC5HEffLCQ
Elleon Payne what was the information???
Maybe the "sorcery" for the smooth sleeves and bodice was simply a case of artistic freedom by the painter?
Or the model gaining a bit of arm bulk? :P
MsBlulucky ye :D olden days’ photoshop...
Photoshop was used in the old days too, huh? 😂
It might even be that the painter didn't actually know all that much about female garments or fashion.
or maybe it's because she didn't have the proper undergarments to achieve the silhuette
“Because I’m a heathen” 😂
I know, I heard it, laughed out loud and said to myself "Oh yes, I really like this woman"!
Kenedeigh Bara can’t imagine this girl really fr being a savage
as you do
10:16
As a medieval historian and university lecturer I found this fascinating!
It is often very enlightening to see someone actually making something. The practicality of different techniques is best understood by the dressmaker herself and practicality is an important consideration in studying mediaeval fabrication.
Gill Gallagher no, you’re not. Your videos suggest otherwise.
Huh? How would you know what his job is
@@AshDraws that might just be their kid? A child couldn't write this comment lmao
•Ash Draws• the liked videos suggest it may be true..
Remember: your reference is a painter's interpretation of a gown. In flesh-and-blood fabric it may have been impractical or crazy to make it like that. Your version is beautiful.
When even in fashion we can tell old things are made to last while present stuff are made to break easier so people can make more money from returning customers.
Capitalism
fast fashion
Whenever my clothes break easy I never buy from that brand again, I hope other people have this sense, as I do not want to have to take up sewing jeans
The industrial revolution paved the way for manufactured fabrics and clothes.
When resources, including fabric, are more expensive because they're made of all natural materials (silk, cotton, wool/fleece, etc.) that have to be painstakingly harvested, sorted, spun into thread, dyed at some point from pigments made out of more natural materials, then woven into fabric, it's going to cost a much prettier penny for any yardage at all. People also used to wear more layers of under garments due to living during a mini ice age, only source of warmth indoors were fire places with theoretically less effective means to insulate the homes to keep the heat in.
@@AllThePeppermint that is quite a lot of historical accuracy right there.
I'm an engineer with zero interest in clothesmaking, yet I watched these videos all the way through. Guess its just the appeal of watching and listening to all the intricacies of the craft.
it is it's own kind of engineering/construction.
and yes, it can be fun to listen to other crafts, even if they aren't your own!
Right? My wheelhouse is electrical, but anyone with knowledge, passion, and technical can be fascinating to watch. Bernadette is a treasure
Haha, I'm an engineer too and I don't know why I am mesmerized by her videos, I think I'm old soul.
And maybe you are.
When my mom’s cousin married an engineer and he saw her sewing he went out and bought himself a sewing machine because what he saw was taking different parts and putting them together. I think it was so cute that they became sewing buddies in the 60s man🥰
@peacelovechocolate horticulturist here, still, awesome entertaining video 🤔😂
This is really beautiful!! Stunningly finished. A couple of things I've learnt from my own research: the main body of the gown is likely to of been lined as well, especially in England as this added warmth and would of combatted your raw edges on the neck line. Just having a quick look at the painting my guess would of been the gold around the neck was a metallic price of tablet weaving ( the pattern seams reminiscent) often you find this was simply stitched straight onto the outer facing side of the garment. Another really interesting point is the raw edges themselves, whilst thin fabrics like the silk were almost definitely felled in someway there is evidence that edges of heavier fabrics like wool were rubbed with bee's wax and left raw, they held without freying due to their close weave and the added binding of the wax.
As you said at the beginning of the video this period is so hard to to get good research for as so little evidence remains. Stunning work!!
You should have a research into the colour used to dye the wool the red you used it was called Scarlet and was incredibly expensive, it was only used on the highest quality fabrics, there was actually a type of wool that was such high quality it was almost exclusively dyed this red, it even became known as Scarlet Wool or even simply Scarlet. It was almost exclusively produced my the monks of Tintern Abby in Wales. The Mediaeval Tailor is another great book if your looking to plan patterns it gives you a lot of basics to start from to then expand and create your own stuff. This has got me all excited I'm off to my sewing room now.xx
Hey Kai, you got there before I did. Nicely explained. (Alison B. from 1471 and White co.)
Scarlet from kermes (an insect) _was_ expensive- but red was a hugely popular colour because the English had madder & alkanet plants for red dye
On attaching the buttons. The only thing I would have changed is instead of poking one hole, I would have poked two. One a few threads away from the next. Split the button tails into 2 groups (one group to be threaded through each hole). Then tie the knot on the inside like you showed in the video. Tying the button tails around fibers of the sleeve, the knots cannot pop through the hole... It's the common problem found when sewing French knots. If after tying your French knot you place the needle in exactly the same hole the knot may pop through, however, if you go down a thread or two over, the knot cannot ever pop through and you have a lovely embroidery. ❤🌅🌵
YOU LOOK LIKE A PAINTING WITH THIS DRESS I AM SCREAMING! ❤️❤️❤️
This should be on PBS
Good idea.
This is the highest compliment imaginable
God, I love everything about this. Your sewing looks like a performance. When I sew I do it on my messy floor, at three in the morning, hunched over and snarling like a gremlin.
I'm a cosplayer and my stuff is definitely not historically accurate, but I've learned so much from people who do historical reproductions of gowns. I've just fallen in love with your channel, and I love how much detail you put in your descriptions. Astounding job on this dress!
My Art History professor would love this and you. She's an expert on Medieval architecture and Medieval clothing/fashion.
"Because I'm a heathen"... you, my dear, are fantastic
*when you took fashion design for a semester but you still have no idea what she's talking about*
...yes.
"She knows not what the curse may be; Therefore she weaveth steadily, Therefore no other care hath she, The Lady of Shalott. "
Every time you say "gore triangle" I imagine a triangle full of blood
Saw you in this awesome dress at Costume College! Didn't realise you were a fellow RUclipsr!
Who are these MONSTERS down voting this video?
Fancy seeing you here 😂.
Love your channel btw! Keep on spreading truth.
If you as a watcher want to add interaction "credit" to a video *but* don't want to get suggestions for similar videos down voting achieves this
Chinese sweatshop owners
@@luckystar9279 The exact ones who later steal the photos of this very dress and sell the (poorly made) copy as their own.
Maybe like me she feels this gal talks exceedingly fast. Not good for someone who's trying to instruct an interested viewer. Very frustrating to follow...
I recently found your channel and I'm feeling SO inspired to start sewing again. I moved 2 years ago from Poland to UK, but without my sewing machine, and I haven't bought a new one here (yet?). In summer I decided I'll try hand sewing a blouse. But I was so scared of the idea, that I haven't gone past buying the fabric and making the pattern ready... Now seeing you bring this majestic dress to life using only hand sewing techniques makes me think that a blouse is actually doable :)
I also love the way you explain the hand sewing techniques you use (not only in this video). I feel empowered to move on with my project. Thank you for the inspiration :)
check Angela Clayton channel too you will love her she is an Angel just like this girl
There are very few videos that I'm tempted to give a standing ovation when I finish them because they were so well done, this was one of them lol. That gown was EVERYTHING.
I wish it was socially acceptable to wear that dress casually 😭
Life it short, do it anyways. Wear it out for errands and be the baddest bitch at the grocery store 😂
As a girl who goes out in costumes, corsets, cloaks, and tiaras all the time, most people (at least where I live) happen to think that maybe there is an event and when I say no this is just my usual outfit, they are impressed and express admiration. I'd like to think that most people would love to dress experimentally but either dont have the resources or guts to do it, and decide it's better to simply conform.
TLDR Do what you want and ignore all the ignorant masses that say you cannot.
fuck society on this and wear whatever u want!!
I wear leather patchwork platform gogo boots and vintage 60s/70s clothing daily. My haircut and everyday makeup isn't trendy but it suits me and my style. Fuck em. Do what you want.
Hannah Tucker I would wear it. It’s beautiful.
I completely understand why you’re so hard on yourself with the fractional details. But... darling! Whoa! I think it’s beautiful! We are always hard on ourselves. Yet these fractions of minute details that are not up to your standards makes you even better the next time you cast your craft. Excellent piece. Oh I absolutely love this!
The end result was absolutely beautiful. I love to watch a skilled person making something lovely, whether it's a hand made cabinet or a 15th Century dress.
Great job.
Very interesting! I really enjoy that you do so much hand stitching. I was taught to always hand stitch hems... So I do in honor of my mother and grandmother. My grandmother was a seamstress and sewed her own clothes. She could see anything. I wish my elders were still alive because now I would truly appreciate them. In my youth, I was far too distracted with things outside my family. Sigh.
But I do enjoy your historical garment construction videos. Thank you!!
My eyes have welled up seeing the finished article on you, I almost can't believe what I have just watched! I am inspired and speechless. I want to save your tutorial forever, at least until I can afford the space and fabric to sew a dress for myself. I was mesmerised throughout, good show!!
I learned to hand stitch bottom holes in school in the early 1990s here in Denmark - it was kinda fun.
We have this subject I guess you can translate to "hand crafting" where we learn to sew and work with fabrics.
Hey would you be able to make a Victorian dress of a working woman ?
Bernadette Banner I can’t wait for your new videos your one of the best costume designer on RUclips you explain everything so clearly and it’s so easy to follow along with, also I was thinking along the lines of 18th century working class gown they look very simple and elegant and I’d love to see how you would make one 💙💜💙
In the meantime, Crow’s Eye Productions is a great RUclips channel to scratch your historical costuming itch: they have a whole series of videos that’s just about people getting dressed in the morning. They have a good range of historical eras and social classes (I think over half of their videos feature working-class characters)
You mentioned both 19th century (1801~1900, so Regency and Victorian) and 18th century (1701~1800, so Georgian and, depending on some definitions, early Regency), and I don’t know which time period you’re actually interested in. Luckily, Crow’s Eye has videos about the morning routines of working women in BOTH eras. There are two videos of a Georgian/18th century working woman getting dressed, with additional videos going into more detail about period-specific items like busks and detachable pockets. Their “Dickensian Christmas” video features the morning routine of a Victorian-era maid... the heartwarming ending is a bonus.
@@Corbeaux08 the Georgian era lasts from 1714-1837 not 1701-1800 I just thought I would point that out.
Your long delicate fingers are mesmerizing to watch as you sew your seams with perfect tiny stitches. You are so fun to watch and so entertaining to listen to. I started sewing at a very young age and learned on my grandmother’s old treadle Singer sewing machine. I loved making clothes for my Barbie doll (the original one with the ponytail and black and white chevron bathing suit)...made all my own patterns. She was my tiny mannequin. Now I am almost 70 years old and still love to sew and collect fabric and antique buttons.You are so accomplished for your young age...and so knowledgeable and so adorable. I am so happy I found your channel.🧵💞
Other than the amazing attention to detail, I’d have to say my favorite thing about this dress is the sleeve lining. The color reminds me of fall colored oak leaves. Absolutely stunning.
You, our dear sewing friend, should be in movies. You are so lovely and your creations lovely as well. So very beautiful your dress is. Thanks for sharing.
I love how you explain things. It's great and you speak so clearly
Delightful. I have zero special abilities, but love fabric accessories & do hickies.
Someday I might have enough brain bandwidth to sew... until then, I an the official ironing gal at my elder Aunties Quilt Club. They adopted me, and I watch them spin fabric & tread beads & wire, wood & ....(cool-whip, eek) into beautiful masterpieces...(except the cool-whip...its irredeemable.)
Well done joyful funny lady. Your skill & delight in the process shine through!!!
I've liked this before even playing it. I know it will be extraordinary.
It's so nice to find so many young women excelling in this field. Even knitting and tatting is getting a comeback!
My knees and back ache every time I see you cutting out a garment...Oh, the joy of youth!...lol Absolutely love your work and conviction to keeping things done in the time period. Keep up the good work and know that I'll be here watching and enjoying.
I was mesmerized. Seriously, every few minutes I had to remember to close my mouth again. Lovely finished product! Your in-depth research paid off.
Your attention to detail is astounding and you do a wonderful job of communicating your research and techniques, kudos! I especially love the drama of the sleeves with that gorgeous peach silk lining contrasting the olive-y green under sleeve. Have you ever considered doing something like the Arnolfini Portrait gown? Talk about incredibly dramatic sleeves! Though, I certainly wouldn't fault you for taking shortcuts on the amount of fur and fabric Haha
In case you didn't see it, there is a BBC series called 'A Stitch in Time' in which they recreated that gown. It should be on You Tube if you search for it. The show was hosted by Amber Butchart. The whole series is worth a watch actually.
@@bernadettebanner If you go to the "Stitch in Time" series on RUclips, there's a British team that recreates the gown. It's completely lined in fur! Wish there were lots more episodes, but they recreate a variety of clothes from different paintings.
her voice is one of the most pleasant and soothing sounds on this planet and I would love to have a conversation with her in person!!
She is a delicate but FIERCE Queen!
Wow! You are amazing! I have no intention of doing historical sewing, but find the history you share so interesting and fascinating. I’ve subscribed so I can learn more from you. Thanks for sharing your amazing talent and knowledge.
You’re a wizard Bernadette. I am inspired by your work and skill daily. Thank you for existing x
OHHHHH! The history nerd in me loves this so much!!!
My late mother was an expert needlewoman who designed & executed beautiful handmade buttonwholes, embroidered details, & English smocking. This video reminds me of my childhood & inspirations. Cheers from a fellow designer!
That last pic was amazing!
Was really interesting to finally watch this! I previously watched you and your sister recreate a painting... that was great too!
You know, once belted, it doesn’t seem to matter much that you interpreted the dress to be single long gored pieces without a waist seam, in my opinion. You have opened the gores at the waist wide enough to give the impression of much more fullness that then seems to become naturally gathered somewhat by the belt, without the added bulk a gathered waist seam would have created (right where you would NOT have wanted bulk, as you mentioned in your summer dress video). Then the belt may not have lain flat over the waist seam where the skirt had been gathered/pleated anyway! I think you were ultimately wiser to have omitted any bodice to skirt seams in this dress, because the finished product looks magnificent and a perfect interpretation of the gown in the painting!
I know this video is an older one but I love everything you put up. You are such an inspiration in your dedication to accuracy and authenticity, to other historical researchers and historical clothing experimentalists like myself!
Me: why is YT's algorithm recommending videos about sewing? I know nuts about it.
Me 10 minutes later: subscribed!
The patience you have to hand sew like this is incredible! The dress looks very close for sure, beautiful!
There's a Brazilian cloth designer that uses similar methods for making clothes patterns, his name is Jum Nakao
His work is amazing
I've started out with hand sewing and always loved the craftsmanship of period pieces since sewing machines weren't as modern as in the olden days. I'm very motivated now to take up hand sewing again.
Wow. I'm in awe of your skills. The gown is beautiful and you look beautiful in it.
Wow, this dress looks beautiful when worn! 💚💛💜
I'm not even into that style, those colours or that period but seeing it modelled I'm like 'Daaamn... I want that dress!'
Excellent work once again, Lady Bernadette of York!
💚💛💜
This is one of my favorites!
I have been watching your videos religiously (they kind have become as part of my self-care routine) and I wanted to tell you that you have motivated me to sew and create clothing again and I would like to deeply thank you for that.
You are a very positive influence for the RUclips family and I am very glad I discovered you and I hope you keep doing what you love to do and have a wonderful, happy and full live.
(Also, I will start creating more "historically"-influenced clothing ;))
"Generally just screaming about the wonders of historical dress." I've never related to something more in my entire life lol.
May you be blessed with the gift of tapestry. Lovely dressing malady.
Wonderful! It's gorgeous! Brings the painting to life! Great job! I too used the mini paper model technique on my medieval bell sleeve adventures ;)
Your attention to historical accuracy with accessible materials in this modern day is most commendable. I love watching your recreations!
So tierd of victorian this is as refreshing as it is lovely🌞❤
she’s! just! so darn! cute! and passionate!
Goodness I love your videos! As a non-sewer (well, I can make a mediocre circle skirt!), much of this is gibberish to my ears, but it is beautiful gibberish! On average, how many hours does a project like this take you?
She might have mentioned that it took her a month.
In a more recent video i believe she said “more than 250 hours”, though i could be wrong. It definitely took her a long time, though!
this entire video is all the parts of dressmaking that i hate doing but that actually make the garment complete- i actually got a shiver when i realized that you were going to hand stitch the buttonholes on the sleeves....
You are so talented. I love your presentation
"Because I'm a Heathen!" Haha! Too good! Thanks for the eyelet lesson. Love your talent!
The end result is amazing! Brava!!
I love this video series but I enjoy your new videos more. They are warmer and seem cozy. But I’d watch anything you put out!
It's sooo so beautiful, thank you for sharing your amazing project!!
Thank you for your videos. Seriously. They are so soothing. I just went through a major panic attack and your video managed to calm me down. So please keep them comming
I discovered her recently and I've been going through watching them just now!! So amazing!!
All I can say is, "I want one." I always have, but now more than ever
Not only are you beautiful you are talented as well. Your gown is exquisite.Your directions are easy to follow. Keep up the great content.
This is such a lovely dress, it looks great on you ! For the green sleeves maybe if you had cut them on the biais of the fabric you would have been able to have more fitted sleeves like you wanted (the biais of the fabric is basically the spandex of historical garments ;) ). Also your recreation from a painting made me think about that mini series I watched a few months ago it's called "a stitch in time" it was originally made for the bbc but I was able to find it on RUclips. There are 6 episodes and in each one they recreate a garment from a painting using historical methods, I thought that is something you could like if you haven't watched it already. Have a nice day !
I cannot explain how impressed I am at your talent
“Geometrically challenged” is now my new favorite phrase.
Wonderful vid,the dress was beautifully made & finished ! Ppl that don't sew have zero clue how truly laborious a process making clothes,(esp elaborate historical ones !)fully sewn by hand is.
On the buttons,a cpl great resources for metal buttons,besides eBay/test,ect, are Military & Native American trader supply companies.( I esp love Russian/French/Chinese/Japanese historical ones,they KNOW & LOVE their opulence,even in something as small as a button,lol)They'll often have wonderful,hand hammered ones,in many designs...but they also sell beautifully cut,finished hammered edged ones w/centers blank..allowing you to customise them using metal/hardwood stamps:)
I loved when you were making the over-sleeves that you made,in your words, "a wee sample piece" pattern for them,as I have always done that when creating historical pieces,before making full size Brown paper & muslin ones. I have 3(+) dolls I use,depending on costume,one is traditional barbie(plus a Barbie w/her boobs flattened,lol),then 2 from my childhood I believe aren't sold anymore. Francine,who is built w/more normal proportions..Madge,an older woman doll,w/normal,but more stocky build & Midge,what I use for kids/preteen pieces.A few weeks ago I decided to fully catalogue,photo,all my patterns,by era,sex,type/(& time of day,peasant/merchant/nobility,ect,an immense undertaking !What cracked me up when seeing your mini sleeve pattern is it reminding me that when all patterns were laid& piled up,I had this huge pile of mini pieces too...I never realised how many I truly had done before this,I had over 200 sleeve patterns alone ! I could put out a comprehensive book of historical doll-clothes patterns,hehe.
*snicker*
They probably had some form of powdered pigment that they could have rubbed on with the pointed bit of a flat piece bone or wood to mark the pattern. They also could’ve used bits of charcoal, from the hearth, sharpened to a point. Or soft limestone? I mean, silk back then was far too expensive to potentially ruin with ink stains, so they MUST have had some form of dry markings.
What you do is amazing, and so are you.
I’m so glad there are people like you in the world.
Wow that's amazing and love your channel xxx
So satisfying watching you cut into those luxurious fabrics
Do you have a tutorial on the hair? I’d love to see one.
Gorgeous dress! You can certainly understand why clothing was so expensive in period and why they had so few items overall. Kudos for all the beautiful handwork!
Tablet weaving is wonderful and so much fun!
"wathever sorcery was applied to achieve those perfectly smooth sleeves and bodice" --> maybe it's only this perfect in the painting, the old times photoshop x)
But seriously, your work is amazing !!! I just discovered your channel but I am eager to discover all its content !
Love the hand embroidered button holes and your beautiful front closure clasps! The whole dress looks stunning on you.
"Because Im a heathen" is my new favorite excuse
You are literally such a badass! Please never stop making videos and being you Bernadette!
May I ask.. what do you do with all those scraps? I love your hand sewing skills... one day I hope to be able to make period clothing myself. Thanks for the videos..!! You are very talented :)
@@bernadettebanner , Since you do such beautiful work,hopefully you keep a large binder,that contains full info on ea piece you've make.That,along w/pattern info,early sketches to the finished pic,also has fabric/trim/thread swatches in it,(or larger,if fabric has designs,embroidery) of ea material used for the garment. Mine also has where ea fabric was bought/price paid,(dye lot#'s if possible)That way,even if you don't have the dress,10 years later you can look up exactly which fabrics you used & w/current pricing,what it would cost to reproduce.
I also add notes,in my immense "Fabric Bible"*snicker* which contains EVERYTHING,lol; pics of fabric in different lights,(also wet & dry) which weights it comes in,actual weight per yd(esp imp if using heavy wools/brocade & wearer only weighs 90 lbs ! Hehe), ease of use during creation,skin feel,dye-ability,opaqueness,if it bleeds,if it's a fray nightmare, durability...even sound !(esp for stage/filmwork pieces).
I also keep a large bag where I throw any scraps that are about palm- sized, into. I have some great fabric punches (w/pinking edges)in a ton of shapes & use these scraps to make gorgeous, kaleidoscopic trims. I esp love these for whimsical hanging sleeve edges,hunting-hat scarf throws,fairy-wear& boot-toppers or when making one of my signature, layered Waterfall capes.Working on one now that'll probably end up having over 30,000 leaves on it,all made from scraps .
On custom orders I also make a small pkg for them that contains about a 1/6th yd of fabric&some smaller fabric pieces,so if they rip or tear a hole,(& it's not worth the $ & postage to return to me to fix)they have the actual fabric used to make patches from.
Customers have told me they also love this,as many have used the small ydage & scraps to later on make matching accessories :)
What is a fabric recycler ? I've never heard of one.Besides cleaning out your workspace & keeping it out of land fills,do you get anything from it ? Cash per pound..or discount coupons for fabric houses,ect ?Do you know what they do with it...what kind of fabrics or other things are made from the scraps & if we,the public can get access to it ? It'd be great to add more recycled items in my workshop(that I'm not doing myself,like making rag rugs,doll clothes,quilt squares,paper made from fabrics,ect,)like using recycled poly-fleeces made from plastic bottles( though one has to check now if it IS a recycled product,since unlike when introduced,only hf produced now,if that, is from recycled materials :(
for smaller pieces, they can also do second duty as stuffing for stuffed animals if you don't have a textile recycling place nearby.
So beautiful and created in red wool fabric, well done Bernadette Banner.
I know this is an old video, but I do tablet weaving and am about to do my first brocade band with silver thread. If you are ever interested in having a belt made for this dress I would be more than happy to do that for you.
I can’t believe you are doing all of this sewing by hand, this is incredible!
How long does it take you to make these dresses? Stunning!
I love your attention to detail. The look of a culture, region and time can be very specific right down to the stitches, materials, colors and even accessories. I really love the fasteners and girdle. I've been looking for a girdle like that for a 15th century Ottoman ensemble but cannot find one that is just right.
One thing I thought of, is that the painter was male, and I'm not sure how much he care he would have put into the dress of the girl. Its possible he combined images in his heads of different dresses that had slightly different designs.
Well the gowns were important. Since have always been part of status of the rich. So accurately painting these beautiful, expensive gowns, was really necesarry. Moreso than faces of babies. (Look at it. Its creepy af. Like small demon adults)
You don't see every detail. Yes. Because things are hidden. You don't see everything. Because you just don't see it. It wouldn't be in a picture either.
Background or others painted without her Standing there. Hell yeah.
Maybe even a maid/model standing there in the gown. Or similar gown for an underpainting of the dress. But that's less likely.
Dresses were very important for your status
Male or not, those painters' attention to detail was an essential part of their craft, so I doubt it. It's probably just a pattern that's been more or less lost to history.
I've never stitched anything more than a pair of socks I loved and refused to part with and I have to say your attention to detail and the way you describe the process are absolutely astounding. I am in love with the end result!
I’d wear this dress if the country where I live isn’t:
*super hot outside 95% of the time.
*plagued with Corona.
*a society that would at times,make fun or mock something that’s different.
Same
It’s bizarre how much I love these videos!
Me: Why am I watching this? I don't even know how to sew?
Also me: watches another video
Thank you for filming, editing, and posting this! Watching this was like a fun sew-with-me activity, as I finish handsewing the last few eyelet holes for an early 15th century gown :)
That is SO beautiful, but to me the hand sewing seems like a nightmare. I can´t do a ten cm of a straight stich, I can´t imagine doing like hundreds of meters.
No one, not even Ms. Banner, has ever been born knowing how to sew by hand. If you were to work up to it, and practice, you could probably accomplish beautiful hand sewing. It's all about putting your mind to learning how rsther than imagining failure - a difficult task, to be sure.
Truly a deity. Bless up ya regal queen!
"because I'm a hethen" 😂
You're so slim and graceful.... I love this channel!!