After watching the Ekopel video and yours, I feel confident in my ability to tackle this project and can't wait to turn my tan tub into a glossy white stunner! My kit arrives this week. Thank you!
I finally did it, and was a lot easier than I expected. If you follow the directions, no shortcuts, you should get great results! Hand stir, no mixer. Why? When you use the drill mixer, you aerate the product. Surface preparation is the key. You’ve got to use the cleaner he suggests. I used hydrochloric acid. I wish I knew how to attach a pix of my shower! My shower wasn’t level, I used it to create a level setting, since it flows with gravity. Doing this, I let it dry for 4 days, because it was thick on one side. I will use the product again.
Thanks for this updated How-To with the latest techniques. Have watched the older 4-step video series and another update from late 2019, but this one covers the tools and steps for the kit I have.
I’ll start by saying that I was extremely excited to try your product. We are doing a complete high end bathroom renovation and my wife convinced me to try and resurface our existing tub. We replaced everything down to the studs except for bath tub. My wife had an emotional attachment because she gave birth to our youngest in the tub. This was 18 years ago. I know… I wanted to toss it and replace it. BUT being the good guy I am I promised to do everything possible to resurrect it. I researched and researched and found your product. Read lots of reviews and watched all of the instructional videos. So me and the wife rolled up the sleeves and away we went. We were excited at first but as I stirred the product together I noticed it seemed much thicker than the product in the videos. We stirred fir 10 minutes, let sit to activate for another 10 and then stirred for 1. The product was so thick that it didn’t run well. It also seemed like there wasn’t enough. The result were noticeable thin areas in the tub and didn’t have enough for the front. So we tried to roll on as much as we could and it resulted in runs along the front with very thin areas. We worked within the 60 minutes and timed everything. Against my better judgment we now ordered another batch from Amazon to arrive tomorrow. I’m hoping that a second layer will clean up the imperfections. So another $200 + tax spent on this old tub. I noticed the product I just ordered looks slightly different than the first product I received from Amazon. I think I received an older variation of the product. Is it possible that it was passed an expiration date? Anyhow wish me luck. If the second batch covers the imperfections from the first run I’ll recommend your product. However, if this doesn’t do it I’ll repost and let everyone know. Including tax I’m now $450 invested in this old tub. Wish me luck. I really want this product to work for my wife. For those looking to order this product from Amazon… make sure you get the newest variation of the product. I have a feeling I got a bad/expired batch.
Ok I think I figured out what went wrong. I looked at the box my product came in which says for shower pan . ???? So I went back on Amazon and looked at my order history. The seller was refinished bath solutions but fulfilled my Amazon. The product I ordered says Ekopel 2K Bathtub Refinishing Kit. To make things even more strange if I select “Buy it Again” on my Amazon Account History it takes me to a kit that says “Ekopel 2K Sink Teginushing Kit”. I have no idea how it advertised “Bathtub Kit”, I received a “Shower Pan Kit”, and reordering shows it as a “Sink Refunushing Kit”. I’m assuming that a bathtub requires more product than a sink. Is it exactly the product makeup?? I really hope this didn’t mess up the finish on the tub. I thought I had made an error or received faulty product. As it turns out I received the wrong item. I guess that is why the new bathtub kit I ordered tonight looks different. I’m calling Amazon tomorrow. If someone from refinished bath solutions sees this post in the next 12 hours please let me know if this has messed up my tub and if putting the correct product overtop of it will fix the problem. Im upset with Amazon fulfillment. I shouldn’t being paying for getting shipped the wrong item. I’m guessing this is why there wasn’t enough coverage for my entire tub? A lesson to those ordering from Amazon. Make sure you received the correct kit before applying it.
Ok one last follow up and review, I resolved my issue with Amazon. They offered a refund but the damage was already done. Due to me overworking the product the first time around and trying to make half the volume cover an entire tub caused my problem. So there are blemishes that could have otherwise been avoided. For a final review. The product is a good product. It does what it says it will do if you follow the instructions. Our exterior tub bed is curved. Not flat, with lots of ridges. This caused an issue because the product dripped off of high points/ridges and didn’t flow down the entire surface. This caused a lot of dripping and I would have to go back over too many times past its working time. So I wasn’t happy with the exterior finish on my tub. The exterior of our tub wasn’t bad before I began. Had I known this to be an issue ahead of time, I would have taped off the paper at the first top ridge. But the colour may not have matched either. So just be aware if your tub face isn’t completely flat. The rest of the tub finished up great. One thing I’d suggest.., I covered the floor vent next to our tub because any extra air movement would blow dust or any non-visible hair onto the surface.
I see that you also carry a touch up bathtub kit. I have a little wear around the tub drain area. I would love to see a video in the future on how to just do a touch on the tub as opposed to a how tub refinish.
So it came out good! But you can tell an amateur did it because I have some ripples only on the outside. I also have some pooling because the roller that came with it, (I didn’t follow your advice to make sure it worked first, which it did but not when I was using it on the ekopel) so I suggest the old method, a lot easier to move product around with a flat edge. All in all I wish I had this guy here to do it for me since he makes it look so easy.... but since I don’t, my okayish results will have to do... better than before that’s for sure
I did the project in about 2.5 hours. Pretty easy. Looks great. I need a little clean up at the base as the product leaked under my tape. Hopefully it will scrape off the tile
@@RefinishedBathSolutions so I forgot to remove the tape over the drain and now the finish has hardened and while it looks beautiful, I have to be able to get that out. Does acetone work once it’s hardened or am I going to need a chisel? This is a bad problem.
I watched the video and wow it came out great now I’m a union electrician so I’m good with hands and that looked to easy to be true lol, I am really interested in product So anyone use this and is it that easy, any info would be appreciated!!!
My tub was apparently resurfaced years ago, and now it is peeling off. Also, there is rust on the bottom of the tub. Should I strip the whole thing before using this product?
It does not need to be completely removed however it does need to be sanded smooth so there no chipping or peeling. The rust should be sanded off smooth as well, you are welcome to use a paint stripper to make the process easier however just ensure that it is fully rinsed off and cleaned with what we now recommend soft scrub and completely dried before going ahead and applying ekopel. If you have any more questions you can feel free to give us a call.
Thank you for commenting! Yes, etching is necessary. With recent updates, we now recommend using "Soft Scrub" for better etching results. If you have any other questions or need any guidance please feel free to call us at 877-882-2278!
Incredible product and so happy it was developed. How long has this been known to last? Has anyone needed to resurface a sink or tub after applying this?
Hi there! We do have a non-slip kit available on our website and Amazon. Here is the link to our website: refinishedbathsolutions.com/collections/all-products/products/ekopel-2k-non-slip-floor-coating
I followed the process but part of the bathtub has lost the glaze and a scar is created which is sticky though the tub was used after 72 hours. Any thoughts and recommendation?
Thank you for commenting. Yes, I would recommend our bathtub with surround roll-on kit. This gives enough material to cover 100 square feet with 2 coats.
hi i have a question i am restoring my bathroom back to its original and the original tub was pink but was replaced before me now a off white but everything else is original pink is there a way to tint this to make my tub the correct original color?
36 hours is gonna be tough can I put a small heater in the bathroom to speed the process? The tubs been done before and it looks like ....well the best way to describe it is like the beginning of an avalanche where a huge slab slips down a mountain. The epoxy looks like that . Like a fissure a long "crack" in the finish then the slide. I'm assuming that's from lack of prep but my two boys stomp through the house it's a 100 yr old farm cracker style house . With them bouncing through the house like that could that be an issue? I'm not talking Richter scale bumps but kids ya know? Thanks for any input you can offer
Rinse off the lysol completely after letting it sit / scrubbing it on the surface for 10-15 minutes. After rinsing it completely off make sure the surface is completely dry before going ahead and applying.
I used the Ekopel three days ago and the bath tub came out beautiful. Can I use whats left over in the can on another tub after its been sitting for a few days?
No, Unforchunetly once the Part B (the hardner) is mixed in then you only have about an hour to work with it. After that is becomes too difficult to work with. If you were to go back to the can the next day it would be like cement and there is no way to resoft and reuse.
The coating can last for 15-20 years or more if all recommendations for applying the material are followed in conjunction with proper and careful maintenance.
I just got my Ekopel kit and had a couple of questions before I get started: I noticed you use standard beige masking tape. I have the scotch blue painter tape. Will that works as well or do you recommend the beige tape? Also what do you recommend for cleaning drips that get on the floor, etc,? Thanks.
Any painters tape will work fine. If you get any ekopel on the floor you can clean it with acetone or nail polish remover. We recommend to clean the tub with scrubbing bubble or tilex after you've recasted. Don't use bleach or anything too abrasive. We recommend for prep work to clean with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it.
About a year after using ekopel refinish, a light brown streak has emerged down the middle of the tub.. any suggestions on how to cover or remove this streak?
Have you determined whether it is on top of the surface or is the surface? Could it be rust from your water? Maybe it would come off with CLR, for example? I’m still considering Ekopel.
@@tennnis498 In fact it was a (Lysol) disinfectant spray I had used for a couple months. It coated the surface.. and then slowly streamed toward the drain when wet from use of the shower. But a residue would build up on the floor of the tub, in a streaming fashion. I eventually figured it out and began to only used bleach based cleaner.. then over several cleanings.. it was gone.
@@tennnis498 very well! It's been about a year now. The Ekopel brought the tub up to looking new.. and that hasn't changed. And I'm happy that the brown streak was not from Ekopel!
Hey there! Thanks for watching our video. Just to clarify, we are actually Ekopel, the makers of the product. It sounds like you might have seen a different video on the European RUclips channel that covers some different details. Our European branch manages that channel, so there could be variations in content. If you have any questions specific to our video or need further clarification, feel free to ask! We're here to help. 😊
I am restoring a 1929 cast iron porcelain Double drain single bowl farm sink and it has a large rust spot in the bottom of the bowl . Will this cover the rust spot after being sanded and cleaned ? Also will it level out to be an even look ?
Can peel up what you can or any loose bits then sand the rest smooth. As long as it's smooth to the touch it won't mirror the affected area. Can fill any cracks, chips, holes, dents, uneven areas with car bondo then sand smooth and etch.
When placing heavy objects, such as pots and pans or silverware into a reglazed sink, exercise caution to prevent potential damages. While damages are unlikely to occur, its best to handle heavier objects with care. Let us know if you have any other questions!
I used Rustoleum Tub and Tile refinishing kit on my tub about 3 years ago. Our ceramic soap dish is in the wall a few inches above the tub edge surface and constantly drips soapy water on the tub when we shower. I cleaned the tub well before I applied the product but the finish started to peel where it runs down the side of the tub after the first couple of years. If I recast the tub with Ekopel will I have to worry about this happening again?
Does anyone know if there are any UV inhibitors mixed into the product to prevent eventual yellowing? Are there “freshness dates” for the individual chemicals? Commercial epoxy usually has a manufacturing date for the components printed on the container. I have used other brands of specialized epoxy paint and had paint failures due to extended UV exposure (outdoor sun for 12 months) on automobile wheels. I have also had UV yellowing occur on commercial epoxy floors due to high output fluorescent lamp fixtures (indoors). Yes, you CAN have UV damage indoors (especially here in FLA).
Our material does have a unique formula that prevents yellowing, especially from UV rays. There are not any expiration or "freshness dates" however we recommend a 2 year shelf life due to external temperature variations and so on. We are not the same as any previous materials you have mentioned you used. Many of our professional installers are located in Florida, one in particular specialized in repairing high end yachts. He has no problem with yellowing to date. Reach out if you have any other questions! 877-882-2278
yes sanding and etching are a must! I would recommend sanding the whole thing with 220-320 then use Lysol power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it.
If you don't heat the room to at least 72 degrees it won't properly self level and spread. Also if its too cold it will have a difficult time drying in some cases it won't dry at all.
My drain dam broke and the material went down my drain. Advice on declogging the drain? I am thinking a heat gun to the drain opening might help with Drain-O
I would recommend heating the area up with a heat gun or hair dryer then score around the drain with a razor blade if that doesn't work then you can use a dermal tool to cut it out.
Be careful about removing the drain cover after 5 to 6 hours. I did this, and the bit that flowed into the drain clogged it at some point out of sight. Over the last few days I've been alternating letting acetone and boiling water sit, and praying.
My cup came up, I had hard time keeping it from drain, so I let it cover my drain too. But, I did a stand up shower, and the plumbing under my house is easily accessible. It didn’t stop up, but I know it’s larger than a regular tub.
The "scooped up" excess product from inside the tub can it be stored in air tight container to refinish another tub later? Or once mixed you only have 1 to 2 hr window?
Once the Part B also known as the hardener is mixed in you only have about an hour to work with the material before the hardener takes over and makes it too difficult to work.
How do you recommend refinishing a claw foot tub? With the rolled tub edges, I don't want the product to come in contact with the outside painted area of the tub.
You don't want to roll the material on the foam roller is used to help ight push the material around to help it self level. If you were to roll the material with the foam roller it would be applied too thin and would caused streaking and yellowing.
Hey I just did my clawfoot tub and it turn out great except for one spot on the back rim of tub. It was a bit thick I guess even though I rolled it. It looks a bit smudged and wont cure. It's been 3 days and that spot wont cure. What do I do?
Hello @sixgunsue8 when you say one spot has not cured, do you mean that this spot is still tacky, not fully dry? The curing time is different than the drying time!
@@sixgunsue8 i apologize your best bet would be to recoat that that area! the only reason it wouldn’t dry is due to not enough part b which is the hardener being mixed in or not mixed properly.
Yes it does, just make sure the unit does have a flex. If it has a flex that would need to be fixed with expanding foam. A flex is when you can push on the shower walls or floor and they move.
Peel up what you can of the old stuff. Then sand the rest smooth to the touch. Make sure it's smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper . If its not smooth then it will mirror that affected area. Then etch and deep clean with Lysol Power or any toile bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it. From there you can tape up and pour.
I re-casted my tub without removing the drain hardware (I realize this was a mistake). Can I use a dremel to remove the coating that is on the steel drain? Or should it be sanded off?
Can use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the area then score around it with a razor blade and try to cut it out if this doesn't work then can use the dermal tool and cut it out. Then can sand smooth with 220-320 and buff it or use touch up if needed.
Why even remove it? I personally was thinking about painting the drain with ekopel because I've refinished one tub in past and started chipping at the drain. So I thought I might just paint the drain along with it. The likely hood of having to replace the drain is next to nothing. Any thoughts?
Try applying acetone for at least one hour, prior to applying heat. I've been repeating the cycle for some epoxy that went down my drain, and it has gradually started to crumble.
I would recommend sanding with 220-320 grit sandpaper even if its pretty smooth give it a quick ruff up. Then from there you will want to clean the surface with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner this is important because it also etches the surface. then from there you can pour.
You should sand first, you will want it to be smooth to the touch then deep clean and etch with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it.
Do you have to remove the caulk around the tub first then apply this? Also, I read you mentioned on a comment every hour after removing tape scoop out paint?
yes remove the caulk peel up what you can of the old finish and sand the rest smooth to the touch. Then give it a eep clean and etch with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner. you will want to remove the tape dam after 1 and scoop excess hourly really baby sit it then remove the rest at 4-5 hours.
We have our roll on kits if you are interested! This video focuses on our pour on kit and the material is too thick to be directly rolled onto the surface. If you have any more questions call us 877-TUB-CAST.
Hi, I have a tub that was previously reglazed/painted. I noticed you said to "sand it smooth". I don't need to go through the awful process of stripping the whole thing? It has peeled around the drain. Thank you
I would recommend peeling up what you can of the old finish then sand the rest smooth to the touch with 400 grit sandpaper. Even the smooth areas give a quick ruff up then use Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it this etches the surface.
hi i have a question i am restoring my bathroom back to its original and the original tub was pink but was replaced before me now a off white but everything else is original pink is there a way to tint this to make my tub the correct original color?
![Megan Thee Stallion - Mamushi (Remix) [feat. TWICE] [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5c0_u9PsrsQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This stuff is the most amazing stuff....my tub came out perfect.. it was so easy to use... ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐🌟...I give it 10 stars..
thanks for the review
If your tub was previously paintee do you need to sand all the othwr paint off?
After watching the Ekopel video and yours, I feel confident in my ability to tackle this project and can't wait to turn my tan tub into a glossy white stunner! My kit arrives this week. Thank you!
I finally did it, and was a lot easier than I expected. If you follow the directions, no shortcuts, you should get great results! Hand stir, no mixer. Why? When you use the drill mixer, you aerate the product. Surface preparation is the key. You’ve got to use the cleaner he suggests. I used hydrochloric acid. I wish I knew how to attach a pix of my shower! My shower wasn’t level, I used it to create a level setting, since it flows with gravity. Doing this, I let it dry for 4 days, because it was thick on one side. I will use the product again.
Thanks for this updated How-To with the latest techniques. Have watched the older 4-step video series and another update from late 2019, but this one covers the tools and steps for the kit I have.
I’ll start by saying that I was extremely excited to try your product. We are doing a complete high end bathroom renovation and my wife convinced me to try and resurface our existing tub. We replaced everything down to the studs except for bath tub. My wife had an emotional attachment because she gave birth to our youngest in the tub. This was 18 years ago. I know… I wanted to toss it and replace it. BUT being the good guy I am I promised to do everything possible to resurrect it. I researched and researched and found your product. Read lots of reviews and watched all of the instructional videos. So me and the wife rolled up the sleeves and away we went. We were excited at first but as I stirred the product together I noticed it seemed much thicker than the product in the videos. We stirred fir 10 minutes, let sit to activate for another 10 and then stirred for 1. The product was so thick that it didn’t run well. It also seemed like there wasn’t enough. The result were noticeable thin areas in the tub and didn’t have enough for the front. So we tried to roll on as much as we could and it resulted in runs along the front with very thin areas. We worked within the 60 minutes and timed everything. Against my better judgment we now ordered another batch from Amazon to arrive tomorrow. I’m hoping that a second layer will clean up the imperfections. So another $200 + tax spent on this old tub. I noticed the product I just ordered looks slightly different than the first product I received from Amazon. I think I received an older variation of the product. Is it possible that it was passed an expiration date? Anyhow wish me luck. If the second batch covers the imperfections from the first run I’ll recommend your product. However, if this doesn’t do it I’ll repost and let everyone know. Including tax I’m now $450 invested in this old tub. Wish me luck. I really want this product to work for my wife. For those looking to order this product from Amazon… make sure you get the newest variation of the product. I have a feeling I got a bad/expired batch.
Ok I think I figured out what went wrong. I looked at the box my product came in which says for shower pan . ???? So I went back on Amazon and looked at my order history. The seller was refinished bath solutions but fulfilled my Amazon. The product I ordered says Ekopel 2K Bathtub Refinishing Kit. To make things even more strange if I select “Buy it Again” on my Amazon Account History it takes me to a kit that says “Ekopel 2K Sink Teginushing Kit”. I have no idea how it advertised “Bathtub Kit”, I received a “Shower Pan Kit”, and reordering shows it as a “Sink Refunushing Kit”. I’m assuming that a bathtub requires more product than a sink. Is it exactly the product makeup?? I really hope this didn’t mess up the finish on the tub. I thought I had made an error or received faulty product. As it turns out I received the wrong item. I guess that is why the new bathtub kit I ordered tonight looks different. I’m calling Amazon tomorrow. If someone from refinished bath solutions sees this post in the next 12 hours please let me know if this has messed up my tub and if putting the correct product overtop of it will fix the problem. Im upset with Amazon fulfillment. I shouldn’t being paying for getting shipped the wrong item. I’m guessing this is why there wasn’t enough coverage for my entire tub?
A lesson to those ordering from Amazon. Make sure you received the correct kit before applying it.
Ok one last follow up and review, I resolved my issue with Amazon. They offered a refund but the damage was already done. Due to me overworking the product the first time around and trying to make half the volume cover an entire tub caused my problem. So there are blemishes that could have otherwise been avoided.
For a final review. The product is a good product. It does what it says it will do if you follow the instructions. Our exterior tub bed is curved. Not flat, with lots of ridges. This caused an issue because the product dripped off of high points/ridges and didn’t flow down the entire surface. This caused a lot of dripping and I would have to go back over too many times past its working time. So I wasn’t happy with the exterior finish on my tub. The exterior of our tub wasn’t bad before I began. Had I known this to be an issue ahead of time, I would have taped off the paper at the first top ridge. But the colour may not have matched either. So just be aware if your tub face isn’t completely flat. The rest of the tub finished up great. One thing I’d suggest.., I covered the floor vent next to our tub because any extra air movement would blow dust or any non-visible hair onto the surface.
I see that you also carry a touch up bathtub kit. I have a little wear around the tub drain area. I would love to see a video in the future on how to just do a touch on the tub as opposed to a how tub refinish.
I was about to throw away our very old double cast iron sink then I found this. Thank you!
So it came out good! But you can tell an amateur did it because I have some ripples only on the outside. I also have some pooling because the roller that came with it, (I didn’t follow your advice to make sure it worked first, which it did but not when I was using it on the ekopel) so I suggest the old method, a lot easier to move product around with a flat edge. All in all I wish I had this guy here to do it for me since he makes it look so easy.... but since I don’t, my okayish results will have to do... better than before that’s for sure
This is the first honest comment I have seen. Just looking at this guy it looks like it's easy to f it up ..I'm gonna pass 😊
Very nicely done
I did the project in about 2.5 hours. Pretty easy. Looks great. I need a little clean up at the base as the product leaked under my tape. Hopefully it will scrape off the tile
Thank you for commenting! We appreciate your feedback! Acetone is great to remove ekopel from unwanted areas.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions so I forgot to remove the tape over the drain and now the finish has hardened and while it looks beautiful, I have to be able to get that out. Does acetone work once it’s hardened or am I going to need a chisel? This is a bad problem.
I watched the video and wow it came out great now I’m a union electrician so I’m good with hands and that looked to easy to be true lol, I am really interested in product So anyone use this and is it that easy, any info would be appreciated!!!
Thank you for showing us
extremely helpful video,ive just finshed my bath and it looks great,just wondering is the drying time to be at 75 degres for 48 hrs after completion?
How did the finish hold up after a couple years?
My tub was apparently resurfaced years ago, and now it is peeling off. Also, there is rust on the bottom of the tub. Should I strip the whole thing before using this product?
It does not need to be completely removed however it does need to be sanded smooth so there no chipping or peeling. The rust should be sanded off smooth as well, you are welcome to use a paint stripper to make the process easier however just ensure that it is fully rinsed off and cleaned with what we now recommend soft scrub and completely dried before going ahead and applying ekopel. If you have any more questions you can feel free to give us a call.
Amazing video
thank you! Excellent help!
Glad it helped!
Very instructive thank you !
Your Videos are amazing
Question: after everything is done, what product to use for regular cleaning?
We recommend using scrubbing bubbles or Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. As long as it does not have bleach in it and it is non abrasive cleaner.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions thank you!
Question: so is it necessary to etch the tub? Or can i deep clean and go from just there?
Thank you for commenting! Yes, etching is necessary. With recent updates, we now recommend using "Soft Scrub" for better etching results. If you have any other questions or need any guidance please feel free to call us at 877-882-2278!
Incredible product and so happy it was developed. How long has this been known to last? Has anyone needed to resurface a sink or tub after applying this?
Glad to hear you love the product so much! With all the proper prep work it will last up to 20 years with no peels!
@@RefinishedBathSolutions WOW. Awesome. Thank you very much for the info
What kind of non-skid additive would you recommend for the tub floor?
Hi there! We do have a non-slip kit available on our website and Amazon. Here is the link to our website: refinishedbathsolutions.com/collections/all-products/products/ekopel-2k-non-slip-floor-coating
I followed the process but part of the bathtub has lost the glaze and a scar is created which is sticky though the tub was used after 72 hours. Any thoughts and recommendation?
Hi, i was about to do my bathtub. Read your comment, did someone get back to you?
Thank u very much!!! 🤗🙋🏻♀️shalom!
You are so welcome!!
will this work on cast iron tub on which some of the surfaces have slight rust?
Try and remove the rust, other than that yes it will work on the cast iron tub.
Can you demonstrate a clawfoot tub?
I have a tub and shower surround, all one-piece. Will one kit satisfactorily cover this entire tub and surround?
Thank you for commenting. Yes, I would recommend our bathtub with surround roll-on kit. This gives enough material to cover 100 square feet with 2 coats.
Can’t wait to try
Do you caulk before or after
hi i have a question i am restoring my bathroom back to its original and the original tub was pink but was replaced before me now a off white but everything else is original pink is there a way to tint this to make my tub the correct original color?
We don't recommend tinting. But if you wanted to try to tint ekopel you could use autobody paint.
i messed up i see running paint in some places and the outside is horrible.... do they sell a smaller version of this so i dont have to spend 160$
36 hours is gonna be tough can I put a small heater in the bathroom to speed the process? The tubs been done before and it looks like ....well the best way to describe it is like the beginning of an avalanche where a huge slab slips down a mountain. The epoxy looks like that . Like a fissure a long "crack" in the finish then the slide. I'm assuming that's from lack of prep but my two boys stomp through the house it's a 100 yr old farm cracker style house . With them bouncing through the house like that could that be an issue? I'm not talking Richter scale bumps but kids ya know? Thanks for any input you can offer
Can this be used on an old cast iron tub?
Yes it can!
After sanding and using Lysol Power, do you need to clean off the Lysol Power? Rinse it off or just let it dry? 🤷🏻♂️
Rinse off the lysol completely after letting it sit / scrubbing it on the surface for 10-15 minutes. After rinsing it completely off make sure the surface is completely dry before going ahead and applying.
What’s the difference between painting and recasting a tub? Is recasting better?
hi I have the 2k kit, the chipped bathtub has rust where its chipped, how do I repair that area. any clips, suggestion please let me have a link.
We don't have a video on it but for any cracks, chips, or dents you can fill them with car bondo.
I used the Ekopel three days ago and the bath tub came out beautiful. Can I use whats left over in the can on another tub after its been sitting for a few days?
No, Unforchunetly once the Part B (the hardner) is mixed in then you only have about an hour to work with it. After that is becomes too difficult to work with. If you were to go back to the can the next day it would be like cement and there is no way to resoft and reuse.
How long does this product will last?
The coating can last for 15-20 years or more if all recommendations for applying the material are followed in conjunction with proper and careful maintenance.
What kind of caulking do you recommend using after the ekopel is fully dry? (Silicone, latex acrylic, etc.)
Always use 100% silicone caulk around the tub walls
I just got my Ekopel kit and had a couple of questions before I get started: I noticed you use standard beige masking tape. I have the scotch blue painter tape. Will that works as well or do you recommend the beige tape? Also what do you recommend for cleaning drips that get on the floor, etc,? Thanks.
Any painters tape will work fine. If you get any ekopel on the floor you can clean it with acetone or nail polish remover. We recommend to clean the tub with scrubbing bubble or tilex after you've recasted. Don't use bleach or anything too abrasive. We recommend for prep work to clean with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it.
Thanks William for asking and @@RefinishedBathSolutions for the answer. I have the blue tape too and am glad to know it is okay to use.
About a year after using ekopel refinish, a light brown streak has emerged down the middle of the tub.. any suggestions on how to cover or remove this streak?
Have you determined whether it is on top of the surface or is the surface? Could it be rust from your water? Maybe it would come off with CLR, for example? I’m still considering Ekopel.
@@tennnis498 In fact it was a (Lysol) disinfectant spray I had used for a couple months. It coated the surface.. and then slowly streamed toward the drain when wet from use of the shower. But a residue would build up on the floor of the tub, in a streaming fashion. I eventually figured it out and began to only used bleach based cleaner.. then over several cleanings.. it was gone.
@@skippyjammers2747 how is your ekopel holding up?
@@tennnis498 very well! It's been about a year now. The Ekopel brought the tub up to looking new.. and that hasn't changed. And I'm happy that the brown streak was not from Ekopel!
Wish I watched this video before doing mine, Ekopel's own video said nothing about the roller so I was afraid to try it...
Hey there! Thanks for watching our video. Just to clarify, we are actually Ekopel, the makers of the product. It sounds like you might have seen a different video on the European RUclips channel that covers some different details. Our European branch manages that channel, so there could be variations in content. If you have any questions specific to our video or need further clarification, feel free to ask! We're here to help. 😊
I am restoring a 1929
cast iron porcelain Double drain single bowl farm sink and it has a large rust spot in the bottom of the bowl . Will this cover the rust spot after being sanded and cleaned ? Also will it level out to be an even look ?
Can peel up what you can or any loose bits then sand the rest smooth. As long as it's smooth to the touch it won't mirror the affected area. Can fill any cracks, chips, holes, dents, uneven areas with car bondo then sand smooth and etch.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Thank you !!
When using Ekopel 2K to resurface a kitchen sink will this ever crack or chip outside of the sink itself if like a pot drops on it?
When placing heavy objects, such as pots and pans or silverware into a reglazed sink, exercise caution to prevent potential damages. While damages are unlikely to occur, its best to handle heavier objects with care. Let us know if you have any other questions!
I used Rustoleum Tub and Tile refinishing kit on my tub about 3 years ago. Our ceramic soap dish is in the wall a few inches above the tub edge surface and constantly drips soapy water on the tub when we shower. I cleaned the tub well before I applied the product but the finish started to peel where it runs down the side of the tub after the first couple of years. If I recast the tub with Ekopel will I have to worry about this happening again?
no ekopel doesn't peel if all the proper prep is done
Does anyone know if there are any UV inhibitors mixed into the product to prevent eventual yellowing?
Are there “freshness dates” for the individual chemicals?
Commercial epoxy usually has a manufacturing date for the components printed on the container.
I have used other brands of specialized epoxy paint and had paint failures due to extended UV exposure (outdoor sun for 12 months) on automobile wheels.
I have also had UV yellowing occur on commercial epoxy floors due to high output fluorescent lamp fixtures (indoors). Yes, you CAN have UV damage indoors (especially here in FLA).
Our material does have a unique formula that prevents yellowing, especially from UV rays. There are not any expiration or "freshness dates" however we recommend a 2 year shelf life due to external temperature variations and so on. We are not the same as any previous materials you have mentioned you used.
Many of our professional installers are located in Florida, one in particular specialized in repairing high end yachts. He has no problem with yellowing to date. Reach out if you have any other questions! 877-882-2278
Can this be used on a one piece fiberglass tub with attached tub surround?
yes it can
can i do it twice because the first time is not perfect i see paint running on side inside tub 😩
Do you have to sand or buff down the tub before using this product? If I do what’s the best type of sand paper etc to use?
yes sanding and etching are a must! I would recommend sanding the whole thing with 220-320 then use Lysol power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it.
How do you know how much excess to scoop out?
Remove the visibly pooled areas on the bottom of the tub
Can we use the Lysol Power spray for bathroom tile and surfaces?
No it has to be the toilet cleaner nor any toilet cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it that's what etches the surface.
Will this kit and paint work on a galvanized steel water trough?
Yes, this epoxy can work on galvanized steel tub.
Is there any kind of touch up product if you discover you missed something after you are done?
Yes we have a touch up kit its the same material just a smaller amount. Can purchase from us direct or on amazon.
Do you need to put a sealer on top after done?
Nope no need!
Hi! Why do we must heat up the bathroom before using this product?
If you don't heat the room to at least 72 degrees it won't properly self level and spread. Also if its too cold it will have a difficult time drying in some cases it won't dry at all.
My drain dam broke and the material went down my drain. Advice on declogging the drain? I am thinking a heat gun to the drain opening might help with Drain-O
I would recommend heating the area up with a heat gun or hair dryer then score around the drain with a razor blade if that doesn't work then you can use a dermal tool to cut it out.
Be careful about removing the drain cover after 5 to 6 hours. I did this, and the bit that flowed into the drain clogged it at some point out of sight. Over the last few days I've been alternating letting acetone and boiling water sit, and praying.
My cup came up, I had hard time keeping it from drain, so I let it cover my drain too. But, I did a stand up shower, and the plumbing under my house is easily accessible. It didn’t stop up, but I know it’s larger than a regular tub.
Can this product be used on bathroom tile flooring? (Same tiles as the surround tiles.)
Yes it can!
If you have a tub/ shower combo do you need two kits?
yes at least 2 kits the 2 pk kit covers: 35-50 sq ft compared to the bathtub that covers: 20-30 sq ft
I’ll be doing this soon with my 🛀.
How long should this last when done properly?
This can last up to 20 years with proper application, and maintenance
The "scooped up" excess product from inside the tub can it be stored in air tight container to refinish another tub later? Or once mixed you only have 1 to 2 hr window?
Once the Part B also known as the hardener is mixed in you only have about an hour to work with the material before the hardener takes over and makes it too difficult to work.
How do you recommend refinishing a claw foot tub? With the rolled tub edges, I don't want the product to come in contact with the outside painted area of the tub.
I would recommend taping off where you don't ant the ekopel to come inn contact, just in case it drips.
Bravo.👏
Please tell me why it says on the website do no use a roller for application yet here it shows us how to use a roller.
You don't want to roll the material on the foam roller is used to help ight push the material around to help it self level. If you were to roll the material with the foam roller it would be applied too thin and would caused streaking and yellowing.
I have a pink bath tub. Is one coat going to be enough?
If applied thick enough it should cover with 1 coat.
Hey I just did my clawfoot tub and it turn out great except for one spot on the back rim of tub. It was a bit thick I guess even though I rolled it. It looks a bit smudged and wont cure. It's been 3 days and that spot wont cure. What do I do?
Hello @sixgunsue8 when you say one spot has not cured, do you mean that this spot is still tacky, not fully dry? The curing time is different than the drying time!
@@RefinishedBathSolutions Yes, tacky. It's been nearly a week now.
I really need help ASAP, it's in our airbnb and we need to open soon!
Ok, I'm really getting frustrated. The rest of the tub is perfect and then there's this mess at one end. What do I do to fix it??
@@sixgunsue8 i apologize your best bet would be to recoat that that area! the only reason it wouldn’t dry is due to not enough part b which is the hardener being mixed in or not mixed properly.
Does it work on a fiberglass tub?
Yes it does, just make sure the unit does have a flex. If it has a flex that would need to be fixed with expanding foam. A flex is when you can push on the shower walls or floor and they move.
Does it work just as well on porcelain sinks?
yes works GREAT on porcelain sinks!
What about a tub that is heavily chipped and peeling from the inside? What should I do before applying the paint besides cleaning it?
Peel up what you can of the old stuff. Then sand the rest smooth to the touch. Make sure it's smooth to the touch with 220-320 grit sandpaper . If its not smooth then it will mirror that affected area. Then etch and deep clean with Lysol Power or any toile bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it. From there you can tape up and pour.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions I really appreciate your response, thank you! Wish me luck 🤞
Can you spray it with a hvlp sprayer?
no it has to be poured on. If it is applied any other way it will cause yellowing and streaking.
I re-casted my tub without removing the drain hardware (I realize this was a mistake). Can I use a dremel to remove the coating that is on the steel drain? Or should it be sanded off?
Can use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the area then score around it with a razor blade and try to cut it out if this doesn't work then can use the dermal tool and cut it out. Then can sand smooth with 220-320 and buff it or use touch up if needed.
Why even remove it? I personally was thinking about painting the drain with ekopel because I've refinished one tub in past and started chipping at the drain. So I thought I might just paint the drain along with it. The likely hood of having to replace the drain is next to nothing. Any thoughts?
Try applying acetone for at least one hour, prior to applying heat. I've been repeating the cycle for some epoxy that went down my drain, and it has gradually started to crumble.
I want to refinish my shower pan, does it require any sanding? And or any primer?
I would recommend sanding with 220-320 grit sandpaper even if its pretty smooth give it a quick ruff up. Then from there you will want to clean the surface with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner this is important because it also etches the surface. then from there you can pour.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions
Am I wet sanding either sandpaper?
Can this product be sprayed
no its too thick to be sprayed and can't be thinned. If ekopel is applied any other way than being poured it will cause yellowing and streaking
Could you use this on tile?
Yes, but our new roll on version is easier to complete and comes out great every time
will this work on a cast iron clawfoot tub?
Yes, it would work great on that!!
do we need to etch the bathtub before using the product?
Yes etched with toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid and and then sanded smooth.
where can we buy this stuff from, I am in London
You can order it from Pabrec
So no need to sand after cleaning?
You should sand first, you will want it to be smooth to the touch then deep clean and etch with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it.
Thanks
so how are you finishing off the areas of the tub that were taped off? You never show that.
You remove the tape dam after 1 hour and then scoop hourly after. Wait 4-6 hours to remove thee rest of the tape.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions - Sorry, but what do you mean by "scoop hourly after"? Scoop what?
What kind of ventilation is needed?
Ekopel 2K is odorless, and non toxic so there is no ventilation required. You can open a window if you'd like.
Will this work with standing water in the middle of the bathtub?
how my would you need for garden tub?
I think I would order 1 standard kit and 1 sink size kit. This would be enough.
Do you have to remove the caulk around the tub first then apply this? Also, I read you mentioned on a comment every hour after removing tape scoop out paint?
yes remove the caulk peel up what you can of the old finish and sand the rest smooth to the touch. Then give it a eep clean and etch with Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner. you will want to remove the tape dam after 1 and scoop excess hourly really baby sit it then remove the rest at 4-5 hours.
Can you do a shower stall with Ekopel 2k? Would you still try to pour it or roll it?
Can you do 2 thin coats?
You would still pour. Ekopel is far to thick to roll on.
Why pour and not spray or roll on
We just released our roll on application product
What products can I use to clean it?
For aftercare we recommend scrubbing bubbles, nothing with bleach and nothing too abrasive.
Why not just roll it and save all that pouring mess?
We have our roll on kits if you are interested! This video focuses on our pour on kit and the material is too thick to be directly rolled onto the surface. If you have any more questions call us 877-TUB-CAST.
@RefinishedBathSolutions thanks! Yeah, I'd like to order one. Do you ship to Canada?
Hi, I have a tub that was previously reglazed/painted. I noticed you said to "sand it smooth". I don't need to go through the awful process of stripping the whole thing? It has peeled around the drain.
Thank you
I would recommend peeling up what you can of the old finish then sand the rest smooth to the touch with 400 grit sandpaper. Even the smooth areas give a quick ruff up then use Lysol Power or any toilet bowl cleaner that has hydrochloric acid in it this etches the surface.
@@RefinishedBathSolutions awesome thanks!
Why do you pour the material? It would seem with the leveling of the product you could roll it on and let it level getting a even coat.
The material has to be poured on if its applied any other way it would be applied to thin and will cause yellowing and streaking.
En français
Pour on... but you roll on... hmmmm..
We have 2 completely different products. Pour on Version, and Roll On Version. They don’t interchange though.
hi i have a question i am restoring my bathroom back to its original and the original tub was pink but was replaced before me now a off white but everything else is original pink is there a way to tint this to make my tub the correct original color?