I appreciate your video documentation to help me pre-plan my repair, it went flawless. For others' reference, the 1/2" BrassCraft valve I repaired needed a 13/16" wrench on the body and a 7/8" wrench on the bonnet nut, I figure this is pretty standard. Unfortunately wrenches that large are beyond the standard wrench set, so adjustable wrenches are the next best thing. I also value the comments of all the contributors and agree that you should inspect the inside of the valve body for residual rubber gasket pieces from the old stem. My old internal rubber gasket had broken/crushed into pieces that were stuck in the valve seat. It came out easily with a pick tool, and of course the new valve stem would not have worked (seated properly) if I didn't clean it completely out. I did an extra half-turn on the bonnet nut with the wrench after hand-tighting the reassembly, which still allows for future tightening in case of packing leaks. I'll also note that my original 25 year-old valves (1997 construction) had plastic stems, so as long as the manufacturer didn't cheapen the plastic repair kit, this material of construction should be sufficient. Thank you!
Happy to help, SCOTT.. and I appreciate all the extra tips .. this has become a good thread covering pretty much all that needs to be addressed that I missed in the video.. have a blessed day my friend :)
When you took out the stem and noticed it had no rubber washer at the tip I would have looked inside with a flashlight to see if it had popped off and was still stuck inside the valve body. It could still be there and you'd have doubled up washers. Or, there could be ripped pieces of gasket stuck in place which would cause an uneven sealing surface preventing full shutoff in the future. The old washer might be ripped or deteriorated which could affect sealing when closed. It might slow water flow too. It might work fine either way, but I'd still be curious and look inside with a flashlight if I repaired it. But, thanks for posting this anyway. it's still a helpful video and also shows the order of assembly of the 3 washers.
I'm with Timothy, I can't believe you didn't look to see if the rubber seal was still in there in front of the seat. And with Doug H. , on using a proper wrench. If you're going to make a video teaching people how to do something, please prepare and do it correctly. Thank you, Davy Jones
Thanks for a very helpful video and letting me know that I'm not the only person who constantly repeats "lefty loosey righty tighty" when doing home repairs.
One of the tips I recommend, shut off main building water, then turn on shutoff valve all the way. If you do not do this, you won’t be able to remove the stem.
I’d tighten the bonnet nut with a wrench and not just a hand tighten and always back up with a second wrench. Both Crescent and not channel lock pliers.
thank you for your video.. I don't know if anyone else ran into my problem so I'm sorry if I'm repeating.. when you took off the bonnet nut the stem came right out with it.. I kept tugging and tugging with a pliers but the stem wouldn't budge.. I finally realized it has to be UNSCREWED to come out.. hope this comment helps someone
You could have just bought a washer kit the stem itself was probably fine. Walmart sells washer kits for about $2 , either way good job. I put dope around stem when I put them back together.
Everyone seems to want the 1/4 turn valves these days. I have three in one bathroom that has threaded galvanized pipe. That’s OK as I can easily replace them without shortening the pipe every time. The rest of the house is PEX with Brass Craft multi turns. I can rebuild them without shortening the pipe every time. For many, having 1/4 turn stops means calling a plumber every time you have a leaking angle valve. Just use multi turns. It takes what….3 secs longer to close the valve on a multi turn? 1/4 turn valves definitely have their place but not in kitchens or bathrooms.
I want to do this fix on my valves, but I'm worried something might go wrong and I'll be forced to leave the main water line shut off and I won't be able to use water in the house. Is there any chance something might go wrong by doing this fix? What would you rate the success rate of doing this repair?
This is one of the few videos, or really only - I've found one other where they just tighten it, that show you how to replace the stem while the valve is still on the pipe.
Thanks for the video, it encourages me to try it on some of the problematic shut-off valves. However, after replacing the stem kit, it still leaks around the packing nut. I applied silicon grease and Teflon tape on the threads and tightened the packing nut a few times. Had done it 2 times already. Any suggestions?
Actually, I found another old one in my stash, but had different threads. I noticed the gasket on my existing one was gone, so I stole it off the one I found...Now my shut off shuts off !
@@ETPCYT I think I will need to just buy the whole valve, according to several hardware store guys. I'm trying to just replace that part instead of replacing a few valves that have corroded bonnet valves. I'll just buy bunch of valves and take the parts i need off them. Thanks
I did this for my hot water valve also and I found that after a few months the water flow slowly decreased. When I tried to turn the valve to turn off it was very difficult to turn. I think the plastic material is not good long term specially for hot. Curious if you experience the same after months of use.
Sometimes if turned too much the plastic can become damaged and not function correctly. Also over time the washers can break down .. depending on your water it can be slower or faster. Take care my FRIEND :)
I'm not a plumber. A few guesses are: The plastic twist threads of the stem are possibly deforming and abrading by rubbing against the much harder brass as the original poster suggested which would mess up the thread alignment between the stem and the valve body. The plastic stem threads or the rubber seals are possibly temporarily swollen or softened and stickier from the heat. You could test this by shutting off the main hot water supply and let the valve in question cool down and then see if it turns easier. If it's still hard to turn when cool then it doesn't rule out that the nitrile washers are permanently soft or gunky from the constant exposure to excessive heat. You could test this by observing the consistency and deformity of the washers to see if they appear unusual. It could also be excessive mineral buildup on the threads from the hot water corroding other parts of the system. Can the parts tolerate silicon grease? If they can safely tolerate it then applying that to the stem twisting threads and washer contact surface might help. I'm not a plumber, these are just observations and ideas to test out. A professional plumber might be able to observe the condition of many old plastic valve stems and washers as he he removes them and observe how they've aged and see what broke down. When the hot water valves get difficult to turn I'm thinking a brass stem would feel more secure against breakage.
I don't have access to that repair kit locally. If I buy another shut off valve can I take the stem out of that one to replace or are they not universal?
Yes plumbers charge $100 for this because they know what they are doing and talking about. They know how to drain your system to not have to shove a plastic bag into the valve. They have also gone through lots of schooling and training, and have overhead.
I appreciate your video documentation to help me pre-plan my repair, it went flawless. For others' reference, the 1/2" BrassCraft valve I repaired needed a 13/16" wrench on the body and a 7/8" wrench on the bonnet nut, I figure this is pretty standard. Unfortunately wrenches that large are beyond the standard wrench set, so adjustable wrenches are the next best thing. I also value the comments of all the contributors and agree that you should inspect the inside of the valve body for residual rubber gasket pieces from the old stem. My old internal rubber gasket had broken/crushed into pieces that were stuck in the valve seat. It came out easily with a pick tool, and of course the new valve stem would not have worked (seated properly) if I didn't clean it completely out. I did an extra half-turn on the bonnet nut with the wrench after hand-tighting the reassembly, which still allows for future tightening in case of packing leaks. I'll also note that my original 25 year-old valves (1997 construction) had plastic stems, so as long as the manufacturer didn't cheapen the plastic repair kit, this material of construction should be sufficient. Thank you!
Happy to help, SCOTT.. and I appreciate all the extra tips .. this has become a good thread covering pretty much all that needs to be addressed that I missed in the video.. have a blessed day my friend :)
I am a 70 years young and a DIY person. Thank you very much for your video, I could not have done the stem replacement without it.
Hello ANTONIA :) Thanks so much for stopping by the channel :) I am so glad this was helpful! Have a wonderful day! And thanks for the inspiration!
When you took out the stem and noticed it had no rubber washer at the tip I would have looked inside with a flashlight to see if it had popped off and was still stuck inside the valve body. It could still be there and you'd have doubled up washers. Or, there could be ripped pieces of gasket stuck in place which would cause an uneven sealing surface preventing full shutoff in the future. The old washer might be ripped or deteriorated which could affect sealing when closed. It might slow water flow too. It might work fine either way, but I'd still be curious and look inside with a flashlight if I repaired it. But, thanks for posting this anyway. it's still a helpful video and also shows the order of assembly of the 3 washers.
Great tip TIMOTHY, thank YOU :)
I'm with Timothy, I can't believe you didn't look to see if the rubber seal was still in there in front of the seat. And with Doug H. , on using a proper wrench. If you're going to make a video teaching people how to do something, please prepare and do it correctly. Thank you, Davy Jones
Very good suggestions, I did find the ripped pieces of gasket after pulling out the stem and used a flat screw driver to get them out. Many thanks.
@@davyjones365 a lot of my stuff is kinda learn as you go :)
Thanks for a very helpful video and letting me know that I'm not the only person who constantly repeats "lefty loosey righty tighty" when doing home repairs.
haha it's a catchy and helpful phrase for sure :)
One of the tips I recommend, shut off main building water, then turn on shutoff valve all the way. If you do not do this, you won’t be able to remove the stem.
Great tip! Thank you my FRIEND :)
Great, no nonsense to the point video on HOW TO FIX YOUR MULTI TURN VALVE WITH A STEM REPAIR KIT. Thank you.
YOU are welcome, MARK :)
This was very helpful. I will try replacing the stem instead of replacing the whole valve with a quarter turn valve. Thanks.
Hey DUANE! YOU are most welcome, I hope it worked out
Never saw anyone use a Cresent wrench that way. Surprised you got the torque
lol yeah.. not the best tool for that but.. it did the trick lol
I’d tighten the bonnet nut with a wrench and not just a hand tighten and always back up with a second wrench. Both Crescent and not channel lock pliers.
Good advice.. the channel locks are definitely not the best tool
thank you for your video.. I don't know if anyone else ran into my problem so I'm sorry if I'm repeating.. when you took off the bonnet nut the stem came right out with it.. I kept tugging and tugging with a pliers but the stem wouldn't budge.. I finally realized it has to be UNSCREWED to come out.. hope this comment helps someone
Thank YOU so much for the comment.. I am sure it will help others :)
Thank you worked perfectly. Quick and painless, except for my little water clean up mess. But cost 2.75 including tax at the big box store. Woohoo.
Great job, JENNIFER :)
Thank you, so much! I replaced both shut off valves under the bathroom vanity and worked out just like you said.
😃
So glad it helped you, LORI ANNE. good job on replacing them
Thank you ☺️ I’m in Lowe’s right this second. Gonna replace both of them.
Nice! Best of luck, CARY :)
@@ETPCYT it worked. I may do all the water valves now. So nasty what came out of the metal ones.
@@carystarke8000 Yeah, for sure.. not sure how long these last .. wouldnt' be a bad idea :) YOU will be a pro at it by then Take care my FRIEND :)
Cool... was about to unsolder my old one... guess I will just replace the stem!!! Nice video and informative.
You know that you’re getting old when you are YouTubing Plumbing Shut Off Valves, instead of TWERKING “””””””””””””””””
This was a very helpful video! Thank you very much for taking the time to post it.
YOU are most welcome :)
You can buy the whole valve assembly and remove the valve parts with handle and put in on.
Thanks , Rick
You could have just bought a washer kit the stem itself was probably fine. Walmart sells washer kits for about $2 , either way good job. I put dope around stem when I put them back together.
GOod point my FRIEND... I think the stem was probably still okay .. but it was like 20 years old so I said what the heck :) Take care :)
Yeah what a waste. He could have saved a whole dollar by buying the washer kit instead of buying the 3 dollar stem replacement kit.
Everyone seems to want the 1/4 turn valves these days. I have three in one bathroom that has threaded galvanized pipe. That’s OK as I can easily replace them without shortening the pipe every time.
The rest of the house is PEX with Brass Craft multi turns. I can rebuild them without shortening the pipe every time.
For many, having 1/4 turn stops means calling a plumber every time you have a leaking angle valve.
Just use multi turns. It takes what….3 secs longer to close the valve on a multi turn?
1/4 turn valves definitely have their place but not in kitchens or bathrooms.
lol agree ;)
I want to do this fix on my valves, but I'm worried something might go wrong and I'll be forced to leave the main water line shut off and I won't be able to use water in the house. Is there any chance something might go wrong by doing this fix? What would you rate the success rate of doing this repair?
With the correct parts.. this should be 100%success rate
perfect, and liked! I'm far from handy, and appreciate the details and explanations
This is one of the few videos, or really only - I've found one other where they just tighten it, that show you how to replace the stem while the valve is still on the pipe.
I hope it helped ;)
You didn't snug up the packing nut with a wrench? Good luck with that! LOL.
so far so good :)
I can’t even remove that handle with philip head screw driver. I night spray with pb bluster.
They can get rusty/ damaged
Thanks for the video, it encourages me to try it on some of the problematic shut-off valves. However, after replacing the stem kit, it still leaks around the packing nut. I applied silicon grease and Teflon tape on the threads and tightened the packing nut a few times. Had done it 2 times already. Any suggestions?
Hmm check any rubber washers.. make sure they are intact...sometimes they can get damaged
Thank you. Fixing mine now
Hi ANGELA :) YOU are most welcome :) have a wonderful day :)
thanks followed and did it and got it working
Glad to hear it my FRIEND :)
use an adjustable wrench... not channel locks to remove the nut
Yes, very good advice my FRIEND. Always use the correct sized wrench whenever possible. Have a great day DOUG :)
Why should an adjustable wrench be used instead of the channel lock? (not disagreeing, just asking)
My compression shut off valve doesn’t shut off the water. Would a stem repair kit be a good first option to fixing my problem?
it's one of the possibilities .. generally its the oring or the seal that fails over time
Does Brasscraft make a multi-turn angle valve 1/2 by 3/8 with metal stems? I don't think the plastic stems will last?
hm I am not sure
You forgot to tighten the bonnet nut before you put the turn handle back on.
Ack thanks for letting me know
Does the repair kit work for BrassCraft straight stop valves?
I am not sure on the brands ..sorry
Bummer-I went to my local hardware store and they didn't have one! Not sure if they even stock that item.
hrm.... probably get one online then.. I found a couple from amazon.. Here is a plastic one : amzn.to/2XKYUw1 Here is a brass one: amzn.to/2TWV4Ph
Actually, I found another old one in my stash, but had different threads. I noticed the gasket on my existing one was gone, so I stole it off the one I found...Now my shut off shuts off !
@@dann2ptf Way to improvise! Nice job my FRIEND :)
Hi. I've been trying to get the bonnet nut. Any idea how to find that? Thanks
google?
@@ETPCYT I think I will need to just buy the whole valve, according to several hardware store guys. I'm trying to just replace that part instead of replacing a few valves that have corroded bonnet valves. I'll just buy bunch of valves and take the parts i need off them. Thanks
I did this for my hot water valve also and I found that after a few months the water flow slowly decreased. When I tried to turn the valve to turn off it was very difficult to turn. I think the plastic material is not good long term specially for hot. Curious if you experience the same after months of use.
Sometimes if turned too much the plastic can become damaged and not function correctly. Also over time the washers can break down .. depending on your water it can be slower or faster. Take care my FRIEND :)
I'm not a plumber. A few guesses are:
The plastic twist threads of the stem are possibly deforming and abrading by rubbing against the much harder brass as the original poster suggested which would mess up the thread alignment between the stem and the valve body.
The plastic stem threads or the rubber seals are possibly temporarily swollen or softened and stickier from the heat. You could test this by shutting off the main hot water supply and let the valve in question cool down and then see if it turns easier. If it's still hard to turn when cool then it doesn't rule out that the nitrile washers are permanently soft or gunky from the constant exposure to excessive heat. You could test this by observing the consistency and deformity of the washers to see if they appear unusual.
It could also be excessive mineral buildup on the threads from the hot water corroding other parts of the system.
Can the parts tolerate silicon grease? If they can safely tolerate it then applying that to the stem twisting threads and washer contact surface might help. I'm not a plumber, these are just observations and ideas to test out. A professional plumber might be able to observe the condition of many old plastic valve stems and washers as he he removes them and observe how they've aged and see what broke down. When the hot water valves get difficult to turn I'm thinking a brass stem would feel more secure against breakage.
Valve and stem after removing bonnet, is stuck. I can not open valve and the stem does not seem to turn. How to do I get stem out?
Can grab with pliers and gently wiggle back and forth?
@@ETPCYT Thank you for replying. I ended up breaking stem. I will try again today. I like your videos, very informative!
I don't have access to that repair kit locally. If I buy another shut off valve can I take the stem out of that one to replace or are they not universal?
That might be an option but I am not sure.. online order might be good?
did you already have the valve open to allow the stem to pull out?
I don't think it matters either way.
I liked this!!
I appreciate it JAMES :)
Good video, could do without the vocal fry though.
My apologies my FRIEND :)
You didn't tighten it back up, or use Teflon tape to seal the threads you didn't fully tighten 🥴
Teflon tape would have been a good thing... I thought I tightened it enough, didn't want to damage it
@@ETPCYT did it leak or anything tho? I was really curious, if it didn't then I was wrong and you what you needed
@@coltonaugustine8275 No leaking so far :) But your suggestions were good .. and I should have done the teflon tape
Shoutout to Katt Gun! Meow!
Yikes. Painful to watch this
haha.. not a pro :)
Damn so plubmers charge 100 for this.
yep, easy money :)
Yes plumbers charge $100 for this because they know what they are doing and talking about. They know how to drain your system to not have to shove a plastic bag into the valve. They have also gone through lots of schooling and training, and have overhead.