Support me on Patreon!: www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek Backyard Universe upgrade kit: tinyurl.com/3juwm5sz Telescope link: bit.ly/3BABCxl Flocking paper/Felt paper: amzn.to/3zASgvu or amzn.to/3m94zwa Musou Black Pain: amzn.to/3MfYU0m
lol. I hardly breathe while I'm near my mirrors. My first objective is to get my optics perfectly aligned, and then to stabilize the mounting. At the moment it flexes way too much. I have an old blue 200P f/5 that I picked up second hand. Future plans: - Beef up all springs - Add a coma corrector - Replace the primary mirror (but I'll measure it first) - Replace the secondary mirror assembly
Год назад+5
Nice video again Cuiv. I designed a bracket for my Celestron 8" Newtonian using FreeCAD and printed it on a 3D printer using PETG filament. I completely removed the old clips. The bracket I designed wraps around the mirror and securely holds it with just a 1.2-millimeter tab. The holding tabs of the clips are 5 millimeters long. As a result, there was no shrinkage on the surface of the mirror; in fact, the surface increased. To prevent the mirror from being damaged due to friction with the PETG bracket, I also designed a separate O-Ring and printed it using TPU filament.I would love to show you the photos, but unfortunately, I cannot upload pictures here.
Great, could you share the design by any chance? (btw, I Haven't met someone from Turkey that is into astrophotography till now, would like to chat with you).
A newtonian is normally open, so it's not needed. But if you ever need a "clean room" to handle mirrors or lenses you can get pretty close to it if you saturate your bathroom with vapor opening a hot shower for 2 minutes (just the air full of vapor, not enough for wet walls) and let it sit for a few minutes, the vapor will drag 99% of the dust in the air down with it.
Cuiv, I bought the Backyard-Universe CNC Spider for my GSO 150mm F/4 Newtonian, they do not have the mask yet, I cannot find the 3D printed website for the 63mm minor axis diagonal holder. Could you, please reveal where you found this part? Do you use Black 4.0 flat black paint? I flocked my 7" GSO steel tube and the thin metal spider vanes. Wow!~ what an improvement, great B&W ASI2600mm image of The Great Carina Nebula. Hopefully, the new CNC spider will produce an even better image.
I question you are lazy, but you are a true GEEK. You diligence, knowledge, and skill is amazing. Watching your videos on this scope makes me want one. The end price seems well justified.
Don’t know if you are short of ideas for videos. But I would really like your approach on things. If you could do a video on guiding. I know you talked about it before. But understanding pixel scale and rms with different range scope and guide scopes. Even OAG is not exactly the same. Like here is something that confuses me if I change guide scopes with the same camera why do it seem my mount gives the same rms. But I know the tracking is different. What effect rms and how to improve it along with tracking results. Pixel scale vs rms. Example .5 rms with a 5 to 1 ratio vs .3 rms for a 7 to ratio. What is better. Lol. I don’t know. We need you to deep dive. Please. And why to we need you to do it. Because we are lazier then you. Lol.
THANK YOU! it's a wonderful video. I also have this model. but how do you adjust the 0.4mm offset? Do you have to tighten the screws as you did with the original spider?
Thanks for this vid. I’ve been thinking of doing the same upgrade on mine. However, the focuser in this thing is really s!*t. Not good for astrophotography.
To be fair I think I demonstrated in the last video that with just a time investment you can get really good results out of it! Here we're going into incremental improvements really :-) And it does remind me that many fracs don't come with the flattener needed to make them usable imaging machines :-)
You said that this modification is not in keeping with your laziness. I would argue the opposite, as you won't have to constantly recollimate your scope.
For sure! Although if you don't want to design it and you want to make sure the borders are very smooth and the color is nice and matte, it may make sense to just buy it :-)
I don't understand how the rubber clamps could bend/pinch a 1in+ thick glass mirror and deform it. When the newt slews around, the mirror could lift off it's base and not reset to the same spot, ruining collimation during a planed object change. To me, it seems leaving a small space (even paper thin) would cause issues. Can someone explain?
As a guy who has built a bunch of newts.....if you are thinking of doing this mod to your scope, install the secondary and spider BEFORE you put the primary mirror back in the scope! No chance to drop it on the primary that way. I almost had a heart attack, lol.
Hi. Your videos are very good. I see your setup and I think how did you balance your setup? I see camera, focuser…everything is ahead…if I did the same my set up …turn left alone…🤦♂️
I got the better focuser on mine, I ordered it a few months ago. I checked the site I ordered it from and its still listed with the same focuser so theyre still shipping it with the better one.
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Thanks, I forgot to say that I love your series on that scope, I didn't even realise that the collimation could be so out of place, so I 3D printed my own collimation cap and realised how crooked everything was! I didn't even notice since I've only ever used a laser collimator. My secondary mirror was so far up the tube that the upper edge was just out of sight in the focuser tube when looking through the collimation cap. I centered it and readjusted its rotation. Everything is now close to perfectly centered I think, just waiting for a clear night to test it out and see if it has made a difference. It also took me like 2 hours to get it right though.
Very interesting! I was considering gluing the mirror with a non-hardening silicone sealant as a mask takes a bit away from your clear aperture. Obviously this is for small mirrors (130-150mm)
I have now 3d printed a mirror mask for my PDS150 from Skywatcher. The Spider have replaced two days ago with a similar one like you show in the video. Mine is from Aliexpress as I don't want to invest too much into the PDS150. Unfortunately minimum the next one to two following weeks are going to be cloudy in my area. Did you test the spider without the flocking on the vains? I have the flocking material received seperately but I did not know until watching your video for the second time now where it should be put. I hope that I am going to test my super-charged New't soon. 😊
Excellent video; like all the others, very educational. I also have a Nw150/600, but besides having to add the accessories you show in this video, I have to change the focuser, it's not very good, it works with friction; if I adjust it too much, the electronic EOF doesn't move it; if I unadjust it just a little, the coma corrector + the camera + the filter grid fall down. Do you have any advice on good focusers?
I’m a year late, but dealing with the people at “backyard Universe” was great! Super nice and helpful, even to an annoying American like me lol. Thanks for these helpful tips!
I'm getting a bad COVID vibe from that face mask... You took a below average newt and made it great with a couple hundred bucks. That's great, but you still have some diffraction spikes, even if sharper and shorter. Why not use a Newt with a corrector plate instead of a spider, such as a Schmidt/Mak Newtonian?
I don’t own an imaging Newtonian but I’ve been interested in getting one lately. This series on converting your cheap newt into a premium astrograph has been excellent for me to learn all of the ins and outs of how they are constructed and what parts to keep an eye on. Thank you very much! You’re a gem in the community and I have fun/learn every time you upload! I also want to fight you because my bank account is going to drop another $1000 after I do this for myself 😂. Clear skies from New York!
I thought the point of the mirror mask was to exclude light from the edges of the mirror, which on cheap ones might be the most imprecise ("rolled down edges"), not to hide the clips ? The thin spider vanes on the SW scopes are supposed to be a feature - .5mm thickness compared to 1.8mm thickness of CNC ones, but I think this is only marginal as the light blockage is only increased by 0.5% by the thicker ones. Not sure why you need a 3mm thick CNC mirror mask. DIY ones are made of thin plastic and sit against the mirror. I always thought the visible clips are also useful as collimation aids to check the secondary is central, so trimming off the clips removes this ? Not convinced by your "results". Jury out on this upgrade, but nice to see someone testing it. Thanks for showing this.
Hi Cuiv! I am based in New Zealand and have the same scope, and unfortunately have the same focuser issues you have. If you upgrade - what sort of focuser are you looking at? Also, you make great content!
Many thanks! I did it !! I upgraded my telescope! But i am not sure about the distance has to be between the secondary miror and the spider. I don't know how much I should tighten the central screw. Do you have any advice?. Very nice video again!!!
Ive been looking into getitng one of the secondary mirror holders for my 130pds but looking around the diffraction spikes seem to be ludicrously long and bright, have you had this problem?
That beast of a spider will throw up larger diffraction spikes which are really annoying. No wonder the scope is delivered with thin spiders even if that makes the secondary less stable. What you get with this new spider is a less contrasty star/planetary image image.
I'm so glad you embrace 'Newts, they have so much potential for tweaking and upgrades. I bought a Baader Steeltrack-NT for my Orion 8" f/3.9 astrograph. I will do a review of the RB Focus base when it arrives. It seems like the best solution for the light leaks around the focuser base. I truly enjoyed your Newt upgrades but wish you went into more detail regarding spiders. I have another comment that mentions 4 different replacement spiders that vary greatly! Some have a hood around the secondary, some incorporate a ring instead of loose vanes, one has integrated secondary heater, 3 or 4 collimation screws? What's your opinion?
In the end I'm happy with what I have, difficult to tell which I'd prefer! These days I'm thinking of getting a better focuser, but no idea what to actually take
FWIW: This comment on "CloudyNights" avoid the reduction in mirror diameter that the ring produces: "JimC #7 Replace primary mirror clips with silicon?: post #75u4 Posted 07 March 2012 - 06:31 PM One of the mirror clips on my XT8 broke, so decided to remove them & use 6 dabs of silicone on the back to hold the mirror to the cell instead. Haven't noticed any ill effects from the silicone. I've had a couple of other somewhat smaller scopes that had the primary attached with silicone & never had any issues, ie. DGM OA4 & 5.1 & a 4.25 Kutter. I recently decided to remove the XT8 mirror to send it in for a refigure. I used an .011 guitar string to slice through the silicone dabs. When I reinstall the refigured mirror, I'll use 3 dabs of silicone as 6 dabs was overkill IMO."
Yes I've seen others do that, it makes sense to me! But I'm too afraid to change this and in a lot of cases there are some imperfections at the mirror edge anyway
I love the idea of gluing a washer to the secondary holder. When I first removed my secondary mirror there was a dent caused by one of the 3 screws being over-tightened. This makes it difficult to fine tune the rotation of the secondary because the screw keeps pulling the holder back to the original position because of the dent.
Nice upgrades always wanted a imaging Newtonian, I saw an article long ago comparing a Apo refractor with a 8” GSO that made it tempting. One thing I wonder is if possible to have a tool less collimating screws for the secondary mirror. Something like bobs knobs for SCTs that allow you to tweak with hands rather than use a hex bolt or screwdriver that potentially could be dropped in scope or damage corrector plates.
To be honest, I'm not a big fan of Bob's Knobs, I get the feeling I can't tighten them enough to have collimation hold... But I see where you;re coming from!
6:27 I came to this video to watch the trimming of the clips. Video skips it, cuts, comes back, says "My clips have now been trimmed...." Does anyone know of a video that shows trimming of the scope primary mirror clips for installing the Backyard Universe Primary Mirror mask? Thais video is what came up when I searched. Thanks.
Sorry about that - the clips are rubber (or a rubber like material), and it was just cutting them with scissors until they were short enough to fit under the mirror mask
Must say I found the build quality of my 150P disappointing, but then again what can you expect for the price. The optics are fine. I have thought about upgrading, but decided against. Basically I just don't like Newtonians! Sky Watcher mounts and refractors seem to be of a much higher quality
im sorry but...i think you see what you would like to see....there is very subtle difference in the spikes after the mod (and only noticeable when you zoom in, which ofcourse you never do when you print out the picture)..but I get you, i would also want to see a major difference in my photos...but there is no real difference...sorry bro, you wasted Eu 200,- on something you could have easily done yourself
Don't be sorry since you are wrong :-) Large difference in spikes even without zooming in, and of course much easier and stable secondary collimation. So what's your deal, got up in a bad mood or something? Breathe deeply and relax!
Hi Cuiv, Thank you for this video, I'm debating (with myself :) ) between getting the SW 150P and the Celestron C6 as my next scope. Since you have experience with both, I wander if you could do a comparison video between them, mainly which issues you had to deal with in each case... Thank you, Daniel
I would have done the spider ‘ flat assembly while you had the main mirror out of the tube, then no possible way you could drop anything down on to the mirror. The three clips method of holding the main mirror is poor design, there are better ways to hold such a small mirror. A browse through ATM articles has a wealth of information on all these topics. Also on fast Newtonian optical systems the secondary mirror is displace away from the focuser and by a similar amount towards the primary. Such a displacement is not necessary with slower focal ratios, for example f/8. These points may well be too much effort required unless one is making the telescope from scratch. Plenty of reading on ATM articles that cover all these finer points. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🔭🇦🇺
Thanks Shevill you are absolutely right! Fortunately the offset is, as far as I understand it, "automatically" set as part of standard collimation - but it does make the collimation more complex. The Vixen R200SS collimation instructions actually make use of that offset to make collimation easier, makes me think that secondaries should also have an offset-corrected center point...
with all your precautions (gloves, mask etc etc) you still tilt the scope towards the sky and start unscrewing the spider...and then re-install it... every astronomer knows...always always level your scope so that when you drop screws or tools in the tube they dont hit the prim. mirror !!!!!....man, i was screaming at the screen when you did that
I had also discovered the CNC machined spider + aperture ring for myself about 3 months ago. Hope to see the Carbon 10" tube soon :P I use these updates on both of my newtons (6" + 8" inches). I can only confirm what @cuiv reports here, it improves the results of the images in a big way. Great products, for me by now a "must have". Thanks Cuiv for your video and greetings from Germany
Cuiv, I have loved watching you tinker with this telescope and it has made me want to fiddle with my scope, it's little cousin the 130p-ds. I love it, but it doesn't suffer from some of the same issues
As for the focuser, I got mine (UK) 3 months ago, and I had to wait for it to come back in stock (so almost certainly not an early batch), and it is the better focuser. So it still seems a bit of a mystery as to which ones have which focuser. Mine also seems to have arrived with better collimation, as I've not had to make the changes you did in the previous video, but the background appears flat anyway. It's almost like there are two completely different versions of this scope, and there's no way to tell which you're going to get. Given this, I think I'm going to stick with what I have for now, but the upgrade definitely looks like something I'll end up doing at some point in the future.
I’ve been using this spider on my 200P for a bit and it’s been great. My primary reason was to remove the issue of diverging diffraction spikes as mine were AWFUL and no amount of tweaking would solve the issue. I just want to say, I’ve had my scope setup outside for about two weeks of lots of imaging, slewing about all over the place for solar during the day and then 3 targets in Ursa Major and Canes Venatici. My collimation did slip very slightly, however I think it’s simply because I didn’t have my secondary collimation screws that tight. I’m also proud to say I actually got these stocked at FLO as BU couldn’t import to the UK for individual buyers.
omg for a lighweight 6 inch mirror you could have used a tube of silicone fish tank sealant to glue the primary to the cell using 3 blobs of the sealant about 15mm in diameter which would mean not using clips or the new mask so full aperature mirror
Hi Cuiv, I want to talk to you about spiders. and Newt upgrades. I like what you've done and I'm learning from you...thanks! I noticed that you complained about the weak focusers they throw onto most Newts but didn't replace it yet. Can we start there? I notice a growing admiration of the Baader Steeltrack-NT for Newts, even over Moonlight and Feathertouch! OK, so I bought one. I have a post on CN forum regarding light leaks around the OTA cutout around the focuser. I got over 70 views right away but not one response. Sounds like a common issue without a solution. One person on RUclips used the packing foam to fill the gap but I mentioned foam breaks down and could end up on the primary. I found a base from RB Focus in Spain that is made for a Skywatcher 200PDS Newtonian but they said it will fit my Orion 8" f/3.9 astrograph. Problem is, for a baseplate and a primary mask (including international shipping) I'm looking at $117 US. If you know any other options (and your opinion of the Steeltrack-NT) please let me know. OK, spiders...I don't hate my stock spider, but it could surely be improved. I see 4 options available: Starizona "spider-sw200 $219, ProtoStar "70023372(H) $140/$180 heated", RB Focus "carbon fiber double spider" $190, and Backyard Universe (milled aluminum spider" $209. Some have a ring instead of just legs, some are 3D printed, one is milled aluminum (the one you chose) some have a hood around the mirror, one is available with a dew heater pre-installed. Is the ring a better design than the loose arms? Whew! Well, it is your fault you know...remember "If it's not broke, fix it" yeah, that was you! LOL Anyhow, I love your RUclips channel...such a big-brain! Thanks so much for all you do.
Cuiv, I'm hoping to get your opinons...integrated ring or loose vanes? hood over the secondary? 3 or 4 collimation screws? Come on! you always have a no-BS opinion...What say you?
I'm so sorry, I'm not sure how I missed this! So unfortunately I don't know about the Baader Steeltrack, not about the light leaks around the focuser cutout... the CYCK cheap focuser doesn't change much here... I'd personally use electrician tape, but not sure... As for the spider vanes, I do like the one I got, the ring forces the tube to adopt the shape as well - I really have no idea about the others... sorry about that! However, secondary hood? I think it's useless. 3 collimation screws is also better imo for non-BS :)
Cuiv, I am so glad for you, that you went with the Backyard Universe upgrade kit. I have the 200PDS and this upgrade kid was one of the first things I changed and it totally enhanced my experience with this "low budget" newton. I still see some shadows in your stars but my guess is that this comes from the focuser that sticks into main tubus. I’ve just shortened mine and got now perfect results. Nevertheless, this upgrade is already a game changer in regards of contrast and overall quality - especially the collimation is now so stable which saves me a ton of time. Again, I am so glad you did this upgrade, enjoy it and always CS ❤
Yep, after the video I've adjusted the primary collimation screws so it is like 1cm deeper in the tube, so the focusing tube should protrude less! I'll be able to test once I get stars again!
Well, I'm not an expert BUT, @Cuive you SHOULD NOT unscrew anything having your newton in this position. Any single screw or so, can fall and hit directly your PM. Additionally you have your camera attached, so something can fall and hit the glass before sensor.. IMHO you should NOT teach people doing so, keep good habits first ;) Cheers!
I was more worried about the primary falling off in that position! All screws that were unscrewed while in this position were outside the tube so no risk to primary mirror or corrector (camera is behind corrector so no risk there!). I get your point though, thanks!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek you know, we (the black mass) are watching guys like you to learn. So let's keep up with good habits ;) About the subject - my newtonian (BM 203/1000) was cheaper than this fine tuning addon :DDD
I made the similar modifications on my 8" netwonian (f/5) over time. Especially the main mirror mask was a big change for me and lead to a lot better images. I can recommend those, but the secondary spider didn't change a lot for me.
Hi Cuiv, I live in a very humid country. Just wondering does a newtonian's mirrors grow mold over time? Otherwise, I may get the 250p quattro. There are no dry cabinets large enough for 250p's size.
Tokyo is very humid and for now I haven't seen mold on mirrors - I've often seen mold on corrector plates of second hand scopes though. It does feel like mirrors are fine, but I'm not 100% sure on this
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Makes sense. If mirrors are vulnerable to mold like glass surface on refractors and lenses, then the first thing we will see is our toilet mirrors will be full of mold by now. XD
I don't usually wear one obviously - as mentioned in the video I wore it to protect the optics as I didn't want to risk basically spraying saliva onto the optics while working and commenting at the same time! From long experience in Japan where masks have been very common for years and decades, and are a standard courtesy in many scenarios, I've never noticed it being more difficult to understand, but that's likely because I'm simply used to it!
Awesome review Cuiv, I have done a similar baffle mod which is manufactured by WEGA about a few months ago in my last video THE NEED FOR SPEED 2, and I can defo back up you here mate, that the baffle mod indeed really here is it does help to reduce the halos and extra spikes around stars and sharpens them quite alot. Thank you again that is another mod available and tmany thanks for highlighting that it can be fitted with the Quattro series, I will indeed try that secondary mod myself for my 8" Quattro, that CNC Secondary mod looks well built, I love to know where you got that shade surround for the secondary mirror, though I have already darkened the secondary miirror and fitted a dew band heater, it's not really needed me.
Thanks for this excellent video! This scope with the addons seems like a decent beginner astrograph. I imagine that the larger version is even better. It's a shame that they don't put a good stock focuser on it.
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Oh I understand the moonlites aren't cheap. It's a shame I sold my old dual speed focuser which wasn't to bad last year, would have sent it to you to try.
If I'm stating something already mentioned in the comments, sorry. SW didn't want to sell a $800 scope, as you questioned. They wanted to entice the bargain hunters. At a price most could afford. A decade ago I was going to buy an all in one setup for $500 ish. One needs to spend a lot of time doing careful research before wasting money on this hobby. I did, and my rig is about $4,000. I think that's fairly reasonable. You could cheep out, and in the long run waste a lot of money. I'm pretty handy, and could do what you have. Thanks to your free guidance others can too!
Cuiv, The Pixel Peeper 🤣 The constant collimation of newts is what has kept me from them. I want to just turn my rig on and kick off the sequence.. without having to do checks.. like collimation. I'm very interested in hearing how the collimation holds up over time with these mods. CS!
There is another very important upgrade of the budget Newton. Especially on old pipes, 5+ years old. This is a replacement for the adhesive on the diagonal mirror. It is especially critically manifested in the winter period by additional optical distortions. I personally re-glued it and replaced the old hardened glue, similar to epoxy resin, with double-sided tape with foam about 1-2 mm thick. Aberrations leave the image forever. And if the mask for the Primary Mirror were closer to its surface, then this would further reduce the fluffiness of the stars. You have it set at a distance of the thickness of the mirror clamps.
Thanks Volkov! While installing I had also noticed the secondary was not quite at a 45 degrees angle from the stem so was thinking about regluing it - what do you use to remove the original adhesive?
@@CuivTheLazyGeek I cut it off with an ordinary clerical knife, with a new blade, heated the mirror bracket itself with a construction hair dryer, it is metal, the temperature on the hair dryer was about 100 °, my hands were made of fabric gloves, since my mirror was covered with paint, then after cutting off the bracket I immediately got a mark where to glue to the old place, if the mirror was not painted with black paint, then pre-outline it before cutting, lay the mirror with the front part on the cotton fabric and tried not to move it relative to the fabric. They are not all glued perfectly and by and large it does not matter, 44-45-46 °, since when adjusting you still set it according to the geometry of the pipe, and they are also all curves, in the end it's just a matter of vignetting, with new flange on Touptek, reducing the working length to 12.5 mm, the question disappears by itself. But what is more important for alignment is the marking of the secondary diagonal mirror by the offset point. Write to Google Offset point of a diagonal mirror - there is a good article on this subject www.deepskywatch.com/Articles/replace-offset-collimate-secondary.html or www.otterstedt.de/atm/mynewton.workshop.fangspiegeloffsetberechnen.php
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Another nuance, just yesterday I shot a video on this topic, until I posted it on my channel. The question concerns this terrible focuser)) The tilt of the camera matrix, no matter how carefully we set it, changes depending on the sequence of clamping the two screws of the entire camera assembly with a coma corrector in the focuser. Having run in ASTAP in the inspector, I got the results of skew from 57% to 10% !!!! Moreover, changing the rotation of the camera in the focuser each time is a different sequence. It's just awful))) That is, the compression ring itself has a slight backlash, but this is enough for the entire assembly to change the slope of the matrix. So yes - a budget Newton is a guarantee to turn you into an optics mechanic.
Great video and thanks Cuiv. 2 questions. With the new spider how do you adjust the secondaries postion within the tube - I.e making sure it is central ? Have you done any work on establishing if the camera/coma corrector/focuser assembly causes the tube to distort and droops? I guess this would show up in collimation at different angles - maybe this is what was causing your loss of collimation over the night?
I've had that Backyard Universe kit bookmarked for a while now and after your review I talked to Michael at Backyard Universe about his Carbon tubes and he said he's had an enormous amount of requests since this video
As you say .. Do as you say, not as you do. The scope should be nose down when working on the spider/secondary. Working to remove or reattach the clips and primary mask you should cover the primary mirror. You need to make something freestanding that doesn't touch the mirror. It's tough to cover the entire mirror but at least the part near where you are working needs protection. From falling screws or screwdriver. Alternate idea: Put tbe mirror on a slanted surface so if a ,screw falls it won't hit the mirror
with you been in a city center you may get light reflecting through the rear of the tube...simple cap on the outside of the rear of the tube, if the tube diameter is 200mm for a six inch scope the inner cap mask should be 120mm so it overlaps the primary diameter
I have this scope with these mods and I am plagued with tilt ,also spacing at 55mm with my asi533 is out . Wasted so much precious little clear skies already trying to sort this out
Support me on Patreon!: www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek
Backyard Universe upgrade kit: tinyurl.com/3juwm5sz
Telescope link: bit.ly/3BABCxl
Flocking paper/Felt paper: amzn.to/3zASgvu or amzn.to/3m94zwa
Musou Black Pain: amzn.to/3MfYU0m
I'm pretty sure the motto for this hobby is, in fact, "it's ALWAYS broke, even if you've fixed it" 😂
Including me, I've been broke since I started with this hobby
Hahaha this is so depressingly true!!! As Fenice says, even us operators are always broke!
Or..."If it ain't broke, fix it until it is."
Keep fixing it until you are broke
lol. I hardly breathe while I'm near my mirrors. My first objective is to get my optics perfectly aligned, and then to stabilize the mounting. At the moment it flexes way too much. I have an old blue 200P f/5 that I picked up second hand. Future plans:
- Beef up all springs
- Add a coma corrector
- Replace the primary mirror (but I'll measure it first)
- Replace the secondary mirror assembly
Nice video again Cuiv.
I designed a bracket for my Celestron 8" Newtonian using FreeCAD and printed it on a 3D printer using PETG filament. I completely removed the old clips. The bracket I designed wraps around the mirror and securely holds it with just a 1.2-millimeter tab. The holding tabs of the clips are 5 millimeters long. As a result, there was no shrinkage on the surface of the mirror; in fact, the surface increased. To prevent the mirror from being damaged due to friction with the PETG bracket, I also designed a separate O-Ring and printed it using TPU filament.I would love to show you the photos, but unfortunately, I cannot upload pictures here.
Great, could you share the design by any chance? (btw, I Haven't met someone from Turkey that is into astrophotography till now, would like to chat with you).
A newtonian is normally open, so it's not needed. But if you ever need a "clean room" to handle mirrors or lenses you can get pretty close to it if you saturate your bathroom with vapor opening a hot shower for 2 minutes (just the air full of vapor, not enough for wet walls) and let it sit for a few minutes, the vapor will drag 99% of the dust in the air down with it.
Ooooh nice idea!! Thank you!
I was collimater and was having problems and dripped sweat off Mt forehead right down the tube onto primary mirror 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Noooooo! Hahaha that can happen indeed! So need both a mask and a headband lol
Great video. I’m buying the same mask and spider, but for my 200pds. Can’t wait to see the results.
Cuiv, I bought the Backyard-Universe CNC Spider for my GSO 150mm F/4 Newtonian, they do not have the mask yet, I cannot find the 3D printed website for the 63mm minor axis diagonal holder. Could you, please reveal where you found this part? Do you use Black 4.0 flat black paint? I flocked my 7" GSO steel tube and the thin metal spider vanes. Wow!~ what an improvement, great B&W ASI2600mm image of The Great Carina Nebula. Hopefully, the new CNC spider will produce an even better image.
Try contacting Backyard Universe about that part! They should be able to provide it to you!
I question you are lazy, but you are a true GEEK. You diligence, knowledge, and skill is amazing. Watching your videos on this scope makes me want one. The end price seems well justified.
Thank you so much!
Don’t know if you are short of ideas for videos. But I would really like your approach on things. If you could do a video on guiding. I know you talked about it before. But understanding pixel scale and rms with different range scope and guide scopes. Even OAG is not exactly the same. Like here is something that confuses me if I change guide scopes with the same camera why do it seem my mount gives the same rms. But I know the tracking is different. What effect rms and how to improve it along with tracking results. Pixel scale vs rms. Example .5 rms with a 5 to 1 ratio vs .3 rms for a 7 to ratio. What is better. Lol. I don’t know. We need you to deep dive. Please. And why to we need you to do it. Because we are lazier then you. Lol.
That's actually a great idea, thanks for the suggestion!
THANK YOU! it's a wonderful video.
I also have this model. but how do you adjust the 0.4mm offset?
Do you have to tighten the screws as you did with the original spider?
Thanks for this vid. I’ve been thinking of doing the same upgrade on mine. However, the focuser in this thing is really s!*t. Not good for astrophotography.
Yes that focuser is terrible, although weirdly enough it's currently working very reliably with the EAF! We'll see how long that keeps working!
It's infuriating you buy an item then have to spend MORE money in order for it to work properly, this reeks of dishonest practises
To be fair I think I demonstrated in the last video that with just a time investment you can get really good results out of it! Here we're going into incremental improvements really :-)
And it does remind me that many fracs don't come with the flattener needed to make them usable imaging machines :-)
You said that this modification is not in keeping with your laziness. I would argue the opposite, as you won't have to constantly recollimate your scope.
Thanks Sam, you're actually right :) but it's more fun to pretend it isn't hehe
Maybe change your channel’s name to Cuiv the Improvising Geek 😂
Hahaha yes!
The cheapest way to get this mask is 3D printing) even for 10”)
For sure! Although if you don't want to design it and you want to make sure the borders are very smooth and the color is nice and matte, it may make sense to just buy it :-)
I don't understand how the rubber clamps could bend/pinch a 1in+ thick glass mirror and deform it. When the newt slews around, the mirror could lift off it's base and not reset to the same spot, ruining collimation during a planed object change. To me, it seems leaving a small space (even paper thin) would cause issues. Can someone explain?
Yep it kind of confuses me as well, but even microns of deformation will have an impact!
As a guy who has built a bunch of newts.....if you are thinking of doing this mod to your scope, install the secondary and spider BEFORE you put the primary mirror back in the scope! No chance to drop it on the primary that way. I almost had a heart attack, lol.
Thank you!!
Hi. Your videos are very good. I see your setup and I think how did you balance your setup? I see camera, focuser…everything is ahead…if I did the same my set up …turn left alone…🤦♂️
Yeah the balance is terrible - would really need to do 3D balancing
@@CuivTheLazyGeek 3D balance? What do you mean with that? Mmmm I‘ m not I am sure I got it. Did you do a video about that? (Many thanks!)
C’est très étrange de t’entendre en Français, autrement que par ton accent en Anglais 😁 Keep walking Cuiv’ !
Hahaha merci David!
I have SW 130pds and focuser is really hell.
Seems to also it is off balance simlarly like SW EQ3-2 mount...
Also recommending buying new.
I got both from Telescope Service for my 203mm newt for the cheap price of 400 Euro (shipping included)
What happened to the AM5. If you liked it start a go fund me for it. I’ll contribute
I bought it! Thanks for the offer though!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek good move I love it
I got the better focuser on mine, I ordered it a few months ago. I checked the site I ordered it from and its still listed with the same focuser so theyre still shipping it with the better one.
That's great to hear! Glad (and jealous) you got the better focuser!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Thanks, I forgot to say that I love your series on that scope, I didn't even realise that the collimation could be so out of place, so I 3D printed my own collimation cap and realised how crooked everything was! I didn't even notice since I've only ever used a laser collimator. My secondary mirror was so far up the tube that the upper edge was just out of sight in the focuser tube when looking through the collimation cap. I centered it and readjusted its rotation. Everything is now close to perfectly centered I think, just waiting for a clear night to test it out and see if it has made a difference. It also took me like 2 hours to get it right though.
Very interesting! I was considering gluing the mirror with a non-hardening silicone sealant as a mask takes a bit away from your clear aperture. Obviously this is for small mirrors (130-150mm)
I have now 3d printed a mirror mask for my PDS150 from Skywatcher. The Spider have replaced two days ago with a similar one like you show in the video. Mine is from Aliexpress as I don't want to invest too much into the PDS150. Unfortunately minimum the next one to two following weeks are going to be cloudy in my area.
Did you test the spider without the flocking on the vains? I have the flocking material received seperately but I did not know until watching your video for the second time now where it should be put.
I hope that I am going to test my super-charged New't soon. 😊
Excellent video; like all the others, very educational. I also have a Nw150/600, but besides having to add the accessories you show in this video, I have to change the focuser, it's not very good, it works with friction; if I adjust it too much, the electronic EOF doesn't move it; if I unadjust it just a little, the coma corrector + the camera + the filter grid fall down. Do you have any advice on good focusers?
I’m a year late, but dealing with the people at “backyard Universe” was great! Super nice and helpful, even to an annoying American like me lol. Thanks for these helpful tips!
And so the transformation begins.... Cuiv The 'Not So Lazy" Geek🤣.
I'm getting a bad COVID vibe from that face mask...
You took a below average newt and made it great with a couple hundred bucks. That's great, but you still have some diffraction spikes, even if sharper and shorter. Why not use a Newt with a corrector plate instead of a spider, such as a Schmidt/Mak Newtonian?
I don’t own an imaging Newtonian but I’ve been interested in getting one lately. This series on converting your cheap newt into a premium astrograph has been excellent for me to learn all of the ins and outs of how they are constructed and what parts to keep an eye on. Thank you very much! You’re a gem in the community and I have fun/learn every time you upload! I also want to fight you because my bank account is going to drop another $1000 after I do this for myself 😂. Clear skies from New York!
I thought the point of the mirror mask was to exclude light from the edges of the mirror, which on cheap ones might be the most imprecise ("rolled down edges"), not to hide the clips ? The thin spider vanes on the SW scopes are supposed to be a feature - .5mm thickness compared to 1.8mm thickness of CNC ones, but I think this is only marginal as the light blockage is only increased by 0.5% by the thicker ones. Not sure why you need a 3mm thick CNC mirror mask. DIY ones are made of thin plastic and sit against the mirror. I always thought the visible clips are also useful as collimation aids to check the secondary is central, so trimming off the clips removes this ? Not convinced by your "results". Jury out on this upgrade, but nice to see someone testing it. Thanks for showing this.
Hi Cuiv! I am based in New Zealand and have the same scope, and unfortunately have the same focuser issues you have. If you upgrade - what sort of focuser are you looking at? Also, you make great content!
Molto interessante!!!
Una domanda: come gestisci la condensa sullo specchio secondario???
For now I haven't seen my secondary condense - and apparently the 3D printed secondary shroud can help avoid that!
Grazie 🙏
Many thanks!
I did it !! I upgraded my telescope! But i am not sure about the distance has to be between the secondary miror and the spider. I don't know how much I should tighten the central screw.
Do you have any advice?.
Very nice video again!!!
Love the passing ‘Contact’ reference - ‘small moves Ellie’!
I'm so glad so many caught this - I love Contact :)
Oh mate, I love it!!! - This is an excellent video, so well recorded & explained! :-D Tremendous work my friend!
Thanks so much Luke!!
Ive been looking into getitng one of the secondary mirror holders for my 130pds but looking around the diffraction spikes seem to be ludicrously long and bright, have you had this problem?
Very good. Could you, s'il te plaît, tell me how to find the correct rotation of the secondary mirror?
Great video cuiv. So, what would be the alternatve to a better 6 inches f/4 reflector below USD800? Not a big fan of going to all this work
That beast of a spider will throw up larger diffraction spikes which are really annoying. No wonder the scope is delivered with thin spiders even if that makes the secondary less stable. What you get with this new spider is a less contrasty star/planetary image image.
Based on the costs and frustrations of the upgrades, might just make more sense to just initially purchase a better scope?
True - but the good ones are still far more expensive than this, so it's up to each!
Felt or flat black paint over the primary mirror mounting screws helps tremendously
I like the dew shield, do you have any details on it, is it 3d printed?, if so is the STL file available? Great videos
I'm so glad you embrace 'Newts, they have so much potential for tweaking and upgrades. I bought a Baader Steeltrack-NT for my Orion 8" f/3.9 astrograph. I will do a review of the RB Focus base when it arrives. It seems like the best solution for the light leaks around the focuser base. I truly enjoyed your Newt upgrades but wish you went into more detail regarding spiders. I have another comment that mentions 4 different replacement spiders that vary greatly! Some have a hood around the secondary, some incorporate a ring instead of loose vanes, one has integrated secondary heater, 3 or 4 collimation screws? What's your opinion?
In the end I'm happy with what I have, difficult to tell which I'd prefer! These days I'm thinking of getting a better focuser, but no idea what to actually take
Another great video, Cuiv! Be sure and let us know how well the collimation holds after you get a chance to use it for a while. Thanks!
Will do!
FWIW: This comment on "CloudyNights" avoid the reduction in mirror diameter that the ring produces:
"JimC
#7 Replace primary mirror clips with silicon?: post #75u4
Posted 07 March 2012 - 06:31 PM
One of the mirror clips on my XT8 broke, so decided to remove them & use 6 dabs of silicone on the back to hold the mirror to the cell instead. Haven't noticed any ill effects from the silicone. I've had a couple of other somewhat smaller scopes that had the primary attached with silicone & never had any issues, ie. DGM OA4 & 5.1 & a 4.25 Kutter. I recently decided to remove the XT8 mirror to send it in for a refigure. I used an .011 guitar string to slice through the silicone dabs. When I reinstall the refigured mirror, I'll use 3 dabs of silicone as 6 dabs was overkill IMO."
Yes I've seen others do that, it makes sense to me! But I'm too afraid to change this and in a lot of cases there are some imperfections at the mirror edge anyway
I cant understand why primary mirrors are not bonded onto a backplate. Seems to make more sense to me
I love the idea of gluing a washer to the secondary holder. When I first removed my secondary mirror there was a dent caused by one of the 3 screws being over-tightened. This makes it difficult to fine tune the rotation of the secondary because the screw keeps pulling the holder back to the original position because of the dent.
Nice upgrades always wanted a imaging Newtonian, I saw an article long ago comparing a Apo refractor with a 8” GSO that made it tempting. One thing I wonder is if possible to have a tool less collimating screws for the secondary mirror. Something like bobs knobs for SCTs that allow you to tweak with hands rather than use a hex bolt or screwdriver that potentially could be dropped in scope or damage corrector plates.
To be honest, I'm not a big fan of Bob's Knobs, I get the feeling I can't tighten them enough to have collimation hold... But I see where you;re coming from!
6:27 I came to this video to watch the trimming of the clips. Video skips it, cuts, comes back, says "My clips have now been trimmed...."
Does anyone know of a video that shows trimming of the scope primary mirror clips for installing the Backyard Universe Primary Mirror mask? Thais video is what came up when I searched. Thanks.
Sorry about that - the clips are rubber (or a rubber like material), and it was just cutting them with scissors until they were short enough to fit under the mirror mask
Must say I found the build quality of my 150P disappointing, but then again what can you expect for the price. The optics are fine. I have thought about upgrading, but decided against. Basically I just don't like Newtonians! Sky Watcher mounts and refractors seem to be of a much higher quality
Completely understand!
im sorry but...i think you see what you would like to see....there is very subtle difference in the spikes after the mod (and only noticeable when you zoom in, which ofcourse you never do when you print out the picture)..but I get you, i would also want to see a major difference in my photos...but there is no real difference...sorry bro, you wasted Eu 200,- on something you could have easily done yourself
Don't be sorry since you are wrong :-) Large difference in spikes even without zooming in, and of course much easier and stable secondary collimation. So what's your deal, got up in a bad mood or something? Breathe deeply and relax!
8:06 love the contact reference, I just picked up a GSO version, I think these parts can be used on it.
Check with Backyard Universe just in case! And I love how so many got the reference!
Hi Cuiv,
Thank you for this video, I'm debating (with myself :) ) between getting the SW 150P and the Celestron C6 as my next scope.
Since you have experience with both, I wander if you could do a comparison video between them, mainly which issues you had to deal with in each case...
Thank you,
Daniel
Something I'll get to at some point :-)
I would have done the spider ‘ flat assembly while you had the main mirror out of the tube, then no possible way you could drop anything down on to the mirror. The three clips method of holding the main mirror is poor design, there are better ways to hold such a small mirror. A browse through ATM articles has a wealth of information on all these topics. Also on fast Newtonian optical systems the secondary mirror is displace away from the focuser and by a similar amount towards the primary. Such a displacement is not necessary with slower focal ratios, for example f/8. These points may well be too much effort required unless one is making the telescope from scratch. Plenty of reading on ATM articles that cover all these finer points. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🔭🇦🇺
Thanks Shevill you are absolutely right! Fortunately the offset is, as far as I understand it, "automatically" set as part of standard collimation - but it does make the collimation more complex.
The Vixen R200SS collimation instructions actually make use of that offset to make collimation easier, makes me think that secondaries should also have an offset-corrected center point...
with all your precautions (gloves, mask etc etc) you still tilt the scope towards the sky and start unscrewing the spider...and then re-install it... every astronomer knows...always always level your scope so that when you drop screws or tools in the tube they dont hit the prim. mirror !!!!!....man, i was screaming at the screen when you did that
I think you need to relax a little bit here - the free screws were on the outside of the tube, no risk of anything falling onto the primary mirror.
I had also discovered the CNC machined spider + aperture ring for myself about 3 months ago. Hope to see the Carbon 10" tube soon :P
I use these updates on both of my newtons (6" + 8" inches).
I can only confirm what @cuiv reports here, it improves the results of the images in a big way.
Great products, for me by now a "must have".
Thanks Cuiv for your video and greetings from Germany
Thanks for the further feedback!! Great to know!
Cuiv, I have loved watching you tinker with this telescope and it has made me want to fiddle with my scope, it's little cousin the 130p-ds. I love it, but it doesn't suffer from some of the same issues
Don't forget to not fix it if it ain't broke? Haha
Dammit Cuiv!! Now I have to break out my wallet again and make myself poorer because I must have this for my newt 😩 lol
Hahahaha I'm so sorry Danny :)
As for the focuser, I got mine (UK) 3 months ago, and I had to wait for it to come back in stock (so almost certainly not an early batch), and it is the better focuser. So it still seems a bit of a mystery as to which ones have which focuser. Mine also seems to have arrived with better collimation, as I've not had to make the changes you did in the previous video, but the background appears flat anyway. It's almost like there are two completely different versions of this scope, and there's no way to tell which you're going to get.
Given this, I think I'm going to stick with what I have for now, but the upgrade definitely looks like something I'll end up doing at some point in the future.
Very interesting! It really is a mystery, and it's really annoying too! Glad you got a good sample!
I’ve been using this spider on my 200P for a bit and it’s been great. My primary reason was to remove the issue of diverging diffraction spikes as mine were AWFUL and no amount of tweaking would solve the issue.
I just want to say, I’ve had my scope setup outside for about two weeks of lots of imaging, slewing about all over the place for solar during the day and then 3 targets in Ursa Major and Canes Venatici. My collimation did slip very slightly, however I think it’s simply because I didn’t have my secondary collimation screws that tight.
I’m also proud to say I actually got these stocked at FLO as BU couldn’t import to the UK for individual buyers.
Awesome, well done on getting those at FLO!!
Is that a bahtinov mask you are wearing in the thumbnail?
And... I was wondering why the mask that shows n the thumbnail for the video... good idea, as we ALL should have a supply of them these days!
If I'm not talking I think it's fine without a mask, but when actively talking/explaining while handling mirrors I thought it was better :D
I don’t have a Newtonian anymore but I still really enjoyed watching this :) great video as always 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Christian!
Hands-on Cuiv, the new you. Very interesting project and I do like the result. I vote for the cost being well worth it to get a better image.
Thanks Rick, and thanks for your support!!
... and Cuiv renames the channel to "Cuiv, Not So Lazy Geek" 😅
Ooooh yeah maybe lol
Hey Quiv why is your focuser and camera on the underside off your scope? Mine is on the top side and works great and can balance it perfectly.
Weight closer to the RA rotation axis -> can keep counterweights closer to the axis as well :)
I don't even have one of these but felt the need to watch it all, lol. Interesting watch, thanks
Glad you enjoyed despite it not being relevant to you :D
imagine how cheap this telescope is to produce per unit
omg for a lighweight 6 inch mirror you could have used a tube of silicone fish tank sealant to glue the primary to the cell using 3 blobs of the sealant about 15mm in diameter which would mean not using clips or the new mask so full aperature mirror
The edges of the mirror are a bit rough though, so you'd ideally still want a mask!
Hi Cuiv, I want to talk to you about spiders. and Newt upgrades. I like what you've done and I'm learning from you...thanks! I noticed that you complained about the weak focusers they throw onto most Newts but didn't replace it yet. Can we start there? I notice a growing admiration of the Baader Steeltrack-NT for Newts, even over Moonlight and Feathertouch! OK, so I bought one. I have a post on CN forum regarding light leaks around the OTA cutout around the focuser. I got over 70 views right away but not one response. Sounds like a common issue without a solution. One person on RUclips used the packing foam to fill the gap but I mentioned foam breaks down and could end up on the primary. I found a base from RB Focus in Spain that is made for a Skywatcher 200PDS Newtonian but they said it will fit my Orion 8" f/3.9 astrograph. Problem is, for a baseplate and a primary mask (including international shipping) I'm looking at $117 US. If you know any other options (and your opinion of the Steeltrack-NT) please let me know.
OK, spiders...I don't hate my stock spider, but it could surely be improved. I see 4 options available: Starizona "spider-sw200 $219, ProtoStar "70023372(H) $140/$180 heated", RB Focus "carbon fiber double spider" $190, and Backyard Universe (milled aluminum spider" $209. Some have a ring instead of just legs, some are 3D printed, one is milled aluminum (the one you chose) some have a hood around the mirror, one is available with a dew heater pre-installed. Is the ring a better design than the loose arms? Whew! Well, it is your fault you know...remember "If it's not broke, fix it" yeah, that was you! LOL Anyhow, I love your RUclips channel...such a big-brain! Thanks so much for all you do.
Cuiv, I'm hoping to get your opinons...integrated ring or loose vanes? hood over the secondary? 3 or 4 collimation screws? Come on! you always have a no-BS opinion...What say you?
I'm so sorry, I'm not sure how I missed this! So unfortunately I don't know about the Baader Steeltrack, not about the light leaks around the focuser cutout... the CYCK cheap focuser doesn't change much here... I'd personally use electrician tape, but not sure... As for the spider vanes, I do like the one I got, the ring forces the tube to adopt the shape as well - I really have no idea about the others... sorry about that!
However, secondary hood? I think it's useless. 3 collimation screws is also better imo for non-BS :)
Cuiv, I am so glad for you, that you went with the Backyard Universe upgrade kit. I have the 200PDS and this upgrade kid was one of the first things I changed and it totally enhanced my experience with this "low budget" newton. I still see some shadows in your stars but my guess is that this comes from the focuser that sticks into main tubus. I’ve just shortened mine and got now perfect results. Nevertheless, this upgrade is already a game changer in regards of contrast and overall quality - especially the collimation is now so stable which saves me a ton of time. Again, I am so glad you did this upgrade, enjoy it and always CS ❤
Yep, after the video I've adjusted the primary collimation screws so it is like 1cm deeper in the tube, so the focusing tube should protrude less! I'll be able to test once I get stars again!
ohh nice, i have a skywatcher with those random glare star defractions, i'll try covering the clips
Good luck!!
Well, I'm not an expert BUT, @Cuive you SHOULD NOT unscrew anything having your newton in this position. Any single screw or so, can fall and hit directly your PM. Additionally you have your camera attached, so something can fall and hit the glass before sensor..
IMHO you should NOT teach people doing so, keep good habits first ;)
Cheers!
I was more worried about the primary falling off in that position! All screws that were unscrewed while in this position were outside the tube so no risk to primary mirror or corrector (camera is behind corrector so no risk there!). I get your point though, thanks!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek you know, we (the black mass) are watching guys like you to learn. So let's keep up with good habits ;)
About the subject - my newtonian (BM 203/1000) was cheaper than this fine tuning addon :DDD
I made the similar modifications on my 8" netwonian (f/5) over time. Especially the main mirror mask was a big change for me and lead to a lot better images. I can recommend those, but the secondary spider didn't change a lot for me.
Plus the mirror mask is cheap!
Hi Cuiv, I live in a very humid country. Just wondering does a newtonian's mirrors grow mold over time? Otherwise, I may get the 250p quattro. There are no dry cabinets large enough for 250p's size.
Tokyo is very humid and for now I haven't seen mold on mirrors - I've often seen mold on corrector plates of second hand scopes though. It does feel like mirrors are fine, but I'm not 100% sure on this
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Makes sense. If mirrors are vulnerable to mold like glass surface on refractors and lenses, then the first thing we will see is our toilet mirrors will be full of mold by now. XD
Interesting product I wonder if they have one for a 250P?
Looks like they do! www.backyard-universe.de/en/p/upgrade-set-sw250-secondary-spider-and-primary-mirror-mask
Thanks for this series on this telescope. I have been considering buying it my self and your videos are helping me make up my mind
My pleasure Mark! If you're willing and able to spend time on it, it can be a great scope!
Can you please remove the mask while you talk, it makes it harder to understand you.
I don't usually wear one obviously - as mentioned in the video I wore it to protect the optics as I didn't want to risk basically spraying saliva onto the optics while working and commenting at the same time!
From long experience in Japan where masks have been very common for years and decades, and are a standard courtesy in many scenarios, I've never noticed it being more difficult to understand, but that's likely because I'm simply used to it!
Cuiv how thick is the spider vanes
Great video! Inspiring me to add the mirror stop to my Astro-tech 6in. The first thing I did was upgrade the focuser.
Thanks John! Surprisingly for now the focuser is working pretty well with the EAF haha but I'm sure it will break down over time
Awesome review Cuiv, I have done a similar baffle mod which is manufactured by WEGA about a few months ago in my last video THE NEED FOR SPEED 2, and I can defo back up you here mate, that the baffle mod indeed really here is it does help to reduce the halos and extra spikes around stars and sharpens them quite alot. Thank you again that is another mod available and tmany thanks for highlighting that it can be fitted with the Quattro series, I will indeed try that secondary mod myself for my 8" Quattro, that CNC Secondary mod looks well built, I love to know where you got that shade surround for the secondary mirror, though I have already darkened the secondary miirror and fitted a dew band heater, it's not really needed me.
How will performance that OTA go with an OAG?
I would assume it would work fine !
Love it! I am seriously considering ordering this kit for my scope.
Time will tell how well it works but for now I'm happy with it!
Thanks for this excellent video! This scope with the addons seems like a decent beginner astrograph. I imagine that the larger version is even better. It's a shame that they don't put a good stock focuser on it.
Completely agree!
Cuiv the hardest working lazy geek.
Yeah, not so lazy anymore!
I mentioned it in one of your earlier videos. Have a look at the Moonlite focusers. All CNC machined and solid. I have one on my 150PDS
I've used Moonlite in the past :) But I want to hold on to this cheap focuser for now
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Oh I understand the moonlites aren't cheap. It's a shame I sold my old dual speed focuser which wasn't to bad last year, would have sent it to you to try.
If I'm stating something already mentioned in the comments, sorry. SW didn't want to sell a $800 scope, as you questioned. They wanted to entice the bargain hunters. At a price most could afford. A decade ago I was going to buy an all in one setup for $500 ish. One needs to spend a lot of time doing careful research before wasting money on this hobby. I did, and my rig is about $4,000. I think that's fairly reasonable. You could cheep out, and in the long run waste a lot of money. I'm pretty handy, and could do what you have. Thanks to your free guidance others can too!
Bonsoir Cuiv, est ce que cette araignée est différente de celle d’Artesky ?
J'imagine que oui!
Cuiv, The Pixel Peeper 🤣
The constant collimation of newts is what has kept me from them. I want to just turn my rig on and kick off the sequence.. without having to do checks.. like collimation. I'm very interested in hearing how the collimation holds up over time with these mods. CS!
As a wise man once said; "If it ain't broke, it's still broke". Or something like that. That's just life with hardware :^)
Do you think this can fit also a TS Optics Photon 6" F/4?
That I don't know, you should check with Backyard Universe!
There is another very important upgrade of the budget Newton. Especially on old pipes, 5+ years old. This is a replacement for the adhesive on the diagonal mirror. It is especially critically manifested in the winter period by additional optical distortions. I personally re-glued it and replaced the old hardened glue, similar to epoxy resin, with double-sided tape with foam about 1-2 mm thick. Aberrations leave the image forever. And if the mask for the Primary Mirror were closer to its surface, then this would further reduce the fluffiness of the stars. You have it set at a distance of the thickness of the mirror clamps.
Thanks Volkov! While installing I had also noticed the secondary was not quite at a 45 degrees angle from the stem so was thinking about regluing it - what do you use to remove the original adhesive?
The ultimate would be for the mirror mask to be the hold down clip as well, perhaps new clips could be 3d printed and glued/screwed onto the mask.
@@CuivTheLazyGeek I cut it off with an ordinary clerical knife, with a new blade, heated the mirror bracket itself with a construction hair dryer, it is metal, the temperature on the hair dryer was about 100 °, my hands were made of fabric gloves, since my mirror was covered with paint, then after cutting off the bracket I immediately got a mark where to glue to the old place, if the mirror was not painted with black paint, then pre-outline it before cutting, lay the mirror with the front part on the cotton fabric and tried not to move it relative to the fabric. They are not all glued perfectly and by and large it does not matter, 44-45-46 °, since when adjusting you still set it according to the geometry of the pipe, and they are also all curves, in the end it's just a matter of vignetting, with new flange on Touptek, reducing the working length to 12.5 mm, the question disappears by itself. But what is more important for alignment is the marking of the secondary diagonal mirror by the offset point. Write to Google Offset point of a diagonal mirror - there is a good article on this subject www.deepskywatch.com/Articles/replace-offset-collimate-secondary.html or www.otterstedt.de/atm/mynewton.workshop.fangspiegeloffsetberechnen.php
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Another nuance, just yesterday I shot a video on this topic, until I posted it on my channel. The question concerns this terrible focuser)) The tilt of the camera matrix, no matter how carefully we set it, changes depending on the sequence of clamping the two screws of the entire camera assembly with a coma corrector in the focuser. Having run in ASTAP in the inspector, I got the results of skew from 57% to 10% !!!! Moreover, changing the rotation of the camera in the focuser each time is a different sequence. It's just awful))) That is, the compression ring itself has a slight backlash, but this is enough for the entire assembly to change the slope of the matrix. So yes - a budget Newton is a guarantee to turn you into an optics mechanic.
Great video and thanks Cuiv.
2 questions. With the new spider how do you adjust the secondaries postion within the tube - I.e making sure it is central ?
Have you done any work on establishing if the camera/coma corrector/focuser assembly causes the tube to distort and droops? I guess this would show up in collimation at different angles - maybe this is what was causing your loss of collimation over the night?
I've had that Backyard Universe kit bookmarked for a while now and after your review I talked to Michael at Backyard Universe about his Carbon tubes and he said he's had an enormous amount of requests since this video
Hahaha I hope I didn't overload him!!
If you buy the tube and the rest, feel like you don't need Skywatcher.
As you say .. Do as you say, not as you do.
The scope should be nose down when working on the spider/secondary.
Working to remove or reattach the clips and primary mask you should cover the primary mirror.
You need to make something freestanding that doesn't touch the mirror. It's tough to cover the entire mirror but at least the part near where you are working needs protection. From falling screws or screwdriver.
Alternate idea:
Put tbe mirror on a slanted surface so if a ,screw falls it won't hit the mirror
with you been in a city center you may get light reflecting through the rear of the tube...simple cap on the outside of the rear of the tube, if the tube diameter is 200mm for a six inch scope the inner cap mask should be 120mm so it overlaps the primary diameter
Amazeballs!!!!!
I want something that plugs/ insulates those light leaks at the edges of the primary mirror cell.
I have this scope with these mods and I am plagued with tilt ,also spacing at 55mm with my asi533 is out . Wasted so much precious little clear skies already trying to sort this out
Tilt at which element? I'm now getting perfect stars throughout my APS-C size sensor
@@CuivTheLazyGeek not sure yet, I do know that the 533 was fine with my 130pds
@@CuivTheLazyGeek at 55mm?