The algo sent me here but, as a non-modeller, I don't know why. That said, I'm now avidly following this series and have visited other rubber powered flight sites now too; it's a fascinating, exact hobby! In this episode you described the model as a 'Wakefield' and I wondered what that meant? Thanks.
@@Buckr0ger5 Thank you, pleased you enjoyed the video, here is a link to the heat gun - www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P31K83F?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Hi Mark , Great tutorial on covering, thank you. I have heard of people using bleach applied with cotton to remove laser cutting marks. Please, as with everything else in this hobby, test first. Thanks again, Michael
I've used mylar and clear film for my free flight rubber models but I've never heard of the laminating film. Doest has glue over the entire interior surface make it heavier?
Im really interested to see how tissue on top of laminate works. I tend to vinyl wrap over laminate. If tissue gives a good surface for painting it could change the game for me
Mark, you mentioned using acrylic paint to cover the wood burn marks at the trailing edge. What paint is it and what is the colour called? Regards David
Mark, Early in the video, you mentioned drilling a hole in the web in the wing root to allow inside pressure and outside pressure to equalise. Did you drill these before you shrank the film with the air gun? Regards David
Always good to have a hole in the ribs to alow the air to move within the wing before covering, but also to allow the air after covering to normalise with the outside presure, hence if you leave in a hot car it dose not expand
Hi Mark, nice job. After you shrink the covering with the hot air gun do you ever go back and stick the covering to the ribs? Do you use the same hot air technique with orocover, that is not sticking in to the ribs. --thanks for the video!
Hey, Mark
I always have fun agonizing over new color combinations and layouts. Let's see what you come up with for this one.
Blue skies!
Great video Mark, I always learn something from you 👍🏼
Thanks very much, really pleased you enjoy the videos
Thank you Mark for an excellent tutorial on applying this covering. Cheers!
Your welcome, really pleased you enjoyed the videos, thanks for the comment
The algo sent me here but, as a non-modeller, I don't know why. That said, I'm now avidly following this series and have visited other rubber powered flight sites now too; it's a fascinating, exact hobby! In this episode you described the model as a 'Wakefield' and I wondered what that meant? Thanks.
Welcome aboard, hope you are enjoying the videos, thanks for the comment. There is a Wakefield competition and this fits the criteria for it. 😀
@MarkRobinson555 Thanks Mark, I appreciate the clarifying comment!
Hi Mark, nice job. Always some new small tips from your videos. 🙂
Glad you enjoyed the video, pleased you fould it helpful
Another great informative video Mark Thank you. Please will you post a link for your adjustable heat gun
@@Buckr0ger5 Thank you, pleased you enjoyed the video, here is a link to the heat gun - www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P31K83F?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Hi Mark , Great tutorial on covering, thank you. I have heard of people using bleach applied with cotton to remove laser cutting marks. Please, as with everything else in this hobby, test first. Thanks again, Michael
Thanks very much for the comment and suggestion, greatly appreciated. Ppleased you enjoyed the video
Great video Mark I learnt a lot of new tricks. Could you please supply details of the laminating film eg type thickness etc.
Thanks for the comment, pleased you enjoyed the video, this is the film that I use - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303
@@MarkRobinson555 thank you.
Your welcome 😀
NICE!
Hi Norm, pleased you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment
I've used mylar and clear film for my free flight rubber models but I've never heard of the laminating film. Doest has glue over the entire interior surface make it heavier?
It is slightly heavier than mylar, but on models of this size its not an issue 😀
Im really interested to see how tissue on top of laminate works. I tend to vinyl wrap over laminate. If tissue gives a good surface for painting it could change the game for me
Looks brilliant, could you tell me the make of laminating film you used and where you bought it please?
This is what I use, hope it helps - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183793543303
@@MarkRobinson555 Thanks a lot Mark
@@stephenrose937 you are welcome 😀
Mark, you mentioned using acrylic paint to cover the wood burn marks at the trailing edge. What paint is it and what is the colour called? Regards David
It was a Vallejo model color - Light Flesh 70.928, hope that helps
Another great tip. Thanks David
Mark, Early in the video, you mentioned drilling a hole in the web in the wing root to allow inside pressure and outside pressure to equalise. Did you drill these before you shrank the film with the air gun? Regards David
Always good to have a hole in the ribs to alow the air to move within the wing before covering, but also to allow the air after covering to normalise with the outside presure, hence if you leave in a hot car it dose not expand
liked!
Thanks for the visit
Hi Mark, nice job. After you shrink the covering with the hot air gun do you ever go back and stick the covering to the ribs? Do you use the same hot air technique with orocover, that is not sticking in to the ribs. --thanks for the video!
No, I dont go back and stick it to the ribs as you sugges, don't feel there is a need, same with oracover. Pleased you enjoyed the video
Hi Mark,
Doculam is not sold in Belgium.
Do you know an alternative brand that we can order here?
Shipping from England is expensive.
Greetings
If you search just for "Laminating Film 38 micron" I am sure you will find somthing suitable, its a worldwide product - good luck