6V is fine. The tsop 1738 receiver is rated for 5V max. I suggest using a 7805 regulator, or find out how much current the circuit draws using 5V, then use a resistor in line with your higher power supple to limit the voltage/current to the circuit. For the relay, just use one rated for the voltage you want to use.
This circuit will work fine for both 110v and 220v appliances(DEPENDING where you live). What is important is that you have a LINE and NEUTRAL to produce the 220V. If you do not, then one leg will always be hot as in the USA where 220V consists of (2) 110V lines, not (1) 220v line and a neutral to complete the circuit.
If you remove the connection in the schematic from the relay to the +5V red line, and connect it to a 12V power supply instead, that would work. The rest of the circuit would be powered by a 7805 VREG. Make sure the input and output of the Vreg has a small capacitor on them both to ground. Use like a 104/.1 uf.
No. Open up your relay and try removing 1/2 the copper windings from the relay coil and solder it back. The wire is VERY thin, so do it carefully. You may also have to weaken the spring in the relay to get it to close after the mod. Simple to do, otherwise buy a 5v or 6v relay.
@Smk161191 Make sure you have the proper IR receiver. Also make sure the wires are on the correct pins. Might have to swap the wires to the pins around. There is no PCB layout. I did it all by hand.
Just to make question simpler I want to put a third led in this circuit and I want this third led to be on all the time, not like the red or green led. Where would be the best place to put the third led?
Nice video and very simple schematic. I have a relay of 12vdc for 240v 5A. With this schematic can I use this 12v relay for 12vdc led lights, in stead of 240vac appliances? Well, for TSOP1738 part of the circuit I can use a 7805. Please guide, thank you.
1838 should work. I think the only difference is the pinout. Make sure you have the TSOP 1838 connected to the correct pins. Look online for a data sheet showing the pinout. Also re-check the entire circuit.
Hi, I have a treadmill motor on the same 120ac wire which creates a lot off false triggering. I think it is because it creates spikes on the wire. How can I filter or stop theese?
For single device remote only On/Off function it is useful,but this requirement is rare,the every day requirement is a multiple devices,with different On/Off states,with regualators for fan & the dimmers should work on remote,here any remote will do?
This is great, thanks for the tutorial but I can see a problem with this. What if you have a number of appliances attached to this how can you make it selective through the remote? EG The garage door, the sprinkler system or indoors, the kettle the toaster, the blender, the lamps. but you want to allocate one button for one and another button for another. This setup is for any IR signal. what would you have to do to make it selective? eg the volume up turns on Device 1, volume down D2, channel up D3.... Any ideas? That's a whole other circuit board isn't it.
+Ryad Arlan This is a simple circuit. If you want to trigger multiple appliances, then make sure the receivers are not facing the same direction so you do not trigger more than one at a time. Thank You
I been wanting a circuit like this for some time now and finally found a good one, thanks to you. Your video was done very well and anyone with some basic understanding of electronics and soldering will have no problem following this diagram. Thanks for taking the time for posting this..... (I'm super excited now) :)
Thank u very much. The circuit worked with me well i applied it to 12v dc led back up system but the problem is the circuit disturbed by outer frequencies for example when i turn on a CFL light the circuit start on and off several time before it stabilized again .so how i could make the sensitivity of the circuit less. regards
+M Ahmad My other IR circuit shows a couple modifications I made which help eliminate false triggering that you can use with the output of the IR module in this video. Watch that video below. ruclips.net/video/xM52tsR4Mmc/видео.html Thanks
hi i have a question. i bought 3 RGB LED light strips that come each with its own RF wireless remote. Each strip is meant to go to 3 different workstations in close proximity to one another. The problem that I encounter is when one station changes a setting with the remote, the other two station respond as well. there is no other way to change settings on the strips other than with the remote. do you have a fix for this? or a trick? anything?
Hello, thank you for this video. I have made a circuit (infrared switch) similar to this one, but the problem is that it responds to almost everything. I mean you can use any remote to trigger the switch but it also responds to light, and if you shake it- will trigger itself etc. Any help? Thank you!
i do the same project on bread board..the circuit works and the LED is on..but when i press the TV remote button, nothing change and the LED not turn to red..do you know the problem..?thank you..
This is a perfect solution for turning on my LED lighting in my living room. Only problem is, wouldnt my tv remote turn it on too? How do you filter out different frequencies so that only the remote you choose can turn it on or off?
So in that circuit, is it responding to ANY infrared signal? For example, you don't need to program it to the remote, it just responds to the flash from the remotes LED ya? Does that leave it open to interference from natural light? Will the spark from a lighter or reflected sunlight also work. Cause that could be a pain. I know my tiny IR helicopter toy will not function correctly in sunlight or partial filtered light.
Nice video. I have a Amkette 720p Multimedia player. Remote and MultimediaPlayer works independently. Remote is not getting recognised now. How to go about it pls?
great video and very inspiring. Question: how do i control which button on my remote controls what? do i need to somehow adjust something, and can the same remote be used for a variety of different devices? thanks in advance
thanks for the reply...but my question was ...lets say i have a remote with 4 buttons...how would i be able to configure each button to do something..i.e button1 turns on, button 2 turns off button 3 turns on a different device and so on.
i was looking for this circuit, there were Rechargeable L.E.D. Lamps for 220v which had this integrated, but I coudn't grab one and it never came back to that store. Will be making this and post a response video soon, I'll be making this circuit using 7805 Regulator to make it run on 5V and 12V for the relay. Thanks
I'm thinking of using the circuit diagram to make an on and off light switch. I want to integrate the IR LED directly into the circuit and suggestions where I can put it? I was thing of putting it at the Vcc terminal of the IC, but not too sure what the voltage drop will do to the rest of the circuit. Can anyone help??
+Danushka Chandima Hi there. They "can" false trigger. I designed another circuit which is highly resistant to false triggering. Check it out. Includes the PCB image. ruclips.net/video/xM52tsR4Mmc/видео.html Thanks
The CD4017 responds to the rising edge on its clock input. That is, each time its clock input pin is brought from low (GND in that circuit) to high (+5V), it advances by one count. Assume the 4017 is currently at count 0. This means that the "Q0" output, pin 3, is the only output that will be high, and this causes the green LED to light up, indicating that the switched appliance is OFF. The "Q1" output on pin 2 will be low, so the relay will not be activated and the appliance will not power up. When the 4017 sees a rising edge on its clock input, it will advance from a count of 0 to a count of 1. The "Q0" output will go low, so the green LED will go out, and the "Q1" output on pin 2 will go high. This illuminates the red LED, and turns on the transistor, the relay, and the controlled appliance. When the 4017 sees another rising edge on its clock input, it will advance from 1 to 2 and its "Q2" output on pin 4 will go high. This output is connected to its reset input, so as soon as this happens, the 4017 resets back to a count of 0. Therefore, each time the 4017 sees a rising edge on its clock input, it will alternate between a count of 0 and a count of 1. The LEDs will change state, and the controlled appliance will turn ON and OFF, as the 4017's count changes.
sir! y i can't use BC548 with my project setup test , when i use it , the relay cant connect (6v relay) .... that is the problem with my replay 6v .so i change to use BC547 it work with 6v relay but not perfect as you project ,if i 1 2 turn on it i need to press 3, 4 r hold a few second, mayb after 1, 2hour it auto turn off (does the project is time limited?)
A decoupling capacitor is just a capacitor that's connected between the VDD and VSS pins (pins 16 and 8 on a CD4017) as close to the IC as possible and with leads as short as possible. Typically a 0.1 µF ceramic capacitor is used. It is highly recommended for logic devices, especially MSI ones such as the 4017, to prevent misoperation. In other words, it makes the 4017 work more reliably. In that circuit, without a decoupling capacitor, the 4017 may sometimes fail to change state. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor As you suspected, that infra-red LED is not enough to activate the TSOP1738 receiver. It generates a continuous stream of infra-red light. That receiver needs the light to be modulated (turned on and off) at a frequency of around 38 kHz. That requires an oscillator of some kind. You can use a 555 but they do not generate a very accurate frequency. Normal infra-red transmitters use a ceramic resonator to generate their frequencies, with an error of around ±1%. If you use a 555, use a good-quality, accurate capacitor such as this one:
First of all, adding "Urgent" will not get me to reply any faster, it is very rude actually, especially if you have not posted any links to share my channel/videos as appreciation for the video which you get for FREE. As for your question, You can power the relay using 12VDC, then take the 12VDC power supply and use a 5V regualtor(lm7805) to power the rest of the circuit at 5V. Thanks.
Dean Lee I have time delay circuits(Power ON or Power OFF) on my channel. Just add it to this circuit. Unfortunately I cannot make a schematic for any viewer that asks for one. I have over 275 videos, so my time is limited. Thanks.
hello, when i replace ir receiver with the switch..the circuit work..but the red led doesn't glow when off. And when i replace it with TSOP1738 and already test it at dark room but the circuit doesn't work. do you know why ?
I wonder if this could operate my Roku devices (two models with different remotes--hard to switch from one to the other) AND my Samsung TV. I use Roku for everything, except it can't control the TV volume, so I have to use the TV remote to adjust the volume. Remotomania
Hilal Alhakani Hi there! The IR receiver module (3 pins on the left) will have the output go LOW(in a pulse) when a remote control is directed at the sensor. The capacitor connected to pin # 3 makes the pulse last longer. When the pulse is detected, the cd4017 IC is used as a Flip-Flop to latch the relay coil ON or OFF, and at the same time latch the proper LED ON or OFF. Thanks For Watching! I have another improved video with a schematic/PCB in the video description area. Please Share, Post Links, and rate Thumbs Up.
You can buy the whole rig - receiver and control for $4.74 free ship... search flea bay for One Channel 5V Relay Module with Infrared Remote Control Optocoupler DIY and save yourself the time and trouble of finding parts and building it.
How would I say make this setup but in a micro size and have the power to turn on say set on a timer so on a certain time it will send signal to turn on the object I want turned on. I'm working on a project that I need to work on a timer to turn on a micro vibration motor for my prodject. but want it to send power on the time I set the timer. if u can help please message me. thank u
Start by reading the data sheet for the TSOP1738: pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/208/301092_DS.pdf The device has an active low output. That is, its output pulls low (to 0V) when it is receiving an infra-red stream modulated at 38 kHz. The way the circuit is supposed to work, when the TSOP1738 is receiving infra-red from a remote control transmitter, it pulls its output low. This discharges the 100 µF capacitor and also forward-biases the PNP transistor, causing it to pull its collector high and clock the CD4017, changing the state of the appliance control output. An infra-red remote control transmitter transmits modulated infra-red light in a series of bursts; the widths of these bursts, and the gaps between them, encode the particular command being sent. But this circuit doesn't care about that. The 100 µF capacitor ensures that the PNP is kept ON during the gaps in the infra-red signal. Only when the button on the remote control transmitter is released, and the infra-red transmission has stopped for a short time, can the PNP turn OFF ready for the next button-press. This circuit has several errors. (1) There should be a decoupling capacitor across the power supply input to the TSOP1738. (2) There should be a resistor between the TSOP1738's output and the base of the PNP; without this resistor, a fairly high current will flow through the PNP's base-emitter junction and into the TSOP1738 when it tries to pull its output low; this current will exceed the TSOP1738's specification (5 mA maximum output current) and may damage it. It could also damage the PNP. (3) Another resistor should be added between the TSOP1738's output and VCC, or the 100 µF capacitor should be reduced so that the built-in pullup resistor in the TSOP1738 will produce an appropriate delay. (4) C2 is not needed. (5) A decoupling capacitor should be connected between the VDD and VSS pins of the CD4017 to ensure proper operation. (6) The CD4017 is a 10-output device; only two output states are needed, and the CD4017 can be replaced by a CD4013.
electronicsNmore what may be the possible mistake. I m new in this field, so its not simple for me. but relay that I used is JQC 3FC 6V. can it be a mistake???
can you please show me the connections of the transistors used ...i m confused between the emitter and the collector part ..maybe my connection is going wrong over there ..@myvideosonutube
+Bagaskara LA When the IR sensor module detects IR light from the remote control, the output voltage of the output pin of the IR module temporarily dips which causes the circuit to trigger. Each triggering causes the 4017 to flip-flip(On/Off). Thanks
+electronicsNmore Hello i have no idea about how it works..but i just want to learn it for tubelight i have already one of it done by my cousin for me. but if you help me step by step i would be glad
i tried this project and it worked but the problem is that it automatically gets switched off after a certain interval thought every time the intervals are different. i have to again press the remote button to make the lights on......i need help on this project
It should not be doing that. Try adding a resistor in series with the output leg of the tsop1738/1838. Start around 1K and go higher of needed until the problem goes away. Using too high a value will kill your range. It sounds like the IR is too sensitive and being triggered by fluorescent lights/sunlight.
plz help me sir !! in my country has only TSOP 1838 (dont hav TSOP 1738) i had setup like the circuit without TSOP 1738 but i replace it with TSOP 1838 it not work , it the lamp just trun on mayb afew second it auto off.... help me plz
That awesome ! I wanted to make a remote control for my custom fluorescent lamp fixtures because all they require to run is an inductor choke ballast (that's just a coil of wire around a core) and an open/closed starter switch that is only closed for a temporary time to induce voltage once the voltage has built up, disconnect the switch gives the bulb a small voltage kick that comes from disconnected any circuit from power. The voltage kick the bulb gets from opening the circuit switch is what makes the fluorescent bulb pop on. I see in this video the remote is a toggle on and off switch I would like to know if I could make one that doesn't toggle the power on and off, but If I hold the remote button down it stays toggled closed but if I let go it disconnects the power via the remote. Is that possible?
Paul Zaffuto Hi Paul. So you want something always powered, but when you press the remote control and hold down the button, you want the power to stay off until you let go?
Hello ElectronicsNmore, yes that would act as the off button for the lamp but it would not need to be held down. But the circuit that turns the power off just needs to be opened briefly and it can be closed again and be connected to power again but there a 2nd circuit that is always open but when closed and held closed the lamp begins to preheat its filaments. then disconnecting or opening the 2nd circuit pops the lamp on.. I have a picture of the lamp design I can show you if it still doesn't make sense to u still.....
I would love to help, but unfortunately I do not have the time to offer my viewers special assistance. Maybe you can find another circuit on my channel which you can combine with this circuit to accomplish what you are looking to do.
lol I dont need any special assistance was just asking if you had done that before with the circuit in this video. btw you sound like some automatic reply treating me as if I was some kind of customer of yours.... GL with your work
You received an appropriate reply. You were asking to do something that the circuit was not designed to do. The circuit was made to toggle ON/OFF. I have almost 300 videos on my channel and viewers send me private messages on a daily basis asking me to design special circuits or modify circuits for them. Unfortunately I do not have the time to do that. That is what I mean by "Special Assistance". Many channels do not even bother to reply to viewer questions, but I do reply to my viewers questions. If you were in my position, you would understand. :-). Thanks For Watching
sir it will be appreciable if you can give the circuit diagram the one in the video is hazy and unclear to understand so plz help sir you can email me the diagram ....
+Chawalit Udon Sak You can use this circuit to turn on or off anything you want(5v/12v/110v/220v). Just be sure to use the proper rated relay to handle the load. Thanks For Watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share my channel with others.
6V is fine. The tsop 1738 receiver is rated for 5V max. I suggest using a 7805 regulator, or find out how much current the circuit draws using 5V, then use a resistor in line with your higher power supple to limit the voltage/current to the circuit. For the relay, just use one rated for the voltage you want to use.
This circuit will work fine for both 110v and 220v appliances(DEPENDING where you live). What is important is that you have a LINE and NEUTRAL to produce the 220V. If you do not, then one leg will always be hot as in the USA where 220V consists of (2) 110V lines, not (1) 220v line and a neutral to complete the circuit.
If you remove the connection in the schematic from the relay to the +5V red line, and connect it to a 12V power supply instead, that would work. The rest of the circuit would be powered by a 7805 VREG. Make sure the input and output of the Vreg has a small capacitor on them both to ground. Use like a 104/.1 uf.
No. Open up your relay and try removing 1/2 the copper windings from the relay coil and solder it back. The wire is VERY thin, so do it carefully. You may also have to weaken the spring in the relay to get it to close after the mod. Simple to do, otherwise buy a 5v or 6v relay.
You can also use a 2n3904 & 2n3906, or any other similar pnp/npn transistors.
@Smk161191 Make sure you have the proper IR receiver. Also make sure the wires are on the correct pins. Might have to swap the wires to the pins around. There is no PCB layout. I did it all by hand.
Glad you liked it.
Can't believe I've just discovered this channel. Thanks for the instructions.
Ivan Čerjan You're welcome Ivan. Please spread the word about my channel. Thank You!
Just to make question simpler I want to put a third led in this circuit and I want this third led to be on all the time, not like the red or green led. Where would be the best place to put the third led?
hi nice video!!.. is any for to add more relays and also to turn it on and off each one separate?
Can you please tell me whats the number of that 12v regulator, and how did you connected from the relay to the rest of the circuit
Nice video and very simple schematic. I have a relay of 12vdc for 240v 5A. With this schematic can I use this 12v relay for 12vdc led lights, in stead of 240vac appliances? Well, for TSOP1738 part of the circuit I can use a 7805. Please guide, thank you.
Will all the buttons on the transmitter work the receiver?
Any button works. The range is only around 12-15 feet, and fluorescent lights(CFL's) may cause false triggering.
Can you tell me how many Khz IR receiver must be to work with a standard TV transmitter so that it works to your chart ?
Hello in the remote control appliances circuit can you show me how did you connect the voltage regulator ?
Thank you
Just "Google" bc548 and bc558. You will find photos showing how to connect to the circuit.
1838 should work. I think the only difference is the pinout. Make sure you have the TSOP 1838 connected to the correct pins. Look online for a data sheet showing the pinout. Also re-check the entire circuit.
Hi, I have a treadmill motor on the same 120ac wire which creates a lot off false triggering. I think it is because it creates spikes on the wire. How can I filter or stop theese?
what kind of appliances can we use for a 6v relay...please suggest
For single device remote only On/Off function it is useful,but this requirement is rare,the every day requirement is a multiple devices,with different On/Off states,with regualators for fan & the dimmers should work on remote,here any remote will do?
I have a remote controlled " Bigfoot toy " the remote is missing, could I get a different remote to operate it? Many thanks... John :)
This is great, thanks for the tutorial but I can see a problem with this.
What if you have a number of appliances attached to this how can you make it selective through the remote? EG The garage door, the sprinkler system or indoors, the kettle the toaster, the blender, the lamps. but you want to allocate one button for one and another button for another.
This setup is for any IR signal. what would you have to do to make it selective? eg the volume up turns on Device 1, volume down D2, channel up D3....
Any ideas? That's a whole other circuit board isn't it.
+Ryad Arlan
This is a simple circuit. If you want to trigger multiple appliances, then make sure the receivers are not facing the same direction so you do not trigger more than one at a time.
Thank You
MANY different types will work. Find an old VCR/DVD player/tv or stereo and take it from there.
I been wanting a circuit like this for some time now and finally found a good one, thanks to you. Your video was done very well and anyone with some basic understanding of electronics and soldering will have no problem following this diagram. Thanks for taking the time for posting this..... (I'm super excited now) :)
+Ron Stewart
You're welcome! Be sure to watch the other video shown in the video description area.
sir what are the things i need to buy to build this thing? i mean all parts
@ajit189
Because that is what the schematic said to do. I did not design the circuit.
Try adding a 20K pot on the output pin from the IR module. :-) That will desensitize the sensor, but still allow remote triggering.
In the video description box under the video is the link.
so if I were to build two of these, could you then remote control them individually or would both turn on/off at the same time?
+jens-peter riise malle andersen
If both are located in the same location, then both will turn on.
okay great, thanks for quick answer! great video btw! :)
Thank u very much.
The circuit worked with me well i applied it to 12v dc led back up system but the problem is the circuit disturbed by outer frequencies for example when i turn on a CFL light the circuit start on and off several time before it stabilized again .so how i could make the sensitivity of the circuit less.
regards
+M Ahmad
My other IR circuit shows a couple modifications I made which help eliminate false triggering that you can use with the output of the IR module in this video. Watch that video below.
ruclips.net/video/xM52tsR4Mmc/видео.html
Thanks
what button do you press on hitachi remotto control to get hdmi it's an old remote control
@myvideoisonutube ok sir..one more thing..the red and black wires coming in the circuit is through a 6v transformer or something else?
you can turn off and on only for 230v appliances? :)
hi i have a question. i bought 3 RGB LED light strips that come each with its own RF wireless remote. Each strip is meant to go to 3 different workstations in close proximity to one another. The problem that I encounter is when one station changes a setting with the remote, the other two station respond as well. there is no other way to change settings on the strips other than with the remote. do you have a fix for this? or a trick? anything?
Hello, thank you for this video.
I have made a circuit (infrared switch) similar to this one, but the problem is that it responds to almost everything. I mean you can use any remote to trigger the switch but it also responds to light, and if you shake it- will trigger itself etc. Any help?
Thank you!
i do the same project on bread board..the circuit works and the LED is on..but when i press the TV remote button, nothing change and the LED not turn to red..do you know the problem..?thank you..
Hey Arby. I could not find a data sheet for that component. The IR sensor module has to be 38khz, and work the same way as the tsop 1738/1838.
This is a perfect solution for turning on my LED lighting in my living room. Only problem is, wouldnt my tv remote turn it on too? How do you filter out different frequencies so that only the remote you choose can turn it on or off?
So in that circuit, is it responding to ANY infrared signal? For example, you don't need to program it to the remote, it just responds to the flash from the remotes LED ya? Does that leave it open to interference from natural light? Will the spark from a lighter or reflected sunlight also work. Cause that could be a pain. I know my tiny IR helicopter toy will not function correctly in sunlight or partial filtered light.
No programming. Use any IR remote. You can adjust the sensitivity to help prevent false triggering.
you controlled it with any button on the remote? thank you
+keiannschyler Yes. Some buttons make the circuit trigger faster than others.
electronicsNmore
Thank you. now i can fool my friends that i can start my car with a tv remote.. LOL
Nice video. I have a Amkette 720p Multimedia player. Remote and MultimediaPlayer works independently. Remote is not getting recognised now. How to go about it pls?
Rangarajan Venkatachari Unfortunately I know nothing about that remote and player.
Thanks for watching!
can you tell me where did you find it.....
comment the link
sir,can you show me the pcb layout of the circuit.I'm trying to make that but am not getting it right.
great video and very inspiring.
Question: how do i control which button on my remote controls what? do i need to somehow adjust something, and can the same remote be used for a variety of different devices?
thanks in advance
Any button on any IR remote works. Some buttons may take longer to trigger the circuit.
thanks for the reply...but my question was ...lets say i have a remote with 4 buttons...how would i be able to configure each button to do something..i.e button1 turns on, button 2 turns off
button 3 turns on a different device and so on.
Not with this circuit. This circuit is extremely simple. To do what you want, you would need a more complex circuit which allows programming.
thanks again....but you really got me thinking...very inspiring as i said before.
Thanx for share!!! ... working on that.
I was trying to make something like this but mine is sensible up to 3 ft and no more.
i was looking for this circuit, there were Rechargeable L.E.D. Lamps for 220v
which had this integrated, but I coudn't grab one and it never came back to that store.
Will be making this and post a response video soon,
I'll be making this circuit using 7805 Regulator to make it run on 5V and 12V for the relay.
Thanks
i m using a TSOP 1740 reciever ... does it work or is it necessary to be 1738 ??
it is not working with 1740
this is a great idea!!! im going to use it for my stop motion film coming up.
I'm thinking of using the circuit diagram to make an on and off light switch. I want to integrate the IR LED directly into the circuit and suggestions where I can put it? I was thing of putting it at the Vcc terminal of the IC, but not too sure what the voltage drop will do to the rest of the circuit. Can anyone help??
can we use a 12 vdc relay instead?
thanks!
Hey bro how about false triggering...? I have made few circuits but all of them had false triggering sometimes...How about this one...?
+Danushka Chandima
Hi there. They "can" false trigger. I designed another circuit which is highly resistant to false triggering. Check it out. Includes the PCB image.
ruclips.net/video/xM52tsR4Mmc/видео.html
Thanks
The CD4017 responds to the rising edge on its clock input. That is, each time its clock input pin is brought from low (GND in that circuit) to high (+5V), it advances by one count.
Assume the 4017 is currently at count 0. This means that the "Q0" output, pin 3, is the only output that will be high, and this causes the green LED to light up, indicating that the switched appliance is OFF. The "Q1" output on pin 2 will be low, so the relay will not be activated and the appliance will not power up.
When the 4017 sees a rising edge on its clock input, it will advance from a count of 0 to a count of 1. The "Q0" output will go low, so the green LED will go out, and the "Q1" output on pin 2 will go high. This illuminates the red LED, and turns on the transistor, the relay, and the controlled appliance.
When the 4017 sees another rising edge on its clock input, it will advance from 1 to 2 and its "Q2" output on pin 4 will go high. This output is connected to its reset input, so as soon as this happens, the 4017 resets back to a count of 0.
Therefore, each time the 4017 sees a rising edge on its clock input, it will alternate between a count of 0 and a count of 1. The LEDs will change state, and the controlled appliance will turn ON and OFF, as the 4017's count changes.
sir! y i can't use BC548 with my project setup test , when i use it , the relay cant connect (6v relay) .... that is the problem with my replay 6v .so i change to use BC547 it work with 6v relay but not perfect as you project ,if i 1 2 turn on it i need to press 3, 4 r hold a few second, mayb after 1, 2hour it auto turn off (does the project is time limited?)
I suggest you go over the circuit again, and make sure all the components are correct. Try the circuit in a fairly dark room first.
hi there can i power this remote control system by car accumulator?
No. I use it for 120V appliances.
A decoupling capacitor is just a capacitor that's connected between the VDD and VSS pins (pins 16 and 8 on a CD4017) as close to the IC as possible and with leads as short as possible. Typically a 0.1 µF ceramic capacitor is used. It is highly recommended for logic devices, especially MSI ones such as the 4017, to prevent misoperation. In other words, it makes the 4017 work more reliably. In that circuit, without a decoupling capacitor, the 4017 may sometimes fail to change state.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor
As you suspected, that infra-red LED is not enough to activate the TSOP1738 receiver. It generates a continuous stream of infra-red light. That receiver needs the light to be modulated (turned on and off) at a frequency of around 38 kHz. That requires an oscillator of some kind.
You can use a 555 but they do not generate a very accurate frequency. Normal infra-red transmitters use a ceramic resonator to generate their frequencies, with an error of around ±1%. If you use a 555, use a good-quality, accurate capacitor such as this one:
I have another video showing a different version of this circuit.
electronicsNmore where
I'm guessing you did not look in the video description area for the link that I posted to the schematic?
The link to the schematic is in the video description area. For this circuit I used a simple PCB, not etched.
will it be able to control specific outlet by specific button??
No. Any button on the remote will turn it on/off
sir can i use 12 V relay inplace of 5 V relay? Urgent........
First of all, adding "Urgent" will not get me to reply any faster, it is very rude actually, especially if you have not posted any links to share my channel/videos as appreciation for the video which you get for FREE.
As for your question, You can power the relay using 12VDC, then take the 12VDC power supply and use a 5V regualtor(lm7805) to power the rest of the circuit at 5V.
Thanks.
1738 uses 38Khz, and the 1740 uses 40Khz. Different frequencies. Try swapping the pins around on your TSOP 1740
How about aadd a time delay to this circuit, sir? Thanks
Dean Lee I have time delay circuits(Power ON or Power OFF) on my channel. Just add it to this circuit. Unfortunately I cannot make a schematic for any viewer that asks for one. I have over 275 videos, so my time is limited.
Thanks.
Can i connect two or more light connections through the same setup?
You can control as many lights as you want as long as you do not exceed the rating of the relay contacts.
I am sorry, I am a lay man to the electronic world. Can you tell me how i could change the channels assuming I have 3 light bulbs.
Turning the circuit on and off will turn ALL the lights on/off at the same time. You cannot choose each light with this circuit
Okay. Thank you! :)
hello, when i replace ir receiver with the switch..the circuit work..but the red led doesn't glow when off. And when i replace it with TSOP1738 and already test it at dark room but the circuit doesn't work. do you know why ?
Hello again myvideoisonutube can u show me how did you connect the 5v out voltage regulator ? and can you show me the diagram?
sir where i can buy this circuit kit please help me
I wonder if this could operate my Roku devices (two models with different remotes--hard to switch from one to the other) AND my Samsung TV. I use Roku for everything, except it can't control the TV volume, so I have to use the TV remote to adjust the volume. Remotomania
Awesome video... but could u explain why every part is installed ..just to understand how everything is working. .
Thx
Hilal Alhakani Hi there! The IR receiver module (3 pins on the left) will have the output go LOW(in a pulse) when a remote control is directed at the sensor. The capacitor connected to pin # 3 makes the pulse last longer. When the pulse is detected, the cd4017 IC is used as a Flip-Flop to latch the relay coil ON or OFF, and at the same time latch the proper LED ON or OFF.
Thanks For Watching! I have another improved video with a schematic/PCB in the video description area. Please Share, Post Links, and rate Thumbs Up.
thx a lot for the clarification .. keep up the good work :)
Be sure to spread the word about my channel! :-)
consider it done :)
You can buy the whole rig - receiver and control for $4.74 free ship... search flea bay for One Channel 5V Relay Module with Infrared Remote Control Optocoupler DIY and save yourself the time and trouble of finding parts and building it.
can i use TSOP31238 coz my dealer says tsop1738 is discontinued!
Plz help
How would I say make this setup but in a micro size and have the power to turn on say set on a timer so on a certain time it will send signal to turn on the object I want turned on. I'm working on a project that I need to work on a timer to turn on a micro vibration motor for my prodject. but want it to send power on the time I set the timer. if u can help please message me. thank u
Hello. You would need to use surface mount components to make it smaller. This circuit does not fit what you're looking for. Thanks for watching
+electronicsNmore thanks
Can I use tsop2236 as my IR?
🕹🎮🤖😴😴😊😚😋
Start by reading the data sheet for the TSOP1738: pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/208/301092_DS.pdf
The device has an active low output. That is, its output pulls low (to 0V) when it is receiving an infra-red stream modulated at 38 kHz.
The way the circuit is supposed to work, when the TSOP1738 is receiving infra-red from a remote control transmitter, it pulls its output low. This discharges the 100 µF capacitor and also forward-biases the PNP transistor, causing it to pull its collector high and clock the CD4017, changing the state of the appliance control output.
An infra-red remote control transmitter transmits modulated infra-red light in a series of bursts; the widths of these bursts, and the gaps between them, encode the particular command being sent. But this circuit doesn't care about that. The 100 µF capacitor ensures that the PNP is kept ON during the gaps in the infra-red signal. Only when the button on the remote control transmitter is released, and the infra-red transmission has stopped for a short time, can the PNP turn OFF ready for the next button-press.
This circuit has several errors. (1) There should be a decoupling capacitor across the power supply input to the TSOP1738. (2) There should be a resistor between the TSOP1738's output and the base of the PNP; without this resistor, a fairly high current will flow through the PNP's base-emitter junction and into the TSOP1738 when it tries to pull its output low; this current will exceed the TSOP1738's specification (5 mA maximum output current) and may damage it. It could also damage the PNP. (3) Another resistor should be added between the TSOP1738's output and VCC, or the 100 µF capacitor should be reduced so that the built-in pullup resistor in the TSOP1738 will produce an appropriate delay. (4) C2 is not needed. (5) A decoupling capacitor should be connected between the VDD and VSS pins of the CD4017 to ensure proper operation. (6) The CD4017 is a 10-output device; only two output states are needed, and the CD4017 can be replaced by a CD4013.
How you connected regulator?
nice video for me who is totally beginner..
ihate vengeance Glad you liked the video. Also check out the newer version I uploaded to my channel.
Please Share and rate Thumbs Up. Thank You!
I tried it on breadboard but with 9v battery (used voltage devider to get 5v) and Relay along. But it didnot worked.
Is there any mistake ???
Jai kamal The circuit works. You clearly did something wrong.
electronicsNmore what may be the possible mistake.
I m new in this field, so its not simple for me. but relay that I used is JQC 3FC 6V. can it be a mistake???
You need a regulated output. Try a zener regulator.
can you please show me the connections of the transistors used ...i m confused between the emitter and the collector part ..maybe my connection is going wrong over there ..@myvideosonutube
amazing,, do u have the analysis of how it works?
+Bagaskara LA
When the IR sensor module detects IR light from the remote control, the output voltage of the output pin of the IR module temporarily dips which causes the circuit to trigger. Each triggering causes the 4017 to flip-flip(On/Off).
Thanks
So the Vss curent not flowing into CLK all the time right? Just when we press the remote button?
electronicsNmore
+electronicsNmore Hello i have no idea about how it works..but i just want to learn it for tubelight i have already one of it done by my cousin for me. but if you help me step by step i would be glad
i tried this project and it worked but the problem is that it automatically gets switched off after a certain interval thought every time the intervals are different. i have to again press the remote button to make the lights on......i need help on this project
It should not be doing that. Try adding a resistor in series with the output leg of the tsop1738/1838. Start around 1K and go higher of needed until the problem goes away. Using too high a value will kill your range. It sounds like the IR is too sensitive and being triggered by fluorescent lights/sunlight.
Don't understand what your trying to do. Need a better explanation. What IR led??
plz help me sir !! in my country has only TSOP 1838 (dont hav TSOP 1738)
i had setup like the circuit without TSOP 1738 but i replace it with TSOP 1838 it not work
, it the lamp just trun on mayb afew second it auto off.... help me plz
how can i do without bc558 bc548 coz there a don hav in my country
can i use pic3088 ir receier?
im sorry but you would frie the µc and the ir reciever if you gave it 12v maybe a few caps as well. be carefull with mains voltages they can kill!!
this is so awesome it works perfectly. Great!!!
plz tell me how you connected regulator IC
That awesome ! I wanted to make a remote control for my custom fluorescent lamp fixtures because all they require to run is an inductor choke ballast (that's just a coil of wire around a core) and an open/closed starter switch that is only closed for a temporary time to induce voltage once the voltage has built up, disconnect the switch gives the bulb a small voltage kick that comes from disconnected any circuit from power. The voltage kick the bulb gets from opening the circuit switch is what makes the fluorescent bulb pop on. I see in this video the remote is a toggle on and off switch I would like to know if I could make one that doesn't toggle the power on and off, but If I hold the remote button down it stays toggled closed but if I let go it disconnects the power via the remote. Is that possible?
Paul Zaffuto Hi Paul. So you want something always powered, but when you press the remote control and hold down the button, you want the power to stay off until you let go?
Hello ElectronicsNmore, yes that would act as the off button for the lamp but it would not need to be held down. But the circuit that turns the power off just needs to be opened briefly and it can be closed again and be connected to power again but there a 2nd circuit that is always open but when closed and held closed the lamp begins to preheat its filaments. then disconnecting or opening the 2nd circuit pops the lamp on.. I have a picture of the lamp design I can show you if it still doesn't make sense to u still.....
I would love to help, but unfortunately I do not have the time to offer my viewers special assistance. Maybe you can find another circuit on my channel which you can combine with this circuit to accomplish what you are looking to do.
lol I dont need any special assistance was just asking if you had done that before with the circuit in this video. btw you sound like some automatic reply treating me as if I was some kind of customer of yours.... GL with your work
You received an appropriate reply. You were asking to do something that the circuit was not designed to do. The circuit was made to toggle ON/OFF. I have almost 300 videos on my channel and viewers send me private messages on a daily basis asking me to design special circuits or modify circuits for them. Unfortunately I do not have the time to do that. That is what I mean by "Special Assistance". Many channels do not even bother to reply to viewer questions, but I do reply to my viewers questions. If you were in my position, you would understand. :-).
Thanks For Watching
please i need the block diagram of the circuit
Simple but effective
can i use 9 volt supply because i have 12 volt relay
The power supply to the circuit needs to be regulated at 5V. The relay can be powered from a higher voltage, such as 9V or 12.
SPST or SPDT
sir it will be appreciable if you can give the circuit diagram
the one in the video is hazy and unclear to understand so plz help sir
you can email me the diagram ....
sir i dont understand how to connect relay my relay has 8 terminals
please sir show me the block diagram of the circuit
can the bc548 be replaced with ?
bc547, 2n3904, 2n2222, 2n4401
How can I use this using multiple outputs. E.g I want to use 3 buttons for 3 different outputs.
This circuit is extremely simple and uses no modulation. You cannot choose different buttons.
How can I modify that to use multiple channels?
You cant.
can i ask?can i used it to CONTROL too many LED?
+Chawalit Udon Sak
You can use this circuit to turn on or off anything you want(5v/12v/110v/220v). Just be sure to use the proper rated relay to handle the load.
Thanks For Watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share my channel with others.
+electronicsNmore thanks 👍👍 but what about the wiring diagram for remote?
You use ANY remote.
sir can i use pna4602m ir sensor inplace of 1738