The left over paint is in the ferrule, not in the bristles. Thick paint like oils work their way up into the ferrule of the brush and need a thick solvent similar in viscosity to "displace" the previous paint mixtures. It's hydro dynamics you need to literally "push" the previous paint out. I recommend Jack Richeson studio soap. (no affiliation with the product or supplier)
I've been painting oils exclusively with W&N Water-Mixable Oils, and I was doing like most painters where I would only wipe and not deep clean between colors, but I had run into a tremendous amount of difficulty in getting pure colors when doing this because I expected the paints to behave like normal oil paints, and they do not. If I leave even a trace of blue on my brush, dipping into yellow would turn the whole yellow pile on my palette into green, and would lay down green on to my canvas. The same goes for any dark color on a brush being used next on any lighter color, and for any primary color on the brush being used next on any secondary color. It frustrated me so much that I began deep cleaning my brushes with silicoil and turpentine between drastic changes of hue. It seems that W&N water mixable oils bleed into each other even if you do not use water to thin them at all. Even straight from the tube they will bleed into each other because they are very oily and the oil is modified oil. Water mixable oils also dry much faster than regular oils for me, it is often touch-dry in 24-48hours, so I cannot leave brushes loaded with paint, and I cannot leave paint on my palette to be reused later. I once left traces of cadmium orange hue in my brush because I put it away after only wiping it, and the whole brush ceased up within 24hours, I had to spend a whole day soaking it in turpentine and then scrubbing it with master's brush soap to remove the paint and soften the bristles enough to allow that brush to accept new paint. I have grown to like the quickness of drying, it's like a middle point between acrylic and oil, but the consequence of this is that I must spend more time and diligence cleaning my brushes carefully after every session.
Aww I am sorry to hear that. I have no experience with water mixable oils. May I suggest though, to use different brushes for your lights area and for your shadows area. This might help a bit.
@@marcjasi Thank you! Absolutely, when I can afford it I'll be getting more brushes to help alleviate the problem. I'm honestly also planning on eventually migrating away from water mixable and sticking to artist's oils when my skills are more advanced and I can then more easily handle the changes in drying time and paint texture. There are many techniques which water mixable just don't perform as well with, such as sgraffito, scumbling, alla prima, and impasto, and I'd like to learn and incorporate them in the future as well. I went with water mixable only because I was unsure if I would enjoy oil painting and I was unfamiliar with the clean up process so I wanted something I could just wash down the sink if needed, and W&N sells a 20-tube introductory water mixable set for only $40, which is incredibly affordable for a novice. The chroma of artisan water mixable oils is almost as high as artist's oils, but the textures and paint behavior is way off. Most importantly, they're very destructive towards brushes and demanding of constant cleaning.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I paint solvent free. I only use linseed oil or walnut oil with alkyd (M Graham makes it) this helps the paint to dry faster. I have been cleaning my brushes by dipping in vegetable oil then the soap, but this takes time. I am going to try wiping and a dip in artist grade safflower oil. I have a glass palette, that I made from a picture frame, I cover it and store it in the freezer in between painting sessions. What are your thoughts on this? I enjoy your channel, thank you.
Nettoyer des pinceaux avec de l'huile...C'est fou et assez contre-intuitif en fin de compte. Moi j'ai tendance a ne les nettoyer qu'au savon de marseille. Mais j'essaierai cette idée. merci
@@cvekris8177 oui en effet c’est assez contre intuitif je suis d’accord, mais fonctionne à merveille. L’huile de carthame étant ma favorite pour cette tâche. Merci pour votre commentaire 🙏🏻
The left over paint is in the ferrule, not in the bristles. Thick paint like oils work their way up into the ferrule of the brush and need a thick solvent similar in viscosity to "displace" the previous paint mixtures. It's hydro dynamics you need to literally "push" the previous paint out. I recommend Jack Richeson studio soap. (no affiliation with the product or supplier)
@@togglebutton3312 thank you for your valuable comment and information 🙏🏻 this is great!
I've been painting oils exclusively with W&N Water-Mixable Oils, and I was doing like most painters where I would only wipe and not deep clean between colors, but I had run into a tremendous amount of difficulty in getting pure colors when doing this because I expected the paints to behave like normal oil paints, and they do not. If I leave even a trace of blue on my brush, dipping into yellow would turn the whole yellow pile on my palette into green, and would lay down green on to my canvas. The same goes for any dark color on a brush being used next on any lighter color, and for any primary color on the brush being used next on any secondary color. It frustrated me so much that I began deep cleaning my brushes with silicoil and turpentine between drastic changes of hue. It seems that W&N water mixable oils bleed into each other even if you do not use water to thin them at all. Even straight from the tube they will bleed into each other because they are very oily and the oil is modified oil. Water mixable oils also dry much faster than regular oils for me, it is often touch-dry in 24-48hours, so I cannot leave brushes loaded with paint, and I cannot leave paint on my palette to be reused later. I once left traces of cadmium orange hue in my brush because I put it away after only wiping it, and the whole brush ceased up within 24hours, I had to spend a whole day soaking it in turpentine and then scrubbing it with master's brush soap to remove the paint and soften the bristles enough to allow that brush to accept new paint. I have grown to like the quickness of drying, it's like a middle point between acrylic and oil, but the consequence of this is that I must spend more time and diligence cleaning my brushes carefully after every session.
Aww I am sorry to hear that. I have no experience with water mixable oils. May I suggest though, to use different brushes for your lights area and for your shadows area. This might help a bit.
@@marcjasi Thank you! Absolutely, when I can afford it I'll be getting more brushes to help alleviate the problem. I'm honestly also planning on eventually migrating away from water mixable and sticking to artist's oils when my skills are more advanced and I can then more easily handle the changes in drying time and paint texture. There are many techniques which water mixable just don't perform as well with, such as sgraffito, scumbling, alla prima, and impasto, and I'd like to learn and incorporate them in the future as well.
I went with water mixable only because I was unsure if I would enjoy oil painting and I was unfamiliar with the clean up process so I wanted something I could just wash down the sink if needed, and W&N sells a 20-tube introductory water mixable set for only $40, which is incredibly affordable for a novice. The chroma of artisan water mixable oils is almost as high as artist's oils, but the textures and paint behavior is way off. Most importantly, they're very destructive towards brushes and demanding of constant cleaning.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I paint solvent free. I only use linseed oil or walnut oil with alkyd (M Graham makes it) this helps the paint to dry faster. I have been cleaning my brushes by dipping in vegetable oil then the soap, but this takes time. I am going to try wiping and a dip in artist grade safflower oil. I have a glass palette, that I made from a picture frame, I cover it and store it in the freezer in between painting sessions. What are your thoughts on this? I enjoy your channel, thank you.
@@michaeldignelli2152 you are welcome 🙏🏻 yes, putting the paint in the freezer between painting sessions is a great idea! It definitely saves paint!
Nettoyer des pinceaux avec de l'huile...C'est fou et assez contre-intuitif en fin de compte. Moi j'ai tendance a ne les nettoyer qu'au savon de marseille. Mais j'essaierai cette idée. merci
@@cvekris8177 oui en effet c’est assez contre intuitif je suis d’accord, mais fonctionne à merveille. L’huile de carthame étant ma favorite pour cette tâche. Merci pour votre commentaire 🙏🏻