Look like the B1 is ahead of the Ender 3 V2 when you take into account everything that's fitted inside the machine. All of the said "Upgrades" of the ender 3 v2 is tbh a user preference kind of thing which makes the ender 3 v2 less appealing. Great video btw!
Oh well great video, at least someone did get the BIQU B1 to use for testing and using! I wondered already, which board they were going to use, I thought the 2.0 but they used the 1.4 board instead...
@Teaching Tech Can you tell me which device did you use to make RPi more stable, without losing connection . I am sorry for question not related to this video
I have just purchased the Ender 3 V2 and I am very happy with it, I think I made the right choice. Thanks for the comparison, as always you are clear and concise. How about a video on fitting a BL Touch to the V2, it looks like there is already a socket on the main board to accommodate it.
Please do! I ordered my bltouch and it should be here Thursday. I'm probably smart enough to figure it out on my own, but I can't get my bed to consistently level, so I may be full of it
That's what my mistake was. I asked them if I could put a bltouch on the Ender 3 V2 they told me it doesn't come with the function but you could put one on there so I bought the printer and bltouch and now that I have the bltouch and the printer the bracket doesn't Mount up like it should and they finally got back to me and told me that they haven't even started developing the firmware for the bltouch for the Ender 3 V2 I've been looking everywhere 4 something I just figured I'd let you guys know waste your money on a kit all you need is the bltouch in The Wire you're going to have to print a bltouch bracket for it cuz the one that supposedly says it fits that printer doesn't line up
Thanks for the great details of this video. Looking forward to see Bltouch upgrade for Ender 3 v2 as it said already has slot prepared for it but so far nobody really cover in details.
I had the same problem with the first layer, it always looked way overextruded despite the flow being reduced to 90% (really it only affected the first layer) so it tried a cura version below 4.6.0 which fixed the problem for me. But making very large prints with cura I‘ve always suffered from defects so I switched to simplify3d and prusa slicer which solved the problems for me.
Actually, I figured it out. I noticed that the right side was getting more smushed than the left, so figured it could be due to gantry sag. I installed a dual z-axis kit and it solved the issue. I actually used a combination of parts from the single-motor dual axis kit, and the creality dual-motor kit, because the single-motor kit parts actually have some advantages, i.e. the top mounting brackets allow for further travel, so your z-axis doesn't get shortened, the rods are longer, and the gantry mounting bracket is lighter. So the only thing I used from the creality dual-motor kit was the stepper motor plus mount and wiring harness. Best of both worlds, and the first print turned out perfect. I just wish the gantry sag hadn't destroyed my PEI flexible heated bed surface before I figured it out... Now to get started on swapping in the linear rail kit...
Interested in the ease or not of adding BLTouch to both machines, and any firmware updates that might be necessary. How to set a Z-offset. Thanks for the video!
I’m waiting for my ender 3 v2 turn up as my first printer. Were u able to fix the collapsible basket? Are there any upgrades you would do on the ender 3 v2?
Thanks Michael! I'd love to see a test of adding a BL Touch to the B1 (or both printers) during the review, although I know that is a bit beyond the scope of a normal review. Maybe justified with the inclusion of that bracket, port on the back, and the firmware already being prepared?
Glad I went with the ender 3 V2. Bought some of the common upgrades before it even arrives. Capricorn Bowden, upgraded extruder and bed springs to yellow ones and auto level kit. Will get new hot end later.
A video about Ender 3 + Upgrades vs Ender 3 v2 would be cool. Have a budget of $275 for both then put them head to head and see which is better/if you can make the Ender 3 v1 better than the Ender 3 v2 for the same money spent.
The V2 is essentially the Ender 3. The main hurdle to get over is the Ender 3 has the narrow Y axis, where the Pro and V2 have the thicker one. They also have the genuine MEAN WELL power supply (easy $30 Amazon upgrade). After that, you can get the Ender 3 up to par with upgrades, including 32 bit BIGTREETECH SKR mini e3 v2. Etc etc etc etc. And more than likley under $250 to $300 cost of V2. The advantage if Ender 3, many upgrades available for anything having to do with hotend assembly backplate. The V2 is different.
Also check out the Lotmaxx SC-10, larger print volume, 32bit board that can be upgraded to wireless, can be upgraded to dual extrusion, it's a nice machine.
Was very impressed with the B1. Coming from an Ender 3 v1 that broke last year and haven't bothered to fiddle with it to fix I had to pick up the B1 at the promo price listed on AliExpress. The B1 delivered to my house for under $230? Thats a steal to me.
@@biqu7927 Because its being marketed as an Ender 3 clone, will most of the community-made printer parts work for the BIQU B1? Where is the overlap there?
So far i like the idea,but the only thing that worries me with this change is obviously the Wiggling of the connecting ends, maybe all it needs is a simple redesign of the end connectors with a more secure/reliable snap-on method.
Have been waiting for a printer like the BIQI B1 (already w/upgrades ready to print). The upgrade path for a BL Touch on the B1 is very interesting. Please let us know if it is as 'plug and play' as it appears to be. Really looking forward to a more in depth comparison.
My son and I are hoping to buy our first 3D printer. I'm looking forward to the follow up videos on both of these printers. I was about to buy the Ender 3 vs2 but now this video has me thinking of it's competitor BIQU B1
At 12:55 you show the squish at the bottom of the benchy. I have had that issue from the beginning. You said something about the lead screw could possibly be binding in that spot. Did you resolve this issue? I am interested because I haven't resolved mine yet. With that said, I'm really new to 3d printing and the ender3 v2 is my first and only printer so far. Oh ya, thank you for the video!! =)
This is a little off topic, but could you make a video about the BigTreeTech GTR v1.0 and M5 v1.0 Expansion board? I would also like to see a video about its built in Raspberry Pi expansion header and how to get it all connected!
Thank you! Seemed the logical next step was for Biqu to release a printer. I am interested in that new display, does it support thumb drives in Marlin mode? or just Touch mode? like the other Biqu displays? That was a big disappointment when I added a Biqu TFT.
honestly been watching videos of the BIQU, the definition is way better then most especially when dialed in. I wanted to make the project fan before seeing one of these so know it is the main contributor for its feets of accuracy!!! I have a Tevo Tornado Gold edition with Micro Swiss Direct Dual drive (at least I will when the upgrade arrives lol) the BIQU is my next printer
Just as a note, the Processor isnt the same between the skr mini and the Ender 3 V2, the Ender 3 V2 version has proper 512kb of memory, RET6 that does not need a firmware hack to unlock the second 256kb section that may or may not function correctly like on the RCT6 version. TMC 2225 are functionally TMC 2208s with a different package.
If you look at 3:52 in Michael's June 2020 video here ruclips.net/video/mtCz_-2zvZo/видео.html he says the SKR mini E3 v1.2, and now new v2.0 are meant to have only 256kb flash memory (due to RCT6 chip) but in fact turn out to use all of the 512kb program memory.
@@lookitsrain9552 Is it known the firmware hack to expose the full 512kb is less dependable than using a straight RET6, or speculation based on similar previous experiences?
Thanks for the review, I just put an order for the Ender 3 v2 yesterday as wasn't aware of the B1. I'm interested do you think the upgraded v2 rails which I've heard has stronger rails would be better suited to direct drive modifications compared to the v1? Additionally do you know if the v4.2.2. board supports serial interface that is required for say trying to intergrate a prusa MMU2? In your deep dive review could you also show us the extruder setup with out the plastic shield to show any cooling changes.
Hello I'm curious as to which you think is the most easily upgradeable in the future, and which will be best bang for the buck if you have multiple for printing different types of filament.
@@TeachingTech Yes please Michael, I guess it would be AWESOME and it will require some skills in editing but you can do it please please please Also, I can see Markforged ads with your videos, then we can see the secret Vampire Markforged ads :) Michael I really like your Australian British humour. I really loved Benny Hill and Rowan Atkinson.
Is it possible to print on ender 3 v2 some bust without loosing too much detail? Or having visible lines? I'm really digging to buy an fdm and use it to print my sculpts.. Thank you for the nice vid! :)
Received my BIQU B1 yesterday. Done several hours of print with Ender 3 pro and decided to upgrade. Ender's tooo loud. Not great first impression with BIQU tbh. Bed under the metal sheet got uneven surface because of four supporting screws not being flat with the bed surface! I got bumps in all 4 corners. Circle fan duct on hot end is broken on one corner (screw loop feel off). Power supply main + cable was totally loose by motherboard connector. Power supply is generic model(hoping it will last and have enough power) non branded, not even the one that is in the video! Did you experience any of above? I am dissapointed especially because of bumps in the bed, it will make bed levelling much harder. Wonder g how to fix that. Peeling off sticker probably is the only way :(
Check the PSU earth to Ender 3 V2 metalwork on mine the black powder coating was insulating it from the printer. I added a wire from the PSU earth to the long screw in the carrier frame into the 40x40. The printer seems earthed now.
Hi MIchael, great video! When you do your review could you please test BLTouch v3.1 integration on the Ender 3v2? I've been having some issues with my BLTouch occasionally failing and causing the nozzle to collide with the bed during probing. Could you please also demonstrate the use of the Z-offset tuning and how that differs from the babystep-z function?
Can you make a review of the FOKOOS 3D Printer Odin-5 F3 Foldable? Some 3D experts say Its the best printer for the price now. Thanks for your videos they are helping me allot to get better and better. Keep the good work. Happy 3D printing.
The old way to get rid of binding >>> Remove lead screw and nut. Get some grinding paste and apply it to the area that is binding and screw back and forth till it eases . If you don't have grinding paste make some. Get a sheet of 240/400/600 wet n dry sand paper . Scrape it with a box cutter blade or hacksaw blade and catch the dust . Then mix the dust with a couple of drops of engine oil / cooking oil and you have grinding paste. a bit messy but it works
@@bigfilsing That will leave grinding paste embedded in the brass nut, not a good thing as it will keep grinding. Cleaning will not get that out of the brass.
@@gerritvisser In theory yes but it would be so extremely minimal ( assuming a good wash out with IPA or brake clean takes place after easing the stiff spot) that i wouldn't consider it a problem. Certainly not with a good lubricant. At the very least it would help for a couple of hundred printing hours until a replacement or upgrade is found. Of course you could hope the "stiff" spot in on the lead screw . Cover the lead screw problem area with a marker pen the run it in the nut and see where the ink is rubbed away then attack that area with a file or emery cloth
how could u fix the issue with the ender 3 V2 squishing the first few layers? I am getting my first printer in a few days and i'm afraid I will have this too and now knowledge how to fix it... if been reading and watching a lot about the printer and fixing stuff but I have not seen this defect before... how would u go about fixing this?
The vase mode print clearly shows the pink was cleaner but that also might be a ligh and colour. The grey has vertical lines near the top but none can be seen in the pink. You need to print same colour filament and same speed, acc and jerk. Retraction settings can be different as this really affects stringing. Test print i would like to see a overhang test in ALL directions. So arrange 4 minimum overhang arches. This test shows the effectiveness of that cooler/ duct design.
Having tested both, do you have any thoughts on how the Ender 3 V2 compares to the Ender 5 (or, maybe more fairily, the Ender 5 Pro)? Which one offers the best bang for the buck? Are there significant improvements in print quality?
The BIQU B1 is a surprising competitor with the flexible print bed and cooling from two sides and dual mode touch screen. That alone is a lot of value. The USB C connector worries me because a heater cartridge, fans, and lights will draw very close to 5A (it was pointed out in later replies that I was wrong, my bad) and my phone at best draws 1.5-1.7A @5V from a high quality consumer USB C wire and 5A supply. It's really not intended for high amp 24V systems, especially under constant flexing. Would also be nice if the retraction were properly tuned. - The lead screw binding is maybe a bit difficult for beginners and some experienced users to diagnose on the Ender 3 V2. The glass bed also means no inductive probe and flexible magnetic beds are expensive. Weird they cheaped out a filament sensor. Am I seeing Creality pull an intel where they handicap products to not kill more expensive offerings? - Frankly surprising auto bed leveling is not standard on either considering how cheap inductive probes are these days.
You can get 5A rated USB C cables. It's also entirely possible they're doubling up on wires in a non-standard way to get better current carrying ability.
My phone charges at 5 A / 10 V over a beefy USB-C cable with no issues. A 40 W heater at 24 V is less than two amps, and the rest is pretty much negligible.
@@174wolf 40W = 24V*1.67A, each of the three fans maybe draws .15-.25A, LED draws .02A So 1.67A+3*.25A+2x.02A=2.46A so yup, you're right it is within spec, I got 12V heater cartridges mixed up which would have been 4.12A draw. My bad. I still don't like USB C for a CNC moving tool head, makes me too nervous because of how easily I can unplug it. Crazy phone btw, what you got? I have an oukitel K12, 5V 5A fast charge over USB C.
@@fgbhrl4907 i bought 5A usb C cables and quality control is not the best. Not a fan of hacking connectors for consumer products, for a hobbyist tinkering, maybe, but not safe around kids or beginners. At least using ATX pins with some kind of retension clip would be the bare minimum of safe. USB C is much too easily unplugged.
Hey mike can you do a tutorial for formatting and cards from scratch for breakout machines because mine are failing and nobody has anything out there that explains it as fluidly as you do!
Could you tell us how we would go about fixing the compressed layer issue on the Ender 3 V2 that prevented the collapsible basket from printing properly? I'm new to 3d printing and just ordered the V2 and am interested in printing this design. Thanks.
Thanks for the material. I am yet to get a 3D print and at the moment I'm thinking the BIQU B1 is going to be my first step. (mostly due to your review actually) Question for you or anyone else reading. Just how far can the Ender 3 platform be taken. Can it be made into A.) a low maintenance and reliable printer. One that just works really reliably/repeatably but possibly with only limited filament selection. B.) a super amazing be all and end all printer for a wide range of filaments and with really precise repeatable results. I gather from reading and watching youtube material that it can really do with these upgrades to get the most out of it. 1.) BLTorch for auto leveling 2.) all metal hot end (like the micro swiss unit) 3.) direct drive ( combine with the all metal hot end) 4.) dual Z axis upgrade ( possibly one with two stepper motors or a bigger single one upgrade) 5.) Newer 32bit board if not already installed. ( possibly going as far as the Duet wifi board!) 6.) a new bed plate may be needed depending what is supplied. 7.) it may also enjoy additional Z tower support to make it more ridged. 8.) an insulated box to improve general print consistency and allow hotter prints. (possibly with additional heating in the box) . . . .. there are many the lists of 10 and 24 best upgrades. Its obvious that someone can get a bit lost in the vast number of upgrades. Can you comment on what would give the results of A.) a low maintenance and reliable printer. and B.) a super amazing be all and end all printer. Do you know any upgrade material already created that give these ? Thanks and keep making the good material.
PLEASE test out sensorless auto bed leveling! Why are we not using sensorless homing to auto level the bed??? Sensorless homing is come a long why in the last few years!
It's not recommended with lead screws. There is a lot of variation in the resistance of the lead screw turning from printer to printer depending on alignment, etc. Risky.
Ender 3 v2 or Ender 5? Torn between the two. Larger size for the ender 5 isn't a big factor for me, but wondering if the extra $30 for the 5 is worth it. Seems like the features are very similar.
I need help with my biqu b1 sometimes it print and sometimes not the filament entrance make just a click noise and little bit get extruded im new in 3d printing and also did try to change the nozzle but i didn't know how it doesn't move when i try to get it out
Could you please do a guide on installing the BLTouch to the ender 3 v2, as it has a dedicated port for a BLTouch, and there is a official firmware release on the creality site for the V2 that supports the BLTouch, but as it so new, there seems to be a lot of opinions floating around on how to use it. There is no guide on how to use the officially release BLTouch firmware, only guides for home made bodged firmware, of which there seems to be many. Some say you can not have you Z axis limiting switch, and others say you can have both the BLTouch and the Z Axis limit switch just fine. I think the latter should be the intended usage. It seems stupid to me that they would include a dedicated port for a BLTouch and then expect the user to rewire the 5 pin connection so half goes to the dedicated port and then some wires to the Z axis port disabling the limit switch. I have only had the printer two days and I'm a complete beginner to it all. Had a few successful prints so far but bed levelling has threw up some issues that I wish to resolve. I have a creality BLT touch kit, but no idea how to mount it. Any help would be great, Nice Videos.
Go there I just found that today and even has a bracket on thingiverse you need to download to print it to Mount to bL touch shows you where the wires go and how to change all the settings
I feel like the entire video he was saying how the B1 was better in almost every category, but when it got to the end he still said the Ender 3 was better
B1 have poor decisions in design that he doesn't mention yet: 1.Type C for hot end? I can already bet it will have problems with burned down connections and/or circuit board in the hot end sooner rather than later. 2. Upgrading to direct extrusion also will be more awkward due to Type C connection existing there. 3. Weird brackets for pillars and base of sheet metal will make it harder to add dual Z motor compared to aluminium extrusion base. 4. Pink color (just kidding... or not) Really the only real advantage it have is board. And considering that, why even bother with Ender 3 V2 or B1? You can get Ender 3 Pro version with MW power supply for 170 Euro, slap in it SKR v1.4 with 5x tmc2208 and touch+knob screen for 40 Euro and have 20-50 Eur left for dual z or filament or bl touch or whatever.
@@vygag 1. I am sure they are not that stupid and made sure the cable they supply can withstand the hotend heater's current. Also, if you do quick google search, you'll find that type C cables which can take 5A are quite common. 2. I don't see how it can make it harder to upgrade to direct. You might just needed longer cable for the extruder motor. 3. Most people won't be doing that. 4. The color doesn't influence the functionality in any way.
I just got a Endor 3 and I don't know how to add it to meshmixer. Do you have a video on setting up a Endor 3 on meshmixer or know someone who has one? I tried to set it up but ended in failure because I couldn't get a hold of all the info. Thank you for your time.
Great video. I would love to see how difficult it would be to upgrade the hotend or the fans/duct on the biqu. Possibly compare converting to direct drive as well? Edit: after some thought, I think the biqu would be a better choice. It has more upgrades that users usually add so that would save some money. And even adding the other optional upgrades is easier like the bl touch. Now QC is what I wonder about.. Niether are known for the best QC but we'll see
Nice video ! As always. I have the same problem of compressed layer on my printer but my firsts layer are near perfect. What causes this and how can I fix it ?
I have the same problem. Some say the z-axis is binding, over extrusion of filament or under extrusion and having the bed height set to low or to heigh depending if you're extruder is doing one of the above? Measure the first layer height and width. Maybe it will tell you something? My first layer is always perfect, but the second is where I need to lower the bed just a little bit, and then everything is fine.
I bought a biqu thunder and the customer service is horrible. I cannot find replacement parts for it. It seems like a waste of money will never buy from Biqu again. I am however bitten by the printing bug and am thinking of the ender 3 as a replacement for the thunder.
I want to see if the new stepper drivers really are quieter or if they have any better function. Time to watch for blow out prices on the old one or wait for a new one..Either waycould be a win.
I think I'd trust Creality to build a better working printer in general but Bigtreetech are a popular aftermarket company and I could see them doing very well by selling their own printers which will become more refined over time. The B1 definitely seems quite well thought out in its own right rather than some dumb clone.
I believe that prusaslicer has a setting called something along the lines of "elephants foot compensation" Wich makes the first layer slightly smaller to account for it being too close to the bottom. (I don't use prusaslicer though but I think I heard someone say that it could do that once.)
@@timd9430 yeah, that is if you are only trying to get rid of the "elephants foot" but most people squish the bottom layer in order to get a smoother surface on the bottom of the print.
@@TeachingTech learn something useful everyday... especially from Teaching Tech! Thanks! Any idea how to reduce that "elephants foot" 2-3 layers in Cura or any other method with the printer? I guess really, what is the main cause of elephant's foot and how to avoid it? Sometimes I wonder if the bed too hot? Seems different kinds of bed materials result in different outcomes. i.e. TEXTURED powder coated PEI flex sheet seems to get much hotter than say Creality magnetic flexible magnet sheet (not the steel kind). Thank you.
Generally it's because the first layer is too close or the extrusion multiplier for that layer is too high. Having said that it's not that easy because you may need it this way for the filament to stick. Some slicers have compensation which you can use to tune it out.
Wow, early this year I mentioned on Proper Printings ender upgrades (custom connector) that a USB Type-C cable and break out boards would work really well for hotends given their design is capable of 80W+ and has many conductors... I'd love to see how BIQU have actually achieved this? i.e. the breakout boards they have used etc. I'd love to apply the same to my custom Hypercube Evolution (Linear rails + E3D Hemera).
Same, I'd love to pop one on my AnyCubic Predator Delta, I'm in the middle of building a new wiring harness and decided to chop up an HDMI cable for all but the heating element. USB-C breakouts are available, I may give it a go.
HI printers, i need help, i use marlin 2.0.6. when i make a G28, my nozzle goes out of bed on y an x and nozzle does not go in middle of my bed. really need help, three days i try day and night. card: skr 1.4 turb
I cant help feeling that there is just a smidgen of bias towards the Ender 3, especially if the intended target is a new user. Don't get me wrong, I am a big Creality fan, one of my printers is my CR10S pro V2 and I just bought an Ender 3 Pro for my SIL's 60th birthday. For me the BIQU's SKR V1.4 and the BLTouch readiness are no brainers.
I have to question everything you have ever said. I was a fresh noob never built a printer or used a slicer. I just got my ender v2 friday. I took my time to assemble it and level. I then used stock cura ender 3 settings sliced and printed. My benchy was perfection better then any you have ever done on any printer review. I then printed the basket it came out flawless. I'm not sure if these bad prints you get are due to incompetence or if they are done to push more expensive printer that sponsor you. All i know for sure is you lots 1 subscriber
Hi, Michael! About BIQU: Is that USB-C cable fine for such a job? I mean that it's litereally not fixed strongly... And what's about bending? How much cycles it can pass without breaking?
if it can handle the current for the hot end...but - even if it breaks - I can get these cables locally by the dozen. MY Chiron, i just waited 64 days to get one replacement cable...
I bought an Ender 5 Pro from Creality China that arrived last week (to NZ) and it came with the 4.2.2 board. Confused me quite a bit as a beginner expecting a v1.1.5 until the SKR E3 Mini v2.0 I ordered arrived.
I accidentally came across this video when I was looking for information about V2! Please tell me which of these printers to choose as the first one. In technical terms, I understand that BIQU B1 is better. If you buy BIQU B1, will there be any problems with searching for information about IT - about upgrades, repairs, firmware, etc.
Bigtreetech usually make their parts open source with detailed docs on their github. The parts in this printer are well known and popular so support should be good. A lot depends on how much info Creality release for the new 32 bit board. The Marlin devs already have an example configuration setup for the V2 so maybe we won't need Creality at all.
Look like the B1 is ahead of the Ender 3 V2 when you take into account everything that's fitted inside the machine. All of the said "Upgrades" of the ender 3 v2 is tbh a user preference kind of thing which makes the ender 3 v2 less appealing. Great video btw!
BIQU B1 is ideal candidate for RepRapFirmware and Dynamic Acceleration Adjustment tuning.
I'd love like a ranking video of all of the budget 3d printers (that you've used, at least) for when I buy my next one
wow thank you so much the quality of your breakdowns are amazing
i just brought the Biqu B1 and its incredible!! bl touch is a pain in the arse to try set up but prints come out mint!
Great video Michael, really nice to see comparison. I am a big fan of the Ender 3, as I am of the SKR 1.4 board. Thank you for this video.
Can you have them both print an overhang torture test? I am interested to see if the additional part cooling makes a difference.
Oh well great video, at least someone did get the BIQU B1 to use for testing and using! I wondered already, which board they were going to use, I thought the 2.0 but they used the 1.4 board instead...
really interested in the Type "C" connections and sub board. can you show this and the connections used? ( thank you in advance )
Yeah, I really want to see what's inside that extruder enclosure.
The most stupid thing i have seen on 3D printers :D
After several hundred prints it must be wiggled af.
Im glad you got the ender 3 v2 finally. Can you do a tune tutorial? I have some issues with it
@Teaching Tech Can you tell me which device did you use to make RPi more stable, without losing connection . I am sorry for question not related to this video
I have just purchased the Ender 3 V2 and I am very happy with it, I think I made the right choice. Thanks for the comparison, as always you are clear and concise. How about a video on fitting a BL Touch to the V2, it looks like there is already a socket on the main board to accommodate it.
I'd love to see a video for this as well.
It probably won't be in the review, but there's a fair chance I'll make a guide video for that.
Please do! I ordered my bltouch and it should be here Thursday. I'm probably smart enough to figure it out on my own, but I can't get my bed to consistently level, so I may be full of it
That's what my mistake was. I asked them if I could put a bltouch on the Ender 3 V2 they told me it doesn't come with the function but you could put one on there so I bought the printer and bltouch and now that I have the bltouch and the printer the bracket doesn't Mount up like it should and they finally got back to me and told me that they haven't even started developing the firmware for the bltouch for the Ender 3 V2 I've been looking everywhere 4 something I just figured I'd let you guys know waste your money on a kit all you need is the bltouch in The Wire you're going to have to print a bltouch bracket for it cuz the one that supposedly says it fits that printer doesn't line up
Thanks for the great details of this video. Looking forward to see Bltouch upgrade for Ender 3 v2 as it said already has slot prepared for it but so far nobody really cover in details.
Thank you. I'm wanting to take the plunge & wanting to know what to buy. Your vids are sooo much help.
I had the same problem with the first layer, it always looked way overextruded despite the flow being reduced to 90% (really it only affected the first layer) so it tried a cura version below 4.6.0 which fixed the problem for me. But making very large prints with cura I‘ve always suffered from defects so I switched to simplify3d and prusa slicer which solved the problems for me.
any update on this? i've got the same issue. how can the slicer be the problem?
Actually, I figured it out. I noticed that the right side was getting more smushed than the left, so figured it could be due to gantry sag. I installed a dual z-axis kit and it solved the issue. I actually used a combination of parts from the single-motor dual axis kit, and the creality dual-motor kit, because the single-motor kit parts actually have some advantages, i.e. the top mounting brackets allow for further travel, so your z-axis doesn't get shortened, the rods are longer, and the gantry mounting bracket is lighter. So the only thing I used from the creality dual-motor kit was the stepper motor plus mount and wiring harness. Best of both worlds, and the first print turned out perfect. I just wish the gantry sag hadn't destroyed my PEI flexible heated bed surface before I figured it out... Now to get started on swapping in the linear rail kit...
Interested in the ease or not of adding BLTouch to both machines, and any firmware updates that might be necessary. How to set a Z-offset. Thanks for the video!
Seems pretty clear to me Teaching Tech mentioned the BLTouch is practically plug and play.
I’m waiting for my ender 3 v2 turn up as my first printer. Were u able to fix the collapsible basket? Are there any upgrades you would do on the ender 3 v2?
@@dennismoore623 The new Firmware update with Bltouch is out since 29. August. I hope this will help you.
Hey I would love to see a video about closed loop steppers and how they can be integrated into a printer using an SKR 1.4! Any plans to make one?
Thanks Michael! I'd love to see a test of adding a BL Touch to the B1 (or both printers) during the review, although I know that is a bit beyond the scope of a normal review. Maybe justified with the inclusion of that bracket, port on the back, and the firmware already being prepared?
You can join our Facebook group(BIQU B1 3D Printer User Group). There are customers who buy B1 and share videos using BL touch.
I second that, would be great to understand Closed Loop Steppers and their benefits
Glad I went with the ender 3 V2. Bought some of the common upgrades before it even arrives. Capricorn Bowden, upgraded extruder and bed springs to yellow ones and auto level kit. Will get new hot end later.
A video about Ender 3 + Upgrades vs Ender 3 v2 would be cool.
Have a budget of $275 for both then put them head to head and see which is better/if you can make the Ender 3 v1 better than the Ender 3 v2 for the same money spent.
The V2 is essentially the Ender 3.
The main hurdle to get over is the Ender 3 has the narrow Y axis, where the Pro and V2 have the thicker one. They also have the genuine MEAN WELL power supply (easy $30 Amazon upgrade).
After that, you can get the Ender 3 up to par with upgrades, including 32 bit BIGTREETECH SKR mini e3 v2. Etc etc etc etc. And more than likley under $250 to $300 cost of V2. The advantage if Ender 3, many upgrades available for anything having to do with hotend assembly backplate. The V2 is different.
Also check out the Lotmaxx SC-10, larger print volume, 32bit board that can be upgraded to wireless, can be upgraded to dual extrusion, it's a nice machine.
Was very impressed with the B1. Coming from an Ender 3 v1 that broke last year and haven't bothered to fiddle with it to fix I had to pick up the B1 at the promo price listed on AliExpress. The B1 delivered to my house for under $230? Thats a steal to me.
The promotion price is only once. It's really affordable.
@@biqu7927 Because its being marketed as an Ender 3 clone, will most of the community-made printer parts work for the BIQU B1? Where is the overlap there?
So far i like the idea,but the only thing that worries me with this change is obviously the Wiggling of the connecting ends, maybe all it needs is a simple redesign of the end connectors with a more secure/reliable snap-on method.
Have been waiting for a printer like the BIQI B1 (already w/upgrades ready to print). The upgrade path for a BL Touch on the B1 is very interesting. Please let us know if it is as 'plug and play' as it appears to be. Really looking forward to a more in depth comparison.
Hello, this is the installation video of b1 bltouch you need. ruclips.net/video/vtW7WoUI13A/видео.html
The fact I can get the ender on Amazon quickly makes it more desirable. The same will probably go for parts.
My son and I are hoping to buy our first 3D printer. I'm looking forward to the follow up videos on both of these printers. I was about to buy the Ender 3 vs2 but now this video has me thinking of it's competitor BIQU B1
Buy Ender 3. There will always be people who can help with advice.
Ender 3 V2 all the way, poster above is right, support community is huge
At 12:55 you show the squish at the bottom of the benchy. I have had that issue from the beginning. You said something about the lead screw could possibly be binding in that spot. Did you resolve this issue? I am interested because I haven't resolved mine yet. With that said, I'm really new to 3d printing and the ender3 v2 is my first and only printer so far. Oh ya, thank you for the video!! =)
This is a little off topic, but could you make a video about the BigTreeTech GTR v1.0 and M5 v1.0 Expansion board? I would also like to see a video about its built in Raspberry Pi expansion header and how to get it all connected!
Plus 1 for the Williams jacket!
Since they may be sold and lose the name, I had to get some merch with Williams on it.
Thank you! Seemed the logical next step was for Biqu to release a printer. I am interested in that new display, does it support thumb drives in Marlin mode? or just Touch mode? like the other Biqu displays? That was a big disappointment when I added a Biqu TFT.
Hi bud im a bit stuck on which board pin to use to drive the neopixels, any help would be appreciated
honestly been watching videos of the BIQU, the definition is way better then most especially when dialed in. I wanted to make the project fan before seeing one of these so know it is the main contributor for its feets of accuracy!!! I have a Tevo Tornado Gold edition with Micro Swiss Direct Dual drive (at least I will when the upgrade arrives lol) the BIQU is my next printer
Just as a note, the Processor isnt the same between the skr mini and the Ender 3 V2, the Ender 3 V2 version has proper 512kb of memory, RET6 that does not need a firmware hack to unlock the second 256kb section that may or may not function correctly like on the RCT6 version. TMC 2225 are functionally TMC 2208s with a different package.
If you look at 3:52 in Michael's June 2020 video here ruclips.net/video/mtCz_-2zvZo/видео.html he says the SKR mini E3 v1.2, and now new v2.0 are meant to have only 256kb flash memory (due to RCT6 chip) but in fact turn out to use all of the 512kb program memory.
@@paulnoonan4715 You should probably read my post
@@lookitsrain9552 Is it known the firmware hack to expose the full 512kb is less dependable than using a straight RET6, or speculation based on similar previous experiences?
Thanks for the review, I just put an order for the Ender 3 v2 yesterday as wasn't aware of the B1. I'm interested do you think the upgraded v2 rails which I've heard has stronger rails would be better suited to direct drive modifications compared to the v1? Additionally do you know if the v4.2.2. board supports serial interface that is required for say trying to intergrate a prusa MMU2? In your deep dive review could you also show us the extruder setup with out the plastic shield to show any cooling changes.
in your review could you do some extreme support tests to show if the biqi fan system makes supports come off cleaner
Agreed, thank you.
Hello I'm curious as to which you think is the most easily upgradeable in the future, and which will be best bang for the buck if you have multiple for printing different types of filament.
Michael is talented in DIY and 3D printing, skilled in impartial testing and he is my favorite vampire.
I'm thinking about editing in some glowing red eyes at the end of one video just to see if people notice.
@@TeachingTech Yes please Michael, I guess it would be AWESOME and it will require some skills in editing but you can do it please please please
Also, I can see Markforged ads with your videos, then we can see the secret Vampire Markforged ads :)
Michael I really like your Australian British humour. I really loved Benny Hill and Rowan Atkinson.
does the BIQU B1 32-bit 3D come with an extender for the xyz like ender 3?
Is it possible to print on ender 3 v2 some bust without loosing too much detail? Or having visible lines?
I'm really digging to buy an fdm and use it to print my sculpts..
Thank you for the nice vid! :)
Have you ever considered to build an enclosure for one of those. I built one for my Prusa Mk3s and it works great. Take a look - you might like it :)
Nice video. I was wondering, if you had an opinion of what top upgrades for a ender 5 would be.
Bed support braces.
Received my BIQU B1 yesterday. Done several hours of print with Ender 3 pro and decided to upgrade. Ender's tooo loud. Not great first impression with BIQU tbh. Bed under the metal sheet got uneven surface because of four supporting screws not being flat with the bed surface! I got bumps in all 4 corners. Circle fan duct on hot end is broken on one corner (screw loop feel off). Power supply main + cable was totally loose by motherboard connector. Power supply is generic model(hoping it will last and have enough power) non branded, not even the one that is in the video! Did you experience any of above? I am dissapointed especially because of bumps in the bed, it will make bed levelling much harder. Wonder g how to fix that. Peeling off sticker probably is the only way :(
One thing you didn't cover was the hotend for the BIQU is it a standard ender style hotend? Can you go more in depth with the usb connection as well?!
Will do both, thanks for the suggestions.
Check the PSU earth to Ender 3 V2 metalwork on mine the black powder coating was insulating it from the printer. I added a wire from the PSU earth to the long screw in the carrier frame into the 40x40. The printer seems earthed now.
Have you thought about doing the 2 in 1 out upgrade for the BIQU B1
Hi MIchael, great video! When you do your review could you please test BLTouch v3.1 integration on the Ender 3v2? I've been having some issues with my BLTouch occasionally failing and causing the nozzle to collide with the bed during probing. Could you please also demonstrate the use of the Z-offset tuning and how that differs from the babystep-z function?
Can you make a review of the FOKOOS 3D Printer Odin-5 F3 Foldable? Some 3D experts say Its the best printer for the price now. Thanks for your videos they are helping me allot to get better and better. Keep the good work. Happy 3D printing.
would love to know how you fix the zbinding on ender 3v2 i'm having the same issue and im pretty new to this stuff.
The old way to get rid of binding >>> Remove lead screw and nut. Get some grinding paste and apply it to the area that is binding and screw back and forth till it eases . If you don't have grinding paste make some. Get a sheet of 240/400/600 wet n dry sand paper . Scrape it with a box cutter blade or hacksaw blade and catch the dust . Then mix the dust with a couple of drops of engine oil / cooking oil and you have grinding paste. a bit messy but it works
@@bigfilsing That will leave grinding paste embedded in the brass nut, not a good thing as it will keep grinding. Cleaning will not get that out of the brass.
@@gerritvisser In theory yes but it would be so extremely minimal ( assuming a good wash out with IPA or brake clean takes place after easing the stiff spot) that i wouldn't consider it a problem. Certainly not with a good lubricant. At the very least it would help for a couple of hundred printing hours until a replacement or upgrade is found.
Of course you could hope the "stiff" spot in on the lead screw . Cover the lead screw problem area with a marker pen the run it in the nut and see where the ink is rubbed away then attack that area with a file or emery cloth
Dealt with this today. Spacers and tweaks
Would love to see the CR-6 SE being compared to these two printers
Different class of machines, the CR-6 SE will print better as has been shown many times. It also cost $100+ more than either.
@@timmturner I don't think it will, though. Check out Thomas Sanladerer's vid
I do fpv content and am using a MP and would like to upgrade. Can you test them both with TPU like a GoPro mount for a fpv drone?
Whats your opinion? I am between ender 3 v2 and ender cr 20 pro. What you suggest?
how could u fix the issue with the ender 3 V2 squishing the first few layers? I am getting my first printer in a few days and i'm afraid I will have this too and now knowledge how to fix it... if been reading and watching a lot about the printer and fixing stuff but I have not seen this defect before... how would u go about fixing this?
What is the overall size of both machines including the control box. I need to know if it will fit in an enclosure I already have. Thanks.
Nice to a fellow 3D printing enthusiast AN Williams supporter :)
The vase mode print clearly shows the pink was cleaner but that also might be a ligh and colour. The grey has vertical lines near the top but none can be seen in the pink.
You need to print same colour filament and same speed, acc and jerk. Retraction settings can be different as this really affects stringing.
Test print i would like to see a overhang test in ALL directions. So arrange 4 minimum overhang arches. This test shows the effectiveness of that cooler/ duct design.
Having tested both, do you have any thoughts on how the Ender 3 V2 compares to the Ender 5 (or, maybe more fairily, the Ender 5 Pro)? Which one offers the best bang for the buck? Are there significant improvements in print quality?
Hello,can i install a Inductive type proximity switch instead of a bltouch?(i ask for the BIQU B1)
So for a total newbie, which would you recommend? Or maybe a different one?
I sorta wish both companies just merged or they worked together or something.
Ender seems that can print more filament types than the BQ.Am I right? Thanks.
I am missing an important comparison. The fan noise. I noticed it is loud in E3 V2. What is the case with B B1? Fan has very different design.
Second 32bit mainboard from Creality. Amusingly their CR-100 Children's printer from early 2019 had a 32bit mainboard.
simple fix of copressed layers? could you please tell me.. because i am having trouble with this..
The BIQU B1 is a surprising competitor with the flexible print bed and cooling from two sides and dual mode touch screen. That alone is a lot of value. The USB C connector worries me because a heater cartridge, fans, and lights will draw very close to 5A (it was pointed out in later replies that I was wrong, my bad) and my phone at best draws 1.5-1.7A @5V from a high quality consumer USB C wire and 5A supply. It's really not intended for high amp 24V systems, especially under constant flexing. Would also be nice if the retraction were properly tuned.
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The lead screw binding is maybe a bit difficult for beginners and some experienced users to diagnose on the Ender 3 V2. The glass bed also means no inductive probe and flexible magnetic beds are expensive. Weird they cheaped out a filament sensor. Am I seeing Creality pull an intel where they handicap products to not kill more expensive offerings?
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Frankly surprising auto bed leveling is not standard on either considering how cheap inductive probes are these days.
You can get 5A rated USB C cables. It's also entirely possible they're doubling up on wires in a non-standard way to get better current carrying ability.
My phone charges at 5 A / 10 V over a beefy USB-C cable with no issues.
A 40 W heater at 24 V is less than two amps, and the rest is pretty much negligible.
@@174wolf 40W = 24V*1.67A, each of the three fans maybe draws .15-.25A, LED draws .02A
So 1.67A+3*.25A+2x.02A=2.46A so yup, you're right it is within spec, I got 12V heater cartridges mixed up which would have been 4.12A draw. My bad. I still don't like USB C for a CNC moving tool head, makes me too nervous because of how easily I can unplug it.
Crazy phone btw, what you got? I have an oukitel K12, 5V 5A fast charge over USB C.
@@fgbhrl4907 i bought 5A usb C cables and quality control is not the best. Not a fan of hacking connectors for consumer products, for a hobbyist tinkering, maybe, but not safe around kids or beginners. At least using ATX pins with some kind of retension clip would be the bare minimum of safe. USB C is much too easily unplugged.
I won't be able in internally expect the cable but I'll include some close ups of the breakout boards in the review.
Hey mike can you do a tutorial for formatting and cards from scratch for breakout machines because mine are failing and nobody has anything out there that explains it as fluidly as you do!
Could you tell us how we would go about fixing the compressed layer issue on the Ender 3 V2 that prevented the collapsible basket from printing properly? I'm new to 3d printing and just ordered the V2 and am interested in printing this design. Thanks.
I had the same issue and followed The Edge of Tech's z axis binding video. All good now and no bulge
Thanks for the material. I am yet to get a 3D print and at the moment I'm thinking the BIQU B1 is going to be my first step. (mostly due to your review actually)
Question for you or anyone else reading. Just how far can the Ender 3 platform be taken.
Can it be made into
A.) a low maintenance and reliable printer. One that just works really reliably/repeatably but possibly with only limited filament selection.
B.) a super amazing be all and end all printer for a wide range of filaments and with really precise repeatable results.
I gather from reading and watching youtube material that it can really do with these upgrades to get the most out of it.
1.) BLTorch for auto leveling
2.) all metal hot end (like the micro swiss unit)
3.) direct drive ( combine with the all metal hot end)
4.) dual Z axis upgrade ( possibly one with two stepper motors or a bigger single one upgrade)
5.) Newer 32bit board if not already installed. ( possibly going as far as the Duet wifi board!)
6.) a new bed plate may be needed depending what is supplied.
7.) it may also enjoy additional Z tower support to make it more ridged.
8.) an insulated box to improve general print consistency and allow hotter prints. (possibly with additional heating in the box)
.
.
.
.. there are many the lists of 10 and 24 best upgrades.
Its obvious that someone can get a bit lost in the vast number of upgrades.
Can you comment on what would give the results of A.) a low maintenance and reliable printer. and B.) a super amazing be all and end all printer.
Do you know any upgrade material already created that give these ?
Thanks and keep making the good material.
Well done review!!
PLEASE test out sensorless auto bed leveling!
Why are we not using sensorless homing to auto level the bed???
Sensorless homing is come a long why in the last few years!
Because its very likely it will damage the bed
It's not recommended with lead screws. There is a lot of variation in the resistance of the lead screw turning from printer to printer depending on alignment, etc. Risky.
Ender 3 v2 or Ender 5? Torn between the two. Larger size for the ender 5 isn't a big factor for me, but wondering if the extra $30 for the 5 is worth it. Seems like the features are very similar.
I need help with my biqu b1 sometimes it print and sometimes not the filament entrance make just a click noise and little bit get extruded im new in 3d printing and also did try to change the nozzle but i didn't know how it doesn't move when i try to get it out
Nice to see some nice advancements in the lower price points.
Yes, the price is great this time, and it's also a better configuration.
Could you please do a guide on installing the BLTouch to the ender 3 v2, as it has a dedicated port for a BLTouch, and there is a official firmware release on the creality site for the V2 that supports the BLTouch, but as it so new, there seems to be a lot of opinions floating around on how to use it. There is no guide on how to use the officially release BLTouch firmware, only guides for home made bodged firmware, of which there seems to be many. Some say you can not have you Z axis limiting switch, and others say you can have both the BLTouch and the Z Axis limit switch just fine. I think the latter should be the intended usage. It seems stupid to me that they would include a dedicated port for a BLTouch and then expect the user to rewire the 5 pin connection so half goes to the dedicated port and then some wires to the Z axis port disabling the limit switch. I have only had the printer two days and I'm a complete beginner to it all. Had a few successful prints so far but bed levelling has threw up some issues that I wish to resolve. I have a creality BLT touch kit, but no idea how to mount it. Any help would be great, Nice Videos.
marlin.crc.id.au/firmware/Ender%203%20V2%20-%20BLTouch/
Go there I just found that today and even has a bracket on thingiverse you need to download to print it to Mount to bL touch shows you where the wires go and how to change all the settings
I feel like the entire video he was saying how the B1 was better in almost every category, but when it got to the end he still said the Ender 3 was better
That's exactly what happened.
B1 have poor decisions in design that he doesn't mention yet:
1.Type C for hot end? I can already bet it will have problems with burned down connections and/or circuit board in the hot end sooner rather than later.
2. Upgrading to direct extrusion also will be more awkward due to Type C connection existing there.
3. Weird brackets for pillars and base of sheet metal will make it harder to add dual Z motor compared to aluminium extrusion base.
4. Pink color (just kidding... or not)
Really the only real advantage it have is board. And considering that, why even bother with Ender 3 V2 or B1? You can get Ender 3 Pro version with MW power supply for 170 Euro, slap in it SKR v1.4 with 5x tmc2208 and touch+knob screen for 40 Euro and have 20-50 Eur left for dual z or filament or bl touch or whatever.
@@vygag
1. I am sure they are not that stupid and made sure the cable they supply can withstand the hotend heater's current. Also, if you do quick google search, you'll find that type C cables which can take 5A are quite common.
2. I don't see how it can make it harder to upgrade to direct. You might just needed longer cable for the extruder motor.
3. Most people won't be doing that.
4. The color doesn't influence the functionality in any way.
For past couple of days I'm watching reviews to buy first printer. I can't decide between Ender 3 v2 and Flsun QQ-S pro. Any advice?
Artillery Genius better then both
Have only used the Ender 3 V2 out of those so prefer not to speculate.
I just got a Endor 3 and I don't know how to add it to meshmixer. Do you have a video on setting up a Endor 3 on meshmixer or know someone who has one? I tried to set it up but ended in failure because I couldn't get a hold of all the info. Thank you for your time.
How would you fix the binding lead screw? mines exactly the same as the one in this vid.
Is it not BIQU B1?
Great video.
I would love to see how difficult it would be to upgrade the hotend or the fans/duct on the biqu.
Possibly compare converting to direct drive as well?
Edit: after some thought, I think the biqu would be a better choice. It has more upgrades that users usually add so that would save some money. And even adding the other optional upgrades is easier like the bl touch.
Now QC is what I wonder about..
Niether are known for the best QC but we'll see
you can upgrade it , but need design a case.
Nice video ! As always.
I have the same problem of compressed layer on my printer but my firsts layer are near perfect. What causes this and how can I fix it ?
I have the same problem. Some say the z-axis is binding, over extrusion of filament or under extrusion and having the bed height set to low or to heigh depending if you're extruder is doing one of the above? Measure the first layer height and width. Maybe it will tell you something? My first layer is always perfect, but the second is where I need to lower the bed just a little bit, and then everything is fine.
I bought a biqu thunder and the customer service is horrible. I cannot find replacement parts for it. It seems like a waste of money will never buy from Biqu again. I am however bitten by the printing bug and am thinking of the ender 3 as a replacement for the thunder.
I want to see if the new stepper drivers really are quieter or if they have any better function. Time to watch for blow out prices on the old one or wait for a new one..Either waycould be a win.
I think I'd trust Creality to build a better working printer in general but Bigtreetech are a popular aftermarket company and I could see them doing very well by selling their own printers which will become more refined over time. The B1 definitely seems quite well thought out in its own right rather than some dumb clone.
Yes, we have been focusing on R & D to provide customers with a better printing experience.
I believe that prusaslicer has a setting called something along the lines of "elephants foot compensation" Wich makes the first layer slightly smaller to account for it being too close to the bottom. (I don't use prusaslicer though but I think I heard someone say that it could do that once.)
Could print a small raft also.
@@timd9430 yeah, that is if you are only trying to get rid of the "elephants foot" but most people squish the bottom layer in order to get a smoother surface on the bottom of the print.
The first layer is not compressed so it's not elephant's foot. The compression starts 2-3 layers in.
@@TeachingTech learn something useful everyday... especially from Teaching Tech! Thanks! Any idea how to reduce that "elephants foot" 2-3 layers in Cura or any other method with the printer? I guess really, what is the main cause of elephant's foot and how to avoid it? Sometimes I wonder if the bed too hot? Seems different kinds of bed materials result in different outcomes. i.e. TEXTURED powder coated PEI flex sheet seems to get much hotter than say Creality magnetic flexible magnet sheet (not the steel kind). Thank you.
Generally it's because the first layer is too close or the extrusion multiplier for that layer is too high. Having said that it's not that easy because you may need it this way for the filament to stick. Some slicers have compensation which you can use to tune it out.
Great video!
Wow, early this year I mentioned on Proper Printings ender upgrades (custom connector) that a USB Type-C cable and break out boards would work really well for hotends given their design is capable of 80W+ and has many conductors... I'd love to see how BIQU have actually achieved this? i.e. the breakout boards they have used etc. I'd love to apply the same to my custom Hypercube Evolution (Linear rails + E3D Hemera).
Same, I'd love to pop one on my AnyCubic Predator Delta, I'm in the middle of building a new wiring harness and decided to chop up an HDMI cable for all but the heating element. USB-C breakouts are available, I may give it a go.
I will show some close ups of the USB type C break out boards in the review.
HI printers, i need help, i use marlin 2.0.6. when i make a G28, my nozzle goes out of bed on y an x and nozzle does not go in middle of my bed.
really need help, three days i try day and night.
card: skr 1.4 turb
Can you please make a video on the trianglelabs dragon hotend? Bcz I am confused whether the e3d v6 is the option for me or trianglelabs dragon hotend
How about noise level of both printers? Any improvements on the Ender 3 V2? How's the B1 in comparison?
Noise is a major decision factor.
The v2 is pretty much silent.. it’s amazing
Great approach to compare the two printers
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
I cant help feeling that there is just a smidgen of bias towards the Ender 3, especially if the intended target is a new user.
Don't get me wrong, I am a big Creality fan, one of my printers is my CR10S pro V2 and I just bought an Ender 3 Pro for my SIL's 60th birthday.
For me the BIQU's SKR V1.4 and the BLTouch readiness are no brainers.
I have to question everything you have ever said. I was a fresh noob never built a printer or used a slicer. I just got my ender v2 friday. I took my time to assemble it and level. I then used stock cura ender 3 settings sliced and printed. My benchy was perfection better then any you have ever done on any printer review. I then printed the basket it came out flawless. I'm not sure if these bad prints you get are due to incompetence or if they are done to push more expensive printer that sponsor you. All i know for sure is you lots 1 subscriber
Hi, Michael! About BIQU: Is that USB-C cable fine for such a job? I mean that it's litereally not fixed strongly... And what's about bending? How much cycles it can pass without breaking?
if it can handle the current for the hot end...but - even if it breaks - I can get these cables locally by the dozen. MY Chiron, i just waited 64 days to get one replacement cable...
Which one am I better of with to print nylon I assume I need to upgrade the hot end.
I bought an Ender 5 Pro from Creality China that arrived last week (to NZ) and it came with the 4.2.2 board. Confused me quite a bit as a beginner expecting a v1.1.5 until the SKR E3 Mini v2.0 I ordered arrived.
The V2 doesn’t support Linear Advance is this a big issue?
Glad the v2 seems good jsut purchased one, now into the 3D printing rabbit hole and, Go Williams! so deppressing dude haha but still support them.
I accidentally came across this video when I was looking for information about V2! Please tell me which of these printers to choose as the first one. In technical terms, I understand that BIQU B1 is better. If you buy BIQU B1, will there be any problems with searching for information about IT - about upgrades, repairs, firmware, etc.
Bigtreetech usually make their parts open source with detailed docs on their github. The parts in this printer are well known and popular so support should be good.
A lot depends on how much info Creality release for the new 32 bit board. The Marlin devs already have an example configuration setup for the V2 so maybe we won't need Creality at all.
How about testing/demoing printing from connected computer? I like printing from simpilfy3d not from cards
The BIQU looks a lot like the Zyltech. I wonder if they're OEM-ing.
Is there any inexpensive printer that has linear advance out of the box?