Sharpening of pruning shears

If we work hard with our scissors, then four things must be done. After work, it has to be cleaned, oiled after a week, oiled at times, and when it is shed, we have to sharpen the blade. FELCO's company sells such small tools as oil that I don't think will attack the handle to keep the scissors apart. A fine steel that I can insert between the blades and a magnificence that is suitable for sharpening the blades with different grain sizes on both sides. My first job is to clean up. I'm offering you an ordinary dry piece of cloth for this job. I'm sure the steel parts would prefer an oily cloth or an oily cloth, but I'm afraid of these materials because they're quick to attack plastic. That's why if I needed some kind of liquid to clean, I'd only use the factory's recommendation. This will help remove the dirty parts as well. The next thing you know, if I'm past this and the scissors are dry, it's the one that's alive. There are special tools for this, too. That's what I'd do after every long day of work when I used the scissors for a long time and the blade was clean. It's a happy blade that needs to be pulled loosely through the edge of the cutting blade without exerting any kind of pressure. It's the only thing alive that can fix it. If there's a line on the other side, I'm only gonna go through it once, and I'm not gonna play with the vidia. If I don't have this video pull-off, I can do the same thing every day with this tiny piece of steel after an incision. It's got a diamond coating, and I'm gonna hold the scissors with the tip towards me, and I'm gonna put my finger on the tip if I dare, and I'm gonna pull a little more pressure on the blades to pull the edge of this goal. This is only suitable to correct errors that are not at all visible to the very tiny eye. And now for the week's work. Actually, it's a high-pitched steel finish. Its entire surface is diamond-coated, and it is very suitable for putting the edge on the cutting blade of the scissors once a week. The factory offers a 23-degree angle for these movements, and if I'm done with it, then on the other side, remove only five degrees and preferably only one or two moves. Once a hedgehog got stuck in our wire mesh fence, and suddenly I couldn't cut it out, couldn't fit in next to the fat hedgehog other than the pickpocket county. The scissors were surprisingly easy to cut, the hedgehog was released, but I could grind the blade with this spike for an hour until I got rid of it. Colorful or darker, where appropriate, the blue side is rougher grain, it is almost diamond hard corundum, and it is also recommended at an angle of 23 degrees that we sharpen it this way, after about a month's work, or if we have damaged something on the blade. The white side, or bright side, is suitable for final smoothing. If there's any damage to the other side from the longer sharpening, we can pull it down with a single motion. In summary, after each session, cleaning with a dry cloth, at the end of the day, pulling the edge with the edge of the vidia or diamond-coated high steel, once a week, sharpening with the high steel, and monthly sharpening with the bilateral stone.