Hi Rob ! Very interesting stuff you do there ! For my next pour I'll try make some of your shapes as the first melting from the beer cans. I think that jaw protector with the V's in it is a very good idea and worth copying ;-))
Thanks for sharing Rob! That HSS really left a great finish, definitely the way to go. I like that homemade aluminum stock of yours, I'm saving my scrap now and plan to build a furnace soon. Your videos are a great help!
Buying aluminium from the shop is just so expensive. Same for brass. Casting your own aluminium is easy and not expensive to do. That Toyota wheel rim alloy is top stuff. Cheers Rob
Those inserts work beautifully in a fly cutter. Stock removal rate is good and surface finish is perfect. I spray a little WD40 as a lube and it works very well.
Excellent comparison video. On the economics of casting: I'm fortunate to live near a scrapyard where I regularly find usable off-cuts for cheap ($1.30/lb), so casting blanks wouldn't really be a money-saver for me. However, I still want to learn how to do it, and I enjoy your experiments. One day I will try it.
G'day mate. That pretty much is obvious proof of the two cutters abilities. I like to use a round nose hs tool when I turn aluminum on the late as well as with a fly cutter, at least when I want a very smooth surface. Keep on keeping on.
Interesting i brought a 12mm tool holder for them carbide inserts for 8 bucks delivered . i got it because i want to try it in my boring head. no idea if it will work but ill find out soon Great video Rob
So try to normalize it? Just bake it for 8hours in 175C - and you get something close to a T4. And machines easier gives a better finish. For a T6, you would bake it in 550C for 2 hours, quench it in boiling water and then put it back in for 2hours in 225C quench it in boiling water again .
For those of us that use imperial measurements, 175C = {347.00 Degree's Fahrenheit ,} 550C = {1,022.00 Degree's Fahrenheit,} 225C = {437.00 Degree's Fahrenheit.} Great information to have, thanks for sharing. :-)
No worries.. its not an exact science.. each alloy needs to be tested for different times but this is a general guideline to make it a bit more machineable. =)
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Hi Rob !
Very interesting stuff you do there !
For my next pour I'll try make some of your shapes as the first melting from the beer cans.
I think that jaw protector with the V's in it is a very good idea and worth copying ;-))
Thanks for sharing Rob! That HSS really left a great finish, definitely the way to go.
I like that homemade aluminum stock of yours, I'm saving my scrap now and plan to build a furnace soon. Your videos are a great help!
Buying aluminium from the shop is just so expensive. Same for brass. Casting your own aluminium is easy and not expensive to do. That Toyota wheel rim alloy is top stuff. Cheers Rob
Those inserts work beautifully in a fly cutter. Stock removal rate is good and surface finish is perfect. I spray a little WD40 as a lube and it works very well.
Hi Andrew. You're talking about the endmill inserts I take it ?
Cheers Rob
Excellent comparison video. On the economics of casting: I'm fortunate to live near a scrapyard where I regularly find usable off-cuts for cheap ($1.30/lb), so casting blanks wouldn't really be a money-saver for me. However, I still want to learn how to do it, and I enjoy your experiments. One day I will try it.
hey Rob, as usual a very helpfull video.
keep 'em comming.
Regards Shayne. Vic.
G'day mate. That pretty much is obvious proof of the two cutters abilities. I like to use a round nose hs tool when I turn aluminum on the late as well as with a fly cutter, at least when I want a very smooth surface. Keep on keeping on.
Hi Harold. Same here. Try a shear tool on the aluminium as well. That really gives an excellent finishing surface. Cheers Rob
I use window cleaner as lubricant for aluminium. It does not burn, no toxic fumes and vanishes into nothing.
Interesting i brought a 12mm tool holder for them carbide inserts for 8 bucks delivered . i got it because i want to try it in my boring head. no idea if it will work but ill find out soon Great video Rob
So try to normalize it? Just bake it for 8hours in 175C - and you get something close to a T4. And machines easier gives a better finish. For a T6, you would bake it in 550C for 2 hours, quench it in boiling water and then put it back in for 2hours in 225C quench it in boiling water again .
For those of us that use imperial measurements, 175C = {347.00 Degree's Fahrenheit ,} 550C = {1,022.00 Degree's Fahrenheit,} 225C = {437.00 Degree's Fahrenheit.}
Great information to have, thanks for sharing. :-)
No worries.. its not an exact science.. each alloy needs to be tested for different times but this is a general guideline to make it a bit more machineable. =)