I've been putting off doing ball joints and correcting the horrible positive camber on my 84 f150 forever just because I know it's going to be a big PITA!! ...Even though I have shop space, a ball joint press and 1\2" impact. Your video is well done and gave me the motivation to go ahead and just do it. Thanks!!
Michael Scarborough Yeah I felt the same way! Then I tackled the project and it wasn’t that bad. Since you have those tools, you will do just fine! Good luck!👍
I'm wondering if you got the ball joints and Camber bushings replaced on the 84 F150 I have an 86 and the way it's set up is different than the way it was set up on his video my ball joints come from the top to the bottom and there's a nut and the bottom that holds the ball joint in place the upper ball joint and then you see the sprocket type bushing which is different than the bushings he replace it seems like the ones he put on are a little bit easier to install
Wondering if you could help me with setting up the right camber for an 86 F150 since you have an 84 I believe they might be the same set up unless you have a four-wheel drive
Real nice video! Thank You! I ordered these for a E 250. Doing ball joints, pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, tie rods, springs, shocks, rotors/bearings, sway bar bushings, these adjusters, and new ceramic pads on the front. It's awesome to save money. Ball joints would have been $300, Radius arm bushings would be $700ish, and on and on.
Thanks man!🤙 You are most welcome! Nice! That’s the best way to freshen up the driving feel of a vehicle. Replace all the suspension parts and start fresh.
Ouch. My grandfather took the tip of his thumb off in his mid-60's after working in his carpentry shop for decades. Table saw got him. It only takes a second. @@TheMinuteMasters
Camas Damn! Thank God it wasn’t a whole finger! Table saws are very dangerous like that! They have very strong motors and would have no problem taking a finger off.
Steve! Sorry to,yell. 😂 I changed some stuff out. I’ll finish my RUclips video soon. I’ll show you what all you helped me with, but right now my wheels lose alignment when I put it in reverse, I checked the comments and no1 has brought it up. Any ideas? I did the bushings not too long ago. Ima check to see if any of them broke (I might have gotten cheap ones) but it’s only been a few months. Thanks for all the help 🙌🏼
@@TheMinuteMasters 🙌🏼, yes. Camber, sorry. Ok. I just didn’t want to take it to get an alignment and get asked to change a part I missed for 300 dollars more. Appreciate it bro 🫡
John Kaufmann Nice! You'll definitely need the camber bushings. I'm running 31's and that was enough to need them. Good luck with the lift! Thanks for watching!
The Minute Masters yep I had coil spacers and 35a and was having a whole lotta trouble Soni just got the full lift kit (I have a Bronco) and she came into alignment but still need a trip to the shop. Keep it up
The Minute Masters yep my son and I are rebuilding it Project Alpha Bronco on RUclips. We installed a two post hoist in the shop. I highly recommend one if you have the room to install one. C7000 Triumph is the model and we have a demonstration on RUclips for that too. It's removable if you don't need it. I'll stop bugging you now
These videos are helping me a lot with my truck. Thank you. I have a hard time wrapping my head but, I have a horrible negative camber eating tires on my truck. If I put the “skinny” side of te ring towards the tire and the “thicc” side towards the motor this is max positive right? Pushing the top out and standing the tire up straight? 🤕
I have a 94 F150. I put the wrong coil springs on and now I have positive camber. I could take them off and put the right ones on but I love how my truck is level now. Question for you. If I do what you just did will that correct my camber problem? I put moog cc824 instead of 822 or 820.
@@TheMinuteMasters I bought them from advanced auto, and they showed three different springs that fit my truck. But I didn’t read the fine print where it said that they needed more info about my truck to determine if the 824 would fit. I completely missed that. They fit on various Ford F and E series trucks and vans but not my 2wd 5.0 xlt.
Hey how is it going Steve I just saw your video was really helpful but I have a question, I have a 87 Ford Bronco I recently got a 4in lift and the front tires had a lot of tow out so I took it to get alignment hoping it would fix the problem but it didn’t fix the tow problem I have, do you think it’s the camber bushings? Because I was going to shim it honestly to fix the tow problem.
Thanks man!🤙 Toe in or out is adjusted via the tie rod ends on the drag link steering. Camber and castor are adjusted at the camber bushing. You can adjust the toe by turning either of the two adjustment sleeves attached to the tie rod ends. I have a video on how to do that. For toe out, you adjust the sleeves to pull the tie rods in toward the center of the truck. It only takes a couple quarters of a a turn to make adjustments.
It does it when I'm on drive as soon I let go of the steering wheel. I've taking it to alignment shop twice. I've changed inner and outer tie rods also the drag link and sway bar links.
Im finally getting to my I beams and spindles on my 91 E-150 ... and like I read SO much on those moog coil springs and finding the right one with the right height because so many complaints on certain model springs being too tall and causing positive camber. So my question is ... with an old I beam is it just not adjustable? You just have to have the exact springs that match with the I beam / spindle?
So coil springs are a mixed bag. I’ve tried Moog and AC Delco (I currently have Moog). I think they were both sub par. Now maybe I’m just not a fan of progressive rate springs. With I beams, you buy the coils that companies say fit. Height adjustability can be achieved with spacers. If camber needs to be adjusted, then you need adjustable camber bushings.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I mean the ones I switched too... I think I originally started with like the CC824 which are 16.9 uncompressed... 1400 lb rate about... but I went to a CC820 which are are 3/4" shorter compressed/uncompressed.. still a 1400 but not sure if a 5.0 E-150 would be 1200 or 1400 .. Then I realized they had anti squeak bushings... so ordered those ( I do have classic soft rubber ones that are round) but when I got the new bushings for anti squeak theyre like a hard plastic.. probably a 100 in durometer scale lol So now I'm not sure.. Like anti squeak sounds nice but who knows if theyre supposed to be hard plastic or if someone is just 3d printing this stuff. also being a conversion van with wood and luxury maybe rubber is better but yeah its so much more complex than I thought but most people on amazon with cc824 complained of positive camber.. others said CC820 was perfect ( i got them open box for like less than 50 bucks ) . and yeah then of course open coil vs progressive. I dont actually have a lot of experience driving an I beam Ford truck... ive just been restoring it. My uncle said a Ford truck nearly killed him because of how the I beams change camber over bumps .. maybe it also had bad kingpins.. anyway
I have a question. Have you had any issues with the camber bushings? I have a 1994 Ford f150 with positive camber. Every shop I have talked to says they break and don't work. Of course I'm sure they just wanna charge me for the install of different ones. Just wanted to see how they have worked out for you?
jesse g I’ve had no problems at all. Now mine are Moog bushings which might be a big difference in quality. But, I have never hear of them breaking. There really isn’t much to break. Honestly, I would install them yourself. If you are able. It’s pretty straightforward and with the right tools at hand, a breeze.🤙
Hope your staying safe man!! Quick question can the factory camber nut be adjusted? I have an insane amount of positive camber and don’t really feel like changing the nut. Not sure if I can just keep that one on there or if I need to change it In order to fix it.
So my camber is positive. If I get the the camber bushing that can adjust from 0 degree to 4 degree can I adjust it to 0? Or would I need to go more negative? Camber is slightly positive
If your camber is positive (tilting out at the top) you should try and adjust the existing camber bushing. If that camber bushing is adjusted to the max to bring the wheel to neutral. Then you will want to install an adjustable camber bushing to bring the wheel to just slightly negative (tilted in at the top.)
@@TheMinuteMasters so you can adjust the stock camber bushing? I ordered the adjustable ones already incase but yeah after I installed the leveling spacer the top comes out a little bit
What a wonderful video. Super easy to watch and listen to you. New subscriber, here's your comment, thumbs up and notification bell rung. By the way, not sure what year your truck is. I have three F-150's 94's and 95.
Hope you’ve been well man! Quick question, could these camber bushings possibly cause for an alignment to be more difficult to do if they’re never replaced? I took my truck to have an alignment and they said my alignment is impossible to do because the camber bushing are worn. I didn’t even know they could wear out because they are made of steel. Btw my entire front end suspension is new, other than the camber bushings.
Hey long time no talk Mr Baeza! I hope you have been well too! Yes, worn out camber bushings can cause alignment issues. The camber bushings on these trucks is adjust both camber as well as a little bit of the castor. I’ve not heard of a worn out camber bushing but I guess it can happen. After all, ball joints are all steel too but even they can wear out.
The Minute Masters thanks dude! I’ll change em out real quick and hopefully that’ll help. I really appreciate all the help you’ve been giving me. The E4OD transmission in mine is being replaced and hopefully I’ll be able to get her on the street feeling like new. You’re the best dude, stay healthy and I hope you and your family are doing well during this crazy time😃
MrBaeza1994 No problem Mr Baeza! 🤙 I’m glad I can help you out! Nice! Rebuild transmissions feel so nice and smooth. Thank you! You stay healthy and safe too man!
Yo! Just ripped out my engine and fixed my coolant and oil leaks. We pretty much have the same truck, 95 f150 5.0. I have a question, I got new coil springs from rough country to lift my front 1.5 inches. Well now my positive camber is intense. I took it to 2 different alignment shops and they said the adjustable camber bushings wouldn’t work, but there’s got to be a way to get them straight. Any ideas m8? I might buy it anyways and take it to another play. $$ adding up lol
I installed these two piece adjusters, went for an alignment and what do you know. The shop said they can't align these kind and wanted to charge me to replace them. Called two more shops and got the same response
Marc Lewis When I did this project I was afraid of that too. The first shop I took it to, the guy was able to do it. Those bushings usually come with adjustments instructions. So I took those directions with me to the alignment shop. I think he used the instructions, otherwise he probably would have said no.
Would this cause play in my steering on my 1990 F-150? When I turn it the right, it's tight, when I turn to the left, it's loose. Replaced the gear box twice, & had to adjust it to take some play out. My driver's wheel is turned in, my passenger wheel is turned out, when I try to straighten them, it throws my steering wheel off, either left or right. Took it in for alignment at Brake Check, they said it will still have some play until I get these adjustable camber bushings, they tried as much as they could to get the steering wheel straight as possible. Having a steering wheel not straight & with too much play in it gets on my nerves, so I tried to re-align it myself, got the steering wheel straight, but again, driver's wheel is turned in, & my passenger wheel is turned out. Drivin me crazy! I can't get it right for nothing. Looking at putting dual steering stabilizers for a smoother ride. Any suggestions? U & "Chris Fix" are the cleanest mechanics I've ever seen...
Hi Dee! Sounds like you have a couple of issues. Adjustable camber bushings only fix camber which is the top of the wheels tilting out of tilting in. If your alignment is off (wheels not facing the same direction as steering wheel), the tie rod ends need to be adjusted. They should be adjusted together so the front wheels are always parallel to each other. If you want the steering wheel the liner with the direction of your wheels then you adjust both of the tire rod ends in the same direction the wheel is pointing. It takes a little guesswork but you’ll get it. I do have a video on how to adjust your steering. Play in the steering is common for these old trucks. Sound that comes from worn out ball joints and tie rod ends. The other play comes from the actual steering box and steering wheel shaft. A new steering box eliminates a little bit of play and I’m told a Bergeson steering shaft get rid of the rest. So it’s a multi part fix if you’re trying to get pretty close to tight steering again.
On my 93 f150 The camber nut is pinned in place with a tab that slides into the slot for the balljoints retention bolt so Do not try turning it. it pulls/presses out of its orifice only.
Do you think it would be about the same on a 1996 ford ranger 2wd with the twin traction beam front suspension I added 2” coil spacers and positive camber is bad
Aaron Grillo From what I’ve seen the Ranger twin I beam is just a scaled down version of the f150 twin I beam. So this process should be the same. As for the camber, too much positive camber or negative camber will prematurely wear out your tires. Positive camber has the added disadvantage of making the from end more prone to tipping over while cornering a turn. So you definitely want to correct the camber back to zero and error more on the side of negative camber.
Hey beleve it or not a lot of the nascar teams in nascar do a lot things with positive and negative camber but it all depends which track they racing at as well.
@@TheMinuteMasters feel lucky. My 93 f150 is having the fuel problem where while the front tank is being used it will pump the return fuel into the rear tank and the rear tank will do the same thing but the rear tank is only pushing out 20psi of fuel as to where the front tank is pumping out around 60psi. And when i say everything, and i mean (everything) has been replaced. From the pumps to the sending units to the tanks. Everything. And it still does the fuel tank malfunction.
@@SHOINOFF So you have new pumps and sending units, new selector switch, new fuel tank vents, new fuel filter? So there is a charcoal filter located in the engine bay. Apparently the fuel tanks vent to it. You can check that to see if it is clogged. Also, I think depending on the year, there is a another fuel selector module other than the switch. I think pre 94 trucks have it. You may have to research that.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah everything has been replaced including all vacuum lines, vent valves. Fuel selector switch. It doesnt have the fuel modual under it, it has the 6 fuel lines all bundled together. I beleave the 92 f150 was the last year they did that. Now the charcoal filter.. is that the coffee can? Or the square looking vacuum box next to it? Neither of those have been changed yet cause they seemed to have decent vacuum. Everything else in the engine bay has been replaced as well. All of the sensors changed. And the intake plenum and throttle body were taken off and cleaned vigorously, they were dirty. The truck is the 4.9 300L6. Eventually lol im going to get tired of it and just slap a 5.0 in it and eliminate one of the tankes. Lol i was trying to keep it origonal but it seems to be a bit difficult to do.
@@SHOINOFF The charcoal canister is a square/rectangular box with a vacuum line and fuel line to it. I have a 5.0 and it’s mounted on the frame rail next to the wheel well. I was told recently it can clog and cause venting issues for the tanks.
I have this problem - what settings on the bushing did you use to get it the closest to the i beam. It says n is neutral and Im guessing A or z is the max
Chris Foti To be honest, I tried adjusting them myself and I thought I had it pretty well lined up. I took it to an alignment shop and they said it was all off. Later when I changed the coil springs, I had it aligned again. Unfortunately alignment is different for each truck. I can get you my current alignment though.
So I just took a look at the camber bushings on my truck. They are a bit encrusted with dirt and corrosion. So I wasn't able to make out the letters. However, I can tell you each side is at a different setting. Sp you definitely want to go to an alignment shop.
So did you put a lift on your truck?- I put 2 inch lift springs on the front and that's the problem I'm having with the alignment-I got in touch with the company that made the springs and they said they will settle an inch over a few thousand miles which along with the new bushings will hopefully let me align it up correctly.
Chris Foti Yeah lift springs really throw the alignment out on these trucks. Someone put f250 coils in my truck before me. The alignment shop said they could only get the camber so close. These trucks don’t work well with just changing coils when doing a lift. When doing a lift, you have to change the drop brackets or else you will have limited camber adjustment. It’s a huge down fall with the twin I beam suspension. The suspension could eventually settle but you will still experience limited camber adjustment.
So how does the installment of these camber bushings become necessary? Is it other parts/bushings/wheel bearings wearing out? Did Ford simply not allow for any stock camber adjustment with these trucks?
rdhr151 Good question! The camber bushing doesn’t really wear out unless you let your ball joints practically disintegrate. The stock camber bushing doesn’t have a lot of adjustment. An aftermarket adjustable camber bushing has 2 degrees adjustment in both positive and negative directions. If you add a leveling kit to your truck you will most likely need aftermarket adjustable camber bushings.
The Minute Masters ty for the reply. So if I plan to keep my suspension/tires/ride height all stock and want the alignment 100%...should I be looking at replacing other components like ball joints, pivot bushings, tie rod ends etc BEFORE considering these bushings?
rdhr151 Actually if your other suspension and steering components are fine then you can go ahead and just replace the camber bushings. I replaced the camber bushings at a different time then when I replaced the ball joints.
It’s an AC Delco set I found online. Here’s the link👇 ACDelco 45K6525 Professional Front Caster/Camber Bushing www.amazon.com/dp/B000S2IZ6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_vk7LndFsHkHmN
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks, I just put new steering linkage, and shocks after watching almost all of your videos haha, Wednesday I’ll be doing my coil springs. But anyways I got an alignment today and they said they could adjust the camber/caster with the factory bushing installed
@@austinwilder7861 Nice! I’m sure she steers much better now. Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate you watching! Yup, you’ll definitely want an alignment after the coil springs.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh she’s so much better now, it’s night and day difference? About how many inches of extensions did you need for the 1 1/8 nut for the coil spring removal? I’m about to start my replacement based off your videos
@@austinwilder7861 Right! These old trucks just need a few parts to feel like new. 🤙 I believe I used a long 6” extension and a 3” extension. If you have the usually 2 or 3 pack of extensions, you should be good.
@@TheMinuteMasters My research shows different. but i have an 86. Only part number that exists for an over 2 degree adjustment for my 86 RWD is k8668, and it ain't cheep.
darryl hardee Sorry for the late response. Just welding the engine crossmember on my truck. I believe it’s a 1-1/8 socket for the adjustable camber nut
Just throw all the new parts on it and get it straight enough to make it to the alignment shop. You aint gotta do 90 percent of his job for him.. and alignment is gonna cost the same no matter how close to perfect it is.
TomJāck Gentry So the camber nut has a hole bored through it but it is not bored through the center of the nut. The hole is offset and close to the edge. If you turn the nut the axis will move either closer or farther from the center.
TomJāck Gentry Well it doesn’t change the geometry of the suspension. A lift or lowering kit will change the geometry of the suspension. The camber nut corrects for that change. For example, lift/leveling kits that don’t have drop brackets tend to cause too much positive camber. The nut will adjust it back to neutral. A lowering kit without the proper brackets will cause more negative camber. The camber nut will also adjust that back to neutral.
The Minute Masters the reason I ask is because I just installed a leveling kit and my front tires lean out at the top. I had a similar truck about 15 years ago that I put an 8” suspension lift on and I could swear the only thing I did to fix it was adjust the tie rods out. Maybe I’m remembering wrong though. Would that not remedy the problem?
TomJāck Gentry Yes, you will definitely need these camber nuts them. However, I will tell you the camber nuts max out at -2 (tops lean in) or +2 (tops lean out) camber. Adjusting the tie rods only adjusts the toe of the wheels. Which it the wheels point out away from the track of the vehicle or the wheels pointed in (like pigeon toed people) toward the track of the vehicle.
Matt Blackwood Gotcha. You will need to find a camber adjustment kit for your particular year. The kit will look like a set of 4 long bolts with large washers. The washers will have the hole not centered which is where is gets its adjustment from. Your suspension arm either has to move outward from the side of your truck or inward. These kits allow you to do that.
Kevin A Haha Yeah! I bought two sizes 1-3/8 and 1-1/2. The 1-1/2 socket rotates the stock bushing out. I believe the 1-3/8 socket adjusts the camber nut.
Richard Arroyo The camber bushings come with an adjustment manual. I adjusted my own but I know it was only so good. So I ended up taking it to a shop to get it aligned properly.
Sorry but no good. You need to show putting the camber nut in. Did you have any problems? You explained it, but if you had difficulty we want to know or see.
What kind of trouble are you having? Lining up the bushing and a few taps with a dead blow hammer worked for me. With that said, mine went it easy enough that I don’t remember this being difficult.
I've been putting off doing ball joints and correcting the horrible positive camber on my 84 f150 forever just because I know it's going to be a big PITA!! ...Even though I have shop space, a ball joint press and 1\2" impact. Your video is well done and gave me the motivation to go ahead and just do it. Thanks!!
Michael Scarborough Yeah I felt the same way! Then I tackled the project and it wasn’t that bad. Since you have those tools, you will do just fine! Good luck!👍
I'm wondering if you got the ball joints and Camber bushings replaced on the 84 F150 I have an 86 and the way it's set up is different than the way it was set up on his video my ball joints come from the top to the bottom and there's a nut and the bottom that holds the ball joint in place the upper ball joint and then you see the sprocket type bushing which is different than the bushings he replace it seems like the ones he put on are a little bit easier to install
Wondering if you could help me with setting up the right camber for an 86 F150 since you have an 84 I believe they might be the same set up unless you have a four-wheel drive
Real nice video! Thank You! I ordered these for a E 250. Doing ball joints, pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, tie rods, springs, shocks, rotors/bearings, sway bar bushings, these adjusters, and new ceramic pads on the front. It's awesome to save money. Ball joints would have been $300, Radius arm bushings would be $700ish, and on and on.
Thanks man!🤙 You are most welcome!
Nice! That’s the best way to freshen up the driving feel of a vehicle. Replace all the suspension parts and start fresh.
Great video. Love the bandaged thumb that comes in after the ball joint replacement!
Carl Saiyed Thanks! Yeah I cut a huge chuck out of my thumb with a miter saw. Glad you liked the video!
Ouch. My grandfather took the tip of his thumb off in his mid-60's after working in his carpentry shop for decades. Table saw got him. It only takes a second. @@TheMinuteMasters
Camas Damn! Thank God it wasn’t a whole finger! Table saws are very dangerous like that! They have very strong motors and would have no problem taking a finger off.
"So you're wondering '"oh man! It's no longer dark, it's daylight"' (casual eye roll) lol! Your vids got my truck level and with perfect camber!
Hell yeah man! 🤙 Good to hear! It’s sucks when the camber is off on these trucks.
Steve! Sorry to,yell. 😂 I changed some stuff out. I’ll finish my RUclips video soon. I’ll show you what all you helped me with, but right now my wheels lose alignment when I put it in reverse, I checked the comments and no1 has brought it up. Any ideas? I did the bushings not too long ago. Ima check to see if any of them broke (I might have gotten cheap ones) but it’s only been a few months. Thanks for all the help 🙌🏼
You’re good!
When you say, they lose alignment, in what way? If you end up with more camber during reverse, that’s pretty normal.
@@TheMinuteMasters 🙌🏼, yes. Camber, sorry. Ok. I just didn’t want to take it to get an alignment and get asked to change a part I missed for 300 dollars more. Appreciate it bro 🫡
Perfect timing bud. I'm in the process of doing a lift and have these bushings in and would like to get close enough to drive
John Kaufmann Nice! You'll definitely need the camber bushings. I'm running 31's and that was enough to need them. Good luck with the lift! Thanks for watching!
The Minute Masters yep I had coil spacers and 35a and was having a whole lotta trouble Soni just got the full lift kit (I have a Bronco) and she came into alignment but still need a trip to the shop.
Keep it up
John Kaufmann Broncos are awesome! Glad it all worked out for ya!
The Minute Masters yep my son and I are rebuilding it Project Alpha Bronco on RUclips. We installed a two post hoist in the shop. I highly recommend one if you have the room to install one. C7000 Triumph is the model and we have a demonstration on RUclips for that too. It's removable if you don't need it.
I'll stop bugging you now
John Kaufmann that's awesome!! A two post hoist would be a dream!
Alright, nice talking to ya! Good luck!
These videos are helping me a lot with my truck. Thank you.
I have a hard time wrapping my head but, I have a horrible negative camber eating tires on my truck. If I put the “skinny” side of te ring towards the tire and the “thicc” side towards the motor this is max positive right? Pushing the top out and standing the tire up straight? 🤕
I can’t remember how to adjust these bushings to 0 camber but positive camber is the top of the tire sticking way out.
Somebody buy this guy some news gloves for Christmas please
Got some a couple of days ago.🤙😅
@@TheMinuteMasters haha hell ya
If you have a lift kit you'll need a moog 2 3/4° pos-neg camber bushing. Special tool available to easily remove factory camber bushing.
I've seen those special tools, but do they work good ? a threaded puller right ?
I have a 1.5-inch leveling springs on my 4wd. Would I want my camber set differently?
If your camber needs to be corrected, then yes.
Awesome video, Thanks
You’re welcome!🤙
I have a 94 F150. I put the wrong coil springs on and now I have positive camber. I could take them off and put the right ones on but I love how my truck is level now. Question for you. If I do what you just did will that correct my camber problem? I put moog cc824 instead of 822 or 820.
It depends how much camber you are trying to correct. You could get it close to 0 but not exactly 0 camber. What coil springs are cc824 made for?
@@TheMinuteMasters I bought them from advanced auto, and they showed three different springs that fit my truck. But I didn’t read the fine print where it said that they needed more info about my truck to determine if the 824 would fit. I completely missed that. They fit on various Ford F and E series trucks and vans but not my 2wd 5.0 xlt.
@@rustybarrr Sounds like you bought the 4wd coils.
@@TheMinuteMasters I wish there was a way to show you a picture of my truck on here. You could see how level it is now.
@@rustybarrr I have a pretty good idea of how yours looks. I used to have f250 coils on my truck and it leveled it out pretty well.
Hey how is it going Steve I just saw your video was really helpful but I have a question, I have a 87 Ford Bronco I recently got a 4in lift and the front tires had a lot of tow out so I took it to get alignment hoping it would fix the problem but it didn’t fix the tow problem I have, do you think it’s the camber bushings? Because I was going to shim it honestly to fix the tow problem.
Thanks man!🤙 Toe in or out is adjusted via the tie rod ends on the drag link steering. Camber and castor are adjusted at the camber bushing.
You can adjust the toe by turning either of the two adjustment sleeves attached to the tie rod ends. I have a video on how to do that. For toe out, you adjust the sleeves to pull the tie rods in toward the center of the truck. It only takes a couple quarters of a a turn to make adjustments.
Thank you my friend my negative real bad imma try to do it myself
darryl hardee No problem! Glad I could help! 👍
I have 1991 ford f150 that pulls to the right would these camber/caster bushings help out?
Does it pull to the right when you are braking?
It does it when I'm on drive as soon I let go of the steering wheel. I've taking it to alignment shop twice. I've changed inner and outer tie rods also the drag link and sway bar links.
PB Blaster the night before
That’s a must do!
Hello. It is need in both sides pilot and copilot?? Or une side have more adjusts?? I have a F150 1994 and o want lift olny in front is 2wd
Hi! Yes, you will need camber bushings for both sides if you are going to lift the front of your truck.
You can set caster and camber with string
Im finally getting to my I beams and spindles on my 91 E-150 ... and like I read SO much on those moog coil springs and finding the right one with the right height because so many complaints on certain model springs being too tall and causing positive camber. So my question is ... with an old I beam is it just not adjustable? You just have to have the exact springs that match with the I beam / spindle?
So coil springs are a mixed bag. I’ve tried Moog and AC Delco (I currently have Moog). I think they were both sub par. Now maybe I’m just not a fan of progressive rate springs.
With I beams, you buy the coils that companies say fit. Height adjustability can be achieved with spacers. If camber needs to be adjusted, then you need adjustable camber bushings.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I mean the ones I switched too... I think I originally started with like the CC824 which are 16.9 uncompressed... 1400 lb rate about... but I went to a CC820 which are are 3/4" shorter compressed/uncompressed.. still a 1400 but not sure if a 5.0 E-150 would be 1200 or 1400 .. Then I realized they had anti squeak bushings... so ordered those ( I do have classic soft rubber ones that are round) but when I got the new bushings for anti squeak theyre like a hard plastic.. probably a 100 in durometer scale lol So now I'm not sure.. Like anti squeak sounds nice but who knows if theyre supposed to be hard plastic or if someone is just 3d printing this stuff. also being a conversion van with wood and luxury maybe rubber is better but yeah its so much more complex than I thought but most people on amazon with cc824 complained of positive camber.. others said CC820 was perfect ( i got them open box for like less than 50 bucks ) . and yeah then of course open coil vs progressive. I dont actually have a lot of experience driving an I beam Ford truck... ive just been restoring it. My uncle said a Ford truck nearly killed him because of how the I beams change camber over bumps .. maybe it also had bad kingpins.. anyway
I have a question. Have you had any issues with the camber bushings? I have a 1994 Ford f150 with positive camber. Every shop I have talked to says they break and don't work. Of course I'm sure they just wanna charge me for the install of different ones. Just wanted to see how they have worked out for you?
jesse g I’ve had no problems at all. Now mine are Moog bushings which might be a big difference in quality. But, I have never hear of them breaking. There really isn’t much to break. Honestly, I would install them yourself. If you are able. It’s pretty straightforward and with the right tools at hand, a breeze.🤙
Hello there i have a 95 ford lightning with that positive wheel problem, if I put those aftermarket cambers will fix that problem?
Yes, these will fix your problem if you have a stock to mild leveled suspension.
@TheMinuteMasters cool! Thanks for the video and your info I just order it
Hope your staying safe man!! Quick question can the factory camber nut be adjusted? I have an insane amount of positive camber and don’t really feel like changing the nut. Not sure if I can just keep that one on there or if I need to change it In order to fix it.
MrBaeza1994 You to man! 🤙 Yes, the OE bushing has some adjustment in it. I think around -1 / +1 camber. All you have to do is rotate the bushing.
The Minute Masters thanks bro! Stay healthy and peace for you and your fam 🤙🏼🤙🏼
MrBaeza1994 You and your fam stay healthy too man! 🤙
So my camber is positive. If I get the the camber bushing that can adjust from 0 degree to 4 degree can I adjust it to 0? Or would I need to go more negative? Camber is slightly positive
If your camber is positive (tilting out at the top) you should try and adjust the existing camber bushing. If that camber bushing is adjusted to the max to bring the wheel to neutral. Then you will want to install an adjustable camber bushing to bring the wheel to just slightly negative (tilted in at the top.)
@@TheMinuteMasters so you can adjust the stock camber bushing? I ordered the adjustable ones already incase but yeah after I installed the leveling spacer the top comes out a little bit
@@bryancastruita99 Ah! If you bought a leveling spacer, you’re definitely gonna want those adjustable camber bushings.
@@TheMinuteMasters appreciate that! I got them ordered
Great job. Thanks!
Thanks Paul!!🤙
What a wonderful video. Super easy to watch and listen to you. New subscriber, here's your comment, thumbs up and notification bell rung. By the way, not sure what year your truck is. I have three F-150's 94's and 95.
Patrick PhippsPA Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed it! Mine is a 95! They sure are great trucks! Be sure to share my videos around!👍
Hope you’ve been well man! Quick question, could these camber bushings possibly cause for an alignment to be more difficult to do if they’re never replaced? I took my truck to have an alignment and they said my alignment is impossible to do because the camber bushing are worn. I didn’t even know they could wear out because they are made of steel. Btw my entire front end suspension is new, other than the camber bushings.
Hey long time no talk Mr Baeza! I hope you have been well too!
Yes, worn out camber bushings can cause alignment issues. The camber bushings on these trucks is adjust both camber as well as a little bit of the castor. I’ve not heard of a worn out camber bushing but I guess it can happen. After all, ball joints are all steel too but even they can wear out.
The Minute Masters thanks dude! I’ll change em out real quick and hopefully that’ll help. I really appreciate all the help you’ve been giving me. The E4OD transmission in mine is being replaced and hopefully I’ll be able to get her on the street feeling like new. You’re the best dude, stay healthy and I hope you and your family are doing well during this crazy time😃
MrBaeza1994 No problem Mr Baeza! 🤙 I’m glad I can help you out! Nice! Rebuild transmissions feel so nice and smooth.
Thank you! You stay healthy and safe too man!
Is that link for the pair or for one
I think it’s a pair, but you may want to read the product description.
Yo! Just ripped out my engine and fixed my coolant and oil leaks. We pretty much have the same truck, 95 f150 5.0. I have a question, I got new coil springs from rough country to lift my front 1.5 inches. Well now my positive camber is intense. I took it to 2 different alignment shops and they said the adjustable camber bushings wouldn’t work, but there’s got to be a way to get them straight. Any ideas m8? I might buy it anyways and take it to another play. $$ adding up lol
Nice! 1995 is a good year!
Have you installed the adjustable bushings? Or are you just trying to find a shop to do the alignment?
Good job!
Mr.Claude Thanks man!🤙
I have an F-150 96 model what is the setting letter lined up with split for the adjustable camber
Like what are my letters set to?
@@TheMinuteMasters I'm just going to bring it in to get it aligned LOL not a mechanic here
Great video da best!
Johnny Doggs No problem!🤙 Glad you enjoyed it!
I installed these two piece adjusters, went for an alignment and what do you know. The shop said they can't align these kind and wanted to charge me to replace them. Called two more shops and got the same response
Marc Lewis When I did this project I was afraid of that too. The first shop I took it to, the guy was able to do it. Those bushings usually come with adjustments instructions. So I took those directions with me to the alignment shop. I think he used the instructions, otherwise he probably would have said no.
@@TheMinuteMasters sounds like they don’t know what they’re doing without using the parts cannon.
@@CenobiteBeldar Sure sounds like it.
Yea, we have an 06 Rav 4, they said they lined it up, but failed to tell me that there was no adjustment for the Camber front or back.
Really? That’s weird. I always thought Japanese cars had good adjustments bolts for camber.
Why is the after market nut have such small surface area for a socket to sit? One slip and there goes any usable surface for a socket to ever grip it.
No idea. I didn’t have any issues with the nut having enough surface area on the camber bushing.
Hello I want to installing lift kit 2" in front on f150 1994, can those busher help me??
They sure can! 🤙
Would this cause play in my steering on my 1990 F-150?
When I turn it the right, it's tight, when I turn to the left, it's loose.
Replaced the gear box twice, & had to adjust it to take some play out.
My driver's wheel is turned in, my passenger wheel is turned out, when I try to straighten them, it throws my steering wheel off, either left or right.
Took it in for alignment at Brake Check, they said it will still have some play until I get these adjustable camber bushings, they tried as much as they could to get the steering wheel straight as possible.
Having a steering wheel not straight & with too much play in it gets on my nerves, so I tried to re-align it myself, got the steering wheel straight, but again, driver's wheel is turned in, & my passenger wheel is turned out.
Drivin me crazy! I can't get it right for nothing.
Looking at putting dual steering stabilizers for a smoother ride.
Any suggestions?
U & "Chris Fix" are the cleanest mechanics I've ever seen...
Hi Dee! Sounds like you have a couple of issues. Adjustable camber bushings only fix camber which is the top of the wheels tilting out of tilting in.
If your alignment is off (wheels not facing the same direction as steering wheel), the tie rod ends need to be adjusted. They should be adjusted together so the front wheels are always parallel to each other. If you want the steering wheel the liner with the direction of your wheels then you adjust both of the tire rod ends in the same direction the wheel is pointing. It takes a little guesswork but you’ll get it. I do have a video on how to adjust your steering.
Play in the steering is common for these old trucks. Sound that comes from worn out ball joints and tie rod ends. The other play comes from the actual steering box and steering wheel shaft. A new steering box eliminates a little bit of play and I’m told a Bergeson steering shaft get rid of the rest. So it’s a multi part fix if you’re trying to get pretty close to tight steering again.
I appreciate you comparing me to Chris Fix! He’s one of the big ones.🤙
Were you able to replace the upper and lower ball joints without taking the rotor and brakes off???
Jakestarr1723 I left the calipers and rotors on. Removing them does give you any advantage.
The Minute Masters did you use a press to remove them or hammer them out? Just got a 95 f150. Love the vids
Jakestarr1723 I used a pry bar and got it out. I used plenty of PB Blaster and wiggled the hell out of it.
On my 93 f150 The camber nut is pinned in place with a tab that slides into the slot for the balljoints retention bolt so Do not try turning it. it pulls/presses out of its orifice only.
Heheheh. Heh. He said, "orifice."
@@bcubed72 lol,dirty dirty boy hahahaha.
Do you think it would be about the same on a 1996 ford ranger 2wd with the twin traction beam front suspension I added 2” coil spacers and positive camber is bad
Aaron Grillo From what I’ve seen the Ranger twin I beam is just a scaled down version of the f150 twin I beam. So this process should be the same.
As for the camber, too much positive camber or negative camber will prematurely wear out your tires. Positive camber has the added disadvantage of making the from end more prone to tipping over while cornering a turn. So you definitely want to correct the camber back to zero and error more on the side of negative camber.
The Minute Masters I appreciate it I had to put my old small tires on so I didn’t ruin my big ones
Aaron Grillo Hey, that’s me every winter when I have to put my smaller snow tires on the rear.
Link for the camber bushings?? Thanks.
Andrew Marsh Gotcha covered man🤙
Moog K80109 Caster/Camber Adjusting Bushing www.amazon.com/dp/B000C59ZDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jotZEbK2R7KG9
Hey beleve it or not a lot of the nascar teams in nascar do a lot things with positive and negative camber but it all depends which track they racing at as well.
Joe Dirt I have heard that. Pretty cool how they tune their cars for each individual track.
Have you come across the duel fuel tank problems yet?
No yet. Both tanks rusted and leaked. The pump in the front tank died. Otherwise, they are working great!
@@TheMinuteMasters feel lucky. My 93 f150 is having the fuel problem where while the front tank is being used it will pump the return fuel into the rear tank and the rear tank will do the same thing but the rear tank is only pushing out 20psi of fuel as to where the front tank is pumping out around 60psi. And when i say everything, and i mean (everything) has been replaced. From the pumps to the sending units to the tanks. Everything. And it still does the fuel tank malfunction.
@@SHOINOFF So you have new pumps and sending units, new selector switch, new fuel tank vents, new fuel filter? So there is a charcoal filter located in the engine bay. Apparently the fuel tanks vent to it. You can check that to see if it is clogged. Also, I think depending on the year, there is a another fuel selector module other than the switch. I think pre 94 trucks have it. You may have to research that.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah everything has been replaced including all vacuum lines, vent valves. Fuel selector switch. It doesnt have the fuel modual under it, it has the 6 fuel lines all bundled together. I beleave the 92 f150 was the last year they did that. Now the charcoal filter.. is that the coffee can? Or the square looking vacuum box next to it? Neither of those have been changed yet cause they seemed to have decent vacuum. Everything else in the engine bay has been replaced as well. All of the sensors changed. And the intake plenum and throttle body were taken off and cleaned vigorously, they were dirty. The truck is the 4.9 300L6. Eventually lol im going to get tired of it and just slap a 5.0 in it and eliminate one of the tankes. Lol i was trying to keep it origonal but it seems to be a bit difficult to do.
@@SHOINOFF The charcoal canister is a square/rectangular box with a vacuum line and fuel line to it. I have a 5.0 and it’s mounted on the frame rail next to the wheel well. I was told recently it can clog and cause venting issues for the tanks.
Your hand looks all f***'d up 😂
Actually, it was. lol that was not long after I almost cut my thumb off with a miter saw.😳
How bog was that socket/ what size
If I remember it was a good 1-1/8th🤙
What ball joints do you use.
Those are Moog ball joints.
I have this problem - what settings on the bushing did you use to get it the closest to the i beam. It says n is neutral and Im guessing A or z is the max
Chris Foti To be honest, I tried adjusting them myself and I thought I had it pretty well lined up. I took it to an alignment shop and they said it was all off. Later when I changed the coil springs, I had it aligned again. Unfortunately alignment is different for each truck. I can get you my current alignment though.
So I just took a look at the camber bushings on my truck. They are a bit encrusted with dirt and corrosion. So I wasn't able to make out the letters. However, I can tell you each side is at a different setting.
Sp you definitely want to go to an alignment shop.
So did you put a lift on your truck?- I put 2 inch lift springs on the front and that's the problem I'm having with the alignment-I got in touch with the company that made the springs and they said they will settle an inch over a few thousand miles which along with the new bushings will hopefully let me align it up correctly.
Chris Foti Yeah lift springs really throw the alignment out on these trucks. Someone put f250 coils in my truck before me. The alignment shop said they could only get the camber so close. These trucks don’t work well with just changing coils when doing a lift. When doing a lift, you have to change the drop brackets or else you will have limited camber adjustment. It’s a huge down fall with the twin I beam suspension. The suspension could eventually settle but you will still experience limited camber adjustment.
So how does the installment of these camber bushings become necessary? Is it other parts/bushings/wheel bearings wearing out? Did Ford simply not allow for any stock camber adjustment with these trucks?
rdhr151 Good question! The camber bushing doesn’t really wear out unless you let your ball joints practically disintegrate. The stock camber bushing doesn’t have a lot of adjustment. An aftermarket adjustable camber bushing has 2 degrees adjustment in both positive and negative directions. If you add a leveling kit to your truck you will most likely need aftermarket adjustable camber bushings.
The Minute Masters ty for the reply. So if I plan to keep my suspension/tires/ride height all stock and want the alignment 100%...should I be looking at replacing other components like ball joints, pivot bushings, tie rod ends etc BEFORE considering these bushings?
rdhr151 Actually if your other suspension and steering components are fine then you can go ahead and just replace the camber bushings. I replaced the camber bushings at a different time then when I replaced the ball joints.
What bushings did you use?
It’s an AC Delco set I found online. Here’s the link👇
ACDelco 45K6525 Professional Front Caster/Camber Bushing www.amazon.com/dp/B000S2IZ6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_vk7LndFsHkHmN
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks, I just put new steering linkage, and shocks after watching almost all of your videos haha, Wednesday I’ll be doing my coil springs. But anyways I got an alignment today and they said they could adjust the camber/caster with the factory bushing installed
@@austinwilder7861 Nice! I’m sure she steers much better now. Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate you watching! Yup, you’ll definitely want an alignment after the coil springs.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh she’s so much better now, it’s night and day difference? About how many inches of extensions did you need for the 1 1/8 nut for the coil spring removal? I’m about to start my replacement based off your videos
@@austinwilder7861 Right! These old trucks just need a few parts to feel like new. 🤙
I believe I used a long 6” extension and a 3” extension. If you have the usually 2 or 3 pack of extensions, you should be good.
Is this rwd? is there a difference?
This is RWD. If I remember correctly, 4wd and 2wd are identical.
@@TheMinuteMasters My research shows different. but i have an 86. Only part number that exists for an over 2 degree adjustment for my 86 RWD is k8668, and it ain't cheep.
@@crocsonletsgo9665 Is your 86 RWD or 4wd? I’ll have to take a look. Ford didn’t change the suspension much between year model changes.
@@TheMinuteMasters RWD please any info helps. I'm 2 degrees away from having a drivable truck!
@@crocsonletsgo9665 I’ll do a little research. Did you add leveling springs?
I meant AutoZone is there any way you can give me the size of that nut right there, nut I need it now I'm sitting here so I can get a socket
darryl hardee Sorry for the late response. Just welding the engine crossmember on my truck. I believe it’s a 1-1/8 socket for the adjustable camber nut
Eagle scout ring?
You bet! Class of 2010! 🤙
Just throw all the new parts on it and get it straight enough to make it to the alignment shop. You aint gotta do 90 percent of his job for him.. and alignment is gonna cost the same no matter how close to perfect it is.
This is true. I got it kind of close but all the effort isn’t worth it.
I don’t understand what that camber nut actually does? How does it change anything?
TomJāck Gentry So the camber nut has a hole bored through it but it is not bored through the center of the nut. The hole is offset and close to the edge. If you turn the nut the axis will move either closer or farther from the center.
The Minute Masters yeah I get that I just don’t see how turning that offset but nut changes the geometry of your suspension.
TomJāck Gentry Well it doesn’t change the geometry of the suspension. A lift or lowering kit will change the geometry of the suspension. The camber nut corrects for that change. For example, lift/leveling kits that don’t have drop brackets tend to cause too much positive camber. The nut will adjust it back to neutral. A lowering kit without the proper brackets will cause more negative camber. The camber nut will also adjust that back to neutral.
The Minute Masters the reason I ask is because I just installed a leveling kit and my front tires lean out at the top. I had a similar truck about 15 years ago that I put an 8” suspension lift on and I could swear the only thing I did to fix it was adjust the tie rods out. Maybe I’m remembering wrong though. Would that not remedy the problem?
TomJāck Gentry Yes, you will definitely need these camber nuts them. However, I will tell you the camber nuts max out at -2 (tops lean in) or +2 (tops lean out) camber. Adjusting the tie rods only adjusts the toe of the wheels. Which it the wheels point out away from the track of the vehicle or the wheels pointed in (like pigeon toed people) toward the track of the vehicle.
The reason for your vibration is your caster.
caster does not cause vibration
My 2006 f150 has no factory camber adjustment. What do I need?
Matt Blackwood Gotcha. You will need to find a camber adjustment kit for your particular year. The kit will look like a set of 4 long bolts with large washers. The washers will have the hole not centered which is where is gets its adjustment from. Your suspension arm either has to move outward from the side of your truck or inward. These kits allow you to do that.
Socket size would have been nice to add.... you can’t go into an auto parts store and say hey I need a big boys socket.
Kevin A Haha Yeah! I bought two sizes 1-3/8 and 1-1/2. The 1-1/2 socket rotates the stock bushing out. I believe the 1-3/8 socket adjusts the camber nut.
He did say it
How do you adjust 😥😭😓🙏
Richard Arroyo The camber bushings come with an adjustment manual. I adjusted my own but I know it was only so good. So I ended up taking it to a shop to get it aligned properly.
the upper ball joint has no tightening nut on it ? omg what a crap design...I had 3 Ford 4x4's but never a 2wd with no upper ball joint nut.
Yup, no nut. The camber bushing is just squeezed in by the pinch bolt.
Sorry but no good. You need to show putting the camber nut in. Did you have any problems? You explained it, but if you had difficulty we want to know or see.
What kind of trouble are you having? Lining up the bushing and a few taps with a dead blow hammer worked for me. With that said, mine went it easy enough that I don’t remember this being difficult.
More camera on yourself then on the work
I’ll take note! Thanks man!🤙
You must have to watch your own videos. I bet you are dealing with drop down brackets right about now.
Actually I’m still running this same setup (different coil springs). Camber is set a just a touch negative.
The link that you put on from Amazon, is it for a set or just one of them? I have to replace both sides
@@TheMinuteMasters is the link for the cambers on Amazon for 1 or a set of 2?
@@stevenford1245 I can’t remember exactly. I thought it was two.