Hello great for the video! I had a question: I have 3 battery packs in 48 volts 280AH can we connect the 3 packs on the lynx? after that I must also power the 5MPPT smartsolar victron and go to the multiplus2 (8000VA) possible? thank laurent
I love this solution and thanks for sharing. I do have a question for you. Do you have (or anyone here) a recommendation for a bus adaptor for the negative bar. I need to add an extra device or two and I am looking at the different options to extend the extra connector out. I don't want to just use regular cupper as this will oxidize over time. Cheers.
I wouldn’t worry about extending it and just double up two on the smaller loads of the Lynx distributor. Always put the smaller of the loads on the stud second. If you were looked to extend the positive side I’d suggest adding a second Lynx distributor but the negative can be doubled up without issue.
It’ll be just fine. Make sure to put the cover on before you drill out the holes so no metal shaving get onto the circuit board. Deburr the edges and put a little dielectric grease on the exposed copper after drilling.
there really isn't any, the bus bar is rated for 1000 amps and very rarely do people actually use it that high up so this still perfectly ok taking a few hundred amps
The shunt draws less than one mA so its not a concerning power draw. By placing the shunt before the switch it enables the user to monitor the battery status even when the battery is disconnected from the system.
I used a 300amp Spartan switch but switched it out for a Blue Sea. A Spartan switch I recently installed failed and got pretty hot so I no longer trust that switch. I brought it up with Spartan and it was a know problem 🫣.
Just an FYI those switches are rated at 48v max and not appropriate for this application, you would need something rated at least at 60v, also a breaker with the ability to smother the d/c arc that can occur when disconnecting a battery under load. P.S. a 48v system fully charged is around 55.2v.
This went into a 12V system and is perfectly suited for the application. Also the 48v rating on the Victron switch is for nominal voltage on the switch and its max voltage rating is 60v. Using a Victron switch this setup would be perfectly acceptable on a 48v system not exceeding a 275amp continuous draws. As I did state on a different comment I would now recommend running either a Victon or Blue Sea switch as I have seen one of these Spartan switches fail (one of a dozen I’ve installed). As far as a breaker goes I don’t understand how flipping a breaker or flipping a switch would make any difference in how the system was disconnected from the batteries so please do explain.
@@LakeTahoeCustomCampers In a word, Arc Extinction, when the DC circuit is under load, the high currents can cross the narrow bridge on a switch connection if dis-connected under load. Arc Extinction is a suppressor built into DC breakers, dont take my word for it, do the research. The Victron switch does provide this protection, and is rated for 60v.
The Victron Disconnect Switch does not have any "Smothering" arc fault protection in it. It's a "Disconnect Switch" rated for 275 amps nothing else. As you need an AC\DC Arc fault Breaker like the ones ABB makes for anything like you described. So I suggest you take one apart and look inside. I would add 48v is not the max rating. It's the Nominal Operating range for these types of Disconnects. As most are rated way above 48 volts to meet UL listing requirements.
Thank you for the video, you've made a really nice setup with the way the wiring is laid out in the distributor. I've seen other setups that aren't as clean. I have my lynx distributor connected to a 24v system. Can i still use this configuration or will i have to convert input current to the small wires to 12v? I don't want to blow up the circuitry inside the lynx. Thanks again for the video and your time. Much appreciated.
Thanks for watching and for the compliment. The smaller wire for the lynx distributor circuit board needs to be reduced to 5v. The link in the description of the 5v reducer should do it. It’s rated for 6v-24v to 5v. If you’re actually running a 25.6v or slightly over 24v system, it’s probably still fine, but I would check it to ensure a 5v output with a multi-meter just to be safe.
@@LakeTahoeCustomCampers hey, thanks for the response. I see now that the stepdown regulator can handle 24v. I'll test it to be sure as the batteries charge up to 28.8v. Thanks again.
Hello
great for the video!
I had a question: I have 3 battery packs in 48 volts 280AH can we connect the 3 packs on the lynx? after that I must also power the 5MPPT smartsolar victron and go to the multiplus2 (8000VA)
possible?
thank
laurent
I’m honestly not sure. We mostly work on smaller 12v systems.
I love this solution and thanks for sharing. I do have a question for you. Do you have (or anyone here) a recommendation for a bus adaptor for the negative bar. I need to add an extra device or two and I am looking at the different options to extend the extra connector out. I don't want to just use regular cupper as this will oxidize over time. Cheers.
I wouldn’t worry about extending it and just double up two on the smaller loads of the Lynx distributor. Always put the smaller of the loads on the stud second. If you were looked to extend the positive side I’d suggest adding a second Lynx distributor but the negative can be doubled up without issue.
I have the M8 Lynx Distributor, you think it would be fine to drill out the holes to make a setup like this possible?
It’ll be just fine. Make sure to put the cover on before you drill out the holes so no metal shaving get onto the circuit board. Deburr the edges and put a little dielectric grease on the exposed copper after drilling.
Other than warranty and potential metal shavings getting in the chip board what other reason is there not to drill it?
there really isn't any, the bus bar is rated for 1000 amps and very rarely do people actually use it that high up so this still perfectly ok taking a few hundred amps
Very clean setup but tell us why you have power to smart shunt on powered side of switch instead of switched side. Thanks
The shunt draws less than one mA so its not a concerning power draw. By placing the shunt before the switch it enables the user to monitor the battery status even when the battery is disconnected from the system.
Do you know of a step down from 48Volt battery to 5volt?
The ones I have seen are larger in size. I gave Amazon a quick look and didn’t see anything small enough to fit.
What switch did you use in this install?
I used a 300amp Spartan switch but switched it out for a Blue Sea. A Spartan switch I recently installed failed and got pretty hot so I no longer trust that switch. I brought it up with Spartan and it was a know problem 🫣.
Just an FYI those switches are rated at 48v max and not appropriate for this application, you would need something rated at least at 60v, also a breaker with the ability to smother the d/c arc that can occur when disconnecting a battery under load. P.S. a 48v system fully charged is around 55.2v.
This went into a 12V system and is perfectly suited for the application. Also the 48v rating on the Victron switch is for nominal voltage on the switch and its max voltage rating is 60v. Using a Victron switch this setup would be perfectly acceptable on a 48v system not exceeding a 275amp continuous draws. As I did state on a different comment I would now recommend running either a Victon or Blue Sea switch as I have seen one of these Spartan switches fail (one of a dozen I’ve installed). As far as a breaker goes I don’t understand how flipping a breaker or flipping a switch would make any difference in how the system was disconnected from the batteries so please do explain.
@@LakeTahoeCustomCampers In a word, Arc Extinction, when the DC circuit is under load, the high currents can cross the narrow bridge on a switch connection if dis-connected under load. Arc Extinction is a suppressor built into DC breakers, dont take my word for it, do the research. The Victron switch does provide this protection, and is rated for 60v.
The Victron Disconnect Switch does not have any "Smothering" arc fault protection in it. It's a "Disconnect Switch" rated for 275 amps nothing else. As you need an AC\DC Arc fault Breaker like the ones ABB makes for anything like you described.
So I suggest you take one apart and look inside. I would add 48v is not the max rating. It's the Nominal Operating range for these types of Disconnects. As most are rated way above 48 volts to meet UL listing requirements.
@@MasterChief4U Noted.
Thank you for the video, you've made a really nice setup with the way the wiring is laid out in the distributor. I've seen other setups that aren't as clean.
I have my lynx distributor connected to a 24v system. Can i still use this configuration or will i have to convert input current to the small wires to 12v? I don't want to blow up the circuitry inside the lynx.
Thanks again for the video and your time. Much appreciated.
Thanks for watching and for the compliment. The smaller wire for the lynx distributor circuit board needs to be reduced to 5v. The link in the description of the 5v reducer should do it. It’s rated for 6v-24v to 5v. If you’re actually running a 25.6v or slightly over 24v system, it’s probably still fine, but I would check it to ensure a 5v output with a multi-meter just to be safe.
@@LakeTahoeCustomCampers hey, thanks for the response. I see now that the stepdown regulator can handle 24v. I'll test it to be sure as the batteries charge up to 28.8v. Thanks again.