My WORST jeep failure (So far).......AKA Don't try to TIG Weld old Cast Iron jeep Engine blocks!
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- Опубликовано: 4 мар 2021
- Well I got a result from my experiment, just not the one I wanted
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Apparently TIG welding dirty old engine blocks is very difficult but not from the way I thought it was going to be difficult, it's ok though this Willys MB engine block will live to fight again! 
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Driving a 1967 CJ-5 from Milwaukee to Thunder Bay , CANADA the front right hub started slinging grease. A quick repack on the side of the hi-way and I was back on the road. My travel companion was of no help and thought it was kinda funny.
After backpacking for 2 weeks with that jerk I was more than ready for the return trip. Over the border into the States we stopped at a tourist trap for snacks, the first real food in weeks. Coming out of the shop I noticed the right front wheel was wet, dripping from the hub. It was not grease, brake fluid or coolant. I wet my finger with it and sniffed. Had a funny smell. My “friend “ was laughing as he watched. He said a dog took a piss on the wheel. Another 600 miles to get home in silence, he still owes me $2500.00 but I have never been bothered by that ass since. Best 2500 bucks I ever spent.
My father used to have to weld cast iron. He couldn't afford to replace it. The trick is to preheat the cast iron. Get it as hot as you can, red hot. The welding material will heat up hotter than the cast iron, but, it will also cool down faster. That means that it will shrink and pull away from the cast iron which creates the cracks. Once the cast iron is welded, the cast iron has to be kept as hot as possible still and allowed to cool down slowly. The trick is to allow both metals to cool down together.
Hi Matt you could try traditional brazing with oxy, and heat the block up first as you did the traditional braze may allow more pooling of the bronze and more of a stronger bond
Yup flux would help. Possibly go lower temperature and silver solder.
@@thamesmud Would silver solder stand the running temperature of the engine?. It has a low melting point
It would work fine. The engine temp there should be less than 200 F.
Cast Welding :
Preheat, Typical preheat temperatures are 500-1200 degrees F.(use proper rod, preferably high nickel content) weld(stick welding would of been eaiser), PEEN the hell outta it for expansion , Post heat for hours, gradually decreasing the temperature ( l put the item in my charcoal grill and then let it die out on its own) I've done many cast iron items and had success every time , I've used Super Missile rod, melts in like butter on hot toast, it has red flux and looks like gold after it's chipped , it's about $292.00 per 10lb box or $3.33 per (1) 14" rod ---- Cheers
*Edit: l weld for a living *
It's a learning process, I've failed on weld projects too and after 30yrs l still have a lot to learn , keep up the good work and videos👍🏼
As someone who’s also had his engine block repaired by the same guy that you recommended. This video’s title gave me a heart attack.
I welded chains to very rusted casted manhole covers surprisingly successfully using stainless steel rods and a basic arc welder. Bonds very well and was quite easy to weld. I am not a welder and had no cast iron rods available and it was the first time I welded on cast iron. Yes, they steal even manhole covers in South Africa. Only problem is I now have shiny bits on the rusty manhole covers.
On one of my Willys engine, on a small crack I put epoxy outside and welded liquid "Holtz" first inside the radiator...it still work perfectly after years!!!Thank for the beginning of the video, so fun!! By the way, I think you already know that but...You need a windscreen!!! stay safe!
I think the biggest problem is using the TIG torch. Im just a dumb farm boy but I've done a lot of down and dirty tractor repairs. I usually had success brazing cast iron with an o/a torch. Arc welding just generates uncontrollable heat. That's when the cracks get worse. Just an opinion.. There's always the JB Weld option on those old 134's... 😉
I'll second that. The other method that works well is metal stitching with cast iron plugs.
@@toomanyhobbies2011 Now look here young feller, I can sharpen a drill bit right to the nub and trim my finger nails in the process. No need to go braggin about your store bought taps...😉
for one minute I thought the block in the JEEEP blew out and my neck tension SPIKED! so thanks for that.
Yes, looking forward to the JB Weld vid. Brave man, tasting the unknown liquid. Were I close enough, I would buy you a pint of something, to cleanse your palate.
It's the sort of thing you do without thinking about but only afterwards do you realise perhaps you should have thought about things a bit more first, but then again my jeep is my baby so I need to act quickly to protect her!
@@Greendot319 Yes indeed. Have a good weekend. I am fiddling with the Troy-Bilt Horse (rear tine tiller). Time to plant potatoes.
Traditional braising will work well,, I have done quite a few blocks repairs that way. One thing is if you braze it, drill a small hole, 1/4 inch at the end of the crack , to braze up last. Also Lock Stitch works fantastic.
I think I saw holes at the end if the welds. Look closer.
I have done some welding in my career and one job I did was to repair an old cast iron manhole cover that was broken in half. My successful method was as follows, Preheat the whole, (not just the weld area) cover and use a normal arc-welder and cast iron electrodes, (they are not actually cast iron but are for cast iron), do about an inch at a time, and keep the job hot and repeat until you have finished, use your heat source to gradually bring the temperature down. I have no doubt that you can find a scrap lump to practice on. Incidentally, before the age of remote thermometers, when your spit sizzled nicely that was the target temperature!
OMG!!! I'm pretty sure repaired manhole coverts are not allowed in any municipality now! :)
@@MikeBaxterABC The manhole cover was on my private property and only subject to occasional foot traffic,
i found that stainless steel will weld cast iron very easily, do not over heat the iron
Straight nickel is better. Steel, even stainless, will try to pull the carbon out of the cast iron.
Again , not a very experienced welder but will say that nickel is said to be a very commonly used material for cast iron repair and most likely the most successful . I believe the muggy weld rods are of different composition for different repair but their nickel rod is their claim for cast iron repair . I’ve often wanted to try my hand at blazing rods but nickel is highly praised .
I had surprisingly good results using stainless wire and MIG on an MB exhaust manifold. I did short beads and then peened it while it air cooled. The impurities you encountered might trump that too but try it sometime.
Top job matt, thoroughly enjoyed, looking forward to seeing you tackle it with the next method. Cheers. Will
My Friend I see what you was speaking of.
You the Jeep and the dog was a Hoot.
I love it.
But thank goodness for the most part over here we can still locate some older parts but it is getting harder.
They are crushing and melting down the past more and more.
Hopefully people like you can keep it going for a bit longer.
As always enjoy your post.
God Bless and keep y'all safe.
Looks mean nothing when you crank that engine up someday and it runs. Hats off do doing your first engine block weld on YT for us to monday morning quarterback.
A great ending to the video would have been popping a warning shot off next to the dog with a m1 carbine... or playing fetch in sight of the owner with a dummy grenade. Pull the pin, toss and yell "FETCH!"
Looking forward to more. Patreon subscribed!
Powder metal spray weld process will have the best results on that casting.
That's and interesting idea James, not thought of that one before, not sure it is suitable for crack repair though?
👍 Where I worked used Belzonia to repair cast pump casings and I have used it to repair engine blocks Belzona Industrial Protective Coatings and Composites
As a nuclear welder for 30 years, warm ,an stick weld with DC stainless rods E309
Thanks Henry!
Lock and stitch is the only thing I think would work as a long term fix.
What is it with our four legged friends and jeeps? I have two furry friends, and everytime the jeep is rolled out, they "christen" every wheel before jumping in! And yes, it does look like oil!!
I don't have a damn dog so this shouldn't be a problem for me!
My only successes repairing cast iron has been brazing with oxy acetylene (not having access to TIG, or indeed TIG even existing at the time.) With a lot of pre heat with big gas torches. It worked but given it was only and old Record vice it really wasn't worth the effort.
...and with that story...you are officially on my subscribe list.
As kid my job was drilling tapping lots and lots of bolts lapping them together.
At skunk works?
No I lived? next to an old engine work shop that still did old school work. Like using alloy arc rods to gas weld alloy blocks and gas weld cast as it put less heat in than a tig I would drill,tap,pin heads and blocks took a lot of time but I was only like 12? So £15? A day was good money
Welding cold cast will not hold. You are going to have to keep the area you are welding hot and keep it hot for a few minutes and control the cooling time. If you do it wrong it may crack.
Yeah....I think the problem there was not enough heat....
As soon as I heard you say silicon bronze, I knew it wouldn't work. This cast is too old, too contaminated, to try this. Use nickel 55 or 95 rod, with arc welder, it can be done. Problem now is its contaminated with bronze.
BTW, The JB weld will work. But ya, wouldn't be my first choice either.
Thanks for the input. Yep it was a shame it didn't work out properly. There seems to be a big difference to just welding cast iron and welding contaminated old cast iron...
@@Greendot319 There is. I welded the cracked water jacket on a John deere R, it does work with nickel rod. Arc welder with nickel rod. Google muggy welding rod.
I contacted muggy weld and asked for advice. They never replied....
@@Greendot319 Then I'd try Hobart 99 rod or Lincoln electric Tech 99 rod. I know your in the UK so shipping etc would be a total costly pain... Good luck.
I will say you’ve done all you can to prepare the surface for repair . You’ve cleaned it , grooved channels and drilled holes to,prevent the cracks from spreading . The difficult part as we all know ( yourself included ) and your reason for making this video is to show what one is up against when attempting this repair . Dissimilar materials are difficult to “ fuse “ together . The constant on the cast iron is in question . How much steel is actually cast into the iron is in question and beyond our control . So,e castings are better cast than others . It’s no wonder the Jeep wasn’t expected to survive a long , combat conditions aside , but no expected the engines to live this long . We all know engine blocks from fifty and one hundred years ago and longer or less are still alive and well today . Cars , trucks , buses , etc. , their engines still live on .
So why is it so difficult to weld a cast iron block ? Not being a very experienced welder myself cannot speculate exactly . I can only say it is in fact very difficult to fuse a dissimilar material together in the form of a weld . It’s not just the technique applied that will determine whether success or failure will be had . Some may say the best attempt is made with an arc welder of proper amperage , correct type filler rod . Others will say brazing . There is no doubt that the proper level of heat must be applied or cast Iron will crack . Proper heat application also plays a very important part in preparing the cast iron itself as well as the material applied . The cooling process is also very important if we are to be successful .
Anyone who is experienced at repairing cast iron will tell us that cast iron repair is completely different than mild steel or even aluminum .
What we have got against us from the start is the make up , composition and content of the cast iron itself .
We will have to ask ourself “ why did it crack in the first place ? “ yes , why does this happen when so many cast iron engine blocks of so many years of age survive . It will come down to whether the cast is repairable or not because of the molecular content and whether it’s integrity to withstand heat cycles has compromised the cast block for the last time and led it to it’s demise . Yes , we want to save an engine block that is no longer produced , but can it be saved is the question at hand . We can only try and take our best attempt . The heavy mass isn’t worth its weight in coin these days anyway . When cast iron is produced from the smelting process , we have to ask ourself “ how can we re - create that ? “ in our repair attempt . I too wish I had the answer because lord knows how many engine blocks I wished I could have saved too .
The nickel content and steel is what is weldable within the casting . The non - ferrous material is what ruins our attempt to successfully complete the repair . There are filler rods on the market which claim to successfully repair aluminum and cast iron . Muggy weld is one that comes to mind . If your heart is in it , you’ll find the means and see the repair through . Even if it’s not by your own hand but trusted to someone with your money .
Couldn't you keep the heat continuous so it stays hot and then weld
Well. I guess now you will have to call your Jeep Dog piss :P
just great Chris
@@Greendot319 Get the stencil made ;)
What a beautiful jeep what year and model is this, I came across your channel I been watching a few of your videos as they come up. Really cool content .
Hi have question, nothing to do with the block. But wot paint do you use to paint your regulator cover with. I can't seam to find the right stuff. If you could help out that would be very much appreciated
The block can be dipped in a rust removal chemical that will clean the block inside and out. Firms like Envirostrip or Surface Processing Ltd will clean it up, which may make welding easier.
Ever heard of people using lead to fix a cracked engine block? I’ve a flathead ford 8n 1949 tractor block that’s cracked and I’m looking for options. Thanks!!
Have you thought about lock-N-Stitch? Seems like a good candidate for chasing a crack in a block. Love the experiment though. Nothing that cant be undone.
Yep, mentioned at the end of the video ;) Thanks for the comment
I wonder if there was a way to make your own lock and stitch using cast iron plumbing fittings in the same way the Lock N stitch product works. I might try it for fun. My grandfather repaired a model A block using a bunch of cast Iron plugs using a similar method to seal a hole. He was a B-17 mechanic. I would ask him but sadly due to altzhimers he doesn’t remember much anymore. He is 96 now. He was a big fan of using JB weld too. In some areas on his model T it was used and has held for 30 years now. I would say it is acceptable.
Try acid etch primer over the top once you have sealed it up with jb weld or belzona then paint the block with buzz weld 2k fxbedliner or similar.. Basically seal the cast iron from the outside as best as is chemically possible..
I reckon you've done as good a job as could be done.. Brazing it or stick welding might have gotten a slightly better result.... But then maybe not.. Ye cannae change the laws of physics and old knackered engine blocks....
Maybe somebody will 3D print a completely new block out of aluminium or something similar?
Curious if soldering is an option? Like a plumber did with tubes in the early days? I do not know much about JB weld, is that soldering thin?
I dol like the Greendog319!
Low shot JP!
@@Greendot319 ok ok browndog319? 😬🤣
Anyway, cool ep again. 👍👍
@@pcmmulders dirtydog319
Gas braze this. Don't TIG braze.
I am going to be working on the same engine to get a cj2a running. This won’t happen for a long time but I was wondering if I could buy some spare parts off of you. Like the valve seats that you got a box of.
No Valve seats sorry, jeep motor doesn't need hardened seats too, works fine without them! Thanks Matt
@@Greendot319 what did you get a box of then. Where there was like 500 of them
@@gjs9871 Oh, the valve locks?! Got lots of them, let me know what you need ;)
@@Greendot319 ok thanks. I don’t have them yet but I am helping my friend fix a cj2a Which has a stuck motor. I will be using the same kind of motor from a generator that is missing parts. It will be awhile because it’s at his house right now and it’s far away.
You pulled the engine (out of the jeep on camera) and stripped it down to make this weld?
EDIT!
Oh OK .. read all comments .. sorry for confusion :(
I really do not feel it's worth the time reassembling the engine with that JB Weld holding it together :( Even if it cost $0 .. (and I'm sure it will be much more than that) Either get it fixed, lock an stich or welding ... or source a uncracked block
Try DC
all in the video!
@@Greendot319 I can mix AC and DC together mainly for thick alloys
What kind of flux were you using?
No flux needed with tig apparently although perhaps it would have helped!
Jb weld.
Använd vanlig elsvets med gjutjärnspinnar med hög nickel halt förvärm inte svetsa max 1-1,5 cm knacka svetsen så att den sträcker sig fortsätt svetsa när du kan röra metallen
You have to experiment to learn (although I don't think I would wish to experiment with dog pee...) - a good result even if it did not do what you set out to do. JB Weld should work well, I have been surprised at how good it is, see how that goes, so long as it does not leak it is a success!
Engine Block Repair Epoxy Composite: ruclips.net/video/vm_I34zDGas/видео.html
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