Awesome video geek climber! Thank you guys so much for coming out and being one of my very first clients on my new personal training program. You are going to be crushing even more soon!
hey Paul can you elaborate a little on the straight-index finger crimp that they're doing in the video? I always try to maintain half crimp, but when adding lots of weight, or campusing at my limit, my index finger goes straight. does that just indicate weakness in crimping ability?
Nice initial training video and see the general scope of assessing where you are. Might just start with “where am I now”? Truthfully, don’t like to train, but got to do something different if I really want to progress. 😝Looking forward to see result of your 6 week training.🤘
Keep it up man! I'm a cyber security analyst. And I totally get the "climbing geek" name. I just started climbing today. I'm 37. And your videos inspire me for sure! And no I'm not gonna do this stuff yet. But I will some day.
You're looking super strong! Those muscle ups really gave you a lot of pulling strength, you can see a difference between the campusing from this video and the previous. Keep on grinding!
Definitely unweighted hangs on the hangboard! They are very controlled so it’s nearly impossible to injure yourself, and it builds up the most important aspect of strength for climbing, which is finger strength!
when should i start with campusing? ive been climbing for a bit more than a year and am at about v5 level is it too early to start (as in am i too prone to injury if i start now?) ? atm i just train explosive pullups and other calisthenics stuff and i started hangboarding a bit. really informative video btw, you're looking insanely strong these days, hope i can get there some day.
if the campus board got bigger woodchunks then in the video you are totally fine. if you hurt your fingers while climbing, may dont train at the campus board this specific week. give them a bit rest. if the woodholds of your campusboard are as small as in the video, maybe try hangboarding till you dont feel like you could improve there without adding weight.
@@TheValinov how often should i do it as a beginner? just once a week is enough? since my training schedulue is already kinda full with strngth training, bouldering and lead climbing i dont think i can fit more than one day in. scared of overworking myself and getting injured, atm i boulder 2x, climb lead 1x and strength train 2x.
I have a big question: Is geek climbers right hand in the correct position? I have the same problem where my index finger is straight on my right, whereas my left is in half crimp.
You were able to hang 35sec on 19mm in your most popular video 2 years ago. Did you lose your gains because of injury or just to tired after campusing?
If you don't maintain that hangboard training you will lose it. And really fast. The raw finger strength stays longer but the ability to hold on for that long goes away fast.
I'm 16 and have been climbing 2/3 times per week for just over a year. What sort of training should I do because I've heard that this type of training is only for experienced climbers?
Patrick Sebire i feel like some people are ready earlier for campus/hang boarding. a full year and you are pretty young so maybe light stuff on jugs or deepest pockets, and the thickest campus wrungs are alright? it would really depend how strong you are in tendons and wrists eg, maybe you are super light? i feel like (imo) some people climb 2-3 years but arent really campus board type of climbers? most importantly, have a go, see how you feel, and dont rush into the deep end. and talk with some strong guys at the gym haha
hey man, i'm also 16 and have been climbing 4 times a week for a year now, whatever you do, look after your fingers, as a teenager they can get injured really easily so stay away from hangboarding sessions and whole sessions of small campus rungs. you can do maybe 10 minutes of mildly intense training on them but no more and definitely not a whole session. I've seen too many friends injure themselves by doing finger intense training at a young age.
I read Eric Horst’s article on training for climbing for youth athletes a long time ago. If my memory is correct, he actually suggests youth climbers mainly climb and stay away from hangboarding and campusing because a teenage body is still in the middle of a growth spurt. If you are really curious, I suggest you dig around on his website to find that article.
Patrick Sebire boulder hard on a board. Moonboard tensionboard or just a board your gym has. It’s what will make you the strongest the fastest. Way more than campusing or hangboarding
Hey geek climber inorder to get strict muscle up you would need 5reps of about 70% of your body weight. Also, sorry for not replying when you first replied
A what grade should you start campus? Someone told me at 6C(V4?). I thought you should start earlier because at that level a lot of the boulders have holds smaller the than the ones on the campusboards
I dont campus and I did manage to climb 5.13+ whenever I set myself on one. And honestly from what I ve seen you do not need campusing to even climb V9 or V10. The thing is you will get good at it in a couple of months...really good but not anything close to climbing a couple of V grades harder. I used to campus when my max grade was 7a and didnt do anything but to exhaust myself. Stick to limit bouldering and basic conditioning and results will come easy :) at least for climbing 7A/B
I'd say it's a combination of the grade and how long you've been climbing for. You might be naturally good at technique plus strong in general (eg a former gymnast or something along those lines) and get to that level within, say, half a year or so. The problem is that finger tendons need much longer to adjust to the intensity than the rest of your body might, so starting campusing at that stage might lead you straight into a finger injury. Also, keep in mind that while you might be climbing on small holds, climbing, unlike campusing, typically involves your feet. Campusing is also a repetitive movement, which adds additional strain to your fingers that you will not have experienced during regular climbing or bouldering.
I've been climbing toprope (once every 2 weeks) for 2 years and bouldering (twice a week) for 1 year. Don't do campus board and I boulder 6b/6b+(v4) and on roped climbs I flash most 6b and I project 6b+ and some times 6C. I gained so much strength just by climbing, especially bouldering. I have started doing different types of pull ups and some light hangboarding, but this is because I use it as an extension of what I train on the climbing wall. I noticed my shoulders were hurting a little, so I focus a lot on activating my shoulders when I climb (and not slam into my joints when I grab onto something after a Dyno, but in stead let my muscles take the load) and I do pull ups to strengthen and really focus on my shoulders and what I do with them when I pull myself up and let myself down. Hangboarding I use to gain a little strength. This is because I noticed even with proper technique, I didn't have the fingerstrength to hang on small crimps. And I don't want to use a full crimp, because of the high risk of injury. So I train open hand and half crimp on the hangboard to be able to use those on the crimp holds on the wall. So basically I only train specific things to prevent injury. And I just climb as much as I can to become a better climber. Also I believe Adam Ondra once said something like: you have to acquire good technique when you start climbing, If you gain strength too quick you will never learn the teqnique you need to be able to use your strength effectively. Hope this helps :)
Paul might be the best candidate to answer you, but I will give you my 2 cents. I think the best timing to start campusing is when you hit a plateau. If you can get better at climbing just by climbing like a lot of talented people, don't break the rhythm by reducing your climbing time just because some people tell you that you should train on the campus board. With that being said, I think you have to have been climbing for at least 3 years and climbing V5+ before training on the campus board.
Awesome video geek climber! Thank you guys so much for coming out and being one of my very first clients on my new personal training program. You are going to be crushing even more soon!
Thank you so much! I can’t wait to get stronger! Guys, be sure to check out Paul’s latest video here: ruclips.net/video/EBDGg2b1B_s/видео.html.
hey Paul can you elaborate a little on the straight-index finger crimp that they're doing in the video? I always try to maintain half crimp, but when adding lots of weight, or campusing at my limit, my index finger goes straight. does that just indicate weakness in crimping ability?
Your videos always make me smile a tonne. You bring such a wholesome energy to climbing.
Glad you like the video haha! The world needs more wholesomeness!
"Ok stop filming "
Mason Joyce haha, Yes I wonder what that was 😆 Nice vid btw
@@jibzouth He's just telling his videographer to stop filming. On his video, it cut before he said that.
😆😆😆
Mason Joyce lmao
Geek Climber Hey may i ask how to increase your energy.
"Okay stop filming I was just-" Im so curious! What was he "just" doing???
Nice initial training video and see the general scope of assessing where you are. Might just start with “where am I now”? Truthfully, don’t like to train, but got to do something different if I really want to progress. 😝Looking forward to see result of your 6 week training.🤘
Haha, hopefully, I will be able to showcase some improvement in such a short amount of time!
Keep it up man! I'm a cyber security analyst. And I totally get the "climbing geek" name. I just started climbing today. I'm 37. And your videos inspire me for sure! And no I'm not gonna do this stuff yet. But I will some day.
Very awesome to know another fellow engineer decided to start climbing! Have fun, man!
You're looking super strong! Those muscle ups really gave you a lot of pulling strength, you can see a difference between the campusing from this video and the previous. Keep on grinding!
Yea looking back it's amazing how much I have improved! The training is worth it!
Great stuff, Guys!!! I’m going to start doing these workouts!
Paul is an incredible guy
waited for this
Glad you tuned in so promptly!
Lol, was Paul reprimanding someone for filming at 1:32? Or was it more like a production related stop filming
production related im guessing
Great Video! What do you think is the best training for someone just beginning to add training to their climbing?
Definitely unweighted hangs on the hangboard! They are very controlled so it’s nearly impossible to injure yourself, and it builds up the most important aspect of strength for climbing, which is finger strength!
"Oh i'm ready!"
😆😆
Before I watch this video: Wall climbing? Pfftt. Easy!
After this video: I don’t think I can even do the pull ups. 😂
when should i start with campusing? ive been climbing for a bit more than a year and am at about v5 level is it too early to start (as in am i too prone to injury if i start now?) ? atm i just train explosive pullups and other calisthenics stuff and i started hangboarding a bit.
really informative video btw, you're looking insanely strong these days, hope i can get there some day.
if the campus board got bigger woodchunks then in the video you are totally fine. if you hurt your fingers while climbing, may dont train at the campus board this specific week. give them a bit rest.
if the woodholds of your campusboard are as small as in the video, maybe try hangboarding till you dont feel like you could improve there without adding weight.
@@TheValinov
how often should i do it as a beginner? just once a week is enough? since my training schedulue is already kinda full with strngth training, bouldering and lead climbing i dont think i can fit more than one day in. scared of overworking myself and getting injured, atm i boulder 2x, climb lead 1x and strength train 2x.
I have a big question: Is geek climbers right hand in the correct position?
I have the same problem where my index finger is straight on my right, whereas my left is in half crimp.
Can you give me a timestamp so I can look into it? I will ask Paul about it.
@@GeekClimber 4:39, your right hand middle finger PIP joint is at a
@@coreylee3473 yes, it is all about how long each individual finger is. hang in the position that is most comfortable to you!
You were able to hang 35sec on 19mm in your most popular video 2 years ago. Did you lose your gains because of injury or just to tired after campusing?
My guess is that fatigue could have played into it. I think they had done some climbing before this as well.
If you don't maintain that hangboard training you will lose it. And really fast. The raw finger strength stays longer but the ability to hold on for that long goes away fast.
Is Paul here in Colorado? This is my local gym I climb at and would love to try to set up some classes.
He is! I recommend you to send him an email!
@@GeekClimber will do thanks for the heads up.
I'm 16 and have been climbing 2/3 times per week for just over a year. What sort of training should I do because I've heard that this type of training is only for experienced climbers?
Patrick Sebire i feel like some people are ready earlier for campus/hang boarding. a full year and you are pretty young so maybe light stuff on jugs or deepest pockets, and the thickest campus wrungs are alright? it would really depend how strong you are in tendons and wrists eg, maybe you are super light? i feel like (imo) some people climb 2-3 years but arent really campus board type of climbers?
most importantly, have a go, see how you feel, and dont rush into the deep end. and talk with some strong guys at the gym haha
hey man, i'm also 16 and have been climbing 4 times a week for a year now, whatever you do, look after your fingers, as a teenager they can get injured really easily so stay away from hangboarding sessions and whole sessions of small campus rungs. you can do maybe 10 minutes of mildly intense training on them but no more and definitely not a whole session. I've seen too many friends injure themselves by doing finger intense training at a young age.
I read Eric Horst’s article on training for climbing for youth athletes a long time ago. If my memory is correct, he actually suggests youth climbers mainly climb and stay away from hangboarding and campusing because a teenage body is still in the middle of a growth spurt. If you are really curious, I suggest you dig around on his website to find that article.
Thanks guys really helpful! Will probably avoid them for now so I don’t get injured but will probably start when I turn 18
Patrick Sebire boulder hard on a board. Moonboard tensionboard or just a board your gym has. It’s what will make you the strongest the fastest. Way more than campusing or hangboarding
Hey geek climber inorder to get strict muscle up you would need 5reps of about 70% of your body weight.
Also, sorry for not replying when you first replied
I see. Thanks for letting me know!
why did you cut out onion hairstyle guys attempts?? is he any good? better than you? worse?
you did good job so bravo for you
4:40 edge of bm2k is 15mm isn't it?
yeah 15-16mm bm1k (left one) is 19-20mm
The numbers are from here: www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/cek236/beastmaker_1000_and_2000_edgehold_sizes/.
@@GeekClimber bm1k and bm2k are different. bm2k is 15mm, bm1k 20mm as @kostrzak18 said
What if they get injured?
It is a chance of it, watching their campusing strength.
To be honest climbing on the moonboard is way harder than campusing for me. I will be extra careful though.
2:19 we all know why this is the case...
A what grade should you start campus? Someone told me at 6C(V4?). I thought you should start earlier because at that level a lot of the boulders have holds smaller the than the ones on the campusboards
I dont campus and I did manage to climb 5.13+ whenever I set myself on one. And honestly from what I ve seen you do not need campusing to even climb V9 or V10. The thing is you will get good at it in a couple of months...really good but not anything close to climbing a couple of V grades harder. I used to campus when my max grade was 7a and didnt do anything but to exhaust myself. Stick to limit bouldering and basic conditioning and results will come easy :) at least for climbing 7A/B
I'd say it's a combination of the grade and how long you've been climbing for. You might be naturally good at technique plus strong in general (eg a former gymnast or something along those lines) and get to that level within, say, half a year or so. The problem is that finger tendons need much longer to adjust to the intensity than the rest of your body might, so starting campusing at that stage might lead you straight into a finger injury. Also, keep in mind that while you might be climbing on small holds, climbing, unlike campusing, typically involves your feet. Campusing is also a repetitive movement, which adds additional strain to your fingers that you will not have experienced during regular climbing or bouldering.
I've been climbing toprope (once every 2 weeks) for 2 years and bouldering (twice a week) for 1 year. Don't do campus board and I boulder 6b/6b+(v4) and on roped climbs I flash most 6b and I project 6b+ and some times 6C.
I gained so much strength just by climbing, especially bouldering.
I have started doing different types of pull ups and some light hangboarding, but this is because I use it as an extension of what I train on the climbing wall. I noticed my shoulders were hurting a little, so I focus a lot on activating my shoulders when I climb (and not slam into my joints when I grab onto something after a Dyno, but in stead let my muscles take the load) and I do pull ups to strengthen and really focus on my shoulders and what I do with them when I pull myself up and let myself down.
Hangboarding I use to gain a little strength. This is because I noticed even with proper technique, I didn't have the fingerstrength to hang on small crimps. And I don't want to use a full crimp, because of the high risk of injury. So I train open hand and half crimp on the hangboard to be able to use those on the crimp holds on the wall.
So basically I only train specific things to prevent injury. And I just climb as much as I can to become a better climber.
Also I believe Adam Ondra once said something like: you have to acquire good technique when you start climbing, If you gain strength too quick you will never learn the teqnique you need to be able to use your strength effectively.
Hope this helps :)
Paul might be the best candidate to answer you, but I will give you my 2 cents. I think the best timing to start campusing is when you hit a plateau. If you can get better at climbing just by climbing like a lot of talented people, don't break the rhythm by reducing your climbing time just because some people tell you that you should train on the campus board. With that being said, I think you have to have been climbing for at least 3 years and climbing V5+ before training on the campus board.
Geek Climber thank you!
How many sessions like that a week?
no more than 2! 1 if you are a beginner.
You can hangboard twice per week but you should campus board only once per week
In Paul's actual workout he designed for me, I am actually not doing all these on the same day. Each workout is only being done at most twice a week.
@@GeekClimber can you break down the workout exercises for the week?