Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You have to be careful on Mao tube.iv seen people giving what I know to be incorrect info on the ar rifle.i have learned much from you that I haven't seen or thought of to try before.THANK YOU SIR.GBAMERICA
Great series, very informative. I was talking with a local gunsmith discussing a new build as entryway to precision shooting he mentioned that precision competition shooters super glue their rifles together once they are dialed in, is that accurate?
@@FUNshoot Both of my builds I used VLTOR MUR uppers and good quality barrels. On both of them the barrel fit the upper so snug, I had to put a wood block on it and tap it in. There was no wobble at all. Anybody trying to build a highly accurate AR platform should look at those uppers, the Machining is very good and precise because the parent company is involved with Aerospace Machining and they do very good work. Those receivers also way more because they have more aluminum in critical places to make it very rigid.
Hi, i have a strike industries gridlok handguard and came with a barrel nut. And ever since i change this handguard my group is so bad (6 inch grouping). Then i saw your video so i started trying to tweak with what your saying reguards to barrel harmonics from 40 to 80 ft/lb. Never got it it did get better at randomly ill hit a bull'seye. So i called the manufacture and ask what the torque spec is on their barrel mut and they said the max ft/lb torque on the barrel nut is 45 ft/lb. Now i wonder if i canted the barrel nut or the barrel nut itself inner flange was always bad. Ive repurchased two of same barrel nut now and 3rd one is on the way.
Due to these vids which are excellent . I have found a upper receiver that has an underfit barrel extension area.... And with slightly oversized barrels. It makes for an thermal interference fit that you need a heatgun to get it on or off(off is harder then on lol). Can you see any downside to a fit like this? What type of accuracy are you looking for at 100 yards?
Try asking the manufacturer of the parts in your "build" and maybe learn that "starting torque" is "to specs" and from there you ONLY go TIGHTER to the nearest "notch" and proper gas tube alignment. You seriously think "knocking off" a tooth on the barrel nut is "correct" procedure to "build" a rifle and get the "best" performance out of it? If so, you don't need any torque "specs". And BTW, your "AR-10" probably isn't an "AR-10". Armalite makes both "types" of "AR-10". If its not an Armalite, its an "LR" or SR" or "PSA10". Manufacturers know how to "build" their products "best" no "modifying" required.
@@deeremeyer1749 @DEEREMEYER1 There are "barrel nuts" produced which do NOT have "teeth" negating the necessity to "index" it angularly. "Depending" on the quality of fit on the interface of the "extension" and the "upper" receiver torque values absolutely affect "groups." If you don't have anything productive to "contribute" you should quit "trolling" and try to LEARN SOMETHING. Sarcasm aside, you spoke wonders about your experience when you suggested manufacturers create the penultimate rifle and need not be improved upon. Thanks bud! Needed a good laugh.
All components involved with chambering a round have WHAT TO DO WITH ACCURACY ? Once a round is chambered and the bolt locked in battery , This is where Accuracy BEGINS . The rounds travel down the barrel with the sights properly aligned to barrel center line , determine the bullets point of impact . Or am I wrong ? All additional parts involved with stripping that round from the mag and chambering that round , have what to with accuracy ???
Not that jacking with the torque of the most important and safety-critical "fastener" in an "AR" to "tune" its accuracy and precision period much less doing so by modifying and weakening the barrel nut is even remotely acceptable to anyone with basic mechanical knowledge, education and experience beyond "building" ARs, but assuming doing so weren't stupid and wrong on numerous levels and for many reasons, going to the "average" torque you've "discovered" produces "on average" the "best" results from hundreds of attempts to "tune" ARs into shooting their "best" is not the "best" way to "tune" a new "build" if using a "trial and error approach". Starting at the "minimum" so-called "safe" barrel nut "torque" and proceeding from their "upward" to the specified torque even and especially if there is no "improvement" and NEVER "backing off" a previously "torqued" barrel nut on an aluminum upper is the "correct" procedure. Aluminum parts invariably "relax" one "properly" torqued because ALL THREADS PLACE PARTS IN "COMPRESSION" AND THE THREADED FASTENER(S) IN TENSION. AND WHENEVER FASTENER MATERIALS ARE IDENTICAL YOU ALWAYS USE LUBRICANT TO PREVENT GALLING AND ACHIEVE "CORRECT" TORQUE AND FASTENER "TENSION". WITH ALUMINUM YOU TORQUE TO SPECS, WAIT 10 OR 15 MINUTES AND THEN RE-CHECK/RE-TORQUE BACK UP TO SPEC. AFTER THAT HEAT-COOL CYCLES, PRESSURE CYCLES ETC HAVE NO EFFECT. SINCE YOU OBVIOUSLY HAVEN'T USED MANY TORQUE WRENCHES IF YOU THINK ANY BUT HIGH-END ELECTRONIC TORQUE WRENCHES "READ" IN SINGLE-DIGIT INCREMENTS, MAKE NO MENTION OF LUBRICATION OR TORQUE WRENCH/SETTING "CALIBRATION" CHANGES AND OPERATION NECESSARY TO ACTUALLY GET "XX" LB.-FT. OF TORQUE "ON" THE NUT WHEN USING A BARREL NUT "WRENCH" WITH A 3/8" OR 1/2" SQUARE DRIVE OPENING FOR A TORQUE WRENCH AND THAT AS AN "EXTENSION" THE LENGTH OF THE "WRENCH" AND EXTRA LEVERAGE RESULTS IN MORE TORQUE ON THE NUT THAN "READ" ON THE TORQUE WRENCH WITH "SIMPLE" RECALCULATION OF THE TORQUE SETTING BEING NECESSARY TO GET "XX" TORQUE ON THE WRENCH AND NUT, ITS NOT SURPRISING YOU'VE HAD TO USE "TRIAL AND ERROR" HUNDREDS OF TIMES TO GET AR "BUILDS" TO SHOOT THEIR "BEST". EVERY TIME YOU "BUILD" ONE YOU'RE OBVIOUSLY FLYING BLIND BECAUSE YOU"RE EXPECTING A WHOLE COLLECTION OF VARIABLES TO PRODUCE A GUARANTEED AND CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE RESULT AND ARE BUTCHERING THE PRIMARY FASTENER TO BEGIN WITH. NOWHERE IN THE MECHANICAL WORLD WILL YOU FIND A SITUATION WHERE SOMETHING IS TO BE "TORQUED" UNTIL "TIGHT" AND THEN IF A "LOCK" OR OTHER ALIGNMENT-CRITICAL PARTS DON'T ALIGN "BACKED OFF" OR "MODIFIED" SO THEY DO. IF YOU "KNOCK OFF" ONE "TOOTH" ON THE BARREL NUT THE FREAKING GAS TUBE CAN BE "CROOKED" AND YET "WORK" AND THAT ALONE WILL CAUSE "ACCURACY" TO BE FOR SHIT BUT "IMPROVE" SIMPLY BECAUSE ITS "LESS CROOKED" AFTER "TUNING" THE NUT "TORQUE". BUT IF YOU'VE STILL BUTCHERED THE NUT AND "TUNED" THE "TORQUE" THE GUN STILL ISN'T "BUILT" RIGHT. THAT WHOLE BCG/GAS KEY/UPPER/GAS TUBE "GUIDE" (IN THE UPPER WHERE THE FOUR "FEET" CENTER/SUPPORT IT)/BARREL NUT/GAS TUBE/GAS BLOCK/BARREL EXTENSION PIN "SYSTEM" IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO MAKE IT ALL BUT IMPOSSIBLE TO ASSEMBLE "LOOSE" AND "WRONG" AND STILL HAVE THE RIFLE "RUN" UNTIL MISALIGNMENT CAUSES THE GAS SYSTEM TO "FAIL". IF SHIT ISN'T ALIGNED "PERFECTLY" YOU'LL HAVE TO FORCE PARTS THAT SHOULDN'T TOUCH AT ALL TO "FIT" AND THE "BARREL HARMONICS" WILL BE SHORT-LIVED NON-FACTORS IN WHY THE THING DOESN'T SHOOT ITS "BEST" AND/OR "RUN" WELL/LONG ENOUGH TO GET A "TEST GROUP". The entire rifle was designed to be about as "idiot-proof" as possible but leave it to an "armorer" who can't find/follow a "service manual" to find a way to fuck up "building" one "hundreds of times" and "teach" other "builders" to just "modify" parts that "interfere" with "torquing" the barrel nut and "tuning" for the "best" accuracy/precision.
@@FUNshoot who is this deeremeyer1 guy? You keep doing what your doing TOP, your wealth of knowledge is appreciated by those of us with sense and no overwhelming feeling of inferiority. Good grief this guy should probably understand who he is talking to before opening his mouth and looking like a complete fool.
This is awesome stuff, from someone who has OBVIOUSLY done the work and testing necessary to give this sort of advice. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! The more I learn the more I realize I have more to learn. And I agree with Jay Bird you sound just like Jimmy Stewart.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You have to be careful on Mao tube.iv seen people giving what I know to be incorrect info on the ar rifle.i have learned much from you that I haven't seen or thought of to try before.THANK YOU SIR.GBAMERICA
Hi Johnny's Reloading Bench sent me to do my homework.
Ha Ha...me too
That scienist quoted was Richard Feynman. He was also a musician, played bongos.
Thanks for adding the additional info!
I like how you said flutes @3:24
Very informative.
That is a great shirt .
Thanks for watching!
Wow, just wow!
Great series, very informative. I was talking with a local gunsmith discussing a new build as entryway to precision shooting he mentioned that precision competition shooters super glue their rifles together once they are dialed in, is that accurate?
Great e-mail address!
I think so too!
What a great video where can I purchase a barreled upper from you do you have a web site .
This is really great information. I did a 6.5 Grendel with a 20 inch heavy barrel, does that 47 lb sound like a good option for that as well?
That should be. Perhaps others have a similar build and can comment on their experience.
@@FUNshoot Both of my builds I used VLTOR MUR uppers and good quality barrels. On both of them the barrel fit the upper so snug, I had to put a wood block on it and tap it in. There was no wobble at all. Anybody trying to build a highly accurate AR platform should look at those uppers, the Machining is very good and precise because the parent company is involved with Aerospace Machining and they do very good work. Those receivers also way more because they have more aluminum in critical places to make it very rigid.
Hi, i have a strike industries gridlok handguard and came with a barrel nut. And ever since i change this handguard my group is so bad (6 inch grouping). Then i saw your video so i started trying to tweak with what your saying reguards to barrel harmonics from 40 to 80 ft/lb. Never got it it did get better at randomly ill hit a bull'seye. So i called the manufacture and ask what the torque spec is on their barrel mut and they said the max ft/lb torque on the barrel nut is 45 ft/lb. Now i wonder if i canted the barrel nut or the barrel nut itself inner flange was always bad. Ive repurchased two of same barrel nut now and 3rd one is on the way.
Did you season the threads on the barrel nut when you first put it on?
Joe Carlos, do you offer AR15 gunsmithing services to the public?
is there anyway I can get a copy of the 2 part article on barrel extension to upper receiver fit, written for american gunsmithing
Contact the editor at American Gunsmith directly. Include your subscriber number (located on the mailing label.)
americangunsmith.info/
Due to these vids which are excellent .
I have found a upper receiver that has an underfit barrel extension area....
And with slightly oversized barrels.
It makes for an thermal interference fit that you need a heatgun to get it on or off(off is harder then on lol).
Can you see any downside to a fit like this?
What type of accuracy are you looking for at 100 yards?
Service Rifle builds are routinely sub-MOA. Contact Joe Carlos directly at NCC1701@penn.com
I dont buy non-thermal interference fit uppers. I found BCM uppers and JP uppers are usually thermal interference fits.
good information, by the way you sound just like Jimmy Stewart lol
You know someone makes that comment on every video of his, don't you? Anyway, Stewart was a baritone; Joe's a tenor.
Great information here. I'm building an AR-10. Do you have a recommended starting torque for my build?
See "Barrels For Custom AR-15s" in the July-August 2017 issue
americangunsmith.info/2017/07/10/barrels-for-custom-ar-15s-part-1/
Try asking the manufacturer of the parts in your "build" and maybe learn that "starting torque" is "to specs" and from there you ONLY go TIGHTER to the nearest "notch" and proper gas tube alignment. You seriously think "knocking off" a tooth on the barrel nut is "correct" procedure to "build" a rifle and get the "best" performance out of it? If so, you don't need any torque "specs". And BTW, your "AR-10" probably isn't an "AR-10". Armalite makes both "types" of "AR-10". If its not an Armalite, its an "LR" or SR" or "PSA10". Manufacturers know how to "build" their products "best" no "modifying" required.
@@deeremeyer1749 @DEEREMEYER1 There are "barrel nuts" produced which do NOT have "teeth" negating the necessity to "index" it angularly. "Depending" on the quality of fit on the interface of the "extension" and the "upper" receiver torque values absolutely affect "groups." If you don't have anything productive to "contribute" you should quit "trolling" and try to LEARN SOMETHING.
Sarcasm aside, you spoke wonders about your experience when you suggested manufacturers create the penultimate rifle and need not be improved upon. Thanks bud! Needed a good laugh.
Where can I find a ar10 upper built to these standards?
Reach Joe Carlos directly: NCC1701 -at- penn.com
@@FUNshoot thank you, ncc1701? Must be a Star trek fan
All components involved with chambering a round have WHAT TO DO WITH ACCURACY ? Once a round is chambered and the bolt locked in battery , This is where Accuracy BEGINS . The rounds travel down the barrel with the sights properly aligned to barrel center line , determine the bullets point of impact . Or am I wrong ? All additional parts involved with stripping that round from the mag and chambering that round , have what to with accuracy ???
Not that jacking with the torque of the most important and safety-critical "fastener" in an "AR" to "tune" its accuracy and precision period much less doing so by modifying and weakening the barrel nut is even remotely acceptable to anyone with basic mechanical knowledge, education and experience beyond "building" ARs, but assuming doing so weren't stupid and wrong on numerous levels and for many reasons, going to the "average" torque you've "discovered" produces "on average" the "best" results from hundreds of attempts to "tune" ARs into shooting their "best" is not the "best" way to "tune" a new "build" if using a "trial and error approach".
Starting at the "minimum" so-called "safe" barrel nut "torque" and proceeding from their "upward" to the specified torque even and especially if there is no "improvement" and NEVER "backing off" a previously "torqued" barrel nut on an aluminum upper is the "correct" procedure. Aluminum parts invariably "relax" one "properly" torqued because ALL THREADS PLACE PARTS IN "COMPRESSION" AND THE THREADED FASTENER(S) IN TENSION. AND WHENEVER FASTENER MATERIALS ARE IDENTICAL YOU ALWAYS USE LUBRICANT TO PREVENT GALLING AND ACHIEVE "CORRECT" TORQUE AND FASTENER "TENSION". WITH ALUMINUM YOU TORQUE TO SPECS, WAIT 10 OR 15 MINUTES AND THEN RE-CHECK/RE-TORQUE BACK UP TO SPEC. AFTER THAT HEAT-COOL CYCLES, PRESSURE CYCLES ETC HAVE NO EFFECT.
SINCE YOU OBVIOUSLY HAVEN'T USED MANY TORQUE WRENCHES IF YOU THINK ANY BUT HIGH-END ELECTRONIC TORQUE WRENCHES "READ" IN SINGLE-DIGIT INCREMENTS, MAKE NO MENTION OF LUBRICATION OR TORQUE WRENCH/SETTING "CALIBRATION" CHANGES AND OPERATION NECESSARY TO ACTUALLY GET "XX" LB.-FT. OF TORQUE "ON" THE NUT WHEN USING A BARREL NUT "WRENCH" WITH A 3/8" OR 1/2" SQUARE DRIVE OPENING FOR A TORQUE WRENCH AND THAT AS AN "EXTENSION" THE LENGTH OF THE "WRENCH" AND EXTRA LEVERAGE RESULTS IN MORE TORQUE ON THE NUT THAN "READ" ON THE TORQUE WRENCH WITH "SIMPLE" RECALCULATION OF THE TORQUE SETTING BEING NECESSARY TO GET "XX" TORQUE ON THE WRENCH AND NUT, ITS NOT SURPRISING YOU'VE HAD TO USE "TRIAL AND ERROR" HUNDREDS OF TIMES TO GET AR "BUILDS" TO SHOOT THEIR "BEST".
EVERY TIME YOU "BUILD" ONE YOU'RE OBVIOUSLY FLYING BLIND BECAUSE YOU"RE EXPECTING A WHOLE COLLECTION OF VARIABLES TO PRODUCE A GUARANTEED AND CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE RESULT AND ARE BUTCHERING THE PRIMARY FASTENER TO BEGIN WITH. NOWHERE IN THE MECHANICAL WORLD WILL YOU FIND A SITUATION WHERE SOMETHING IS TO BE "TORQUED" UNTIL "TIGHT" AND THEN IF A "LOCK" OR OTHER ALIGNMENT-CRITICAL PARTS DON'T ALIGN "BACKED OFF" OR "MODIFIED" SO THEY DO.
IF YOU "KNOCK OFF" ONE "TOOTH" ON THE BARREL NUT THE FREAKING GAS TUBE CAN BE "CROOKED" AND YET "WORK" AND THAT ALONE WILL CAUSE "ACCURACY" TO BE FOR SHIT BUT "IMPROVE" SIMPLY BECAUSE ITS "LESS CROOKED" AFTER "TUNING" THE NUT "TORQUE". BUT IF YOU'VE STILL BUTCHERED THE NUT AND "TUNED" THE "TORQUE" THE GUN STILL ISN'T "BUILT" RIGHT. THAT WHOLE BCG/GAS KEY/UPPER/GAS TUBE "GUIDE" (IN THE UPPER WHERE THE FOUR "FEET" CENTER/SUPPORT IT)/BARREL NUT/GAS TUBE/GAS BLOCK/BARREL EXTENSION PIN "SYSTEM" IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO MAKE IT ALL BUT IMPOSSIBLE TO ASSEMBLE "LOOSE" AND "WRONG" AND STILL HAVE THE RIFLE "RUN" UNTIL MISALIGNMENT CAUSES THE GAS SYSTEM TO "FAIL". IF SHIT ISN'T ALIGNED "PERFECTLY" YOU'LL HAVE TO FORCE PARTS THAT SHOULDN'T TOUCH AT ALL TO "FIT" AND THE "BARREL HARMONICS" WILL BE SHORT-LIVED NON-FACTORS IN WHY THE THING DOESN'T SHOOT ITS "BEST" AND/OR "RUN" WELL/LONG ENOUGH TO GET A "TEST GROUP".
The entire rifle was designed to be about as "idiot-proof" as possible but leave it to an "armorer" who can't find/follow a "service manual" to find a way to fuck up "building" one "hundreds of times" and "teach" other "builders" to just "modify" parts that "interfere" with "torquing" the barrel nut and "tuning" for the "best" accuracy/precision.
americangunsmith.info/writers-guidelines/
Submit any articles on firearm building you'd like to write up.
@@FUNshoot who is this deeremeyer1 guy? You keep doing what your doing TOP, your wealth of knowledge is appreciated by those of us with sense and no overwhelming feeling of inferiority. Good grief this guy should probably understand who he is talking to before opening his mouth and looking like a complete fool.
@@jonnida3494 He's been invited to write articles detailing his methods and will be paid to do so when/if he follows through.
@@FUNshoot He won't follow through. He just wants to get people to think he knows more than the guy in the video.
Did you get your article sent in? I'd like to read it. Lol
The guy in the video has forgot more than you'll ever know about a AR15 barrel
Stop saying flash suppressor.
Why?