Just wanted to throw this out there. Since making this video, there are now (finally) a lot of new rear shock options out there to choose from. For those of you who might not want to undertake the effort of swapping out the rear shock spring, you might check out other options for a new shock and 975lb spring combination like the: Vontak - amzn.to/3TsO2Q8 or other new shocks from DNM or Racing Brothers. Thank for watching!
After watching your video and others I did not want to go through the trouble of trying to replace the stock shock spring with the BBR spring,so I elected to purchase the Vonkat shock with adjustable rebound and preload,perfect fit replacement for the stock rear shock,I also replaced the fork springs with the BBR springs,I have yet to try them out because it is 110 dg. here in Cali,but just sitting on the bike I can feel a big big difference,I weigh 175 lbs
@@05rickieI’ve had several people write me and say that they love the feel (and ease of installation!) of the Vontak rear shock paired with the BBR front springs. Thank you for commenting on your experience and impression of that setup. And thank you for watching!
Thank you! I believe the "small wheel" 125F front fork springs are listed on the same BBR page as the "big wheel" springs: bbrmotorsports.com/Products/Products.aspx?Prod=650-HCF-1205. But the part number for the small wheel springs is 650-HCF-1305. But DEFINITELY contact BBR to make sure! 👍
That rear spring is a pain! That U bracket is screwed on to the threaded rod but the factory uses some sort of triangle pointed press to make it permanent. I was able to get it off but now cant get it back on. Currently my brand new bike is un-ridable. I am hoping i can fix the threads with a tap and die.
Yeah, I was VERY fortunate to have my mechanic friend help me with that. I did run into that very same issue and what my friend did was do some LIGHT work on the tip of that bolt with his Bench Grinder and then we were able to screw that U attachment back on. He may have also used a tap and die as well just to finish smoothing it out - I can't remember. I think we also added a little Loctite in there after the fact for some extra security. Hope that helps.
@@brandonwatsonmedia Thanks for advice. I cutoff about 1/4 inch of the threaded end, that was flared from the factory, with a portable band saw and was able to screw the clevis back on. Thanks again.
Awesome! And thank you for taking the time to leave a comment about this. Hopefully, it provides some helpful information that will prepare others to be aware of this pain point when they get to it. 👍
Thanks for the video. My 13 year old was messing around on his 2021 big wheel and bottomed it out several times. He is 150lbs. The front forks are sweating. I better do this upgrade before the rear shock gets blown out.
I just purchased a used 2023 CRF125FB,this thing still looks brand new,still has the tits on the tires and the painted stripes, not a scratch on it,question,it shifts strange,from 1st to second gear has a weird clunk,from 2nd to 3rd not so bad but still there,and from 3rd to 4th still there but much quieter,is this normal for this bike ? I have watched youtube videos on this bike and I do hear the noise on some of them,how is yours ? Thanks for the great video
So I do know what you are talking about. To me, the hard shift is something I’m just probably used to from owning lower cc Honda dirt bikes, but I am aware of it. I think one of the things that makes the 125F models so nice are that they are geared so low (especially for first gear) that you can basically just slowly let out the clutch with no throttle and it will just chug along. And though this is great for slow trail riding and for beginners, I wonder if the incredibly low gear ratio doesn’t add to the hard shifting in the low gears. But I will say that these bikes are so bulletproof, that the transmission can take just about anything. With that said, I would strongly recommend that if the oil has not been changed from its initial break in period, I would absolutely do that! It never hurts to verify those levels as well on a new-ish bike. Additionally, I would also verify that your chain tension is at that expected amount of play. I hope this helps - thank you for watching!
Yes, if you don’t have the proper tools, it can be tricky to swap the spring out on the stock 125F shock. So though more expensive, an aftermarket shock may be the best solution for some.
@@brandonwatsonmedia I am 200 lbs and I have stock shock, if you had to do it over would you buy a bbr shock or do same by buying spring only? Does bbr spring actually bolt right in or are mods required? I am not very mechanical inclined. Also how much will it cost to have someone compress the spring for you to put it on vs just buying the entire bbr shock?
@@detroitpyro2859 I am by no means an expert, but here are my thoughts: Q: If you had to do it over would you buy a bbr shock or do same by buying spring only? A: For me, at the time, I didn't really have an other options for the rear shock. But now that I see more shock replacement options like VONKAT, DNM, RACING BROTHERS SHICANE SHOCK, I would be VERY interested in just going that route. For the spring, you want to make sure it is the 975lb for your weight. Q: Does bbr spring actually bolt right in or are mods required? A: The Honda stock shock has a threaded bolt that is "crimped" at the top (mentioned in other comments), that makes it kind of a pain to get the U bolt end off and on again. Q: I am not very mechanical inclined. How much will it cost to have someone compress the spring for you to put it on vs just buying the entire bbr shock? A: Based on your mechanical inclination, I would say that you would probably not want personally undertake replacing the the rear spring on the stock Honda shock. I don't know how much it would cost you to have it professionally done. I would guess something like $90 based on an hourly shop rate - that's a total guess.
That’s an interesting question. But I have not seen any specs like that from BBR regarding their springs and rider weight recommendations. Which does make sense because that onus should be dictated primarily from the manufacturer of the bike itself. Considering that you have frame, swingarm, fork, etc integrity considerations. Thank you for watching!
Just wanted to throw this out there. Since making this video, there are now (finally) a lot of new rear shock options out there to choose from. For those of you who might not want to undertake the effort of swapping out the rear shock spring, you might check out other options for a new shock and 975lb spring combination like the: Vontak - amzn.to/3TsO2Q8 or other new shocks from DNM or Racing Brothers. Thank for watching!
After watching your video and others I did not want to go through the trouble of trying to replace the stock shock spring with the BBR spring,so I elected to purchase the Vonkat shock with adjustable rebound and preload,perfect fit replacement for the stock rear shock,I also replaced the fork springs with the BBR springs,I have yet to try them out because it is 110 dg. here in Cali,but just sitting on the bike I can feel a big big difference,I weigh 175 lbs
@@05rickieI’ve had several people write me and say that they love the feel (and ease of installation!) of the Vontak rear shock paired with the BBR front springs. Thank you for commenting on your experience and impression of that setup. And thank you for watching!
Great video thanks. Everything I needed to know to upgrade the suspension on my CRF125FB.
Awesome! So glad it helped.
@brandonwatsonmedia Absolutely 💯 Thankyou. -NW Ohio
Good info indeed 💯 -NW Ohio
Awesome! Thank you for watching and commenting.
Love the video I got the small wheel any front springs for my bike ?
Thank you! I believe the "small wheel" 125F front fork springs are listed on the same BBR page as the "big wheel" springs: bbrmotorsports.com/Products/Products.aspx?Prod=650-HCF-1205. But the part number for the small wheel springs is 650-HCF-1305. But DEFINITELY contact BBR to make sure! 👍
That rear spring is a pain! That U bracket is screwed on to the threaded rod but the factory uses some sort of triangle pointed press to make it permanent. I was able to get it off but now cant get it back on. Currently my brand new bike is un-ridable. I am hoping i can fix the threads with a tap and die.
Yeah, I was VERY fortunate to have my mechanic friend help me with that. I did run into that very same issue and what my friend did was do some LIGHT work on the tip of that bolt with his Bench Grinder and then we were able to screw that U attachment back on. He may have also used a tap and die as well just to finish smoothing it out - I can't remember. I think we also added a little Loctite in there after the fact for some extra security. Hope that helps.
@@brandonwatsonmedia Thanks for advice. I cutoff about 1/4 inch of the threaded end, that was flared from the factory, with a portable band saw and was able to screw the clevis back on. Thanks again.
Awesome! And thank you for taking the time to leave a comment about this. Hopefully, it provides some helpful information that will prepare others to be aware of this pain point when they get to it. 👍
Thanks for the video. My 13 year old was messing around on his 2021 big wheel and bottomed it out several times. He is 150lbs. The front forks are sweating. I better do this upgrade before the rear shock gets blown out.
Absolutely! I hope it helps.
What model Acerbis are those handguards? I'm looking for some that'll fit mine.
Hey, thanks for watching. They are the: Acerbis 22397.239 Moto Hand Guards, White/Red, Size Unifit
I just purchased a used 2023 CRF125FB,this thing still looks brand new,still has the tits on the tires and the painted stripes, not a scratch on it,question,it shifts strange,from 1st to second gear has a weird clunk,from 2nd to 3rd not so bad but still there,and from 3rd to 4th still there but much quieter,is this normal for this bike ? I have watched youtube videos on this bike and I do hear the noise on some of them,how is yours ? Thanks for the great video
So I do know what you are talking about. To me, the hard shift is something I’m just probably used to from owning lower cc Honda dirt bikes, but I am aware of it. I think one of the things that makes the 125F models so nice are that they are geared so low (especially for first gear) that you can basically just slowly let out the clutch with no throttle and it will just chug along. And though this is great for slow trail riding and for beginners, I wonder if the incredibly low gear ratio doesn’t add to the hard shifting in the low gears. But I will say that these bikes are so bulletproof, that the transmission can take just about anything. With that said, I would strongly recommend that if the oil has not been changed from its initial break in period, I would absolutely do that! It never hurts to verify those levels as well on a new-ish bike. Additionally, I would also verify that your chain tension is at that expected amount of play. I hope this helps - thank you for watching!
Rear spring isn't worth the headache just buy a complete aftermarket rear shock
Yes, if you don’t have the proper tools, it can be tricky to swap the spring out on the stock 125F shock. So though more expensive, an aftermarket shock may be the best solution for some.
Best video ever, thank you so much!! Really appreciated how easy you made this!!! ❤
@@detroitpyro2859I really appreciate you taking the time to write me and let me know that! Thank YOU!
@@brandonwatsonmedia I am 200 lbs and I have stock shock, if you had to do it over would you buy a bbr shock or do same by buying spring only? Does bbr spring actually bolt right in or are mods required? I am not very mechanical inclined. Also how much will it cost to have someone compress the spring for you to put it on vs just buying the entire bbr shock?
@@detroitpyro2859 I am by no means an expert, but here are my thoughts:
Q: If you had to do it over would you buy a bbr shock or do same by buying spring only?
A: For me, at the time, I didn't really have an other options for the rear shock. But now that I see more shock replacement options like VONKAT, DNM, RACING BROTHERS SHICANE SHOCK, I would be VERY interested in just going that route. For the spring, you want to make sure it is the 975lb for your weight.
Q: Does bbr spring actually bolt right in or are mods required?
A: The Honda stock shock has a threaded bolt that is "crimped" at the top (mentioned in other comments), that makes it kind of a pain to get the U bolt end off and on again.
Q: I am not very mechanical inclined. How much will it cost to have someone compress the spring for you to put it on vs just buying the entire bbr shock?
A: Based on your mechanical inclination, I would say that you would probably not want personally undertake replacing the the rear spring on the stock Honda shock. I don't know how much it would cost you to have it professionally done. I would guess something like $90 based on an hourly shop rate - that's a total guess.
what chain guide is on your rear
It's a Diamond Minis Chain Guide.
@@brandonwatsonmedia I also just ordered the dm chain guard!
I know this has nothing to do with the video, but Damn, you are gorgeous.
Well thank you for making my day with such a flattering comment - though I know you are probably referring to the dirt bike. 😁 thank you for watching!
Does bbr say what the rider weight is with the aftermarket Springs installed I imagine it's got to go up to 200 + pounds right
That’s an interesting question. But I have not seen any specs like that from BBR regarding their springs and rider weight recommendations. Which does make sense because that onus should be dictated primarily from the manufacturer of the bike itself. Considering that you have frame, swingarm, fork, etc integrity considerations. Thank you for watching!