Modifying a Bond Minicar steering.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2025
- In this video I show you how I modified a Bond Minicar steering assembly
by converting it from conical bushes to a more civilised roller, ball and needle bearing set.
I am often asked to have a look at 'this and that' and can I do anything, most of the time I can, but only on the understanding that I only make these modifications on the further understanding that they are for show purposes only, and not to be used on public roads.
I cannot acept any responsibility for these modifications because they are not proven or classed as safe by any authority.
Hmm, I remember the Bond Mini-Car. I had a friend who had one. Not the most practical vehicle to do your courting in! Gosh, but the more modern generations wouldn’t credit what people did to get mobile in the 1940s, 50s and 60s. Loved the video, thanks for all that info on set-ups. Your work is appreciated. Les
Glad you enjoyed the video.
They probably weren't machined flat in the first place! Brilliant video.
That is all ways a possibility Dave
Well what a breath of fresh air & a trip down memory lane for me. My neighbour had one. He had bought it a few weeks prior to me seeing him pulling it out of his council garage on a morning. I was a 15 year old schoolboy. That was 54 years ago. I was mad on Villiers & was just building a Ambassador super S. 2T in my shed ready for my 16th birthday. One night while he was putting it away i asked him about it , being curious. He took me out in it. I asked what the switch on the dash was for. He said i have no idea. It was reverse. After much looking around the car i then realised the 2 points set up & how the starter was dual polarity. Strangely the guy was my best mate after that. I recently just missed a Royal Enfield Turbo twin 4T. It is on my bucket list. Of course along with a thousand other things. Fantastic video , & you are truly very skilled.
Hi, I’ve worked on many cars and bikes and because I live quite close to a guy on the committee of the Bond Minicar club, they appear to have attached themselves to me for many repairs including brakes, steering and suspension. Its nice when I get other stuff, witch I do and I often have to turn some stuff away.
I hope you get your RE Turbo Twin.
regards
I watched with great interest how you improved the Steering on the Bond Minicar. I owned a beautiful '57 Mark D back in '68. The Bond failed an MOT for excessive play in the Aluminium Casting. I seem to remember that I purchased new Bushes, but (from memory) I seem to remember that the Bushes were parallel - and with a small top hat. Anyhow, I changed these, and the Bond passed the MOT. I never really noticed any problem with the steering, even with worn bushes in that Casting. BUT - what scared me the most , was the tiny Brakes!! Rod and Clevis Pin, with worn Clevis Pin Holes, gave lots of "free Play" on the pedal. Yet, the Bond passed an MOT on the (very poor) brakes!! Nice to see how you overcame the 'woolly' steering issues, and wondered if you applied gentle heat to the Casting in order to aid a good fitment of the Needle Race, and Taper Bearing. You are meticulous, and you have (most probably) spent your lifetime as a Fitter/Machinist, and enjoying your workshop. I had great days in my Bond, making trips from Blackburn Lancs to Wales with Camping Gear. I only paid 7 (seven) pounds for the Bond, which was absolutely immaculate, with cream convertible Hood, and cream interior. SIBA Dynastart never failed. Memories fade a little these days - but what a car!! Greetings from Sydney Australia.
Hi, I am constantly being asked to make modifications to these magnificent little motorcars, but sadly I can't commit the time required to make and modify all the problems presented to me. However, I am constantly asked to help with one thing or another, this is why I've published videos covering the work I've done that owners can show their local engineer how its possible to make the mods.
The brakes are for the most part barely acceptable and as you may have guessed I have modified the braking system on a '55 Mk 'D' it now stops as good as you could ever want, leaving three short black tyre marks on the road. I will soon be having a crack at making a mould to enable the bond owners club to re-manufacture rear suspension units for themselves, using all the reclaimed metal components and forcing new rubber 'by transfer method' to make as new old suspension units.
regards
@@Thesheddweller Thanks for your reply, and just glad that there is someone with the knowledge and skill to raise these fine little cars back from the brink! It's also hard for me to understand the high value of these mini-cars today. I like the thought that you have also worked on the Braking System, "leaving three black marks" sounds good to me. I never had any problems with the Indespension Units at the rear, they worked fine. From memory (again), I believe that these were also a Casting, and bolted to the chassis with six (6) threaded bolts. I am surprised that some 'modern' conversion is not available for a direct replacement. And (again) from memory, I believe that the Unit Axle was square (inside the Indespension Unit), with four (4) round pieces of rubber, which was compressed by the suspension action. It would not be impossible to get a copy and have someone make those castings again. Modern rubbers do not deteriorate like the old version, as long as the rubber hardness values match the original values, such as EPDM. I googled "Bond Minicar Electric Conversion" yesterday, just to see if there was anyone in the UK who had achieved this! Being made from lightweight aluminium, I figured that (for a local runabout) someone may have placed a Motor in substitution for the Villiers 197/250cc engine. Batteries in the rear, and converted to a two-seater. I'm 73 now, and my daily drive has been a '71 Beetle - since 2004. This has recently been converted to Tesla Battery Pack, and the latest 120HP Electric Drive Motor. Currently, the Beetle needs to undergo re-certification before I can use it on Australian Roads. Beetle has a range of approx. 180kM before recharge. It's been a bucket list item that has taken more than two years, now reaching fruition. You have a well kitted-out Workshop, and I feel that there are not many (like you) who is extremely careful and cautious - in covering every fine detail in your machining and also your approach that has led to fine improvements of the Bond Minicar. Finally, being a 'short' person, (1.6mtrs), I discovered that the Bench Seat in my Bond Mark D wasn't adjustable. I always had to drive it with a thick cushion between me - and the Seat Backrest!! In hindsight, perhaps that was the reason that the Brakes always felt very 'spongy'.
@@peterduxbury927 my mistake it was a 1960 mk’’F’.. the mk’D was other stuff. For the record they all had spongy brakes.
A very good solution for a product that was designed with the materials, bearings and resources available at the time.
Thornycroft/Leyland used mild steel bushings in their gearboxes and ancillary equipment to cover the metric or imperial bearings that were available to them, even into the 90’s.
As to sealing you might look at how Vincent or Arial used felt or neoprene washers to provide sealing solutions.
Again a very good solution.
Hi, as far as the seals are concerned I explained to everyone that a leather, neoprene or felt ring will do the job if they want to, I wrote a note once in their newsletter about this subject. I find if you give people a reason not to do something 'like regular greasing’ it won’t get done, so leaving the option to fit seal rings is an option that gets people to look at what they have and maybe respect it, or maybe give it a squirt and a wipe its easier than fitting seals.
@@Thesheddweller Hi, yes you can lead a horse to water etc.
I would think that the position of the original grease nipple was also a contributing factor to the lack of lubrication to the pivot.
It should have been in such a location that no matter where the suspension link was, lubrication could have been achieved.
Designers/engineers have been the bane of my existence on occasion.
Good job and good luck.
@@pebrede Cheers
Some interesting setup considerations with that casting and as always an ingenious solution.
Thank you, regards
Excellent job Paul. Beautiful machining and a joy to watch.
Hi, Thanks
Outstanding video. Very well described and excellent setups. You are truly a master.
Hi, Thank you.
Thanks for the video, your setup work is first rate, very innovative, thanks for sharing. At about the 12:00 minute mark you talk about having trouble removing the old bearing race. To remove races like that, I either weld around the inside of the race and it falls out, or weld a bit of bar across the race to drive it out from below. Works for valve seats as well. Thanks again :)
Thanks for the info, I couldn't be bothered with all that kaffufal, I knew that I'd be machining that face anyway. The bar welding trick is one I've used in the past.
That was excellent. As a novice to machining I particularly enjoy the highly informative, detailed descriptions of your set ups. The thought process behind why you do things in a certain way is of inestimable value to me.
Thank you very much!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed.
We went to Bled with Dennis, his steering was beautifully smooth! Nice job!
Cheers
A stillson wrench in the UK is pipe wrench in the states. I really enjoy your channel!
I wasn’t sure at the time, thanks for the info. cheers.
It is in the UK too.
@@thecorbies Yeah. it was a brain fart on my part.
Thanks for that, not something i need to do but interesting to see how you approached the job.
Hi, thanks, I take it you’re a Bond club member. Regards.
It's a joy to watch you sir.
Hi, Thank you.
Like your work, thanks for posting.
Cheers, thanks for watching.
Very nice work sir
Hi, Thank you, Regards.
Very interesting video, thanks
You’re welcome, thanks for watching.
That was wonderful! Thank you Paul for sharing
Thanks , Glad you enjoyed.
Hello Paul,
Very nice work... and an enjoyable video... Thank you. You said the parts were from the South of England, is that where you are based?
Take care.
Paul,,
Thank you. No, I’m to the east of the west midlands.
nicely done
Thanks
What an excellent video! I normally have so many questions and you have predicted and answered them all. Extremely educational, thank you. I don't know exactly what a bond car is, although it's fairly clear from context. I'm curious, if these castings are in such poor shape, what drives the decision to rehab them instead of creating a new weldment? Presumably these are collectible, there is a goal of keeping them as original as possible?
Hi. These little cars are fantastic little cars from the late 40’s to the mid 60’s. They are probably not the smallest car in the world but the engines are between 180cc and 250cc for the Minicars and the bigger range up to 2000cc I believe.
The reason they don’t get new castings is that the process is an expensive one, and I think they would be the first to admit that they haven’t exactly got very big purses. They currently have a world wide shortage of rear suspension units and I've been asked if I will make a transfer mould to enable them to repair thousands of these old units. I might make a video about this when I get time. regards
@@Thesheddweller would be good to get a solution for the "indespension" units as fitting 2nd hand ones is a huge gamble!
This might help explain what a Bond Minicar is: ruclips.net/video/DykinDnvbqM/видео.html
@@Thesheddweller thanks much, I think I understand the appeal
@@jpsimon206 I wouldn’t have one. I’m too busy.
do you know maartin in australia.....'the old foundryman. ' is his channel. he did castings for a bond car.
British casting is very rough compared to American castings.
These are very old castings, They aren’t rough for the year they were cast, but they do have blow holes, a sign of the quality that was ordered at the time. The better the casting the higher the cost. regards
Braking tips, err I mean making chips….😅
Hi, sometimes there’s not much difference.
Great video, thanks for posting…
Hi, you're very welcome.