Hi Eric, stumbled upon your video while I was building my TRX4 Sport kit. Although this is my first crawler, I've built quite a few shaft driven touring cars where gear backlash adjustment is important. Being a crawler, at first I didn't care much about shimming the gearbox shaft play to tight tolerances. But once the gearbox assembly was complete, I noticed that there was some binding. So I redid it again in detail, checking rotation of each shaft before the next and have found more areas of drag. I did the shim adjustment following the method in your video which helped a lot! I also found that once the screws were tightened, the non-threaded end of the input shaft (the protruding part of the shaft with the hole) would drag on the gearbox walls and 3-gear cover as it's so close to then, and require shaving some material off the case and 3-gear cover. Then on to the 3-gear side, the peaks of the 27T gears would ever so slightly drag around the plastic posts where the screws fit into, again solved by shaving some plastic off. Lastly, after several attempts of figuring out why the 3-gear shafts would bind when its cover was tightened, I figured that the raised lips around the 3-gear case was the cause of the issue, probably due to plastic tolerances. There's likely a small gap between the the part of the cover where the screws fit over, and the small plastic posts / dowels on the main case, and once the screws were tightened, the gap is reduced but this causes the bearing seats on the cover to deform slightly and in turn binding the gear shafts. This was solved by wet sanding the 3-gear cover on a flat surface to reduce the thickness of the lip around it, effectively reducing the gap so that the cover is seated properly over the case and wont deform when tightening the screws. I'm not saying that all kits have this problem but it's worth a look if anyone is looking to free up the transmission a bit more.
Hi Eric! Super Video! It is exakt the same Problem at the Axial 1/10 III Jeep's!!! Mighty Tolerances... AXIAL and RADIAL... In any moving Parts like shafts or gears... Less quality for more money... Thats the way it goes everywher... Cars, Clothes... It does'nt matter what is is...Greatings from Germany! 😎
@@ericsrcexpeditions Hi Eric! Your idea is very helpfull! There is also a man(oldtimer-expert) who sealed the Traxxas TRX4-gearbox engine-sili-gasket and filled it with SAE 80W gearbox-oil. Very interesting, i think! What i have see'n at my Axial Gladiator RTR was a nearly DRY gearbox. I fill it with Bel Ray Water Grease (it has a green Colour) Made for Outborder... Now is silence in the gearbox. I hope you anderstand what i mean. 😉
If you guys found this helpful, please give it a like, or leave a comment so I know it helps! Thanks for watching! (Subscribe if you'd like to as well :D)
I have a crunching nosie sometimes when turning not while moving forward only when turning the wheel back and forth do you know what this could possibly be?
@@ericsrcexpeditions I thought so too so I replaced the servo but nothing improved. i didn't replace the horn though and If it helps you pinpoint what's wrong with it. I did take the wheel off and the caster block I believe it's called and that metal bar came out that goes into the Differential. Once that happened I put everything back together the same way I took it apart. And after I got it back together it maked a cracking noise..... sorry if I didn't explain myself good enough this is my first hobby grade r/c and don't know but about it besides its a trx6
I just Uploaded a video to my channel it should be the only video there if you don't mind do you think you could take a look at it and give me your feedback it's only about 20 seconds long It would be very helpful I've only had the truck for about a week
@@danielbrown7796 Something is definitely binding, and it only clicks when turning left... Maybe the screws securing the links could be loose or the servo horn is rubbing on something, but I can't be sure. When did it start to click (right out of the box, after driving it in rocky terrain, etc.)?
I imagine it would be fine just to leave it if it's the problem described in this video. However, make sure it's not caused by a chipped gear or broken driveshaft pin.
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Just cleaned and re-assembled my TRX-4 Sport and I thought I've broken something, this video helped me find what's wrong, thanks a lot!
Glad this video helped! :)
Wow! Lots of effort to test all possibilities and record it. Respect!
Thank you, really appreciate the kind comments! :)
My TRX4 kit has the same click, now I know why, thank you!
Hi Eric, stumbled upon your video while I was building my TRX4 Sport kit. Although this is my first crawler, I've built quite a few shaft driven touring cars where gear backlash adjustment is important.
Being a crawler, at first I didn't care much about shimming the gearbox shaft play to tight tolerances. But once the gearbox assembly was complete, I noticed that there was some binding. So I redid it again in detail, checking rotation of each shaft before the next and have found more areas of drag.
I did the shim adjustment following the method in your video which helped a lot! I also found that once the screws were tightened, the non-threaded end of the input shaft (the protruding part of the shaft with the hole) would drag on the gearbox walls and 3-gear cover as it's so close to then, and require shaving some material off the case and 3-gear cover.
Then on to the 3-gear side, the peaks of the 27T gears would ever so slightly drag around the plastic posts where the screws fit into, again solved by shaving some plastic off.
Lastly, after several attempts of figuring out why the 3-gear shafts would bind when its cover was tightened, I figured that the raised lips around the 3-gear case was the cause of the issue, probably due to plastic tolerances. There's likely a small gap between the the part of the cover where the screws fit over, and the small plastic posts / dowels on the main case, and once the screws were tightened, the gap is reduced but this causes the bearing seats on the cover to deform slightly and in turn binding the gear shafts. This was solved by wet sanding the 3-gear cover on a flat surface to reduce the thickness of the lip around it, effectively reducing the gap so that the cover is seated properly over the case and wont deform when tightening the screws.
I'm not saying that all kits have this problem but it's worth a look if anyone is looking to free up the transmission a bit more.
Glad I was able to help, and thanks for sharing!! I'm sure it'll be helpful for other TRX-4 Sport owners!
Hi Eric! Super Video! It is exakt the same Problem at the Axial 1/10 III Jeep's!!! Mighty Tolerances... AXIAL and RADIAL... In any moving Parts like shafts or gears... Less quality for more money... Thats the way it goes everywher... Cars, Clothes... It does'nt matter what is is...Greatings from Germany! 😎
Hello Micheal! Thanks for the kind words! Glad you found the video helpful! :)
@@ericsrcexpeditions Hi Eric! Your idea is very helpfull! There is also a man(oldtimer-expert) who sealed the Traxxas TRX4-gearbox engine-sili-gasket and filled it with SAE 80W gearbox-oil. Very interesting, i think! What i have see'n at my Axial Gladiator RTR was a nearly DRY gearbox. I fill it with Bel Ray Water Grease (it has a green Colour) Made for Outborder... Now is silence in the gearbox. I hope you anderstand what i mean. 😉
@@michaeltrilck5680 Yes, I understand what you mean. Thank you for informing me! Have a nice day! :)
Awesome. That same noise came up today on my bronco. THANKS!!!!
Glad it helped!! :)
Great video
If you guys found this helpful, please give it a like, or leave a comment so I know it helps! Thanks for watching! (Subscribe if you'd like to as well :D)
perfect!
Shocking from traxxas to miss a shim. It's shimful, I've done the same to mine ages ago to solve to click.
Nice
Really my 4h rided trx4 sport high trail just started making clicking noise......😅😅😅😅
I have a crunching nosie sometimes when turning not while moving forward only when turning the wheel back and forth do you know what this could possibly be?
It could be a stripped servo horn or a stripped gear in the servo. Did the steering get weaker?
@@ericsrcexpeditions I thought so too so I replaced the servo but nothing improved. i didn't replace the horn though and If it helps you pinpoint what's wrong with it. I did take the wheel off and the caster block I believe it's called and that metal bar came out that goes into the Differential. Once that happened I put everything back together the same way I took it apart. And after I got it back together it maked a cracking noise..... sorry if I didn't explain myself good enough this is my first hobby grade r/c and don't know but about it besides its a trx6
Everything on it is still stock
I just Uploaded a video to my channel it should be the only video there if you don't mind do you think you could take a look at it and give me your feedback it's only about 20 seconds long It would be very helpful I've only had the truck for about a week
@@danielbrown7796 Something is definitely binding, and it only clicks when turning left... Maybe the screws securing the links could be loose or the servo horn is rubbing on something, but I can't be sure. When did it start to click (right out of the box, after driving it in rocky terrain, etc.)?
I actually like the click on my TRX4. It gives it a more mechanical vibe. I am trying to quieten the pinion-spur screech, though.
Is it ok to just leave it?
I imagine it would be fine just to leave it if it's the problem described in this video. However, make sure it's not caused by a chipped gear or broken driveshaft pin.