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Great video, may I ask how you cut the acrylic did you use a certain tool?

This has got to be the best video on how to remove that damn middle stick. I had to ask my husband to remove it for me… sadly he can’t remove the motor piece 😅

Is it ok to just leave it?

Thank you for this nice video. We also have this RC and we love it.

Are these gtr shocks XX-Long? Or the regular gtr shocks

Brooo this is awsome 😮😮🎉🎉😊

Nice. 👍

You can also just pull the strap the get that little red block out

I'm setting up my slash 4x4 for racing and someone recommended this due to limited travel in the front on the slash. Once I did it, the camber link was blocking the shock, so I see how you put them in the rear to resolve. Thanks Eric.

Nice video! Ive been using a center diff for months now and the power distribution is more even all around but also more suitable for higher traction surfaces. Looser surface i would stick with a slipper clutch imo.

Great Job!! How's it handle?

Hey everybody, leave a like and/or subscribe if you'd like to see more instructional content like this! Thanks for your support! 😄

That’s a great idea!!! Clear windows look much nicer. They make these beautiful bodies with nice details but with ugly unrealistic Blacked out windows???

I got a 10 ii kit yet to build. Your build series will be very helpful. Thank you very much for that. I can see you are still using the stock shocks. How are they holding so far ?

Hey everybody, leave a like and/or subscribe if you'd like to see more instructional content like this! Most of all, thanks for your support! 😁

Hi. I have a ECX temper gen 2 with plastic axles. I broke the mount on the diff housing (2nd one I've broke). Are these diffs plastic or aluminum? Just curious if I buy these and end up breaking them aswell (where the lower suspension arms attach to the diff).

Can I run 3s us with the system? I don’t want to overheat I just bash and do jumps.

Do u have to peel of the skin?

Needs smaller wheels. Throw some M chassis wheels on there 🤣

Don’t this just shave the inside a bit if the front arms so you can fit the rear shocks on them this is a waste of time

Thanks for sharing brotha, but i find no point of doing this to my slashes. There are other mods to do that will actually make more sense. ✌️🤠

Awesome trailing sweet rig and fantastic footage!! Big 👍🏻and new sun!

Beautiful sand trail👌🤩

Great video

Booooooring. I don't need to see them bashed but this is just sooooo slooooooow.

Nice run. The SCX10 sure is awesome. I like how you use a bike to transport your RC's. Often times I have to hike to location and carrying a bunch of stuff is a pain. 🏆🏆

Love the video I have one of my own but I put a big block engine in it and monster truck wheels and a whole bunch of other stuff but you will have a ton of fun with that truck if you break it in Adam drake method don't follow traxxxas break in method

What is the box dimensions?

Thanks!

You spend that kinda money on a toy get a plane way better and more fun

I actually like the click on my TRX4. It gives it a more mechanical vibe. I am trying to quieten the pinion-spur screech, though.

Love to watch a video when these wonderful r/cs aren’t being destroyed. Thank you.

Great vid content.

awesome rc car, nice video

nice rc car

rc crawler great,nice video

Nice. It just depends where you going to drive your Rc. When you need more torque. Is at home bashing I want more top end. You want torque/ acceleration when you go to the track. Cause of the jumps and turns. Usually at the track there’s a turn then a jump and that’s when you need acceleration.

Hey eeicyhpw comes your front camber links were the way they were from atop view there crossed towards the rear

Loved it better luck next time 👍🏼😀

Nice rig 👌 i subscribe 211 🤙

super, friend

That’s awesome

Awesome video in truck. Subscribed

Heavier Shock oil for the front could help or lighter Shock oil for the rear

Hi Eric, stumbled upon your video while I was building my TRX4 Sport kit. Although this is my first crawler, I've built quite a few shaft driven touring cars where gear backlash adjustment is important. Being a crawler, at first I didn't care much about shimming the gearbox shaft play to tight tolerances. But once the gearbox assembly was complete, I noticed that there was some binding. So I redid it again in detail, checking rotation of each shaft before the next and have found more areas of drag. I did the shim adjustment following the method in your video which helped a lot! I also found that once the screws were tightened, the non-threaded end of the input shaft (the protruding part of the shaft with the hole) would drag on the gearbox walls and 3-gear cover as it's so close to then, and require shaving some material off the case and 3-gear cover. Then on to the 3-gear side, the peaks of the 27T gears would ever so slightly drag around the plastic posts where the screws fit into, again solved by shaving some plastic off. Lastly, after several attempts of figuring out why the 3-gear shafts would bind when its cover was tightened, I figured that the raised lips around the 3-gear case was the cause of the issue, probably due to plastic tolerances. There's likely a small gap between the the part of the cover where the screws fit over, and the small plastic posts / dowels on the main case, and once the screws were tightened, the gap is reduced but this causes the bearing seats on the cover to deform slightly and in turn binding the gear shafts. This was solved by wet sanding the 3-gear cover on a flat surface to reduce the thickness of the lip around it, effectively reducing the gap so that the cover is seated properly over the case and wont deform when tightening the screws. I'm not saying that all kits have this problem but it's worth a look if anyone is looking to free up the transmission a bit more.

nice job performs really well. are you going t change that pinion about 13t or 15t works well i my slash.keep up the great work.

slow the videos down for smoother video quality and better suspension action! you can watch vids from Hoon's rc , Korea Rc film!

Hey everyone! I have another toy grade car similar to this one (also a 1/14th scale Lamborghini), if any of you are interested to see the whole conversion process, leave a comment and I will make a video with that car (maybe with a better ESC and a more robust steering mechanism). Thanks for watching and have a nice day!

Mounting the shock out wider effectively stiffens the suspension (less leverage over the shock) and reduces droop at the same time. Both can be useful for controlling chassis roll in turns. Less rear droop will also mean that there will be less weight shift forward under braking, which can reduce how turn-in under trail braking (braking into the start of the turn shifts weight onto the front tires, increasing bite - less rear droop means the rear end stays lower so less weight transfer) - which will also make it drive more stable. A second adjustment you can try is to move the inner camber links down one hole. This will move the roll centre of the chassis closer to the centre of gravity, meaning it reduce chassis roll. Less roll will also make it more planted, especially for back to back turns, but will come at the cost of reduced traction - chassis roll puts weight on the outside tires increasing traction. You can play with changing the roll center independently front/back, to take away or add traction.

Thing is, after the vehicle is dirty, it can be a major headache to remove the module, which, is most likely, when most people will remove it (repairs, cleaning, motor swap etc.) their first time. I recommend checking gear mesh and adding your own locktight to the pinion grub(set) screw and motor mount screws, before the first run, in which case, this video should be helpful enough but, TBH, this isn't a great tutorial. Look elsewhere, as I've seen much better explanations/tips, from other RUclipsrs. Sorry, Eric's RC Expeditions, but you don't want to mislead viewers, or give them light weight tutorials.