Thank you for the video! Just an FYI/File for Future Reference: Last week, I worked with Whitley Fuel in Okanogan, WA, to find replacement transmission oil for my 9N. They called their distributor and talked with a 35 year veteran sales rep. He told them I needed to be careful of new oils that may contain sulfates and related compounds, because they would deteriorate "yellow metals" in the transmission/PTO, such as copper, bronze or brass. Apparently such metals were common in transmissions/PTOs during the era when these tractors were new. Straight 90 weight (the original recommendation) without sulfate additives, he said, is no longer available anywhere. I had to go with a 75-90 multivicosity product, which ran about $165 for 5 gallons. Looking forward to the next session! Best of luck!
I was specifically told not to use synthetic oils in these tractors because it will leak by every gasket on the engine. Apparently the rear main seal in those is a rope
I agree that most people will recommend conventional oil in older (including carburetor era) engines. At the time of this video, synthetic was what I had on the shelf. In my opinion the debate about using synthetic vs conventional oil on older engines also considers the tolerances (and wear) of the metal parts. Also just my opinion, if the engine was in new condition, automotive synthetic will perform better than conventional oil with the same viscosity on that same engine.
@@TryAdaptLearn from what I understand, synthetic is fine for the actual engine, it just gets by old style seals. I'm very curious to hear if you spring any leaks from using it just because it seems like conventional is starting to get hard to find. I'd appreciate an update on leaks. My personal experience was with a 93 f250. The 460 had a 2 piece rear main seal and it leaked like a siv. I topped it off with conventional and it quit leaking. Let me know man I'd appreciate it.
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately, it will be a while before I get to the transmission/Hydraulic oil. I have the fluid ready but I’m working my way through (and recording) several other systems first.
Thank you for your perspective. I think that there is an ongoing debate over conventional (non synthetic oil) with synthetic oil. A good start is what the manufacturer recommends for the stock engine setup. This comes up with older engines and specifically older engines that have not been rebuilt. I think the main concern is oil viscosity. As far as mixing, I usually will use one or the other. I don't mix the two, but I have changed out to “full synthetic” since that is what I purchased. I mention full synthetic since some oil is marketed and sold as “synthetic” but in fine print it’s synthetic blend, or a mix of synthetic and conventional oil. As far as this video is concerned I just used what I had.
Thank you for the video!
Just an FYI/File for Future Reference: Last week, I worked with Whitley Fuel in Okanogan, WA, to find replacement transmission oil for my 9N. They called their distributor and talked with a 35 year veteran sales rep. He told them I needed to be careful of new oils that may contain sulfates and related compounds, because they would deteriorate "yellow metals" in the transmission/PTO, such as copper, bronze or brass. Apparently such metals were common in transmissions/PTOs during the era when these tractors were new. Straight 90 weight (the original recommendation) without sulfate additives, he said, is no longer available anywhere. I had to go with a 75-90 multivicosity product, which ran about $165 for 5 gallons.
Looking forward to the next session! Best of luck!
I agree with your information and have the encountered the same situation you detailed as far as availability of straight 90 (aka. mineral oil).
1-1/16 wrench for the head, thank you for showing that!
You are welcome, hopefully it'll help. The oil has been changed after recording this video and it was much easier to loosen the hardware.
Wonderful video keep thme coming!
Thank you for watching and your the feedback. There's still more work on the tractor and I'll be sharing more videos of the progress on it.
I was specifically told not to use synthetic oils in these tractors because it will leak by every gasket on the engine. Apparently the rear main seal in those is a rope
I agree that most people will recommend conventional oil in older (including carburetor era) engines. At the time of this video, synthetic was what I had on the shelf. In my opinion the debate about using synthetic vs conventional oil on older engines also considers the tolerances (and wear) of the metal parts.
Also just my opinion, if the engine was in new condition, automotive synthetic will perform better than conventional oil with the same viscosity on that same engine.
@@TryAdaptLearn from what I understand, synthetic is fine for the actual engine, it just gets by old style seals. I'm very curious to hear if you spring any leaks from using it just because it seems like conventional is starting to get hard to find. I'd appreciate an update on leaks. My personal experience was with a 93 f250. The 460 had a 2 piece rear main seal and it leaked like a siv. I topped it off with conventional and it quit leaking. Let me know man I'd appreciate it.
Are you going to be doing the transmission/ hydraulic next? I really need to do that one and I hope to learn from you on this one.
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately, it will be a while before I get to the transmission/Hydraulic oil. I have the fluid ready but I’m working my way through (and recording) several other systems first.
Hey , I know the torque specification on the engine oil drain plug. It's = Tight .
Could be, just not over tight. Since this first oil change the plug has been a lot easier to remove with the new gasket.
1 or 2 ugga duggas is all that’s needed
Don't mix non synthetic oil with synthetic oil....
Thank you for your perspective.
I think that there is an ongoing debate over conventional (non synthetic oil) with synthetic oil. A good start is what the manufacturer recommends for the stock engine setup. This comes up with older engines and specifically older engines that have not been rebuilt. I think the main concern is oil viscosity. As far as mixing, I usually will use one or the other. I don't mix the two, but I have changed out to “full synthetic” since that is what I purchased. I mention full synthetic since some oil is marketed and sold as “synthetic” but in fine print it’s synthetic blend, or a mix of synthetic and conventional oil. As far as this video is concerned I just used what I had.