Your ingenuity is what makes you you! Necessity is truly the mother of invention in the presence of an ingenious individual! May God bless you sir. Thanks for sharing your solutions; to put it simply you're a problem solver. That's what we like; you getting it done when many couldn't, when I couldn't.
Just a thought, that "hole saw" is better used to make 1 part and use as a template. That way, you rough cut all your holes in the thin stock, lay the template on them, and zip around with a flush cutting bit on a router. I make cornhole boards, and this method is SUPER fast....and much safer.
Thanks for adding some education about static and dust explosions, Jerry. As a fire investigator, I've seen some shops destroyed by dust and static. A friend of mine with OSHA worked a case years ago at a big cabinet shop that caused a fatality. They had a very primitive and unmaintained dust collection system. There were two explosions in that one - first a little once in the plenum of a large sander - but that boom shook the whole place and kicked years of dust off the rafters - the second explosion blew the wall out of the building and killed the operator. Sad, but preventable. To the home shop guys holding off on dust collection systems - keep in mind that some (especially exotic) woods have toxins in them, and when you inhale that dust, it ends up in your lungs or just drips down the back of your throat and you end up eating it. Great video, Jerry!
I see nothing wrong with using the silicone, that stuff will hold like crazy and give you a good seal for years. Works on plywood and PVC just fine. I hate the smell, and it will get on everything, somehow, but it works just fine for things like this. All my sawdust throwing machines other than the router are out in the garage and I open the door when I use them. All the hand tools live in the downstairs shop, where, oddly enough, I have the dust collector. Going to have to change that, some day... Thanks again for yet another great video. Happy holidays and all that.
I love an honest video where someone is showing us how they worked it out. In essence this design is very simple but it's all those finer points about how you're actually going to make the thing that really count. Good video
This is a good example of necessity being the mother of invention a Merry Christmas to Jerry his Family and the Band and all who follow Jerry on Here may you all have a wonderful and fruitful New Year.
Thanks for the video. I made nine of them. I used the underlayment for six of them and 1/4" birch plywood for the remaining three. After assembling the first two I found they were very difficult to operate even using paste wax. To solve this problem on the remaining seven I included strips of 1/32" veneer with the body-plate separators. Bingo!
I have some of those cheap plastic gates. If you use a hacksaw and cut a small square out of the corners to make the slide channel open at the end, they become self cleaning .The slide will eject the jammed channel once you open it up. Try it before you break them apart! ( I also made some like Jerry's and they work very well.) Thanks for your channel I always learn something.
This video was so pragmatic and no nonsense. Megwitch! Thank you for sharing. I am also reconsidering running my duct-work on the floor vice ceiling. Gravity does indeed work, ;-)
I can tell that's been bugging you for a while. Glad you got it finally addressed proper. This is a great design & tutorial. When you cracked the old gate apart I couldn't help but think "Gee, Jerry's always taking tops and backs off, this is cake!" :) Just a few points that comes to mind. You're absolutely correct concerning the 45' connectors, it's no different with HVAC or your house water system. Air and water act the same way fluidically, the straightest path is always best. That hole cutting bit is called a Tree-pan tool in case you were wondering. GREAT idea with the bare wire wrapped around the main vacuum airlines to dissipate the static charge!!! That's a keeper nugget! ;) When you're doing "production" work whether it be wood, steel, plastic or any other material, always use "stops" on your tables or with your vises. You can use your good clamps on blocks of wood and put them all on the same side that's comfortable for you to put & take work pieces. Then just use a good heavy spring clamp to lock down the part against the stops (side & back=X & Y) for machining keeping your fingers completely away from the cutter. They'll cut you bad in a NY second! Time to take some time off for family, Jer. You deserve it!!! Merry Christmas to your and yours and A Happy New Year to all! See you in 2020! Wow, is it just me or does that sound really strange... 2020...
They also make wide or long sweep 90 deg elbows in 4". They do however take more space. I bought some from my local HD and they had to order them as they did stock the wide sweeps. They are very expensive. The wye is called a sanitary wye.
Thankyou Jerry. I'll use your design to improve the power of my dust collection system. Timely reminder to install static charge wires too., Thanks. Merry Christmas from Australia.
Thanks for this, the timing is very good. Thumbs up to crush a troll. :-) When I was a young man, many moons ago, I used to work as a plumber. You can buy elbows and tees in short, medium, or long sweeps, and you're right that the fittings you want are all long sweep.
Thanks for that tip on the wire. I have watched dozens of videos and no one has mentioned this or thought of it. I seen one video that mentions another safety tip tho. He said to be careful when using dust collector as a big vacuum cause you might suck up a screw, nut or other metallic item. As that shoots in, the impeller could strike it, causing a spark to be introduced into your system that could lead to fire. He suggested strong magnets at your sweep ports to hopefully pick out items like that
Hi Mr. Rosa. This video was really worthwhile for me. Especially because you confirm my thoughts that I need to ground my dust collection system. I am not a lover of epoxies, even after working in a boat building shop for a few years. However, I noticed something in your video that reminded me of myself when I REALLY hated epoxies. You don’t wear gloves when you’re gluing (at least when you were using the white glue and the silicone I didn’t notice you wore gloves). I promise you if you get in the habit of wearing disposable gloves you will begin to like working with epoxies at least a little more. And here is the trick I have learned with disposable gloves. I wear a heavy pair first. They are a black latex/nitrile. Viper I think is the brand. They aren’t cheap, comparatively speaking, but they are very tough. I wear the same pair for two weeks or more. But I am a little careful with them but not especially. The key to wearing the same gloves next to your hands when gluing is over the heavy gloves next to your hands you have to pull on a few pair of cheap vinyl gloves. And you shed those cheapies as they become goopy and slippery. At the end of even a long complicated glue up when you pull off that heavy-duty glove next to your hand, and you have no glue on your hands, you may discover a whole new view on epoxies. I am not saying you will love them. I still don’t love epoxies. But I use them, and I don’t hate them as much. This is also a good way to use Gorilla foaming urethane glue (now THAT is a hate worthy glue). Also, because most people who don’t use epoxies much don’t know, make sure you wear a respirator (not a cheesy doesn’t-do-no-damn-good Chinese Bat Cough mask, but an actual respirator with organic level filter) when you’re using epoxies. The fumes don’t seem problematic, but if you develop an allergy or sensitivity to epoxy you will forever have to take care to not come into contact with epoxy ever again. Thank you again for sharing your skills and your genius, Mr. Rosa.
I know you already have your dust collection system installed but to all who want to design and install one never use PVC white pipe because of the danger of sparks from static electricity buildup. Use ABS black drain piping which will not be affected by static. ABS has carbon embedded in it. Some grey PVC is non-static as well but to be safe use ABS drain pipe. Also you can pull a vacuum easily through wood as some router tables do just that. But since one opening minimum will be vacuuming the closed ones will do just fine so I very much like your innovative solution.
Rosa String Works there is still potential for static on the interior of the pipe so if you haven’t I suggest you run a bare copper wire inside the pipe as well. Just a straight length would suffice. Although in all honesty in a small shop application your setup should be fine. In a more industrial setting the wire inside the pipe is primary to the wire wrap on the exterior. Friction of moving material causes a build up of electrons on the inside of the pipe. The larger the surface area available to long runs of pipe creates a huge potential for build up of static. Either way please continue to make wood stop thinking it’s still a tree and wants to make music instead. Merry Christmas to you, your family and friends of the channel.
The problems you are showing is exactly why I decided not to use PVC in any of my dust collection. The static electricity (even with the ground wire I see installed on your system) really make life a pain. As you said, any loss is a lot of loss. I like your gate design, that should improve things greatly.
Howdy Jerry, These are a ripper of a dust gate, I have been using mine that I knocked up with MDF board for about 3 years now! I reckon it is better to put the two side pieces on and fasten them only with the gate in place. I think you will find in the long run you will have a gate that does not leak at all!!!
Hey there Rosa!!. Happy New Year!!. May this year brings you a plethora of love, health, happiness and good work.!! (And by the way, the final work on your masterpiece RSW 348) 😉😁🍾🥂🎉🎊
Great video! Thanks. I take it you live within driving distance to the Grizzly store with all your fine shop tools. Wish they would put one in Atlanta or Chattanooga.
Merry Christmas Jerry. Thank you for the instructional, educational, and entertaining videos. Hoping you and your family have a safe and wonderful new year.
I am adding to the controversy of grounding vs not grounding. What you have works to eliminate the exterior surface static of the pipes. However PVC is inheriantly an insulator. So the wire on the outside does nothing for the static building up on the inside, where all the combustable material travels. If i had a lot of PVC running in my shop i would also do the grounding but not because of the safety aspect of preventing an explosion but to eliminate all the static shocks built up on the exterior surface of the PVC. And for those asking the static built up comes from the exterior elements. That PVC attracts all those lose electrons in the environment. That PVC is like a magnet for them.
Great vid, Jerry, thanks!! If you want superior silicone strength, try 3M's 5200 silicone. I've used it on boats & torn off fiberglass upon removal, scary tough stuff! They also have a fast cure...
Had a silly laugh, watching you tap in the finish nails @~ 16:10. Couldn't see the hammer strikes. Made it look like the nails were sliding in by themselves. LOL. 😲
A precaution to consider with the silicone adhesive... Make sure your vacuum motors are not brush type DC or Synchronous AC with commutators. The outgassing from the silicone will attack the copper surfaces. If the concentration is high enough it can even cause seizing of moving parts like brushes and bearings. High temperature curing helps.
I am planning a new shop and I will have a dust collector for first time. I look forward to building these blast gates at the start to avoid trouble later. On the pvc end, I wonder if cutting 3/8”-1/2” board, with a hole thru it would help make that connection stronger. You could silicone the pipe in, and wood glue board onto gate. My other idea is to silicone everything together before assembly of the sliding door. I am a bit messy, so that might save me som grief with getting silicone on slides. Great video
A Zune! Man you sort of made the correct choice, at the time. The Zune was a magnitude better than its competition of the iPod. But quality and ability mean nothing when compared to pretense and advertising. And thus the Hipster was born, and the Zune died... But for that time you could easily have double the number of songs at double the bitrates.
A plastic blast gate can be cut off at the ‘dead end’ where it collects dust, so it is now ‘open’; the slider can be removed by chiseling off the tab inside, and cheap 2.5 mm plywood (fits perfectly) can be inserted with a solid section and a hole like your design. Just add the end tabs to the plywood and project is done! Saves a ton of time and the plastic gate frame can be left in place. If the plywood is a bit too tight, as in thick, it can be sanded. My ply was perfect and it is just a shop scrap.
You can use your laser to cut the circles about 4 passes 65% power and 15 mm speed you need air assist nozzel to do this as that deep a cut will cause flame up.
Hey Jerry, practical and instructional as ever! Re: the maximum flow from an ideal fluid with a smooth sided pipe rises to the fourth power of the radius, so the 4” pipe sounds like a good idea... also less likely to block. Happy Christmas.
Jerry, I quickly looked through the comment and didn't see any one say the but if you had used a piece of the pvc instead of the coupling you could have pushed it into the hole flush with the closed gate and that should also prevent further leaks, just a thought.
is all about volume, and in this case bass and tone doesn't count :P merry christmas brother and happy holidays to you and your family! wishing all of you a great one!
The wire on the outside might stop you getting static shocks which is great but it will do nothing for the static charge inside the pipe as pvc is a complete insulator. If you're concerned by the chance of an explosion then you need to run a copper wire inside your pipe system and then grounded.
Watching this with lots of interest.... After a few weeks of getting into the Woodwork thing I started to get a wheezy chest after spending a day in my Garage/Shop. So I went out and purchased 4 inch PVC pipe and 4 metal blast gates, and I got the metal figuring they would be better quality. How wrong was I. I get more suction loss from these metal blast gates than a front door left wide open! Anyway on to plan B after wasting 60 euros. This design of yours seems to be the perfect option.....I have just one question so far I don't have a drill press or one of those killer looking hole cutters, would a jig saw and a not so perfect hole work just as well?
Hi Jerry. Thank You for all the information You are sharing. Is it a good idea to use metal pipes to prevent static build up or will it bring other dangers? When I was five years old (1964) I heard a very loud bang on the road in front of our house. Ofcourse I ran to see what was happening and I saw the street was coverd with shavings. A truck was transporting all the trash from the saw-mill. Years later I learned it was a dust explosion. My best wishes to you all for 2020.
I would think metal would work fine. Though if you do put the wire around it like I did I don't think you have any danger at all. Like I said I was getting shocked the left and right until I put the wire around it and then no shocks whatsoever.
Nice design as far as static is concerned your ground wire is sufficient earthing for your set up. Getting a kick from static is no fun at all I have been caught a few times by it plus it is a source of ignition and no one wants to go off with a bang.
Great video. One question, why is it that many people use these larger pipes or hoses for their system? Wouldn't a smaller diameter increase suction power? Thanks.
Would it work to put blue painters tape where are you don’t want the wax to go. Wax your board and then pull off the tape and you would have the area cleaned for the glue.
I have almost exactly the same gate on my honey bee vacuum. I just cut the corner off where all the debris got stuck. Now it self cleans. Every time I shut the gate it pushes the junk out.
This was helpful - thank you for sharing. It looks like you have quite a bit of piping. How large is your dust collector and do you find it sufficient? I have the $200 harbor freight version and thinking about upgrading.
In regard to 45* joints vs 90* joints, I learned, a long time ago, one 90* bend is worth 10 feet of run. This was speaking to the use of copper water pipe and water pressure but I am sure it also relates to vacuum. Over long runs, you lose suction and every 90* elbow is equal to another 10 feet of run length. With copper pipe or tube, a smooth radius bend has no effect. Of course, you can't do that with PVC or ducting.
The thing that makes them dangerous is that it is difficult to see where the cutter and counterweight are when it is running. If you get even remotely close to it, it will tear your fingers off. One thing that can be done is to paint them a bright color so you can always see it.
@@JasonTHutchinson Good Idea! Hasn't been a problem on my rig, (white base board and fence) but I have certainly worked on drill presses where there is no contrast between the cutter and the background. I also always find a way to mount the work-piece to something solid. I know, I know... not a high production technique.
@@JasonTHutchinson great tip on coloring the ends. To me the most important is speed. A fly cutter should never turn faster then 500-600 rpm and if you can even slower. The recommended speed for a 4" hole is 250 images.meredith.com/wood/images/pdf/speedchart.pdf
I noticed that you aren’t using any of the specialty fittings that you would by at say Rockler. What piping did you use and how did you get that piping to fit in the 4inch hosing?
I just bought the cheap thin drain pipe from a box store. I used the cheap dust collection fittings split them in half and glued them to the wood on one side so that the four inch hose fit. On the other side I just use regular pipe fittings
I don't mean to be an ass but did you consider opening up the edge of the original plastic gates, ie saw off the last half inch (or whatever) so the debris can get pushed out? I guessing the problem might be keeping a good seal.
Yes I did but it would suck air through the opening on the end. And if you understand fluid dynamics air moves much faster than debris therefore you wouldn't move much debris
This guy is actually this man: "He's forgotten more about woodworking than you'll ever know." Excellent design and much respect.
Your ingenuity is what makes you you! Necessity is truly the mother of invention in the presence of an ingenious individual! May God bless you sir. Thanks for sharing your solutions; to put it simply you're a problem solver. That's what we like; you getting it done when many couldn't, when I couldn't.
Just a thought, that "hole saw" is better used to make 1 part and use as a template. That way, you rough cut all your holes in the thin stock, lay the template on them, and zip around with a flush cutting bit on a router. I make cornhole boards, and this method is SUPER fast....and much safer.
Thanks for adding some education about static and dust explosions, Jerry. As a fire investigator, I've seen some shops destroyed by dust and static. A friend of mine with OSHA worked a case years ago at a big cabinet shop that caused a fatality. They had a very primitive and unmaintained dust collection system. There were two explosions in that one - first a little once in the plenum of a large sander - but that boom shook the whole place and kicked years of dust off the rafters - the second explosion blew the wall out of the building and killed the operator. Sad, but preventable. To the home shop guys holding off on dust collection systems - keep in mind that some (especially exotic) woods have toxins in them, and when you inhale that dust, it ends up in your lungs or just drips down the back of your throat and you end up eating it. Great video, Jerry!
I see nothing wrong with using the silicone, that stuff will hold like crazy and give you a good seal for years. Works on plywood and PVC just fine. I hate the smell, and it will get on everything, somehow, but it works just fine for things like this.
All my sawdust throwing machines other than the router are out in the garage and I open the door when I use them. All the hand tools live in the downstairs shop, where, oddly enough, I have the dust collector. Going to have to change that, some day...
Thanks again for yet another great video. Happy holidays and all that.
I love an honest video where someone is showing us how they worked it out. In essence this design is very simple but it's all those finer points about how you're actually going to make the thing that really count. Good video
This is a good example of necessity being the mother of invention a Merry Christmas to Jerry his Family and the Band and all who follow Jerry on Here may you all have a wonderful and fruitful New Year.
Thanks for the video. I made nine of them. I used the underlayment for six of them and 1/4" birch plywood for the remaining three. After assembling the first two I found they were very difficult to operate even using paste wax. To solve this problem on the remaining seven I included strips of 1/32" veneer with the body-plate separators. Bingo!
I have some of those cheap plastic gates. If you use a hacksaw and cut a small square out of the corners to make the slide channel open at the end, they become self cleaning .The slide will eject the jammed channel once you open it up. Try it before you break them apart! ( I also made some like Jerry's and they work very well.) Thanks for your channel I always learn something.
Thanks for posting Jerry. One of my winter projects is to get my DS done right.
This video was so pragmatic and no nonsense. Megwitch! Thank you for sharing. I am also reconsidering running my duct-work on the floor vice ceiling. Gravity does indeed work, ;-)
I have been using it every day since I built them and they hold up and work really really well
Thank you so much Jerry. Great shop tips. As always your doing a great job sharing your knowledge and I always look forward to your videos.
I can tell that's been bugging you for a while. Glad you got it finally addressed proper. This is a great design & tutorial. When you cracked the old gate apart I couldn't help but think "Gee, Jerry's always taking tops and backs off, this is cake!" :)
Just a few points that comes to mind.
You're absolutely correct concerning the 45' connectors, it's no different with HVAC or your house water system. Air and water act the same way fluidically, the straightest path is always best.
That hole cutting bit is called a Tree-pan tool in case you were wondering.
GREAT idea with the bare wire wrapped around the main vacuum airlines to dissipate the static charge!!! That's a keeper nugget! ;)
When you're doing "production" work whether it be wood, steel, plastic or any other material, always use "stops" on your tables or with your vises. You can use your good clamps on blocks of wood and put them all on the same side that's comfortable for you to put & take work pieces. Then just use a good heavy spring clamp to lock down the part against the stops (side & back=X & Y) for machining keeping your fingers completely away from the cutter. They'll cut you bad in a NY second!
Time to take some time off for family, Jer. You deserve it!!! Merry Christmas to your and yours and A Happy New Year to all! See you in 2020! Wow, is it just me or does that sound really strange... 2020...
They also make wide or long sweep 90 deg elbows in 4".
They do however take more space.
I bought some from my local HD and they had to order them as they did stock the wide sweeps.
They are very expensive.
The wye is called a sanitary wye.
Thankyou Jerry. I'll use your design to improve the power of my dust collection system. Timely reminder to install static charge wires too., Thanks. Merry Christmas from Australia.
I really like your gate design, and it appears to have made a huge difference. Merry Christmas!
I'm currently dealing with the exact same problem with these junk blast gates... Glad you found a way to use them to make some that work
Thanks for this, the timing is very good. Thumbs up to crush a troll. :-)
When I was a young man, many moons ago, I used to work as a plumber. You can buy elbows and tees in short, medium, or long sweeps, and you're right that the fittings you want are all long sweep.
Thanks for that tip on the wire. I have watched dozens of videos and no one has mentioned this or thought of it. I seen one video that mentions another safety tip tho. He said to be careful when using dust collector as a big vacuum cause you might suck up a screw, nut or other metallic item. As that shoots in, the impeller could strike it, causing a spark to be introduced into your system that could lead to fire. He suggested strong magnets at your sweep ports to hopefully pick out items like that
Hi Mr. Rosa. This video was really worthwhile for me. Especially because you confirm my thoughts that I need to ground my dust collection system.
I am not a lover of epoxies, even after working in a boat building shop for a few years. However, I noticed something in your video that reminded me of myself when I REALLY hated epoxies. You don’t wear gloves when you’re gluing (at least when you were using the white glue and the silicone I didn’t notice you wore gloves). I promise you if you get in the habit of wearing disposable gloves you will begin to like working with epoxies at least a little more. And here is the trick I have learned with disposable gloves. I wear a heavy pair first. They are a black latex/nitrile. Viper I think is the brand. They aren’t cheap, comparatively speaking, but they are very tough. I wear the same pair for two weeks or more. But I am a little careful with them but not especially. The key to wearing the same gloves next to your hands when gluing is over the heavy gloves next to your hands you have to pull on a few pair of cheap vinyl gloves. And you shed those cheapies as they become goopy and slippery. At the end of even a long complicated glue up when you pull off that heavy-duty glove next to your hand, and you have no glue on your hands, you may discover a whole new view on epoxies. I am not saying you will love them. I still don’t love epoxies. But I use them, and I don’t hate them as much. This is also a good way to use Gorilla foaming urethane glue (now THAT is a hate worthy glue). Also, because most people who don’t use epoxies much don’t know, make sure you wear a respirator (not a cheesy doesn’t-do-no-damn-good Chinese Bat Cough mask, but an actual respirator with organic level filter) when you’re using epoxies. The fumes don’t seem problematic, but if you develop an allergy or sensitivity to epoxy you will forever have to take care to not come into contact with epoxy ever again. Thank you again for sharing your skills and your genius, Mr. Rosa.
I know you already have your dust collection system installed but to all who want to design and install one never use PVC white pipe because of the danger of sparks from static electricity buildup. Use ABS black drain piping which will not be affected by static. ABS has carbon embedded in it. Some grey PVC is non-static as well but to be safe use ABS drain pipe. Also you can pull a vacuum easily through wood as some router tables do just that. But since one opening minimum will be vacuuming the closed ones will do just fine so I very much like your innovative solution.
The wire I described that is grounded kills all the static.
Rosa String Works there is still potential for static on the interior of the pipe so if you haven’t I suggest you run a bare copper wire inside the pipe as well. Just a straight length would suffice. Although in all honesty in a small shop application your setup should be fine. In a more industrial setting the wire inside the pipe is primary to the wire wrap on the exterior. Friction of moving material causes a build up of electrons on the inside of the pipe. The larger the surface area available to long runs of pipe creates a huge potential for build up of static. Either way please continue to make wood stop thinking it’s still a tree and wants to make music instead. Merry Christmas to you, your family and friends of the channel.
Rodney 3133 When did you last see one go on fire - I know there is always a potential for it but I have never seen or heard of it actually happening.
Rodney 3133 check Stumpy Nubs channel, he made a video about that recently.
You and your family have a lovely Christmas, all the best Mark. 🎄
Your creativity is amazing! Merry Christmas & Thanks!
The problems you are showing is exactly why I decided not to use PVC in any of my dust collection. The static electricity (even with the ground wire I see installed on your system) really make life a pain. As you said, any loss is a lot of loss. I like your gate design, that should improve things greatly.
Always getting ideas for new projects from your videos. Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to Rosa String Works... along with Happy New Year.
Howdy Jerry, These are a ripper of a dust gate, I have been using mine that I knocked up with MDF board for about 3 years now! I reckon it is better to put the two side pieces on and fasten them only with the gate in place. I think you will find in the long run you will have a gate that does not leak at all!!!
your cutting tool for cutting circles, is a "trepanning tool"........nice Video...great just the narrative and no thumping Music!!
Hey there Rosa!!. Happy New Year!!. May this year brings you a plethora of love, health, happiness and good work.!! (And by the way, the final work on your masterpiece RSW 348) 😉😁🍾🥂🎉🎊
Great video! Thanks. I take it you live within driving distance to the Grizzly store with all your fine shop tools. Wish they would put one in Atlanta or Chattanooga.
Merry Christmas Jerry. Thank you for the instructional, educational, and entertaining videos. Hoping you and your family have a safe and wonderful new year.
I am adding to the controversy of grounding vs not grounding. What you have works to eliminate the exterior surface static of the pipes. However PVC is inheriantly an insulator. So the wire on the outside does nothing for the static building up on the inside, where all the combustable material travels.
If i had a lot of PVC running in my shop i would also do the grounding but not because of the safety aspect of preventing an explosion but to eliminate all the static shocks built up on the exterior surface of the PVC.
And for those asking the static built up comes from the exterior elements. That PVC attracts all those lose electrons in the environment. That PVC is like a magnet for them.
You would have to prove that to me. I have been running it this way for a 4 or more years without a hint of trouble.
“I design on the fly”
Amen brother. You got that right.
This video was amazing! What an awesome job and excellent explanation! Thank you. I would like to see how you made the whole system.
Jerry that’s one heck of a sucker you put together. May the force be with you. 😂👍🌬
All us old guys have an obligation to the young to caution them about their lungs. You done right.
Great vid, Jerry, thanks!! If you want superior silicone strength, try 3M's 5200 silicone. I've used it on boats & torn off fiberglass upon removal, scary tough stuff! They also have a fast cure...
Merry Christmas to you and yours Mr. Rosa. Thank you for all your hard work, keeping us entertained. All the best in 2020.
G'day Jerry, I have just watched your video and noticed you used mm and inches, thank you 😁
Great video Jerry 👍🇬🇧🎄🕊❄️
Great work, Jerry. Thanks for the tutorial.
Merry Christmas
Had a silly laugh, watching you tap in the finish nails @~ 16:10.
Couldn't see the hammer strikes. Made it look like the nails were
sliding in by themselves. LOL.
😲
i love your design iam gonna absolutely implement those incredible blast gates
A precaution to consider with the silicone adhesive... Make sure your vacuum motors are not brush type DC or Synchronous AC with commutators. The outgassing from the silicone will attack the copper surfaces. If the concentration is high enough it can even cause seizing of moving parts like brushes and bearings. High temperature curing helps.
I am planning a new shop and I will have a dust collector for first time. I look forward to building these blast gates at the start to avoid trouble later. On the pvc end, I wonder if cutting 3/8”-1/2” board, with a hole thru it would help make that connection stronger. You could silicone the pipe in, and wood glue board onto gate. My other idea is to silicone everything together before assembly of the sliding door. I am a bit messy, so that might save me som grief with getting silicone on slides. Great video
You got a new subscriber with this video. Nice job. I think I may have a file to 3D print the connectors. I'm going to check. Thank you for this
A Zune!
Man you sort of made the correct choice, at the time.
The Zune was a magnitude better than its competition of the iPod. But quality and ability mean nothing when compared to pretense and advertising. And thus the Hipster was born, and the Zune died... But for that time you could easily have double the number of songs at double the bitrates.
A plastic blast gate can be cut off at the ‘dead end’ where it collects dust, so it is now ‘open’; the slider can be removed by chiseling off the tab inside, and cheap 2.5 mm plywood (fits perfectly) can be inserted with a solid section and a hole like your design. Just add the end tabs to the plywood and project is done! Saves a ton of time and the plastic gate frame can be left in place. If the plywood is a bit too tight, as in thick, it can be sanded. My ply was perfect and it is just a shop scrap.
I've been using my design for 2 years and it takes no maintenance at all and it doesn't leak at all
Ah, now if only you were my next door neighbor
You can use your laser to cut the circles about 4 passes 65% power and 15 mm speed you need air assist nozzel to do this as that deep a cut will cause flame up.
Great job Jerry, That is a very good design (Self Cleaning). Merry Xmas to you and yours. I love watching your videos always entertaining.
Hey Jerry, practical and instructional as ever! Re: the maximum flow from an ideal fluid with a smooth sided pipe rises to the fourth power of the radius, so the 4” pipe sounds like a good idea... also less likely to block. Happy Christmas.
Just found this video. I'm feeling your pain on the plastic gates. Absolute junk. Thank you Thank you
When silicon is used correctly and surfaces are clean you would have to hang on those fittings for them to come off 👍
Jerry, I quickly looked through the comment and didn't see any one say the but if you had used a piece of the pvc instead of the coupling you could have pushed it into the hole flush with the closed gate and that should also prevent further leaks, just a thought.
I used what I had to use to make it all fit up there are no leaks at its several years afterwards still working perfectly
is all about volume, and in this case bass and tone doesn't count :P merry christmas brother and happy holidays to you and your family! wishing all of you a great one!
This is a great idea!
Marry Christmas to you and your
The wire on the outside might stop you getting static shocks which is great but it will do nothing for the static charge inside the pipe as pvc is a complete insulator. If you're concerned by the chance of an explosion then you need to run a copper wire inside your pipe system and then grounded.
Merry Christmas Jerry!
Same with drainage two 45’s are much better ! Less clogging and easier clean out 👍
Watching this with lots of interest.... After a few weeks of getting into the Woodwork thing I started to get a wheezy chest after spending a day in my Garage/Shop. So I went out and purchased 4 inch PVC pipe and 4 metal blast gates, and I got the metal figuring they would be better quality. How wrong was I. I get more suction loss from these metal blast gates than a front door left wide open!
Anyway on to plan B after wasting 60 euros. This design of yours seems to be the perfect option.....I have just one question so far I don't have a drill press or one of those killer looking hole cutters, would a jig saw and a not so perfect hole work just as well?
Hi Jerry. Thank You for all the information You are sharing. Is it a good idea to use metal pipes to prevent static build up or will it bring other dangers?
When I was five years old (1964) I heard a very loud bang on the road in front of our house. Ofcourse I ran to see what was happening and I saw the street was coverd with shavings. A truck was transporting all the trash from the saw-mill. Years later I learned it was a dust explosion.
My best wishes to you all for 2020.
I would think metal would work fine. Though if you do put the wire around it like I did I don't think you have any danger at all. Like I said I was getting shocked the left and right until I put the wire around it and then no shocks whatsoever.
Nice design as far as static is concerned your ground wire is sufficient earthing for your set up. Getting a kick from static is no fun at all I have been caught a few times by it plus it is a source of ignition and no one wants to go off with a bang.
Great vid !
A fuckjng zune! Sir, you are a legend.
oh man.. the straw trick.. thats genius.
Any thoughts about a hole saw??
I love your video
Please reconsider
Great video. One question, why is it that many people use these larger pipes or hoses for their system? Wouldn't a smaller diameter increase suction power? Thanks.
Thanks been taking I should do a little better at dust collection
Would it work to put blue painters tape where are you don’t want the wax to go. Wax your board and then pull off the tape and you would have the area cleaned for the glue.
I have almost exactly the same gate on my honey bee vacuum. I just cut the corner off where all the debris got stuck. Now it self cleans. Every time I shut the gate it pushes the junk out.
But you also lose suction through that hole. I don't want no loss
@@RosaStringWorks Not the way I do it. It's not your usual setup. It's specially made for honey bee removal.
BTW, How well does the Grizzly equipment work for you? I follow some guys in CO. that have Grizzly machines & they seem to like them...
Home Depot says it 1/5 of an inch and it comes in a 4x8 sheet at $21.78
We have gone to 6 inch gates because of the massive amount of dust we can put out. We have many that are clogged. I will have to try this.
Yeah I regret I didn't go with a 6-inch myself.
This was helpful - thank you for sharing. It looks like you have quite a bit of piping. How large is your dust collector and do you find it sufficient? I have the $200 harbor freight version and thinking about upgrading.
"It's not like I don't know how to mix half and half". LOL!
Could be the problem. Not all epoxies are half and half mixes...
What does your ground wire ground to? Show pic, thanks.
In regard to 45* joints vs 90* joints, I learned, a long time ago, one 90* bend is worth 10 feet of run.
This was speaking to the use of copper water pipe and water pressure but I am sure it also relates to vacuum.
Over long runs, you lose suction and every 90* elbow is equal to another 10 feet of run length.
With copper pipe or tube, a smooth radius bend has no effect. Of course, you can't do that with PVC or ducting.
I’d be interested in finding out what fitting you used to adapt the 2-1/2” flexible hose to the 4” fitting on the gate.
Can you say more about the wire around the outside of the PVC. It appears it was insulated vs bare. I was thinking it needed to be bare.
The problem with working with PVC pipe is finding out the physical dimensions without buying every piece in the store.
For the static discharge, is that bare wire? It doesn't look like it in the video.
Dobra robota
Sound better...
Fly cutters are great, but not for the careless. They have to be sharp, and they have to be tight. Check, double check, triple check.
The thing that makes them dangerous is that it is difficult to see where the cutter and counterweight are when it is running. If you get even remotely close to it, it will tear your fingers off. One thing that can be done is to paint them a bright color so you can always see it.
@@JasonTHutchinson Good Idea! Hasn't been a problem on my rig, (white base board and fence) but I have certainly worked on drill presses where there is no contrast between the cutter and the background. I also always find a way to mount the work-piece to something solid. I know, I know... not a high production technique.
@@JasonTHutchinson great tip on coloring the ends. To me the most important is speed. A fly cutter should never turn faster then 500-600 rpm and if you can even slower. The recommended speed for a 4" hole is 250 images.meredith.com/wood/images/pdf/speedchart.pdf
I noticed that you aren’t using any of the specialty fittings that you would by at say Rockler. What piping did you use and how did you get that piping to fit in the 4inch hosing?
I just bought the cheap thin drain pipe from a box store. I used the cheap dust collection fittings split them in half and glued them to the wood on one side so that the four inch hose fit. On the other side I just use regular pipe fittings
Rosa String Works thank you! Advise, would you use a 1hp dust collector or a 6.5 hp shop vac?
4" or 6" main piping from the DC unit?
I don't mean to be an ass but did you consider opening up the edge of the original plastic gates, ie saw off the last half inch (or whatever) so the debris can get pushed out? I guessing the problem might be keeping a good seal.
Yes I did but it would suck air through the opening on the end. And if you understand fluid dynamics air moves much faster than debris therefore you wouldn't move much debris
@@RosaStringWorks Ah, I should have known you would try the easy way first - thanks for the reply.
Someone should design one that can be printed in 3d.
Someone will... :)
Have you tried CA glue gel?
yes
@@RosaStringWorks It's a pity you didn't invent a Bill Gates!
That's been done, dude.
And quite successfully.