Great video with top tips. Would have had the whole job done in a couple of hours if there wasn't a small problem the new PowerMaster cylinder not pumping but after a quick call to Luke it was resolved by blowing compressed air into the clutch pipe feed hole.
Thanks a lot for this video. I just completed replacing both the master and slave clutch cylinders on my nephews Defender. Went for the option of doing it in situ, and only had to call on help on removing and fitting the lower of the two bolts holding the master cylinder on. Still a pain on one with a 5" lift kit, but didn't fancy the option of removing the pedal box to do it.
Excellent. Very useful vid. I have seen some videos suggesting you take out the pedal box and i guess once out it would be easier. However good to know the job can be done with the box in situ.
Actually I tried re bleeding the existing system after topping up the fluid. It was just to see if I could identify where the leak might be before getting underway. Well so far the clutch is working as normal. No doubt there could still be a leak but whilst it’s working I have decided to leave it for now. However having seen various videos of how to I think when I come to do the job I will remove the pedal box. At least then, whilst a bigger job, it will be easier to inspect all round, repair, repaint etc and ensure all is sound, but that means the vehicle off the road for longer.
Excellent video I ve fitted mine with the pedal box out as it’s a total nightmare in a puma,I fitted a grease nipple to the pedal pivot pin as it was very stiff, now works well but the only way it works is with the pedal high,if you adjust to landrovers spec the clutch bites just off the floor?
Thanks for the great feedback Sean! Yes indeed, for the POWERmaster the pedal will have to sit higher than original, how high is determined by how worn the clutch is.
@@lofclutches4156 I have done my clutch 2-3000 kms ago, and the pedal is already fairly high. I wanted to go with the power master, but if it is even higher, kinds of kill the effect I want. So with the clutch being new, will the pedal be on the higher end, or on the lower end? Thanks :)
yes. in theory you can use pretty much anything within the clutch system, but i would use DOT4 for ease of fluid ownership etc. within a brake system, you need to use DOT4 as the brakes can boil the fluid due to friction/resistance (not a problem in the clutch system).
Just fitted the master cylinder and it now difficult to select a gear, i am hoping its just needs adjusted , i put the nylock nut on as suggested in video just onto the end of the thread , the pedal is high but i think if i adjust it down more the selecting of the gears will be more difficult. Can you suggest anything. Gerry
@@lofclutches4156 I have the power slave and master with power spring and a new lof clutch and I cant get the clutch to lift enough to get it in gear I have bled it till the cows come home what should I do next?
@@andyjota8906 Hi Andy, you cannot fit the POWERslave + POWERmaster together, this will be why, you need to remove one of the power units and keep 1 + the spring!
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Great video with top tips. Would have had the whole job done in a couple of hours if there wasn't a small problem the new PowerMaster cylinder not pumping but after a quick call to Luke it was resolved by blowing compressed air into the clutch pipe feed hole.
Thanks a lot for this video. I just completed replacing both the master and slave clutch cylinders on my nephews Defender. Went for the option of doing it in situ, and only had to call on help on removing and fitting the lower of the two bolts holding the master cylinder on. Still a pain on one with a 5" lift kit, but didn't fancy the option of removing the pedal box to do it.
Excellent. Very useful vid. I have seen some videos suggesting you take out the pedal box and i guess once out it would be easier. However good to know the job can be done with the box in situ.
Did you end up replacing the MC in situ or did you remove the pedal box?
Thanks in advance!
Actually I tried re bleeding the existing system after topping up the fluid. It was just to see if I could identify where the leak might be before getting underway. Well so far the clutch is working as normal. No doubt there could still be a leak but whilst it’s working I have decided to leave it for now. However having seen various videos of how to I think when I come to do the job I will remove the pedal box. At least then, whilst a bigger job, it will be easier to inspect all round, repair, repaint etc and ensure all is sound, but that means the vehicle off the road for longer.
Excellent video I ve fitted mine with the pedal box out as it’s a total nightmare in a puma,I fitted a grease nipple to the pedal pivot pin as it was very stiff, now works well but the only way it works is with the pedal high,if you adjust to landrovers spec the clutch bites just off the floor?
Thanks for the great feedback Sean! Yes indeed, for the POWERmaster the pedal will have to sit higher than original, how high is determined by how worn the clutch is.
@@lofclutches4156 I have done my clutch 2-3000 kms ago, and the pedal is already fairly high. I wanted to go with the power master, but if it is even higher, kinds of kill the effect I want. So with the clutch being new, will the pedal be on the higher end, or on the lower end? Thanks :)
Hello and thanks for the vid. Will the cylinder work with Silicone fluid instead of brake-fluid DOT 4?
yes. in theory you can use pretty much anything within the clutch system, but i would use DOT4 for ease of fluid ownership etc. within a brake system, you need to use DOT4 as the brakes can boil the fluid due to friction/resistance (not a problem in the clutch system).
Hey guys. Could you do a video with the fitting of the slave cylinder?
Just fitted the master cylinder and it now difficult to select a gear, i am hoping its just needs adjusted , i put the nylock nut on as suggested in video just onto the end of the thread , the pedal is high but i think if i adjust it down more the selecting of the gears will be more difficult. Can you suggest anything.
Gerry
Which one is more effective? Replacing the master or slave cylinder for the power version
So they both have the same outcome, on the TD5 we would suggest the slave + spring as it is easier to change!
Without the help of an assistant or Go-go-gadget arms, does removing the pedal box make the job easier?
Thanks in advance!
Yes its possible to do it this way! But it is not impossible to do it on your own leaving the pedal box in place :)
Does fitting this clutch master cylinder give a much lighter clutch operation, and what is the best slave cylinder to use with this system?
hi there, yes correct it does, slave cylinder use the OEM or similar like TRW/Delphi etc
@@lofclutches4156 You do not recommend your LOF Powerslave cylinder ?
@@453421abcdefg12345 You cannot use the pair together
@@lofclutches4156 I have the power slave and master with power spring and a new lof clutch and I cant get the clutch to lift enough to get it in gear I have bled it till the cows come home what should I do next?
@@andyjota8906 Hi Andy, you cannot fit the POWERslave + POWERmaster together, this will be why, you need to remove one of the power units and keep 1 + the spring!
will you add the link where I can buy it?
LOFclutches.com :)
Bit of a PITA if you can't use it with a new clutch