Changing a Drag Link on a Peterbilt 379
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Today I'll run you through a step by step procedure to changing a drag link on a 379. As far as I know all 379's have the same drag link as long as the truck has a Spicer axle.
Nice job bud I like the way you don't talk for 10 minutes before you even do anything
Repairs for Oats.. Cool video bro. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for watching!
Finally made it to check it out 👍..good job ..taking the time to locate the fittings for the best access , that's the kind of things I have always tried to do..some guys just slap it together and then you can't grease things..Thanks for the video Buddy..
Thanks for watching!
Thank you man. Appreciate your help.
Glad it helped you out
Geez man I hope this your own truck and not customers no offense. You never never never throw any heat at any steering component. You ruined the strength of the steal. If would have wrapped the sides of the pitman arm a few times and then the bolt, it will eventually pop out. Takes time. Secondly you way over torqued the castle nuts and now there’s another dangerous situation you don’t want with 80k behind you. Yes it’s true a 7/8 but takes 300 foot pounds but those castle nuts are to be torqued to a max of 160 foot pounds. It is clear as day in the spicer and meritor manuals. You just sat there with a impact and rapped and rapped and rapped away. I’ll bet they are 3 times over torqued.
Hope you take this as constructive criticism
@shortthrow50 So I'll take it as constructive criticism. I'm curious as to what part of the country you're in because I'm in the northeast where everything is seized from salt and rust. I've always been told to heat those arms if they won't come loose after a couple minutes of sledge hammer work. Matter a fact I've seen a guy bend the arm where the pitman arm hooks into because he didn't use heat. As far as over torquing the castle nut goes I didn't know the torque spec so I'll say thank you for letting me know.
And no safety glasses.