There's nothing wrong with that statement at all and it's also true but out of context that would sound pretty bad. Imagine just overhearing that somewhere!
@@leof8887 In terms of avoiding spoilers, people should know not to begin reading through the comment section before finishing a video considering they are generally commenting on... said video. Lol However, I must say.. I am of the opinion that his comment /could/ be /just/ vague enough to warrant it spoiler-free🤷♂️
On the field: always lock your bike high enough to prevent the lock from being put on the ground, to significantly reduce the possibility of brute force attacks!
@ZaC kWinz Yep, it's a highly specialized skill. Most locks can be easily bypassed by the brute force method thus rendering lockpicking nearly useless in most circumstances that damaging it doesn't matter.
@@Artyomthewalrus It's surprisingly difficult (and dangerous) to angle grind a loose chain while it's hanging freely, not to mention all the attention it would bring.
@@MrFreeGman ....very true. Like it’s not conspicuous enough having an angle grinder, you’d also need Vice-Grips to secure the targeted link. Too much equipment, too awkward..., not worth it.
Small acetylene torch will go through the shackle in about a minute or two. Dremel with fiber reinforced abrasive disks will go through the chain in a few minutes with a few disks. But yeah, those stupid little brown disks...
I'm willing to bet lpl has an Excell spreadsheet with each lock for each video detailing how fast he picked and what bypasses work and whether it was destructive or not
Two non lock picking tips: 1 - eye protection; any of those hardened bits could shatter/splinter (You may goggles have but we can't see) and 2 - hold the chisel with a pair of pliers cause if the lock/chisel gives why catastrophically and you end up whacking the side of your hand with a 3lb lump hammer it hurts - from personal experience it continues to hurt for an astonishing time afterwards.
I really like your analytical way of looking. It's indeed a bit of a shame they didn't put a more pick resistant core in it. Thank you for the great video and all the other videos!
Its too cumbersome, you need to roll up with your cannisters on a sack truck, once the chain is off you cant ride the bike and wheel your gas can away at the same time. That only works if you have your van nearby
I thought a ceramic shell with thermite and some double sided tape to stick it to the top if the lock may work nicely. The right ceramic blend may survive the thermite, and the tape would only need to hold it up long enough to get going before the reaction bites into the lock. An exotic thermite could feasibly melt through the locks main body very quickly, or even just a few links if you can get them separate. Creative delivery is all you need for the thermite approach I feel
@@tylerblubaugh5549 yes, but does it last long enough to get through hardened steel on both sides, probably not.. I like my stuff to be portable but there are drawbacks, less powererd performance or a more expensive shortened duration of big power are typical choices.
I am a security consultant , over three decades locksmith, electronic Security and expert witness based in Chicago. First, LPL, great job - quite impressive overall. Lacking a Standard to compare to or meet, the expression that may apply here to this lock is “secure to a brute force attack to all but the most determined”.
This is why chain placement is important when securing your bike or other method of transport. Let them use the sidewalk as a leverage point and they can defeat some locks much quicker.
Viro is made in Italy, the company is 80 year old. I have a later lock like this (so hopefully with a harder to pick mechanism) which I use with a heavier chain on my Moto Guzzi. When I bought it, I was told the only way to open it was to use explosive. I feel better after seeing this video. As someone said, not many locks survive a trip to the LPL garage....
For everyone suggesting he put steel rods in the hollow of the shackles: the hollow ends right below the weakest point, so there is nothing to be gained from reinforcing that short section. There is no way to create continuity between the top of the shackle and the strong, solid section below. The shackle would still shear at the interface.
Hi Harry, One tough little lock, I guess Viro have learnt over the years what works and what doesn't, especially helping to protect those millions of scooters in Italy. Regards, Brian.
Impressed: would it be possible to insert two pieces of round stock into the holes in the shackle and then use some external force? It would strengthen the shackle, maybe enough to get the steel and brass to break. If you wanted to drill the shackles, a pair of vice grips and a plumbing torch would go a long way (first annealing the steel with the torch) then keeping it from spinning with the vise grips, but I do agree at that point you might as well cut it.
one thing that immediately came to my mind was that you could fill up the drilled out portions of the shackle with some HSS drill rod or something similar so the shackle wouldn't shear off when trying the first levering attack you tried
A cold chisel would be a better choice they are usually harder than a punch as they are designed to cut bolts. Hard against hard is a wild guess which will win
I bought one type 1 cm chain when I was 15 years old (now I'm 51) after my 50cc moto was catch, I paid it a lot but then I did have no more problems, it is really heavy, now I know that by diamond disk or other system it can be easy open but it was really effective in my life.
Two things. 1) If you were going to attempt to drill the pins simply using a set of ViseGrip pliers to stop rotation would more than likely be effective. 2) If you wanted to use the Ramset, placing a 19 mm bolt over the pin before attempting to use the Ramset on the hardened side would allow you clearance, in the event you were successful. Just my 2¢ Great video.
I hack sawed the core out of a BEST brand padlock. Mini hack sawed actually. I sawed a complete radius line all around the lock, and used a hammer and chisel to separate the core from the rest of the body, once the cut was made. I hack sawed a little into the core, i went too far, but the core was complete and still in tact once it was isolated. It did take quite some time and was reasonably loud. Using a hacksaw n hammer. But i learned a lot and advanced my lockpicking skills. I had never heard about a 7 pin lock before, let alone see the inside of it and see how it worx.
Very nicely thought out bike lock, well done. Too bad the core wasn't much of a challenge as it was picked in 30 seconds by the one and only LPL. This lock body with a better core would be really a decent product from what I can see.
Wish I could have been here to make a suggestion. Mine would have been to insert a solid metal rod through the link closest to the lock body and hammer down on that. Second would be to hammer the link into the body itself
A bit late to the party since this was posted 5 years ago but anyway, regarding the grinder attack plan, they can make the chain as large as they want, anybody with a good set of acetylene torches can get through even a 1 foot thick chain link, really love your videos tho and i'm considering buying a set of lockpick just so i can learn a new skill 🥰
The only reason that the second retainer pin broke down at the ball bearing retention radius is because you previously broke the other pin. Somehow if this bike lock were in place, the chain/lock wouldn't have been close enough to the ground for you to be pounding on.
well there is no room for around the frame so my chain goes through the wheel and around some solid object. it's on the ground. oh and a disc lock on the other wheel. some would say that is overkill but the whole point is making it difficult to steal. i don't want somebody to take my beautiful bike
Fantaman900 I place a cable lock around the head tube and through the front wheel and around a light pole or telephone pole. I'm usually no more than a couple hundred feet away from my bike. If you wish to steal, proceed at your own risk. ☠
I agree, if the person locked up their item correctly then the lock wouldn't face out or be placed in a way you could beat on it. At a certain point (depending on neighborhood) just easier to angle grinder the chain off and be out of there in a minute...long before a cop is going to show up...most bystanders might take a picture but they won't intervene. Might not even call the cops, they don't want to get involved. and if a person does say "hey what you doing"? You could just be friendly back and say "fucking lock got stuck and I'm cutting it off my bike". My response to that if a bystander, okay cool later man. I don't have time to deal with someone that should have insurance and just parking it out in the open.
What if you put a hardened steel pin or dowel inside the two holes so you reinforce the "weakened" shackles and then use that lever press you mentioned in the beginning on the shackles?
blargcoster I was about to suggest the same thing and checked to see if anyone else did. Two steel pins would be easily accessable and transported. The shackle wells don't seem to be deep enough, though. I think the shackle would still crack and break off. The best chance with the pins, in my opinion, would be perfectly molded pins with no room in between.
I have this lock, its a secondary lock (the primary lock is a frame lock through the rear wheel, this one is required by my insurance). The Viro lock I use to lock my bike to any object on the street, the lock is then never on the ground, making a brute force attack even more difficult. Although I was surprised how quick you could pick it...
I think the Ramset would work better than you'd think. The impulse from it is so high that the inertia from the lock would hold it in place long enough to deliver a powerful blow. Even if it took a few tries it'd be faster and probably quieter than anything tried here.
What if you reinforced the shackles (to prevent them from breaking at the drilled-out weak points) by inserting small steel rods into each of them before using the angle iron pry bars?
Maybe, but not necessarily. By then the housing had been deformed by the repeated blows, and that may have been a contributing factor to the second shackle breaking. If the rods fit snugly enough and were inserted from the start, they might transfer the force to the other side of the shackle, essentially making it act like it was a solid piece of metal again. Just a theory, though - which I would have liked to see tested. :)
Instead of a punch, I think a cross cut chisel would take it apart fairly easily. 4mm is about as narrow as I've seen, but you can grind one to suit. Cost about $15-30.
at first i was going to say to put a hardened bolt down the hollow shackles to support the thin walls they made.. but then when the 2nd one broke at the thin area for the ball bearing.. that idea flew out the window.
Take a bottle jack and secure one side of the chain to the base then secure the other side of the chain to the top of the ram and start "quietly" jacking up the ram and yank those sneaky shackles outta their home. If you can get one, it'd probably be even easier with one of those small hydraulic cylinders with a small hand pump that kinda looks like a grease gun, but I'm sure the bottle jack is more readily available to theives.
Because of their manufactured weakened points, the bolts might sheer easily from the middle, by applying outward opposing force, from each of the links attached to the shackle bolts.... If the lock body was slightly longer, it would allow for much deeper shoulders on the outermost side of the shackle pins, then a breakaway section wouldn't be needed. You could also spring load the bolts to popup upon unlocking, thus allowing the bolt tops to sit flush into the casing when locked.
I think you need a stunt double when attacking the locks with a hammer - imagine if you hit your hands ? Don't want to damage those lock picking hands.
Weakest part is the brass so just attack it from the side. Drill, chisel or whatever. Do what you did but ignore the steel casing. You can do the bottom and the top. Breaking the shackle tops off might make it easier to move them out of the way after you remove the brass.
You could put steel inserts into the holes in the shackles, so you wouldn’t break them when you try the lever. That is assuming the hole goes down into the lock
the shackles spins and its retained which means there is something holding it in place. maybe if you spin the shackle fast enough and pull outwards it will friction melt itself off. assuming you don't stop before its off of course because then it'll weld itself in place and you'll never get it spinning again.
LPL always talks about (how makers should be) 'putting a more pick resistant core in there' but at the same time he always shows us that such a thing does not actually exist!
I know this video is old but pro tip here. Always hold a punch with vice grips to prevent destroying your hand especially when it's a small punch vs big hammer situation.
Puts me in mind of my Squire SS50C-not that hard to pick but incredibly tough against brute force attack. Given that bike thieves are unlikely to invest much time in learning to pick a lock I'd say you were pretty safe with this lock. But they should still have brought the stainless steel out past the brass body by 1/4" or so.
my first thought to break was melting part of the lock, and being steel, fastest way to melt, or at least first thing i thought of was thermite, and honestly,danger set aside, thermite is really easy to make
The brass would melt right out, leaving the loose steel bits behind, if you used enough thermite to bring that mass of metal to the melting point. Effective attack, but not exactly subtle if you're a bike thief trying to avoid attention,.
The problem I have with this attack method is it relies on the ground as an anvil. Most bike locks are suspended in the air when in use, making a striking attack like this so much more difficult and less effective. I suspect most bike thieves would attack the chain as the weak point with an battery powered angle grinder or even bolt cutters. But as you proved earlier, the core is an easy pick. However, I'm not sure how many bike thieves are picking locks open.
I would give that chain about 10-15sec with my not very new Bosch 18V angle grinder. More like 10sec with the newer brushless one. So yeah, "security level 15" means it takes 15sec to cut :)
I suspect that, with the shackle that snapped at the ball bearing point, you could have used the punch and hammer on the rest of it to work it out. Place the punch through the hole on the inside part of it so that the remaining shackle would be pushed out the other, open side.
Nice one LPL. But you naturally tempered your hammer blows to avoid the consequences of missing and hitting your hand. Hold the punch tightly locked in a pair of Mole vice grips, (the ones designed for round things). Hold it close to the sharp end for a lower centre of gravity. Them belt the fuck out of it. I've used this method for similar jobs and it works. I once designed a slide punch that consisted of a round hardened steel bar twice the diameter of the thing to be punched, with the end turned down to the correct diameter. I drilled a hole the larger diameter in a lump of 2" thick mild steel. The amount of force that could be applied was huge, and every blow was better directed and more efficient. But due to the stability of the whole setup, less force and fewer blows were actually necessary. Plus ALL the danger of injury was eliminated. The irony is, some bastard stole all my best engineering tools, including a large set of uniquely modified Swiss files I'd made! My favourite punches were all of brass aluminium or copper. All are great for shifting stuff without damaging it.
You should have tried hammering out the shackle by hitting the exposed top of it after you weakened the sides of the lock with the punch. The top of the shackle probably would have broken off, but it would have been fun to watch.
Simple. Put a piece of steel down each shackle hole then use a spreader. The drilled out shackles will now be reinforced and it will work as if the shackles were not hollow.
![[295] Iseo Perfecta Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Szbkxjs5WFk/mqdefault.jpg)
![[295] Iseo Perfecta Picked and Gutted](/img/tr.png)
![[503] Dom "System D" Euro Profile Cylinder Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2p6TY2DiViE/mqdefault.jpg)
![[574] Kryptonite Evolution Security Flaw? You Decide.](/img/1.gif)
Impressive design. Not many survive the trip to the garage.
There's nothing wrong with that statement at all and it's also true but out of context that would sound pretty bad. Imagine just overhearing that somewhere!
"And for that reason, I'll let this one go." - David, Toy-Box Killer.
Dude! Spoilers!
@@leof8887 In terms of avoiding spoilers, people should know not to begin reading through the comment section before finishing a video considering they are generally commenting on... said video.
Lol
However, I must say.. I am of the opinion that his comment /could/ be /just/ vague enough to warrant it spoiler-free🤷♂️
Italian designs don't disappoint
"What's that dude doing out by the bike rack with two giant pry bars?" "OH! That's just Jimmy Two-Irons. We don't pay him much mind."
Imagine all those experts standing around your bicycle discussing how to do it, and LPL in the center of them leading the discussion.
*picks it within a minute*
Neighbor hearing loud metal banging noises: there goes that dang ol lawyer picking his locks again
HAHAHA
No, imagine hearing this om the street as a neighbor. Then the guys goes home in the middle of his break in to fix the punch, and he comes back!!
I will now proceed to pick the lock
*gets out a 2m long sledghammer*
On the field: always lock your bike high enough to prevent the lock from being put on the ground, to significantly reduce the possibility of brute force attacks!
Nice to finally see a lock come out on the ... winning side!
Then you might not want to click the link in the description, (video [659] where LPL picks it in under 30 seconds.)
@@recklessroges However, bike thieves who can pick locks are probably almost non-existent.
pickers cant be choosers
@ZaC kWinz
Yep, it's a highly specialized skill. Most locks can be easily bypassed by the brute force method thus rendering lockpicking nearly useless in most circumstances that damaging it doesn't matter.
I'd be less work to get a job and buy a bike than brute force this lock.
or to pick it
the secret ingredient is crime
It'd be less work to steal a battery powered angle grinder from walmart, and cut through the chain
@@Artyomthewalrus It's surprisingly difficult (and dangerous) to angle grind a loose chain while it's hanging freely, not to mention all the attention it would bring.
@@MrFreeGman ....very true. Like it’s not conspicuous enough having an angle grinder, you’d also need Vice-Grips to secure the targeted link. Too much equipment, too awkward..., not worth it.
"Let me get these in the best possible position, and start spreading." - LockPickingLawyer 2018
Best comment 😁
That's good material for the next April fool's episode
This is easy, you just need a Dremel, about 100extra batteries and about 3.6million of those little brown cutting disks :D
Small acetylene torch will go through the shackle in about a minute or two. Dremel with fiber reinforced abrasive disks will go through the chain in a few minutes with a few disks. But yeah, those stupid little brown disks...
Battery powered bandsaw :D.
Battery powered bandsaw... XD that made my day thanks!
Or a tiny dremel mounted diamond cutting disk. I cut through heat treated toolsteel with a single one of them.
I have one of this on my motorbike here in italy, happy to see he was pretty solid
Where in Italy? I want to pick it!!
@@andrewshackleford832 Viro is an Italian brand.
this video reminded me of my dentist appointment on tuesday.
I love going to the dentist! Pain before. Little discomfort in the chair. Now no pain at all!
Your dentist uses steel bars and a hammer?
@@4philipp I don't know why, but I found this reply absolutely hilarious!
I'm willing to bet lpl has an Excell spreadsheet with each lock for each video detailing how fast he picked and what bypasses work and whether it was destructive or not
At over 1500 locks picked or op Ned destructively I’m very sure of this. He’s a very meticulous man.
LPL: "Couple problems there..."
*Palms Sweat*
Two non lock picking tips: 1 - eye protection; any of those hardened bits could shatter/splinter (You may goggles have but we can't see) and 2 - hold the chisel with a pair of pliers cause if the lock/chisel gives why catastrophically and you end up whacking the side of your hand with a 3lb lump hammer it hurts - from personal experience it continues to hurt for an astonishing time afterwards.
From a tension wrench and pick tool, to a punch and hammer. Never a dull moment.
I really like your analytical way of looking. It's indeed a bit of a shame they didn't put a more pick resistant core in it. Thank you for the great video and all the other videos!
I love how the subtitle says (Music) when he is slamming the lock with the hammer and punch.
Ideas for a destructive attack?
Acetylene torch!
Its too cumbersome, you need to roll up with your cannisters on a sack truck, once the chain is off you cant ride the bike and wheel your gas can away at the same time.
That only works if you have your van nearby
That's what I was thinking: Blow Torch
I thought a ceramic shell with thermite and some double sided tape to stick it to the top if the lock may work nicely. The right ceramic blend may survive the thermite, and the tape would only need to hold it up long enough to get going before the reaction bites into the lock. An exotic thermite could feasibly melt through the locks main body very quickly, or even just a few links if you can get them separate. Creative delivery is all you need for the thermite approach I feel
@@JamesPhillipsOfficial you know they make torch sets that would fit in a backpack right?
@@tylerblubaugh5549 yes, but does it last long enough to get through hardened steel on both sides, probably not.. I like my stuff to be portable but there are drawbacks, less powererd performance or a more expensive shortened duration of big power are typical choices.
I am a security consultant , over three decades locksmith, electronic Security and expert witness based in Chicago. First, LPL, great job - quite impressive overall. Lacking a Standard to compare to or meet, the expression that may apply here to this lock is “secure to a brute force attack to all but the most determined”.
That 3lb hammer would not feel good on your knuckles glad you didn't miss
Whoa, be careful. Nearly hit me in the forehead with this hammer @ 9:07
i was thinking similar. that or his camera was about to cop a hammering.
This is why chain placement is important when securing your bike or other method of transport. Let them use the sidewalk as a leverage point and they can defeat some locks much quicker.
Viro is made in Italy, the company is 80 year old. I have a later lock like this (so hopefully with a harder to pick mechanism) which I use with a heavier chain on my Moto Guzzi. When I bought it, I was told the only way to open it was to use explosive.
I feel better after seeing this video. As someone said, not many locks survive a trip to the LPL garage....
Happy to ear someone saying "Blocca Catena" right ❤
Definitely a well executed design on this lock. Great review brother. Thanks for sharing it with us!
What a tough lock. Always a pleasure to watch you LPL. Have a good evening.
For everyone suggesting he put steel rods in the hollow of the shackles: the hollow ends right below the weakest point, so there is nothing to be gained from reinforcing that short section. There is no way to create continuity between the top of the shackle and the strong, solid section below. The shackle would still shear at the interface.
As a locksmith I both and dislike that this very informative video is available on RUclips
Hi Harry, One tough little lock, I guess Viro have learnt over the years what works and what doesn't, especially helping to protect those millions of scooters in Italy. Regards, Brian.
A lock resisting LPL thats majesty-insulting.
I am shocked. :-)
Impressed: would it be possible to insert two pieces of round stock into the holes in the shackle and then use some external force? It would strengthen the shackle, maybe enough to get the steel and brass to break. If you wanted to drill the shackles, a pair of vice grips and a plumbing torch would go a long way (first annealing the steel with the torch) then keeping it from spinning with the vise grips, but I do agree at that point you might as well cut it.
one thing that immediately came to my mind was that you could fill up the drilled out portions of the shackle with some HSS drill rod or something similar so the shackle wouldn't shear off when trying the first levering attack you tried
A cold chisel would be a better choice they are usually harder than a punch as they are designed to cut bolts.
Hard against hard is a wild guess which will win
Scott Johnson definitely. Got to hit that thing like a savage too.
You mean hit it like you'd hit your mother in law.
that punch also wasn't very hard
Appeared to be a "nailset" not an actual "punch".
Nice to see a lock that gets the lpl seal of approval
Thanks for the awesome video. I like these longer style videos.
I bought one type 1 cm chain when I was 15 years old (now I'm 51) after my 50cc moto was catch, I paid it a lot but then I did have no more problems, it is really heavy, now I know that by diamond disk or other system it can be easy open but it was really effective in my life.
In Italy not getting things stolen has always been a problem... I'm happy to see at least the countermeasures are up for the challenge...
Two things. 1) If you were going to attempt to drill the pins simply using a set of ViseGrip pliers to stop rotation would more than likely be effective. 2) If you wanted to use the Ramset, placing a 19 mm bolt over the pin before attempting to use the Ramset on the hardened side would allow you clearance, in the event you were successful. Just my 2¢ Great video.
I hack sawed the core out of a BEST brand padlock. Mini hack sawed actually. I sawed a complete radius line all around the lock, and used a hammer and chisel to separate the core from the rest of the body, once the cut was made. I hack sawed a little into the core, i went too far, but the core was complete and still in tact once it was isolated.
It did take quite some time and was reasonably loud. Using a hacksaw n hammer. But i learned a lot and advanced my lockpicking skills. I had never heard about a 7 pin lock before, let alone see the inside of it and see how it worx.
Thumbs up to Viro and to LPL.
Very nicely thought out bike lock, well done. Too bad the core wasn't much of a challenge as it was picked in 30 seconds by the one and only LPL. This lock body with a better core would be really a decent product from what I can see.
Cost of Viro bike lock just skyrocketed. Thanks LPL!
Wish I could have been here to make a suggestion. Mine would have been to insert a solid metal rod through the link closest to the lock body and hammer down on that.
Second would be to hammer the link into the body itself
Skookum as frig!!!!!
Let down by a core that's pish easy to pick :/
John Beauvais Le treat especial!
I could brake this lock one handed in the dark alone with some wiener schleiden.
Had to engage my safety squints on every backswing of that hammer.
Had to look SKOOKUM up.SJ London England.
This lock makes me proud of being italian, we really know how to make the LPL struggle.
Ah the Blocca, Blocca Catena
A Viro lock you've never seen-a
I kept thinking he was going to hit the camera on the back swing.
A bit late to the party since this was posted 5 years ago but anyway, regarding the grinder attack plan, they can make the chain as large as they want, anybody with a good set of acetylene torches can get through even a 1 foot thick chain link, really love your videos tho and i'm considering buying a set of lockpick just so i can learn a new skill 🥰
Same design with 10mm hardened steel chains and shackles and that pick Resistant Core sounds great! Hope they update the design
The only reason that the second retainer pin broke down at the ball bearing retention radius is because you previously broke the other pin.
Somehow if this bike lock were in place, the chain/lock wouldn't have been close enough to the ground for you to be pounding on.
i also think it's unrealistic to attack the bike like in such a manner in real world situations
well there is no room for around the frame so my chain goes through the wheel and around some solid object. it's on the ground. oh and a disc lock on the other wheel. some would say that is overkill but the whole point is making it difficult to steal. i don't want somebody to take my beautiful bike
Fantaman900
I place a cable lock around the head tube and through the front wheel and around a light pole or telephone pole.
I'm usually no more than a couple hundred feet away from my bike.
If you wish to steal, proceed at your own risk. ☠
I agree, if the person locked up their item correctly then the lock wouldn't face out or be placed in a way you could beat on it. At a certain point (depending on neighborhood) just easier to angle grinder the chain off and be out of there in a minute...long before a cop is going to show up...most bystanders might take a picture but they won't intervene. Might not even call the cops, they don't want to get involved. and if a person does say "hey what you doing"? You could just be friendly back and say "fucking lock got stuck and I'm cutting it off my bike". My response to that if a bystander, okay cool later man. I don't have time to deal with someone that should have insurance and just parking it out in the open.
Looks like a good motorbike look. thefts will just cut the chain with a battery grinder.
What if you put a hardened steel pin or dowel inside the two holes so you reinforce the "weakened" shackles and then use that lever press you mentioned in the beginning on the shackles?
blargcoster I was about to suggest the same thing and checked to see if anyone else did. Two steel pins would be easily accessable and transported. The shackle wells don't seem to be deep enough, though. I think the shackle would still crack and break off. The best chance with the pins, in my opinion, would be perfectly molded pins with no room in between.
It will not work. The pin handles are hollowed and then the pin itself is weakened to break off under applied side pressure. It is shown in the video.
@@Frank-Thoresen I dont think you understood what he is saying
and why was the chain off limits? that is the only chain that works on that lock the two ends being the hasp.
@@hypernovie he knows the chain can be cut through very easily and quickly with an angle grinder
I have this lock, its a secondary lock (the primary lock is a frame lock through the rear wheel, this one is required by my insurance). The Viro lock I use to lock my bike to any object on the street, the lock is then never on the ground, making a brute force attack even more difficult. Although I was surprised how quick you could pick it...
Vero just got the best possible promotion - for free!
What about filling in the drilled out recess with a hardened steel rod and push them outward
A lock worthy of a "Part 2".
I think the Ramset would work better than you'd think. The impulse from it is so high that the inertia from the lock would hold it in place long enough to deliver a powerful blow. Even if it took a few tries it'd be faster and probably quieter than anything tried here.
What if you reinforced the shackles (to prevent them from breaking at the drilled-out weak points) by inserting small steel rods into each of them before using the angle iron pry bars?
The shackles will still break off, as the second one did in this test.
Maybe, but not necessarily. By then the housing had been deformed by the repeated blows, and that may have been a contributing factor to the second shackle breaking. If the rods fit snugly enough and were inserted from the start, they might transfer the force to the other side of the shackle, essentially making it act like it was a solid piece of metal again. Just a theory, though - which I would have liked to see tested. :)
@@Viigan It's still going to break where the ball bearing sits though.
Instead of a punch, I think a cross cut chisel would take it apart fairly easily. 4mm is about as narrow as I've seen, but you can grind one to suit. Cost about $15-30.
at first i was going to say to put a hardened bolt down the hollow shackles to support the thin walls they made.. but then when the 2nd one broke at the thin area for the ball bearing.. that idea flew out the window.
Take a bottle jack and secure one side of the chain to the base then secure the other side of the chain to the top of the ram and start "quietly" jacking up the ram and yank those sneaky shackles outta their home. If you can get one, it'd probably be even easier with one of those small hydraulic cylinders with a small hand pump that kinda looks like a grease gun, but I'm sure the bottle jack is more readily available to theives.
a bold cutter does the job faster and quieter. esp. if you get one equally the size of your jack.
Because of their manufactured weakened points, the bolts might sheer easily from the middle, by applying outward opposing force, from each of the links attached to the shackle bolts....
If the lock body was slightly longer, it would allow for much deeper shoulders on the outermost side of the shackle pins, then a breakaway section wouldn't be needed. You could also spring load the bolts to popup upon unlocking, thus allowing the bolt tops to sit flush into the casing when locked.
I think you need a stunt double when attacking the locks with a hammer - imagine if you hit your hands ? Don't want to damage those lock picking hands.
Weakest part is the brass so just attack it from the side. Drill, chisel or whatever. Do what you did but ignore the steel casing. You can do the bottom and the top. Breaking the shackle tops off might make it easier to move them out of the way after you remove the brass.
Specially designed punch. Lol. That's a nail sinker
tbh part where you were trying to open lock looked like a classic example of big boy with big toys c:
You could put steel inserts into the holes in the shackles, so you wouldn’t break them when you try the lever. That is assuming the hole goes down into the lock
Can you do one of those keypad locks that realtors use on houses they're selling? I always thought those were interesting.
He has
the shackles spins and its retained which means there is something holding it in place.
maybe if you spin the shackle fast enough and pull outwards it will friction melt itself off.
assuming you don't stop before its off of course because then it'll weld itself in place and you'll never get it spinning again.
Do you think a hardened steel ball retaining it won't spin?
My first thought on any of these brute force attack vids is creative use of thermite haha
What a great lock!
LPL always talks about (how makers should be) 'putting a more pick resistant core in there' but at the same time he always shows us that such a thing does not actually exist!
The song by Gloria Gayor is playing in my head now... "I Will Survive".
Douchebag😕
How about a 5 kilo ton Nuclear Warhead?
Pfsif The bike would probably get scratched.
Two problems with that
I see that as just as likely to irradiate the steel as to open the locking mechanism.
I mean, the 9 Megaton b53 was only retired from USAF in 1997 so a quick restoration and you're good to go 😂
It might wake up the police at the nearby towns. Or the Neighborhood Watch.
When I was a kid, this was the most common bike lock in Italy.
I know this video is old but pro tip here. Always hold a punch with vice grips to prevent destroying your hand especially when it's a small punch vs big hammer situation.
Hit it like you mean it!!!
Puts me in mind of my Squire SS50C-not that hard to pick but incredibly tough against brute force attack. Given that bike thieves are unlikely to invest much time in learning to pick a lock I'd say you were pretty safe with this lock. But they should still have brought the stainless steel out past the brass body by 1/4" or so.
Ramset suggest @ chain entry port on area to damage bearing contact. Assuming chain entry provides sufficient space.
my first thought to break was melting part of the lock, and being steel, fastest way to melt, or at least first thing i thought of was thermite, and honestly,danger set aside, thermite is really easy to make
The brass would melt right out, leaving the loose steel bits behind, if you used enough thermite to bring that mass of metal to the melting point. Effective attack, but not exactly subtle if you're a bike thief trying to avoid attention,.
Brutality. Great lock.
I would try a proper center punch with some real meat on it, that nail set has a profile more in line with finish carpentry than bike theft
You could use a magnet to stand up the punch while swinging at it and holding the lock body with your other hand.
I love how he got a second, uglier one to destroy so he didn't have to ruin his shiny new one!
If we're only speaking academically, I humbly suggest using a couple .308 black tip Lapua Magnum rounds on it... Should clear the problem right up.
Italian quality at its finest.
Went to push like and discovered I'd already pushed like. Probably when the tools came out.
Really enjoyed the video 👍
The problem I have with this attack method is it relies on the ground as an anvil. Most bike locks are suspended in the air when in use, making a striking attack like this so much more difficult and less effective. I suspect most bike thieves would attack the chain as the weak point with an battery powered angle grinder or even bolt cutters. But as you proved earlier, the core is an easy pick. However, I'm not sure how many bike thieves are picking locks open.
I actually have this lock. Was wondering g about it’s pick resistance and now I know.
I would give that chain about 10-15sec with my not very new Bosch 18V angle grinder. More like 10sec with the newer brushless one.
So yeah, "security level 15" means it takes 15sec to cut :)
I suspect that, with the shackle that snapped at the ball bearing point, you could have used the punch and hammer on the rest of it to work it out. Place the punch through the hole on the inside part of it so that the remaining shackle would be pushed out the other, open side.
Use the spreader technique, but insert some tight fitting rods or bolts into the holes.
Getting into this lock is simple by applying the Alohomora charm.
Nice one LPL. But you naturally tempered your hammer blows to avoid the consequences of missing and hitting your hand. Hold the punch tightly locked in a pair of Mole vice grips, (the ones designed for round things). Hold it close to the sharp end for a lower centre of gravity. Them belt the fuck out of it. I've used this method for similar jobs and it works.
I once designed a slide punch that consisted of a round hardened steel bar twice the diameter of the thing to be punched, with the end turned down to the correct diameter. I drilled a hole the larger diameter in a lump of 2" thick mild steel. The amount of force that could be applied was huge, and every blow was better directed and more efficient. But due to the stability of the whole setup, less force and fewer blows were actually necessary. Plus ALL the danger of injury was eliminated.
The irony is, some bastard stole all my best engineering tools, including a large set of uniquely modified Swiss files I'd made! My favourite punches were all of brass aluminium or copper. All are great for shifting stuff without damaging it.
You should have tried hammering out the shackle by hitting the exposed top of it after you weakened the sides of the lock with the punch. The top of the shackle probably would have broken off, but it would have been fun to watch.
What a beast of a lock!
Simple. Put a piece of steel down each shackle hole then use a spreader. The drilled out shackles will now be reinforced and it will work as if the shackles were not hollow.
The problem with this attack, is that it is taking a very long time. The Ram Set, and punch the top of the pins so it drives them down into the lock.
Insert steelpipes in the shackle tops. Then bend them out