Drip Irrigation Tip - Emitter Placement
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- A method for installing emitters in drip tubing.
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The reason why this isn’t a good idea is because as your plants grow they require a different amount of water. I’m not digging to replace an emitter. It’s easier to replace an emitter on the end of it goes missing. 30 years of doing this.
I like the idea of installing the dripper midway (or near the plant end) on the spaghetti line. If i want to adjust the flow by changing the emitter later, I don't have to dig up the 1/2" poly line to do so. This assumes the line is buried, which they are in my yard.
My gardener did this and I could not figure out why he would do that. Thanks for the tip!
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback!
I am also a fan of installing them at pipe level, as CaCo3 doesn't seem to clog them up as quick via the tube (probably due to less evaporation in the longer tube). Thanks for the video.
Wow. I’m headed outside to change all mine. Thanks !!
Thank you for showing how to wiggle the tubing on. I was having a heck of a time with getting them on.
Oh man, and if you run them through pots you can easily pull them out this way. Excellent way to do this.
Nice... wondered why some people used this option. Totally makes sense now. Thanks bud!
Jeffrey...Brilliant! Simple tip but so smart. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent...I have to do this and your video was so good. Thanks for it.
If you ever need to replace an emitter because of clogging or different water requirements it is very difficult to access the emitter. (Assuming drip tube is installed under weed barrier)
Ryan Stutzman and
This is true, but a consideration of risk vs reward before hand.
what is the logic though, how is it any easier to access by NOT using this method?
Salute Son 👌🏼u said it show it all . N u killed it with that smile in end lol
I've had systems both ways. The way you recommend is truly a PIA when you need to change the flow to a plant that is bigger (needing more water), or change the plant to something else that needs less water (eg, changing a broad leaf plant to a succulent). To do this, you have to dig up the entire dang line to find the main tube and emitters. I'm in a situation where I'm having to pay someone to dig up an entire side of my yard to deal with flow issues, and it's because of it being installed the way you recommend. NEVER AGAIN.
I'm coming up on year 30 of installing and maintaining both commercial and residential landscapes and this is not the best way to install a 1/4" drip line. Its better to install your 1/4" barbed coupler into the main line, then run your 1/4" drip tubing almost to the plant and installing your button emitter inline about a foot before in gets to the plant your trying to water. I've gone on thousands of service calls over the years where you are trying to replace or clean out an emitter that has been saddled on to the 1/2 main line in which case your only option is to track the 1/4" tubing back to the main and punch in a new emitter adjacent to the blocked one. Sometimes you are even forced to pull the old one and replace it with a goof plug or worse install a 1/2" coupler inline on the 1/2" main to repair the hole where the emitter came out of and then install another emitter next to it. Only reason I can figure they recommend doing it this way is to sell more parts.
Thanks for watching and for the comment Don. Jeffrey's choice in emitter placement is to prevent wasted water as a result of the emitter being severed from the tubing. Your point is well taken though. If the installation requires the 1/2 inch supply line to be buried (as opposed to just being covered by mulch for example), then installing the emitter at the end of the 1/4 inch line may be the best option for future maintenance purposes.
How do you figure it is to sell more products? You are elminating the need for a 1/4" barb adapter to the 1/2" mainline with just using the emitter as both the adapter and emitter.
@DirtygardenCA A couple of points. 1st Sooner or later that emitter is going to plug up. It might be tomorrow, next week, next month or next year or 5 years but sooner or later it's going to fail. Here in Arizona we have alot of hard water so I typically see hard water deposits clog up the emitter. It's much easier cutting out or removing the emitter out close to the plant than to need to pull up the whole run of spagetti all the way back to the main just to remove the emitter that was saddled on the line. Your most of the time talking about a 5 minute repair versus a half an hour or even an hour long repair just because some cheap lazy contractor wanted to save 15 cents! Also 2nd point when you use a barb on the coming off of the main your still at full pressure so I normally don't see blockages at the barb but at the emitter where the pressure is regulated down and not able to push out the obstruction.
Awesome way to control the water when tubing blows.. Which Ewing Irrigation was in Vegas
Learned from experience: Never try to insert goof plugs or emitters in hot tubing! The main tubing must be cool to the touch so that the emitter or goof plug POPS IN, else with a hot tubing, the attempt usually fails because the tubing just bends/flattens during your insertion attempt and you will usually end up with a leak.
Good tip, thanks for the comment!
I insert the plugs while the line is on, sometimes I get some refreshing water on me, but most of the time none.
indeed that is a better way Thanks
I could be wrong but I always thought if you Connect the emitter directly to the tube it compromises the flow for the rest of the emitters if you are using different flow rate emitters....If I’m wrong that’s def a great tip.
Hello John, Sorry for the late reply. Connecting the emitter directly to the tubing would be no different from using a 1/4 inch barbed connector. Thanks for the comment!
I ❤ it! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for watching!
I did exactly like this. Makes sense.
If you have the regular buried, you dont know what the rating is unless you dig it up
thank you
You're welcome!
Awesome advice man.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Loved your trick....thx for the video!!!
Thanks for watching!
the button broke inside my house and it just sprays water everywhere. I can't get the button out or replace it?
I’ve found that this is only good when you have one dripper. I did this with my 38“ tall raised garden bed which has two rows of irrigation. If the two 1/4“ tubes are not dead level with each other, water will only come out of the lowest tube.
sounds like you don't have enough water pressure?
@@greeksurferdude 80 psi coming from the bib reduced using 25psi adapter. It’s a short 5 foot run too
You are correct. If you put the drip emitter first, then split the 1/4 tubing it will only come out of the lowest tube. In this case, you would have to either not split the 1/4 inch or put 2 emitters at the ends of the 1/4 inch tubes
Once you run the mainline is it recommended to punch the hole on the top or on the side for the installation of the emitter? What about when installing a barbed connector?
It would depend on the direction you want to run your tubing. Either way is fine.
Always wondered which direction to install the emitter, colored side towards the supply or the black side. Agrifim makes no mention of this. Both sides have barbs.
Hi Jeffrey great video quick question. Let's say i install a 1 gallon emitter directly to the 1/2 inch mainline as you mentioned. What's the maximum length you would recommend running the 1/4 inch line from the emitter to the plant.
You will want to keep it as short as possible. When you plug the emitter into the 1/2" supply tubing you have reduced the pressure and regulated the flow to 1 GPH. We would recommend that you not exceed 3' between the emitter and outlet of the 1/4" tubing. Thanks for the question!
I have 1/2" drip line running around the base of my hydrangea plants. I have a planter about 6 feet away that's 30" off the ground I'd like to add to the same zone as the hydrangeas. Is it possible to insert an emitter into one of the drip holes on the 1/2 drip line then run 1/4 pipe to and up into the planter with another emitter on the end to water my planter? New subscriber 🖐💥🇺🇲
Hello Shane. Yes, you can use a point source emitter on dripline as long as you do not exceed the flow capability of the dripline. You would not insert the emitter into an existing hole in the drip line though; there's an emitter inside. You would punch into the line between the existing emitters. Thanks for watching!
@@ewingoutdoorsupply Oh wow, good to know! I would've done that too 😂
Epic, thanks!!
You bet! Thanks for watching!
Neat trick! Bet it also prevents the 1/4" tubing from walking as much too. Wouldn't the exposed 1/4" tubing be more likely to clog though?
Thanks for watching! Most debris will wash out when the irrigation cycle runs but you are correct. One way to protect the tubing from intrusion of insects and debris is to use a bug cap like this one: www.ewingirrigation.com/l-p-bug-cap-for-1-4-tubing.
I put emitters like 6 inches apart . I hope this is not bad . I did like 10 emitters like this . Than the rest was like 1 foot apart
It would depend on the GPH output and the water requirement for the plant material. If you see our plants are getting too much water you can remove a few and use goof plugs to seal the holes. Thanks for watching!
Quick question. Can you hook up your emitters and quarter inch tubing straight off of garden hoses without any issues?Reason being is I have a bunch of garden hoses that are just sitting in storage and I’d rather put them to use than going out and buying half inch tubing.
We would not recommend using a garden hose as you've described. The thickness of the material used in garden hoses can vary while poly is consistent. The barbed connectors may fail if used on a hose. You can however use a compression hose swivel to connect 1/2 poly to your hose end if you have some distance between the water source and the area you want to irrigate:
www.ewingirrigation.com/products/drip-irrigation/drip-irrigation-fittings/compression/710chs-comp-hose-swivel
Thanks for watching and for the question!
Thank you for the video! Very helpful, open my mind. if i use the method you recommended, can i not to use a bug cap? 1/4 inch tubing openning seems pretty wide comparing the emitter outlet. if i use the method you less recommended, i don't need to buy a bug cap, but i need to buy barb connector, which is cheaper than bug cap. thanks.
Yes, using a bug cap is recommended when connecting the emitter directly to the 1/2" tubing. Keep in mind that if your 1/2" tubing will be buried (rather than exposed or just covered with mulch) you might want to consider the option of having the emitter at the end of the 1/4" tubing. This will make it easier to replace should it fail.
@@ewingoutdoorsupply Thanks!
If the emitter is in the main, can multiple inline emitters still be used? Or, would that yield too little water?
"Inline emitters" typically refers to dripline tubing where the emitters are inserted directly into the inside of the tubing during the extrusion process. With drip tubing, as demonstrated in this video, you can use multiple "point source" emitters; as many as needed as long as the total GPH output for all of the emitters does not exceed the GPH capacity of the tubing for the zone. This guide from the City of Corona, CA might help explain:
www.google.com/url?client=internal-element-cse&cx=014272426406783312333:cz-axzl6idg&q=www.coronaca.gov/home/showdocument%3Fid%3D2132&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjh6ZOysvLpAhV3HjQIHSe5ASYQFjAAegQIABAB&usg=AOvVaw07gOXKIPMrVQRNEfFMsF1f
Thanks for the question!
Hey thanks for the concise demo.i need a recommenration for gravity low pressure drip irrigation that can continue for days/weeks as long as there is water in the elevated reservoir, please
+shayne caesar - Thanks for the question! Unfortunately, without knowing more about your system it's difficult to give you an accurate answer. The first thing you will need to determine is the pressure you have available. The elevation of the reservoir will have an affect on this. You also need to know the minimum operating pressure of your emission devices. If you'd like more assistance, contact your local Ewing branch. Here's a link to our branch locator: www.ewingirrigation.com/locations
is all drip emitters suppose to all drip at the same time? Because if one drop before the other, the one dripping first would get more water. How do I fix or what do I need to add to make sure all of them drip the same time. My water source is from an artesian well with hose Bibb connected with a pressure regular 25 psi. Emitters are pressure compensated 2gph.
Helpful vid! I came here out of confusion, Jeff... The dripper/emitter: not sure if i have it backwards or what. The sharper side of the dripper should NOT be exposed??? I originally installed like you did in the later of the vid, but wasnt really getting any water in my 'sit the end of the tube in a glass cup overnight' test. Yesterday, I have re-installed in the less-safer way, but I believe I have the drippers backwards at the end of my tubes. Its actually not dripping but flowing at a high pressure. Im getting kind of frustrated. Thanks!
Hi MrAlex - Just about every manufacturer has configured their drip emitters to be installed with the sharp end always pushing into tubing. The flow direction would travel through the sharp end through the barbed end. If there is too much water coming out of the distribution tubing it could be a high flow rate emitter or an emitter that is not restricting flow. Thanks for reaching out!
Thanks! But took the (correct) and adjusted all my droppers correctly the next day after I sent u you message. And later when the time came for the automatic turn on, I verified they all dripped. Now I think I need to upgrade most of my 1 GPH drippers... and replace plants
Makes Sense.
How do you pigtail off and irrigation if you have any tips I need to run another pump there’s not enough pressure I have 3 acres going down with sod
Thx for the tip
You bet! Thanks for watching!
How to you know which end of the conneter do you. Put in the tubbing
One end has a sharper tip than the other. That’s the end that you would insert into the tubing. Thanks for watching!
I think that in this case we have a restriction on the length of the thin tube
Another quick question in this video how would you split the 1/4 inch line to be able to install two emitters in the fashion that you presented.
You would use a tee like this:
store.ewingirrigation.com/barbed-tee-for-1-4-inch-tubing
Thanks for watching!
@@ewingoutdoorsupply Thank you quick follow up question. Your suggestion is to install the drip emitter to the half inch mainline and then run the 1/4 inch line to the plant, that is clear. To accomplish splitting I assume you would run the 1/4 tubing straight into the half inch mainline, split it with the T and some further point, attach a little piece of 1/4 tubing to each side of the T, install the emitter to it, then 1/4 tubing after the emitter, correct? So basically 1/4 inch tubing, T splitter, 1/4 inch tubing on each side, emitter, 1/4 inch tubing.
@@JoseLopez-wx1xi yes, that's correct!
i don't think i've ever had a drip head come off. Down where it meets the pipe - ALL THE TIME. SomeONE needS to figure out a better way besides the punching of holes in the feeder pipe. It's good for one punch only, usually leaks within the year as a result of soil shift, animals, etc. and then you gotta cut the pipe and piece it together because you have a hole in your pipe. tHE DESIGN SUCKS AND I'M SICK OF DIGGING UP MY YARD CUZ OF THE DAMN SPRINKLERS!!
Run PVC instead of the 1/2 black supply line shown in this video
Gj telling people how to use the product incorrectly. Now repair is a pain and leaks frequent ... But i guess it keeps you in business.
Is that 1/2 inch (0.70 or 0.71) black poly tubing any good? Meaning will it last a long time if I bury it 4 inch under ground (I live in the desert so very little chance of freezing) -or- should I just run PVC as main lines??
PVC will last you longer but will be considerably more expensive than poly. .710 poly currently runs about $18-20 per 100 feet where 1/2" SCH40 PVC is around $85 per 100 feet. I put down poly in the desert under decorative rock 6 years ago and haven't had any issues yet. That said, the poly I replaced was 20+ years old and needed repairs a few times a year. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question!
i have saltwater what is the best irrigation system for me and thanks
Ya but, if you're emitter gets clogged with debris or calcium in the mirrors at the pipe you got to dig down find the emitter and replace it. That's been my objection to putting them better into the pipe. Basically you got to trace the spaghetti pipe all the way back to the main pipe not my deal
Agreed. Gotta pick your poison.
I just installed my first system on my own and I'm having flow issues in certain areas of my system.
Is it ok to use a soaker hose with a drip irrigation system? Or will the soaker hose cause the line to lose pressure and need to be on its own separate line.
Hello Adam and congrats on your first system! Unfortunately, your question is difficult to answer because we don't have enough information to go on. You would need to calculate the total GPH from all emission devices you have in that zone, including the soaker hose, to see if it exceeds the capacity of that zone. You may need to add an additional zone to separate the soaker hose from other emission devices you may be using. This video may help explain. While the content is specific to sprinkler systems, the concept applies to drip irrigation as well.
ruclips.net/video/Qbjn6KvZKjo/видео.html
Well, how do I know which emitter to use on which tree or plant. I have all of mine gushing like the one you cut off just cause I don't know if they are getting enough water. Obviously my water bill is crazy and the city is not liking my too much....they are charging me a penalty for not conserving. Help!
Hi Susan, The answer to the question of which emitter to use and how many depends mostly on the plant and soil type you are dealing with. Generally you want to irrigate to a depth of 1ft. for small plants and flowers, 2ft. for medium size plants and shrubs and 3 feet for larger plants like trees. Also note that different types of soil have different infiltration rates. For example, a clay rich soil will take longer to absorb water vs a sandy soil. If you are dealing with clay, you would use a lower GPH emitter and longer cycle run times to prevent run-off. It's also a good idea to break the run times up into multiple cycles with some soaking time in between. This will give the water time to soak down to the depth the plant needs rather than running off or being evaporated.
See this video:
ruclips.net/video/un33Qa5_L0o/видео.html
To check your watering depth you can use a soil probe like this one:
www.ewingirrigation.com/products/tools-accessories/tools-long-handle/tools-soil-probes/ewing-48-in-soil-probe-fibergl
This guide from the "Water use It Wisely" campaign in Arizona has some information that you might find useful:
wateruseitwisely.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Landscape-Watering-Guide.pdf
Thanks for watching!
Sounds like you don't have anything on your "spaghetti" (1/4 inch) line! Throw some emitters on ASAP. Too much water will kill your plants. Tip: add mulch around the plants. That will keep the soil moist and help you water less.
Hi,
I'm interested in installing an irrigation system in an orchard using 16mm tubing. What would be the maximum length of one line? The spacing between the emitters is 100 cm and the pressure of the source is 2 bar.
That's what wikihow says: "A typical drip tube can reach a maximum length of 200 ft (60 m), or 400 ft (120 m) if the water enters the line at its center". Thanks!
Costin - Oklahoma State University has some information that might help you:
okcca.okstate.edu/cca-exam-study-resource/soilwater-cca-exam-documents/first-section-links/BAE-1511-Drip-Irrigation.pdf
Thanks for watching!
That's fantastic, thanks!
So, pardon my thick skull, but will the emitter at the 1/2 inch hose ALSO drip? 'Cuz I kinda like that idea, if so. Thanks in advance for your answer.
+paineite - Sorry for the late reply! There is only one emitter used in both examples. The difference is the placement of the emitter. You can install it directly into the 1/2 inch (or .710) lateral line or at the end of the 1/4 inch distribution tubing. Both examples will apply the same amount of water to the plant. Thanks for the question!
+Ewing Irrigation Did you watch the video? Actually in the SECOND example he puts an emitter into the 1/2 then attaches 1/4 tube to it and runs it out to an emitter. Two emitters on one line. Now ... review my question above. Perhaps it will make more sense. Thanks.
+paineite - Yes, I was involved in the production of the video. I can see how it may look that way but there is no emitter at the end of the of the 1/4 inch tubing in the example where the emitter is installed directly into the 1/2 inch tubing (see his right hand at 1:40 into the video). At the end of the video where he cuts of the ends off both 1/4 inch lines (1:48) you'll see that one has no emitter and one has an emitter. The one that does not have water coming out is the one where the emitter is installed at the 1/2 inch tubing. Hope this helps!
+Ewing Irrigation ohh ... ok. I think I finally "get" you. No emitter on the end of the 1/4 line that has an emitter at the 1/2 inch side. THAT makes sense. Thank you for your time to get me straightened out. :)
The geyser is no big deal. I'm more concerned with having to dig up the half inch pipe just to fix a clogged emitter.
I would not call it digging.
MaDe In ISRAEL☆
ALSO LESS PARTS!
not if you have to add a bug guard on the end of the 1/4 inch tubing.