You're back! Great work John - I follow your videos and bought your previous books. My first dovetail joints I learned from your videos. Thank you for posting these videos, they help tremendously.
Your accuracy with the saw cuts is really impressive, I always have to cut mine slightly larger than they need to be, then pare them down to the final size - it gives you a lot more room for error but also takes longer to mark / cut.
Lewis Mealing I just started cutting away from the knife wall, and using a double bevel Japanese knife, then paring sneaking up on the fit much better results. My previous joints were too loose, so I must have been cutting into the wall, just enough to mess it up
Love to watch you work, very skilled. No guide, jig, freehand and a perfect fit. Oh, by the way, I bought your book and I love it. More videos, please!
Just doing my usual thing of watching joinery vids on youtube and thought that book looked familiar. Turns out i ordered it last week and it's due for delivery tomorrow. Can't wait, looks good.
A bench with what I conclude would be dovetails on all four corners and the carcass you're putting the dryer into houndstooth dovetails for the carcass, well done lad very well done. I just finished my latest bench and I elected to be certified fully insane by putting houndstooth dovetails around all four corners of a full-size bench something that if I choose to do it again the recipient of the bench will pay dearly
For some reason out of all the videos I've watched on half blind dovetails I haven't seen the use of a backing board. Maybe I just didn't notice they all used one. Well, just came in from the shop where I am cutting my first half blind dovetails on a real project using poplar and cherry. I broke out the back of the cherry! Very frustrating as I spent a long time getting that drawer front just so and it is one of a matched pair. I didn't use or need a backing board for all my poplar practice joints. I assume that is because the poplar is soft enough that the chisel easily pared it down. Woodworking can be so frustrating!
The Gramercy dovetail saw is brilliant for fine delicate work, but it's a bit of a luxury. You need something more robust like a Lie Nielsen Independence for routine joints.
Thank you so much for the great video, definitely de-mystified the whole process, I will have to give this a try :) besides I have a new set of Japanese pull saws coming next week, and I just know they are going to need a workout :)
Dear John Bullar, my name is Angel Morales from Mexico City. I'm grateful with this tutorial, your performance was excellent and did help me to fix my few experience about dovetail joints. How can I get your new book? Warmest regards!
Thank you for your video!!, I just purchased your book. Please give me the brand name of all of these tools you are using (so I can follow exactly what you are doing on the video and book) and a suggestion for a good wood working bench., Thank you David
Hi David, We made this video last year so I don't completely remember but the main items were: Titemark marking gauge, Lie Nielsen based on Stanley 750 Bevel Edge Socket Chisels, Gramercy Dovetail saw, shop-made Carver's Mallet, shop-made bench with Record vices. Enjoy the book!
Hi John, some years ago you did an article (I think it was Router Magazine) for a Butler Sink cupboard made with. I appear to have lost the magazine and I plan to re-design and build a new kitchen in Spring, the above as a main feature.Could you possibly inform me what magazine it was and possibly the issue, or if you have a plan that would be great.I purchased Cabinetmaking A Foundation Course hoping it could possibly be included in the bookThanksStuart
+Stuart Grierson Hi Stuart, that was a long time ago. I will have a look for you but I've been writing for several publishers over twenty years and I don't have many of the older articles. A butler sink full of water is extremely heavy so I suggest you could build a frame with a rigid vertical support down to the ground beneath each corner. Fixed a panel on the back and each side for bracing. The rest can be like any other kitchen cabinet. Regards John.
I have tried many times to make dovetails with very limited success; they do not fit snuggly together and they are out of angle. Maybe you could give some hints as how to make the dovetails more precise and/or show things that you have to be aware of when measuring, marking and cutting.
Er... You left out the part where you accumulate 5 years of experience and acquire a deadly accurate hand and eye! I guess the video would have been a bit too long for RUclips..
+sigung01 The lines of which you speak are often if not always present on older antiques such as chipendales. More modern work often leaves the line absent. More traditional reproduction work often leaves the line.
I liked your video, but I saw something that continues to baffle me. Why would you leave an ugly shoulder line all the way across the wood when it would be just as easy to make a broken line that does not mar the finished product. I see this time and time again on dovetail videos. There are a few people ( myself included ) that don't leave a continuous shoulder line visible, but so many do. How does someone who obviously does such fine workmanship as yourself live with that line? It would drive me crazy.
Hi, glad you liked the video. The reason I leave marking lines is because they are planed off later when fitting the drawer. In fact I would always plane over a dovetail joint when finishing, even on box (being careful only to plane onto the joint so as not to tear wood from the end).
John Bullar Oh my god thank you, I've been struggling with this...it really is a big deal to me. I saw how perfect your examples looked, but the line, it really threw me. I'm sure you are aware that there are a lot of people who leave that line on, completely visible, and never bother to plane it off or sand it off.. Anyhow, my boat is floating properly now.
Some people actually leave it to show that the joinery was done by hand. I guess it's annoying to be accused of using a router jig when you spent time doing it by hand. Then again, someone could use a router and still put scribe lines on it.
Hi I think I remember my tutor at college saying the knife line not only shows the drawer was made by hand but also shows that it was made to an exact size with only a very small amount of planing needed in the width to make a final fit ie the your accuracy is less than the depth of two knife lines.
MrSamywammy Hi, thanks for your comment. I agree with your tutor that some makers leave lines for that reason, but its not what I do. It depends on the depth of knife line you need which in turn depends on how good your eyesight and lighting are. I mark deeper for videos or photos than I normally would. Also remember that planing a drawer to fit may need more taken from one side than the other if the opening is not completely square. Like so many things it is a matter of finding out what works best for you.
Hi John, many thanks for spending the time to respond to my posting with the suggestions on support for the butler sink. Thanks Stuart
That...was...sick!! I think you made those by hand faster than I can with a jog and router.
Good show!!
Glad to see you making videos again. Very clear and helpful. Can we have some more!
You're back! Great work John - I follow your videos and bought your previous books. My first dovetail joints I learned from your videos. Thank you for posting these videos, they help tremendously.
Your accuracy with the saw cuts is really impressive, I always have to cut mine slightly larger than they need to be, then pare them down to the final size - it gives you a lot more room for error but also takes longer to mark / cut.
Lewis Mealing I just started cutting away from the knife wall, and using a double bevel Japanese knife, then paring sneaking up on the fit much better results. My previous joints were too loose, so I must have been cutting into the wall, just enough to mess it up
Love to watch you work, very skilled. No guide, jig, freehand and a perfect fit. Oh, by the way, I bought your book and I love it. More videos, please!
Just doing my usual thing of watching joinery vids on youtube and thought that book looked familiar. Turns out i ordered it last week and it's due for delivery tomorrow. Can't wait, looks good.
Yay! New videos! I love your old ones. Please keep making them.
I (hammer, hammer, hammer) really (hammer, hammer, hammer) enjoyed (hammer, hammer, hammer) this (hammer, hammer, hammer) video.
At last. Someone who sets out the tails like I do! I tried the dividers method. Way too complicated for me! Lol! Thanks John. JW.
Thanks so much for sharing the great tips!! What a gorgeous contrast of wood!
Excellent video! Well organized and to the point. Thanks!
Nice Video "how to" and the book is really nice and full of quality pictures with clear instructions.
A bench with what I conclude would be dovetails on all four corners and the carcass you're putting the dryer into houndstooth dovetails for the carcass, well done lad very well done. I just finished my latest bench and I elected to be certified fully insane by putting houndstooth dovetails around all four corners of a full-size bench something that if I choose to do it again the recipient of the bench will pay dearly
you have great skills. I hope to emulate these skills on my current build of my grandsons desk drawers. thanks for sharing
Wow! That was fun (and humbling) to watch. Thank you.
Good vid with clear instructions. Thanks John!
Great video! Should help me to start giving these half blinds a shot. Thank you!
wow no angle marking .Thats really handmade .Excellent mate.
Great video. I now want the book.
For some reason out of all the videos I've watched on half blind dovetails I haven't seen the use of a backing board. Maybe I just didn't notice they all used one. Well, just came in from the shop where I am cutting my first half blind dovetails on a real project using poplar and cherry. I broke out the back of the cherry! Very frustrating as I spent a long time getting that drawer front just so and it is one of a matched pair. I didn't use or need a backing board for all my poplar practice joints. I assume that is because the poplar is soft enough that the chisel easily pared it down. Woodworking can be so frustrating!
Interesting video. In Germany we do first the sockets with the help of an old saw blade, then the tails.
Beautiful work John. I'm ordering a copy of your book. Thanks very much for posting.
minimal fuss. terrific.
How to make a dovetail joint is nicely explained, it looks strong and grace.
Thank you for making the video and it was useful.
Very nicely done.
Wow! It is gold hands.
Love the video and I also bought the book
Today I received my Gramercy Dovetail saw. I see you use one. How do you like it? I really appreciate the HD quality of your video.
The Gramercy dovetail saw is brilliant for fine delicate work, but it's a bit of a luxury. You need something more robust like a Lie Nielsen Independence for routine joints.
Thank you so much for the great video, definitely de-mystified the whole process, I will have to give this a try :) besides I have a new set of Japanese pull saws coming next week, and I just know they are going to need a workout :)
Dear John Bullar, my name is Angel Morales from Mexico City. I'm grateful with this tutorial, your performance was excellent and did help me to fix my few experience about dovetail joints. How can I get your new book? Warmest regards!
+JOSE ANGEL MORALES
Hi, thanks for your comments. You can get my book The Complete Guide to Joint Making from Amazon.
That seemed so, so fast! Would you say that is a normal working speed for a cabinet maker John? Thanks. Richard.
Thank you for your video!!, I just purchased your book.
Good demostration
Makes it look easy.
Yeah. The guy has got skills.
How did yours turn out?
Ask me again in 6 months.
lol
Mark Ferguson
Ask, your after in 6 month ;)
Thank you for your video!!, I just purchased your book.
Please give me the brand name of all of these tools you are using (so I can follow exactly what you are doing on the video and book) and a suggestion for a good wood working bench., Thank you David
Hi David,
We made this video last year so I don't completely remember but the main items were: Titemark marking gauge, Lie Nielsen based on Stanley 750 Bevel Edge Socket Chisels, Gramercy Dovetail saw, shop-made Carver's Mallet, shop-made bench with Record vices.
Enjoy the book!
John Bullar great video. how ca i get your book or where?
cesar garay Hi, you can get my book from Amazon. Just look up ' The Complete Guide to Joint Making'
Best wishes, John
Do you mill your own wood or do you normally buy it milled already?
Hi John, some years ago you did an article (I think it was Router Magazine) for a Butler Sink cupboard made with. I appear to have lost the magazine and I plan to re-design and build a new kitchen in Spring, the above as a main feature.Could you possibly inform me what magazine it was and possibly the issue, or if you have a plan that would be great.I purchased Cabinetmaking A Foundation Course hoping it could possibly be included in the bookThanksStuart
+Stuart Grierson
Hi Stuart, that was a long time ago.
I will have a look for you but I've been writing for several publishers over twenty years and I don't have many of the older articles. A butler sink full of water is extremely heavy so I suggest you could build a frame with a rigid vertical support down to the ground beneath each corner. Fixed a panel on the back and each side for bracing. The rest can be like any other kitchen cabinet.
Regards John.
Are any of your books, especially the complete guide to joint making, available in a PDF format?
I liked the look of that metal marking gauge - 'till I saw the price! :-)
The Veritas is cheaper than the Quangsheng one, weirdly. Treat yourself :-)
Nice work. I have never tried to cut a half blind dovetail. My hand cut regular dovetails never fit that tight. I need more practice.
I have tried many times to make dovetails with very limited success; they do not fit snuggly together and they are out of angle. Maybe you could give some hints as how to make the dovetails more precise and/or show things that you have to be aware of when measuring, marking and cutting.
Er... You left out the part where you accumulate 5 years of experience and acquire a deadly accurate hand and eye! I guess the video would have been a bit too long for RUclips..
Impressive! Thanks.
amazing
What type of dovetail saw is that in on the bench
It's a Gramercy dovetail saw.
Beautiful handle
beautiful
Great video - thanks. Voice sounds like Anthony Hopkins...
True indeed. The Voice of Wisdom along with the Skills of the Ages
It looks like you're using firmer chisels instead of bevel-edged - is there any reason?
They are Lie Nielsen bevel-edge socket chisels. They are thicker than most bevel edged, maybe that's why they look a bit like firmer chisels.
what brand and model are those chisels?
Lie Nielsen based on Stanley 750 Bevel Edge Socket Chisels
John Bullar thank you!
Are there any new videos in the pipeline? I bought the book. Make some new stuff, please.
Don't worry the video was very useful.
Awesome
+sigung01 The lines of which you speak are often if not always present on older antiques such as chipendales. More modern work often leaves the line absent. More traditional reproduction work often leaves the line.
I liked your video, but I saw something that continues to baffle me. Why would you leave an ugly shoulder line all the way across the wood when it would be just as easy to make a broken line that does not mar the finished product. I see this time and time again on dovetail videos. There are a few people ( myself included ) that don't leave a continuous shoulder line visible, but so many do. How does someone who obviously does such fine workmanship as yourself live with that line? It would drive me crazy.
Hi, glad you liked the video. The reason I leave marking lines is because they are planed off later when fitting the drawer. In fact I would always plane over a dovetail joint when finishing, even on box (being careful only to plane onto the joint so as not to tear wood from the end).
John Bullar Oh my god thank you, I've been struggling with this...it really is a big deal to me. I saw how perfect your examples looked, but the line, it really threw me.
I'm sure you are aware that there are a lot of people who leave that line on, completely visible, and never bother to plane it off or sand it off..
Anyhow, my boat is floating properly now.
Some people actually leave it to show that the joinery was done by hand. I guess it's annoying to be accused of using a router jig when you spent time doing it by hand. Then again, someone could use a router and still put scribe lines on it.
Hi I think I remember my tutor at college saying the knife line not only shows the drawer was made by hand but also shows that it was made to an exact size with only a very small amount of planing needed in the width to make a final fit ie the your accuracy is less than the depth of two knife lines.
MrSamywammy Hi, thanks for your comment. I agree with your tutor that some makers leave lines for that reason, but its not what I do. It depends on the depth of knife line you need which in turn depends on how good your eyesight and lighting are. I mark deeper for videos or photos than I normally would. Also remember that planing a drawer to fit may need more taken from one side than the other if the opening is not completely square. Like so many things it is a matter of finding out what works best for you.