thats why i dont use 2 bucket method anymore. Its so much easier to rinse mitt with pressure washer (white nozzle on low psi), and squize out the rest of the water. You dont even have to use grit guard, but its great point in having one in bucket. I washed my show car for years without gritguard in a bucket and it was swirl free. The most important thing in washing is regular rinsing, good prewash, quality shampoo lubrication and quality wash media and dry media.
Exactly. Most people go straight to the foam cannon. I always rinse with a pressure washer first then put the foam on after. Doesnt matter if the car looks clean. Always rinse first.
How often does your show car get driven? If it's not a daily driven car then there's less of a chance it would pick up any kind of debris that would scratch the paint I'd think....
If you’re just washing you own car you can just buy multiple mitts and just use a fresh mitt instead of rinsing. You can find good quality microfiber mitts for lass than $10. It’s pricier, but the mitts will also last a lot longer with lower use and good care.
I think the pre wash is also more important than any Grit Guard or whether you use 1,2 or 3 buckets or the multiple mitt/microfibre method. You have to swipe your chosen wash media across the paint so if your pre wash was poor then so will be your results. It’s all in the prep.
Thank you for your hardwork making this video! I personally use the pressure washer and MTM Foam Cannon method for quick washes. If I'm doing a full weekend detail I would use: Pressure Washer, Foam Cannon, Three Buckets (Meguiar's) with CG Cyclone (X2) & Meguair's Grit Guard (X2) stacked, and Five Meguiar's Mitts. This might be over kill but it's my car I'm cleaning. The double stacked Cyclone and Grit Guard actually do work well. All the dirt stays at the bottom of the yellow bucket! A good tip is to change the Rinse Bucket water 1/2 way through the car. I've watched the whole video and read every comment too. I picked up another good tip in the comment section. Ring out the water on the Mitt before cleaning it in the Rinse Bucket. I got to try that one out this weekend. Keep up the excellent work!
You always provide SUBSTANCE amongst all the fluff in the detailing industry. Thank you for all your hard work and dedication!! it really is helpful for the people learning about detailing. (followed you for 2 years and you always deliver)
thx jordan, worth saying this video is just my opinion. And its so damn subjective, I think though as long as you give the reasons and explain though people can sort of decide whats best for them. this is just an attempt at testing 3 cool options.
I have gotten rid of the 2 bucket grit guard method. I found the multiple wash mitt method is far superior because I never have to use a dirty mitt, I don't have to waste time cleaning the mitt and I only need one bucket so I don't use as much water.
Evolq the way I do it. 2 sided mitts. Foam up a buck with 1/4 up with water and your car soap and let your mitts soak in the foamy goodness. One side per panel then flip for the next. After lay the dirty mitt on the edge of the bucket, don’t let the dirty water run in to the bucket. Grab another mitt and repeat. (Depends on the vehicle size for how many mitts and how filthy. If chucks of mud this is not the best option) Another method I also do is Foam blaster (not canon) rinse the car off of loose dirt. Foam vehicle. Foam mitt work one panel then turn nob to flush mitt with fresh water and remove dirty and foam and on to the next panel. Not including tires and rims full size Sedan about 15 mins
Well, you will have to use plenty of water to wash every single mitt then after, as well as plenty of time thoroughly inspecting each of them looking for any remaining dirt & brushing them all... but the wash itself will be quicker, that's for sure. I would need 15 to 20 mitts to perform what I consider it is a safely multiple mitt technique. Meanwhile 2 (5 gallons) buckets method will be fine for me. ( with actually 3 girt guards inserted inside the "rinse" bucket, and 1 on the "wash" one )
Z Z to each is own. I think the two buckets and all the grit guards is the industry making money. I have started out with all that but now just do the 2nd option that I listed.
I use one standard grit guard on the bottom of the rinse bucket and on top of it I use the angled grit guard to rub my mitt against it. I do not use any grit guards on my wash bucket because it's always clean or as clean as it ever can be. 1 thing is that I do not scoop water from the wash bucket so if there is few tiny particles of dirt I will not bring those up to my mitt.
Ive always used cc cyclone in the bottom with the grit guard on top in both wash and rinse buckets. Then the bottom dirt stands still and i can rubb the washmitt on the grit guard to release the dirt. I also use one merino whool washpad for the roof, glass and hood and a microfibermitt on the lower dirtier half of the car and the back. This way i think i cant do much more to prevent swirls.
Great review! As others have stated, I have simply gone to a single bucket, many mitt wash method. I have about 10 mitts, each designated for different parts of the car, and they are used once per wash. No need to worry about dirt in the bucket, etc...
Already have the grit guard and was on the fence about detail guards model, think you answered all my questions so I thank you for that my friend. Awesome test thank you. Kurt
The "thin ridge" on the bottom of the CG Cyclone is called flash. It's a result of either bad tooling where there is a slight gap or its incorrect machine processing, ie over pressurized of the plastic actually blowing the tool open slightly.
Great analysis. Fitment is key as you say. On ocassion if I dont seat the guard quite right, it will float up. As far as stacking, unless they lock together seems the top guard will move or float. I supposed they can be tie wrapped together and rely on a good friction fit of the bottom guard...don't know. As another poster said below, I don't bother with two buckets. I spray the mitt with my stubby gun and ring before re-dunking. The car's been pressure pre-rinsed, foamed, pressure rinsed. By the time I do my contact wash, the majority of the heavier grime is gone so I feel good with the one bucket and rinse/ring of the mitt. A good drying towel and drying agent is just as critical of a step as well to minimize micro-marring.
I've found that the standard grit gaurd works really well in the sort of classic black builders bucket which has a very slight conical shape, this serves to wedge the grit gaurd in-place about half way down, leaving several inches below it! And it means that gaurd doesn't move when giving the mitt a good twist! So I've used that method as a rinse bucket ever since 🙂 give it a try, you might find it a nice cheap and easy little setup. Great video as always mate 👍
I think the best test would of been to start with a glove and measure out equal sand for all 3 products to tests. Put the sand on the glove and push it up in down in the bucket to simulate washing, see which unit gobbles up all the particles and what is left floating around in the bucket. All these units like you say are designed very differently, so to see a test like this would of been more of a real-world scenario since the debris doesn't start underneath the screen when you are washing.
Interesting results. I do use the basic guard but I agree with some other comments and with one of your previous videos. Multiple mitts for different sections. Seems the safest bet.
Chris Booth I’m starting to think the same thing. Soap bucket for the towels you mentioned and a second bucket used for chucking the towels after all sides have been used then moving to clean one. Dirty towels never entering the soap bucket would allow the remaining soap to be used later if you put a lid on you bucket. Not a big deal but some of the high dollar products would be more economical if that was a concern. Brian from apex addresses that in one of his videos. Glad these guys share so much experience ! It sure helps in forming my own opinions 🤘🏼
@@inxs13 Yes, you are certainly on the right track mate! For an expansion on the 2 or 3 cloth no-redip method, please see my comment to Jon near the top of his RUclips entitled "The Best Car Soap Shampoo - 20 Product Shootout" Using a bucket with a lid is THE best way to conserve your wash media! Cheers and happy washing ! BTW . . . To those who think this method is "over the top" . . . nope. The "harm" you do to your clear coat is NOT noticeable on a per wash basis using the old method. But it IS cumulative. It really IS time for a new car wash paradigm . . . The ONLY thing that will suffer is grit guard sales : )
I suspect the grit guard fitted with a washboard will overcome most of the negatives but of course you have to factor in the extra cost. I have a single grit guard in my wash bucket and a grit guard with a washboard fitted in my rinse bucket. I am not sure whether the one in the wash bucket is superfluous but you never get all of the dirt out so I figure it’s best to have one in the wash bucket. I like the idea of the gritguard with a washboard sitting on top of a chemical guys one. I certainly feel that any of them is worth having rather than not having one at all. One negative of a tight fit of course is that you will have debris stacking up at the sides rather than falling to the bottom of the bucket were it a bit more loose
Nice job as always. I currently using the two buck method, with 3 inserts in the rinse (cyclone on bottom and grit guard on top, with the wash board attachment) and 1 in the wash bucket. However, I'm currently purchasing many wash mitts to eventually have enough to move to the no bucket or a least one bucket method. I live in two story apartment and carrying all that water and buckets up and down is a pain every week.
Another great shoot out review Jon! I have inexpensive generic debris guards that I got from the local car parts store here in Canada (Canadian Tire) that I have in the bottom of my buckets, then I stack the actual Grit Guard on top of those. I wanted to keep the mit as far away from the bottom as possible. I do like the vacuum effect of the Turbine Guards so I'm going to pick up a couple and try them this spring. Thanks again for a GREAT review! Roll on Spring!!!
Im just not sure about that turbine effect :) at least I cant seem to like see like some sort of draw of clean water down as a result of pumping. but like my ability to measure it isnt great,, so jurys out on that part of the product claim at least for me. but I just simply like the DG design generally.
@@ForensicDetailing I watched their video a few times and it seems as if the ...for lack of a better word...sucking effect happens as you draw the mit up after the initial downwards press. I guess I'll have to see come spring how it goes. Thanks again mate!
Personally, I use a cyclone in both wash and rinse buckets, and I recently put the detail guardz product on top of the cyclone in my wash solution bucket. I had the same intuition that the cyclone kept the dirt down the best but also let the least through. The regular grit guard seemed way too open to me. So I figured this particular combo would work well. I have clear buckets and can confirm in real wash scenarios that the combo is superior to either on their own. Ultimately, whether you use the grit guards and two bucket method or single bucket with multiple mitts, you can still introduce marring either way if you're making contact with the paint and it's not perfectly clean. At the end of the day, minimizing that marring is the key. Grit guards are useful products for those using the two bucket method.
Multiple mitts, multiple buckets, stacked grit guards in each bucket. How much grit, filth and corruption are you guys subjecting your mitts and wash water to? If you follow a good regimen of removing the dirt and grit with a foam cannon, and pressure washer pre-clean, the only thing really left on the car to remove with the mitt is the grime. One mitt, two buckets, and your choice of grit guard in the wash bucket just in case, and you should be 99.9% free of potential scratching. I let my buckets settle until I have finished drying the car, just to see what dirt did accumulate at the bottom, and there is virtually nothing every time, in each bucket. Tells me the system is working. Have been doing this for several years and my car's finish is perfect still. No need to complicate everything. Great channel. I enjoy your product reviews.
Good comparison. I've found the Cyclone needs you to swirl your water round. If you do that, you can see the grit getting drawn down the nozzles & under the guard.
Thorough pre-rinse with pressure washer 2 buckets. Grid guard in both. Wash board in rinse bucket. 1-2 mitts for upper panels/upper half. 1-2 mitts for lower panels/lower half. Single use sponges for under carriage, wheels and wheel arches. Use a good soap. Wash top to bottom and front to back.
Great video, My only question is, is all dirt created equal? Sand and soil may behave very differently. Sand will stay consistent while soil will break down. It might be worth re-running the tests using soil (i.e., dirt). My observation of using the CG and the original grit guard is less murky water with the CGs. When I empty the bucket both seem to do a fine job keeping the dirt below them and not floating in the water or stuck to the sides of the bucket.
yer fair play good point kind of touched on this in the video. I just cant see whats going on if I use dirt lots of it disolves like you say you get brown water all round. So this is kind of using fine sand as a simulation only.
@@ForensicDetailing Could you use a light meter to determine which is cleaner based on opacity? Put a fixed light on one side and measure the received light on the other using a mitt dirtied, dunked and cleaned and removed say a dozen times? Then filter the water and measure how much was in suspension and how much was trapped? A lot of work I know. Just the Engineer in me coming out :) PS - Actually, that might be an interesting way to test the value of ONR, no?
@@ForensicDetailing Don't sell yourself short Jon! You're a great practical Engineer! I am really curious about seeing ONR pull dirt to the bottom as they claim. I think I might have to get myself one of those clear buckets.
Always great video Jon, that’s really nice that you take time to do some comparaisons. As some mention, i never used 2 bucket method and I use a 3 gallon bucket. I just rinse my mith with the hose, I use less water in that way.
Same here. One mitt that's rinsed with the hose after each panel. Sometimes twice for the rear if it's very dirty and I've never seen dirt sediments in the bucket. Using the flat setting of the hose attachment for a stronger spray and wider coverage, the dirt quickly sprays right off.
The Chem Guy cyclone has the issue of plastic flashing covering the holes on the underside. A flame or heat gun will melt the flashing back and open the holes all uniformly. A better design would be to have the flats on the cyclone guard all rounded upward. That way there are no spots for the grit to land without it just sliding into the little cones.
great video to prove why NOT to buy into the two bucket grit guard system. Spent the money on multiple mitts and never ever put them back into the soap bucket and you will never run in to cross contamination. All that said love the clear bucket and thanks for another great informative video.
What's the most effective stack for ghost buckets? Two Chemical Guys Cyclone and the washboard? Maybe two turbines or maybe two grit guards. Perhaps a mix of brands such as cyclone at the base (best at preventing dirt coming up), turbine in the middle (for tight fit) and washboard on the top (probably attached using cable ties if it's not compatible). Perhaps cutting a cyclone to make a washboard would be good. Any thoughts?
I use The Big Red Sponge with ONR and have a Cyclone in the bottom and I think that's a killer-combo for rinseless washes. I never scrub the Sponge against the Cyclone because that is not needed.
Can always rely on you Jon to come up with original ideas for product test and comparisons. I just have the original grit guards. Two in my rinse bucket and one in my wash bucket. They do the job really well. If I needed new ones I think I’d try the cyclones but doubt that will ever happen as the originals last forever!
thanks chris appreciate it mate. I think thats like the best thing is like to try the other ones the next time you need to upgrade. althoguh these things seem to last a lifetime :)
im using the chemical guys cyclone grit guard in the bottom of all my 3 wash buckets with the standard grit guard on top of it for exstra protection. I have only the washboard in my rinse bucket and yes they are exspensive but they pretty much last forever as long as you dont try to destroy them and treat them like garbage that is
Jon do you have a link for the wash buckets you use ( not the clear one) because I've got the turbine grit guard and it just floats in my buckets. Thanks
You got the rubber grips on them? If not, the store you purchased from will give them to you free of charge and should have included them into the shipment. I had the same problem, ordered another one couple days ago and already came with them installed.
The Detail Guardz Dirt Lock was the only one that had no debris floating about when you were pumping your mitt @6:30, watch how it pushes the water and sand down but nothing up. How did that one lose? :O Just bought one from In2Detailing to replace my current guards
Did you ever review AutoGlym's Red grit pad that fits the bottom of their twin bucket wash system? It is like a huge plastic scourer that supposedly traps dirt in its plastic spaghetti type surface.
I use regular grit guards but they don’t tend to fit exactly right in the bucket as he showed anyone know if that will affect rinsing the wash mit will it bring back up the dirt if it’s doesn’t fit tight by a little having a little space in the side of the grit guard when it’s placed
I find the one bucket method using the hose pipe to rinse my wash mitt after each panel works very well especially with ONR added to my Bilt Hamber shampoo. Great review though👍👍
works great in the summar which your less reliant on the pressure washer and heavier films of dirt perhaps are less in play. I still do that on the golf. hose, bucket with some BH and ONR and give the car a very quick clean rinsing out the pad with the hose and also using the hose to keep the car cool and not dry out.
@@mickperry6248 yer i do mick, it cleans really really well, good value, suds up if you want it to.. have a watch of the "best shampoo" shootout video on the channel where we compare 20.. most automotive car soaps nowadays are superb, cost for wash became one of the most important things for me in that test.
Have you considered stacking, an original grit guard (with washboard) on-top of the turbo grit guard? So it falls through the original grit guard easiest but then after a few dunks of the mitt will agitate it down through the turbo and lock it better down there and keep the mitt away from the dirt
Thank you Jon for always thinking out of the box or should I say bucket. Can you rerun this experiment using the two bucket method with car soap. I sure you would see the residual dirt being trapped in the soap suds on both buckets causing the mitt to mar or micro scratch your car's clear coat. You can always spray off your mitt after the rinse bucket before going back to the car soap bucket. Instead of the Grit Guard Washboard you can purchase for $3 a Wooster small or large plastic paint can roller grid. I'll stay using the one bucket method with seven mitts.
one of my patrons suggested to test with car soap. So I did put some into the ghost bucket but it didnt really effect anything.. because its just sand. It wouldnt have an impact on the test criteria I was looking at in this test. but would sort of help to break down real dirt in a normal bucket and effect things perhaps.
The original grit guard with the add on scrubber piece is the combo that I like. I actually do like the loose fit as I can remove it easily for cleaning of the bucket and finding of the guard. Too tight of a fit makes it a pain to remove. Using these guards in a two bucket method a person can really see the results as I have seen the rinse bucket very dirty and the soap bucket still clean water at the end of the wash
i think that tight fit could be the most important thing you could do though, like rollo said in my facebook page. without the tight fit, if that grit guard moves around the fins actually push the dirt all over the place. I think Im gonna look to get some rubber/foam adhesive like the DG uses to brace mine. although Im not sure for me jsut cleaning my car at home its gonna be a huge factor.. like when I go into contact wash the red peril its very very clean anything because I can get so much off with like greenstar or autofoam plus a blast with pressure washer if need be.
I've got mine from AliExpress they look exactly like the chemical guys one. I'm thinking I should look there too find ones that look like the grit guards ones.
Hi John, on the subject of scratch prevention... does your M140 have hard paint? I only ask as a few months back I picked up a new Mini cooper company car and the paint is like butter, breathe on it and it shows up wide hologram swirl marks, even with VERY careful washing, 3 bucket method and applying no pressure at all, and using new/clean microfibers when drying... even patting the surface dry. Only ever applied a coating of Fusso when it was new, I bet buffing off even caused scratching, even with high pile microfibers... driving me insane. Using the Sealey inspection torch at night shows up loads of swirls. (Doesn't help that it's black) Can I expect my new 1 series to be more durable? (Also black)
Im pretty sure my 140 has hard paint. Ive not hit it with a heavy compound yet though.. but the paint on regs white 140 was really really hard. the paint on the 135 was nice, it was hard but it was really easy to polish, just nice to work with, I prefer it when the paints rock hard. I have lots of work to do on this 140 its got all sort of marks on it. Im just waiting for like spring, its really too cold to apply the coating now in my garage. it suxs when you have mega soft paint, really does. Ive never ever polished a mini so not sure.. but coatings can help when you have soft paint that your struggling to maintain, obviously doesnt turn it bullet proof but ive suggested them to a fair few guys having wash problems and they were really happy with the improvement after the coating with wash related marring.
TBH i still prefer the one bucket and spray gun method i watched you demonstrate, seems safer than rinsing my wash mitt in a bucket that soon turns dirty.
get onto detail guardz and/or your suppliers casper let them know you want them and it will happen. the companies that sell them will also want people to be happy with them rather than not happy. I think those rubber like foot sticker things are important.
Check restaurant supply stores as well. There are many shapes and sizes of clear buckets to choose from. Plus most food containers have measurement marks on the sides. They're not as durable as a true wash bucket though.
Good review Jon, I use the double stack Grit Guard in my buckets with the washboard in the rinse bucket. If the Detail Guard also had a washboard attachment they’d be on to a winner. In the mean time I’ll be sticking with the Grit Guard.
The first and only grit guard I've tried is the chemical guys cyclone. I use it with their white bucket. It sits a bit tight in the bucket and it's a little annoying removing it from the bucket after use as there's no grip. To be honest I think it does work. I can easily see the black dirt after removing the grit guard over the white bucket. Slim's detailing sell a few slightly damaged ones in their store for cheap
Thanks for the video. One suggestion is to dab your mitt up and down and scruff it with your other hand nearer to the top of the bucket. Try to stay away from the dirt in the bottom and other dirt trying to find it's way to the bottom.
I just like the little washboard thing but yer.. the washboard doesnt work great with say a long shaggy wool mitt. works great with the microfiber madness pad though. can use your hand like you say. cheers mate
I use the original grit guard and have never had a problem. In addition, I've tried Autoglym's new drying cloth, had it a couple of weeks. I'll definitely be getting a couple more. I also tried Autoglym 's Polar Seal today, I applied it after using their Polar Blast on a new vehicle with Super Resin and Ultra HD Gloss. Looking forward to seeing how it performs.
I rub my wash mitt against the grit guard and squeeze is out before dipping into the wash bucket. For some reason, my wash bucket ends up with more grit in the bottom than my rinse bucket! I'm going to try not rubbing the mitt against the guard next time and see if that helps. Also, did you consider stacking the standard grit guard or the black guard over the chemical guys one?
You could stack a cyclone on the bottom, and on top a classic grit guard, this way dirt wouldn't go up because of cyclone guard, but will go down through classic grit guard,would be interesting to see if this works
Thanks for posting this. I use the Chemguys specifically because it seemed the best design to trap dirt. Now I'm going to plonk a grit or detail guard on top as well :)
A battery powered small pump that attaches to the top of the bucket......a draw straw that sits below the grit guard. Very little suction/gpm flow rate, the draw straw sucks out the spent/dirty water......An outlet port on the pump drips out the spent water.
If I didn’t already have a grit guard, this video is a helpful review. But I use two buckets 4 grit guards(2 in each bucket) n the black mit scrub thing in the rinse bucket. So possibly over kill but it works for me n I have no fear of large dirt particles get back on to the car. Keep up the great videos n hard work John.
The normal grit guard is horrible for places like Dubai, the issue is with the fine sand grains resurfacing upon agitation. However, doubling / stacking them up will work flawlessly.
Great to see these visually tested so well. However, I still use your one bucket wash! I love simply spraying the guck out of the mitt between passes - seems to be much better than bunging the mitt back into increasingly dirty water! I use a 97p B&Q bucket with good car soap, a small splash of ONR, cheap Chinese short hair mitt and the Hozelock multi spray device. I use my 20L bucckets for storing various car and wheel wash tools for easy of carrying round the car ...
man its cool to see peeps using that. a lot of times in the summer I still just quickly grab a bucket and soap and mitt throw some onr in there and some soap and go round the car with the hose in one hand and the mitt in the other.. little rinse first and away and Im round the car in not much time. but I guess its not really that kind of credible, its like a good quick wash method i think.. but Ive always felt its safe enough and quick.
@@ForensicDetailing I think it IS credible! Wash the bits out onto the driveway. The Gary Deane method (multiple cloths) is also very credible but results in many more cloths to wash! I use your method on a not too dirty car, which often means it follows on from a snow foam.
Interesting Video Jon . I use the standard grit guard in both my wash and rinse buckets and they seem to do the job great!! I would say my wash mitt never gets below half way down the bucket though I rinse it out with my hands near the surface then dip it into the wash bucket again only near the top. I am hoping before I return any heavy dirt has long sank to the bottom and would not get back into my Mitt. That's just the way i do it. I am hoping my pre contact wash procedure is good enough to remove the harmful big dirt bits.
you could do yer if you dig the whole filter thing from these products. Ive heard peeps say thats what they use, I think some peeps will laugh though.. you can see the broad spectrum of opinions of the whole grit guard thing in the comments some dont use them, some get a lot of value from them.
John, I'm wanting to invest in a new bucket and grit guard. Do you have a recommendation of a bucket and grit guard which fit well together? Our car is getting ceramic coated so is it best to have two buckets or just the one with grit guard?
i use dooka buckets. in this video you can see how the 3 guards mount into my dooka buckets. they are slightley too big for the patent grit guards not tight fit so you get movcement
I stack my grit guard over the vortex. My thought is the dirt easily drops through the top grit guard works it’s way through the vortex and then gets locked under. Shrug.
So glad the grit gard came out in 1st. I've been using Meguiars grit gards as I got 2 free when I bought 2 Meguiars buckets. I tend to have the top 1 at an angle so I can scrub my mitt better.
Great video, I personally use the cg one as a base and the grit guard on top. I find it's just lowering the risk and for not a big expense. The cg guards were on offer for 6.50 at one stage and I got my grit guard for 7. So for 13.50 its not breaking the bank and helping toward a safer wash. Great work jon
@@PolishedandWaxed1 thanks man, Id love to get your take on that DG one. damn tough to rank these it really depends on personal criteria. so often the comments give a good broad representation of what other people make of this and this one is as divided as all of them :) the thing I like is we have credible options to explore that are unique and designed to be different.
Im getting old man :( I had to do lots of retakes because I couldnt remember what each of the products were called. like kept calling one the vortex and the other one the hurrican or tornado. brain fade.
Good video. Byt the CG cyclone thingy, isnt it supposed to work better when rubbing over tge guard in a circular fashion, making many small cyclones in the guard, pulling the dirt down and under? Would be cool to see a comparison with double guards also. I am using a Cyclone in the bottom and a GritGuard with the mitt accessorie on top now myself.
Great review. Visuals clearly showed the flow of grit. BTW have you done a video on washing with cold, warm or hot water? I've always used hot but I wonder if I I'm washing away the polymer coating on my car?
it wont make too much difference rixter. hot water does help breakdown grease a bit but car panels generally are things which dont need like potent chems to clean back.
Nice video Jon. As crazy as may sound i've never even considered using the 2 bucket method with grid guards. I just use the one bucket and invested in 8 mits that I just put aside after using. If need to use one of them again, I'll just rinse it straight under the hose. Not all people are as crazy as I am of course 😉
Honestly, I still haven’t gotten on board with the grit guards because if you are doing a proper pre wash there shouldn’t be that much or that heavy of debris left over.
@@ForensicDetailing yea sorry for missing that bit. I had a look again. Anything is better than nothing. Nice to see someone do a decent test on them all
With the thought that has went into these guards I think they should have paid attention to redesigning the bucket. Just make a bucket that has a pump with a filter.
good vid mate, if i was to use gritguards i would indeed put the CG one on the bottem and the other one on top of it, but tbh i stepped away from even using 2 buckets and i tell you why: for my own cars i dont use a pressure washer i just use a garden hose and one of those attatchments that has a showerstance, i use one bucket and i start by doing half of the bonnit with one side of the mitt and then flip it over and do the other half, then i put the mitt on one of the windows and rinse it out thoughourly because it opens up the fibers and the dirt just rinses away so my mitt is clean when i dunk it in the washbucket. for cars at my work i do use a pressure washer but still with one bucket, yes it probaply causes some micromarring but i cant see them with the naked eye, and the reality is the cars that i wash on my work have to be polished anyway so any microscratches that might have been put in will get polished out anyway so i dont really care about it
Good vid Jon 👍🏼 I think these videos are always good as it not so much about the products necessarily but the insight is for the way we should use these products, so we thank you for that. After years of cleaning You’ve made me realise that actually one shouldn’t be wiping the wash mitt down the bottom. Bloody good ! I’ve doubled up on the grit guard for a while now and I think it works better for sure. 👍🏼
thx max. Its hard to walk this line, doing this is like a tightrope. its also one of the reasons the comments sections are so damn usefull because its like a feed of other good advice and perspectives
Nice video and review but I think It's pretty clear that you might have mixed up the Dirt Lock with the Chemical Guys unit. If you look at the footage from chemical guys dirt trap @5:59 - you can see the dirt wants to come up when you pull up your glove, but does not move down. If you look at the footage from the Dirt Lock @6:29, you can see it being shot down to the bottom and doesn't even flinch to come back up. So what it's an extra $5 for a Dirt Lock, the bloody thing actually works and doesn't move around in my bucket. I can confirm as I have all 3 and done similar tests and is definitely the best IMO. None are perfect, but certainly night and day difference by using a Dirt Lock compared to others... Anyways, keep on rocking and pumping out more videos!
I spent about 2 hours playing around with the 3 products. pumping up and down waving around , swiping mitt over guard making little notes. I just grabbed the bits of footage that try and demo it, but its very hard to film it and get the light and focus right. pretty sure though when dirt is below the guard the CG one was prett damn cool, but the DG one is a lot better than the GG. fitment is critical yes. its very subjective and any other person could come to different conclusions and the results could change by just altering like the weighting of criteria because to some peeps price difference is irrellevent. but to other peeps they will go nuts that a moulded plastic product is 15 quid. so I just try and run it fair and explain how I do it. but if you read all the comments below as well you get a good idea to what people generally feel as a broader spectrum.
thats why i dont use 2 bucket method anymore. Its so much easier to rinse mitt with pressure washer (white nozzle on low psi), and squize out the rest of the water. You dont even have to use grit guard, but its great point in having one in bucket. I washed my show car for years without gritguard in a bucket and it was swirl free. The most important thing in washing is regular rinsing, good prewash, quality shampoo lubrication and quality wash media and dry media.
Exactly. Most people go straight to the foam cannon. I always rinse with a pressure washer first then put the foam on after. Doesnt matter if the car looks clean. Always rinse first.
@@lucidworxbut if I use prewash or foam one wet sacrifice, the lubricant don't lose their activities?
How often does your show car get driven? If it's not a daily driven car then there's less of a chance it would pick up any kind of debris that would scratch the paint I'd think....
@@beauchang4741 i driven my show car almost daily and it was not garage queen.
If you’re just washing you own car you can just buy multiple mitts and just use a fresh mitt instead of rinsing. You can find good quality microfiber mitts for lass than $10. It’s pricier, but the mitts will also last a lot longer with lower use and good care.
I think the pre wash is also more important than any Grit Guard or whether you use 1,2 or 3 buckets or the multiple mitt/microfibre method. You have to swipe your chosen wash media across the paint so if your pre wash was poor then so will be your results. It’s all in the prep.
Thank you for your hardwork making this video!
I personally use the pressure washer and MTM Foam Cannon method for quick washes. If I'm doing a full weekend detail I would use: Pressure Washer, Foam Cannon, Three Buckets (Meguiar's) with CG Cyclone (X2) & Meguair's Grit Guard (X2) stacked, and Five Meguiar's Mitts.
This might be over kill but it's my car I'm cleaning. The double stacked Cyclone and Grit Guard actually do work well. All the dirt stays at the bottom of the yellow bucket!
A good tip is to change the Rinse Bucket water 1/2 way through the car. I've watched the whole video and read every comment too. I picked up another good tip in the comment section. Ring out the water on the Mitt before cleaning it in the Rinse Bucket. I got to try that one out this weekend.
Keep up the excellent work!
You always provide SUBSTANCE amongst all the fluff in the detailing industry. Thank you for all your hard work and dedication!! it really is helpful for the people learning about detailing. (followed you for 2 years and you always deliver)
thx jordan, worth saying this video is just my opinion. And its so damn subjective, I think though as long as you give the reasons and explain though people can sort of decide whats best for them. this is just an attempt at testing 3 cool options.
I have gotten rid of the 2 bucket grit guard method. I found the multiple wash mitt method is far superior because I never have to use a dirty mitt, I don't have to waste time cleaning the mitt and I only need one bucket so I don't use as much water.
Christopher Tapkins yup I have been this also ever since I hand washed my vehicles. Best sys hands down
How many wash mitts would you say you need to wash one car? I'm curious because this seems like something I want to try
Evolq
the way I do it.
2 sided mitts.
Foam up a buck with 1/4 up with water and your car soap and let your mitts soak in the foamy goodness.
One side per panel then flip for the next.
After lay the dirty mitt on the edge of the bucket, don’t let the dirty water run in to the bucket.
Grab another mitt and repeat. (Depends on the vehicle size for how many mitts and how filthy. If chucks of mud this is not the best option)
Another method I also do is Foam blaster (not canon)
rinse the car off of loose dirt.
Foam vehicle. Foam mitt work one panel then turn nob to flush mitt with fresh water and remove dirty and foam and on to the next panel.
Not including tires and rims full size Sedan about 15 mins
Well, you will have to use plenty of water to wash every single mitt then after, as well as plenty of time thoroughly inspecting each of them looking for any remaining dirt & brushing them all... but the wash itself will be quicker, that's for sure. I would need 15 to 20 mitts to perform what I consider it is a safely multiple mitt technique. Meanwhile 2 (5 gallons) buckets method will be fine for me. ( with actually 3 girt guards inserted inside the "rinse" bucket, and 1 on the "wash" one )
Z Z to each is own. I think the two buckets and all the grit guards is the industry making money. I have started out with all that but now just do the 2nd option that I listed.
You are a legend. Much respect
I use one standard grit guard on the bottom of the rinse bucket and on top of it I use the angled grit guard to rub my mitt against it. I do not use any grit guards on my wash bucket because it's always clean or as clean as it ever can be. 1 thing is that I do not scoop water from the wash bucket so if there is few tiny particles of dirt I will not bring those up to my mitt.
Ive always used cc cyclone in the bottom with the grit guard on top in both wash and rinse buckets. Then the bottom dirt stands still and i can rubb the washmitt on the grit guard to release the dirt. I also use one merino whool washpad for the roof, glass and hood and a microfibermitt on the lower dirtier half of the car and the back. This way i think i cant do much more to prevent swirls.
Great review! As others have stated, I have simply gone to a single bucket, many mitt wash method. I have about 10 mitts, each designated for different parts of the car, and they are used once per wash. No need to worry about dirt in the bucket, etc...
Already have the grit guard and was on the fence about detail guards model, think you answered all my questions so I thank you for that my friend. Awesome test thank you. Kurt
I use the standard grit guards, but doubled up.
that 45* angle grid is a cool idea! thanx for all the effort you put in your good videos!! :-)
Youre an outside-the-box thinker jon. Absolutely love it. Thanks
Love the close up shots with the torch light, and the methodology
gabor :) appreciate all the cool feedback over the years your a legend.
The "thin ridge" on the bottom of the CG Cyclone is called flash. It's a result of either bad tooling where there is a slight gap or its incorrect machine processing, ie over pressurized of the plastic actually blowing the tool open slightly.
I’ve been using a Grit Guard on top of the Cyclone for about 18 months now and have been quite happy with this.
Great analysis. Fitment is key as you say. On ocassion if I dont seat the guard quite right, it will float up. As far as stacking, unless they lock together seems the top guard will move or float. I supposed they can be tie wrapped together and rely on a good friction fit of the bottom guard...don't know. As another poster said below, I don't bother with two buckets. I spray the mitt with my stubby gun and ring before re-dunking. The car's been pressure pre-rinsed, foamed, pressure rinsed. By the time I do my contact wash, the majority of the heavier grime is gone so I feel good with the one bucket and rinse/ring of the mitt. A good drying towel and drying agent is just as critical of a step as well to minimize micro-marring.
I've found that the standard grit gaurd works really well in the sort of classic black builders bucket which has a very slight conical shape, this serves to wedge the grit gaurd in-place about half way down, leaving several inches below it! And it means that gaurd doesn't move when giving the mitt a good twist! So I've used that method as a rinse bucket ever since 🙂 give it a try, you might find it a nice cheap and easy little setup.
Great video as always mate 👍
I think the best test would of been to start with a glove and measure out equal sand for all 3 products to tests. Put the sand on the glove and push it up in down in the bucket to simulate washing, see which unit gobbles up all the particles and what is left floating around in the bucket. All these units like you say are designed very differently, so to see a test like this would of been more of a real-world scenario since the debris doesn't start underneath the screen when you are washing.
Interesting results. I do use the basic guard but I agree with some other comments and with one of your previous videos. Multiple mitts for different sections. Seems the safest bet.
Chris Booth I’m starting to think the same thing. Soap bucket for the towels you mentioned and a second bucket used for chucking the towels after all sides have been used then moving to clean one. Dirty towels never entering the soap bucket would allow the remaining soap to be used later if you put a lid on you bucket. Not a big deal but some of the high dollar products would be more economical if that was a concern. Brian from apex addresses that in one of his videos. Glad these guys share so much experience ! It sure helps in forming my own opinions 🤘🏼
@@inxs13 Yes, you are certainly on the right track mate! For an expansion on the 2 or 3 cloth no-redip method, please see my comment to Jon near the top of his RUclips entitled "The Best Car Soap Shampoo - 20 Product Shootout" Using a bucket with a lid is THE best way to conserve your wash media! Cheers and happy washing ! BTW . . .
To those who think this method is "over the top" . . . nope. The "harm" you do to your clear coat is NOT noticeable on a per wash basis using the old method. But it IS cumulative. It really IS time for a new car wash paradigm . . . The ONLY thing that will suffer is grit guard sales : )
I suspect the grit guard fitted with a washboard will overcome most of the negatives but of course you have to factor in the extra cost. I have a single grit guard in my wash bucket and a grit guard with a washboard fitted in my rinse bucket. I am not sure whether the one in the wash bucket is superfluous but you never get all of the dirt out so I figure it’s best to have one in the wash bucket. I like the idea of the gritguard with a washboard sitting on top of a chemical guys one. I certainly feel that any of them is worth having rather than not having one at all. One negative of a tight fit of course is that you will have debris stacking up at the sides rather than falling to the bottom of the bucket were it a bit more loose
The ridges on the CG dirt cyclone are for scrubbing your mitt on them.
I use a dirtlock stacked with a grit guard and a washboard in the rinse bucket, the grit guards have zip ties to have them fit snug.
Nice job as always. I currently using the two buck method, with 3 inserts in the rinse (cyclone on bottom and grit guard on top, with the wash board attachment) and 1 in the wash bucket. However, I'm currently purchasing many wash mitts to eventually have enough to move to the no bucket or a least one bucket method. I live in two story apartment and carrying all that water and buckets up and down is a pain every week.
Another great shoot out review Jon! I have inexpensive generic debris guards that I got from the local car parts store here in Canada (Canadian Tire) that I have in the bottom of my buckets, then I stack the actual Grit Guard on top of those. I wanted to keep the mit as far away from the bottom as possible. I do like the vacuum effect of the Turbine Guards so I'm going to pick up a couple and try them this spring. Thanks again for a GREAT review! Roll on Spring!!!
Im just not sure about that turbine effect :) at least I cant seem to like see like some sort of draw of clean water down as a result of pumping. but like my ability to measure it isnt great,, so jurys out on that part of the product claim at least for me. but I just simply like the DG design generally.
@@ForensicDetailing I watched their video a few times and it seems as if the ...for lack of a better word...sucking effect happens as you draw the mit up after the initial downwards press. I guess I'll have to see come spring how it goes.
Thanks again mate!
Personally, I use a cyclone in both wash and rinse buckets, and I recently put the detail guardz product on top of the cyclone in my wash solution bucket. I had the same intuition that the cyclone kept the dirt down the best but also let the least through. The regular grit guard seemed way too open to me. So I figured this particular combo would work well. I have clear buckets and can confirm in real wash scenarios that the combo is superior to either on their own.
Ultimately, whether you use the grit guards and two bucket method or single bucket with multiple mitts, you can still introduce marring either way if you're making contact with the paint and it's not perfectly clean. At the end of the day, minimizing that marring is the key. Grit guards are useful products for those using the two bucket method.
Multiple mitts, multiple buckets, stacked grit guards in each bucket.
How much grit, filth and corruption are you guys subjecting your mitts and wash water to?
If you follow a good regimen of removing the dirt and grit with a foam cannon, and pressure washer pre-clean, the only thing really left on the car to remove with the mitt is the grime.
One mitt, two buckets, and your choice of grit guard in the wash bucket just in case, and you should be 99.9% free of potential scratching.
I let my buckets settle until I have finished drying the car, just to see what dirt did accumulate at the bottom, and there is virtually nothing every time, in each bucket. Tells me the system is working.
Have been doing this for several years and my car's finish is perfect still.
No need to complicate everything.
Great channel.
I enjoy your product reviews.
Good comparison. I've found the Cyclone needs you to swirl your water round. If you do that, you can see the grit getting drawn down the nozzles & under the guard.
Thorough pre-rinse with pressure washer
2 buckets. Grid guard in both.
Wash board in rinse bucket.
1-2 mitts for upper panels/upper half.
1-2 mitts for lower panels/lower half.
Single use sponges for under carriage, wheels and wheel arches.
Use a good soap.
Wash top to bottom and front to back.
Just buy more mitts and pick up a new one instead of rinsing and reusing. This is the best option for home users washing 1-2 cars.
Great video, My only question is, is all dirt created equal? Sand and soil may behave very differently. Sand will stay consistent while soil will break down. It might be worth re-running the tests using soil (i.e., dirt). My observation of using the CG and the original grit guard is less murky water with the CGs. When I empty the bucket both seem to do a fine job keeping the dirt below them and not floating in the water or stuck to the sides of the bucket.
yer fair play good point kind of touched on this in the video. I just cant see whats going on if I use dirt lots of it disolves like you say you get brown water all round. So this is kind of using fine sand as a simulation only.
@@ForensicDetailing Could you use a light meter to determine which is cleaner based on opacity? Put a fixed light on one side and measure the received light on the other using a mitt dirtied, dunked and cleaned and removed say a dozen times? Then filter the water and measure how much was in suspension and how much was trapped? A lot of work I know. Just the Engineer in me coming out :) PS - Actually, that might be an interesting way to test the value of ONR, no?
sounds cool, no idea if it could work but its the sort of fun thing thats worth trying. my engineering skillz are useless though lol :)
@@ForensicDetailing Don't sell yourself short Jon! You're a great practical Engineer! I am really curious about seeing ONR pull dirt to the bottom as they claim. I think I might have to get myself one of those clear buckets.
@@Big_Old_Dog excell detailing supply sell them if you want. I bought one for testing and its coming in handy for sure.
Now THIS is what I am talking about. Thanks bro!!
3-4 good mitts, one per panel, one bucket no grit guard ever needed.
This is the correct method.
Can they fit in regular bucket, what are the proprtions of the grit guards
Always great video Jon, that’s really nice that you take time to do some comparaisons. As some mention, i never used 2 bucket method and I use a 3 gallon bucket. I just rinse my mith with the hose, I use less water in that way.
Same here. One mitt that's rinsed with the hose after each panel. Sometimes twice for the rear if it's very dirty and I've never seen dirt sediments in the bucket. Using the flat setting of the hose attachment for a stronger spray and wider coverage, the dirt quickly sprays right off.
@@erik9108 Lol same as me !! Flat setting on the hose ! Great to see I’m not the only one doing that :-)
The Chem Guy cyclone has the issue of plastic flashing covering the holes on the underside. A flame or heat gun will melt the flashing back and open the holes all uniformly.
A better design would be to have the flats on the cyclone guard all rounded upward. That way there are no spots for the grit to land without it just sliding into the little cones.
Best review on these to date and I think it is definitive as it gets. Big thumbs up!
legend cheers marios :)
great video to prove why NOT to buy into the two bucket grit guard system. Spent the money on multiple mitts and never ever put them back into the soap bucket and you will never run in to cross contamination. All that said love the clear bucket and thanks for another great informative video.
ive been thinking about getting the detail guardz version to replace my grit guards so this was super helpful. thanks for another great video Jon
I did and I am happy with the change
What's the most effective stack for ghost buckets? Two Chemical Guys Cyclone and the washboard? Maybe two turbines or maybe two grit guards. Perhaps a mix of brands such as cyclone at the base (best at preventing dirt coming up), turbine in the middle (for tight fit) and washboard on the top (probably attached using cable ties if it's not compatible). Perhaps cutting a cyclone to make a washboard would be good. Any thoughts?
yo Mihcael mate. Its a bit overkill mate... I would say just lob a detail guard in them.. combo'ing these things up is too hardcore..
I use The Big Red Sponge with ONR and have a Cyclone in the bottom and I think that's a killer-combo for rinseless washes. I never scrub the Sponge against the Cyclone because that is not needed.
Can always rely on you Jon to come up with original ideas for product test and comparisons. I just have the original grit guards. Two in my rinse bucket and one in my wash bucket. They do the job really well. If I needed new ones I think I’d try the cyclones but doubt that will ever happen as the originals last forever!
thanks chris appreciate it mate. I think thats like the best thing is like to try the other ones the next time you need to upgrade. althoguh these things seem to last a lifetime :)
im using the chemical guys cyclone grit guard in the bottom of all my 3 wash buckets with the standard grit guard on top of it for exstra protection. I have only the washboard in my rinse bucket and yes they are exspensive but they pretty much last forever as long as you dont try to destroy them and treat them like garbage that is
How does the grit guard on top of the cyclone grit guard with the washboard in the rinse bucket seem to be working for you?
@@suzannecharest2925 aloooot better than just the normal grit guard so i would recommend using them this way
another great comparison and product review Jon.
Jon do you have a link for the wash buckets you use ( not the clear one) because I've got the turbine grit guard and it just floats in my buckets. Thanks
You got the rubber grips on them? If not, the store you purchased from will give them to you free of charge and should have included them into the shipment. I had the same problem, ordered another one couple days ago and already came with them installed.
Stanley Fleire yes I've got them but it still floats
Looking at the holes on the chemical guys guard makes me feel uneasy for some reason.
Trypophobia, my dude.
The Detail Guardz Dirt Lock was the only one that had no debris floating about when you were pumping your mitt @6:30, watch how it pushes the water and sand down but nothing up. How did that one lose? :O Just bought one from In2Detailing to replace my current guards
Jamie, how do you like the Detail Guardz Dirt Lock? I just ordered 2 and am excited to try them!
Did you ever review AutoGlym's Red grit pad that fits the bottom of their twin bucket wash system? It is like a huge plastic scourer that supposedly traps dirt in its plastic spaghetti type surface.
first I heard of it matt
I use regular grit guards but they don’t tend to fit exactly right in the bucket as he showed anyone know if that will affect rinsing the wash mit will it bring back up the dirt if it’s doesn’t fit tight by a little having a little space in the side of the grit guard when it’s placed
I find the one bucket method using the hose pipe to rinse my wash mitt after each panel works very well especially with ONR added to my Bilt Hamber shampoo.
Great review though👍👍
works great in the summar which your less reliant on the pressure washer and heavier films of dirt perhaps are less in play. I still do that on the golf. hose, bucket with some BH and ONR and give the car a very quick clean rinsing out the pad with the hose and also using the hose to keep the car cool and not dry out.
Bilt hamber shampoo do you like it?
@@mickperry6248 yer i do mick, it cleans really really well, good value, suds up if you want it to.. have a watch of the "best shampoo" shootout video on the channel where we compare 20.. most automotive car soaps nowadays are superb, cost for wash became one of the most important things for me in that test.
What ratio are you using the recommend ratio on the bottle I don't find is enough
Unless it's just me reminds me of autoglym body shampoo
Great video! I have recently switched to the multi Mitt method so I will just keep my standard grit guard.
Where you get the clear bucket
Have you considered stacking, an original grit guard (with washboard) on-top of the turbo grit guard?
So it falls through the original grit guard easiest but then after a few dunks of the mitt will agitate it down through the turbo and lock it better down there and keep the mitt away from the dirt
thats what I do now, but like only because I have them.. normally I would just by one type I think but other guys do exactly what you said.
Thank you Jon for always thinking out of the box or should I say bucket.
Can you rerun this experiment using the two bucket method with car soap. I sure you would see the residual dirt being trapped in the soap suds on both buckets causing the mitt to mar or micro scratch your car's clear coat.
You can always spray off your mitt after the rinse bucket before going back to the car soap bucket.
Instead of the Grit Guard Washboard you can purchase for $3 a Wooster small or large plastic paint can roller grid.
I'll stay using the one bucket method with seven mitts.
one of my patrons suggested to test with car soap. So I did put some into the ghost bucket but it didnt really effect anything.. because its just sand. It wouldnt have an impact on the test criteria I was looking at in this test. but would sort of help to break down real dirt in a normal bucket and effect things perhaps.
So, all in all, the best combination would be to stack the Grit Guard on top of the Cyclone Dirttrap!
Great video thank you for this information!
Nice test! 👍🏻 Where did you get that transparent bucket? Need one for my test for my German community! 😊
hey there, excell detailing supplies in the UK.. nick smeaton ghost bucket its called
@@ForensicDetailing Thans a lot! :)
The original grit guard with the add on scrubber piece is the combo that I like. I actually do like the loose fit as I can remove it easily for cleaning of the bucket and finding of the guard. Too tight of a fit makes it a pain to remove. Using these guards in a two bucket method a person can really see the results as I have seen the rinse bucket very dirty and the soap bucket still clean water at the end of the wash
i think that tight fit could be the most important thing you could do though, like rollo said in my facebook page. without the tight fit, if that grit guard moves around the fins actually push the dirt all over the place. I think Im gonna look to get some rubber/foam adhesive like the DG uses to brace mine. although Im not sure for me jsut cleaning my car at home its gonna be a huge factor.. like when I go into contact wash the red peril its very very clean anything because I can get so much off with like greenstar or autofoam plus a blast with pressure washer if need be.
Maybe some rubber wedges (4 or 5) to take up the gap between the grit guard and the bucket sides?
I've got mine from AliExpress they look exactly like the chemical guys one. I'm thinking I should look there too find ones that look like the grit guards ones.
Hi John, on the subject of scratch prevention... does your M140 have hard paint? I only ask as a few months back I picked up a new Mini cooper company car and the paint is like butter, breathe on it and it shows up wide hologram swirl marks, even with VERY careful washing, 3 bucket method and applying no pressure at all, and using new/clean microfibers when drying... even patting the surface dry. Only ever applied a coating of Fusso when it was new, I bet buffing off even caused scratching, even with high pile microfibers... driving me insane.
Using the Sealey inspection torch at night shows up loads of swirls. (Doesn't help that it's black)
Can I expect my new 1 series to be more durable? (Also black)
Im pretty sure my 140 has hard paint. Ive not hit it with a heavy compound yet though.. but the paint on regs white 140 was really really hard. the paint on the 135 was nice, it was hard but it was really easy to polish, just nice to work with, I prefer it when the paints rock hard. I have lots of work to do on this 140 its got all sort of marks on it. Im just waiting for like spring, its really too cold to apply the coating now in my garage. it suxs when you have mega soft paint, really does. Ive never ever polished a mini so not sure.. but coatings can help when you have soft paint that your struggling to maintain, obviously doesnt turn it bullet proof but ive suggested them to a fair few guys having wash problems and they were really happy with the improvement after the coating with wash related marring.
TBH i still prefer the one bucket and spray gun method i watched you demonstrate, seems safer than rinsing my wash mitt in a bucket that soon turns dirty.
Here in Denmark we dont get the rubber pads on the dirtlock, it dont sit tightly against the bucket
get onto detail guardz and/or your suppliers casper let them know you want them and it will happen. the companies that sell them will also want people to be happy with them rather than not happy. I think those rubber like foot sticker things are important.
Forensic Detailing Channel Sounds like a good idea, thanks
Were did tou get those transperant buckets?
ghost buckets available from excell detailing supplies in the UK jeffrey
Check restaurant supply stores as well. There are many shapes and sizes of clear buckets to choose from. Plus most food containers have measurement marks on the sides. They're not as durable as a true wash bucket though.
Search for "Cambro 18qt"
part# RFSCW18135.
@@SecretSauceyjuice 👍I'm in the food service industry and fortunately (or maybe unfortunately 😂) I have access to anything I could need
Ok thanks guys!
Good review Jon, I use the double stack Grit Guard in my buckets with the washboard in the rinse bucket. If the Detail Guard also had a washboard attachment they’d be on to a winner. In the mean time I’ll be sticking with the Grit Guard.
The first and only grit guard I've tried is the chemical guys cyclone. I use it with their white bucket. It sits a bit tight in the bucket and it's a little annoying removing it from the bucket after use as there's no grip. To be honest I think it does work. I can easily see the black dirt after removing the grit guard over the white bucket. Slim's detailing sell a few slightly damaged ones in their store for cheap
can be a bit hard getting your fingers into the bigger 4 cones in the middle for sure to get them out.
Zain K I use a plastic tie to pull it out.
@@CAPTJ696 that's a good shout 👍
Thanks for the video. One suggestion is to dab your mitt up and down and scruff it with your other hand nearer to the top of the bucket. Try to stay away from the dirt in the bottom and other dirt trying to find it's way to the bottom.
I just like the little washboard thing but yer.. the washboard doesnt work great with say a long shaggy wool mitt. works great with the microfiber madness pad though. can use your hand like you say. cheers mate
I use the original grit guard and have never had a problem.
In addition, I've tried Autoglym's new drying cloth, had it a couple of weeks. I'll definitely be getting a couple more.
I also tried Autoglym 's Polar Seal today, I applied it after using their Polar Blast on a new vehicle with Super Resin and Ultra HD Gloss. Looking forward to seeing how it performs.
I rub my wash mitt against the grit guard and squeeze is out before dipping into the wash bucket.
For some reason, my wash bucket ends up with more grit in the bottom than my rinse bucket!
I'm going to try not rubbing the mitt against the guard next time and see if that helps.
Also, did you consider stacking the standard grit guard or the black guard over the chemical guys one?
Ah... my last point was answered. I commented too soon! Haha
Good video mate, well done!
You could stack a cyclone on the bottom, and on top a classic grit guard, this way dirt wouldn't go up because of cyclone guard, but will go down through classic grit guard,would be interesting to see if this works
Thanks for posting this. I use the Chemguys specifically because it seemed the best design to trap dirt. Now I'm going to plonk a grit or detail guard on top as well :)
I started double stacking the original GG, and I think it helps a bit. Use their buckets now perfect fit.
A battery powered small pump that attaches to the top of the bucket......a draw straw that sits below the grit guard.
Very little suction/gpm flow rate, the draw straw sucks out the spent/dirty water......An outlet port on the pump drips out the spent water.
did you put that dirt underneath it? because i have a hard time believing dirt falls through easy
If I didn’t already have a grit guard, this video is a helpful review. But I use two buckets 4 grit guards(2 in each bucket) n the black mit scrub thing in the rinse bucket. So possibly over kill but it works for me n I have no fear of large dirt particles get back on to the car. Keep up the great videos n hard work John.
The normal grit guard is horrible for places like Dubai, the issue is with the fine sand grains resurfacing upon agitation. However, doubling / stacking them up will work flawlessly.
Great to see these visually tested so well. However, I still use your one bucket wash! I love simply spraying the guck out of the mitt between passes - seems to be much better than bunging the mitt back into increasingly dirty water! I use a 97p B&Q bucket with good car soap, a small splash of ONR, cheap Chinese short hair mitt and the Hozelock multi spray device. I use my 20L bucckets for storing various car and wheel wash tools for easy of carrying round the car ...
man its cool to see peeps using that. a lot of times in the summer I still just quickly grab a bucket and soap and mitt throw some onr in there and some soap and go round the car with the hose in one hand and the mitt in the other.. little rinse first and away and Im round the car in not much time. but I guess its not really that kind of credible, its like a good quick wash method i think.. but Ive always felt its safe enough and quick.
@@ForensicDetailing I think it IS credible! Wash the bits out onto the driveway. The Gary Deane method (multiple cloths) is also very credible but results in many more cloths to wash! I use your method on a not too dirty car, which often means it follows on from a snow foam.
Interesting Video Jon . I use the standard grit guard in both my wash and rinse buckets and they seem to do the job great!! I would say my wash mitt never gets below half way down the bucket though I rinse it out with my hands near the surface then dip it into the wash bucket again only near the top. I am hoping before I return any heavy dirt has long sank to the bottom and would not get back into my Mitt. That's just the way i do it. I am hoping my pre contact wash procedure is good enough to remove the harmful big dirt bits.
Cyclone at the bottom of the bucket with a regular grit guard on top..... I call it the 2 guard method ;)
So what you're saying is I should have a chemicals guys at the bottom and a regular one at the top? Love it mate.
you could do yer if you dig the whole filter thing from these products. Ive heard peeps say thats what they use, I think some peeps will laugh though.. you can see the broad spectrum of opinions of the whole grit guard thing in the comments some dont use them, some get a lot of value from them.
Is there anywhere I can ask Jon a question?
John, I'm wanting to invest in a new bucket and grit guard. Do you have a recommendation of a bucket and grit guard which fit well together?
Our car is getting ceramic coated so is it best to have two buckets or just the one with grit guard?
i use dooka buckets. in this video you can see how the 3 guards mount into my dooka buckets. they are slightley too big for the patent grit guards not tight fit so you get movcement
So the ideal setup would be to layer it. Put chemical guys on the bottom and put a grit guard on top with it's add-on. Awesome I will try that. :)
I stack my grit guard over the vortex. My thought is the dirt easily drops through the top grit guard works it’s way through the vortex and then gets locked under. Shrug.
So glad the grit gard came out in 1st. I've been using Meguiars grit gards as I got 2 free when I bought 2 Meguiars buckets. I tend to have the top 1 at an angle so I can scrub my mitt better.
Great video, I personally use the cg one as a base and the grit guard on top. I find it's just lowering the risk and for not a big expense. The cg guards were on offer for 6.50 at one stage and I got my grit guard for 7. So for 13.50 its not breaking the bank and helping toward a safer wash. Great work jon
I also add a couple of mitts just to reduce risk further
@@PolishedandWaxed1 thanks man, Id love to get your take on that DG one. damn tough to rank these it really depends on personal criteria. so often the comments give a good broad representation of what other people make of this and this one is as divided as all of them :) the thing I like is we have credible options to explore that are unique and designed to be different.
For overall performance, is it better the grit guard or cyclone?
i would probably do with the detail guards if money is no object
@@ForensicDetailing basic guard vs the turbine?
haha! just had a good laugh at 16:22 It's like you looked at it and didn't know what it was for the first time haha!
Im getting old man :( I had to do lots of retakes because I couldnt remember what each of the products were called. like kept calling one the vortex and the other one the hurrican or tornado. brain fade.
Good video. Byt the CG cyclone thingy, isnt it supposed to work better when rubbing over tge guard in a circular fashion, making many small cyclones in the guard, pulling the dirt down and under?
Would be cool to see a comparison with double guards also. I am using a Cyclone in the bottom and a GritGuard with the mitt accessorie on top now myself.
possibly joakim... decent point. short answer is I dont know I didnt test that. gut instinct says hmmm.. but like really dont know.
Great review. Visuals clearly showed the flow of grit.
BTW have you done a video on washing with cold, warm or hot water? I've always used hot but I wonder if I I'm washing away the polymer coating on my car?
it wont make too much difference rixter. hot water does help breakdown grease a bit but car panels generally are things which dont need like potent chems to clean back.
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks
Nice video Jon. As crazy as may sound i've never even considered using the 2 bucket method with grid guards. I just use the one bucket and invested in 8 mits that I just put aside after using. If need to use one of them again, I'll just rinse it straight under the hose. Not all people are as crazy as I am of course 😉
I'm in the same frame of mind. A dirty mitt never touches the vehicle again. More mitts less buckets and gadgets 👍
Honestly, I still haven’t gotten on board with the grit guards because if you are doing a proper pre wash there shouldn’t be that much or that heavy of debris left over.
Out of interest what about the standard grit guard with the 45 degree angle one added on top of it
I talk about this in the video gez
@@ForensicDetailing yea sorry for missing that bit. I had a look again. Anything is better than nothing. Nice to see someone do a decent test on them all
Great demo Jon just to ask you where did you get the clear bucket from cheers
With the thought that has went into these guards I think they should have paid attention to redesigning the bucket. Just make a bucket that has a pump with a filter.
A trick by Detail kegs, cut the outer ring off a regular grit guard and sit a DG On top. Best of both worlds.
good vid mate, if i was to use gritguards i would indeed put the CG one on the bottem and the other one on top of it, but tbh i stepped away from even using 2 buckets and i tell you why: for my own cars i dont use a pressure washer i just use a garden hose and one of those attatchments that has a showerstance, i use one bucket and i start by doing half of the bonnit with one side of the mitt and then flip it over and do the other half, then i put the mitt on one of the windows and rinse it out thoughourly because it opens up the fibers and the dirt just rinses away so my mitt is clean when i dunk it in the washbucket. for cars at my work i do use a pressure washer but still with one bucket, yes it probaply causes some micromarring but i cant see them with the naked eye, and the reality is the cars that i wash on my work have to be polished anyway so any microscratches that might have been put in will get polished out anyway so i dont really care about it
Good vid Jon 👍🏼 I think these videos are always good as it not so much about the products necessarily but the insight is for the way we should use these products, so we thank you for that. After years of cleaning You’ve made me realise that actually one shouldn’t be wiping the wash mitt down the bottom. Bloody good ! I’ve doubled up on the grit guard for a while now and I think it works better for sure. 👍🏼
thx max. Its hard to walk this line, doing this is like a tightrope. its also one of the reasons the comments sections are so damn usefull because its like a feed of other good advice and perspectives
Forensic Detailing Channel Totally agree Jon... you’re a braver man than me... 👍🏼
I use one bucket with the standard grit and 8 washing mitts
Nice video and review but I think It's pretty clear that you might have mixed up the Dirt Lock with the Chemical Guys unit. If you look at the footage from chemical guys dirt trap @5:59 - you can see the dirt wants to come up when you pull up your glove, but does not move down. If you look at the footage from the Dirt Lock @6:29, you can see it being shot down to the bottom and doesn't even flinch to come back up.
So what it's an extra $5 for a Dirt Lock, the bloody thing actually works and doesn't move around in my bucket. I can confirm as I have all 3 and done similar tests and is definitely the best IMO. None are perfect, but certainly night and day difference by using a Dirt Lock compared to others... Anyways, keep on rocking and pumping out more videos!
I spent about 2 hours playing around with the 3 products. pumping up and down waving around , swiping mitt over guard making little notes. I just grabbed the bits of footage that try and demo it, but its very hard to film it and get the light and focus right. pretty sure though when dirt is below the guard the CG one was prett damn cool, but the DG one is a lot better than the GG. fitment is critical yes. its very subjective and any other person could come to different conclusions and the results could change by just altering like the weighting of criteria because to some peeps price difference is irrellevent. but to other peeps they will go nuts that a moulded plastic product is 15 quid. so I just try and run it fair and explain how I do it. but if you read all the comments below as well you get a good idea to what people generally feel as a broader spectrum.
Detail Guardz unit is king!