Wow man , i used to think motogadget was hell but the more i watch videos like yours the more I understand and now i think i can also do it , thank you man 🙏🏼
For a fully EMI-proof protocol, CAN bus is a good solution. Due to the low and high signals being mirror images of each other, any interference causes an equal change to the signal voltages and thus negate each other. The signal wires can also be shielded. It's also immune to cross-talk. It requires two signal wires. It is more suited to cars, automation and heavy machinery though, due to the virtually infinite amount of nodes you can attach to it. You can also attach as many listeners as you like.
This is the reason I'm going to get all my stuff from you guys. Thanks for making the video, it helps a lot with my Ducati project. Keep 'em coming. Would love to see install and comparison on that led headlight I've been eyeing.
For anyone wondering the way the system works is say your blinker calls for a three ohms signal the m button puts out that signal corresponding for blinkers. Then for the horn it’s five ohm and so on and so forth. Each different button or function requires a different ohm output that the M unit registers
Thank you. I'm trying to wrap my head around it ahead of time for my cb750 chopper build. I'm starting from scratch no factory harness just engine and frame. That's actually really neat and explains why the m button makes the m unit installs so much easier on the older Hondas. You usually have to do a killswitch work around due to lack of ground coming from the key switch. So if I'm understanding correctly by using the m button it converts it to a digital signal so to speak and can then register my ohms which is continuity (?) And let me use the m unit correctly and more simply. I'm not a electrician and I'm definitely in slightly over my head but that's how you learn and grow. I've still got a long way to go as I'm just now getting the engine back in shape. But I'm trying to wrap my head around this stuff now so I'm not throwing wrenches at the wall of my garage again like I did when I cracked into my honda shadow control cluster thinking a 3 button switch and throttle swap would be a 15 minute job. Took my 15 minutes to figure out what I was even looking at with the diagrams. I'm sure it'll all be a cake walk after I rewire the cb750.
Hi you guys. Love your videos. Very good information. Have you ever considered making a video about Wiring the m-button in the handlebar? searched everywhere with no result. My project by the way is a 82 XS 1100. Thanks again.
it would be awesome to have the equivalent for the outputs as well, so i.e. one "button" for the front and one for the back to which the lights, indicators, etc. are connected to, to limit the amount of cabling that needs to go to the front/back of the bike even more..
For the brake switch.. I have a banjo bolt brake sensor with two wires. One wire from sensor goes to purple brake wire off m-button? and the other wire can be spliced to the black ground wire off the m-button?
Going to install one of these on an electric bike in terms of emi should there be any issue with that don't know if electric motor it's a hub motor so it's going to be far away but the battery will be right next to it don't know if I need that makes an emi
I saw somewhere that the MButton doesn't work with the first gen MUnit - but your demonstration clearly shows it works…before I order, can you confirm please.
The m.Button does work with the V.2 m.Unit. If the goal is an easier install and more reliable electrical system I would run wires directly from the switches. Motogadget makes some of the best quality components available but after having spent many years working with Motogadget products I wouldn't say that the m.button provides enough advantage to off set it's potential problems. If you're building a show bike and all of the wiring is hidden with in the m.Button would help quite a bit. It's biggest setbacks would be that it is capable of permanent mechanical failure that can only be diagnosed by removing it from the system. and it is vulnerable to RFI from the ignition system, the results of which are random phantom switch activations and resonant RPMs. -Berry
There's no delay but to be perfectly honest this video is old and we've changed course on our feelings about the m.Button. This is a companion component to the m.Unit which is great, but it's not at all difficult to run a hand full of 22awg or smaller wires through your bars and install them into the prelabeled inputs on the m.Unit. After years of answering technical support about this product, we've determined that it's overhyped and solves an imaginary problem while introducing a high probability for issues that are difficult to diagnose when they occur.
Hi Stefan, Thanks for the great vids on m-unit blue. Unfortunately, I just ordered the mo-button for my m-blue before reading your comments regarding the mo-button being "overhyped". Can the mo-button even be used on my 1972 Triumph T120V Bonneville with my stock switches or do I need to install a modern set like the m-switch mini in your vid? Thanks.
The Mo-Button cannot be used with any stock switches that work off of a power (12v) signal, it will only work with switches that work off of ground signals. The Mo-Unit works the same way, it will only work with momentary switches providing a ground signal to the unit itself. Thanks!
So just to be clear, the M-Button is like a signal transposer, like an A/D converter in a studio recording setup (analog -> Digital), taking a current and turning it into a data signal. Which is to say, IT IS NOT A BUTTON at all.... This was confusing to me until I watched this video.
Exactly. It takes the signals from the buttons and communicates those to the m-Unit. It doesn't matter what type of switches are connected, it is a straight pass through of information, and the configuration on the m-Unit determines how the buttons work.
If this question in regards to the m.Unit the answer is yes, you can power a 12V radiator with an m.Unit. There are two 15 amp AUX outputs available. It might be worth mentioning though that the m.Unit does require 12V DC current and a battery. If your CRM is generating un-rectified AC current the first order of business is determining if and how you can turn that into regulated/rectified DC with a battery. If that's possible someone's surely done it and documented it on the web. -Jeff
Hi Stefan, I am looking at buying the m-unit and m-button. Am I able to use the typical standard bar controls / switches, or do you need aftermarket switches? Thanks Paul
Hi, You can use standard latching switches after doing some significant modification but truth be told, the user experience is terrible. The m.Unit manages the controls in an entirely different way than the old system and it's not really compatible with latching switches. So you can use them but it's just a bandaid and not pleasant in my experience. Also, DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON AN M.BUTTON. You don't need it, it doesn't actually make anything about your install easier and they can break so you're just adding one more variable into your system that can fail which is counter to our philosophy behind m.Unit installations.
Its really an impressive little thing thanks for the video it's very educational. One question though. if it's only one wire going from the handlebar,where do they recommend to connect the ground? The handlebars? Thanks again!
+bigmac throttlebody That's right, motogadget recommends grounding through the handlebars. And if you are using their m-Switches they include a tiny little ring terminal that you can use to connect a ground to the aluminum switch housing. This configuration gives you a path to ground that goes through the housing, through the bars, through the bar clamps, through the triple, through the stem, through the bearings, and FINALLY the frame. This will work, but we prefer to run a dedicated ground wire to the handlebar controls. It does mean you have two wires going to the bars, but that seems like a small price to pay for improved reliability and certainty about the ground connection.
"When your wiring your bike please do a better job" ahw man that's literally how i put my right side switch back together. 3m tape makes me the electrician i ain't. Lol I'll fix it eventually
The one downside with this device is you cannot use a separate configure button on the M-unit while this is hooked up. The reason I say this is a downside is you cannot turn the alarm function on and off or access any of the configuration menus with the M-button and a separate configure button hooked up at the same time. You would think that you could use one of the buttons hooked up to the M-button but none of them will access the configure menu while the M-unit is powered on. Also it's a total pain in the ass trying to get this inside a set of handlebars. It was almost worse trying to get it out of my handlebars after I decided to run separate wires instead. After installing this and removing it I decided you really aren't saving anything more than a couple of ounces of extra wire that you have to run. I guess you could remove the M-button wire from the configure terminal each time you wanted to change something but felt it really wasn't worth the headache. Not exactly something I want to do if I ride my bike somewhere and want to turn the alarm on. Don't get me wrong it's a cool product but not worth it in my opinion
I wondered if that was the case, seems a bit of a pain. I guess you could have a hidden switch somewhere to toggle between the wire from the m button and another auxiliary.
+Brad Castellano You can run two wires into the configure port although you would need a toggle switch of some sort wired in line on the m-blaze wire to cut power to that when you want to use the configure function on the m-unit. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks for the videos guys ... But as I understand If one has m-button with m-blue, breakout box A is not necessary anymore? m-button will do the magic ? this is my first build so I'm confuuuused
@Kombosto No worries. The m.Button and Breakout Box are completely for unrelated applications. The m.Button turns the controls inputs into digital signals sent to the m.Unit, while the Breakout Box turns your motorcycle sensors electrical signals into digital inputs so that the Motoscope Pro gauge can interpret them. Hope that helps, -Berry
The m-Button works with any type of switches, including OEM style switches. The m-Button is just a converter that sends the signals via a single cable, there is no logic or control happening with the m-Button. The m-Unit is what interprets the signals from the m-Button, and you will need to configure menu 5 to match the type of switches you are using. If you are using stock switches you will need to ensure the switches are connected so they give a ground referenced signal. Most OEM switches are setup for sending +12v signals, but reviewing the wire diagram you should be able to make the needed changes.
Hey guys. I have a quick question I am struggling with. I am wiring my custom bike with an M-Unt and M button. As it is kick start only, do I need to do anything with the starter cable from the M button?
The m.Button isn't really designed for a kick only bike. To add a kill function you could either wire this button outside of the m.Unit or double tap the start button to kill it like an electric start bike.
Really it’s a simple single cheap controller that the rats nest of wires attach to… about $2. As neat as this seems it introduces complications to the wiring beyond easily field diagnostics along the roadside, and it still needs ground and power wires… so it’s not one wire just the comm signal wire going to the M-gadget. The hassle of making a bundle of hidden switch wires to it and stashing that in the handle bars is just crude or more so than simply running a bundle of individual control wires direct from the switches … probably is easier… and it is still digital control with low power control wires. A neat bundle 12v low power 20-22-24 gauge wires has the advantage over the single 22 awg wire is some mechanical robustness and less electrical interference issues… and easier to put shielding sleeve over the bundle and make ground connection. NOW hear’s an idea run the bundled cables to the m-Button using a nearby small connector or a terminal stop for the control switch wires connections then you have trouble shooting access to the switch wiring … this mounted next to the m-gadget… and m- button then that tiny fragile single wire is protected and you have much less complication and aggravation hiding all the mess of switch wires to m-button… As alternative do this near the handle bar but you still have a single fragile wire run… that you need to bundle like a loom and shielding protect.
This only works as an additional component to an m.Unit installation, hence a custom harness. Just about every question one might ask about these is covered in the the Tech Articles page of our website.
Hi there, I just found your channel and I like what you have so far! I have a question on this and the m-unit. Do you have to have them m-button when installing an m-unit, or can it be wired directly?
The m-Button is not necessary when installing an m-Unit. The majority of the installs we do will have the m-Switch mini's connected directly to the m-Unit., but with builds where there is absolutely minimal wiring and everything is routed internally the m-Button can be useful for simplifying the handlebar wiring.
Hello there, I have m-Unit, m Button and m-Switch. I have connect the m-Unit with the m-Button with one cable (config) from I have connect the red cables from m-Buttons with horn , lights etc . Can I connect ALL BLACK CABLES from m-Switch to the GROUND of m-Button (because the space inside the handlebar is too small),??? Last I have connect the ground of battery ONLY with the ground of m-Unit. Question is this right or have I made any mistake?? Thank you
The grounds from the m-Switch and the m-Button can be spliced in any way that is convenient for packaging. The important part is just that they all have a secure connection to ground. That means if you are splicing all the wires inside the handlebars and then grounding to the handlebars, then you need to also make sure the handlebars have a path to ground. Sometimes the powdercoat or anodizing, or paint will cause there to be no connection between the bars and the frame.
Yes both will work on your bike. However, as I recall that bike has clip on handlebars and that make the m-Button a pain to install since you need to get wires from both bars to connect to the m-Button. I'd suggest just running the control switches directly to the m-Unit.
Hi Stephen I mounted a Motogadget M-unit v.2, the m-Button connected to two 3ways m-Switch on my Guzzi cafe-racer, both connected to a dedicated ground wire. My problem is that sometimes, the right turn light (led rizoma) starts with no input (engine ON or OFF) and the worse thing: sometimes the start button cut off the electricity, switching-off the engine during cruise (probably works as kill switch function). I have ck the integrity of all wires and they seem to be OK. I have changed the 2 buttons on right m-Switch but the problem do not disappeared. On your opinion the m-Button could be faulty? Have you ever noticed about this problem? Many thanks Stefano
Stefano - This sounds like an issue with electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI) created by the ignition system. This issue happens on some builds but there is no clear cause, most bikes work, a few don't. There are two solutions to the problem, first you could eliminate the m-Button and route the wires from the switches directly to the m-Unit. Or you can try to control the EMI / RFI, using suppression core spark plug wires like the ones we sell. You can also try resistor spark plugs, and spark plug caps. We have had some customers try to fix the issue by shielding the green config wire from the m-Button, but this has not been effective. If you run into more problems, send an email to techsupport@revivalcycles.com and we can get into more details.
I don't know if they check this all the time but they do respond to email: techsupport@revivalcycles.com. I've had great interactions with them remotely and in person (great shop if you get a chance to swing by!).
Guess you get a lot of "too good to be trues". With the m Button do you still obviate the need for fuses? Previous comment says because it uses the config slot you can't config the unit. Can you config it and then remove the config button and the unit remembers?
Yes the m-Button does not require any fuses, and the m-Unit still handles all the power distribution. There are still a couple fuses needed in the system, main fuse to protect battery from charging system failure, and low amp fuses for the gauge if you are using motogadget gauges. Also, the configuration on the m-Unit only needs to be set once, and for that reason we do not permanently install config buttons for the m-Unit. The process is usually to get everything installed, then configure the m-Unit to match your preferences, and then connect the m-Button to the config input. Should be good to go after that. Realistically, you could configure the m-Unit before even starting the install just using a battery for temporary power on the bench, it stores the settings in memory even when power is removed.
The headlight wiring and controls are addressed in the m-Unit manual on the bottom of page 4 and top of page 5. motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
magic and witchcraft is probably a simple DS2408 chip that costs about 5 euro and is being epoxied in a tube section and labeled and sold 10x more expensive. It is funny how small business like Motogadget tries to make the money for a living... and sad in the same time....
![NLE Choppa - Or What ft. 41 (Orchestra Mix) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/biOFASEgSOM/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow man , i used to think motogadget was hell but the more i watch videos like yours the more I understand and now i think i can also do it , thank you man 🙏🏼
For a fully EMI-proof protocol, CAN bus is a good solution. Due to the low and high signals being mirror images of each other, any interference causes an equal change to the signal voltages and thus negate each other. The signal wires can also be shielded. It's also immune to cross-talk. It requires two signal wires. It is more suited to cars, automation and heavy machinery though, due to the virtually infinite amount of nodes you can attach to it. You can also attach as many listeners as you like.
This is the reason I'm going to get all my stuff from you guys. Thanks for making the video, it helps a lot with my Ducati project. Keep 'em coming. Would love to see install and comparison on that led headlight I've been eyeing.
Man these videos are awesome...feel like i might be able to do a lot of the work myself on my project bike. Thanks
For anyone wondering the way the system works is say your blinker calls for a three ohms signal the m button puts out that signal corresponding for blinkers. Then for the horn it’s five ohm and so on and so forth. Each different button or function requires a different ohm output that the M unit registers
Thank you. I'm trying to wrap my head around it ahead of time for my cb750 chopper build. I'm starting from scratch no factory harness just engine and frame. That's actually really neat and explains why the m button makes the m unit installs so much easier on the older Hondas. You usually have to do a killswitch work around due to lack of ground coming from the key switch. So if I'm understanding correctly by using the m button it converts it to a digital signal so to speak and can then register my ohms which is continuity (?) And let me use the m unit correctly and more simply. I'm not a electrician and I'm definitely in slightly over my head but that's how you learn and grow. I've still got a long way to go as I'm just now getting the engine back in shape. But I'm trying to wrap my head around this stuff now so I'm not throwing wrenches at the wall of my garage again like I did when I cracked into my honda shadow control cluster thinking a 3 button switch and throttle swap would be a 15 minute job. Took my 15 minutes to figure out what I was even looking at with the diagrams. I'm sure it'll all be a cake walk after I rewire the cb750.
Little nerd tip. Use a bread board to hold your wires together easily for demos like this.
Hi you guys. Love your videos. Very good information. Have you ever considered making a video about Wiring the m-button in the handlebar? searched everywhere with no result. My project by the way is a 82 XS 1100.
Thanks again.
it would be awesome to have the equivalent for the outputs as well, so i.e. one "button" for the front and one for the back to which the lights, indicators, etc. are connected to, to limit the amount of cabling that needs to go to the front/back of the bike even more..
For the brake switch..
I have a banjo bolt brake sensor with two wires.
One wire from sensor goes to purple brake wire off m-button? and the other wire can be spliced to the black ground wire off the m-button?
For more in-depth help feel free to reach out to our Tech Support team - techsupport@revivalcycles.com
Thanks!
Going to install one of these on an electric bike in terms of emi should there be any issue with that don't know if electric motor it's a hub motor so it's going to be far away but the battery will be right next to it don't know if I need that makes an emi
These are super helpful videos, thanks!
I saw somewhere that the MButton doesn't work with the first gen MUnit - but your demonstration clearly shows it works…before I order, can you confirm please.
The m.Button does work with the V.2 m.Unit. If the goal is an easier install and more reliable electrical system I would run wires directly from the switches. Motogadget makes some of the best quality components available but after having spent many years working with Motogadget products I wouldn't say that the m.button provides enough advantage to off set it's potential problems. If you're building a show bike and all of the wiring is hidden with in the m.Button would help quite a bit. It's biggest setbacks would be that it is capable of permanent mechanical failure that can only be diagnosed by removing it from the system. and it is vulnerable to RFI from the ignition system, the results of which are random phantom switch activations and resonant RPMs.
-Berry
@@RevivalCycles 100% agree here. The m.Button is cool but unnecessary, hard to fit, and can act as a failure point.
can you run two of these in each handle bar?
Guys what guage flex wire is on the Munit Mo button.? Anyone know?
Hi I am looking to fit motogadget blue to a vw trike I am building which has a dynamo do you have any advice please
Great vid, thanks.
Is there a delay disadvantage to signals, for example, compared to just leaving the OEM wiring in place?
There's no delay but to be perfectly honest this video is old and we've changed course on our feelings about the m.Button. This is a companion component to the m.Unit which is great, but it's not at all difficult to run a hand full of 22awg or smaller wires through your bars and install them into the prelabeled inputs on the m.Unit. After years of answering technical support about this product, we've determined that it's overhyped and solves an imaginary problem while introducing a high probability for issues that are difficult to diagnose when they occur.
Hi Stefan,
Thanks for the great vids on m-unit blue. Unfortunately, I just ordered the mo-button for my m-blue before reading your comments regarding the mo-button being "overhyped". Can the mo-button even be used on my 1972 Triumph T120V Bonneville with my stock switches or do I need to install a modern set like the m-switch mini in your vid? Thanks.
The Mo-Button cannot be used with any stock switches that work off of a power (12v) signal, it will only work with switches that work off of ground signals. The Mo-Unit works the same way, it will only work with momentary switches providing a ground signal to the unit itself.
Thanks!
@@RevivalCycles Okay, thanks!
So just to be clear, the M-Button is like a signal transposer, like an A/D converter in a studio recording setup (analog -> Digital), taking a current and turning it into a data signal.
Which is to say, IT IS NOT A BUTTON at all.... This was confusing to me until I watched this video.
Exactly. It takes the signals from the buttons and communicates those to the m-Unit. It doesn't matter what type of switches are connected, it is a straight pass through of information, and the configuration on the m-Unit determines how the buttons work.
Like the Munit the little 2 channel audio to digital guitar preamp from back in the day...same people??
Can the m button be used with original switches?
Unless your switches are momentary switches that are used in conjunction with an M-Unit the M-Button will not work for your current setup.
An welche stecker von M Unit muss angeschlossen werden ?
How do I purchase an M unit for a 1985 BMW k100
Here ya go...
revivalcycles.com/collections/motogadget-parts/products/motogadget-m-unit-blue
THIS IS THE VIDEO IVE BEEN WAITING FOR! thank you. your videos are awesome.
hi You can connect a 12V 2-amp fan for radiator to a wiring honda crm 250 mk1
If this question in regards to the m.Unit the answer is yes, you can power a 12V radiator with an m.Unit. There are two 15 amp AUX outputs available. It might be worth mentioning though that the m.Unit does require 12V DC current and a battery. If your CRM is generating un-rectified AC current the first order of business is determining if and how you can turn that into regulated/rectified DC with a battery. If that's possible someone's surely done it and documented it on the web.
-Jeff
You guys all Rock!
Hi Stefan, I am looking at buying the m-unit and m-button. Am I able to use the typical standard bar controls / switches, or do you need aftermarket switches?
Thanks
Paul
Hi, You can use standard latching switches after doing some significant modification but truth be told, the user experience is terrible. The m.Unit manages the controls in an entirely different way than the old system and it's not really compatible with latching switches. So you can use them but it's just a bandaid and not pleasant in my experience. Also, DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON AN M.BUTTON. You don't need it, it doesn't actually make anything about your install easier and they can break so you're just adding one more variable into your system that can fail which is counter to our philosophy behind m.Unit installations.
@@RevivalCycles thank you for taking the time to reply to my question. I really appreciate your honesty.
@@RevivalCycles wish I'd read this 3 days ago, on advice from another builder I just ordered an M.button to go with my M.Unit that I already have
Its really an impressive little thing thanks for the video it's very educational.
One question though. if it's only one wire going from the handlebar,where do they recommend to connect the ground? The handlebars?
Thanks again!
+bigmac throttlebody That's right, motogadget recommends grounding through the handlebars. And if you are using their m-Switches they include a tiny little ring terminal that you can use to connect a ground to the aluminum switch housing. This configuration gives you a path to ground that goes through the housing, through the bars, through the bar clamps, through the triple, through the stem, through the bearings, and FINALLY the frame. This will work, but we prefer to run a dedicated ground wire to the handlebar controls. It does mean you have two wires going to the bars, but that seems like a small price to pay for improved reliability and certainty about the ground connection.
"When your wiring your bike please do a better job" ahw man that's literally how i put my right side switch back together. 3m tape makes me the electrician i ain't. Lol I'll fix it eventually
The one downside with this device is you cannot use a separate configure button on the M-unit while this is hooked up. The reason I say this is a downside is you cannot turn the alarm function on and off or access any of the configuration menus with the M-button and a separate configure button hooked up at the same time. You would think that you could use one of the buttons hooked up to the M-button but none of them will access the configure menu while the M-unit is powered on.
Also it's a total pain in the ass trying to get this inside a set of handlebars. It was almost worse trying to get it out of my handlebars after I decided to run separate wires instead. After installing this and removing it I decided you really aren't saving anything more than a couple of ounces of extra wire that you have to run.
I guess you could remove the M-button wire from the configure terminal each time you wanted to change something but felt it really wasn't worth the headache. Not exactly something I want to do if I ride my bike somewhere and want to turn the alarm on. Don't get me wrong it's a cool product but not worth it in my opinion
I wondered if that was the case, seems a bit of a pain. I guess you could have a hidden switch somewhere to toggle between the wire from the m button and another auxiliary.
Can you put both buttons into the config input?
+Brad Castellano You can run two wires into the configure port although you would need a toggle switch of some sort wired in line on the m-blaze wire to cut power to that when you want to use the configure function on the m-unit. I hope that makes sense.
Yep, thanks
+Brad Castellano Glad to help.
Thanks for the videos guys ... But as I understand If one has m-button with m-blue, breakout box A is not necessary anymore?
m-button will do the magic ? this is my first build so I'm confuuuused
@Kombosto No worries. The m.Button and Breakout Box are completely for unrelated applications. The m.Button turns the controls inputs into digital signals sent to the m.Unit, while the Breakout Box turns your motorcycle sensors electrical signals into digital inputs so that the Motoscope Pro gauge can interpret them.
Hope that helps,
-Berry
do the handlebar switches have to be motogadget also?? or can they be any brand??
Would it be possible to wire the M-button into the normal Yamaha Buttons ? Or do i have to youse speacial buttons ?
The m-Button works with any type of switches, including OEM style switches. The m-Button is just a converter that sends the signals via a single cable, there is no logic or control happening with the m-Button. The m-Unit is what interprets the signals from the m-Button, and you will need to configure menu 5 to match the type of switches you are using.
If you are using stock switches you will need to ensure the switches are connected so they give a ground referenced signal. Most OEM switches are setup for sending +12v signals, but reviewing the wire diagram you should be able to make the needed changes.
Hey guys. I have a quick question I am struggling with. I am wiring my custom bike with an M-Unt and M button. As it is kick start only, do I need to do anything with the starter cable from the M button?
The m.Button isn't really designed for a kick only bike. To add a kill function you could either wire this button outside of the m.Unit or double tap the start button to kill it like an electric start bike.
Really it’s a simple single cheap controller that the rats nest of wires attach to… about $2. As neat as this seems it introduces complications to the wiring beyond easily field diagnostics along the roadside, and it still needs ground and power wires… so it’s not one wire just the comm signal wire going to the M-gadget. The hassle of making a bundle of hidden switch wires to it and stashing that in the handle bars is just crude or more so than simply running a bundle of individual control wires direct from the switches … probably is easier… and it is still digital control with low power control wires. A neat bundle 12v low power 20-22-24 gauge wires has the advantage over the single 22 awg wire is some mechanical robustness and less electrical interference issues… and easier to put shielding sleeve over the bundle and make ground connection. NOW hear’s an idea run the bundled cables to the m-Button using a nearby small connector or a terminal stop for the control switch wires connections then you have trouble shooting access to the switch wiring … this mounted next to the m-gadget… and m- button then that tiny fragile single wire is protected and you have much less complication and aggravation hiding all the mess of switch wires to m-button… As alternative do this near the handle bar but you still have a single fragile wire run… that you need to bundle like a loom and shielding protect.
I already purchased this item, but the question is: can I connect this the original harness or the other custom harness?
This only works as an additional component to an m.Unit installation, hence a custom harness. Just about every question one might ask about these is covered in the the Tech Articles page of our website.
does this work on the blue unit? it does not have a "config" input.
It does work with the Blue, It is wired into the Kill input.
Hi there, I just found your channel and I like what you have so far! I have a question on this and the m-unit. Do you have to have them m-button when installing an m-unit, or can it be wired directly?
The m-Button is not necessary when installing an m-Unit. The majority of the installs we do will have the m-Switch mini's connected directly to the m-Unit., but with builds where there is absolutely minimal wiring and everything is routed internally the m-Button can be useful for simplifying the handlebar wiring.
@@RevivalCyclescan i use different buttons for this to work or only needs to be from motogadget?
Hello there, I have m-Unit, m Button and m-Switch. I have connect the m-Unit with the m-Button with one cable (config) from I have connect the red cables from m-Buttons with horn , lights etc . Can I connect ALL BLACK CABLES from m-Switch to the GROUND of m-Button (because the space inside the handlebar is too small),??? Last I have connect the ground of battery ONLY with the ground of m-Unit. Question is this right or have I made any mistake?? Thank you
The grounds from the m-Switch and the m-Button can be spliced in any way that is convenient for packaging. The important part is just that they all have a secure connection to ground. That means if you are splicing all the wires inside the handlebars and then grounding to the handlebars, then you need to also make sure the handlebars have a path to ground. Sometimes the powdercoat or anodizing, or paint will cause there to be no connection between the bars and the frame.
hi i have a 1997 gsxr600
will the mbutton and munit work on this bike ??
Yes both will work on your bike. However, as I recall that bike has clip on handlebars and that make the m-Button a pain to install since you need to get wires from both bars to connect to the m-Button. I'd suggest just running the control switches directly to the m-Unit.
Hi Stephen I mounted a Motogadget M-unit v.2, the m-Button connected to two 3ways m-Switch on my Guzzi cafe-racer, both connected to a dedicated ground wire. My problem is that sometimes, the right turn light (led rizoma) starts with no input (engine ON or OFF) and the worse thing: sometimes the start button cut off the electricity, switching-off the engine during cruise (probably works as kill switch function). I have ck the integrity of all wires and they seem to be OK. I have changed the 2 buttons on right m-Switch but the problem do not disappeared. On your opinion the m-Button could be faulty? Have you ever noticed about this problem?
Many thanks
Stefano
Stefano - This sounds like an issue with electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI) created by the ignition system. This issue happens on some builds but there is no clear cause, most bikes work, a few don't. There are two solutions to the problem, first you could eliminate the m-Button and route the wires from the switches directly to the m-Unit. Or you can try to control the EMI / RFI, using suppression core spark plug wires like the ones we sell. You can also try resistor spark plugs, and spark plug caps.
We have had some customers try to fix the issue by shielding the green config wire from the m-Button, but this has not been effective.
If you run into more problems, send an email to techsupport@revivalcycles.com and we can get into more details.
Many thanks for your help. I' ll keep you informed.
how much to buy the unit, button, and swtiches and installation totaled?
this is for custom stuff. for dudes that make bikes.
Love the video's guys!
If I want to configure one button on the m switch mini to be the kill switch, what would I wire it to?
I don't know if they check this all the time but they do respond to email: techsupport@revivalcycles.com. I've had great interactions with them remotely and in person (great shop if you get a chance to swing by!).
Guess you get a lot of "too good to be trues". With the m Button do you still obviate the need for fuses? Previous comment says because it uses the config slot you can't config the unit. Can you config it and then remove the config button and the unit remembers?
Yes the m-Button does not require any fuses, and the m-Unit still handles all the power distribution. There are still a couple fuses needed in the system, main fuse to protect battery from charging system failure, and low amp fuses for the gauge if you are using motogadget gauges.
Also, the configuration on the m-Unit only needs to be set once, and for that reason we do not permanently install config buttons for the m-Unit. The process is usually to get everything installed, then configure the m-Unit to match your preferences, and then connect the m-Button to the config input. Should be good to go after that. Realistically, you could configure the m-Unit before even starting the install just using a battery for temporary power on the bench, it stores the settings in memory even when power is removed.
how i connect a Harley hi beam and low beam switch using m button and m unit ?
The headlight wiring and controls are addressed in the m-Unit manual on the bottom of page 4 and top of page 5. motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/munit_v2_manual_en_3.2_k.pdf
R u make video of urself or products? We r here to see the products not ur face...
Just here for the beard.
magic and witchcraft is probably a simple DS2408 chip that costs about 5 euro and is being epoxied in a tube section and labeled and sold 10x more expensive.
It is funny how small business like Motogadget tries to make the money for a living... and sad in the same time....