We have some long standing floor standing tools too. Our circle cutter and our easy edger are almost 100 years old. I'll take a high quality old tool over a brand new poser 100% of the time.
Wow, sheet metal IS fun! Great presentation. Much appreciated. I've dinked around here and there with sheet metal for my own random needs. Scribing, nipping, pop rivets and whatnot. These videos have really begun to show me how to break the problem down, think it through, and how much I really want that massive brake. The spot welder would be pretty neat, too. The best tools in the world don't make much difference without a top notch teacher. Keep up the great work, Ken, and Thanks.
Well I'm so happy to see your interest in the craft. I'm havin a blast making them with my sweetheart. You keep learning, I'll keep teaching. How's that. Thanks for your time.
This is why I love RUclips. Seeing people, like you, sharing their knowledge and skills to keep the art alive and possibly get new people interested in it. You explain things way better than any teacher I had in school, the reasons why you do something a certain way (also showing the bad ways of doing it) and keeping it encouraging and fun at the same time. I love seeing the techniques involved with each new project you showcase in your videos, please don't stop!
50 Years ago when I was in high school I wanted to be a sheet metal mechanic l took 4years of the course instead I went welding this brings back lots of memories
When people ask what I do I usually say I'm a welder. I've been Welding for 55 years. It's an honorable and well paying profession. Thanks for watching
Back in the arly 1980's I had to make ALL of my Pittsburgh Lockforms by hand, using the bending press and seaming tools with a hammer. Usually eight foot long by 12 inches diameter. Then crimped. Ahhh those were the days, and just after I left, the boss bought a second hand lockforming machine as no-one else knew how to make them by hand!! 🙄
I enjoyed going thru the basics again. I went thru a 1 week course in the summer before school started in the 8th grade learning to see if we wanted to go and do HVAC. I made a basic pan similar to what you did except we solder the edges. I gave that pan to my sister so she could put her makeup in it. She is now 72 years old. We were talking on the phone and she still uses it for her makeup. I still do a little sheet metal work once and awhile. I retired 2 years ago from doing electrical and welding at a mine.
Yes, taking flat mtl & laying out lines in the right places is Very satisfying. Then rolling/braking the parts into cones, sq to rounds etc. I needed hub caps for my '65 F100 front wheels. Took the measurements, layed it out on paper board first. Then placed the pattern on a small piece of 16ga. Cut it out. Then warmed it up with my torch. Next was forming it. Made a flange with three holes (120* apart) that are welded to the cones. Needed threaded blocks to be welded to the steel rim (so hub caps would be fastened to the rims). I made the hub caps so they are interchangleable. Sand blasted them. Painted them white. Been working for 20+ yrs.
Hey Ken, i just stumbled onto you channel. I retired last year after doing sheetmetal for 45 years. Looking at your shop i think of all the equipment i end up selling when i closed my business. Old school lay out with no cnc. I thought i was one of the only ones that marked ductwork like you showed. Only thing i kept was an english wheel and beading machine. Great video!
I'm in it 45 years too. I turned out in 83. I'm as old school as they get. I still love it after all these years. I've never tried an English wheel though. Maybe when I retire. Thanks for hanging out with us
Love the videos. My father was a tinknocker for over 30 years. When I was a kid we used to make little transitions and such using his layout books and Manila folder material- i learned a lot about geometry from that.
I love these videos and have become fascinated with ductwork fabrication in general. I made my first Pittsburgh lock two days ago. I didn't have access to a guillotine, seam forming machine, or press break but had a go anyway. I used snips to dimension the starting sheet and tried hammering the folds over a bench corner. I market out a one-piece, 150mm x 125mm (6" x 5"), duct section to be joined down the one long (600mm / 2') seam with a Pittsburgh lock. Unsurprisingly given my crude tools and method, it is a bit rough with visible unevenness in the folded corners. Also the Pittsburgh edge had a slight curve along its length (the 600mm long edge was very difficult to keep still when I hammered the folds, despite clamping). Even with those defects, the duct is solid, I can't pull it apart and the joint is tight. I can't tell you how thrilled I am with my first shoddy fabrication results, especially as it was only last weekend that I'd worked out exactly how the folds are sequenced in the Pittsburgh (very clearly shown in this video though). A friend of mine has a press break and has said I can have a go with it during the week so I'm really looking forward to repeating the exercise. Thanks for posting these informative, and inspirational, videos.
Well you are easily the star student of the week. We are so glad you found value in our lesson. My wife and I both grinned ear to ear as we read your encouraging response. Keep us posted as you progress in your pursuit of mechanical competency. Check out our other lessons and let me know what you think. Thank you for your time.
Pittsburgh is the name of the seam. Lock forming is the process of manufacture. Then, there is the trademarked brand LOCKFORMER, which is the company that makes the machine. They also make a machine that makes the SNAP-LOCK seam, which has taken quite a share of the market. Great question. Thanks for watching
Wow, Ken... my Dad and Grandfather were sheet metal men. This brings back great memories. I have, and still use, many of my father's (and grandfather's) hand tools. I'm 66 and still get a kick watching and doing skilled crafting. Thanks again for the great videos. 👍 Subscribed today.
Ken, these are so great. You're a natural teacher. I sure hope you keep making these videos and I look forward to learning more. I really hope to see more car related stuff but even just learning the basics is great. Also looking forward to making the scribe.
That's nice Ken. Our church has a probably two year plan to replace our furnace in a little building and this lesson in having fun with sheet metal may come in handy. Fairly good video, sound needs some work still. but all I do is put the sound at a acceptable level (for my wife) and put the speaker close or further away as the sound level varies.
The old dudes loose their minds. Wow you aint kidding. I was working on lights in a shop on a boom lift and witnessed a 1st year apprentice get it from "an old dude " so bad I felt bad for the kid. You know how seldom apprentices are felt bad for.
I saw an old dried up prune of a tin knocker fire a first year apprentice on the spot for tapping 1/4 " 90 on an elbow cheek while it was clamped in the 10 footer. That cranky old dinosaur musta been 42 ,43. Funny, that was 42 years ago 🤣
I will never forget the way he almost screamed at the kid. I hadn't thought about that for years but as soon as you said lose their minds, it came flooding back. You do an excellent job with your sheetmetal videos--beyond excellent. I have learned a lot from them. Fractions and reading the rule are better than I have seen anyone do it. You have got me thinking about it. I am now retired and I have always liked to see oil measures and things like that being made at historical reenactments. I am not looking for anything more than my own entertainment. Thanks a lot! @@kengodfrey1956
If you don't have a dovetail notching tool, you can get a better result by using left and right snips. Cut the notch at twice the normal width, first with one pair of snips then bisected those notches with the other pair of snips. ( red, green, red, etc.) The metal will then naturally want to have opposing directions. Good luck from an Aussie "sheetie".
I love this channel and I've learned a lot. I would like to build a dust collector blower housing and an impeller for a dust collector. I've seen several builds, but they are all built out of wood, which isn't as durable as a sheetmetal one. Are you planning on making one at some point? It would make an awesome video.
Word of warning, dust collectors can create a lot of static electricity from the rubbing particles. Make sure your dust collector is grounded to avoid a static electricity spark from setting off a dust explosion or burning down your workshop.
From watching other videos, I decided I wanted to get some "mastic" to seal the cracks. I haven't been able to find any. Not sure if urethane or butyl would be good. I assume one should consider fire safety and fumes. Would aluminum tape work here? I don't know if high heat would melt the adhesive. Another excellent video that shows us how to be independent, and not have to buy the finished product from a store. Thank you, Ken!
Ken, What is a fishlock? I sometimes get confused between this and Pittsburgh lock? I guess fishlock is a variation on your dovetail lock? I have a very basic set of hand tools for sheet metal. Aviation Snips, hand crimper, hand seamers, sheers, hammers, bar folder, pop rivet tools, Whitney punch (actually a cheaper knock off version) and such. They have served me well over the years, but I have a feeling I am going to learn some new tricks for them here! Thank you Sir!
I'm not familiar with a fish lock or a dove tail lock, but a lot of terms can be regional. I have spent my entire career in southern and northern California. We have used Pittsburgh, coffin lock,and snap lock for longitudinal seams. The main thing is to use what is available to you and have fun. Thanks for watching
Hi Ken, thanks all your videos. My school has a pan and box brake and thanks to your videos I’ve been using it. I have some odd projects in mind. Do you have any tips for repeating unusual angles on the brake? Today I made two identical pieces with 30 degree bends in them, and it was a lot of eyeballing and I went a little far with one of them and had to try and unbend it. Do you have any tips for hitting those odd angles every time? Thanks Also would be interested in any tips you have for cutting odd angles accurately on the shear.
At the pivot point of the brake, there is a stationary part and a moving part. When you get the bend you want, hold the bending leaf( that's the moving part) and use a pencil to make a reference mark across the two parts of the brake. Let me know if that makes sense. Thanks
I just bought a piece of sheet metal, I want to try to make a battery box for my 1954 farmall 100. The metal is 16 gauge. I only have claw hammer and a few c clamps some drills drill motor and a 120v wire welder. Can I do this? I have not tried this before.
You can definitely do this. 16 gauge is nice and thick. When I am in the field I drill a series of holes along the intended bend line. It bends easier and more predictably. You got it. Send us a picture of your project to sheetmetalisfun@yahoo.com. thanks for hanging out with us.
Stopped for a second, you're making the other half of the plenum. I'm wondering how you're ever going to get those 1/4" bends inside of each other. Continue... Marking the circle, I want one of those hammers.... Ok that's how the corners go. What kind of sealant?
@@kengodfrey1956 Did a search, I see mastic, acrylic latex, a lot they just don't say, some with fiber. Some in a bucket or in a tube. They say to overlap any blankets by 2 inches and staple. I wonder what that staple looks like, must be special gun like a box staple to be crimped from the outside? Do you do the metal or also the insulation?
@@robert574 on a small scale, like this one, I prefer the caulking gun application. Insist on polyurethane or butyl. No latex or silicone. They both degrade and delaminate.
I've had some stuff made out of urethane just fall apart and crack unexpectedly. They are painting everything with mastic now days. I think it has fiber in it. Hard to picture that going bad. Does mastic come in a tube?
![ROSÉ (로제) - number one girl [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A9oByH9Ci24/mqdefault.jpg)
This is GOLD. The Sheet Metal Whisperer!
I hope we showed you at least two things you didn't know. Thanks for watching
Super gorgeous! Thank-you.
Your array of floor-standing tools is lustable!
We have some long standing floor standing tools too. Our circle cutter and our easy edger are almost 100 years old. I'll take a high quality old tool over a brand new poser 100% of the time.
Always appreciate when a master tradesman takes time to share some knowledge. Soak it up boys and girls and give thanks.
You received the lesson in the spirit that it was given. Thankfulness.
Awesome videos. Enjoy watching. Thanks again
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm glad you're enjoying journey. We are too.
Полезный урок!
You have golden hands👍👍👍👍👍
You are very kind. If you follow these lessons, you can do it too. Challenge yourself to reach new skill levels. Thanks for learning along with us.
Absolutely amazing! Never ever heard of the "Pittsburgh." Thanks!
You will love it the first time you use one. Thanks for watching
Another great class! I don’t know what was worse, listening to the tin knockers building their duct or the sheet rockers building metal stud walls!
A dead tie if you ask me.😵💫 love me some ear plugs baby!
Nice video Ken, thank you. And very practical I might add.
I'm glad you enjoyed the lesson. Thanks
Boy, sheet metal it fun!
Tried to tell ya. I ain't kiddin.
It's always fun to watch someone who knows what he is doing. That would take me 10 times longer to do. Thank
you for the lesson
We are glad to share with you. Thank you for your time and encouragement.
Wow, sheet metal IS fun!
Great presentation. Much appreciated.
I've dinked around here and there with sheet metal for my own random needs. Scribing, nipping, pop rivets and whatnot. These videos have really begun to show me how to break the problem down, think it through, and how much I really want that massive brake. The spot welder would be pretty neat, too.
The best tools in the world don't make much difference without a top notch teacher. Keep up the great work, Ken, and Thanks.
Well I'm so happy to see your interest in the craft. I'm havin a blast making them with my sweetheart. You keep learning, I'll keep teaching. How's that. Thanks for your time.
This is why I love RUclips. Seeing people, like you, sharing their knowledge and skills to keep the art alive and possibly get new people interested in it. You explain things way better than any teacher I had in school, the reasons why you do something a certain way (also showing the bad ways of doing it) and keeping it encouraging and fun at the same time. I love seeing the techniques involved with each new project you showcase in your videos, please don't stop!
You keep watching I'll keep posting. How's that grab ya. I'm having a blast. Thanks
Now I know what the guy installing my new furnace meant when he said "this should have a cross break in it but..." lol. Thanks for the good content!
Now look at ya. Being more aware and capable. That's awesome. Thanks for watching and learning.
Great video production/discussion/demonstration/build/tips
I started at 18 worked at sheet metal to age 74 sir I love the way you teach
Glad you found us and you enjoyed our lesson . Thank you.
i was wondering where the doggy was and finally at the end... great videos. i learn something on every one.
That's the deal. Let's learn together. Thanks for spending time with us.
Excellent video, really enjoyed that.
I'm glad you came by. Thank you
Great skill set shared by a natural instructor . Thanks
Thank you. I appreciate your encouragement. I'm havin fun with these lessons and I'm glad you enjoyed it.
brilliant, and very informative. you have a 'knack' thank you, from Vancouver BC
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
50 Years ago when I was in high school I wanted to be a sheet metal mechanic l took 4years of the course instead I went welding this brings back lots of memories
When people ask what I do I usually say I'm a welder. I've been Welding for 55 years. It's an honorable and well paying profession. Thanks for watching
Thanks for spreading the fun . We always remember our first Pittsburgh seam. Well at least the successful one.
Excellent Video, great straightforward instruction, by a craftsman
Back in the arly 1980's I had to make ALL of my Pittsburgh Lockforms by hand, using the bending press and seaming tools with a hammer. Usually eight foot long by 12 inches diameter. Then crimped. Ahhh those were the days, and just after I left, the boss bought a second hand lockforming machine as no-one else knew how to make them by hand!! 🙄
They didn't know how good you were till you moved on. Tale as old as time. Thanks
I enjoyed going thru the basics again. I went thru a 1 week course in the summer before school started in the 8th grade learning to see if we wanted to go and do HVAC. I made a basic pan similar to what you did except we solder the edges. I gave that pan to my sister so she could put her makeup in it. She is now 72 years old. We were talking on the phone and she still uses it for her makeup. I still do a little sheet metal work once and awhile. I retired 2 years ago from doing electrical and welding at a mine.
I'm glad you stopped by. Making stuff is so rewarding.
You’re a very good teacher and your videos are enjoyable to watch. Thank you for the work you do and the information you share!
I'm glad you found value in our lesson. We are glad to share what we've learned
Thank you
Yes, taking flat mtl & laying out lines in the right places is Very satisfying. Then rolling/braking the parts into cones, sq to rounds etc. I needed hub caps for my '65 F100 front wheels. Took the measurements, layed it out on paper board first. Then placed the pattern on a small piece of 16ga. Cut it out. Then warmed it up with my torch. Next was forming it. Made a flange with three holes (120* apart) that are welded to the cones. Needed threaded blocks to be welded to the steel rim (so hub caps would be fastened to the rims). I made the hub caps so they are interchangleable. Sand blasted them. Painted them white. Been working for 20+ yrs.
Hey Ken, i just stumbled onto you channel. I retired last year after doing sheetmetal for 45 years. Looking at your shop i think of all the equipment i end up selling when i closed my business. Old school lay out with no cnc. I thought i was one of the only ones that marked ductwork like you showed. Only thing i kept was an english wheel and beading machine. Great video!
I'm in it 45 years too. I turned out in 83. I'm as old school as they get. I still love it after all these years. I've never tried an English wheel though. Maybe when I retire. Thanks for hanging out with us
Another excellent video lesson - thanks very much Ken - really the time you're both taking to this 👍🏻🇬🇧
I so happy you enjoyed it and learned a couple things.
Love the videos. My father was a tinknocker for over 30 years. When I was a kid we used to make little transitions and such using his layout books and Manila folder material- i learned a lot about geometry from that.
Creating solutions and engaging your mind. That will pay dividends for life.
Pretty cool! My dad was a Sheetmetal fabricator (ductwork) I wish I had thought of doing this with him he had 30-40 years experience! Good job
Sounds like you got something good out of our lesson. That's a win for both of us. Thanks for checking us out.
I love these videos and have become fascinated with ductwork fabrication in general. I made my first Pittsburgh lock two days ago. I didn't have access to a guillotine, seam forming machine, or press break but had a go anyway. I used snips to dimension the starting sheet and tried hammering the folds over a bench corner. I market out a one-piece, 150mm x 125mm (6" x 5"), duct section to be joined down the one long (600mm / 2') seam with a Pittsburgh lock. Unsurprisingly given my crude tools and method, it is a bit rough with visible unevenness in the folded corners. Also the Pittsburgh edge had a slight curve along its length (the 600mm long edge was very difficult to keep still when I hammered the folds, despite clamping). Even with those defects, the duct is solid, I can't pull it apart and the joint is tight. I can't tell you how thrilled I am with my first shoddy fabrication results, especially as it was only last weekend that I'd worked out exactly how the folds are sequenced in the Pittsburgh (very clearly shown in this video though). A friend of mine has a press break and has said I can have a go with it during the week so I'm really looking forward to repeating the exercise. Thanks for posting these informative, and inspirational, videos.
Well you are easily the star student of the week. We are so glad you found value in our lesson. My wife and I both grinned ear to ear as we read your encouraging response. Keep us posted as you progress in your pursuit of mechanical competency. Check out our other lessons and let me know what you think. Thank you for your time.
Thank you so much for the great videos. Not only do you teach well but your knowledge is so vast. It is a pleasure to watch you.
I'm havin a blast ! I'm glad it shows. Thanks
Never heard the term Pitsberg! we a used to call it Lock forming. Paul from Ireland. Nice work
Pittsburgh is the name of the seam. Lock forming is the process of manufacture. Then, there is the trademarked brand LOCKFORMER, which is the company that makes the machine. They also make a machine that makes the SNAP-LOCK seam, which has taken quite a share of the market. Great question. Thanks for watching
Wow, Ken... my Dad and Grandfather were sheet metal men. This brings back great memories. I have, and still use, many of my father's (and grandfather's) hand tools. I'm 66 and still get a kick watching and doing skilled crafting. Thanks again for the great videos. 👍 Subscribed today.
My great grampa was the village blacksmith in the Ozarks. Great memories. I'm glad you stopped by and checked us out.
Very nice video!!
Nice work you you have a new student
It's nice to have you along for the journey. Let me know when you learn something new from us. Let's learn together. Thanks
Ken, these are so great. You're a natural teacher. I sure hope you keep making these videos and I look forward to learning more. I really hope to see more car related stuff but even just learning the basics is great. Also looking forward to making the scribe.
I appreciate your encouragement. I'm having a blast. Maybe I'll do an episode on the 56. I've had it 50 years. I've laid hands on it a bunch.
@@kengodfrey1956 That would be great to see what you have done on it.
That's nice Ken. Our church has a probably two year plan to replace our furnace in a little building and this lesson in having fun with sheet metal may come in handy. Fairly good video, sound needs some work still. but all I do is put the sound at a acceptable level (for my wife) and put the speaker close or further away as the sound level varies.
Your videos are Gold!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m going to apply your lessons to an electronics tray for my dirtbike build.
You just made my day. Go for it!
The old dudes loose their minds. Wow you aint kidding. I was working on lights in a shop on a boom lift and witnessed a 1st year apprentice get it from "an old dude " so bad I felt bad for the kid. You know how seldom apprentices are felt bad for.
I saw an old dried up prune of a tin knocker fire a first year apprentice on the spot for tapping 1/4 " 90 on an elbow cheek while it was clamped in the 10 footer. That cranky old dinosaur musta been 42 ,43. Funny, that was 42 years ago 🤣
I will never forget the way he almost screamed at the kid. I hadn't thought about that for years but as soon as you said lose their minds, it came flooding back. You do an excellent job with your sheetmetal videos--beyond excellent. I have learned a lot from them. Fractions and reading the rule
are better than I have seen anyone do it. You have got me thinking about it. I am now retired and I have always liked to see oil measures and things like that being made at historical reenactments.
I am not looking for anything more than my own entertainment. Thanks a lot!
@@kengodfrey1956
Awesome
If you don't have a dovetail notching tool, you can get a better result by using left and right snips. Cut the notch at twice the normal width, first with one pair of snips then bisected those notches with the other pair of snips. ( red, green, red, etc.) The metal will then naturally want to have opposing directions. Good luck from an Aussie "sheetie".
I like that a lot.
A shop cat with no tail, there must be a story about that. :-)
Not a story really, more like a brief tale.
I love this channel and I've learned a lot. I would like to build a dust collector blower housing and an impeller for a dust collector. I've seen several builds, but they are all built out of wood, which isn't as durable as a sheetmetal one. Are you planning on making one at some point? It would make an awesome video.
I haven't made one in thirty years. I'll kick it around.
Word of warning, dust collectors can create a lot of static electricity from the rubbing particles. Make sure your dust collector is grounded to avoid a static electricity spark from setting off a dust explosion or burning down your workshop.
From watching other videos, I decided I wanted to get some "mastic" to seal the cracks. I haven't been able to find any. Not sure if urethane or butyl would be good. I assume one should consider fire safety and fumes. Would aluminum tape work here? I don't know if high heat would melt the adhesive.
Another excellent video that shows us how to be independent, and not have to buy the finished product from a store. Thank you, Ken!
Polyurethane is the ticket. Let it cure for 48 hrs before you turn on the furnace. Cooling is OK right away
Ken, What is a fishlock? I sometimes get confused between this and Pittsburgh lock? I guess fishlock is a variation on your dovetail lock? I have a very basic set of hand tools for sheet metal. Aviation Snips, hand crimper, hand seamers, sheers, hammers, bar folder, pop rivet tools, Whitney punch (actually a cheaper knock off version) and such. They have served me well over the years, but I have a feeling I am going to learn some new tricks for them here! Thank you Sir!
I'm not familiar with a fish lock or a dove tail lock, but a lot of terms can be regional. I have spent my entire career in southern and northern California. We have used Pittsburgh, coffin lock,and snap lock for longitudinal seams. The main thing is to use what is available to you and have fun. Thanks for watching
Nice job!
Thanks
Ken you are slick you should have been an instructor love your teaching thankyou
The best way to learn is to teach. And I'm still learning. Thanks
An add popped up just now for Dupont Froth pac sealer. It kinda looks like mastic but you spray it on. Interesting.
Oh boy, that Ai is at it again.
What a lovely channel. Please keep the videos coming! Perhaps you can do a video about different materials?
Great idea. It's in the works.
Can you do an episode about the type of metal you use to do sheet metal work? Thickness. Characteristics.
Good questions. I'll try to work in a little more detail on the material we most commonly employ. Thank you for your time
Hi Ken, thanks all your videos. My school has a pan and box brake and thanks to your videos I’ve been using it. I have some odd projects in mind. Do you have any tips for repeating unusual angles on the brake? Today I made two identical pieces with 30 degree bends in them, and it was a lot of eyeballing and I went a little far with one of them and had to try and unbend it. Do you have any tips for hitting those odd angles every time? Thanks
Also would be interested in any tips you have for cutting odd angles accurately on the shear.
At the pivot point of the brake, there is a stationary part and a moving part. When you get the bend you want, hold the bending leaf( that's the moving part) and use a pencil to make a reference mark across the two parts of the brake. Let me know if that makes sense. Thanks
@@kengodfrey1956 I don’t understand how thats gonna work, but I’ll try it. Thanks!
@Dansplains it will be clearer when you're looking at the brake.
Smart and smug. Why is old galvanized so much more pretty than new galvanized?
Uh excuse me that's vintage gal. Plus the scribe lines show up more gooder.
Should have used a 1/2 by 1/2 flange on the bottom, less chance of getting cut and a much stiffer joint on the furnace
is it possible score a long or wide piece of sheet metal, if they don't have a sheet metal sheer?
Check out our lesson on grab bag of tools , let me know if that answers your question. Thank you.
I just bought a piece of sheet metal, I want to try to make a battery box for my 1954 farmall 100. The metal is 16 gauge. I only have claw hammer and a few c clamps some drills drill motor and a 120v wire welder. Can I do this? I have not tried this before.
You can definitely do this. 16 gauge is nice and thick. When I am in the field I drill a series of holes along the intended bend line. It bends easier and more predictably. You got it. Send us a picture of your project to sheetmetalisfun@yahoo.com. thanks for hanging out with us.
I’ve seen the four sides made from one piece.
That's also a good option. Thanks for watching I appreciate your time.
So *that's* how you use that tool: 8:30
Pretty sweet, right?
Stopped for a second, you're making the other half of the plenum. I'm wondering how you're ever going to get those 1/4" bends inside of each other. Continue... Marking the circle, I want one of those hammers.... Ok that's how the corners go. What kind of sealant?
Polyurethane
@@kengodfrey1956 Did a search, I see mastic, acrylic latex, a lot they just don't say, some with fiber. Some in a bucket or in a tube. They say to overlap any blankets by 2 inches and staple. I wonder what that staple looks like, must be special gun like a box staple to be crimped from the outside? Do you do the metal or also the insulation?
@@robert574 on a small scale, like this one, I prefer the caulking gun application. Insist on polyurethane or butyl. No latex or silicone. They both degrade and delaminate.
I've had some stuff made out of urethane just fall apart and crack unexpectedly. They are painting everything with mastic now days. I think it has fiber in it. Hard to picture that going bad. Does mastic come in a tube?
what do you charge
A good living wage. But we are booked through the end of the year. What is it you require?
Is your cat a Manx, or did she lose her tail by accident?
Genuine Manx! Then she had six kittens with a smooth talkin regular tailed tom and POW, not a tail in the herd.
great video, what's with the light reflection , my eyeballs feel seared
I stopped watching when he avoided telling what gauge sheet used.
Thanks for giving us a try . I'll keep that in mind on future lessons. I appreciate your input.
That is a very cheap system not very professional should fire somebody that tries to sell a system like this
Thanks for watching. I'm sorry I don't quite understand your comment. Can you give me a little more insight? I appreciate your time.