The stuff your making here may only appeal to a small audience of vq37vhr owners, but its some of the most valuable automotive content to those of us that can use it. Thanks for choosing to post these videos.
I don't even have a g37 or 370z, im a z31 owner, but it's ridiculous that this channel doesn't have more subs. you earned on from me for your straight to the point no BS tests.
Hey Troph2, Thanks for your kind words! I am happy with the growth of my subs, of course more is always better :) There are some very interesting episodes in pre-production right now: I will be going back to the dyno for an air filter retest (including a dyno run without any filters) and TPMS troubleshooting tips.
What would take someone 25-30 minutes, Motorvate does it in less than 6. Well done! The gold-standard for making auto repair videos. Impressive once again.
I came here just to hear what the reg idle of a g37 sounded like, plus the clicking I hear when I shut it off. Glad to know my G with now 180k miles is running as it should. That being said, I am subbing b/c this channel taught me more about my car in one video than the forums have in the past year I've owned the car!
Hey Jesse Stapleton, Wow, thanks for the kind words! You might want to have a quick look at my other channel that uses those cheap OBD scanners and apps to read troubles codes and much more: ruclips.net/user/obd4everyone
Wow... thanks for those kind words!!! AND thanks for subbing! I am way behind in getting videos out, but have been doing a lot of development of "things" us VQ folks need... for example: • 20 second install oil temp gauge • Bluetooth oil pressure gauge, 90% less wiring and 2 minute install • Real time tire pressure display • 20 second automatic transmission fluid temp gauge and a few others under development as I type this!
Thanks for this. I think the most important part of this is step 2 as I was able to get the idle back to normal by just doing the first 2. I had done them all originally after I was getting rough idle and check engine light but it turned out to be because I forgot to clip one of the MAF sensors in all the way. After I fixed that, I tried doing them all again without cooling the engine and the idle was still stuck at 1k even after 30 miles of driving. I let it cool overnight and did the first 2 steps starting with a cold engine and the idle sorted itself on the 10 minute drive to prepare for step 3. I think it makes sense that if the ecu automatically opens the butterfly more as carbon builds up that as long as the close position is reset, it should correct itself in the opposite situation. I think the reason so many people say they don't need to do anything is because they end up doing step 2 without intentionally doing it since all it requires is a cold start and bringing then engine to normal temp.
Hey Sean Stratmoen, I agree with what you are saying. However, it still is a good ideal to finish with the "idle air volume learning" so the ECU learns any change to the air flow when at idle.
If I had a misfire and changed a plug and coil pack do you think step 3 is necessary? Right now it idle at 800 after warming up. But above one and lil higher than it did before. I should be good with the first 2 right?
@@MotorvateDIYMy g35x sedan 2007 turn off at red lights sometimes when I try to accelerate and rpm goes up and down sometimes I just cleaned the throttle body and did this video to do the relearn process still doing the same thing I might have a vacum Leak any info why this is happening.😊
My g35x sedan 2007 turn off at red lights sometimes when I try to accelerate and rpm goes up and down sometimes I just cleaned the throttle body and did this video to do the relearn process still doing the same thing I might have a vacum Leak any info why this is happening.
Great video! cleaned my throttle bodies and the car went into limp mode. After performing the steps in this video the car is back to normal less one trip to the stealership. Thanks !!!
Thank you!!!!!! It worked for my G37. I replace the sparks plugs, the throttle and throttle body. It put my car in limp mode. After watching your video, I did it....it worked. Only issue now, it that my car is driving on high gear on the highway. I think it's the fuel cleaner that I put in the car. Will let you know later how it goes.
On the G37, with the 7 speed automatic trans and stock sized wheels, at 75 MPH and in 7th gear, the engine RPM should be just over 2600 RPM. If you are at 3,000 RPM at 75 MPH your transmission might be in 5th gear. Just count the shifts as your accelerate up to 75 MPH to double check what gear the auto trans is in.
If you’re struggling to get the relearn done, do all three steps one after another. No pausing to watch the video lol. And make sure ALL electronics are unplugged. Even in the center console. Finally got my relearn done and it was obvious I did it correctly! Thank you for your help, random internet stranger!
This worked! I did the idle air reset, immidiatly followed by the full ecu learning reset. (Do the same process as idle air, but as soon as the SES light begins to flash release the accelerator, then after 10 seconds hold it again. This will cause a more rapid flash and the SES will vanish
@@MotorvateDIY thanks a lot. I was frustrated when the light came back on immidiatly, but resetting the idle and ecu immidiatly after cleared it all. Slowly fixing all the things that the previous owner gave up on. Next is window memory
Great camera work and lighting. I recently picked up a clean 2007 g35s sedan with 50k miles and most of what you discuss translates to this model as well. Look forward to a battery swap when the time comes. Heard they are a bit of a pain.
Hey Zack Fanning, Thanks for your kind words. This episode was one of the more difficult to shoot since the throttle body is so low, and your hands block the camera view. I shot the throttle body cleaning about 4 times to get it figured out. Changing the battery is on the schedule for this year. Last year I shot a video on changing the battery, but didn't like it, so I will shoot it again this spring/summer :)
Is your battery located at the top right of the firewall inside a little compartment with a pop off lid? If so, then it's actually not that bad. You pop off the pop rivets that hold the compartment in place and then remove the whole compartment. After that you un-do the battery and pull it out. Installation is the reverse. Invest in replacement pop rivets because they will break off on older cars.
I don't think I was able to get Throttle Valve Closed Position Leaning to run, as my coolant temperature only reached 82F overnight. However, the other two procedures worked and my idle no longer surges after TB cleaning. Awesome instructions! Thank you!
Excellent video! Used to complete TB cleaning and relearn on my '12 G37 with 90K. Paired with spark plug replacement videos from AlexKayRN and McGo101. Saved me hundreds of dollars, thanks so much for the help! Please do a DYI coolant change video.
Glad you it helped. Last fall I did a multi-camera shoot of spark plug replacement and coolant replacement. It is in the queue to get edited. Also, I changed the coolant and need to look at the corrupted video to see what I can salvage.
Hey first off thanks for all you do for the community and for the videos. So I’ve got a 2013 g37x sedan and yesterday after a long day of running errands the car felt sluggish here and there accelerating and then started feeling weird starting up. Now thinking of it when I start up cold or hot it’s been idling a little high. Then after getting home after running around all day and it feeling different and having trouble starting up the car was off for maybe 30 minutes while I got ready for work. When I went to leave and start the car she struggled to start and felt rough starting up and idling more sporadic then usual. It felt shaky so I turned it off and took my wife’s car to work. Now I just got the car and it needs things like suspension work and a new rack and pinion mostly things that have nothing to do with the engine or transmission. I checked the fluids and while I can see I need an oil change nothing seems bone dry or crazy out of wack other then this driving off loss of acceleration once or twice yesterday and now it’s struggling to start and idling rough. After that novel do you think cleaning the tb or having someone do this for me and doing your method should help. There’s no lights on nothing as far as warning lights this just started happening. I hope you can help. Thanks a head of time .
I would start by looking at the battery. If it is 4-5 years old, you might want to get it tested to see if it has the needed power to start the car. Or if you have a volt meter, check the voltage after the car has sat all night. The voltage should be around 12.6v or more. When was the last time spark plugs were changed? You may want to remove them and check their condition. Start with these items and let me know how you made out. Good luck!
Hey thank you so much for getting back to me it means a lot. I want this car to be my hobby and my daily so after spending a good amount of money on getting it and running into the suspension and rack and pinon issues I’ve already been crushed on how much I’m gonna have to put it to make it safe and fun to drive but then this starts happening and I’m like omg is it the dreaded gallery gasket issue or my engine or transmission. I’m so glad I found your videos and that you have a g and do some much diy helping everyone of us trouble shoot and maybe save our cars and money. So yeah the battery is prob old. Looks old for sure and idk about the spark plugs but if it’s like everything else on this car it most likely needs to be replaced. Cause who ever inspected it for the dealership or had it before had the bare minimum attitude and did as little as possible to keep the car running to keep passing it on to someone else to deal with till it’s come to me and I gotta spend a huge chunk of savings to get the car where it should have mostly been when I bought it. Sorry I keep ranting. So yes I’ll check all that tomorrow maybe get a new battery and see if I can get the spark plugs changed and see if that’s helps. If it doesn’t should I try to clean the TB. Should I look out for anything else that could I show signs of anything major. I’m gonna get the oil changed too. It needs it even know the level is good it looks old. Sorry one last thing if it is just a new battery and a tune up new spark plugs ect. Is it ok to start it and drive it even with the rough starts?
You have questions... I have my thoughts/answers: (1) A dirty throttle body won't cause a rough idle, it make it a little more difficult to start when war, but all you need to do is apply a little throttle when you start it. If the idle is a little high, it ca n be difficult to get the "idle air volume learning" procedure to complete. For now, I would not clean it and look at other causes. (2) If there isn't a check engine light, it should be ok to drive it for a while with the rough start. The worry is that an engine misfire can cause a rough idle and dump raw fuel into the exhaust and catalytic converters, which is VERY bad for them. BUT if that happens, generally there will be a check engine light or a flashing check engine light. (means engine misfire)
Again thank you so much for your time. I think I may be in big trouble here and I just got the car. So I changed the spark plugs yesterday and that was an adventure and even got a new battery while I don’t think I needed it cause the fluid I saw on the battery was protector spray and the car lights everything works fine all that. Also when I changed the spark plugs one or two didn’t look that bad and the others super dirty looking and even oil on one of my spark plugs which freaks me out and means I most likely need a new valve gasket. The throttle bodies where very dirty as I had get them to the side to get to my spark plugs. The car did start right up after I changed the spark plugs with no hesitation but did idle high and cause I did unplug the battery before I worked on the car I let the car run for a while to warm up and maybe reset the way it should perform by it self but it didn’t it kept idling pretty high and I didn’t see any smoke or anything no check engine lights the car did smell a little idk if it’s burning oil or what now. I gotta get the oil changed today and maybe try the re learn process idk. So i did recently have the exhaust break or a leak cause one day it sounded fine then was super loud so I took it to a exhaust shop they fixed it for like 200 bucks and then it sounded fine again but we did have a bit of snow here and it turned to ice and i scrapped the bottom of the car a few times and something could be loose or messed up again so idk. Also I read the forums and a guy had a 2013 just like mine same issues rough start out of no where loss of power here and there and it feeling off he took it to the dealership and they came back and said it was water in his gas and replaced it and told him to get better gas and that fixed the issue. Idk brother I think I’m in trouble here in Colorado there’s no lemon law and I think this small dealership sold me a lemon even though it’s a clean title and a good carfax I’ve had the car less then two months now and I’ve already got 3 grand worth or issues to fix with the mechanic that wasn’t engine or transmission related but now I think I might need to start looking for a rebuilt or used engine which there are a few here not too much but the labor would be crazy! Again sorry for the novel 😂 you can tell I’m worried and frustrated. The good news is it goes to the mechanic next Monday to fix the suspension and the rack n pinon and the other issues he first found so hopefully he can help with the new issue of it running off and this almost short periods of limp mode or loss of power/ acceleration and the off smells. It’s sucks cause I literally have an new catback exhaust here and a new rear sway bar and end links and other little things I wanna do but I gotta get the car healthy first😢 thanks for your time and help and again I’m sorry for the novels I appreciate you. I just don’t know what to do esp no lights on the dash and this came out of no where just after getting the car.
Also after starting up the car this morning service engine soon came on😢 maybe I can go to the auto store and see what it says and see the code. Omg here go!
man, this video just perfect, straight to the point, well detailed and easy! thx man my car was stalling and rough idle but now with the throttle bodies cleaned and this vid, car running smooth like new
Hey I wanted to add one important step I found that finally made the idle reset work for me: When I got to the step were I had to hold the gas pedal down, I RELEASED IT for about 10 seconds as soon as the service light began blinking. Then I held it down for another 10 seconds (it still continued to blinked). Finally I released it then started the engine. That extra step of releasing for 10 sec then depressing for 10 sec is what finally reset my idle and turned off the service light. Without doing that the idle didnt reset. This was in a 2012 G37xS 7 speed automatic. Still your vid was awesome and helpful. Just wanted to share this tip.
Hey DoomFinger511, Thank you for sharing this tip, I really appreciate it!! It is nice to have a few different procedures to try for the idle air volume learning. :)
My g35x sedan 2007 turn off at red lights sometimes when I try to accelerate and rpm goes up and down sometimes I just cleaned the throttle body and did this video to do the relearn process still doing the same thing I might have a vacum Leak any info why this is happening.
Hey Bigdog Bulldog, I'm glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching them :) It would be nice to have a shop, but I don't. "Motorvate's DIY Garage" is the typical 2 car garage attached to my house. I am not a licensed mechanic... I am just a guy into cars and video. :)
Can confirm it works with vq35hr my idle was 1000-1500 after cleaning throttle bodies. Now it is idleing at 650rpm and cleared the service engine code !! Thank you worked on my past vq37hr as well !!!
@@MotorvateDIY 07 g35s here and the cracking has been relentless in 2 years of covered parking during the day and not using any dash conditioner. Also diligently use a sun shade and leave windows cracked to no avail
Thanks for your videos. After already replacing both my MAF sensors on my 2014 370z I cleaned my Throttle bodies and did this ecu process and everything seems to be working well. I just need to clear the code and hope it doesn't come back. Thanks!
Thanks for the informative video. For some reason it took me several attempts for the idle throttle position relearn procedure to actually reset my engine rpms to normal, on the 3rd attempt it finally worked seemingly. My idle was WAYYY off though for some reason, like 1500-2000 rpms and surging instead of being at ~650. Now the engine is purring like new.
This is absolutely the best video/explanation I have yet to see on the internet I did spark plugs on 2011 EX35 and I removed the entire throttle bodies to clean them up and to have better access to the spark plugs. Once plugged everything back on I was getting super high idle, Multiple codes P0603 and P0507 which is throttle body and car was not driving right (studdering/bogging) as I accelerate. So I cleared all the codes using scanner and also performed one of those 3 found some video on RUclips explaining how to reset ECU… my idle was corrected some what but still drives like absolute crap. I will be trying this later on today but I am a little confused on step2, so all what I need to do is turn it on and let it get to operating temperature? Hope to hear back from you today again great super great videos glad I came across your page
Step 2 is a little unusual, but you are correct. Just let it warm up. It can be tricky to get the "idle air volume learning" to run to completion. Some have commented that it took them up to 20 times. If you have an Android device and a Bluetooth OBD scanner (like an ELM327) you can use this free app to do the idle re-learn: Quick & Easy Idle Air Volume Learning: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.28 ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html Good luck!
I'm curious. I've cleaned the throttle bodies in my G37 twice now and have not had to do the idle air relearn. Could the reasoning be because I disconnect the ground from battery BEFORE getting my tools and starting the process?
Here are my thoughts based on what I have seen and researched on my G37: Disconnecting the battery doesn't prevent a high idle after TB cleaning. With the ignition off, the ECU isn't running... Just like when the battery is disconnected. If the throttle bodies are a little dirty and then cleaned, the ECU can compensate. If they are very dirty, the ECU needs to re-learn the idle air volume learning.
@@MotorvateDIY ah see I was assuming that the TB still recieved some kind of current. That's why in the older gen vq35s like on my old maxima, just looking at the dang TB wrong and it would fail. Or maybe it's the ones that use a cable? Idk I just remember being told/read that you should always disconnect the battery before servicing the TB or else the flap mechanism or w/e may fail.
Just used this to reset my Skyline 370GT. I got it right the second time, as you said, follow steps exactly, i must have been slightly out the 1st time. Thanks!!!!
@Motorvate DIY I am to! The mechanics kept saying it wouldn't do/failed the process 🤔 so I tried it a few hours after I got home..my car still dips when accelerating from 3rd to 4th though..possibly a vacuum leak!
Hey ! Not on RUclips much but I’m getting in touch in regards to the 350z ls1 cluster issue we discussed. It was nice chatting and meeting you ! Cheers 👍
I have a 2008 G37S, i needed to do valve cover gasket, and spark plugs so i naturally decided to clean TBs. Before i started the job i UNPLUGGED MY NEG BATT TERMINAL. I did not have to do a relearn what so ever. I was not wanting to use this video. I m glad it is here tho, just in case. TY
Hey Travis Massingale, That is odd... If you cleaned the edge of the throttle body, generally you will need to do the idle air volume learning as you have changed the idle position air flow. If you cleaned the front/back of the throttle plate the idle air flow doesn't change and an idle air volume learning is not required.
@@MotorvateDIY i did move and hold open the TBs. Got a super deep clean. I have to weirdest luck most of the time. I was ready to use this procedure. I forsure will use the other videos u have at some point. Ty
What if your idle is not back to normal? I have still a high idle at 1400 rpm. When doing all 3 procedures and starting the car after pressing the pedal to the floor the engine starts to surge from 1400 to 2000 rpm. I've made sure I have no vacuum leaks replaced all my intake manifold gaskets lower and upper, and just replaced the pcv valve. There is no check engine light and disconnecting the MAF does make the car run more rough but the rpm surge is still there. A surge happens once every 2 seconds after performing learning procedures. The rpm does not go down lower than 1300 to 1400 rpm
Thank you so much for the video! You showed me how to do something my mechanic didn't even do after replacing my throttle body! Was suffering power loss n high ass idle. Followed the video n shes purrin now! 03 G35 6MT 🔥🙏🏾
Mechanics have a tough job... each manufacture can have a different procedure for the same part replacement. Anyways, I'm really glad the video helped.
I live in Naples, Fl. There's only one week a year that it "might" be possible for my coolant temperature to drop below 77°F and that week was three months ago. Guess I'll hold off cleaning my throttle bodies until Jan 2022. Very odd that has to be the case when the next step is to start the car and wait until it's warmed up (only 2nd step because confirming your coolant is below 77° is apparently #1).
This video's processes seem much simpler, even though there are still many steps. At least there's no coolant temp mention. I'll have to look it up in the FSM to see if that is even mentioned. Doesn't make sense that the coolant temp would have a minimum that extreme that you must start with unless they're just trying to stress that it's important not to do it after driving around with a warmer engine. ruclips.net/video/TZJfWQLGUZI/видео.html
Hey Danhoven, For the idle air volume learning, the coolant temp requirement is #1 on the list at 2:43. (must be > 70C / 158F) As for the throttle valve closed position learning, the FSM implies a 40C / 104F engine coolant temperature increase is what the ECM is required. Don't worry too much about the closed throttle position learning, it happens every time the criteria is met. The next time you go for a drive, open your door and then turn the car off. You will hear the throttle body close and open.
@@MotorvateDIY Thanks for the reply, and sorry for my tardiness in getting back to you. Now for my nightmare story, but with a happy ending. I'm a great plumber, tradesman, but I'm a youtube mechanic on my car. When I am put on a pill of some sort, or change my diet in some sort of way, I document it somehow to more easily troubleshoot anything abnormal (I even do my bills via spreadsheet)... I never wanted to touch my plugs at the same time I did my throttle bodies, and MAFs because for me, a novice at best, it'd be way too hard to backtrack and fix something I screwed up. The crazy routine of setting the throttle positions, pedal, etc, added to that means yet another thing to worry about, and there was issues that looked like a faulty learn on my OBD2 thingy. Luckily for me in one way, I video most everything I do on my car. Last Saturday I cleaned my throttle bodies and MAF's. Since so many people said it's the best time change the spark plugs, I went ahead and did that too (all of which for the first time. Even in just throwing in the new air filters). The entire process took about an hour and a half, but when I started my car it shook BAD. It kept stalling and the idle was crazy high. I had to keep briefly putting the pedal to the floor since to me it seemed stuck open. Tried the relearn a couple of times. Disconnected the negative a few times. Nothing helped. The only thing I didn't do as everyone shows in their videos was properly torgue the plugs (actually, EVERY video I've seen, no one torques them, but does them by feel). I got the OEM plugs but despite them supposedly being pre-gapped, I had to gap them and had a wire gapper disc thingy. So at engine start and with the horrid outcome, I figured maybe it was a bad torgue or bad gap. I nearly instantly had 5 codes. One was something about learning (which is where I think it was stuck in learning). There were a couple about random misfires and one about my evap. I wasn't able to torque them due to not having a long enough ratchet extension so went down to autozone Saturday night and bought an 18" and a different type of gap tool to get ready for the rework the next day. Well, later that night, I referenced my videos and the first of about 70 that I opened showed me disconnected the PCV hose to more easily get to cylinder #1. I froze like a man that just stepped on a bouncing Betty and tried to remember if I reconnected it. I live with roomies, so I just had to confirm at this point and ran down near 1am popped my hood and turned the flash light in that direction. Sure enough, I forgot to plug it back in... I ran up stairs and started to look up symptoms of not having that connected and better learned what it is. All of which sounded like what I was experiencing and could hardly sleep. Soon as I woke up I fixed my idiocy and it started and stayed started with no more stalls. The idle was slightly high but consistent. I did the volume relearn again and never felt it so smooth. Idle was between 600-650 and have driven it a few days without any issues with no more lights/codes coming back after clearing them. One minute I'm thinking how incredibly cursed I must be and the other I'm thinking how incredibly blessed and lucky I am for finding that video of me disconnecting that hose. One other note, that initially I thought I was stuck in learning mode somehow was that my trip that night to Autozone my engine light started blinking. I drove it 7 miles out and then back home only to then learn how serious that was and that it wasn' anything to do with not exiting a learning phase that I tried without a hose connected to my PCV!!! Hahaha, but not haha. ;) Thanks for the great vidz and your reply! This weekend I change my oil, flush the coolant and power steering. I'll have to look through your channel in hopes to find a way to disconnect my thermostat and somehow bypass for my heater flush (new hoses all around too with aluminum couplers). From watching videos on the G37 I see so many people compain how long it takes for the thermostat to open and in the shade here it's hot. I leave for work at 5:30 am and it's 80° outside so all these temp dependent things are my only issue. I bought a couple of kits so plan on splicing in a flush unit and disonnect the hoses for the fire block just outside the firewall and then maybe seringe feeding it before taking it out about putting on my news hoses.
Hey Danhoven, I really enjoyed reading that! You are a good story teller. Taking pictures or video before and while you work is an excellent idea and I did the same when I would do things I hadn't done before. Anyways, good luck on your next project :)
hi..please help..is it bad for my car if i will not do the 3rd procedure? because i have an old battery and i dont have enough money now to buy a new one so i cant do the laat procedure...hope to hear from you soon..thanks.
Awesome... Thanks for subbing! For the making of that video, I shot it 5 or 6 times to get the right camera angle... and that is why I ended up cleaning a clean throttle body!
Great video very professional. Just a quick question, In the FSM it doesn't say to turn the car on for the throttle valve closed position learning. It just saids to turn ignition switch on and than off and wait at least 10 seconds to hear the throttle valve move by listening to operation sound. I notice you started the car in this video is that really necessary???
Hey luis lopez, Thanks for your kinds words on the video! Here are the instructions from the FSM on my 2011 G37 on page EC-26-27 THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING WITHOUT CONSULT-III 1. Start the engine. NOTE: Engine coolant temperature is 25°C (77°F) or less before engine starts. 2. Warm up the engine. NOTE: Raise engine coolant temperature until it reaches 65°C (149°F) or more. 3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. Check that throttle valve moves during the above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. What year, make and model is your car? I would like to see if Nissan/Infiniti changed the process in the FSM. Thanks for pointing this out!
My car is a 2008 g35s infinity. The reason I asked is because I was going to be cleaning my throttle bodies which I did yesterday. I found that by disconnecting the negative cable from battery and pumping the brake pedal a few times I didn't have to do anything else because Idle dropped to 650 after car warmed up. I also opened butterfly numerous of times while cleaning.Your instructions are very professional though.@@MotorvateDIY
I wanted to clean the throttle body on my X3 but it seems like more can go wrong than good. My car idles beautifully right now. The only reason I wanted to tackle the throttle body is because I replaced my coils and sparks and cleaned the MAF sensor.
Hey Mike Lesesne, These steps only work on a Nissan or Infiniti from 2003/2004+ BMW (you mentioned X3) may or may not have a similar procedure. If everything is running well, then there is nothing else you need to do. :)
Motorvate DIY yea. I'm just so geeked that I know how to work on my own car now. I even taught myself how to paint and repainted my front bumper. This is all to save $$$$😔
Thanks for this resource but im worried I got in over my head. I have an '08 g35x (vq35hr) and followed the steps to clean my throttle body as well as a couple other things (recharge air filter, and clean mass air flow sensor). I got to step two and after the coolant warmed up my car keeps revving between 1100 and 2000 rpm when idling. I'm going to retry the steps once the coolant cools down but thought I would reach out to you to see if there is anything you can think off that might be the issue. Thanks in advance.
That's odd. The only time I have seen what you describe is on a 2007 G35 (VQ35HR) as that version of the ECU has a bug in it and can't do the idle air volume learning. Is there any chance your ECU is from a 2007?
The only solution I know of is to update the ECU to the latest version, but some dealers don't like to do that. Eugene at Enthusiast Auto Care (vq37tt.com) has done this update for a few folks here who had the same problem. I know Eugene well and is very knowledgeable on the G/Z platform. So, either the dealer or Eugene are your options. Good luck!
At 4:22 you say after the SES light stays on, release the accelerator pedal and start the car. Normally you have to hold the brake down the start the car. Does the car not require you to step on the brake to start the car during the procedure?
You are correct... I guess since my car has a manual transmission I didn't mention about the brake pedal for the automatic transmissions. If you have a Android device and a cheap Bluetooth OBD scanner/ELM327 you can use a free app to do the idle air volume learning: Quick & Easy Idle Air Volume Learning: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.28 ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
Awesome Tutorial, I just finished cleaning both of throttle bodies and mass airflow sensor‘s. One mishap was the toothbrush broke and I had to account for all the missing bristles. Luckily enough none went in far. So on the second throttlebody I just removed it completely and there was enough play to clean it effectively with a rag and lots of fluid. Fortunately enough it idled very funny at first at 1100 Then I turn the car off waited a little bit it through a check engine light up so I then unplug the negative terminal again. Then the car went to 700 by itself. So no 3 steps, guess I’m just lucky...
Hey Ps4 Ps4, If you clean the throttle body, is is a good idea to do the idle air volume learning. By removing the dirt around the edge of the throttle plate, you change the air flow characteristics. The idle air volume learning allows the engine control module to re-learn the new characteristics of the clean throttle body. In your case, it seems like the throttle body might not of been very dirty and the engine control module was able compensate or didn't notice any change. So.... if your idle is normal, it looks like you are good to go :)
Last night I drove home my skyline 370GT which is the same as G37 infiniti, I accidentally switched on after I switched off the engine, how exactly i have forgotten but when I drove it later it was behaving weird. Gear shift not smooth and jerking so today I followed your instructions cleaning the throttle body and doing the re -learning and everything turned to normal. 😅❤ thanks again for your wonderful video!
Great guide step by step. Cleaned both throttle bodies couple weeks ago followed up with the 3 step relearn. Only problem I'm having is that the car jolts after releasing the accelerator pedal while driving. Don't remember the jolt was this aggressive before this, would you know what is causing it. I also did the relearn couple times.
Hey ljaizm, That is a little odd. Does that happen with the car cold or fully warmed up? If you use the cruise control and use the steering wheel button to speed up or slow down is it smooth or give you a jolt?
Motorvate DIY Hey it does when the car is warmed up. I just took the car out for a spin to try the cruise control part but it does not jolt what so ever, if anything just a slight bump when going up and down the speed and it's very minimal. The problem only happens when I let off the gas and very noticeable when driving in congested road when I'm in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Hey ljaizm, The reason I asked you to use the cruise control is to see what happens with small changes in throttle position. I'm trying to figure out if the issue is the transmission/driveline or engine. Maybe do the 3 steps again and see if there is any difference. Sometimes they are tricky to get to run. If you have an Android device and a bluetooth PBD scanner you can use a free app to quickly do the idle air volume learning: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html If there is no difference, you might want to post your question at myg37.com to see other people's experiences. Sorry, I couldn't be more help.
@@MotorvateDIY Hey Motorvate, Sorry for the delayed reply, went out to get an android device and did the NDS III Lite method. I made sure the pre condition were met (Coolant temp at about 210F and voltage at 13.9V). I ran the IAVL via the app 2 to 3 times and it failed. I then disconnected the MAF sensor for 10 - 15 seconds. While the sensor was disconnected the engine idle speed did surge to about 1200 rpm. Plugged the sensors back in after 10 - 15 seconds, cleared the code and ran the IAVL again and no luck, but the idle speed did drop down after though. Side note, my car is tuned by a tuner and idle speed was raised to 825 rpm at idle. Will this affect the IAVL? Thanks
I just cleaned my throttle bodies, made sure everything was tight, also cleaned the Mass air flow sensor, and when I started the car the idle was super bight, when the engine was warming up the car now had a bouncing idle from 1500 to 2500 rpm’s.. what car I do to fix this.. I tried everything and car keeps doing it
Oh Crap!! I guess you didn't see the warning at the top of the video description :( There is a bug in the 2007 G35/350 ECU software and the "idle air volume learning" will never complete, resulting in an unstable idle. Some have been able to get an ECU update at the dealer and other have contacted Eugene at Enthusiast Auto Care (www.yelp.com/biz/enthusiast-auto-care-concord) and he will update the ECU. Too bad Nissan/Infiniti didn't address this issue a long time ago.
hey PanchoPann, my brother has recently run into the same issue after cleaning his throttle bodies and MAF sensors on his 2007 G35X and I am helping him look for a fix. Did you happen to find a fix for your car at all? TYIA!
My qx70 idles around 1.1-1.5k in park. Air filters recently replaced and only has 60k miles…maybe I should try this and clean the MAF and throttle body
Aye boss, just cleaned my throttle body and MAF sensor. My idle seems to be the fine but I gear this whinning/high pitched buzzing noise coming from the engine bay.
Most likely that is from the normal throttle body operation. They use a "pulse width modulated" signal to control the throttle position and sometimes we can hear it.
Great video, I wish I had seen it 4 years ago when I cleaned the thottlebody on my 07 G35X, I had to take it to the dealership cause the procedure I found didn't work, I didn't know about the ecu update, I need your opinion on this, looking for a leak source my mechanic shampoo the engine, afterwards the engine sounds like a vacuum, I'm pretty sure the throttle position lost its calibration, stiff pedal and engine not so strong as it felt before, since they already updated the ecu program would I mess it up if I try this learning procedure? Plase help... tx in advance..
Hmm... I don't know what to say. How is the pedal stiff? It is a drive by wire, so if it is stiff, maybe some dirt/salt has collected in the lower hinge of the accelerator pedal. As for re-doing the idle air volume learning, do you know that you can do it without any issues? Has you ECU been updated?
Great video, at first I thought I didn’t need to follow these steps but I noticed that when braking my idle reved from 1000 to 1500 while driving. And also while parked when reving it didn’t settle so easily
Hey Joel Rojas, Thanks for you kind words. You could see where the car settles to for a few days, or just follow the 3 steps in the video. If you have a bluetooth OBD scanner and a Android phone/tablet you can use a free app to do the idle air volume learning: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html&t
As I see it, there is no need. If you idle is stable and the cruise control operates smoothly, there is not need to clean your throttle bodies. However, since you have the factory intake tubes off for the install, you are already 1/2 way done to clean the throttle bodies, so why not? Good luck with what ever you choose to do :)
You're the best! :D I'm going to clean my throttle bodies now, they started throwing an error and idle is dipping at stoplights, despite everything else coming up great. Car's at 68,000 miles, doubt it's been done before :)
Hey Tim Wells, I don't know if this applies to your car, but there is a ECU update for the 370z / G37 to fix the P0106 code: G37: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10075616-2280.pdf 370z: www.370zcoupe.com/TSB/1TS2.PDF
Hey jamrock dan_data, It can be difficult to get the timing just right... I am glad you found this episode helpful :) Also if you have a bluetooth OBD scanner you can use a free app to perform the idle volume air learn: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
Hey BIG ROCK gaming, (I am assuming your car is a Nissan or Infiniti) Yes. A mechanic can clean the throttle body and you can do these three steps at home. Depending on how dirty the throttle body is, your idle might be higher until you do these three steps. Your mechanic might even have the software to do the "idle air volume learning" in about 10 seconds. You might want to ask. Good luck!
Hey KyiRui, I guess there is no harm in disconnecting the battery, other than loosing your radio stations and resetting your engine computer. I don't disconnect the battery. Thanks for the question :)
Thank you!! Super easy and straight forward instructions 💪🏼 370z idles around 600-700 rpm after I followed all your steps… in any case how can I tell I did one of the steps wrong ?
Great video, im now a subscriber! I had to remove my throttle body on my 2012 g37 3.7 to get to a leaking inlet coolant hose and i needed more room to get to it. I did disconnect the negative battery cable as advised on another forum and after putting everything back together now my car will not crank at all. It just turns over. Help ive already been without my car for 2 weeks waiting on the correct hose. Could having the negative cable off for two weeks caused anything screwy to happen.?
Having the battery disconnected for a day or a year shouldn't cause a no crank condition. Double check and made sure any electrical connection you touched is in the proper spot.
Thank you for your reply, I had to disconnect the throttle body connection to get to the small inlet pipe hose that goes from there to the outlet pipe so will o jabe to perform the necessary steps to relearn the pedal and the other two steps I can't remember off the top of my head but I know there is a sequence you have to perform.
Thank you for this clear and concise video. After cleaning my throttle bodies per your throttle body cleaning video, another great instructional video, I performed these three steps. Now my '08 G35S 6MT sedan, with almost 57000 miles, idles smoothly at 650rpm and throttle seems peppier, more responsive. At first I had some difficulty with IAVL and thought it was due to not getting timing correct. I tried again after fully charging my battery and it worked the first time instantly. Since I have not been driving my much lately, I think my battery was discharged and not putting out required 12.9V at idle. I should have checked this with volt meter. Thank you so much! Now on to your OBD2 scanner comparison video... I need one of those MX+ blue tooth scanners! PS. Any recommendations, does and don'ts for cleaning MAF sensors? When I bought can of CRC throttle body cleaner, I also bought a can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Instructions on can seems fairly straight forward.
Hey Stewart Rydman, I'm glad you got the IAVL to work. It can be tricky. As for cleaning MAFs, it could not be any easier: • remove two 10mm screws • disconnect the MAF connector • on the narrow edge, there is an opening with a wire and a orange coloured glass bead. Spray the MAF cleaner on that and the other wires behind it. This is the intake air temperature sensor and the "hot wire". • allow a few minutes for the MAF cleaner to evaporate • place it back in the intake tube, with the opening (where we sprayed the cleaner) facing the front of the car. • tighten the two 10mm screws (snug + 1/4 turn) • plug in the connector • start the car and check for a normal idle. I will put together a video this spring. Thanks for the update on your IAVL issue!
Awesome video I will be cleaning my throttle bodies next week. I was wondering if I have to do the 3 step procedures if I have an uprev tune on it?? Thank you for your help
Hey Mahmoud Mustafa, I believe you do. As I understand it, most of the UpRev changes are to the maps, look up tables and adding new features. The normal service functions and OBD diagnostics are not changed. Just to be safe, you could always check with UpRev. Good luck!
I've just check the Q50 factory shop manual, and it only shows using Consult III (dealer scan tool) to do the idle air volume learning, so I don't think so.
Hey rickcstein, Yes, for the older cars more than about 6-10 years old. BUT as soon as the parking brake is released, they daytime running lights are back on. I think new cars always have them on.
Wow I’m so thankful I was just about to buy new throttle body’s thinking that was the issue but I decided to try this out before I bought anything and it actually fixed my problem my car would even kick really bad and I kept pulling out the throttle body’s thinking I had to clean them better but I guess not thank you 🙏
Hey, this works for the 370z correct? - i have a 370z on cold starts it turns on just fine. when i go to stores and car is warm, i start the car but it kinda acts like its not gonna turn on. like it stutters. i have to kinda tap on gas pedal to make the car start. Do you have any videos to fix that? or any recommendations? thank you!
Just liked and subbed to your channel. Have some questions though. Have you ever heared of the throttle body coolant bypass mod? I live in phoenix, arizona , bad heat soak is a thing here with temps getting to 117 on some summer days. Trying to keep my air intake temps down. I was wondering if i delete coolant hoses running to throttle body, will i still be able to do the throttle valve closed position learning successfully? I know it correlates throttle body with coolant temp.
Yes, I'm aware if this mod, and no it won't get in the way of being able to do the intake air volume learning. The only reason the coolant temp needs to be a specific value, is Nissan/Infiniti decided that it needs to be a certain value for it to work. The ECU has no idea of the throttle body temperature, it only knows the air intake temp from the MAF sensor in bank 1.
Hello thanks for the video. I need to replace plugs in the car. If I take out the throttle (because that's how I need to replace plugs, too). If I clean the throttle and I don't touch the butterfly. i have to do direction? i have g37. RPM plays a little
Hey ברוש Generally if you clean the throttle bodies, it is a good idea to do the three steps in the video. The last step "idle air volume learning" teaches the engine computer (ECM) the new air flow values now that the throttle bodies are clean. If you don't nothing bad will happen, other than your idle may be a little faster. If you have an android device, you can use a free app to do the idle air volume learning as shown here: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html Good luck!
As I see it, there is no need to use an oil additive if you use a name brand engine oil and change it as specified in the owner's manual. For a little extra protection you might want to use synthetic engine oil.
2011 g37x here, I did all of the steps to relearn, on the third step, the service engine soon light flashed as you explained, but did not turn off. Idle is where it should be, should this be a concern, did I do something wrong, or should I just live with the service engine soon light? Thanks!
Well I got it to shut off trying the method several more times. I thought it was a different "issue" since the light never turned off while holding down the accelerator.
Hey Matt Jay626, If your idle is normal, then all is good. However, it is not a bad idea to do the three procedures in the video, but nothing bad will happen if you don't.
Motorvate DIY ok nice to be sure. I appreciate you! Thank you for you time and reply. My car is my life. I have an 08 G35s sedan 6 speed. K&n typhoon CAI, Stillen high flow cats, Megan racing y-pipe, and muff delete, car purrrsss and runs awesome even with no tune! I purchased coilovers /rear camber arms and now waiting to install ASAP. Everyone says my car sounds really exotic..I’m stoked everyday driving my car :) soon I want to dyno cuz I’m curious to view my whp numbers. Is there any other mods you recommend? Hope your having a great start to the new year!
Hey Matt Jay626, Sounds like you have all the good bolt on mods. Have you ever thought about a high performance driving school? They are a lot of fun and you won't believe what you can learn in a day AND it is a safe place to drive fast! Thanks for your comment.... now go for a drive and enjoy your car :)
Hi! First off i wanted to say thank you for your video, im struggling to get the service engine light to flash, im not sure if i messed up the process? Is there a reason it could not be engaging?
That part can be tricky as the timing needs to be almost perfect AND the "preconditions" must be met. If you have a cheap Bluetooth ELM327 OBD scanner and a Android device, you can use this free app to do the "idle air volume learning" All steps show here: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html Good luck!
Hello, I have a 2012 g37x sedan and I am planning on cleaning my throttles. Should I disconnect the battery and the remove the connection going to the throttle? Or should I leave it in and clean it while it’s still connected? A response would be really appreciated! Great vids!
There is no harm in disconnecting the battery if you want to, but I never have. Just make sure to open the throttle plate slowly and don't let them slam shut. This may help: G37 & 370Z Throttle Body Cleaning: Motorvate’s DIY Garage Ep.26 ruclips.net/video/ySK99VbSiTE/видео.html Good luck!
Hey Polishedbrother, Anytime :) Please let me know how you make out. BUT, keep in mind the timing is critical to getting the idle air volume learning to work. It might take a few times, but keep trying and USE a stop watch.
After the throttle valve closed learning procedure that sound from the throttle body, (clicking sound) does it remain or will it be gone? Because the sound is still there!
Actually, every time the engine is shut down, the throttle does open and close. I think this is due to the ECU verifying the throttle operation. I think all is well and you have nothing to worry about :)
So im gonna be installing oil catch cans in the near future. Ive seen plenty of videos on this but i have a question. Now i understand the whole install but what i dont concerns the hoses farther back on the valve covers. The ones closest to the front of the Car are connected to the pcv valves and it shows just plugging the ones farther back on the valve cover?? What are those one for? They look like another vent but minus the pcv valve. I dont agree with just plugging those shut. Could you tell me what they are for? I mean i know its a vent but for what and why are they just plugged on these oil catch can kits?
Hey Waugy 370z, Under low load conditions, the rear hoses allow filtered air to enter the valve cover and crankcase. The intake manifold will have a vacuum and pull out the blow by gasses through the PCV valve. Under high load conditions, the crankcase is slightly pressurized and the blow by gasses will vent out through both hoses. There are two types of oil catch cans: vented and sealed. Does your kit have a mini air filter? If so, it is vented I suspect your system is vented and that is why they ask to plug the rear ports. Post a link to the kit you have so I can have a look at it to better understand which type you have. In my opinion, unless you have a turbo or supercharger, there is no need for an oil catch can. For an engine in good condition the factory PCV system works well and you will only need to clean your throttle bodies every 100,000 KM or 60,000 miles. BUT, if you like the look of it, then go for it :)
@@MotorvateDIY I think i agree with you. Because when i did clean mine they weren't bad at all. I was actually surprised at how clean they were. So yeah like you said i think im just gonna let it alone. The car was always serviced at Nissan before i got it and its in great condition. But thanks for the explanation about the back hoses. I always lime to learn more. You cant learn enough 👍 thanks.
Getting the idle air volume learning to run to completion can be tricky. One subber mentioned that it took them 20+ times. Make sure every possible thing electrical is off and make sure to follow the pre-conditions mentioned in the video. You might want to look at this: ruclips.net/video/GSuTPTEDhhc/видео.html Good luck!
I also had the Key remote replaced with a new one AAA programmed it but I noticed it was $20 a very good one is 60 should I go with the good one Because the $20 one is not opening and closing my windows
I did my spark plugs, and cleaned the throttle bodies on my 2010 G37 sedan. It still continues to idle at 1000 RPM after doing these sequence illustrated in the video. What would be probably be the issue with my car?
@@MotorvateDIY Yes, I’ve warmed it up then followed the sequence of resetting the idle but it still idles right at 1000 while in park. It idles at 750-800 when on drive
Your channel is criminally underrated. I followed the instructions and my car idles normal in park or neutral, but still drops to 530 or so while stopped in drive.... dammit I’ll have to reclean the throttle bodies again. (I just replaced all 6 spark plugs and cleaned the throttle bodies today) :(
@@MotorvateDIY For this stuff, I dont have an android device or the obd cable plugin... Would a pc work? also, about the plugin, which one should I buy? I dont want the dealer to rip me a new one to do a simple idle rpm adjustment (it only drops to 500 in drive and even then sometimes, it sometimes goes away after a while of driving) Also when turning the steering wheel (while stopped in drive) the rough feeling is pronounced.
I just followed all three steps in the video after cleaning my TB and everything feels fine. My concern comes whenever I turn my car back off, I hear the throttle bodies clicking like in step 2. If i did the entire process correctly, should they still be doing that when I turn the car off? Should I go back through and do the 3 steps again?
No need to worry. Every time the engine is turned off, the throttle body operation is checked by the ECU. After the engine has stopped turning, they are fully open/closed for a moment by the ECU. This allows the ECU to double check that the electronic throttle body is working as expected. :)
I have a problem with my idle while in D on my tuned UpRev 12’ 370Z. My RPMs will fluctuate from normal 650 to 630 to 580 to 700 it will do this for 2 seconds and return back to 650. It does this when I come to a stop mainly and is intermittent when it does happened. My previous idle used to be in 700-800 range. No CELs. So I cleaned the MAFs / TB but didn’t move the valves much as I didn’t want to mess them up and didn’t perform the idle reset. A lot of build up came off, however the issue is still there. Will the idle reset procedure fix the fluctuations in idle? I’m unsure on if I should do it or maybe clean the TB better. Others mentioned to get a retune. Any guidance would be appreciated.
I think the "idle air volume learning" should be done, since you cleaned the throttle bodies... and I think that will restore your idle. AND if it doesn't, you can then say to your tuner that you have done everything you can and ask him to look into it.
If your HR is an 2007 I guess you missed the warning in the video description... there is an ECU update required to have the "idle air volume learning" run to completion. Some dealers will update the ECU, some want to sell new ECUs and some want to sell new throttle bodies. Also, Eugene at Enthusiast Auto Care (www.yelp.ca/biz/enthusiast-auto-care-concord ) can reprogram your ECU. If your HR is an 2008, make sure all the per-conditions are met and try again. Sometimes it seems to take a few times for the idle to settle.
The stuff your making here may only appeal to a small audience of vq37vhr owners, but its some of the most valuable automotive content to those of us that can use it. Thanks for choosing to post these videos.
Thanks for your kind words!
To me the G37/370 is a wonderful platform and I want to help people save some money and learn how to "DIY" :)
I don't even have a g37 or 370z, im a z31 owner, but it's ridiculous that this channel doesn't have more subs. you earned on from me for your straight to the point no BS tests.
Hey Troph2,
Thanks for your kind words!
I am happy with the growth of my subs, of course more is always better :)
There are some very interesting episodes in pre-production right now: I will be going back to the dyno for an air filter retest (including a dyno run without any filters) and TPMS troubleshooting tips.
@@MotorvateDIY seriously yes thank you for the no bullshit quick to the point editing. This was a great video. Subbed, cheers!
Hey Hexecutable,
Thank you for subbing!
@@MotorvateDIY have you ever done gallery gaskets and timing chain/tensioner replacement?
Luckily, I have not needed to :)
At 80C/176F I typically have 20-22 psi engine oil pressure.
So far... so good!
What would take someone 25-30 minutes, Motorvate does it in less than 6. Well done! The gold-standard for making auto repair videos. Impressive once again.
Hey petemo94,
Thanks for your kind words. Short and sweet is always my goal :)
It’s called editing my dude
No he didn’t lol
Or how they said in the marine corps “ breaking it down Barney style.”
4:30 4:30
I came here just to hear what the reg idle of a g37 sounded like, plus the clicking I hear when I shut it off. Glad to know my G with now 180k miles is running as it should. That being said, I am subbing b/c this channel taught me more about my car in one video than the forums have in the past year I've owned the car!
Hey Jesse Stapleton,
Wow, thanks for the kind words!
You might want to have a quick look at my other channel that uses those cheap OBD scanners and apps to read troubles codes and much more: ruclips.net/user/obd4everyone
Three years later and you're still saving the lives of VQ motors and there owners money! Thank you so much 👍🏽💪🏽🙏🏽
Wow... thanks for those kind words!!!
AND thanks for subbing!
I am way behind in getting videos out, but have been doing a lot of development of "things" us VQ folks need...
for example:
• 20 second install oil temp gauge
• Bluetooth oil pressure gauge, 90% less wiring and 2 minute install
• Real time tire pressure display
• 20 second automatic transmission fluid temp gauge
and a few others under development as I type this!
Easily the best relearn guide for these cars on RUclips. Thanks man!
I appreciate that!
Thanks for this. I think the most important part of this is step 2 as I was able to get the idle back to normal by just doing the first 2. I had done them all originally after I was getting rough idle and check engine light but it turned out to be because I forgot to clip one of the MAF sensors in all the way. After I fixed that, I tried doing them all again without cooling the engine and the idle was still stuck at 1k even after 30 miles of driving. I let it cool overnight and did the first 2 steps starting with a cold engine and the idle sorted itself on the 10 minute drive to prepare for step 3. I think it makes sense that if the ecu automatically opens the butterfly more as carbon builds up that as long as the close position is reset, it should correct itself in the opposite situation. I think the reason so many people say they don't need to do anything is because they end up doing step 2 without intentionally doing it since all it requires is a cold start and bringing then engine to normal temp.
Hey Sean Stratmoen,
I agree with what you are saying.
However, it still is a good ideal to finish with the "idle air volume learning" so the ECU learns any change to the air flow when at idle.
If I had a misfire and changed a plug and coil pack do you think step 3 is necessary? Right now it idle at 800 after warming up.
But above one and lil higher than it did before. I should be good with the first 2 right?
If your idle is stable, then I think you are good to go.
3 Infinitis later I come back every time to make sure I do it right ! Thanks again for doing this
Thanks for thinking of the channel and popping back!
@@MotorvateDIYMy g35x sedan 2007 turn off at red lights sometimes when I try to accelerate and rpm goes up and down sometimes I just cleaned the throttle body and did this video to do the relearn process still doing the same thing I might have a vacum Leak any info why this is happening.😊
My g35x sedan 2007 turn off at red lights sometimes when I try to accelerate and rpm goes up and down sometimes I just cleaned the throttle body and did this video to do the relearn process still doing the same thing I might have a vacum Leak any info why this is happening.
Great video! cleaned my throttle bodies and the car went into limp mode. After performing the steps in this video the car is back to normal less one trip to the stealership.
Thanks !!!
Hey richardlono1,
I'm glad to hear you fixed the issue :)
Thanks for your comment!
when your car went into limp mode did the vdc and slip sensor turned on while driving and the car slowed down?
That's fucked bro lol smh..
how did you do the third step when in limp mode?
@@davidkngdavid5624 did you ever find what to do? Juat happened to me
Thank you!!!!!! It worked for my G37. I replace the sparks plugs, the throttle and throttle body. It put my car in limp mode. After watching your video, I did it....it worked. Only issue now, it that my car is driving on high gear on the highway. I think it's the fuel cleaner that I put in the car. Will let you know later how it goes.
Glad to heat that!|
I don't think fuel cleaner would change anything in the transmission.... but let me know what you figure out :)
@@MotorvateDIY is it normal to go 75 MPH at 3k RPM? My car is an automatic, I am under the impression that the gear should drop to 2k at 75 or 80?
On the G37, with the 7 speed automatic trans and stock sized wheels, at 75 MPH and in 7th gear, the engine RPM should be just over 2600 RPM.
If you are at 3,000 RPM at 75 MPH your transmission might be in 5th gear.
Just count the shifts as your accelerate up to 75 MPH to double check what gear the auto trans is in.
Great vid but i cant figure out how to get that timer on my G37 screen
Hey Richard Manzanarez,
Thanks for the chuckle :)
🤣🤪
😂
If you’re struggling to get the relearn done, do all three steps one after another. No pausing to watch the video lol. And make sure ALL electronics are unplugged. Even in the center console. Finally got my relearn done and it was obvious I did it correctly! Thank you for your help, random internet stranger!
I'm glad the video helped!
Loving these g37 sport videos keep them coming !!
Hey ObeyNigga,
That's my plan :) The next one should be out in a week or so.
This worked! I did the idle air reset, immidiatly followed by the full ecu learning reset. (Do the same process as idle air, but as soon as the SES light begins to flash release the accelerator, then after 10 seconds hold it again. This will cause a more rapid flash and the SES will vanish
Awesome! You should now have a stable and smooth idle.... AND t he cruise control will operate smoother now )
@@MotorvateDIY thanks a lot. I was frustrated when the light came back on immidiatly, but resetting the idle and ecu immidiatly after cleared it all. Slowly fixing all the things that the previous owner gave up on. Next is window memory
Great camera work and lighting. I recently picked up a clean 2007 g35s sedan with 50k miles and most of what you discuss translates to this model as well. Look forward to a battery swap when the time comes. Heard they are a bit of a pain.
Hey Zack Fanning,
Thanks for your kind words. This episode was one of the more difficult to shoot since the throttle body is so low, and your hands block the camera view. I shot the throttle body cleaning about 4 times to get it figured out.
Changing the battery is on the schedule for this year. Last year I shot a video on changing the battery, but didn't like it, so I will shoot it again this spring/summer :)
Is your battery located at the top right of the firewall inside a little compartment with a pop off lid?
If so, then it's actually not that bad. You pop off the pop rivets that hold the compartment in place and then remove the whole compartment. After that you un-do the battery and pull it out. Installation is the reverse.
Invest in replacement pop rivets because they will break off on older cars.
I don't think I was able to get Throttle Valve Closed Position Leaning to run, as my coolant temperature only reached 82F overnight. However, the other two procedures worked and my idle no longer surges after TB cleaning. Awesome instructions! Thank you!
Hey Srick E,
You are welcome and I am glad everything is back to normal :)
Excellent video! Used to complete TB cleaning and relearn on my '12 G37 with 90K. Paired with spark plug replacement videos from AlexKayRN and McGo101. Saved me hundreds of dollars, thanks so much for the help! Please do a DYI coolant change video.
Glad you it helped. Last fall I did a multi-camera shoot of spark plug replacement and coolant replacement. It is in the queue to get edited.
Also, I changed the coolant and need to look at the corrupted video to see what I can salvage.
Hey first off thanks for all you do for the community and for the videos. So I’ve got a 2013 g37x sedan and yesterday after a long day of running errands the car felt sluggish here and there accelerating and then started feeling weird starting up. Now thinking of it when I start up cold or hot it’s been idling a little high. Then after getting home after running around all day and it feeling different and having trouble starting up the car was off for maybe 30 minutes while I got ready for work. When I went to leave and start the car she struggled to start and felt rough starting up and idling more sporadic then usual. It felt shaky so I turned it off and took my wife’s car to work. Now I just got the car and it needs things like suspension work and a new rack and pinion mostly things that have nothing to do with the engine or transmission. I checked the fluids and while I can see I need an oil change nothing seems bone dry or crazy out of wack other then this driving off loss of acceleration once or twice yesterday and now it’s struggling to start and idling rough. After that novel do you think cleaning the tb or having someone do this for me and doing your method should help. There’s no lights on nothing as far as warning lights this just started happening. I hope you can help. Thanks a head of time .
I would start by looking at the battery.
If it is 4-5 years old, you might want to get it tested to see if it has the needed power to start the car. Or if you have a volt meter, check the voltage after the car has sat all night. The voltage should be around 12.6v or more.
When was the last time spark plugs were changed?
You may want to remove them and check their condition.
Start with these items and let me know how you made out.
Good luck!
Hey thank you so much for getting back to me it means a lot. I want this car to be my hobby and my daily so after spending a good amount of money on getting it and running into the suspension and rack and pinon issues I’ve already been crushed on how much I’m gonna have to put it to make it safe and fun to drive but then this starts happening and I’m like omg is it the dreaded gallery gasket issue or my engine or transmission. I’m so glad I found your videos and that you have a g and do some much diy helping everyone of us trouble shoot and maybe save our cars and money. So yeah the battery is prob old. Looks old for sure and idk about the spark plugs but if it’s like everything else on this car it most likely needs to be replaced. Cause who ever inspected it for the dealership or had it before had the bare minimum attitude and did as little as possible to keep the car running to keep passing it on to someone else to deal with till it’s come to me and I gotta spend a huge chunk of savings to get the car where it should have mostly been when I bought it. Sorry I keep ranting. So yes I’ll check all that tomorrow maybe get a new battery and see if I can get the spark plugs changed and see if that’s helps. If it doesn’t should I try to clean the TB. Should I look out for anything else that could I show signs of anything major. I’m gonna get the oil changed too. It needs it even know the level is good it looks old. Sorry one last thing if it is just a new battery and a tune up new spark plugs ect. Is it ok to start it and drive it even with the rough starts?
You have questions... I have my thoughts/answers:
(1) A dirty throttle body won't cause a rough idle, it make it a little more difficult to start when war, but all you need to do is apply a little throttle when you start it.
If the idle is a little high, it ca n be difficult to get the "idle air volume learning" procedure to complete. For now, I would not clean it and look at other causes.
(2) If there isn't a check engine light, it should be ok to drive it for a while with the rough start. The worry is that an engine misfire can cause a rough idle and dump raw fuel into the exhaust and catalytic converters, which is VERY bad for them.
BUT if that happens, generally there will be a check engine light or a flashing check engine light. (means engine misfire)
Again thank you so much for your time. I think I may be in big trouble here and I just got the car. So I changed the spark plugs yesterday and that was an adventure and even got a new battery while I don’t think I needed it cause the fluid I saw on the battery was protector spray and the car lights everything works fine all that. Also when I changed the spark plugs one or two didn’t look that bad and the others super dirty looking and even oil on one of my spark plugs which freaks me out and means I most likely need a new valve gasket. The throttle bodies where very dirty as I had get them to the side to get to my spark plugs. The car did start right up after I changed the spark plugs with no hesitation but did idle high and cause I did unplug the battery before I worked on the car I let the car run for a while to warm up and maybe reset the way it should perform by it self but it didn’t it kept idling pretty high and I didn’t see any smoke or anything no check engine lights the car did smell a little idk if it’s burning oil or what now. I gotta get the oil changed today and maybe try the re learn process idk. So i did recently have the exhaust break or a leak cause one day it sounded fine then was super loud so I took it to a exhaust shop they fixed it for like 200 bucks and then it sounded fine again but we did have a bit of snow here and it turned to ice and i scrapped the bottom of the car a few times and something could be loose or messed up again so idk. Also I read the forums and a guy had a 2013 just like mine same issues rough start out of no where loss of power here and there and it feeling off he took it to the dealership and they came back and said it was water in his gas and replaced it and told him to get better gas and that fixed the issue. Idk brother I think I’m in trouble here in Colorado there’s no lemon law and I think this small dealership sold me a lemon even though it’s a clean title and a good carfax I’ve had the car less then two months now and I’ve already got 3 grand worth or issues to fix with the mechanic that wasn’t engine or transmission related but now I think I might need to start looking for a rebuilt or used engine which there are a few here not too much but the labor would be crazy! Again sorry for the novel 😂 you can tell I’m worried and frustrated. The good news is it goes to the mechanic next Monday to fix the suspension and the rack n pinon and the other issues he first found so hopefully he can help with the new issue of it running off and this almost short periods of limp mode or loss of power/ acceleration and the off smells. It’s sucks cause I literally have an new catback exhaust here and a new rear sway bar and end links and other little things I wanna do but I gotta get the car healthy first😢 thanks for your time and help and again I’m sorry for the novels I appreciate you. I just don’t know what to do esp no lights on the dash and this came out of no where just after getting the car.
Also after starting up the car this morning service engine soon came on😢 maybe I can go to the auto store and see what it says and see the code. Omg here go!
man, this video just perfect, straight to the point, well detailed and easy! thx man my car was stalling and rough idle but now with the throttle bodies cleaned and this vid, car running smooth like new
I'm glad the video helped!
Thanks man just cleaned the throttles my my g37s was stalling at lights only did one reset didn’t know there we’re three tomorrow I will go thru 💯
Glad I could help!
@@MotorvateDIY worked bro thanks
🙏🏾🙏🏾
Good... I thought it would :)
Hey I wanted to add one important step I found that finally made the idle reset work for me:
When I got to the step were I had to hold the gas pedal down, I RELEASED IT for about 10 seconds as soon as the service light began blinking. Then I held it down for another 10 seconds (it still continued to blinked). Finally I released it then started the engine.
That extra step of releasing for 10 sec then depressing for 10 sec is what finally reset my idle and turned off the service light. Without doing that the idle didnt reset.
This was in a 2012 G37xS 7 speed automatic.
Still your vid was awesome and helpful. Just wanted to share this tip.
Hey DoomFinger511,
Thank you for sharing this tip, I really appreciate it!!
It is nice to have a few different procedures to try for the idle air volume learning. :)
+1 here. Had to do the same thing on my 2009 EX35 to remove the check engine light.
Hey LegenDario Ciroc,
Thanks for sharing your experience :)
So if it doesn’t work with the one in the video can I retry with your method ? Or can that mess up the car
Feel free to try that method... You can't hurt anything doing that :)
I'm fulfilling the Like, Comment, and Subscribe trifecta. This video and many of your others are great resources for G37 owners.
Thank you!
This was a fantastic how-to. Thank you for this!
Hey Derek Palmer,
Thank you and I am glad you liked it :)
My g35x sedan 2007 turn off at red lights sometimes when I try to accelerate and rpm goes up and down sometimes I just cleaned the throttle body and did this video to do the relearn process still doing the same thing I might have a vacum Leak any info why this is happening.
Really enjoy your videos as I just bought a G37 S, you seem to know a lot about these cars,do you have a shop in T.O.?
Hey Bigdog Bulldog,
I'm glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching them :)
It would be nice to have a shop, but I don't.
"Motorvate's DIY Garage" is the typical 2 car garage attached to my house.
I am not a licensed mechanic... I am just a guy into cars and video. :)
I just noticed that I didn't answer your question...
I don't have a shop, I am just a simple DIYer and work at home :)
Can confirm it works with vq35hr my idle was 1000-1500 after cleaning throttle bodies. Now it is idleing at 650rpm and cleared the service engine code !! Thank you worked on my past vq37hr as well !!!
Thanks for the comment and feedback!
Same care with test pipes check engine light only blinks 5 times instead of 8 is that a minor cause or not resetting ecu
Before you cleaner then was the code about the throttle bodies? I cleaned it and tried the procedure but the code won’t go away
Wow I'm jealous of your uncracked dash
Hey DanielDaniel1,
Is it common for the dash to crack on the G37?
If so, I wonder if that is more common in the more southern states...
@@MotorvateDIY 07 g35s here and the cracking has been relentless in 2 years of covered parking during the day and not using any dash conditioner. Also diligently use a sun shade and leave windows cracked to no avail
Hey DanielDaniel1,
Wow, I didn't know that... I hope it isn't a future issue for the G37.
Thanks for your videos. After already replacing both my MAF sensors on my 2014 370z I cleaned my Throttle bodies and did this ecu process and everything seems to be working well. I just need to clear the code and hope it doesn't come back. Thanks!
Hey Digital Man,
Thanks for you comment and I'm glad the video was helpful :)
Thanks for the informative video. For some reason it took me several attempts for the idle throttle position relearn procedure to actually reset my engine rpms to normal, on the 3rd attempt it finally worked seemingly. My idle was WAYYY off though for some reason, like 1500-2000 rpms and surging instead of being at ~650. Now the engine is purring like new.
Glad it helped!
This is absolutely the best video/explanation I have yet to see on the internet I did spark plugs on 2011 EX35 and I removed the entire throttle bodies to clean them up and to have better access to the spark plugs. Once plugged everything back on I was getting super high idle, Multiple codes P0603 and P0507 which is throttle body and car was not driving right (studdering/bogging) as I accelerate. So I cleared all the codes using scanner and also performed one of those 3 found some video on RUclips explaining how to reset ECU… my idle was corrected some what but still drives like absolute crap. I will be trying this later on today but I am a little confused on step2, so all what I need to do is turn it on and let it get to operating temperature? Hope to hear back from you today again great super great videos glad I came across your page
Step 2 is a little unusual, but you are correct. Just let it warm up.
It can be tricky to get the "idle air volume learning" to run to completion. Some have commented that it took them up to 20 times.
If you have an Android device and a Bluetooth OBD scanner (like an ELM327) you can use this free app to do the idle re-learn:
Quick & Easy Idle Air Volume Learning: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.28
ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
Good luck!
I'm curious. I've cleaned the throttle bodies in my G37 twice now and have not had to do the idle air relearn.
Could the reasoning be because I disconnect the ground from battery BEFORE getting my tools and starting the process?
Here are my thoughts based on what I have seen and researched on my G37:
Disconnecting the battery doesn't prevent a high idle after TB cleaning.
With the ignition off, the ECU isn't running... Just like when the battery is disconnected.
If the throttle bodies are a little dirty and then cleaned, the ECU can compensate. If they are very dirty, the ECU needs to re-learn the idle air volume learning.
@@MotorvateDIY ah see I was assuming that the TB still recieved some kind of current.
That's why in the older gen vq35s like on my old maxima, just looking at the dang TB wrong and it would fail.
Or maybe it's the ones that use a cable?
Idk I just remember being told/read that you should always disconnect the battery before servicing the TB or else the flap mechanism or w/e may fail.
Do whatever you think is required. There is no harm in disconnecting the battery :)
Just used this to reset my Skyline 370GT. I got it right the second time, as you said, follow steps exactly, i must have been slightly out the 1st time. Thanks!!!!
Glad it helped
Holy crap I'm seriously so happy this time! It actually worked! I'm not sure what was different this time but the relearn worked!
I don't really know why, but it can be tricky to get this to work.
I'm glad you got it!
@Motorvate DIY I am to! The mechanics kept saying it wouldn't do/failed the process 🤔 so I tried it a few hours after I got home..my car still dips when accelerating from 3rd to 4th though..possibly a vacuum leak!
Excellent video my friend. I have a question 🙋🏻♂️,, is the same for infinity 2011 M37s…?
Thank you
Hey ! Not on RUclips much but I’m getting in touch in regards to the 350z ls1 cluster issue we discussed.
It was nice chatting and meeting you !
Cheers 👍
Hey Jahaan,
Email received and replied to :)
I have a 2008 G37S, i needed to do valve cover gasket, and spark plugs so i naturally decided to clean TBs. Before i started the job i UNPLUGGED MY NEG BATT TERMINAL. I did not have to do a relearn what so ever. I was not wanting to use this video. I m glad it is here tho, just in case. TY
Hey Travis Massingale,
That is odd... If you cleaned the edge of the throttle body, generally you will need to do the idle air volume learning as you have changed the idle position air flow.
If you cleaned the front/back of the throttle plate the idle air flow doesn't change and an idle air volume learning is not required.
@@MotorvateDIY i did move and hold open the TBs. Got a super deep clean. I have to weirdest luck most of the time. I was ready to use this procedure. I forsure will use the other videos u have at some point. Ty
Great advice, instructions and the best productions . Cleaned and set everything . Noticed a slightly lower idle and crisper response. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback!
What if your idle is not back to normal? I have still a high idle at 1400 rpm. When doing all 3 procedures and starting the car after pressing the pedal to the floor the engine starts to surge from 1400 to 2000 rpm. I've made sure I have no vacuum leaks replaced all my intake manifold gaskets lower and upper, and just replaced the pcv valve. There is no check engine light and disconnecting the MAF does make the car run more rough but the rpm surge is still there. A surge happens once every 2 seconds after performing learning procedures. The rpm does not go down lower than 1300 to 1400 rpm
What year, make and model?
Thank you so much for the video! You showed me how to do something my mechanic didn't even do after replacing my throttle body! Was suffering power loss n high ass idle. Followed the video n shes purrin now! 03 G35 6MT 🔥🙏🏾
Mechanics have a tough job... each manufacture can have a different procedure for the same part replacement.
Anyways, I'm really glad the video helped.
I live in Naples, Fl. There's only one week a year that it "might" be possible for my coolant temperature to drop below 77°F and that week was three months ago. Guess I'll hold off cleaning my throttle bodies until Jan 2022. Very odd that has to be the case when the next step is to start the car and wait until it's warmed up (only 2nd step because confirming your coolant is below 77° is apparently #1).
This video's processes seem much simpler, even though there are still many steps. At least there's no coolant temp mention. I'll have to look it up in the FSM to see if that is even mentioned. Doesn't make sense that the coolant temp would have a minimum that extreme that you must start with unless they're just trying to stress that it's important not to do it after driving around with a warmer engine.
ruclips.net/video/TZJfWQLGUZI/видео.html
Hey Danhoven,
For the idle air volume learning, the coolant temp requirement is #1 on the list at 2:43. (must be > 70C / 158F)
As for the throttle valve closed position learning, the FSM implies a 40C / 104F engine coolant temperature increase is what the ECM is required.
Don't worry too much about the closed throttle position learning, it happens every time the criteria is met. The next time you go for a drive, open your door and then turn the car off. You will hear the throttle body close and open.
@@MotorvateDIY Thanks for the reply, and sorry for my tardiness in getting back to you.
Now for my nightmare story, but with a happy ending.
I'm a great plumber, tradesman, but I'm a youtube mechanic on my car. When I am put on a pill of some sort, or change my diet in some sort of way, I document it somehow to more easily troubleshoot anything abnormal (I even do my bills via spreadsheet)... I never wanted to touch my plugs at the same time I did my throttle bodies, and MAFs because for me, a novice at best, it'd be way too hard to backtrack and fix something I screwed up. The crazy routine of setting the throttle positions, pedal, etc, added to that means yet another thing to worry about, and there was issues that looked like a faulty learn on my OBD2 thingy.
Luckily for me in one way, I video most everything I do on my car. Last Saturday I cleaned my throttle bodies and MAF's. Since so many people said it's the best time change the spark plugs, I went ahead and did that too (all of which for the first time. Even in just throwing in the new air filters). The entire process took about an hour and a half, but when I started my car it shook BAD. It kept stalling and the idle was crazy high. I had to keep briefly putting the pedal to the floor since to me it seemed stuck open. Tried the relearn a couple of times. Disconnected the negative a few times. Nothing helped. The only thing I didn't do as everyone shows in their videos was properly torgue the plugs (actually, EVERY video I've seen, no one torques them, but does them by feel). I got the OEM plugs but despite them supposedly being pre-gapped, I had to gap them and had a wire gapper disc thingy. So at engine start and with the horrid outcome, I figured maybe it was a bad torgue or bad gap. I nearly instantly had 5 codes. One was something about learning (which is where I think it was stuck in learning). There were a couple about random misfires and one about my evap. I wasn't able to torque them due to not having a long enough ratchet extension so went down to autozone Saturday night and bought an 18" and a different type of gap tool to get ready for the rework the next day.
Well, later that night, I referenced my videos and the first of about 70 that I opened showed me disconnected the PCV hose to more easily get to cylinder #1. I froze like a man that just stepped on a bouncing Betty and tried to remember if I reconnected it. I live with roomies, so I just had to confirm at this point and ran down near 1am popped my hood and turned the flash light in that direction. Sure enough, I forgot to plug it back in... I ran up stairs and started to look up symptoms of not having that connected and better learned what it is. All of which sounded like what I was experiencing and could hardly sleep. Soon as I woke up I fixed my idiocy and it started and stayed started with no more stalls. The idle was slightly high but consistent. I did the volume relearn again and never felt it so smooth. Idle was between 600-650 and have driven it a few days without any issues with no more lights/codes coming back after clearing them. One minute I'm thinking how incredibly cursed I must be and the other I'm thinking how incredibly blessed and lucky I am for finding that video of me disconnecting that hose.
One other note, that initially I thought I was stuck in learning mode somehow was that my trip that night to Autozone my engine light started blinking. I drove it 7 miles out and then back home only to then learn how serious that was and that it wasn' anything to do with not exiting a learning phase that I tried without a hose connected to my PCV!!! Hahaha, but not haha. ;)
Thanks for the great vidz and your reply! This weekend I change my oil, flush the coolant and power steering. I'll have to look through your channel in hopes to find a way to disconnect my thermostat and somehow bypass for my heater flush (new hoses all around too with aluminum couplers). From watching videos on the G37 I see so many people compain how long it takes for the thermostat to open and in the shade here it's hot. I leave for work at 5:30 am and it's 80° outside so all these temp dependent things are my only issue. I bought a couple of kits so plan on splicing in a flush unit and disonnect the hoses for the fire block just outside the firewall and then maybe seringe feeding it before taking it out about putting on my news hoses.
Hey Danhoven,
I really enjoyed reading that! You are a good story teller.
Taking pictures or video before and while you work is an excellent idea and I did the same when I would do things I hadn't done before.
Anyways, good luck on your next project :)
Love this channel brings a tear to my eye.
Interesting.... but why a tear?
hi..please help..is it bad for my car if i will not do the 3rd procedure? because i have an old battery and i dont have enough money now to buy a new one so i cant do the laat procedure...hope to hear from you soon..thanks.
You my Goat Big G !!! Appreciate the help
I'm glad it worked for you :)
Thank you for the super informative video!!! Great to see such professional looking content done so clean and concise!!!
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment.
This is the best video regarding this subject THANK YOU and you gained a new subscriber.
Awesome... Thanks for subbing!
For the making of that video, I shot it 5 or 6 times to get the right camera angle... and that is why I ended up cleaning a clean throttle body!
@@MotorvateDIY Thank you for that dedication in creating this great video to help me fix my car :)
Great video very professional. Just a quick question, In the FSM it doesn't say to turn the car on for the throttle valve closed position learning. It just saids to turn ignition switch on and than off and wait at least 10 seconds to hear the throttle valve move by listening to operation sound. I notice you started the car in this video is that really necessary???
Hey luis lopez,
Thanks for your kinds words on the video!
Here are the instructions from the FSM on my 2011 G37 on page EC-26-27
THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING
WITHOUT CONSULT-III
1. Start the engine.
NOTE: Engine coolant temperature is 25°C (77°F) or less before engine starts.
2. Warm up the engine.
NOTE: Raise engine coolant temperature until it reaches 65°C (149°F) or more.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. Check that throttle valve moves during the above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
What year, make and model is your car?
I would like to see if Nissan/Infiniti changed the process in the FSM.
Thanks for pointing this out!
My car is a 2008 g35s infinity. The reason I asked is because I was going to be cleaning my throttle bodies which I did yesterday. I found that by disconnecting the negative cable from battery and pumping the brake pedal a few times I didn't have to do anything else because Idle dropped to 650 after car warmed up. I also opened butterfly numerous of times while cleaning.Your instructions are very professional though.@@MotorvateDIY
I wanted to clean the throttle body on my X3 but it seems like more can go wrong than good. My car idles beautifully right now. The only reason I wanted to tackle the throttle body is because I replaced my coils and sparks and cleaned the MAF sensor.
Hey Mike Lesesne,
These steps only work on a Nissan or Infiniti from 2003/2004+
BMW (you mentioned X3) may or may not have a similar procedure.
If everything is running well, then there is nothing else you need to do. :)
Motorvate DIY yea. I'm just so geeked that I know how to work on my own car now. I even taught myself how to paint and repainted my front bumper. This is all to save $$$$😔
Hey Mike Lesesne,
Very nice! I agree, it is very satisfying when you DIY and save money :)
Thanks for this resource but im worried I got in over my head. I have an '08 g35x (vq35hr) and followed the steps to clean my throttle body as well as a couple other things (recharge air filter, and clean mass air flow sensor). I got to step two and after the coolant warmed up my car keeps revving between 1100 and 2000 rpm when idling. I'm going to retry the steps once the coolant cools down but thought I would reach out to you to see if there is anything you can think off that might be the issue. Thanks in advance.
That's odd. The only time I have seen what you describe is on a 2007 G35 (VQ35HR) as that version of the ECU has a bug in it and can't do the idle air volume learning.
Is there any chance your ECU is from a 2007?
@@MotorvateDIY Yes, it is a 2007 sorry about the typo in my comment. Is there anything you would suggest I try before taking it to the dealership?
The only solution I know of is to update the ECU to the latest version, but some dealers don't like to do that.
Eugene at Enthusiast Auto Care (vq37tt.com) has done this update for a few folks here who had the same problem. I know Eugene well and is very knowledgeable on the G/Z platform.
So, either the dealer or Eugene are your options. Good luck!
At 4:22 you say after the SES light stays on, release the accelerator pedal and start the car. Normally you have to hold the brake down the start the car. Does the car not require you to step on the brake to start the car during the procedure?
You are correct... I guess since my car has a manual transmission I didn't mention about the brake pedal for the automatic transmissions.
If you have a Android device and a cheap Bluetooth OBD scanner/ELM327 you can use a free app to do the idle air volume learning:
Quick & Easy Idle Air Volume Learning: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.28
ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
@@MotorvateDIY what if we have neither
Terry1212 what did you do with automatic transmission? Just his brake to turn on?
At 4:22 do you pess brake on a/t
Awesome Tutorial, I just finished cleaning both of throttle bodies and mass airflow sensor‘s. One mishap was the toothbrush broke and I had to account for all the missing bristles. Luckily enough none went in far.
So on the second throttlebody I just removed it completely and there was enough play to clean it effectively with a rag and lots of fluid.
Fortunately enough it idled very funny at first at 1100
Then I turn the car off waited a little bit it through a check engine light up so I then unplug the negative terminal again. Then the car went to 700 by itself. So no 3 steps, guess I’m just lucky...
Hey Ps4 Ps4,
If you clean the throttle body, is is a good idea to do the idle air volume learning. By removing the dirt around the edge of the throttle plate, you change the air flow characteristics. The idle air volume learning allows the engine control module to re-learn the new characteristics of the clean throttle body.
In your case, it seems like the throttle body might not of been very dirty and the engine control module was able compensate or didn't notice any change.
So.... if your idle is normal, it looks like you are good to go :)
Last night I drove home my skyline 370GT which is the same as G37 infiniti, I accidentally switched on after I switched off the engine, how exactly i have forgotten but when I drove it later it was behaving weird. Gear shift not smooth and jerking so today I followed your instructions cleaning the throttle body and doing the re -learning and everything turned to normal. 😅❤ thanks again for your wonderful video!
thank you so much for the video. Is it safe to assume that the Q50 3.7L can follow this same steps?
Yes, absolutely
Great guide step by step. Cleaned both throttle bodies couple weeks ago followed up with the 3 step relearn. Only problem I'm having is that the car jolts after releasing the accelerator pedal while driving. Don't remember the jolt was this aggressive before this, would you know what is causing it. I also did the relearn couple times.
Hey ljaizm,
That is a little odd.
Does that happen with the car cold or fully warmed up?
If you use the cruise control and use the steering wheel button to speed up or slow down is it smooth or give you a jolt?
Motorvate DIY Hey it does when the car is warmed up. I just took the car out for a spin to try the cruise control part but it does not jolt what so ever, if anything just a slight bump when going up and down the speed and it's very minimal. The problem only happens when I let off the gas and very noticeable when driving in congested road when I'm in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Hey ljaizm,
The reason I asked you to use the cruise control is to see what happens with small changes in throttle position.
I'm trying to figure out if the issue is the transmission/driveline or engine.
Maybe do the 3 steps again and see if there is any difference. Sometimes they are tricky to get to run.
If you have an Android device and a bluetooth PBD scanner you can use a free app to quickly do the idle air volume learning: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
If there is no difference, you might want to post your question at myg37.com to see other people's experiences.
Sorry, I couldn't be more help.
@@MotorvateDIY Hey Motorvate,
Sorry for the delayed reply, went out to get an android device and did the NDS III Lite method. I made sure the pre condition were met (Coolant temp at about 210F and voltage at 13.9V). I ran the IAVL via the app 2 to 3 times and it failed. I then disconnected the MAF sensor for 10 - 15 seconds. While the sensor was disconnected the engine idle speed did surge to about 1200 rpm. Plugged the sensors back in after 10 - 15 seconds, cleared the code and ran the IAVL again and no luck, but the idle speed did drop down after though.
Side note, my car is tuned by a tuner and idle speed was raised to 825 rpm at idle. Will this affect the IAVL?
Thanks
I just cleaned my throttle bodies, made sure everything was tight, also cleaned the Mass air flow sensor, and when I started the car the idle was super bight, when the engine was warming up the car now had a bouncing idle from 1500 to 2500 rpm’s.. what car I do to fix this.. I tried everything and car keeps doing it
What is the year, make and model of your car?
@@MotorvateDIY 2007 g35 sedan sport 6sp manual
Oh Crap!! I guess you didn't see the warning at the top of the video description :(
There is a bug in the 2007 G35/350 ECU software and the "idle air volume learning" will never complete, resulting in an unstable idle.
Some have been able to get an ECU update at the dealer and other have contacted Eugene at Enthusiast Auto Care (www.yelp.com/biz/enthusiast-auto-care-concord) and he will update the ECU.
Too bad Nissan/Infiniti didn't address this issue a long time ago.
@@MotorvateDIY oh man :/ yeah i tried all the re learns and it’s still runs like shit
hey PanchoPann, my brother has recently run into the same issue after cleaning his throttle bodies and MAF sensors on his 2007 G35X and I am helping him look for a fix. Did you happen to find a fix for your car at all? TYIA!
If we are only cleaning the MAF sensors, do we still have to perform the relearning procedures?
No, just for when the throttle is cleaned.
My qx70 idles around 1.1-1.5k in park. Air filters recently replaced and only has 60k miles…maybe I should try this and clean the MAF and throttle body
It wouldn't hurt... That idle is a little high for a fully warmed up engine.
Aye boss, just cleaned my throttle body and MAF sensor. My idle seems to be the fine but I gear this whinning/high pitched buzzing noise coming from the engine bay.
Most likely that is from the normal throttle body operation. They use a "pulse width modulated" signal to control the throttle position and sometimes we can hear it.
Great video, I wish I had seen it 4 years ago when I cleaned the thottlebody on my 07 G35X, I had to take it to the dealership cause the procedure I found didn't work, I didn't know about the ecu update, I need your opinion on this, looking for a leak source my mechanic shampoo the engine, afterwards the engine sounds like a vacuum, I'm pretty sure the throttle position lost its calibration, stiff pedal and engine not so strong as it felt before, since they already updated the ecu program would I mess it up if I try this learning procedure? Plase help... tx in advance..
Hmm... I don't know what to say. How is the pedal stiff? It is a drive by wire, so if it is stiff, maybe some dirt/salt has collected in the lower hinge of the accelerator pedal.
As for re-doing the idle air volume learning, do you know that you can do it without any issues? Has you ECU been updated?
Great video, at first I thought I didn’t need to follow these steps but I noticed that when braking my idle reved from 1000 to 1500 while driving. And also while parked when reving it didn’t settle so easily
Hey Joel Rojas,
Thanks for you kind words. You could see where the car settles to for a few days, or just follow the 3 steps in the video.
If you have a bluetooth OBD scanner and a Android phone/tablet you can use a free app to do the idle air volume learning:
ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html&t
Weird question. Would you do the procedure after installing long tube intakes?
As I see it, there is no need. If you idle is stable and the cruise control operates smoothly, there is not need to clean your throttle bodies.
However, since you have the factory intake tubes off for the install, you are already 1/2 way done to clean the throttle bodies, so why not?
Good luck with what ever you choose to do :)
You're the best! :D I'm going to clean my throttle bodies now, they started throwing an error and idle is dipping at stoplights, despite everything else coming up great. Car's at 68,000 miles, doubt it's been done before :)
Hey Tim Wells,
What's the error or trouble code?
@@MotorvateDIY p0106. Planning on cleaning the throttle body and the MAP sensor.
Hey Tim Wells,
I don't know if this applies to your car, but there is a ECU update for the 370z / G37 to fix the P0106 code:
G37: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10075616-2280.pdf
370z: www.370zcoupe.com/TSB/1TS2.PDF
@@MotorvateDIY thanks! Mine is a '10, so I'll get it checked out. I'm installing a Z1 intake today, so I'm gonna clean them anyway :)
I’ve been trying to do it is the correct way for two weeks now and I find your channel Thank you very much that was extremely helpful
Hey jamrock dan_data,
It can be difficult to get the timing just right...
I am glad you found this episode helpful :)
Also if you have a bluetooth OBD scanner you can use a free app to perform the
idle volume air learn: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
Great video but one question, If I have a mechanic do it. Can I drive my car home and do all these steps then?
Hey BIG ROCK gaming,
(I am assuming your car is a Nissan or Infiniti)
Yes. A mechanic can clean the throttle body and you can do these three steps at home.
Depending on how dirty the throttle body is, your idle might be higher until you do these three steps.
Your mechanic might even have the software to do the "idle air volume learning" in about 10 seconds. You might want to ask.
Good luck!
Is it necessary/better to disconnect the battery doing this?
Hey KyiRui,
I guess there is no harm in disconnecting the battery, other than loosing your radio stations and resetting your engine computer.
I don't disconnect the battery.
Thanks for the question :)
Installing 2 new Throttle body's onto my 2010 FX35 next week, once done, so i do these steps to relearn?
Correct! good luck on the FX35 repair.;
Thank you!! Super easy and straight forward instructions 💪🏼 370z idles around 600-700 rpm after I followed all your steps… in any case how can I tell I did one of the steps wrong ?
If your idle is stable and when fully warmed up at 600-700 RPM, you did everything right :)
@@MotorvateDIY car runs way better and roars better when driving 💪🏼 the Z can breathe better now. And she starts right up now with no hiccups
Agreed. The initial throttle response is MUCH nicer. I'm glad the video was helpful :)
Great video, im now a subscriber! I had to remove my throttle body on my 2012 g37 3.7 to get to a leaking inlet coolant hose and i needed more room to get to it. I did disconnect the negative battery cable as advised on another forum and after putting everything back together now my car will not crank at all. It just turns over. Help ive already been without my car for 2 weeks waiting on the correct hose. Could having the negative cable off for two weeks caused anything screwy to happen.?
Having the battery disconnected for a day or a year shouldn't cause a no crank condition.
Double check and made sure any electrical connection you touched is in the proper spot.
Thank you for your reply, I had to disconnect the throttle body connection to get to the small inlet pipe hose that goes from there to the outlet pipe so will o jabe to perform the necessary steps to relearn the pedal and the other two steps I can't remember off the top of my head but I know there is a sequence you have to perform.
Thank you for this clear and concise video. After cleaning my throttle bodies per your throttle body cleaning video, another great instructional video, I performed these three steps. Now my '08 G35S 6MT sedan, with almost 57000 miles, idles smoothly at 650rpm and throttle seems peppier, more responsive.
At first I had some difficulty with IAVL and thought it was due to not getting timing correct. I tried again after fully charging my battery and it worked the first time instantly. Since I have not been driving my much lately, I think my battery was discharged and not putting out required 12.9V at idle. I should have checked this with volt meter.
Thank you so much!
Now on to your OBD2 scanner comparison video... I need one of those MX+ blue tooth scanners!
PS. Any recommendations, does and don'ts for cleaning MAF sensors? When I bought can of CRC throttle body cleaner, I also bought a can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Instructions on can seems fairly straight forward.
Hey Stewart Rydman,
I'm glad you got the IAVL to work. It can be tricky.
As for cleaning MAFs, it could not be any easier:
• remove two 10mm screws
• disconnect the MAF connector
• on the narrow edge, there is an opening with a wire and a orange coloured glass bead. Spray the MAF cleaner on that and the other wires behind it. This is the intake air temperature sensor and the "hot wire".
• allow a few minutes for the MAF cleaner to evaporate
• place it back in the intake tube, with the opening (where we sprayed the cleaner) facing the front of the car.
• tighten the two 10mm screws (snug + 1/4 turn)
• plug in the connector
• start the car and check for a normal idle.
I will put together a video this spring.
Thanks for the update on your IAVL issue!
@@MotorvateDIY OK thank you. I will do MAF sensors next then.
Thanks for sharing brother your method to relearn it’s one of the best.
Thank you!
Awesome video I will be cleaning my throttle bodies next week. I was wondering if I have to do the 3 step procedures if I have an uprev tune on it?? Thank you for your help
Hey Mahmoud Mustafa,
I believe you do. As I understand it, most of the UpRev changes are to the maps, look up tables and adding new features.
The normal service functions and OBD diagnostics are not changed. Just to be safe, you could always check with UpRev.
Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY I appreciate the response and information. You are the man love the videos and knowledge take care!
Do you also have to follow this video after cleaning the MAF sensors?
Not at all :)
This is the best video out there. Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
Does this process also works for my Infiniti Q50 twin turbo ?
Thank you.
I've just check the Q50 factory shop manual, and it only shows using Consult III (dealer scan tool) to do the idle air volume learning, so I don't think so.
Are you saying that having the parking brake on before startup shuts off the Daytime running lights?
Hey rickcstein,
Yes, for the older cars more than about 6-10 years old. BUT as soon as the parking brake is released, they daytime running lights are back on.
I think new cars always have them on.
Wow I’m so thankful I was just about to buy new throttle body’s thinking that was the issue but I decided to try this out before I bought anything and it actually fixed my problem my car would even kick really bad and I kept pulling out the throttle body’s thinking I had to clean them better but I guess not thank you 🙏
Hey Juan,
Comments like this make my day! Thanks for letting me know.
thanks for the vid. Everything worked . I think you became my personal RUclips mechanic for my g37 lollol
I love that... thanks!
Hey, this works for the 370z correct?
- i have a 370z
on cold starts it turns on just fine.
when i go to stores and car is warm, i start the car but it kinda acts like its not gonna turn on. like it stutters.
i have to kinda tap on gas pedal to make the car start.
Do you have any videos to fix that?
or any recommendations?
thank you!
Correct! What you describe are the common symptoms of a dirty throttle body.
Just liked and subbed to your channel. Have some questions though. Have you ever heared of the throttle body coolant bypass mod? I live in phoenix, arizona , bad heat soak is a thing here with temps getting to 117 on some summer days. Trying to keep my air intake temps down. I was wondering if i delete coolant hoses running to throttle body, will i still be able to do the throttle valve closed position learning successfully? I know it correlates throttle body with coolant temp.
Yes, I'm aware if this mod, and no it won't get in the way of being able to do the intake air volume learning.
The only reason the coolant temp needs to be a specific value, is Nissan/Infiniti decided that it needs to be a certain value for it to work.
The ECU has no idea of the throttle body temperature, it only knows the air intake temp from the MAF sensor in bank 1.
@ awesome man thanks for the reply. I feel better going about with this mod now
Hello thanks for the video.
I need to replace plugs in the car.
If I take out the throttle (because that's how I need to replace plugs, too).
If I clean the throttle and I don't touch the butterfly.
i have to do direction?
i have g37. RPM plays a little
Hey ברוש
Generally if you clean the throttle bodies, it is a good idea to do the three steps in the video. The last step "idle air volume learning" teaches the engine computer (ECM) the new air flow values now that the throttle bodies are clean.
If you don't nothing bad will happen, other than your idle may be a little faster.
If you have an android device, you can use a free app to do the idle air volume learning as shown here:
ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY thanks a lot for the answer.
I have another question, is it good to use an oil additive even if the engine is working properly?
As I see it, there is no need to use an oil additive if you use a name brand engine oil and change it as specified in the owner's manual.
For a little extra protection you might want to use synthetic engine oil.
This worked on my 2004 G35 Coupe thanks a lot!!!
Hey Giovanni Rodriguez,
Excellent!! Another satisfied customer :)
do I have to clear the SES light P0507 first before doing the procedures or after?
I think so.. If there are any codes, the "intake air volume learning" may not't run to completion.
Hey just changed my spark plugs.. but didn’t do throttle cleaning. Do you recommend a idle reset my mechanic said it’s not needed for new cars
Nope, there is no need.
Changing the spark plugs has nothing to do with intake air flow, so you are good :)
2011 g37x here, I did all of the steps to relearn, on the third step, the service engine soon light flashed as you explained, but did not turn off. Idle is where it should be, should this be a concern, did I do something wrong, or should I just live with the service engine soon light? Thanks!
Well I got it to shut off trying the method several more times. I thought it was a different "issue" since the light never turned off while holding down the accelerator.
Hey Keith Baldwin,
I'm glad you got it figured out :)
Awesome to know this info , I cleaned my throttle bodies 3 months ago! Thank you
Anytime :)
I have a question my friend. I did throttle cleaning but I don’t have a high idle. The tack is at .7 rpm. Do I still need to do relearn? Or I don’t
Hey Matt Jay626,
If your idle is normal, then all is good.
However, it is not a bad idea to do the three procedures in the video, but nothing bad will happen if you don't.
Motorvate DIY ok nice to be sure. I appreciate you! Thank you for you time and reply. My car is my life. I have an 08 G35s sedan 6 speed. K&n typhoon CAI, Stillen high flow cats, Megan racing y-pipe, and muff delete, car purrrsss and runs awesome even with no tune! I purchased coilovers /rear camber arms and now waiting to install ASAP. Everyone says my car sounds really exotic..I’m stoked everyday driving my car :) soon I want to dyno cuz I’m curious to view my whp numbers. Is there any other mods you recommend? Hope your having a great start to the new year!
Hey Matt Jay626,
Sounds like you have all the good bolt on mods.
Have you ever thought about a high performance driving school? They are a lot of fun and you won't believe what you can learn in a day AND it is a safe place to drive fast!
Thanks for your comment.... now go for a drive and enjoy your car :)
Hi! First off i wanted to say thank you for your video, im struggling to get the service engine light to flash, im not sure if i messed up the process? Is there a reason it could not be engaging?
Wanted to add i have a 09 370z
That part can be tricky as the timing needs to be almost perfect AND the "preconditions" must be met.
If you have a cheap Bluetooth ELM327 OBD scanner and a Android device, you can use this free app to do the "idle air volume learning"
All steps show here: ruclips.net/video/OiB9txECWB0/видео.html
Good luck!
Hello, I have a 2012 g37x sedan and I am planning on cleaning my throttles. Should I disconnect the battery and the remove the connection going to the throttle? Or should I leave it in and clean it while it’s still connected? A response would be really appreciated! Great vids!
There is no harm in disconnecting the battery if you want to, but I never have. Just make sure to open the throttle plate slowly and don't let them slam shut.
This may help:
G37 & 370Z Throttle Body Cleaning: Motorvate’s DIY Garage Ep.26
ruclips.net/video/ySK99VbSiTE/видео.html
Good luck!
Does this work for a 2005 Q45 Infiniti ?
Hey Polishedbrother,
I just check the 05 Q45 factory shop manual and the steps are exactly the same, so YES :)
Motorvate DIY
I really appreciate you following up thank you for that.👍🏾
Hey Polishedbrother,
Anytime :)
Please let me know how you make out. BUT, keep in mind the timing is critical to getting the idle air volume learning to work. It might take a few times, but keep trying and USE a stop watch.
After the throttle valve closed learning procedure that sound from the throttle body, (clicking sound) does it remain or will it be gone? Because the sound is still there!
Actually, every time the engine is shut down, the throttle does open and close. I think this is due to the ECU verifying the throttle operation.
I think all is well and you have nothing to worry about :)
So im gonna be installing oil catch cans in the near future. Ive seen plenty of videos on this but i have a question. Now i understand the whole install but what i dont concerns the hoses farther back on the valve covers. The ones closest to the front of the Car are connected to the pcv valves and it shows just plugging the ones farther back on the valve cover?? What are those one for? They look like another vent but minus the pcv valve. I dont agree with just plugging those shut. Could you tell me what they are for? I mean i know its a vent but for what and why are they just plugged on these oil catch can kits?
Hey Waugy 370z,
Under low load conditions, the rear hoses allow filtered air to enter the valve cover and crankcase. The intake manifold will have a vacuum and pull out the blow by gasses through the PCV valve.
Under high load conditions, the crankcase is slightly pressurized and the blow by gasses will vent out through both hoses.
There are two types of oil catch cans: vented and sealed.
Does your kit have a mini air filter? If so, it is vented
I suspect your system is vented and that is why they ask to plug the rear ports.
Post a link to the kit you have so I can have a look at it to better understand which type you have.
In my opinion, unless you have a turbo or supercharger, there is no need for an oil catch can.
For an engine in good condition the factory PCV system works well and you will only need to clean your throttle bodies every 100,000 KM or 60,000 miles.
BUT, if you like the look of it, then go for it :)
@@MotorvateDIY I think i agree with you. Because when i did clean mine they weren't bad at all. I was actually surprised at how clean they were. So yeah like you said i think im just gonna let it alone. The car was always serviced at Nissan before i got it and its in great condition. But thanks for the explanation about the back hoses. I always lime to learn more. You cant learn enough 👍 thanks.
Anytime :)
you think any codes or any problems could occur when changing spark plugs or no?
Hey cortez carti,
As long as you follow the normal process, there shouldn't be any trouble codes.
I have 03 G35 and this procedure hasn’t worked yet for me, any suggestions Motorvate?
Getting the idle air volume learning to run to completion can be tricky. One subber mentioned that it took them 20+ times.
Make sure every possible thing electrical is off and make sure to follow the pre-conditions mentioned in the video.
You might want to look at this: ruclips.net/video/GSuTPTEDhhc/видео.html
Good luck!
I also had the Key remote replaced with a new one AAA programmed it but I noticed it was $20 a very good one is 60 should I go with the good one Because the $20 one is not opening and closing my windows
I don't have any experience with replacement key fobs, so I'm afraid I can't be any help. Sorry!
I did my spark plugs, and cleaned the throttle bodies on my 2010 G37 sedan. It still continues to idle at 1000 RPM after doing these sequence illustrated in the video. What would be probably be the issue with my car?
Is the engine fully warmed up when it idles at 1,000 RPM?
@@MotorvateDIY Yes, I’ve warmed it up then followed the sequence of resetting the idle but it still idles right at 1000 while in park. It idles at 750-800 when on drive
If you have done the idle air volume learning, I don't know why the idle is higher than spec.
However, I don't think it will hurt anything.
Very informative, does one need to do all the 3 methods or any one!?
All three are best... It may or may not run well if steps are skipped.
Your channel is criminally underrated.
I followed the instructions and my car idles normal in park or neutral, but still drops to 530 or so while stopped in drive.... dammit I’ll have to reclean the throttle bodies again. (I just replaced all 6 spark plugs and cleaned the throttle bodies today) :(
Wow... thanks for your kind words!
You can use NDSIII to increase your idle:
nisscan.com/NDSIII/index.php?content=idleadjust
@@MotorvateDIY For this stuff, I dont have an android device or the obd cable plugin... Would a pc work? also, about the plugin, which one should I buy?
I dont want the dealer to rip me a new one to do a simple idle rpm adjustment (it only drops to 500 in drive and even then sometimes, it sometimes goes away after a while of driving) Also when turning the steering wheel (while stopped in drive) the rough feeling is pronounced.
I just followed all three steps in the video after cleaning my TB and everything feels fine. My concern comes whenever I turn my car back off, I hear the throttle bodies clicking like in step 2. If i did the entire process correctly, should they still be doing that when I turn the car off? Should I go back through and do the 3 steps again?
No need to worry. Every time the engine is turned off, the throttle body operation is checked by the ECU. After the engine has stopped turning, they are fully open/closed for a moment by the ECU.
This allows the ECU to double check that the electronic throttle body is working as expected. :)
I have a problem with my idle while in D on my tuned UpRev 12’ 370Z. My RPMs will fluctuate from normal 650 to 630 to 580 to 700 it will do this for 2 seconds and return back to 650. It does this when I come to a stop mainly and is intermittent when it does happened. My previous idle used to be in 700-800 range. No CELs. So I cleaned the MAFs / TB but didn’t move the valves much as I didn’t want to mess them up and didn’t perform the idle reset. A lot of build up came off, however the issue is still there. Will the idle reset procedure fix the fluctuations in idle? I’m unsure on if I should do it or maybe clean the TB better. Others mentioned to get a retune. Any guidance would be appreciated.
I think the "idle air volume learning" should be done, since you cleaned the throttle bodies... and I think that will restore your idle.
AND if it doesn't, you can then say to your tuner that you have done everything you can and ask him to look into it.
I am having a high idle on my 350z HR after cleaning throttle body. Many seem to have had this issue. I am on day 2 of troubleshooting.
If your HR is an 2007 I guess you missed the warning in the video description... there is an ECU update required to have the "idle air volume learning" run to completion. Some dealers will update the ECU, some want to sell new ECUs and some want to sell new throttle bodies.
Also, Eugene at Enthusiast Auto Care (www.yelp.ca/biz/enthusiast-auto-care-concord ) can reprogram your ECU.
If your HR is an 2008, make sure all the per-conditions are met and try again. Sometimes it seems to take a few times for the idle to settle.
@@MotorvateDIY Link provided is broken.
Sorry about that.... it is now fixed.
www.yelp.ca/biz/enthusiast-auto-care-concord
Thank you for making such an easy video to follow. It helped a lot
Glad it was helpful!
I have 09 g37 with code p2103 code does it have anything to do with this procedure?
Hi im has to does all 3 after im clean?