Briggs Intek Bent Push Rods
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2015
- Buy head in video HERE -- amzn.to/1IeeQpg
Other side head HERE -- ebay.us/Iopgy6
Intake push rod HERE -- amzn.to/1CQLUYv
Exhaust push rod HERE -- amzn.to/1gP8LtE
Oil Extractor video here -- • This Sucks! PELA 650 ...
In this video I'm going to show you a common repair on a Briggs and Stratton Intek twin engine that is found on a lot of riding mowers and garden tractors that have been produced since the late 90's such as craftsman, MTD, Huskee, cub cadet, Ariens, John
Deere, Husqvarna and many others. The failure on that engine consists of it overheating either because of long duration between oil changes or because of insufficient air flow keeping the cylinders cool. Intern that causes the valve guide to hang on to the valve as
it is going in and out of the cylinder and causes the guide to push out. Then the coil cannot be compressed and the rocker arm not having as much give as the pushrod makes the pushrod bend or break. If that happens to you on your mower you then have to determine if you want to try to repair the valve guide or if you want to replace the entire head. I discussed both those options in this video. Thanks for watching 
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I must have looked a 2 dozen video's. This it by far the best instructional video I have seen! Clear, detailed, informative and to the point without any of the useless stories that the others spend most of their time on. Thank you Foxboss9!
Thanks for the compliment.. I appreciate it.. Glad it helped..
Man. This really helped me figure out the problem with my 22hp motor. Couldn’t have done it without you.
This video saved me big $ a couple years ago. The valve seat did push back out again a week ago and instead of spending $150/head I pressed the seat out and tig welded a bead around the base of the seat and installed again seems to be working great so far. Thank you for the video man.
I pushed the guide out and used red lock tight on it. We will see how it goes
@@billbraski2175 good luck man. My welded fix is still going strong.
Thank you my new best friend. Because of your video, I got mine out through the dipstick. I started fishing and could not believe my eyes when I saw the rod, but not expecting it I dropped it back into the pan. But two more tires and out it came. My lawn tractor (JD LA120) is old so I was just going to let it stay in there and take my chances as I was not about to rip the motor apart on a 14 year old lawn tractor. Thanks again,
I have a 26 hp Briggs in a craftsman mower twin Intel engine. I had the same failure. I was about to install the heads and decided to just check and see if there was anything else that could have happened to the engine and came across your video. What a life saver! I never checked the valve guides. Low and behold, I have a bad head. You do a nice video. I like how you also noted the different style pushrods and their location. Thanks much for the video.
Awesome catch.. Thanks for watching!
Excellent down to earth explanations. Very easy to follow and understand, even for a novice. This gentleman is a credit to his profession as well as looking out for the best interest of his customer. I am impressed.
So glad I found this video. I have a 23hp Briggs Intek on my Husqvarna that keeps bending push rods, and it never occurred to me to check the valve guides. Great vid!!!
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I have a 19,5 HP and thought this was the problem but found the rocker arm stud had unscrewed from the head and the pushrod was dislocated from the lifter ! Put all back right again and the old Gal ran like a top again ! Thanks for the excellent video !
Thank for this video! I have a 24 HP V-Twin Intek and the valve guides have slide out and the exhaust push rod on one side was gone. I tried your trick with the magnet on a stick down the dipstick tube and got the push rod out. The push rod had been cut in half and I got both halves out through the dipstick tube. Saved me a lot of labor time and saved my customer a lot of money. Thanks again!
+Warren Copeland Lucky times 2..! glad it helped out..
Cool video very informative, I have worked on engines of all types for many many years and I have found that the intek engines will have valve guides that have moved in them fairly regularly , it's not because of a bad engine design but rather from extended use over hours and hours of continuous use like cutting several hours only to stop and gas up , check oil and go again , or if you cut really thick grass and cut it low at a faster than what you should speed it puts a hell of a strain on the engine and that causes excessive heat , the aluminum head expands more than the steel valve guide does and it causes the valve guide to move out of place ! Also I had a strange experience a while back while mowing grass , everything was going great, grass wasn't that thick and blades we're sharp and all of sudden my 20 horse ohv single cylinder intek revved all the way and died with a struggle like i had ran over a huge pile of rope and I thought I had , but upon looking I didn't see anything an when I checked oil level it was good and when I attempted to start the engine it sounded off like it was out of time or , what I thought was maybe the oil pump went out , but anyway I pushed it on the trailer and went home and pulled the engine and replaced it with another one , now I didn't do anything to the engine and I still have it , but later this almost happened again and I managed to turn the blades off before the engine died and when I looked the deck had dropped all the way down to the lowest cutting height !! Well guess what ?? The dam spring that holds pressure against the height lever to keep it locked into the detented height guages the little grooves that are made into the side body , yeah those , well the little spring was there but the long part of the spring was missing , broke , so THATS WHAT happened with the last time so my other intek engines probably ok just maybe a bent push rod ?? Now I gotta find out !! So here's your million dollar tip , check your deck height lever handle make sure the spring that holds it firmly in the selected cutting groove is ok and NOT BROKE !!!
My man! Great video, it was extremely helpful. Especially the tip about using the magnetic pickup to to remove the missing push rod, 3 tries and it was out. Saved me a ton of time and trouble. Many thanks.
Good video, its exactly what happened to my B and S 24hp, was searching how far to tap the guides back down and never dawned on me to peen the aluminum....the husqvarna mower is 15 years old, and I really have nothing to lose by trying this, great vid!
I appreciate your in depth analysis on a briggs and Stratton motor
funny how after months of searching for this exact thing it (youtube) finally decides to show me!
Thank you for the information. I'm biting the bullet and purchasing a new head for the cylinder that had the valve guide wander out. Next step is sealing up my shed and putting the mice to "sleep"
Having previously pulled my Intek V Twin apart to remove a pushrod once before...I just wanted to say thanks for idea of extracting it from the oil tube. Got it on my first try! Hours and money saved by that trick alone. You're my hero for the week!
+Scott Scheff Thanks! Seeing that pushrod coming out on the end of the magnet is a pretty good feeling isn't it?! 😁
Yes Sir! Glad no one saw the celebratory dance in the garage!
Excellent video by a conscientious, honest professional!
Fyi it's still helping people. In my case (luckily) it was just the support stud for the exhaust rocker coming loose but your video showed how it was all supposed to be. Quick tighten, check clearances, and fired up fine. Thanks for the video!
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This is my first time doing a diy. This turned out to be my problem...wish i had see this before i pulled the engine...Thank you.
great video, this will help, once I get the right rod. Local shop sold me what I could tell was aluminum rod for the steel exhaust rod. Took it back with a magnet to show, they gave me a steel one, but the diameter is smaller than original. Not much confidence in what I hoped wouldn't be the hardest part of the whole job...getting the part! thx
Have never left a comment about a video. Just wanted you to know it was great for my engine problem. Even got my push rod out through dip stick hole. Thanks!
Perfect!!! I checked the valves for bind, and noticed the exhaust on both cylinders had limited travel (because it was bottoming out on the valve guide). Thanks!!!
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Thanks for the great video - Amazing that you described my exact problem. To add to the knowledge base. I tried the magnet on a stick approach but got nothing. However, next I used my Android endoscope to look around at the bottom of the dipstick tube - voila! I could see it off to the side. After I removed the dipstick tube I could actually see the rod and easily direct the magnet to grab and pull it out. Thanks again for saving me the trouble of tearing down the motor.
Great!!
Excellent Presentation. Im having this exact problem with my 2015 B&S Platinum V-Twin 22HP engine on my Craftsman Z6000 zero - turn with 425 hours on the clock. Ive checked the Ignition coils, the two Diodes in the kill wire for the Ignition coils, fuel supply, and spark plugs. I can unplug the plug wire from the dead left cylinder and it still starts up and runs nicely but has low power , and only the mower deck will bog it down in taller grass , grass that I used to drive through at high speed effortlessly. It runs quiet and cuts smooth right now if I drive it real slow. I will check my vacuum operated fuel pump to verify enough fuel supply tomorrow , before pulling the valve covers and checking the items you described in excellent detail in this video. Thank you very much for this video. And also for you not cussing or using trashy language. Your addition of the info about acquiring a new head assy will be my route if I have bent push rods. Thanks again.
Thanks for the explanation, just ripped mine apart and was baffled by the missing pushrod. Hopefully I get as lucky as you and can fish it out. Fingers crossed
Thank you for the tip of of sending a magnet down the dip tube. First try, heard the click and pulled out the broken push rod. Great video.
Lol. Me too. First try and I got it!! Great tip!
Thanks so much for the info. Thats what happened to mine, lost 1 push rod and bent another. Thanks for getting to the point !
I just used your information to fix my 25 HP engine. It has bent 3 exhaust rods in the last year. Nobody, even the repair shop after a $300 tune up, fuel tank clean out, fuel line replacement (left off the clamp), and new battery. I replaced the carb after the second round when the rod bent and the back firing started again on shutdown. It started to be hard to start again and yesterday it popped on start up and was running on one cylinder. I guess I was lucky. My rods always dropped right into the valley and never moved. By the way. I found the easier way to keep the valve seated is to put a cylinder tester adapter in the spark plug hole and attach an air hose. One hundred P.S.I. will keep the valves seated to remove the spring keepers and reseat the guide and not have to put anything into the cylinder. For others FYI valve lash is .04. Thank's again for saving me $160 for the #1 cylinder head.
super! love to hear that!!!
My guess is that the backfiring is caused by the rocker hitting the valve guide as it is in the process of working it's way outward before the point of failure, short stroking the valve. Then finally it moves out too much and then the pushrod breaks. My father-in-laws would backfire before his failed as well.
Great video. Thanks. I love Briggs engines but i could not believe they didn't make these push rods big enough that they couldn't get sucked into the engine if they bent or came loose untill it happened to mine. i couldn't get it out with a magnet so i had to remove the engine and sump and there it was. same I had a bent intake push rod on the other side about 2 years ago but it didn't get sucked down into the engine.
Just wanted to give you a small update to my situation. I ordered a gasket set, a new head, an oil seal and new push rods. Got everything installed. The steel exhaust pushrod was in the sump and was shaped like a "U". I'm guessing it got twisted while in the sump but I have no way of knowing for sure. It didn't look like anything else got damaged.
Thanks for posting the video that pointed to the source of my problems!
Now if I can just get the governor adjusted properly!
Thanks for the update.. Hopefully the pushrod didn't damage the governor.. I have seen that before. Good luck
This is the exact problem I have. Hoping I get lucky on the missing Push rod. The Head was $129.02 with free shipping on you Link today. Thank you for the video.
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TO KEEP VALVES FROM SLIDING BACK, you can use the hose from compression tester (the kind with a quick connector hose), screw it into the spark plug hole, then put about 40 pounds air into cylinder. Do this with piston TDC on compression stroke. A socket on flywheel nut, along with a handle to turn against anything to keep engine from turning holds it in place.
Higher air pressure fine (remember, the engine normally has much higher) but 35 to 40 pounds pressure usually more than adequate to push against valves and hold them in place.
My neighbour come to me to check his mower for no power. I found a missing push rod. I made the mistake of striping down the mower to get the push rod out. After it was apart I found I could of just pulled it out of the drain plug. I should of watched your video first. Thank you great video.
I fished my rod out of the small hole in the jug with a small extension style magnet. I bent the tip so that I could fish around. It took [what seemed forever] but I finally did find something loose in there. I had better luck after moving the crank to BDC. Thanks for your help.
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Just inherited a free mower with a 20HP Intek running on one cylinder. The cylinder with the rats nest and cram packed full of grass has an exhaust valve guide that seems to have sunken into the head and both pushrods are bent. I'm glad I watched this because I was getting ready to replace both heads with the assumption that the other one might lose a guide at any moment, but now I know the probable cause of the failure so I think I'll assume the side that wasn't overheating is going to last a while longer. Thanks!
Great news.. Glad it worked out.. I would assume you will have no issues down the road especially since you know what to look for now.. Good luck
I really like the Briggs and Stratton Intek engines. I find them to be a great design.
I agree. The Briggs Vanguard engines take the Intek design to the next step.
video is a little long, but after watching it all im glad. lots of good info. thanks for making it. keep up the good work. its all about saving a buck. and you clearly help with that.
+thomas brian Thanks! will do
Thank you! You made it clear what's wrong and how to fix it.
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Extremely helpful video. Thanks for putting it together. Saved me a bunch of unnecessary dollars
Thank you for posting, this was exactly my problem. Also thank you for the Amazon links.
I thought the top one was marked red.
This is what I found on mine thank you for your videos
Nice video. Thx. Rebuilding my Intek right now. Exact same issue. Was fortunate enough to find a pair of nice used heads with good seats on eBay at a very reasonable price. Fingers crossed. No way I'm spending $180-$200 for a new single head.
Thank you so much. This is what happened to my mower.
Nice job explaining and demonstration technique. One of the best on utube!
I just replaced the carburetor on my 15yr 24 horsepower v-twin and I had the red round ring intake gasket but the carb kit came with the stick on intake gasket so I just used both. Seems to be working fine so far.
Completely remove the valve guide and run a very small weld bead around the bottom of the guide. Clean it up and punch it back in. The guide will never be able to slide up again. You can also weld a small washer on the bottom side. They should have designed the guide like a proper insert.
Glad I discovered your channel. from Australia
Excellent video. Just wanted to add something if I may. If you can't get that broken push rod out through the dipstick tube, tip that tractor on its side after draining the oil, and try again. If you have to pull the engine still, turn it on its side on the bench before splitting the engine and thats how I got mine out. Thanks again.
As as you don't have a hydrostat transmission that has a remote reservoir..even then make sure the trans has breather vent blocked off before laying entire tractor on side..
I just happen to stumble on this video and I am very happy about that it explains a huge mystery. Today, 6/30. I had a Tech come to look at an issue I've been having with my mower. After it warms up, with the blades engaged. I lose power. It is a Craftsman and has a InTek v- twin engine 25HP. I have had it for 13 year and this is the first time I have had a major problem.
The Tech tested a few things and found that the left side is not operating and thus I am running on one cylinder. He took the valve cover off and part of the aluminum push rod fell to the ground. We could not find the steel push rod and the other half of the aluminum one. After looking at this video it verifies that the steel and rest of the aluminum rod went down to the engine sump. I've been having this issue for several weeks so I am very fortunate that the steel rod and the other half of the aluminum rod did not cause any major damage. The Tech said that it is probably is in the sump. He had a steel rod but not an aluminum one. He had to order it. When he comes back, and am going to tell him about this video and suggest we try to "fish" out the steel rod. Since we found only 1/2 of the aluminum rod, i am concerned that a magnetic retrieval tool will not get it out.
I'm going to try using a magnet to get the steel push rod out. As for the rest of the aluminum push rod that was broken, It has to be in the oil sump pan. Not sue how to get that out.
Great video man, you tell it so most people can understand what they are looking at, keep it up! RD.
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Thank you for sharing about putting the magnet down the oil filler. My husband just fished out the pushrod like you did. Great!!!
Best video I've seen on this, awesome job!!!
Great video thanks…left head on just peened outside of valve guide….I will do my first inspect after 20 hrs hopefully last that long
Thank you for this video, it fit my problem exactly!
Dullumful 👍😁
Thanks! Your video answered my questions!
Keep it clean! It’s not just the fins on the head! Pay attention to the casting around the exhaust valve, oil with dirt makes multiple layers from the valve cover leaking. This causes insulation and the area directly at the surrounding casting of the exhaust guide cannot cool, only get hotter and hotter. Pay attention to the carb also, if it’s to lean that means more combustion heat. All these mowers these days are running so lean by EPA standards that they are asking to self destruct.
Hello from Germany 🇩🇪
This video is timeless. Thank you so much. Anyway to send you 5 bucks for a beer 🍺?
Exactly my problem! MICE! They built a nest in there etc. the valve stuck closed. One rod is bent, and the other one is "missing!" Thank You!
I had the issue of back firing and low power on mine. 570 hours on the engine a 441777 22 horse. Did the rebuild on the carb, and it ran better but still not well for a week. Then back to the rough running back firing and missing. Taking a play from my old and long gone grand dad. I chucked up a drill on each of the valves and pulled firmly back against the valve seats and spun the hell out of them.
Voila', problem fixed. Afterwards I sprayed a little water into the intake with it revved up to about 2500 and all the crystallized carbon ( the problem) created by a over heating event is gone out the muffler in a big black cloud. 30 hours later its still running fine.
Very informative, exactly the problem I had except it's happened 2 times back to back from the service dept?
Thank u very awesome informative video. Just what I need and how I like them. Wish u lived near Chatsworth ga. I would just go to u
In addition to peening the valve guide, I use a little high temp Loctite on it as well. Have not had an issue yet!
I thought about the hi-temp Loctite too.
Great video. Very informative.
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I removed my bent exhaust rod through the dip stick tube with a magnetic tool. First try it clicked then on the second try it pulled right out saving a tear down. 😊😊😊
I appreciate the video. I wish the heads were still only ~ $80😂
Good job dude keep up the great work
Briggs and Stratton Intek motors have a factory design flaw with the head gaskets, theirs a strip of gasket that doesn't get bolted down in the middle and sucks oil from the valves into the cylinder
Seen the twistie pretzel around the cam many times. Mostly on the 06 ones.
I had this EXACT issue w my John Deere Ztrac 757 today! Was mowing and suddenly noticed that the mower had a difficult time keeping the blades/pto going and moving at the same time.
So checked spark, fine.
Checked pulling each plug wire at a time, sure enough it was only running on one cylinder.
Pulled the valve cover and both push rods bent! Looks like guides are out just as was shown here, going to try to peening method and order two new push rods.
^both of my original push rods are steel!!
Also I found a small very thin spring int the valve cover??? Not sure where that came from!
Pulled the other valve cover and looks like the guides where starting to back themselves out as well!!!
So I’m going to give this method a try, change the oil, filter, new plugs (General tune up!). Install new push rods after seating snd peening the guides and send it!!
Mower is a 2008 but only has 228 hours on it so I’m shocked this happened honestly! I use this mower for homeowner use, not commercially even though it’s more on the commercial style mower.
Any thoughts on the small very thin spring?
And I’m a bit concerned that BOTH pushrods bent on the left head (V-Twin) which again concerns me! How would both bend at the same time?
Interference from one of the other ones failing
Well done video! Best I've seen.
Very Good explanation! thks
Very informative! TY
I have a lawn tractor that keeps bending the exhaust push rods 1-3 times a summer season, sometimes within a week other months apart. both heads will bend them. This explains alot as we have checked for debris causing overheating and oil changes are done often now.
Yep, the only thing that will bend those rods is when there is resistance against them. And 99.9% of the time it is when the valve guides grab the pushrods.
Thank you for sharing
Same problem. I left the pushrod in the crankcase two seasons ago. Drove the guide back in with lock tight. Lasted 3 more 1 acre cuts this year then bent another rod. Used the peening method. Noticed the valve stem was now hard to move in the guide. Ran for about 20 minutes of mowing when that cylinder let go. Opened it up again and found the rocker arm bolt had pulled out of the aluminum. I don't have a helicoil set, so, Time for the new head.
+Richard Tortora You tried your best.. At some point you just have to throw your hands in the air and let them land on the mouse to order new.. :-)
+Foxboss9 Received new head in 2 days. Installed and cut grass.
Richard Tortora !!! AWESOME WORK !!!
Awesome video.
You saved my mower, thanks!
Exact same thing happened to me. I was able to fish the pushrod out of the dipstick hole as mentioned. Mud dauber nest was the culprit. Engine has 725 hours. Thanks
+marvinmadman Unlucky on the Mud Daubers BUT, lucky on the push rod retrieval ..good for you!!😁
marvinmadman qsssssssssssssssssqwwwwwwdwwzqqq to. We cool
Thanks worked great
Good video Good advice
Great Video I have a similar problem I recently bought one of the engines used and its #2 valve assy (minus both push rods) was apart but the valves,guides and springs were in place and I purchased new push rods,put it together, adjusted the valves, and started it up, ran alright for a few hours then started popping and missing with a loss of power. Now I have removed the #2 valve cover to find not only the exhaust rod bent but also the intake. Thanks to your video I found that my exhaust guide is out to far so I put it in as you showed but the intake only has a rubber oil seal so what could I do to keep my new one from bending again? Note the guy that I bought the motor from also said the rods were bent so I am going to try to get in touch with him to see if both valves were retrieved.
Kelly Vance the valve guides are both made from similar materials. The rubber seal that you are referring to is a umbrella seal used to aid in keeping oil from coming up the valve and also as protection from oil passing by the guide and into the cylinder..So,you will needs to remove that seal and push that guide in and peen it also.. The fact it was bought in a broken condition would lead me to believe he didn't retreive the old pushrods but it's going to take pulling the engine apart to know for sure unless the PO can guarantee he got them out.. Glad the video helped😊 good luck 👍
great video
Saved me lots of $$$$$. Excellent video.....
such great info ...thanks a lot!
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FB9 have you ever broke a torx off into Those rocker adjustment nut how would you remove that??? Great video on the push rod. Hammer method works great for me.
Cool video....very informative
hi great video,took my valve case off to find my valve rocker was not on valve ,valve sat still in place and not bent.put top dead center and put back rocker onto valve.spun engine by hand and all seems ok checked other push rod and was ok,have not tried to start engine yet.what could have caused this thanks wayne.
Thanks so much for the instruction. Exactly what happened to the Husqvarna 2452 I picked up recently (cheap!).. grass blocked the right jug, exhaust valve guide came out and botta bing bent push rod..drove and peened the valve guide, replaced head gasket, push rods, set all valve lash, and it now purrs..what I don't understand is why the INTAKE push rod was also bent, although not as badly as the exhaust, even tho the intake guide did not come out..??
It could have came out and pushed itself back in.. Probably should peen that valve guide too..
Dude I almost just replaced the pushrods without checking the guides ! You saved me a headache , I should have known better but .. how do you adjust valve lash ?
Great video. Thank you for posting! I’ve learned a lot from just this video alone. I think I’ve got a similar situation going on with my Craftsman riding mower which has a 17 HP B/S engine. The engine will not turn over to start. My flywheel only turns about 180 degrees while using my hands with the spark plug out and I’ve noticed a banging sound that’s coming inside the motor kind of like metal against metal. I’ve checked the solenoid and starter and these are fine. Could this be a symptom of a damaged pushrod? Could it be a bad crankshaft? Thanks again!
This response is really late... the crankshaft could be bad, but it might be a connecting rod, if yo uh have the means I would take it apart to see
Hi RVdaydream. No I do not believe it shows how to remove the springs. At minute ~6:38 the video blanks out and comes back with the springs off.
Great video. I hammered the exhaust valve guide flush with the surface. I'm still having backfiring issues. Is this a problem? Thinking it's only a problem if the guide it out too much preventing the spring to compress all the way.
Thank You!
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What do you think about using a die grinder with a small cutoff wheel and cutting a small groove around the outside of the guide so it will sit just below the surface after you push the guide back in place? Think the peening would fill that groove and hold it better if you did that?
Great video. Good job Buddy keep up the great work #MudMowers
Great video. discovered the valve guide extended outward. Couple questions, how did you get the valve springs off in your video without a valve spring compressor? How would you get them back on? and you commented the new head assembly from Briggs at around $90. The link to amazon shows the head I want, with the components you show within the box, but now at $190. Your thoughts? Tom DeMarco
would have like to have seen more of the actual work, such as removing the valve springs
Must be 1 in 1000. Our 17 year old mower just tossed one of the push rods into the oil pan. I removed the dip-stick tube and pulled the rod out with a magnet. It was a little nibbled up not not bad.
It's a great feeling knowing the engine didn't have to come apart to retrieve that thing!!!
I didn't notice how you removed the valve springs. Do I need a special tool for that? I have a valve spring compressor for the flat head engine. I'm working on a B&S 10 hp single OHV engine from a Gen Power 305 generator. Thanks.
The issue I came across with mine was a valve seat inside the head came loose and wedged the valve so it couldn't move. I tapped it back in. Now waiting on gaskets and a push rod
Very informative. Thanks for the help. I was able to get my father in law mowing again. Funny, on his mower the intake push rod was slightly loose but otherwise fine. The exhaust was thankfully still sitting up in the head but very bent. No problems at all with the right head. Out of curiosity, could this possible be caused by not keeping the valves adjusted properly?
The loose push rod could be from Mis adjustment however, the bent pushrod almost always is caused by the valve guide grabbing it
Foxboss9 yep it was the guides. I put new rods in and rolled it over by hand. The exhaust rod bent on the first rotation. Time for new heads. Thanks! You have been very helpful!