I've been having this issue with 2007 Volvo 780 for years. Except the 2nd rib from the outside wears down first. Then the outer edge starts wearing away. Rest of tire is mostly fine. Been driving me crazy replacing parts to "fix" this. The latest was kingpin bushings.
Do these happen to be Yokohama tires? Some tires are just tougher rubber on the outside rib so the wear starts on the second rib. But if it’s happening consistently on that second rib my first concern is inflation. Yokohama in particular tends to wear a second rib (inner or outer second rib) if there’s just too little air in the tire. And by that I mean 5 lbs. over the pressure listed on the side instead of 10 lbs. over that pressure.
@MDAlignment They are Roadmaster tires, but I've ran other brands and they all did the same thing...some not as fast as others. Yeah, the tire pressure is likely off. I was running steers at 105 to 110. Driver's side steer lasts like it should, with no irregular wear. Will try adjusting bump stop to see if that helps.
I have gone thru 3 sets of tires and already on my 4th set in two years. Right wears down from the outside edge and the left wears from the inside. Relapced multiple components like shocks/leaf springs/drag link bushings etc and now kingpins/bearings/tie rod ends along with balancing and alignment Was hoping this new set of tires will last a bit longer after the latest updates. Multiple brand of tires were used the last three have been Toyo and Firestone This time went with some Korean brand will have to find out the name once I am back to work. The toyos wore from outside edge of right tire and inside edge of driver side left tire almost uniformly. Firestones had some alternate spots along the outside of right and inside of left tire. And it would eventually grow bigger and bigger and shaking would get worse.
It sounds like the issue we talk about in the “4 forces” video, that the rear end is pushing the front end to the right. The most obvious piece of evidence is how it handles: on a straight section of highway from the middle of the right lane at 60+ mph, if you were to let go of the steering wheel how many seconds before the right steer reaches the white line? More or less than 2 seconds? If it’s more, then just correct the read end at any mdalign.com shop. If it’s more than 2 then there’s more to discuss.
I am having this issue it is one section about 12 inches long only on the passenger tire outside edge the rest of the tire is perfect new kingpins bearings good three axle alignment done after kingpins and bearings done.
The thing is the tire couldn't know when in the rotation you were going to back up. When you get localized cupping it's more likely a static problem, like a mis-mounted or out of balance tire, a bent rim, an out of balance or mis-mounted drum or an out of round race or hub. You could draw a line from the spot of the cupping to the spindle and inspect every component in that line that is mounted to that tire and any of them could be the culprit. If you can't come up with a specific culprit, switch tires and place each component out of order- but still marked from where the original cup occurred- and if it returns and lines up with any of those marks you have your answer.
@@bryond.wilsonjr.4753 I wouldn’t say no for sure. I don’t recall anyone complaining about this with a steering stabilizer installed but that may just mean those customers have different operations and different rate tight turning. My initial reaction is the left tie rod end is already holding the tube tight and the scuffing is coming from movement of the spindle but if the tie rod were held in more dimensions then maybe it would wobble less. Worth trying!
Thank you guys
Had this same issue this week with a Freightliner M2 meritor steer axle.
I've been having this issue with 2007 Volvo 780 for years. Except the 2nd rib from the outside wears down first. Then the outer edge starts wearing away. Rest of tire is mostly fine. Been driving me crazy replacing parts to "fix" this. The latest was kingpin bushings.
Do these happen to be Yokohama tires? Some tires are just tougher rubber on the outside rib so the wear starts on the second rib. But if it’s happening consistently on that second rib my first concern is inflation. Yokohama in particular tends to wear a second rib (inner or outer second rib) if there’s just too little air in the tire. And by that I mean 5 lbs. over the pressure listed on the side instead of 10 lbs. over that pressure.
@MDAlignment They are Roadmaster tires, but I've ran other brands and they all did the same thing...some not as fast as others. Yeah, the tire pressure is likely off. I was running steers at 105 to 110. Driver's side steer lasts like it should, with no irregular wear. Will try adjusting bump stop to see if that helps.
👍... interesting
I have gone thru 3 sets of tires and already on my 4th set in two years.
Right wears down from the outside edge and the left wears from the inside.
Relapced multiple components like shocks/leaf springs/drag link bushings etc
and
now kingpins/bearings/tie rod ends along with balancing and alignment
Was hoping this new set of tires will last a bit longer after the latest updates.
Multiple brand of tires were used the last three have been Toyo and Firestone
This time went with some Korean brand will have to find out the name once I am back to work.
The toyos wore from outside edge of right tire and inside edge of driver side left tire almost uniformly.
Firestones had some alternate spots along the outside of right and inside of left tire. And it would eventually grow bigger and bigger and shaking would get worse.
It sounds like the issue we talk about in the “4 forces” video, that the rear end is pushing the front end to the right.
The most obvious piece of evidence is how it handles: on a straight section of highway from the middle of the right lane at 60+ mph, if you were to let go of the steering wheel how many seconds before the right steer reaches the white line? More or less than 2 seconds? If it’s more, then just correct the read end at any mdalign.com shop. If it’s more than 2 then there’s more to discuss.
@@MDAlignment takes less than 2 seconds
I have a typo above if it's LESS than 2 seconds then the rear end needs aligned at any mdalign shop you find on our website. @@billoodean
Sounds like you might need shims on your trucks rear ens where the bushing is
I am having this issue it is one section about 12 inches long only on the passenger tire outside edge the rest of the tire is perfect new kingpins bearings good three axle alignment done after kingpins and bearings done.
The thing is the tire couldn't know when in the rotation you were going to back up. When you get localized cupping it's more likely a static problem, like a mis-mounted or out of balance tire, a bent rim, an out of balance or mis-mounted drum or an out of round race or hub. You could draw a line from the spot of the cupping to the spindle and inspect every component in that line that is mounted to that tire and any of them could be the culprit. If you can't come up with a specific culprit, switch tires and place each component out of order- but still marked from where the original cup occurred- and if it returns and lines up with any of those marks you have your answer.
Would a steering stabilizer solve the issue?
@@bryond.wilsonjr.4753 I wouldn’t say no for sure. I don’t recall anyone complaining about this with a steering stabilizer installed but that may just mean those customers have different operations and different rate tight turning.
My initial reaction is the left tie rod end is already holding the tube tight and the scuffing is coming from movement of the spindle but if the tie rod were held in more dimensions then maybe it would wobble less.
Worth trying!