@LoganbuiltRaceShop interesting. I've been running mine with the spring and didn't really notice any negative effects. I have my trans apart now and will pull the spring out. Anything I would notice differently when driving?
Any advice on a 2-3 shift bind? Binds on both the 2-3 upshift and 2-3 downshift. I built a couple transmissions but this was the first one I ever built and it's my personal truck. Has tcs servo and accumulator, 4.2 lever and an anteater with tv lever adjusted to 193 psi. It's firepunk comp 2 valve body and full billet trans. I know a 2-3 flare can be from clearances to loose and lip seals leaking but I'm not sure what would cause I bind in both the upshift and downshift. Couldn't tell you what the direct clutch clearance is but I set it somewhere in the middle of the factory spec and my 2nd gear band in looser than 1/4
Check your clearance, too tight will cause a bind on the 2-3. Watch Lavon's video on RUclips he does a great walkthrough on building a tow haul, but he specifically addresses what you are talking about.
The 2-3 shift is the most complicated shift in a 47/48. The direct clutch clearance, amount of return springs used, the type of clutch used, the style of front servo, the front servo spring set up, the 2nd gear band apply lever ratio & 2nd gear adjustment all matter in the timing of the 2-3 shift. This is before you even get into VB timing which is going to vary between brands. A 2-3 bind is caused from the 2nd gear band still remaining applied while the direct clutch pack (3rd gear) starts applying. A flare is the opposite. The band is coming off before the directs are applied. There is no roller clutch for the 2-3 so the timing of this event is critical.
I rebuilt my 48re transmission but got something wrong, hoping you can tell me what it is. After rebuilding it, i drove it down the road a few miles and it did good, but suddenly it looses 2nd, 3rd, and overdrive. It is like it got put into nutral. When this happens if i shift into nutral for a second and shift back to drive it works again for a mile or so, then does it again. Would this be a sealing ring, seal, or would it have to be in the vavle body? Thanks
Here is a link to this exact kit. You can find other power level kits on my website as well under the parts section! www.getloganbuilt.com/product-page/600hp-heavy-towingtransmission-diy-kit
You made rebuilding the reverse servo look way easier than it is, guess that comes with the experience! Build on brother!
Could someone do these upgrades with the transmission in the truck?
The pin for the apply lever would be my main concern.
So when running a FMVB, there is no spring at all on the rear servo?
Thank you for this video series BTW. Very informative.
That’s correct! It just becomes a solid servo with no cushioning spring. And thank you!
@LoganbuiltRaceShop interesting. I've been running mine with the spring and didn't really notice any negative effects. I have my trans apart now and will pull the spring out. Anything I would notice differently when driving?
@@Sargebro387 it just has a more positive apply and a slightly faster release. You’ll likely not notice any difference from the driver seat.
why 2 turns out and not 1-3/4 on the direct band back out?
Any advice on a 2-3 shift bind? Binds on both the 2-3 upshift and 2-3 downshift. I built a couple transmissions but this was the first one I ever built and it's my personal truck. Has tcs servo and accumulator, 4.2 lever and an anteater with tv lever adjusted to 193 psi. It's firepunk comp 2 valve body and full billet trans. I know a 2-3 flare can be from clearances to loose and lip seals leaking but I'm not sure what would cause I bind in both the upshift and downshift. Couldn't tell you what the direct clutch clearance is but I set it somewhere in the middle of the factory spec and my 2nd gear band in looser than 1/4
Check your clearance, too tight will cause a bind on the 2-3. Watch Lavon's video on RUclips he does a great walkthrough on building a tow haul, but he specifically addresses what you are talking about.
The 2-3 shift is the most complicated shift in a 47/48. The direct clutch clearance, amount of return springs used, the type of clutch used, the style of front servo, the front servo spring set up, the 2nd gear band apply lever ratio & 2nd gear adjustment all matter in the timing of the 2-3 shift. This is before you even get into VB timing which is going to vary between brands. A 2-3 bind is caused from the 2nd gear band still remaining applied while the direct clutch pack (3rd gear) starts applying. A flare is the opposite. The band is coming off before the directs are applied. There is no roller clutch for the 2-3 so the timing of this event is critical.
Quick question what company makes that servo
I rebuilt my 48re transmission but got something wrong, hoping you can tell me what it is.
After rebuilding it, i drove it down the road a few miles and it did good, but suddenly it looses 2nd, 3rd, and overdrive. It is like it got put into nutral. When this happens if i shift into nutral for a second and shift back to drive it works again for a mile or so, then does it again.
Would this be a sealing ring, seal, or would it have to be in the vavle body?
Thanks
Would it be ok to run the heavier spring and billet retainer on the rear servo on a ranging pressure VB with the same rear servo as you have there?
Yes that is totally fine just not necessarily needed since the low band (rear servo) will only be applied in reverse or manual 1st
That billet triple O-ring reverse servo is also applicable on the 47RH?
Yes it is just not on 46RH/A518. They have alarmed diameter like the 727s
@@LoganbuiltRaceShop Awesome! Thank you sir!
How much is this rebuild kit?
Here is a link to this exact kit. You can find other power level kits on my website as well under the parts section!
www.getloganbuilt.com/product-page/600hp-heavy-towingtransmission-diy-kit