Great, as always! I've bought some of your products for my GG and they are great, guys! I don't know if you already planned something, but getting an old NES from a flea market gave me an idea, are you guys at some point will make a NES power and A/V module? That would be soooo popular, especially if compatible with USB-C cables.
Is there a video somewhere with your newest kit in a game gear shell going over its features? I want to see how the scaling looks like, is it integer scaled? Does the screen fit as nice in an original shell?
Yeah it does have totally custom size. Not sure how to resolve it. Ideally an automatic detection of overscan data perhaps. Will require logic analyzing and bit of time to test
@RetroSix Thanks Luke for testing.. It does the same with super kick off as well. I have about 40 games and it only those 2 which I have seen the issue so probably an isolated to a small number of games.
Do we still have to cut the 34v wire and remove r29 (r56) and r30 (r57) resistors when installing the new v2 version? I noticed in the video that the 34v wire and resistors are still intact and the site still shows v1 instructions with no updates.
I have a 2 chip board and clean screen 3.1.0 do i have to do the 3 wire solding to where the screen used to be like your website shows? Or follow this?
I notice that Dat0 - Dat3 connect to both the top and bottom of r13-r16 on your ribbon there. When wiring manually do these also connect to the top and bottom of each resistor? It doesn't specify on install instructions the exact placement of these connections. Thanks, Great clean screen update!
Please help. Screen display's wrong colors. I tried the switch in both positions and soldered a wire to csync. I have the two chip game gear Edit: I didn't see the update video. I soldered D5 to 5v, and that did the trick. Looks beautiful with an IPS screen.
Please explain, where is the update video you are talking about? I have stability issues (sometimes going black screen) and I am grasping at straws. So just out of interest I want to know more about the solution you mention (D5 to 5V).
@@thenotorioussplorch9018 thanks. Yeah i know. Had a nightmare with my screen install. Asked them questions about it. Never received a response. Wouldnt recommend getting this screen
Well thats me sold! as long as you have this for the two chip ill be buying a kit tomorrow..
Looks awesome!!
Yep both versions in stock
I just brought a retrosix modded sega game gear with usb charging can't wait to use it
Excellent work Luke, looking forward to when the screen options can be saved.. 👍
Great, as always! I've bought some of your products for my GG and they are great, guys! I don't know if you already planned something, but getting an old NES from a flea market gave me an idea, are you guys at some point will make a NES power and A/V module? That would be soooo popular, especially if compatible with USB-C cables.
I have 2 va5s at home waiting for a clean screen. Im anxiously awaiting the update.
so much easier! great video Luke
What soldering tip do you use when attaching the ribbons?
Ordered a v3.0 screen today.
any updated video for v3.1?
I know it’s not required, but is it ok to remove the transformer with the v2 board?
when will you be getting more kits in stock?
8th Feb
Is there a video somewhere with your newest kit in a game gear shell going over its features?
I want to see how the scaling looks like, is it integer scaled?
Does the screen fit as nice in an original shell?
Great Video Luke. Did you get a chance to test the scaling issue with the excellent dizzy collection?
Yeah it does have totally custom size. Not sure how to resolve it. Ideally an automatic detection of overscan data perhaps. Will require logic analyzing and bit of time to test
@RetroSix Thanks Luke for testing.. It does the same with super kick off as well. I have about 40 games and it only those 2 which I have seen the issue so probably an isolated to a small number of games.
Scale from 1-10 how hard is this for the first time?
Do we still have to cut the 34v wire and remove r29 (r56) and r30 (r57) resistors when installing the new v2 version? I noticed in the video that the 34v wire and resistors are still intact and the site still shows v1 instructions with no updates.
It works with only L2 removed but it's advised still to remove those and switch off 34V on CleanJuice or cut wire
@@RetroSix Ok so still follow the v1 instructions
@@sivanyc yep
I have a 2 chip board and clean screen 3.1.0 do i have to do the 3 wire solding to where the screen used to be like your website shows? Or follow this?
What about 640x480 screen? That'd be perfect for integer scaling in both GG and SMS modes.
Are the 3 pixel modes still available on the v3 version?
I notice that Dat0 - Dat3 connect to both the top and bottom of r13-r16 on your ribbon there. When wiring manually do these also connect to the top and bottom of each resistor? It doesn't specify on install instructions the exact placement of these connections. Thanks, Great clean screen update!
It doesn't make much difference. If you get speckles on screen or color issues you can try them on top, or on bottom, or bridged
Please help. Screen display's wrong colors. I tried the switch in both positions and soldered a wire to csync. I have the two chip game gear
Edit: I didn't see the update video. I soldered D5 to 5v, and that did the trick. Looks beautiful with an IPS screen.
Please explain, where is the update video you are talking about? I have stability issues (sometimes going black screen) and I am grasping at straws. So just out of interest I want to know more about the solution you mention (D5 to 5V).
can a GG with an lcd mod work with a 5v rail only? there is allot of noise coming from the speaker i believe it comes from the power circuit
hi is it necessary to cut the 34V wire for the version 2 or is it just for the v1
Both. Or just use CleanJuice and turn off 34V wire
I get a blank screen but can hear the sound 🤔
Hi. Can you confirm that the wiring for the left had ribbon is exactly the same for both single and 2 chip versions?
Other than SMS pad
@@RetroSix Thanks 👍
How can I tell if I have a VA0 or VA1 motherboard? I saw that this set up is only compatible with the VA1 versions:/
Checkout www.retrosix.wiki/model-versions-game-gear. Setup works on all except VA4/5 at the moment.
Question, your C54 and C55 are empty, does it mean these capacitors are not required on all LCD mod kits?
No. CleanScreen doesn't need it. Others do (some)
THANKS for the info Sir.
How do you change the scaling mode?
The latest ones don't have scaling it's always full screen
Is this finally compatible with VA5????
I'll write the code next week and release a VA4/5 version next week
Hi. Quick question. Do u need to use flux on the ribbon or is it straight to solder
@@thenotorioussplorch9018 thanks. Yeah i know. Had a nightmare with my screen install. Asked them questions about it. Never received a response. Wouldnt recommend getting this screen
Our discord is public and ever question answered in less than 24 hours. Same with email
Looking good!
Is there a way to add the new anti-shimmer algorithm to a V1 kit?
I just converted my console not but two weeks ago.
Unfortunately not. New one has much faster FPGA, and more advanced code. The older version has no memory left to be able to do that
@@RetroSix I see... does the V2 use the same LCD screen model?
@@animetronics2804 yes at the moment. Will be updated to use IPS in few months
When will the V2 be available in the store?
Already is
@@RetroSix Okey, excellent 👍👍😃
@@RetroSix is it SKU GG0015? says Sold out...
Yes. Back in stock in few weeks