Applying a Polycrylic Finish | Acrylic Pour Glossy Finish - Acrylic Pouring for Beginners Episode 5
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2020
- As a beginner pour artist, at some point you will fall in love with a pour and you will want to apply a glossy finish to your acrylic pour. We recommend using the Minwax Polycrylic to to apply a glossy finish your first pour.
This finish, or varnish, is much less expensive than some of the name brand finishes. When Polycrylic is applied correctly, it can give a beautiful top coat to help protect your paintings and add emphasis to your creations.
There are a few important steps to take when finishing your acrylic pour:
►1. Clean the surface - All dirt, dust, and oils need to be removed
►2. Do your finishing in an location where the temperature will be near 70' Fahrenheit and no more than 50% humidity (See our article on Drying Times of Acrylic pour paintings here leftbrainedartist.com/how-lon...)
►3. Use enough paint -If you are using a brush or pad, the brush strokes should disappear after a few seconds. The paint should not puddle on the edges when brushing or there is too much liquid.
►4. Paint 2 or three thin coats - wait at least 2 hours between coats
Don't miss the previous episodes in our Acrylic Pouring for Beginners Series:
✔Acrylic Pouring for Beginners - Episode 1 - History and Science | • Acrylic Pouring for Be...
✔Acrylic Pouring for Beginners - Episode 2 - Supplies | • Acrylic Pouring for Be...
✔Acrylic Pouring for Beginners - Episode 3 - Mixing Paint | • Acrylic Pouring for Be...
✔Acrylic Pouring for Beginners - Episode 4 - Simple Pour Techniques | • Acrylic Pouring for Be...
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Find more answers to your questions at ➠ leftbrainedartist.com
DISCLAIMER: We are ambassadors or affiliates for many of the brands we reference on the channel. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. 
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How do you finish your pours? Do you have issues you can't figure out how to resolve?
I've tried all different sprays and eh, they are ok. I've also done a comparison with the minwax polycrylic and with liquitex high gloss varnish and found the liquitex far superior. For my liking anyhow. It is a bit pricey but when I get it 40% off at Michael's, it's worth it. I will say the minwax I tried was semi gloss so I can't compare them outright do to one being high gloss and one semi gloss. Also to avoid brush strokes I use a foam brush. It's worked for me. Lol. Great video
@@Lexielouwho Excellent. Since it was a beginner course I went with the cheapest and easiest material to acquire. Resin is still my favorite but . . . it's resin. And that isn't cheap or easy.
@@LeftBrainedArtist I'm just getting started and I'm using Minwax polycrylic. The exact type you have because it's recommended by pretty much everyone. I can usually get the first coat done fine and I let it dry a couple of hours before I apply the second coat. But I keep having trouble with it turning to gel on my painting and leaving lumps. Any ideas why?
@@Lexielouwho I'm curious, what were the comparisons? I've used polycrylic many times before and I thought its finish looked good - I wipe it on with a cloth.
what improvement would I find using liquitex? Its worth the extra price because....? It's superior because...? Thanks for the info.
@@tthomestead2763
I would suggest letting it dry longer, maybe your coats are too thick so it takes longer to dry/cure.
The gel and lumps are what happens when the new coat starts to melt the earlier coat and the brush pushes it into a lump.
Try to work it less. Use less brush strokes. Longer dry times between coats. Apply thin coats. Build it up.
Hope that helps.
I have been trying to do some acrylic pouring. I watched several artists, but I did not find the correct info to feel confident enough to do it until I stumbled upon your series, where you touched all the necessary steps to complete such a task. Thank you so much for passing on your knowledge and help people like me who want to try to do acrylic pouring. Keep up the tremendous job of educating novice artists; it is much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful Eli.
Practice on small wood boards, that way you can try different techniques
Great series, David. I think you've done more for acrylic pouring than everyone else combined. Your tutorials are simply the best
Gracias Kris. I really appreciate that.
Greetings David! I'm a newbie to your channel (but not to the art world) and I find it extremely informative. I am inquisitive by nature, so I appreciate you doing all these performance tests with paints, additives, and finishing mediums. I believe it can really help a person target their shopping list so they don't go into Jerry's, Michael's, or Dick Blick stores waving a credit card over their head and purchase a boat-load of items they don't need, don't know how to use, or picked up from the clearance aisle without checking the expiration date. Weird things can sometimes happen with a chemical compound that has outlived its shelf-life and as a new artist or hobbyist, your first thought will be, "what am I doing wrong?!" When in fact, the problem has nothing to do with you or your process, and everything to do with an out-of-date item. So thank you for taking the time to do what most folks don't like to do...starting from square #1 just to work up to the fun parts!! Great job!!! PJ
Thanks PJ. I know I've been bitten by the out of date material issue in the past. It seems to always be blue paint for me. No fun.
What a great series. Very informative , I find your videos very helpful in my journeyin Acrylic Painting. Everyone that just starts and even those that have been around should watch your series. When you are green you grow, when you are ripe your rot. Always stay green and strive to learn new things. Thanks David for the information and inspiration.
You are so welcome Terry. Thanks for watching and good luck!
This is so helpful, thank you for this beginner series.
No problemo.
Thank you for all the interesting information wonderful podcasts. You have very nice hands to look at.
Thanks so much. Glad to help.
Thank you so much for this series! I stumbled upon a pouring video Friday night and was consumed by all of these amazing videos. I appreciate you giving the history and then whys and hows. I was itching to get to do this last night when I went to bed, then found your series and now I feel more prepared to give it a whirl! Thank again for a great tutorial ☺️
You are so welcome Darcy. I love to hear people's story of their "conversion" in to a pouring junky. You'll love it!
Thank you very much. You have helped me tremendously. I love your videos....lots of teaching, not so much chatter about nothing. I like that you are to the point. :-)
One of the many benefits of being right brained and analytical. We don't have time for drivel.
I am glad I found you to watch. You are amazing. I appreciate the way you explain everything you do to us. You are loved. ❤️
You are so welcome Tammy. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you have them. I am always looking for more ideas for videos and blog posts.
You are the best instructor!
Aw, thanks Diane.
I binge watched the beginner series this evening. Very, very helpful. Ready to do my first pour tomorrow.😊
You can do it for sure Lorraine.
Thank you so much for this series of videos! I have found it so, so helpful and really appreciate the time you took to put the info out there for everyone. Right, armed with this knowledge, I'm off to try mixing paints and get pouring! 😊
You are very welcome. Getting starting with all the various information was tough for me so I thought I'd condense the info a bit to help people get started quicker.
Not a rank beginner, but I found this tutorial very helpful!! Thanks so much. Trying to get your name out there for beginners on loads of Facebook groups. My commission for new subscribers is very low, not to worry.
HAHAHA love it Kate! You give some traffic and I'll prioritize making a video for some of the questions you have for sure!
good stuff as usual David - just a fwiw, when I use Polycrylic I find my best result is to just pour it on the painting ( similar to what you're showing), but I put enough on that I can just spread it out evenly by simply tilting the painting until it is fully coated. I use a tinfoil pan underneath to save the run off and put that back into the container. So ... no streaks, brush marks, loose bristles or other types of blemishing, and gives me as even a coat as is possible.
I've tried that but I get cracks that go north and south and east and west all along the painting when I do that.
Dear David, thank you so much for your videos. I have learned more from you than I have watching 30+ videos and trying to figure it out myself. Will follow you until I feel I have got it right because my Granddaughter is taking an interest in it also. Will go back and start at #1 and watch them again. Thanks for taking the time to educate all would be artists.
You are very welcome Pam. Make sure to let me know if you have any other questions or things you didn't understand. I am always happy to hear constructive criticism.
This was very informative for me . I’m just learning how to pour and I haven’t varnished any of my painting yet . So thank you 😁
Glad it was helpful!
Went out today and had the confidence to buy the materials to do a pour tomorrow. That is down to you David, really excited, feel like a child who has just bought the best paint set in the store. 👍👍👍
Ooh, isn't that the best feeling. Enjoy your pouring. Don't rush too much!
Thank you! I've been looking for information on how to finish my pour. This was a great help.
I am glad to hear it helped.
Very good
👍
Oh David , I feel much more confident. in my acrylic pouring, I am going to use the polycrylic finish. Thank you
You should check out some of my later videos about finishes. I have found some better methods for pieces that don't have any silicone in them. ruclips.net/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/видео.html
THANKS! Another home run; you're batting a thousand in my stat book
Gracias Amigo. I do really appreciate that.
The spoon! Brilliant! 👍❤️
Lol, TY.
First of all I want to thank you. I’m so happy I found you and I can learn so much from you. You are a great teacher. I hope to follow you and to learn to do the right things. Thank you with love Elana
You are so welcome!
Hey David, great information on finishing. I have experienced the brush strokes and cracking....now I know why! baby steps.
I have since turned to wiping on my gloss varnish - ruclips.net/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/видео.html
Thank you David. I’ve been researching and watching so many videos and I found this series to be most informative and helpful!! Thank you. Really.
I was also wondering if you have a video on how you created this pour? The green is so beautiful!
Here is the video for that pour - ruclips.net/video/U-DecGv2mas/видео.html
Thanks David. I think I figured out my other issues! I appreciate that you got back to me.
No problem at all. Always feel free to ask Bre.
Thank you for your web series. So very informative. You have inspired me and I can’t wait to start. Will keep searching for more of your videos
You are so welcome Philomena. Glad to help.
Thx so much for this video. Found the other one on finishing your painting first. Info on necessity of cleaning first, difference of silicon vs no silicon quite helpful. Was happy to see tee shirt tech. But will be using the poly. Medium, darn😄. I’ve learned from all your videos I’ve watched. Many thx. Keep posting please. I watch your videos on TV while walking on treadmill. Cannot navigate to like your videos so I look later on tablet to like and comment. Like the details you cover- compare/contrast- brushstrokes seen or not, it’s those details that make the difference in success or frustration of paintings. Thanks for sharing your experiences and letting viewers learn from you and paint with education, really speeds up the learning curve, makes painting more enjoyable..
Well that is some dedication Lana that I really appreciate. Glad to help and I hope your painting are all fantastic or that you learn from them.
Love learning from you. Thank you so much
You are so welcome Cybil. Thanks for watching.
To make polycrylic shiny and smooth the imperfections, use Maguire's car polish and apply is with a soft sponge. To get mirror finish, use the car polish and apply it with a mr clean sponge.
Thanks for the tips!
Thank you I just started to pour paint. I’m glad a found your videos. 🤗
Definitely try Vicky. It is so much fun, and relaxing.
Thank you so much. I am constantly referring back to you for instructions. Not there yet but getting there. Thanks again
You got this Pam! Your Picasso moment is just around the corner.
Great information...thank you!!
You are more than welcome. Thanks for watching.
Hi David, I am browsing Pouring videos and saving a lot of yours when I came across this. I haven't actually did a pour yet, but I have used poly acrylic for finishing wood. These are my tips for a couple of yours and other comments. STIR THE POLYACRYLIC SLOWLY WITH A PAINT STIRRER (so u dont create bubbles) BEFORE EVERY USE!!! I believe this MAY solve the cracking issues mentioned here also!
1 poke three nail holes through the groove where the lid goes (helps drain it). 2 you can use a nice brush (like you have) but it needs to be dipped just about to the top of the bristles, pulled out and put onto the pouring without getting rid of excess polyacrylic. Slowly pull down brush from top to bottom with out lifting it from the canvas (no brush strokes). REPEAT. AND only go in one direction!!
I have used poly acrylic on oil and water based stains and never had any cracking problems. If you want to go a step further, you can sand with a 000 grit steel wool (after 24hrs) then apply another coat. Oh, and to make sure your pour is free from dust you can buy an impregnated clothe just for getting projects dust free. Available almost everywhere! I hope this info helps! Great channel!!
Awesome tips Mary-kay. Thanks!
Great wow
Thanks Alrene. Have you done any pours yet?
This was so helpful! I’ve been using only resin but have been disappointed to lose some of the interesting texture created in a couple of paintings. Being new to pouring and painting I didn’t realize there were so many easy, accessible finishing options that offer different finishes. Thank you for walking us through it!
I think this coming Saturday's video will be on different finishes for varnish (gloss, satin, high gloss, flat, etc.) Hopefully that one gives some more insight also. Since this video, I've transition from using Polycrylic to a watered down version of Liquitex Varnish to remove the chance of streaks and brush marks.
Thank you. I have been looking for something other than resin.
You are so welcome! I have since moved on to using Liquitex varnishes. I explain how I use them in this video - ruclips.net/video/gHWq0Qfo3bg/видео.html
Thanks for this vid! It was very helpful. I’ve made a lot of pours, but have yet to poly them!
Poly works great and is easy to come by for sure. Lately I've been using thinned down Liquitex varnishes and applying multiple coats with a lint free rag. More work but less brush marks.
THANK U ! Needed this! 💕👍👍👍👍👍
Always happy to help.
Thanks 😊 was very helpful 👍
You're welcome 😊
Great info.
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic series! I learned so much from your videos! Can’t wait to get started!
Let me know how your first pour goes Martha.
@@LeftBrainedArtist I sure will !
Minwax recommends multiple thin layers. I use a staining cloth with minimum of three layers. no brush marks.
Works for me.
Good video. I subbed.
Ooh, I'll have to try that Chuck. Thanks!
I've learned a few tricks from your channel but what I want to say is I bought some liquitex gloss varnish mixed it 50\50 with water. I love it gives a really nice shine, no smell I can use it inside and with winter coming on that's good. Just want to say thanks for showing that. It's probably all I'll be using now, applied with a microfiber cloth it's gorgeous.
Excellent news. That's my preferred way to do it now too Eddie. So much easier.
Can you dilute the polyacrylic like the liquitex and apply with a cloth? To prevent cracking and ease of use? Thank you so much for all these videos. You rock!!!! ❤️😊🙌🏻
i got the Mixwax Polycrylic gloss clear yesterday to see how'd it work on my acrylic pour paintings as a top coat. i've been using Fusion acrylic ready pour resin. I love glossy finish but 16oz bottles only go so far. I found that after stirring the Minwax Polycrylic to make sure it was well blended, it was still very fluid. I decided to try pouring it on a painting instead of brushing it on and it flowed easily. Once dry it had a nice glossy finish. I just pour a second coat on it and waiting to see the outcome.. If this works, i'll be thrilled because it's quick, easy and no brush marks. I'll keep you posted.
Ooh, that sounds amazing. How much did you use per square inch do you think? I am always worried about costs.
to be honest i didn’t really measure but i believe i did about 3/4 of a cup on a 16x20 canvas and did 2 coats. i did probably 1cup on a 18x24 canvas and when dry will do 1 more coat. i’ll pay attention to the amount i use for the 2nd coat and let u know. i’m thinking the minwax polycrylic is working out nicely.
i just applied a 2nd coat of the polycrylic…i measured 1 cup and poured it on again, i had a tiny bit left over. it’s drying so i’ll let you know if i think it’s glossy like the resin…..one thing i’m thinking is that paints that have a gloss to them come out glossier than those that don’t. resin might be a drop bit glossier but for the money i think the minwax polycrylic is pretty good.
I'm going to have to check out your other videos. I'm new to acrylic pouring and have done 3 vase pours over 12x12 canvas and have sealed them with resin. First one resin finish turned out perfect so I moved on to my 2nd one same day and accidentally burnt the resin :( third one I thought was perfect but ended up having specs I'm guessing from dust or something in it but the person I made it for as well as some of my other co-workers did not notice this. I like the durability the resin offers but resin can be bit stressful to work with so the polycrylic looks like good alternative, nor torch required!!!
Resin had definitely scared me in the past. It is SO pretty though.
Really informative videos, more than any others I’ve seen, thanks. However, I’m still totally confused about paint density and how to work out what order to layer them, especially with flip cups etc, as what is on the top becomes the bottom colour. Is there a simple list of colours or is it all dependent on the brand’s pigmentation? Does the densest go on the bottom or the top? Help please. Thanks.
There is not a simple list. Most manufacturer's don't even provide that info and then the weights are going to be different based on how you mix with mediums etc. However, I do have a blog post that has as link to Golden's paint weights and you can use that as a guide for other similar paints. This measurement of liquids is called Specific Gravity. That guide is under the "How to measure paint density" section - leftbrainedartist.com/acrylicpourcells/
Just found your videos a few weeks ago. That is for all the help and providing with the confidence to get going. I was wondering, how long should my painting sit before finishing?
Small paintings for at least a week. Larger ones (bigger than 12x12) more like 2 - 3 weeks just to make sure they have fully cured.
Take a finishing nail and hammer it thru the grove in the top of the paint can in about 4 place around the top of the can itself. Excess paint drips back into the can and does not harden in the grove to make it hard to re-open the can. Of course remove the nail after you make the drip hole🤷🏽♀️👍👍👍👍
Thanks Carol. Doesn't the paint dry out with the holes in it?
@@LeftBrainedArtist make sure you only put nail holes in the groove on the can itself. When you put the lid on, it seals the can and holes just as usual. Added benefit-you can use a hammer to close the can without squirting paint collected in the groove all over!!! It’s really hard to explain with words what would be so easy with a pic!! I usually put the holes north south east and west so to speak. To be clear, holes don’t go on the side of the can but only in the groove right next to the opening🤓🤓🤓
Time stamp3:24. You used the word cavity and I used the word groove-same difference🤷🏽♀️
@@carolwheeler9979 Ah, I see now. Thanks. That is a great tip.
I REALY liked the 'old" effect you gave the large piece. I think it would be cool to emphasize it even more with some extra colors and then recover so that you would get an entirely different picture
Hmm, that would be interesting indeed Orla. I've been tempted to do a multi-layer pour with a sorts of textures and colors.
Not only is this informational, but I love the first green painting. A real beauty. I haven't watched this series. Please give me a link the creation video of the green painting. Thanks so much.
Here you go Adriane - ruclips.net/video/U-DecGv2mas/видео.html
Loved this last 4videos. But can you tell me whether there is a "heaviness" list for the colors to help me please? Or is there another of your videos that I should watch? Thank you.
This is the video and the website the video talks about - ruclips.net/video/Z-fauTeq1Y0/видео.html - leftbrainedartist.com/acrylic-paint-density-chart/
I’ve watched your series, great helpful tips. One question I have…do you sign them, put your initials anywhere on the painting?
I sign the back with acrylic markers.
Hi David and all artists here. I find your channel incredibly useful, fun, inspiring, and entertaining. I just varnished my first paintings for the first time, I used your method with the cloths instead of a varnish brush and now I have them soaked in a jar with water. How do I safely dispose of that water? I want to avoid rinsing them in the sink and find a sustainable way to dispose the water. What do I do with the soaked cloths? Do I throw them in the washer? Thanks for your response.
I wring them out well into a container and just let the excess varnish dry and then throw it away. I then use soapy water to clean them.
@@LeftBrainedArtist thanks for the quick reply!
I just started watching you and find you much more informative than the others. I will continue to follow you. I really like the color in the last piece, what colors did you use?
I don't remember exactly but I know one was most likely the extreme sheen emerald and the other all from the same deep green with some white added to it.
I like how you made that look old with water! Could I make it a slightly murky color with a little bit of water based paint, then add water?
I don't see why not. You'd want the very smallest amount of color though especially if it is an opaque color.
@@LeftBrainedArtist thank you so much
Thanks for the information. I ended up having to buy the liquitex varnish since everyone is sold out of the minwax😞
Honestly, for my pours lately that is exactly what I have used.
The liquitex varnish bottle says to not add water, but I have seen that some will add distilled water and apply with a lint free cloth or sponge. I've only used clear spray so far and not really happy with the results. One day I do want to try resin though.
How soon after you do a pour do you finish the canvas with the gloss? You said it takes about a month for it to cure , do you wait that long or until the paint is dry to the touch?
Paint takes a good 3+ weeks to cure for smaller paintings and 5+ weeks or more for larger ones. You don't want to add a varnish till after it is cured or that little bit of water that still needs to evaporate will do so in between your paint and your varnish and you'll get cloudiness, cracking, or peeling.
Can it be used indoors without ventilation? Am very sensitive to many mediums & seem even when using a lint free rag still getting lines or if use a brush then brush lines? Tyvm as learning so much from your videos!
It can. However, my preference now is Liquitex Varnish. You might watch my video about that here - ruclips.net/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/видео.html
Thank you!! this help a lot!! but....if you dont like the way the poly looks can you resin over top of the poly?
Yes you can!
@@LeftBrainedArtist awesome Thank you
You can also use resin or epoxy to finish.You can mix it with all your paint and put it together and it takes at least a day to dry .
So true. I do want to do some epoxy pours soon. I love the beach ones that people make.
Am only saying what I saw people used .Ny first time see what you’re using for a shine effect. I am planning to do this as am learning and watching.I like and have learnt so much from you already. Thank You.
Polycrylic can crack when varnished over paint mixed with glue. Ive spent hours speaking w the R&D at minwax because i had the polycrylic crack and absorb pigments on several pours. Im going to retry the polycrylic w a spray varnish first coat.
If you add an isolation layer or leave it to cure for over a month then sometimes it doesn't. But I think you're one to something there. I'll have to do some more testing. Lately I have been using a lint free cloth and 50% Liquitex varnish and 50% water. Seems to work much better.
@@LeftBrainedArtist yes liquitex is awesome.
I had left the paintings to cure for over 2 months.
I do like the polycrylic finish- similar to TriArt Liquid Glass( also a favorite because the Liquid Glass can be diluted and first layer is only 1/4 strength.
Do you ever use Resin to finish and if you do what do you recommend? Thanks. I'm so glad I found you.
Sometimes but I haven't done a deep dive in to what is best. I used Art Resin for while but I wasn't selling my paintings so that was too expensive to keep going with.
I enjoy your videos and learn a lot even after two years of pouring. I have a question about applying Polycrylic. I've tried applying Polycrylic with brushes (bristle, sponge) with not great results. I've been using a car sponge I store in a zip lock bag (to keep from drying out), but this has issues (bubbles, excess Polycrylic absorbed in the sponge, dried bits from the bag on the sponge, awkward). I saw a recent video where the artist applies Polycrylic with a cheesecloth (and stores it in a zip lock bag to reuse). Have you tried other methods besides a brush to see how well they work for finishing paintings?
I gave up on polycrylic because of all these problems. I only use Liquitex Varnishes or resin now days Catherine.
Great videos. What do you recommend for cracking 🤔
Cracking / crazing of the paint? Don't use cheap white (craft/decoart/folkart/etc.) is probably suggestion #1. Then add a small portion of the more expensive medium (liquitex, gac 800).
If it is the finish, try watching my newest video on finishing where I ditch the paint brush - ruclips.net/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/видео.html
Hi thats fantastic, I have varnished one of my paintings but on the second coat it left lines on it, Can you recommend anything I can do to correct it? Also whats the best way to store your art work? 😊
Lines is a tough one. That usually means there wasn't enough varnish or that you kept brushing after the painting started to dry. More layers or a very find sand (then cleanup) and more layers is usually the solution.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Thank you 😊
Hi David! Great videos, you are so helpful. My question is, what do you do with all the art that you have completed? Do you sell many of them or hang them all over your house? I have quite a few paintings and many of them have little boo boos on them.
Thank you again
I have a bunch taking tons of room in my sudio (eg. office) I have sold some to friends and family but not many. I also have recycled some that don't have too much variation in surface roughness.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Sounds like it's time to open a PO BOX and use the address to start selling and shipping out paintings! 👏🎉👏🎉👏
You have over 52K subscribers and I could honestly see at least 1% would be willing to buy from you! That's 520 paintings right there!! (I think! I'm not a mathematician!! Lol)
I think your viewers would buy from you because:
1. Your art is really better than you think!
2. Your RUclips Channel has created a community and people can relate to you and would be honored to have a piece of your artwork displayed in their home.
3. You have helped thousands of viewers become better at acrylic pouring, and I'm sure I'm not the only person who would buy one to hang on the wall to be able to point to and say "You see that, the guy that painted it is not only a great artist, he also helped change my life."
4. Your art moves people. I remember one comment where a viewer said she suffers from anxiety and in your painting she "saw" what she feels like but cannot express in words. (That's priceless right there! I love your work, but I haven't "fallen in love" with a painting yet, but honestly, I'd be willing to purchase that painting for her (if I can afford it!) so you could send it to her! Her comment touched me that much!)
5. If you sell your paintings, that's more money back in your pocket, to allow you to continue producing videos, teaching, and helping your viewers on their journey.
6. Your art is really better than you think! (Yes, it's worth repeating!)
I hope you seriously consider it.
You encouraged me to do my first pour, I hope I can encourage you to start sharing your gift with the world by selling to us, your viewers. 😑
Hi, do you have a video on how to resin a finished and dried painting? Many thanks
I don't use resin much yet so I don't. Sorry.
Never used Minwax & use the Liquatex. If you have a 20” x 20” canvas what is best way to finish with the Liquatex (w/o leaving marks) as surface so large? Ty for your videos.
I have a video about that here - ruclips.net/video/gHWq0Qfo3bg/видео.html
@@LeftBrainedArtist Ty as use lint free rag but have short arms and doing it in one swipe across (not going to be easy).
Thanks! Have you tried using a roller for applying the Polycrylic?
No. Does that work? I haven't had much luck on furniture and the like with even small rollers and polycrylic so I didn't thing to try on my paintings. I am experimenting with varnishes now though so I will give that a go Wayne.
I am just starting acrylic pouring, so I was wondering about the roller vs the brush.
Just subscribed and watched all 5 of your beginners series. One question ...I've got a half-gallon of ModPodge. It has thickened up a bit. Could I dilute it and substitute it for the Elmers Glue for mixing the paint? If so what consistency should I be looking for. Thanks
You can. Some other artists do that. When I first started I didn't have good luck but I personally haven't tried since Shelle.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Ok thanks. I'll give it a try...why not!
Thank you for all of the info you give us but there is one thing I can't find is how to finish the back of your paintings. Do you leave them messy or put paper on them and do you sign your pieces?
I don't finish the backs. I leave them messy. I think it gives them a more authentic look. I know a lot of artists that paint the back and then put the thick brown paper to cover everything.
I always sign my pieces with an acrylic pen on the back.
Do you sign on the canvas itself with acrylic paint pen or on the wood? I was signing with a sharpie on the back canvas and then it went through the front on a painting with a white background. Had to repaint and stain the front to cover. 🤦🏼♀️ but I really like writing all over the back lol. Possible with acrylic paint pen?
Thank you 🙏🏻
Great video. Do you recommend to add water to Polychrylic?
No. However, since this video I have moved to rubbing on liquitex gloss varnish. So much better results at least for me.
Doesn't it leave brush marks because I have them on my painting. Can I do the rag method instead?
I've had it work both ways. Not sure if the temperature or the painting surface affected that. You can absolutely use the rag method although I like to thin mine with 50% water if I do that. Seems to go on better.
@@LeftBrainedArtist thank you
Is the process the same if I use the liquitex gloss varnish? I ask because this is what I purchased. Thanks!
Liquitex dries slightly fast but not a ton so I would say yes. You have probably 30 minutes easy of adjustment time before the corners start to dry.
Once a pour has initially dried to touch, how long do you usually leave your pours to cure before varnishing them?
2 more weeks. A bit longer for larger paintings.
Thank you for the video! How long do you wait for the varnish to fully cure before wrapping it up for shipping?
1 or 2 days is all for me. The container usually says though for the varnish. Also, I don't use this method much anymore as I prefer the one in this video - ruclips.net/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/видео.html
@@LeftBrainedArtist thank you for your quick response. did you ever have any long term issues with the minwax? I have to use minwax polycrylic because of a specific paint pen I use in my work and minwax has been the only varnish that didn’t cause it to smear or repel. Unfortunately liquitex doesn’t work for these pieces, it repels away from the areas where I used the paint pen.
No longer term issues no.@@melaniefarris2245
Would it help to use a blow dryer on cool to remove the brush marks?
Not with polycrylic. It will dry the varnish too fast and it will crack.
I do most of my acrylic painting on wood and make tables out of it.
I have discovered polycrylic is not good for the table because people use their tables with hot coffee cups and polycrylic tends to melt. What do you recommend for a surface finish that will not melt with a hot coffee cup?
A heat rated resin is what I would recommend for that. Much more expensive but you don't get the whitening or the pitting from heat.
Is there a specific brand of heat resistant that I would need to look for that you would recommend?
Oh, by the way, I've seen all five of your videos on beginners and it looks awesome so please keep up the good work.
Have you noticed a reaction between the Polycrylic and paintings where glue was used in the medium? I keep getting a crackle finish and it has ruined a couple paintings... I've sprayed Krylon UV protector over others and then put on poly over that with success. I just don't quite understand the chemistry sometimes!
That totally happens to me also. I've recently switched to 50/50 water and Liquitex varnish and brushing it on in light coats with a lint free cloth. I never have that problem now.
It may have to do with the painting not being fully cured but dry to the touch. It still releases gasses, albeit slowly, but I haven't nailed down exactly what causes that.
Whew, I thought it was just me! I just bought a small container of Liquitex and will try your recipe of 50/50 with water. Thanks so much once again.
...the painting had been curing almost two weeks...
Hey follow up I checked my notes and realized that particular painting had only been drying 6 days. In the meantime, I accidentally bought the Liquitex matte varnish but have found it makes an excellent intermediate layer between the temperamental glue medium and polycrylic satin.
I'm wondering, can you mix the polycrylic with some Floetrol and use it like a pour?
Sure can. It gets very sticky so I don't like to add more too much but it definitely works.
@@LeftBrainedArtist thanks, I poured Liquitex gloss medium on a painting just by itself and brushed it out thoroughly, and it dried but stayed tacky sticky.
I’ve seen some artists use a sponge brush to apply the last coat. Is there a reason you don’t?
I personally haven't had good experience with sponge brushes. I always get at least a few brush marks. Also, my preferred method now has changed. I now rub on my liquitex varnish (diluted 50:50 with water) on in 3 or 4 coats. ruclips.net/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/видео.html
Can you fix the cracks and brush marks with additional costs?
They are difficult to fix without something like resin to completely hide them Novalla.
What are your thoughts on using a sponge to apply the polycrylic?
A sponge directly leaves too many streaks. however, a sponge wrapped in pantyhose or something like that and very little paint at a time can work.
I'm in Colorado so its very arried with little humidity.
Salt Lake here so about the same generally speaking. I've used a diffuser in my paint room as paint dries in the summer but usually I just rely on the regular AC.
Can I pour over a painting that is already varnished with minimax polycrylic? I've had mixed answers some said absolutely not and others said sure I can but I'd have to sand it 1st
You totally can. A very fine sand will help the medium to adhere better but isn't necessary if you are using glue or a high quality medium.as they are plenty sticky to attach to that surface. Glass is much more "shiny and flat" and you can paint on it just fine.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Thank you so much for your quick response. Just one more question do you think I should maybe gesso 1 layer of it 1st before pouring? or even that's not Necessary?
Hi
Is varnish important for fluid art? Which brand of resin do you use?
I recommend varnishing every piece you make. If only to add dust and UV protection. Lately I have been using liquitex varnish. I only resin an occasional piece.
Do you use water base or no?
Yes water based.
Do you sign your work on the back of the painting?
I do. With an acrylic pen.
What colours did you use in this green painting?
Here is the video of me making this painting - ruclips.net/video/U-DecGv2mas/видео.html
Hay can you tell me what kind of hooks i need too hang my flat wood canvas ?
The best way is eye hooks with a wire. Here is a video from one of my friends on how to do this. ruclips.net/video/-H4z2aZa0Yk/видео.html
Thank you i mainly paint on wood so i needed too know what too use.thank you again.
Do you ever have cracking using the glue?
Very rarely. Only if I layer it too think or use craft paints that aren't mix appropriately with the glue.
What is the difference between polycrylic and polyurethane? I’ve been using polyurethane...should I not be?
Polycrylic is acrylic based and polyurethane is generally oil based. There are some water based polyurethane but most of them have a slight yellow sheen to them. Either work but you need to make sure if you work with the polyurethane you are using the proper safety equipment and in a ventilated room.
I used urethane and found that it turned ALL my white colors YELLOW. What a mess. I am trying Crylic and seeing if the same thing happens. Fingers crossed.
Wow polyurethane only turned the white in one of my paintings yellow and I honestly think that was because my white was too thick.
Can a room be too hot to dry properly
Yes. if the surface dries way faster than the underneath paint it can cause cracking too. If it is going to be hot make sure you tilt off as much as you can so you don't have a thick layer of paint to have this happen with.
Can't you just add polycrylic to the acrylic paint? I add 2 tbs to my paint & mix well then add floetrol and a few drops of water, my pictures dry beautiful and is so shiny.
You can. But with that, you can't guarenteed a coat of varnish and UV protection over the whole of your painting that way.
So PLEASE. Whats the difference between this one and RESIN?
Resin acts completely different than an acrylic pour. You can make them look similar but you just can't do thinks like the waves on a beach in acrylic pours whereas with resin that is like a staple technique.
@@LeftBrainedArtist no no😂if I put resin on the acrylic pouring it ends up looking like glass and FEELS like glass. So the polyilicrylic just looks nice and glossy???
@@dalialovesdoggies4361 Yup. Poly or Liquitex Gloss/High Gloss and other gloss varnishes put a very thing layer of gloss on. Resin puts a very THICK layer and is self leveling so you get that glass look.
@@LeftBrainedArtist thank you sooo much
Can you water this varnish down?
I have not tried with polycrylic Lorrie. You probably can add a little water. This one is so sticky though that I wonder how well it would hold up.
Thank you so much for answering.
Do you sell your art work?
Only to people that ask. I don't advertise it anywhere yet.