Sasha DiGiulian on Era Vella, 5.14d
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- Nineteen year old Sasha DiGiulian made the first female ascent of Chris Sharma's route Era Vella (9a or 5.14d) in Margalef, Spain. At the time 9a was the hardest grade ever climbed by a woman.
Normally this kind of videos come with great musics. But the real sound with silence and only her breathing have a stunning impact!
The camera movement is as smooth and elegant as Sasha climbing style! It is amazing! Please, make a Behind the scene showing the rig you use.
I thought I'd never see the day. Amazing job! Congrats!
Amazing camera angle and framing. Keep up the good work fellas!
she's amazing
Hell yeah! Back in the day, I think it was Catherine "She's got sexy legs" Destiville that held the women's sport climbing record of .13c! So I'm stoked to see women break into .14d - go Sasha!!!!
such a good climber! i hope to be that good someday soon
There is nothing with letting a little aggression out in a vocal manner. It just shows Ondra's sheer determination when it comes to climbing.
I was sad to hear that this climb was downgraded to "soft" 5.14c by both Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods.It is too bad for Sasha. Still, she is an amazing climber.
That's correct, sasha is not the first woman, but the first American woman (and possibly youngest woman?) Josune Bereziartu was the first female to climb 14.d, many years ago, and she has also already climbed 14d/15a(bimbaluna), and also Charlotte Duri climbed a 14.d a few years ago now too. Mega insane props to Sasha still for being incredibly motivating and an inspiration to everyone - just gotta give props to the Euros too! Could easily see her climbing 5.15 very soon.
When I climb indoors, the routes are marked with specific holds. I've also seen outdoor videos where it looks like there are specific moves expected on the route. This wall looks so rough and she seems to be taking whatever hold she can. Is that normal for outdoor climbing?
what ever she was great !!!
great vid, keep em coming!
I'm guessing a helicopter (can't remember the correct name) of some sort.. A 4 propeller electrical helicopter strong enough to carry a camera. They give extremely smooth and impressive footage, as long as the wind isn't too rough.
It´s Spanish (and Italian) written bella, in Italian pronounced "bella" in Spanish ("ll"= "y" sound) it pronounced like "beya" but the b and v are mispelled and often pronounced the same in Spanish, hence "era vella" (he/she/it was beautiful). (Hopefully this is useful to someone)
nice one :D looking forward to 2012 reel rock film tour
Let me be a bit more explicit: Most rock climbers avoid wearing helmets because they climb in areas with consolidated rock; mountaineers wear helmets because rock quality on the hills is relatively poor and the freeze/thaw cycle tends to add to the problem. Helmets are fairly uncomfortable, hot and designed only to distribute the effect of a vertical impact. Modern sports climbing, of the kind you're seeing in this video, although impressive, is very safe; there is no need to wear a helmet here.
Doubt it's that simple. First it goes sideways, then up. And camera rotates on two axles as well.. Though I might be off with the copter part, since you usually don't get a two axle rotation with those...
Well, Sasha is incredible, but i can't believe that bigup don't know about Josune Bereciartu, the real first woman that climbs 9a and 9a+, years ago with Baing du sang. Although Sasha is the youngest, great ascent!! great future!!
Nice video footage, and amazing climber, but you are wrong, Josune Bereziartu (Basque Country) already did 9a 10 years ago (Bain de sang), and in 2005 she climbed Bimbaluna 9a/+
Correction: Hardest grade ever climbed by a woman 9a/9a+ by josune bereziartu in 2005. Pero aún así tiene mucho merito la chiketina! Venga sascha!!
Respect
I couldn't possibly imagine who you're referring to *coughondracough*
Fantastic and amazing :)
No. Easy routes outdoor offer a lot of holds and therefore endless possibilities for the beta. However, this route is very hard (!!) and the moves are more or less defined. The rock looks very structured but if you touch it there are actually very few holds.
Keep practice ! I climb the same wall like 20 times before finishing it !
Usually, when doing well equipped sport climbing routes, most climbers don't wear helmets.
Oh my god could I have some information on your tracking rig, how does that even work?!?! is it a helicopter?
Very true. It's also worth pointing out that in climbing, it's the belayer that really needs the helmet, not the climber.
Shut up dumbass
9a? That's mental!
I totally agree with you. "Soft" and 5.14c shouldn't be used in the same sentence anyways- it's still freaking hard by any standards! She is so strong.
We still didn't see her climb it in reel rock....
well in spanish it's written vella but pronounced "bella"
Difficulties have nothing to do with safety...^^ I also think that this was not the crux, but I don't think you can really judge this route from the video. When pros climb it always looks far easier than it really is...
And I dont think she fell in the crux, I have to assume the crux was higher than that. Dont try to answer I dont think you would know the difference anyway.
Wow are you envious.
Oh, come on, I don't think that Merchalot's comment was pointed at her being a girl and Adam being a boy. I think it was ratherabout the different mindset that she has. And I agree that Adams tantrums are quite funny. :D
This doesnt look difficult at all, look at all those holes on the rock. Is this really the hardest grade ever climbed by a woman? That was the crux? that last bit? Either way it may be hard but it looks super safe, anyone could try this 100 times and not get hurt because it has a smooth angle.
nice!
Ah, fair enough... Thanks! :)
Era bella, era vella....I've seen both the names a few times
Isnt it super hard climbing on a tilted wall like that? You must use your arms much more
+topoluc12 Yes it is. She's one of the best climbers in the world. 9a is the grade of the climb, I believe the most difficult grade anyone has climbed is 9b.
its a rope attached to a camera and goes up and down
This is what they call "Sport climbing". is is basically gym climbing outside,
it is not uncommon for sport climbers to leave the quick draws on the walls year round. Wouldn't be surprised if they start screwing orange plastic hand holds to mountains in the near future.
If you look at her in "Pure Imagination" that looks like a real 14d. Thats my point. This looks good on film but does not capture the real 14d wow factor.
this is her second 9a yo
like if u think the holds doesnt look too bad
i mean i got no doubt that i cant climb this, but the hand holds looked juggy
is not 9a
I was so inspired until i heard " i am a mormon"
One of my goals is to climb with her, who knows maybe I can get her to come up to Lions head in Ontario canada and cllimb some 5.11's with me hah
If you think this is "lame" then I'm sorry for you.
Che forza
I can do the 5.6 part.....Okay maybe the approach!
By that logic, maybe "spurt" climbing doesn't count either?...
Who said climbing fast is good? How hard can yo climb? And top-roping doesnt count...
wtf no music on such pro vid
positivity
"beya"*
No. You should try to climb 5.14c. If you think this is lame, well, i have to throw out the idiot card in your direction. Or maybe just the gaper card.
nah. don't be silly.
woman*
@nightclubc then go find a tree
Oh Sasha you are so beautiful. Marry me (if you can tolerate someone who only climbs 5.11)!
I climbed for 10 years in the 1980s/90s on routes up to E7 (UK) and never wore a helmet once. They're a bit ghey and "mountaineery" to be honest.
Shortest most worthless climbing video ever
That makes no sense, but good try. Go back to the gym and keep working that top rope problem so you can pat yourself on the back and call yourself a climber.