How To Protect And Wrap Your Trees For Winter
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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In this video our host Albert Howell learns how to wrap trees to protect them in the winter from our expert Carson Arthur.
What you'll need - Burlap, string, scissors
1. Burlap is crucial for protecting plants and trees in cold climates
in winter.
2. Burlap blocks leaves from getting sunlight.
3. Start at bottom and work your way up.
4. Start at first frost.
5. Go in the opposite direction with string/twine. Top to bottom.
6. Burlapping tress protects the branches from snow coming down
on top of them.
SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR EXPERT CARSON ARTHUR
Carson Arthur: Website www.carsonarthu...
Twitter / carsonarthur
Facebook / carson.arthur
Albert is hilarious! Great host who makes every video fun to watch!
Thanks so much for this!
Awesome short, informational video. Entertaining also.
Thank you for sharing. We lost a lot of trees last winter and this is our first year wrapping.
Can the burlap be reused the following year?
If the snow has already begun to fall can they be wrapped with a little snow on them or if they’re wet, or do they need to be dry to wrap them?
So I definitely understand the point of burlap. But I’ve been asked by people, why cover them when the biggest reasons people use evergreens is for their winter interest? By covering it aren’t you removing it’s interest?
You shouldn't have to worry about desiccation or winter burn with zone hardy evergreen plants! First step is to find out what USDA zone you live in. If you live in USDA zone 5, it is completely unnecessary to burlap most Thuja occidentalis (White Cedar) varieties or cultivars if you're worried about desiccation. If you live in USDA zone 5 and have a Crytomeria japonica (Japanese Cedar) it would be wise (unless maybe it's in a very sheltered micro-climate). Limb damage from the weight of snow is an entirely different situation. I personally don't burlap any of my "zone hardy" plants and have had the snow bend them down to ground level. I find they bounce right back up after the snow's gone.
Thank you. This video is ridiculous. People baby their plants so often that they leave them vulnerable to all sorts of problems.
@@Cornus I agree, bare minimum of protection but, a yard is not a forest where tons of trees live heartily and if one breaks it's no big deal. Having to replace a tree in a yard is a lot of work and if it can be prevented by a little tlc, it's probably worth it.
What about foot tall yellow ribbon arborvitae in zone 5? I just planted them early October and we have 4ish inches of snow. I’m so confused by the info out in the internet.
@@elisecampbell281 Should be completely fine without any protection, considering it's USDA zone hardy down to zone 2 or 3. Just make sure it gets enough water in the growing season!
@@Cornus Absolutely, in my USDA zone 6 area I see people burlaping white spruces which are the 1st trees to grow in the artic tundra and see regular winters of -50C or -58F. It's a monkey see, monkey do approach!
This is also keeps the deer from eating the leaves
When in the spring do you take this off? After the last frost?
awesome guys, helpful info
So, is one of the goals to prevent it getting sunlight for photosynthesis? Which it can’t do if roots are frozen?
Thanks! Helpful tips!! The Smart Guy/Really Dumb Guy presentation was a little annoying and didn't add anything.
At what point do you not wrap them? I have 42 bushes to wrap.
Excellent
what happens to trees in the wild? wouldn't they get sun on them?
How about putting a fleece bag over newly planted Taxus and Hydrangeas Mac. Thank you!
I was told by the actual garden factory where they plant & sell hundreds of trees & shrubs a year not to touch tree with burlap during winter.
Told me in northeast cold, snowy, windy area, that its Better to put stakes couple inches outside the diameter of tree and wrap a fence around tree.
I was told you dont want to touch 6 ft concolor fir tree like you did in video when doing a barrier.
Was told the wind is what's the most damaging and building a fence was best. Not to worry about the snow coming down from the top.
i didnt know ever greens had to be wraped.. could you use heated wire underneath?
When we shovel it goes where my cedars are and they stay completely covered in snow for months, I am scared of breakage hence why I want to burlap them or hold shape and not have broken branches . I am also scared to not burn them now , any idea
Why protect a cedar. Those things are hardy to like 2A. We have many here in toronto and they survived minus 25 degree celsius.
But when do you take the burlap off? I took mine off in March when the snow had mostly melted, and it seemed like we wouldn't have any more snow. (we had one more). Tree was green at first, and now it's dessicated 4 weeks later. : (
Wow, it happened that quick? 4 weeks? Sorry that happened, have they recovered with aggressive waterings?
I guess this explains why three of my 17 trees which have substantially more sun exposure during winter died
No watering over the winter? Thank you!
Hmm. Why plant evergreens if you're going to burlap all winter.
Because deer also enjoy eating them
I wrapped my trees after the first frost. We are experiencing highs in the 50 lows in the 30. Much warmer than I remember. Will the burlap hurt my trees? I'm wondering if I should remove the burlap.
Your trees survive?
Need to fix 6ft bushes from winter damage
Can I use Burlap on Sago Palms ?
how long should we leave them wrapped? just when it freezes or can we leave them all year long?
+Ricardo Gomez
Leave them covered until the top 3” of soil has thawed…providing water to the roots of the tree!
Hope that helps.
I was wondering how INFRARED HEAT LAMPS would work to PROTECT PALMS during winters? These are light/heat sources that do not emit visible light, they emit infrared light which heats the object directly, and it doesn't heat the air between. So they're extremely efficient. Does anyone know anything about using these to protect palms? In theory, it seems these heaters would be fantastic for growing palms way outside their normal USDA Zone range.
While in theory, the idea of providing an inexpensive heat source for palm trees in northern climates seems like a good idea, the reality is a little more complex. Not only do you have to heat the plant, you also have to heat the roots. The cold temperatures the freeze below the ground (frost line) would be almost impossible to keep from spreading. Also consider that if you start down this road, you will always have to provide heat for those plants…for the balance of there lives…which can be hundreds of years. The first time you stop, its game over for the palm.
~ Carson
eztv online "...hundreds of years"... Dude, c'mon... I couldn't care about the palms if I'm not even alive. Seriously though, I think you don't see how simple my plan could be. Firstly, the roots... I'm in USDA 7A/7B border. Most winter days the temp isn't even below freezing. And the ground never freezes solidly deeper than a few inches. But even if it did, I plan to install electric heaters there with mulch on top. Though this wouldn't be the hard part. The fronds are the hard part because they're so large and cover a huge spread and are irregularly shaped, so you can't just tape heating cables to them of course. That's where infrared heaters would work beautifully. They only heat objects, not the space of air between. So they'd be incredibly efficient, even more so than a 60Watt bulb.
This is wrong information. I followed this video to wrap my emerald cedar and all 14 trees are yellowing and dying. You are not supposed to so tightly wrap the emerald cedar according to my garden centre. I wonder how your tree turn out to be after the winter season.
My cedar tree is in a large plastic pot on my balcony. If I wrap it like you suggest, do I leave a small space at the bottom in order to continue watering them during winter?
Hey Danielle,
Cedars in pots need to be wrapped ALL the way to the ground. Depending on the winter temperatures you get, the roots need to be protected as well as the top of the tree. Consider getting a hot-water tank insulator to wrap around the pot. Water requirements in the winter are significantly less.
C.
Thank you so very much ! Now I know exactly what do ! cheers !
Our pleasure. Glad we could help :]
Danielle Blain u
The guy in the green reminds of the guy from the hangover,can you guess who? Doug,Stu,Alan or Phil? 🤔
What are you suppose to do when they get too tall
You really only need to wrap for first 3 years. I'm going to assume that the tree is older than that. Carson.
Interesting comments from people who say the burlap shouldn't touch the tree. My high priced landscaping company wrapped my trees exactly like this.
They messed up.I wondered the same thing at first, and then I called a greenhouse that grows them, and they said do not let the burlap touch the shrub.
Probably because they want you to keep coming back to pay their high prices.
Still not clear if lights are harmful with and or without burlap?
Melissa Allen Maine Gardener led christmas lights wont hurt your tree or bush weather its wrapped or not.
It doesn’t work. I just did my tree and the next day strong wind blew it off and left a mess. The burlap has to be tied on better than just with jute around. Because this method didn’t even last a day. Take it as constructive criticism.
Cedars dont need a burlap...btw the burlap wrap is too tight in the video...
guy in blue shirt, very smart and helpful. thanks. guy in green sweater - bone brain!
Daniel V. I agree, trying to be funny, but NOT
For Pete’s sake, he’s an actor!
It's called humor...I don't think he's the bone brain here, buddy
I think wrap them for the first two years after that they're fine.
Totally incorrect video! Ice can form one the covered evergreen with burlap and will cause burning. Putting a barrier around the evergreen about a few inches and keeping the top exposed for sun will prevent cold wind damage. Finally a large mature evergreen does not necessarily need protection but if possible in colder area's with longer winter's some types of evergreens could benefit from some protection.
I was told the same thing by a nursery, stake around the perimeter of each shrub and wraps around so the branches don’t touch the burlap. Also, if you can, knock snow off the top if you get a lot of snowfall. Wet burlap touching the arborvitae is bad. You can wrap as they did in the video if you have no other option, but it is not recommended.
When in the spring do you take this off? After the last frost?