great video, I found it very helpful in my quest to build one of these. I am having a bit of trouble understanding the flow path....so when pressure is introduced, doesn't that spring compress, lifting the seat from the stem? if thats the case, then do they rely on that that o-ring inside the cap to seal the whole chamber, thus creating a through path? in my mind, there is a thrust load acting on those bearings....doing (to a lesser extent) exactly what you were preventing by pressing from the inner race....pretty sure I have something about that logic wrong, any idea what it might be?
Yeah it's not an easy flow path to understand. The way I see it is the top piece with spring is under spring pressure ensuring the 2 carbide seats are mating. The o ring at the top seals this seat/spring assembly but its the machines carbide seats that seal the assembly. If the carbide seat wears that's when I think I will spit water out the bypass hole. I would assume that due to the pressure forces that's why they have used 2 bearings. There is a smaller circlip on top of the shadt under the cap which to all extent and purposes secure the bearings but it isn't very big.
@@DirtyDriveAway thank you for the prompt & helpful response! "...spring is under spring pressure ensuring the 2 carbide seats are mating" thats what it looks like to me too, but then in thinking about it, is that spring anywhere near stiff enough to resist 3000+psi? or maybe, since the tips are open, the valve doesn't see that much pressure? Or maybe that whole cavity fills, pressure equalizes...allowing the small spring force to keep it closed? I have no idea. Would love to see one of this with a polycarbonate housing, see whats actually happening in real time. I know the sprung seat (with the pins) is carbide, is that little cap with the oring also carbide? I thought they were stainless? any idea what that stepped piece that covers the retain collar & surclip does? I don't get why that would be necessary if the seal happens at the seats. I didn't know there was a bypass built into the rotary head, where exactly is that? sorry to be such a pest, but it seems like you know what your talking about & I can't find this info elsewhere. really appreciate it!
@@mtraven23 the inlet piece is carbide tipped same as the stainless shaft. You can see where the tips have been welded on and machined flat. I couldn't quite work out what the shaft cap was for apart from a means to hold the collar on. The cap is sealed with an oring which in my experience orings seal stationary parts, not moving parts like oil seals do. The bypass port tends to indicate to the user that the sealing seat has failed. I will have to take another look inside the housing to see exactly where it is but it drains through to the hole on the bottom of the main housing. I have seen people who have had issues and you get fairly high pressure water coming out the hole when somethings failed. Pretty sure it's to prevent high pressure ingress into the chamber and destroying the bearings, just a thought. I dont think the inner chamber is supposed to have any water in it, it merely travels straight through the shaft and the angled nozzles on the rotor arm make it spin. You have minimal movement on the inlet spring and you can push it up and down with your finger so it's not designed to withstand pressure, it's merely there to keep the inlet seat in contact with the main shaft. I suppose its carbide so it can withstand the friction of being mated with the shaft, i would think the water flow keeps it cool. The carbide seats don't last forever so I would say once they have worn sufficiently that the spring no longer offers pressure water can pass between the mating surfaces and thus out the bypass hole. I've mainly seen it on people whirlaways that don't grease the bearings and thus they fail causing wobble on the rotor arm which puts excess side to side pressure on the shaft and in turn causes uneven wear on the carbide seats. People in this game never tend to maintain there equipment and wonder why all of a sudden it doesn't work. They will keep using it even knowing it doesn't sound or feel right, right to the point of destruction. They then stand back scratching their heads wondering what's happened...erm it's called maintenance lol.
@@DirtyDriveAway you have no idea how helpful you have been! my only hang up is that little spring keeping the mating surfaces together...does there happen to be any features in the carbide seat that help it seat under pressure? For example, maybe the bore is reduced such that the water pressure forces the surfaces together? i know the seats are tapered, is there also a tiny straight portion at the end? I though I saw something like that in a picture.
@@DirtyDriveAway watched every one off you vids and have really found them inspiring, I'm seriously considering giving it a go as my job is in real trouble due to all that's going on.Thanks again for your great content 👍👍
If your in UK try this. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imperial-Viton-Rubber-O-Rings-1-78mm-Cross-Section-BS001-BS031-UK-SUPPLIER-/362942657785?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imperial-Viton-Rubber-O-Rings-2-62mm-Cross-Section-BS103-BS171-2-06-20-87mmID-/143407402560?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Viton-FKM-Rubber-O-Rings-2-5mm-Cross-Section-4mm-33mm-ID-UK-SUPPLIER-/141455807142?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
@@DirtyDriveAway Thanks so much pal there ordered, when i stripped the main assembly down i must admit the bearing and shaft feel very loose so let's hope the new ones will be better, i'm going to buy a few quick connects to dont suppose you know the correct size thread?Ive been rebuilding my honda gx390 along with the ez4040g pump with the k1 unloader its working great but not getting the full 4000 psi only getting 3000 psi with the red nozzle so need to do some investigating,its had all new valvels and there seems theres no more adjustment within the k1 loader. Think i need to check if i have the correct red nozzle and see if a valve is sticking otherwise not sure why that is.
@@darrenturner1119 std threads are 1/4"bsp. Not sure what flow rate the pump is but typically a GX390 engine doesn't have enough power to reach 4000psi. Most 390 engines will do 200bar at 21lpm or 250bar at 18lpm. There may be a chance to push it to 4000psi but it will be a low flow rate. Remember it's not all about pressure it's the water flow that does the work not the pressure rating.
Thanks for the videos....Am from Africa and would like to start a pressure washing business..your advise on the requirements I need would be appreciated..... Thanx
wow, Ive been searching for this information for a couple of years, thankyou.
Ha, I did too hence why I made the video.
Thank god you made this video! Helped me to fix my surface cleaner!
I aim to please, glad it helped.
Great video thanks, how do I get some of the grease out I’ve over greased it and now it’s not spinning very freely
You can take it apart and take some out or after a little use it will free up.
@@DirtyDriveAway thanks for the reply
great video, I found it very helpful in my quest to build one of these.
I am having a bit of trouble understanding the flow path....so when pressure is introduced, doesn't that spring compress, lifting the seat from the stem?
if thats the case, then do they rely on that that o-ring inside the cap to seal the whole chamber, thus creating a through path?
in my mind, there is a thrust load acting on those bearings....doing (to a lesser extent) exactly what you were preventing by pressing from the inner race....pretty sure I have something about that logic wrong, any idea what it might be?
Yeah it's not an easy flow path to understand. The way I see it is the top piece with spring is under spring pressure ensuring the 2 carbide seats are mating. The o ring at the top seals this seat/spring assembly but its the machines carbide seats that seal the assembly. If the carbide seat wears that's when I think I will spit water out the bypass hole. I would assume that due to the pressure forces that's why they have used 2 bearings. There is a smaller circlip on top of the shadt under the cap which to all extent and purposes secure the bearings but it isn't very big.
@@DirtyDriveAway thank you for the prompt & helpful response!
"...spring is under spring pressure ensuring the 2 carbide seats are mating"
thats what it looks like to me too, but then in thinking about it, is that spring anywhere near stiff enough to resist 3000+psi? or maybe, since the tips are open, the valve doesn't see that much pressure? Or maybe that whole cavity fills, pressure equalizes...allowing the small spring force to keep it closed? I have no idea. Would love to see one of this with a polycarbonate housing, see whats actually happening in real time.
I know the sprung seat (with the pins) is carbide, is that little cap with the oring also carbide? I thought they were stainless?
any idea what that stepped piece that covers the retain collar & surclip does? I don't get why that would be necessary if the seal happens at the seats.
I didn't know there was a bypass built into the rotary head, where exactly is that?
sorry to be such a pest, but it seems like you know what your talking about & I can't find this info elsewhere. really appreciate it!
@@mtraven23 the inlet piece is carbide tipped same as the stainless shaft. You can see where the tips have been welded on and machined flat.
I couldn't quite work out what the shaft cap was for apart from a means to hold the collar on. The cap is sealed with an oring which in my experience orings seal stationary parts, not moving parts like oil seals do.
The bypass port tends to indicate to the user that the sealing seat has failed. I will have to take another look inside the housing to see exactly where it is but it drains through to the hole on the bottom of the main housing. I have seen people who have had issues and you get fairly high pressure water coming out the hole when somethings failed. Pretty sure it's to prevent high pressure ingress into the chamber and destroying the bearings, just a thought.
I dont think the inner chamber is supposed to have any water in it, it merely travels straight through the shaft and the angled nozzles on the rotor arm make it spin.
You have minimal movement on the inlet spring and you can push it up and down with your finger so it's not designed to withstand pressure, it's merely there to keep the inlet seat in contact with the main shaft. I suppose its carbide so it can withstand the friction of being mated with the shaft, i would think the water flow keeps it cool.
The carbide seats don't last forever so I would say once they have worn sufficiently that the spring no longer offers pressure water can pass between the mating surfaces and thus out the bypass hole. I've mainly seen it on people whirlaways that don't grease the bearings and thus they fail causing wobble on the rotor arm which puts excess side to side pressure on the shaft and in turn causes uneven wear on the carbide seats.
People in this game never tend to maintain there equipment and wonder why all of a sudden it doesn't work. They will keep using it even knowing it doesn't sound or feel right, right to the point of destruction. They then stand back scratching their heads wondering what's happened...erm it's called maintenance lol.
@@DirtyDriveAway you have no idea how helpful you have been!
my only hang up is that little spring keeping the mating surfaces together...does there happen to be any features in the carbide seat that help it seat under pressure? For example, maybe the bore is reduced such that the water pressure forces the surfaces together?
i know the seats are tapered, is there also a tiny straight portion at the end? I though I saw something like that in a picture.
@@mtraven23 send me your email address and I'll see if I can take some more detailed pictures for you.
Cheers for the video - will be useful!
Welcome.
really enjoy you vids 👍👍👍
Thank you 😊
@@DirtyDriveAway watched every one off you vids and have really found them inspiring, I'm seriously considering giving it a go as my job is in real trouble due to all that's going on.Thanks again for your great content 👍👍
@@salvage-ray4202 glad they help. Should have some more this year.
Great vid mate,can i ask where you got the seals from,I'm having difficulty sourcing them
You can buy service kits for them but I ordered the o-rings and bearings off a supplier on ebay.
@@DirtyDriveAway Thanks pal ive ordered the bearings off ebay just need the orings but struggling to find the correct ones on ebay
If your in UK try this. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imperial-Viton-Rubber-O-Rings-1-78mm-Cross-Section-BS001-BS031-UK-SUPPLIER-/362942657785?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imperial-Viton-Rubber-O-Rings-2-62mm-Cross-Section-BS103-BS171-2-06-20-87mmID-/143407402560?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Viton-FKM-Rubber-O-Rings-2-5mm-Cross-Section-4mm-33mm-ID-UK-SUPPLIER-/141455807142?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
@@DirtyDriveAway Thanks so much pal there ordered, when i stripped the main assembly down i must admit the bearing and shaft feel very loose so let's hope the new ones will be better, i'm going to buy a few quick connects to dont suppose you know the correct size thread?Ive been rebuilding my honda gx390 along with the ez4040g pump with the k1 unloader its working great but not getting the full 4000 psi only getting 3000 psi with the red nozzle so need to do some investigating,its had all new valvels and there seems theres no more adjustment within the k1 loader. Think i need to check if i have the correct red nozzle and see if a valve is sticking otherwise not sure why that is.
@@darrenturner1119 std threads are 1/4"bsp. Not sure what flow rate the pump is but typically a GX390 engine doesn't have enough power to reach 4000psi. Most 390 engines will do 200bar at 21lpm or 250bar at 18lpm. There may be a chance to push it to 4000psi but it will be a low flow rate. Remember it's not all about pressure it's the water flow that does the work not the pressure rating.
Thank You !!!!!!!!!!!!!
very helpful video
Thanks for the videos....Am from Africa and would like to start a pressure washing business..your advise on the requirements I need would be appreciated..... Thanx
Go back and look at Phil’s vids all you need to know is on them