As a retired professional photographer I remember using Philips Photolita bulbs in the 70s which were overrun to produce about 7500 lumens 240v 250w. That's about twice normal GLS but with a corresponding life of just 3 hours. Still available. They were used in pairs in a series/parallel circuit. Setting up was in series and then switched to parallel to take the shot.
wattsupmike ? I remember doing that; I built my own series/ parallel switch using two changeover switches. If you operated them in the wrong order, one would weld shut and the fuse would blow. I've moved on a bit since then!
3 hours is a VERY long time for something used momentarilly. Heck, if I had a Incan Flashlight with an overdriven bulb that could last 3 hours, that's plentiful especially how cheap they are.
Also, if you lived in rural areas of North America, you bought "farm bulbs", because they boosted the voltage to your farm to about 132-135v because of the greater distances to your farmhouse, and normal bulbs would just burn out faster.
We were getting about 3 hours out of the 110V lamps we had connected to 240V. Really bright white light, nice to work under. We did find that we could only switch them on once, the second time they would always blow. The heat output was tremendous.
I had the same issue with Overdriven Flashlight bulbs. I had several 2.4V Bulbs overdriven by 1x 18650 (4.2V) Battery. They could stay lit for several minutes, but if I turned it off then back on, instaflash. My Hypothesis is when the Bulb is on, the Filament stays in shape due to the Magnetic properties, but when turned off, the Filament cools down but has lost most of it's structural integrity. If only more research was put into Incandescents would we have Lightbulbs that could be overdriven but still have long service life.
The only snag here is , the 110 volt lamp is probably a what they call a “ Rough service lamp “ which is suited to Applications on building sites etc And thus probably built to better standards
I was thinking the same thing. If some company sold 120 watt 240v bulbs, but branded as 60 watt 120v bulbs that last "forever" they could sell a ton of them, but then they'd go out of business because their customers would never buy another light bulb.
Such long life bulbs were sold. Essentially just de-rated. However, they wasted more money than they saved as they produced much less light, not to mention being much yellower in colour. The extra costs of electricity to produce the same amount of light vastly outweighed the savings in the cost of the bulbs. Further, those long life bulbs were sold at a premium price. The only place de-rating makes sense, is for things like indicator lamps in car dashboards and so on where the amount of light isn't important but they are difficult to change.
That is some bad math. Putting 120V thru a lamp rated at 240V will NOT cause it to draw half as much power. The thermal resistance is lower at half voltage so it will draw MORE than half of the amperage compared to 240V. But since the voltage is half and the amperage will be maybe 2/3rds that at 240V, then 1/2*2/3 = 1/3 so it should be around 40 watts at 120V if it was 120 watts at 240V. At 110V is should be even lower than 40 watts. Also, it would NOT last an eternity. If the lamp is rated at say 2000 hours at its nominal voltage, I doubt running it at slightly less than half of that voltage will make it last longer than some of these 20,000 hour rated LED lamps. It is still subjected to other hazards such as vibration, rough handling, dropping, amperage spike when first turned on...
I have make some experiments that its not true that a 120w 240v bulb runs at 120v at 60w! the resistance is high dynamic at temperature! next its wrong that a bulb runs a million hours is bad for envioment! you forget how much energy industie use to create something and the energy to replace and drive to get new stuff... i worked 11 jears in industrie and some time in high energy reserch its just for make more profit that stuff have to fail fast!!!.. next if we create energy from solar thermie in the deserts change it to ethanol and burn it here its better to use a 770w long life insted a 100w short life for the same light output! next i like the red color of long life bulbs!
I'm surprised that the 110v bulb lasted as long as it did. I had a personal experience about 30 years ago. I worked in a gatehouse at a factory. One day we suddenly had 235v on one leg and 0v on the other (this is the USA. Normal operation would be 235v between red and black wires. The white wire is neutral, white to red is 117v, and white to black is 117v. 99% of things people plug in use 117v). Well, one winter day, our space heater in the shack turned white hot. I told the in-store electrician that we had 235v on one leg. He insisted this was impossible, and insisted that I caused the problem by "playing with" the heater. I told him the heater could only get hotter if there were more voltage across the wire, so he says "how can you say that?", and I answer "Ohm's Law!". So he comes with a portable lamp. He plugs it into one socket, and I tell him "it won't light", he turns it on, no light. He takes the lamp to another socket, I tell him it will pop like a flashbulb. It does. He goes back into the plant with another bulb. It pops, too. What happened was that someone on the cheap decided to place one breaker in the neutral in instead of one breaker in the red and one in the black. This worked fine until, somehow, one of the hots came into contact with the conduit and tripped the breaker in the neutral.
your explanation doesn't make sense, for example there is no such thing as ''hots'', it's called the Line cable. And what ''conduit''?. How would this turn 117v into 235v? You fail to say where exactly the circuit completes if the neutral was cut off through the breaker. Your story makes no sense and you sound a bit too biased towards telling it how you were mister smarty pants and other people were dumbasses.
@@llVIU Split phase with 2 x 117VAC hots would be 117 from each phase to the neutral and double that, 234VAC between the two phases. (And "hot" is a common term for line in US) 117v is one of the several historic voltages used in North America before full standardisation at 120. Actual tolerances are 114-126 so 117 is still possible, although unlikely a user would actually know that. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity#Standardisation
@@llVIU Are you kidding? Made perfect sense. You need to know how US electricity works. Now go do some research before insulting someone else who actually knows what he is talking about.
Interesting to see that the 110v did work on the 240 I thought it would have popped immediately, cool to see that it actually did work, I wonder what would happen if you did the same test with a CFL Bulb
redneckbryon Instant bang as the electrolytic ripple suppression capacitor on the DC buss for the ballast is only rated for 200V. Overdriving lamps like this is how photoflood and related high luminance short life lamps work.
I live in the USA. I lived in an apartment a few years back that only got 108 volts. My light bulbs were noticeably dimmer than places I lived that got 120+ volts. When I moved back to a place that got 120 volts, I noticed right away that the bulbs were brighter. Even things like my microwave oven sounded a little different.
billybassman21 108V that's it?! Wow, the normal power for the US is 120V (not 110V) so that is way under. I wonder how that passed inspection. Some appliances (like A/Cs and refrigerators) don't work as well at such a low voltage, some might not even work at all! Also stuff like stereos won't be as loud. A normal UPS actually has a low voltage cut off (starts to raise the voltage) at about 107-110, so that electrical is considered vary poor.
Joshua's Recordings It was so bad, when my roommate would turn his halogen lamp on in his room, my UPS for my computer would switch to battery. What's funny is we lived across from the substation for the area. I think it had something to do with the fact the apartments were old. I wonder if they had to install a hard start kit on any of the a/c units.
billybassman21 I wonder if you had knob and tube wiring. We live close to the substation and the power in our home (which is very old too, but as newer electrical) is 122V normal 125V max and 119V min.
Joshua's Recordings It wasn't that old. The apartments I lived in then were built in 1970. Not really old, but old for the Houston area. I'm thinking there might have been a problem with the neutral wire coming in. Maybe there was an open or shared neutral. No telling.
@@billybassman21 , what apt. upper floor or bottom floor , closer to where the power comes in? a few years ago in an upper floor of an apt/condo unit. the in coming power was 208/120 volt 3 phase. on the upper floor the voltage was only around 200/ 112 volts. voltage drop was going on. who ever installed the wiring did it on the cheap and did not take into account the distance and did not upsize the wiring to the panel. so there was voltage drop going on and a spa unit needed larger wire to feed it, as the size wire it called for was not big enough to carry the load and did not work very good. would not get the spa hot.
I know that I am very late finding this, I used to work in the labs for a lamp manufacturer, a "perk" was that we could have as many free lamps as we wanted. I pointed out to a colleague that with a 240v supply applied to a 220v lamp you got roughly 50% more light for your money. He was mean enough to not be worried about changing lamps every month. Something you might find interesting is to plot current against applied voltage on a tungsten lamp, you will find the curve surprising.
The resistance of a tungsten filament increases with its temperature which is why incandescent lamps exhibit a current inrush when first switched on with a cold filament. Doubling the supply voltage does not double the current once the filament reaches its (higher) stable temperature. An early application of this effect was a Wien bridge oscillator by Hewlett Packard which used an under-run lamp to stabilise its output.
A few years back I heard a story on tv a household was trying to get compensation after the neutral lug melted off the transformer supplying their house and a neighbor. They were woken up by the electronics going pop and bang when he got up and turned lights on they were like the sun. The house was effectively getting the voltage of two phases.
Happened here in March when the neutral literally just fell off at the substation. Red and blue phases shot up and white dropped down. Thank goodness because the white was running the CCTV, WiFi and fibre internet. Yes we have 3 phase power.
@@the_real_hislordship the red and blue voltages didn't change at all. with the neutral removed, the voltage is now divided between the connected loads...if you had a 100w light bulb on one phase and a 40w on the other phase, one sees high voltage, the other low. if both phases had the identical loads on (i.e. 100w bulbs on both) the neutral being removed wouldn't have any affect on them..they would both have half of the phase to phase voltage
@@carsnmods1687 You're right... as i have no clue what you mean by that! a typical residential property is a single phase service. Even still, if it is a 3 phase service which some very large houses have, a neutral loss is still the same result
Very interesting, I expected it to fail pretty much immediately too, nice experiment :) .... I wonder why so many dislikes 🤐, people are so strange! Many thanks JW, love your videos :)
On a similar note Japan mains voltage is 100v, 50/60 Hz depending on East or West part. Light bulbs from there operated on 120v last maybe 5% of rated life. Conversely 120v light bulbs operated in Japan on 100v last 10-15X longer. Light output is only 2/3 normal so folks use 150 watt bulbs in place of 75-100w. Base p.x. only sell u.s. 120v bulbs.
I have been quiet a few airplanes and in the bathroom the voltage is 110v for the Australian airline planes that I have noticed when I have flew to other cities here in Australia and to New Zealand. I thought they would put 230v power in the planes bathrooms. Check it out when your on a flight next time.
Dear Niv. Yes, it is very interesting in Japan, where the different Hz are. Few people realise that there is such a country. Would be a good question on Who Wants To Be A Millionaire tv quiz show.
Lol I remember when I was in the electrician appreciateship I said "bulb" and my boss said "what? It's a LAMP..... you're not planting tulips speak like a professional"😂😂😂
Thanks for sharing your videos...... I am currently doing a domedtic electrical installation course. ...... these videos are very useful..... keep them comming......
is all ohms law a 120 light bulb at 60w run on 0.5 amp, now to find resistance 120v/0.5a is 240 ohm. no if you apply 240v on a 240 ohm you get 1 amp meaning that so 240v x 1a is 240 watt. see the effect... so the wattage quaduple from 60w to 240w when you double the voltage. A 120 v lightbulb at 60w is made with coil rated for that 0.5 current flow at 120 when you put 240 you double the amp capacity and also the voltage and quadruple the wattage which increases heat and brighter light however light bulb will burnt eventually
Wrong. Incandescent light bulbs are not simple devices where the amperage can be computed using ohms law at one voltage, and the amperage of it at some other voltage can be extrapolated from that. That is because they are not fixed resistance.
@DarkLinkAD. Try it, you will see I am right. My rough formula to predict the "new" wattage of an overvolted incandescent light is as follows: Use Vh as the higher voltage and Vn as the normal (rated) voltage. Compute (Vh/Vn). In this case 240/110 = 2.18. Call it Vr for the ratio of the voltages. Take the square root of Vr so Sqrt(2.18) = 1.48. Multiply the original wattage (60W) by Vr (2.18) and by Sqrt(Vr) = 1.48. The new wattage should be about 194W which is 60W * 2.18 * 1.48. A "shortcut" would be to multiply (Vr ^ 1.5) by the original wattage so 3.22 * 60W = 194 W. A super shortcut (you can do in your head), is if you double the voltage, the wattage will rougtly triple for an incandescent light bulb (more properly called a lamp). So for example, a 120V 100W rated incandescent lamp subjected to 240V would then be roughly 300 watts (actual will be closer to 283W but 300 is a decent "ballpark" estimate). How do I know this? I have tested it on low voltage incandescent lamps such as feeding 24V into a 12V lamp. Hopefully someone with the right equipment can help verify these formulas are good at higher voltages too such as 120V and 240V.
Process is correct but it is 110 to 230 so ratio is 4.372. Might have been easier to use p=V^2/R. R will cancel in the ratio and p230/p110=230^2 / 110^2
For those concerned about energy consumption, I recommend using 100w replacement(13w) for single bulb lamps, 60w replacement (9w) for lamps with 2 sockets, and 40w replacement(4.5w) for chandeliers with 4/5/7 or more sockets, I did it that way in my grandmother’s house and the results are very satisfying in brightness, now I’m waiting for the next 2 months to check the electricity bills to see how much I saved up, back then during the 2000s my grandma had the house filled with 60w incandescent and she told me that she used to pay over 180 US dollars in the bills as an average, when I began switching to LEDs on half the house, the bill reduced a little like 20 or 30 dollars less.
Hmmm..... That's interesting! I would have thought that the 110v lamp would have instantly fizzed-over in there and formed an arc, but then again.... maybe 240v in a lightbulb isn't grunty enough to do the "arc-in-a-lightbulb" thing to a 110v lamp. I know when Mr. Photon fizzed some lamps over, he got some 240v lamps to let loose on 360v approx and the power was enough that, when the filament broke, the juice continued in there and a huge arc formed and then burnt everything up inside the bulb, making it a very black colour, ROFL. :D He done that in his video called "Variac Overdrive". Thanx for showing, -BoomBoxDeluxe. _5th March 2015, 17.55_
***** Except incandescent lamps are nonlinear resistances and thus the resistance increases with increasing potential. I would expect a power dissipation of around 150W to 160W.
Aadil Shah I have lived in the states all My life. But back when I was a teen, we had a plug outlet in our living room, which looked almost like a standard outlet, except the two str8 prongs were slanted. ( As I found out later, it was 220, for an electric heater at one time. Most likely from back in the 1950's when the house was built ) at this time, My dad had a neighbor try to change it over to standard voltage by taking one of the 120v legs of the 220. and by putting a standard outlet in its place. To make a long story short, the neighbor did it wrong. and plugged a table lamp into it ,and the bulb exploded with much spark and flame. LOL he did get it right the second time though. So I guess the UK 120v bulbs are a little more hefty then the U.S
Surprised that didn't go pop more enthusiastically, like when you fit a 12v car bulb into a 24v truck. They normally pop violently enough to break the glass, and leave white/blue/grey swirly patterns on whatever glass is left
Nathan Lucas DC is a different beast from AC as DC never has a zero crossover whereas AC does twice per cycle. The zero crossover helps greatly to extinguish any arc that forms whereas DC will tend to sustain an arc for an extended period. The result is a much more violent failure...and the reason why the exact same fuse will have different maximum voltage ratings whether it is AC or DC that it will be interrupting (e.g. a fuse otherwise rated for 250VAC may only be rated for 32VDC). Also why relays have different AC and DC interrupt ratings as they too must break and extinguish any arc.
You know, I've always wondered this very thing. Interesting that you can get 110 V BC fittings - Assumed they would all be ES. Great stuff. I am edutained!
I remember working in a cinema about 20 years ago in the UK. The emergency lighting working on 50V. We had bayonent lighting using 240v and 50V. Same bulb, same fitting different voltage. One member of staff changed the staffroom light bulb but not realising there was a voltage difference. He had bit of a shock when he switched it on and it went bang. Slightly off topic, it was interesting how the 50v was done. There was a bank of lead acid batteries, on charge via the mains. The voltage drop was noticeable the further away you went from the power unit - as the lights went dimmer and dimmer. I wonder if they still make 50v incandescent bulbs?
Makes me remember the very old emergency lights or I should say exit signs that were in use at my primary school (In France during the 00s by the way). They weren't making any light except during power failures although I've seen them lit during a fire drill and since there was at least one that was missing its cover I got to see the bulb, which was a simple, clear incandescent one, but I don't remember if it was edison screw or bayonet cap. (BTW here in France we have both B22 and E27 as well as E14 bulb sockets.) No doubt they were powered by a battery bank somewhere behind a locked door at the school, maybe 50v, maybe whatever voltage. But eventually they did replace them all with modern emergency lights that have pilot lights (Either incandescent or 4 amber LEDs) constantly on and two 6v incandescent bulbs that come on during power failures and are powered by a small NiCad battery pack inside each fixture. No more central battery. These new fixtures are pretty standard in European countries by the way and usually come with a clear acrylic cover. When used as exit signs they have green/white stickers on them pointing at fire exits and when used as simple e-lights they don't have anything on them. Some have a small 6 or 8 watt fluorescent tube that comes on during power failures or sometimes even stays on all the time, replacing the pilot light that is only on when mains are available. Of course nowadays you'll find mostly all-LED fixtures, which still feature pilot lights, this time by dimming the same LEDs that will come on at full brightness during a power outage.
I'm relocating to Europe from the US soon and was hoping to take with me about 20 energy-efficient light bulbs the electricity company had sent us for free. It seems I'd better share them among my US colleagues before leaving...
the 110v rating uses up the oxygen more faster than the 240v when run at the standard 240v household current, the bulbs usually last a few seconds before filament burns out however that one you tested was a good one to have lasted as long as it did
The darkening is actually caused by tungsten vapor (from the extremely hot filament) condensing onto the much cooler (though still quite hot) glass globe of the lightbulb. If I had to guess, the 60W bulb was likely putting out around 240W of heat and illumination during its short life.
That is actually a way off. When you double the voltage of an incandescent lamp, the thermal resistance increases, thus preventing the amperage from doubling. The amperage should increase roughly by the square root of the voltage increase so if you double the voltage to an incandescent lamp, the amperage should be about 1.4 times the previous amperage (at the half voltage). So overall, the wattage should be about 2.8x of what it was previously so 2.8 * 60 watts = 168 watts, not 240.
It will run at 285 Watt, so it will be at least 4.7 times as bright. In fact, the higher temperature will cause it to emit even more visible light and become more energy efficient. On the downside, the lamp will fail after just one hour.
Ha, man that lasted a long time! I remember going spotlighting rabbits many years ago and I jumped into the cockies Landcruiser and plugged into the cigarette lighter, my 12 volt spotlight. Well, my spotlight lit up incredibly brightly and I remember thinking, "man this light works exceptionally well in this vehicle"! No sooner did I think that, then it suddenly went out... it was then that the cockie told me it was a 24 volt system and that ran through to the fag lighter! That would've taken all of about 2 - 3 seconds max!
1marcelfilms by the sound of his words " cocky " or " cockie" , is Australian slang word for a cow farmer ( as in " Cockatoo", the cockatoo bird is a pest to the Australian farmer but the farmer get that nicked name as there so many cockatoos as there is cow farmers. ), "Fag" is Australian slang word for cigarette, so I would say he is Australian not U.K.
The term in British english derives from the original meaning of a small wooden twig or stick one briefly places in a fire and carries to another fire or lamp to set it on fire (no electricity in those days). The pejorative term referred to younger boys hired to light fires and lamps in (the all-male) college dormitories.
@@vk3hau As an Aussie, I'm sorry to say I have NEVER heard the word Cockie. This is all I know Crikey = Shit Mate = Friend Cunt = Best Friend Yeah Nah = No Nah Yeah = Yes Strewth? = So it's true? Gidday = Hello, Good Morning/Afternoon. Bloke = Man Sheila = Woman Oi = Hey Oath = Used with Fucking and Bloody so for example, "Fucking Oath Cunt". Howzit Goin? = How are you going? Have a good one = Have a good day. Smoko = Work Break
Hey this is a good way to get rid of those old unwanted 120V incandescent lamps. Maybe wait until the winter or anytime it is cold and you want to get some chill out of the air inside your place of dwelling. Put 240V thru a 120V rated incandescent lamp and let it burn itself out. It will give you some heat. Make sure there are no kids or pets around that could come into contact with that hot bulb.
Thank you. I was going to use a 120 volt kettle in the uk, where the voltage is 230. I presume the same thing would happen, to my kettle, too. Would get some boiling water for tea but the kettle may break soon after that. Note update yourself to the uk standard, which is 230. Have a nice day.
New Zealand and Australia use the same bayonet connectors as the UK. I think Hong Kong do as well as they also use the same 13A style sockets (unless that changed after Chinese handover).
I brought a lamp from the USA & brought it to UK & all i did was change the plug but when I turned it on went BOOM! after 1 min. I tried 40w, 60w, 75w & 100w 120v USA bulbs that fit the lamp as the UK ones wont. Was fun though testing them.
+DrSysop Aren't Edison screw bulbs common in the UK? From my understand, particularly as you're in the UK, you will need to ensure you use a UK fused plug vs a plug adapter because of the higher amps in a UK light circuit.
J Groenveld Since about 1930, most branch circuits in the USA are at least 15A (providing about 1700-1800w per fuse or breaker). Some homes may have 20A branches, especially for kitchen circuits and in newer homes.
If you turn the dimmer down so the average voltage to down 110v then the bulb *probably* will act as it should. Still no guarantees - the way dimmers work means it still gets 240v but only half the time.
I took out two perfectly good 220v bulbs and replaced them with two 110s in a standard lamp and they 'blew' immediately. I replaced the 220s and now the lamp doesn't work at all. I presume I now need to change the fuse in the plug - is that correct, or shall I just bin the whole thing and buy a new one?
Theoretically the Bulb on the left (right sorry) would let off a more Whiter light roughly 3000K due to the filament temperature being more hotter. Also, the reason the bulb didn't die straight away or violently explode was because regular Argon Incandescents are more bullet proof than Halogen Incandescents which already run at a higher Filament Temperature. Also, since the 110v is 60W, the Filament is more thicker than say a 25W Incandescent. Now if you could step down the voltage to 220v, that bulb could last considerably longer, my guess is at least over an hour.
You can see how much thicker the filament of the 110 V bulb has to be, with how much longer it glows after being switched off compared to the 240 V one.
@@zuthalsoraniz6764 I actually didn't notice that, but by god watching that in slow motion, that Filament is incredibly thick. You would think if it were run at normal 110V, it would last for a very long time.
Let’s say that a 230 volt rated incandescent bulb draws 40 watts when used on a 120 volt circuit, but the bulb emits a dimmer and warmer light than a 40 watt bulb designed for use with 120 volts. If they both use tungsten filaments and their thickness and length both create the same resistance when 120 volts is supplied, leading them both to draw 40 watts, what accounts for the fact that the bulb designed for 230 volts is dimmer and a lower color temperature?
Hi John et al., Can you safely run 220v bulbs in a 110v U.S. system/socket? I ordered a bunch of 220 volt Edison bulbs by accident and I'm wondering if there's a workaround that is safe?
That is the opposite of what's in the video. If they are incandescent, then they will work on 110 but will be very dim. If they are LED then they may not work at all, it depends on how the circuit in them was designed.
What of you had a 110 volt wired lamp and used it with 220 vokt power? The lamp is a tiffany style lamp With two bulbs the same and a smaller one. Would it be safe to use like that with 220 volts e27 bulbs?
I bought a light stand from the US, which has 110v printed on it. With a 210-240v plug adapter to plug it into a 240v power socket, can I run a 240v light globe in it or do I have to purchase a 240-110 step-down transformer and run a 110v light globe?
same happend when i tested 100w and 60w bulb of 220v with 220v supply. 60w bulb glowed more brighter than 100w bulb. then i disconnected them to save my 60w bulb :P
Are those bayonet bases standard in England? They look like a much better design than our Edison screw bases. Watching this channel has really shown me the difference between European style electrical and American. Seems like the Euro electric is way better than ours!
Yes, bayonet have been the standard type for over 100 years. Most of Europe uses ES, and they can also be obtained here, usually found on imported light fittings.
Also I wonder what would happen to a 120V incandescent lamp if you somehow got a device that would switch it on and off rapidly (using 240V) such that it would be on 50% of the time and off 50% of the time like perhaps on and off 10 times per second so that the average voltage would be about 120. I wonder if that would greatly shorten its lifespan compared to a steady 120V feeding it.
The lifespan of the bulbs seems to be related to the heat (since it's the filament that burns out) so presumably running it at double the voltage but 50% duty cycle would give it a similar life to 100% at 120V, since you'd end up with the same heat output.
But there is a power spike when first turning on an incandescent lamp, since there is not much thermal resistance, so by putting 240V thru a 120V incandescent lamp at 50% pulsed (on/off) should NOT be the same as 120V thru it unpulsed (constant). It would be an interesting test.
@@davidjames1684 It would be an interesting test, because the spike should only happen the first time it's switched on - after that it has heated up so if the pulsing was fast enough there shouldn't be much difference - after all, the filament is already pulsed 100 times a second on a 50 Hz supply, so I guess to cause issues you'd have to pulse it slowly enough that the filament cools significantly between each switching.
@@davidjames1684 I suspect it could be a difficult test because even if you shorten the life by half, that's still thousands of hours of operation until you get a result!
The 110V lamp (light bulb) gets very hot at 240V, but I wonder what would happen if it was water cooled. For example, if it was placed inverted underwater and then hit with 240V. Not the entire lamp underwater, just the bulb portion (the glass part). Maybe a good way to burn off some excess power from a solar system, by converting it to hot water, maybe for a foot bath, to warm a small swimming pool (such as a baby pool)....
That should work fine, just don't dip the bulb in while it's already hot. Also, make sure you submerge all of the Glass in, otherwise the bulb could shatter due to uneven temperature. P.S Warm the water first, remove the Bulb, then put the baby in.
@@stoopidhaters not add salt to the water, dangle a 240v 9000 watt heating element in the water with exposed wires while the baby is in there naked? My bad.
Watching this, I often buy electrical (audio) equipment with a voltage adjuster switch, to be set depending on where the user lives. Assuming the equipment's internal circuitry is designed to run at a particular voltage, doesn't this make a nonsense of high end audio gear? Or am I missing something?
The internal circuitry is designed so it works on 110v when the switch is on the 110v position and 230v when the switch is on the 230v position. You still have to set the switch correctly or it might go bang.
4:30. Since the 110v was brighter on a 240v supply, how will it compare if you supply it with 110v. Main thing i want to know is do higher volt mostly equal brighter or less brighter
@@ProckerDark If that's the case, then that means the 110 V should have a Thicker Filament thus draws more current and can handle Voltage Overdrive. If only the bulbs weren't Frosted, we could compare the thickness.
UK and Europe is 230V +/- 10%, it's typically nearer to 240V in the UK. Bayonet lampholders have been the standard in the UK for over 100 years. Screw lampholders are usually found on cheapo imported affairs designed for other European countries.
Whats the reason for the one on the right being brighter if both have 240 volts going through them? Would of though they have the same current going through them
They do have the same current going through them, but because the 120V one has double the voltage, you end up with double the watts (remember watts is volts * current in amps). It's only rated at 60W with 120V, so double the voltage to 240V and you end up with double the watts at 120W, but the current in amps is still the same. It's the overall total power (in watts) that governs the brightness.
Rectifying 110V AC still gives 110V RMS with a peak of 156V. The lamp will draw the same current. Only if a filter capacitor is connected across the rectified supply will the voltage become 110 x .1.4142 = 156V.
I'd appreciate an expert advice on using photo studio lighting I once bought in the USA with 220V bulbs in Europe on 220V outlets. Is the voltage rating of switches, fittings and wiring really an issue? On the switch it states 110V but is there really a risk of a meltdown with the correct bulb? I've heard of people using all sorts of lamps from the US on 220V with 220V bulbs without any issues. The difference though could be that studio lighting has to run on much higher wattage, up to 100W fluorescent or 400W incandescent. Is it worth a (non-destructive) test or do I risk blowing up my expensive equipment? Cheers for any hint!
Voltage is only relevant to the quality of the insulation between the live parts - there will probably be no practical difference between lampholders designed for 120 or 220 volts. The total power is relevant, as for lamps it determines how hot they get. For anything above about 100W, you would typically need a ceramic lampholder as most plastic types will melt.
***** Thanks for the reply. The fittings are ceramic as heat is always an issue in studio lighting, in 220 and 110V countries alike. I was just worried about the metal parts like leads, the wiring in the switches and the metal inside the fittings. I'm not an electrician so I'm not sure about the inner workings. I'm just worried that 110V rated parts on 220V might heat up to the point they melt the insulation and cause shorts. It seems to me that US cables contain thinner metal leads than European ones and might overheat on 220.
US style plugs are rated for 125 Volts, so they should not be connected to 230 Volts. The metal leads within the cables must be thicker for 120 Volts equipment, because the lower voltage must be compensated with more current (aka amperage) in order to gain the same power (aka wattage). In Europe, the cables’ insulation is typically rated for 1000 Volts; I assume this is true for US cables as well, so there should be a generous safety margin.
@@jwflame So, I'm planning on using a 500w 220v e40 bulb in a 120v E27 socket rated at 100w (with a size adapter) . Any reason I should not do this? I reckon it should last many hours and give me enough light output..
***** Here in South Africa, we used to refer to the fitting and it's base as the 'lamp' and the bulb as a 'globe.' I say that we 'used to' because the younger generation tends to follow American English more often than not and there is no real language consistency anymore!
Aadil Shah Guess so...! I'm from South Africa too, but 'light bulb' just feels the most appropriate/correct to me. Lamp seems more broad as it could refer to the complete object (including the bulb holder), so I guess that may be a reason for less people using it to refer to the bulb itself these days
What I don't understand is that if 240v shorten's the life span of your average incandescent bulb then why did countries in Europe go with 240v instead of 120v U.S. standard.
There is no difference between 240V lamps on a 240V supply or 120V lamps on a 120V supply. This video is just demonstrating what happens with a 120V lamp on a 240V supply.
The bulb on the right is rated for 110V, therefore if you hit it with higher voltages such as 220V or 240V, it's not gonna last as long. If I plug a 110V Toaster into a 240V socket, I would be able to make breakfast quicker, but the components won't last as long.
The use of 240v was chosen because it is easier to transport the energy, less electricity was wasted during its transport, it requires thinner cables, and it is cheaper. And considering that the safety standards used in Europe / UK are enough so that no one gets hurt in case of electrocution in modern electrical installations.
Would a 240 volt incandescent bulb have a longer , shorter, or about the same lifespan as a 110 volt bulb ( with appropriate voltages supplied)? I'm curious if UK's 240 volts standard provides any advantages over our 120 volt U.S. standard?
rangerpru Lifespan should be the same at the correct voltage. The only real advantage is that smaller wires can be used for a given load, as if the voltage is double, the current will be half.
+John Ward The life span is same as it set to be same. There is trade between the light emitted and the life span. Bulbs works better at 110 volts than with 240 volts. That means one gets more lumens per watt at 110 volts. You could run two 110 volt lamps in series at 220 volts to get more light than with two 220 volt lamps in parallel. Similarly you get more lumens / watt with more powerful lamps. From what I understand the main advantage of the higher voltage is that one can have longer distance to the nearest transformer.
The worse that could happen is the switch might fail causing a short, but honestly I think it shouldn't happen. Just play safe if you decide to bring your Grandmother's Lamp to 220-240V Countries.
For lamps like this, doubling the voltage doubles the watts, halving the voltage halves the watts. Watts = volts * amps, and for lamps the amps are constant (based on the size of the filament in the lamp).
@@DarkLinkAD Ah you're right, I had forgotten about that. So how much would the resistance change and what would the wattage be at the different voltages?
Can United Kingdom wall sockets be wired on the same circuit as a dryer outlet in North America to get the same power from the United Kingdom in North America
You can only wire it for 220V if you actually have 220V available in your house. Even if you have, it would not be sensible to do so, as people could still put a 110V lamp in which will cause overheating and failure.
Worked at a new recycling plant recently where 110v cte was a fixed installation powering most of the lighting and machinery so appears not to be confined to construction sites anymore.
You guys suck when your superior light bulb sockets! Ha! Just kidding, of course, but those sockets would be handy here in America. Our Edison screws have a tendency to get stuck in outdoor light fixtures causing the bulb to break off the base when removing them. I bet those sockets help prevent getting those unpleasant shocks when removing bulbs from a lamp with reversed polarity. When I was growing up in the eighties and nineties, I never understand why you could get shocked when removing light bulbs even when the lamp was off. I was always curious about electricity as a kid, and in the mid-'90s, I finally learned about the polarity in our AC system. Pretty much all of our lamps were made no earlier than the 1970s with some going back into the 1930s. None of the plugs on the lamps were polarized so if the plug was reversed, the screw portion of the bulb base would become hot (or live) giving you a nasty shock if you touched the base as you removed the bulb whether it was on or not because the switch was on the center contact of the socket. Using a crude continuity tester I made from some wire, nine volt battery, nine volt battery connector, and a miniature Christmas light bulb and socket (fairy light), I determined the polarity of the lamp plug and marked it on the plug for future reference. In this way, I could polarize the plug visually. Here in the United States, the slot for the neutral side of the outlet is wider (or rather taller) than the hot side. Thankfully, all of our outlets in the house are properly polarized. Our electrical system was actually installed ahead of its time back in the mid-1960s with all the outlets having an available ground connection on 20 Amp circuits in spite of the aluminum wiring. OOPS! Well, you can actually work around that safety. I just wish we knew about that before two electric boxes got burned up after combining aluminum and copper wiring. Metal electrical boxes do help in preventing your whole house from going up in smoke. Strangely enough, the effects of using copper receptacles with aluminum wiring doesn't seem to be as damning. Actually, the electricians originally used copper receptacles and switches with the aluminum wiring. We discovered back in the seventies that if you tighten the screws on the receptacles good and tight, that seems to help a lot with the screws coming loose. They should be properly pigtailed with the aluminum wiring though. It's a dream of mine, but for now I just use anti-oxidant nuts when replacing outlets.
No, it won't. The reason is that the electrical resistance of a wire increases the hotter it gets. As the filament in the 110V lamp will be considerably hotter, then so will its resistance and consequently the actual dissipation will be lower than if the resistance was fixed. It's a shame John didn't measure the current draw so we could have seen that. It's not a small effect either. A 40w incandescent lamp that I have measures 100 ohms when cold. Theoretically that would dissipate 529w run at 230V. As it's a 40w lamp, it must have a resistance of over 1,300 ohms at working temperature, so more than 13 times the room temperature resistance. The over-run filament here would have run at much higher temperature than at its working voltage (and produced a "whiter" light with a higher proportion of emissions in the visible range). I should add that tungsten-halogens work like that. They have higher temperature filaments and produce a whiter light, but the composition of the gas envelope re-deposits tungsten back onto the filaments allowing them to last longer.
220v-240v is safe, and does not require such thick cables, and we have very sensitive circuit breakers and differentials. And I remind you that all houses in the USA have 240v in the circuit breaker box. And considering that we in Europe use schuko plugs, it is very difficult to get electrocuted. At 120v it needs more amperage, it requires thicker cables, type A-B plugs are unsafe, and considering that many houses are made of wood and can be dangerous in case of overheating, it can cause a fire. The type G plug that works at 240v is the best plug to date, it has fuse protection, the metal legs are thick and cannot be touched with your fingers, unlike the type A/B plug, which has metal contacts that They are exposed and can be dangerous. Many people from the USA see that the voltage of 220v-240v is unsafe without knowing the safety guidelines of each country, in Europe we have very strict guidelines on electrical safety. If you saw a European magneto-thermal or differential circuit breaker, you would be amazed, they go through rigorous safety requirements to be able to be approved. And I can assure you, that at the minimum these circuit breakers trip very easily. Then the plugs, the type F Schuko, it is impossible to put your fingers on the metal legs, it is impossible to get electrocuted in normal use.
Nick Clark Times from the original recording are: On at 1.41, switched off 3.25, on at 5.32, fails at 6.15. Initially on for 104 seconds, off for 127 seconds, on again for 43 seconds before failure. Total operating time 147 seconds.
As a minimum you will need a transformer, and for a 5hp motor it will be a large and expensive one. There may also be issues with the frequency, USA uses 60Hz, UK 50Hz. It may be cheaper to just buy another vacuum of the correct voltage.
Tom Jardine Most of the time, yes. Officially it's 230V, with the limits being -6% and +10%, so anywhere between 216 and 253 would be acceptable. However in the real world it's usually around 240V, just as it's been for decades. Although the definitions changed, the actual voltages supplied did not.
+John Ward Britain used to be 240 volts and the continental Europe used to be 220 volts. To create a common standard 230 volts was agreed. Maybe Brits did the change only in paper.
Yes, it is, although it's been relabeled as 230V during the European harmonization. But the main difference is the supply setup: * In the US, you have 2 phases in opposition, with a centered neutral (making your network a 120/240V). * In Europe, we have 3 phases with 120° between each other with a centered neutral. Thus, our network is 230/400V. However, 3 phases distribution is quite rare in households: you'll have it if you're far away from the transformer, or if you use a lot of power (e.g. in France, 3 phase supply is mandatory if you subscribe for 18kVA or more).
In most of Europe the Edison screw is common. In parts of France bayonet sockets are in use. In the UK these bayonets are common. In the US some use bayonet sockets too. So there is nothing like a special US socket, the only thing you could do is to check the labelling. A 230V bulb in a 115V system would function perfectly, wouldn't be as bright as a 115V bulb but it would last longer. I personally would prefer the bayonet because I think it's more safe than the Edison screw. The Edison screw socket must be connected correctly (L on the base contact and N on the thread), if it's not done this way you could get an electric shock during the change of the light bulb if the light switch is still on. That's the reason why clueless people shouldn't mess with the installation of such lamps.
+mgermi The edison screw puts the live as far as possible from inquisitive fingers. The bit about needing to be connected correctly is a red herring, that goes for any device. You could have a transistor radio that was hooked up incorrectly for safety inside and you'd also be none the wiser. No Edison screw involved. The bayonet mount has both contacts within easy reach and conveniently located near one another. There is no keying for the bayonet so you wind up with LED lights that have the live randomly hooked up dangerously. In other words, your warning about Edison screws is baked into the design of the bayonet with a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong each time you change the lamp.
"The edison screw puts the live as far as possible from inquisitive fingers." But not when you are using E27. There you could put in a finger very easily, especially small kids when there's no light bulb inside. A GU-socket would be safer, there you could not reach contacts without a tool. But the bulbs are more expensive than the bulbs with Edison screwing. Every system got it's pros and cons. "You could have a transistor radio that was hooked up incorrectly for safety inside and you'd also be none the wiser." Transistor radios are always class II devices if they are main-powered, or class III with external power supply. This is your "red herring". en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appliance_classes "so you wind up with LED lights that have the live randomly hooked up dangerously" That's the reason why they should never get an approval in Europe if the line could get touchable when using the device correctly. "is a red herring, that goes for any device" Not for any, in Germany when you are installing a wall socket there's only one rule: green/yellow in the middle connector. The Schuko-sockets are non-polarised. But there's an unwritten law here: install all sockets in a circuit the same way (L always on the same side). That's the reason why all portable appliances must have a double pole switch here. Regulations prohibit that only neutral is switched, and this could happen if you've got a non-polarised socket. You wouldn't guess how many guys here make the mistake to connect the Edison screw wrong. I've seen many videos here on RUclips, most made by home handymen: "whatever you connect it, this is alternating current and it's functional"....bullsh*t... And that was no warning, it was an advice. This advice to connect it properly couldn't be repeated often enough!
***** the trouble with the 2 pin bayonet fitting is on high wattage bulbs the solder on the bottom can become indented making them impossible to remove without extreme measures
brian whittle Indeed, used to be a problem with 150w lamps especially, especially the short-neck versions. You'd frequently twist the bulb out of the bayonet base then have to use pliers to remove what was left. Filing down the solder pips before installation was an option in places like lecture theatres
I was using 110v, 1 W led patio string light in India and it just went off after a min. Any inputs on how to get that working? I guess I fused it this time. But wait should the travel adapters not work as step down voltage? ruclips.net/video/Rt2u6W9gNUA/видео.html
Some adaptors convert voltage but most are just a set of different sockets and plugs. 220V into 110V LEDs will very quickly destroy them - your only option now is to buy a set of 220V LEDs.
@@jwflame Thanks for the quick response. When I look for bulbs online on ebay it shows Voltage for those bulbs(base=e26) as AC 110V/220V, does it mean it should work for both voltage types? in that case I was using the exact same type. do not see anything specific to 220v.
Probably listings where you select the voltage - although it's possible to make them multi-voltage it would be very unusual, normally they are designed for one voltage only.
As a retired professional photographer I remember using Philips Photolita bulbs in the 70s which were overrun to produce about 7500 lumens 240v 250w. That's about twice normal GLS but with a corresponding life of just 3 hours. Still available. They were used in pairs in a series/parallel circuit. Setting up was in series and then switched to parallel to take the shot.
wattsupmike ? I remember doing that; I built my own series/ parallel switch using two changeover switches. If you operated them in the wrong order, one would weld shut and the fuse would blow. I've moved on a bit since then!
3 hours is a VERY long time for something used momentarilly. Heck, if I had a Incan Flashlight with an overdriven bulb that could last 3 hours, that's plentiful especially how cheap they are.
Also, if you lived in rural areas of North America, you bought "farm bulbs", because they boosted the voltage to your farm to about 132-135v because of the greater distances to your farmhouse, and normal bulbs would just burn out faster.
We were getting about 3 hours out of the 110V lamps we had connected to 240V. Really bright white light, nice to work under. We did find that we could only switch them on once, the second time they would always blow. The heat output was tremendous.
I had the same issue with Overdriven Flashlight bulbs. I had several 2.4V Bulbs overdriven by 1x 18650 (4.2V) Battery. They could stay lit for several minutes, but if I turned it off then back on, instaflash. My Hypothesis is when the Bulb is on, the Filament stays in shape due to the Magnetic properties, but when turned off, the Filament cools down but has lost most of it's structural integrity. If only more research was put into Incandescents would we have Lightbulbs that could be overdriven but still have long service life.
The only snag here is , the 110 volt lamp is probably a what they call a
“ Rough service lamp “ which is suited to Applications on building sites etc
And thus probably built to better standards
The 240 volt lamp would last for eternity at 110 volts. Like the oldest lamp in the world still going but only burns dimly as it always has.
I was thinking the same thing. If some company sold 120 watt 240v bulbs, but branded as 60 watt 120v bulbs that last "forever" they could sell a ton of them, but then they'd go out of business because their customers would never buy another light bulb.
Such long life bulbs were sold. Essentially just de-rated. However, they wasted more money than they saved as they produced much less light, not to mention being much yellower in colour. The extra costs of electricity to produce the same amount of light vastly outweighed the savings in the cost of the bulbs. Further, those long life bulbs were sold at a premium price.
The only place de-rating makes sense, is for things like indicator lamps in car dashboards and so on where the amount of light isn't important but they are difficult to change.
Mentorcase Brazil uses 127V in Rio de Janeiro and 220V for Rio Grande do Norte.
That is some bad math. Putting 120V thru a lamp rated at 240V will NOT cause it to draw half as much power. The thermal resistance is lower at half voltage so it will draw MORE than half of the amperage compared to 240V. But since the voltage is half and the amperage will be maybe 2/3rds that at 240V, then 1/2*2/3 = 1/3 so it should be around 40 watts at 120V if it was 120 watts at 240V. At 110V is should be even lower than 40 watts. Also, it would NOT last an eternity. If the lamp is rated at say 2000 hours at its nominal voltage, I doubt running it at slightly less than half of that voltage will make it last longer than some of these 20,000 hour rated LED lamps. It is still subjected to other hazards such as vibration, rough handling, dropping, amperage spike when first turned on...
I have make some experiments that its not true that a 120w 240v bulb runs at 120v at 60w! the resistance is high dynamic at temperature! next its wrong that a bulb runs a million hours is bad for envioment! you forget how much energy industie use to create something and the energy to replace and drive to get new stuff... i worked 11 jears in industrie and some time in high energy reserch its just for make more profit that stuff have to fail fast!!!.. next if we create energy from solar thermie in the deserts change it to ethanol and burn it here its better to use a 770w long life insted a 100w short life for the same light output! next i like the red color of long life bulbs!
I'm surprised that the 110v bulb lasted as long as it did.
I had a personal experience about 30 years ago. I worked in a gatehouse at a factory. One day we suddenly had 235v on one leg and 0v on the other (this is the USA. Normal operation would be 235v between red and black wires. The white wire is neutral, white to red is 117v, and white to black is 117v. 99% of things people plug in use 117v).
Well, one winter day, our space heater in the shack turned white hot. I told the in-store electrician that we had 235v on one leg. He insisted this was impossible, and insisted that I caused the problem by "playing with" the heater. I told him the heater could only get hotter if there were more voltage across the wire, so he says "how can you say that?", and I answer "Ohm's Law!".
So he comes with a portable lamp. He plugs it into one socket, and I tell him "it won't light", he turns it on, no light. He takes the lamp to another socket, I tell him it will pop like a flashbulb. It does. He goes back into the plant with another bulb. It pops, too.
What happened was that someone on the cheap decided to place one breaker in the neutral in instead of one breaker in the red and one in the black. This worked fine until, somehow, one of the hots came into contact with the conduit and tripped the breaker in the neutral.
your explanation doesn't make sense, for example there is no such thing as ''hots'', it's called the Line cable. And what ''conduit''?.
How would this turn 117v into 235v? You fail to say where exactly the circuit completes if the neutral was cut off through the breaker.
Your story makes no sense and you sound a bit too biased towards telling it how you were mister smarty pants and other people were dumbasses.
@@llVIU Split phase with 2 x 117VAC hots would be 117 from each phase to the neutral and double that, 234VAC between the two phases. (And "hot" is a common term for line in US)
117v is one of the several historic voltages used in North America before full standardisation at 120. Actual tolerances are 114-126 so 117 is still possible, although unlikely a user would actually know that.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity#Standardisation
@@llVIU Are you kidding?
Made perfect sense.
You need to know how US electricity works.
Now go do some research before insulting someone else who actually knows what he is talking about.
Interesting to see that the 110v did work on the 240 I thought it would have popped immediately, cool to see that it actually did work, I wonder what would happen if you did the same test with a CFL Bulb
redneckbryon Instant bang as the electrolytic ripple suppression capacitor on the DC buss for the ballast is only rated for 200V. Overdriving lamps like this is how photoflood and related high luminance short life lamps work.
I live in the USA. I lived in an apartment a few years back that only got 108 volts. My light bulbs were noticeably dimmer than places I lived that got 120+ volts. When I moved back to a place that got 120 volts, I noticed right away that the bulbs were brighter. Even things like my microwave oven sounded a little different.
billybassman21 108V that's it?! Wow, the normal power for the US is 120V (not 110V) so that is way under. I wonder how that passed inspection. Some appliances (like A/Cs and refrigerators) don't work as well at such a low voltage, some might not even work at all! Also stuff like stereos won't be as loud. A normal UPS actually has a low voltage cut off (starts to raise the voltage) at about 107-110, so that electrical is considered vary poor.
Joshua's Recordings
It was so bad, when my roommate would turn his halogen lamp on in his room, my UPS for my computer would switch to battery. What's funny is we lived across from the substation for the area. I think it had something to do with the fact the apartments were old. I wonder if they had to install a hard start kit on any of the a/c units.
billybassman21 I wonder if you had knob and tube wiring. We live close to the substation and the power in our home (which is very old too, but as newer electrical) is 122V normal 125V max and 119V min.
Joshua's Recordings
It wasn't that old. The apartments I lived in then were built in 1970. Not really old, but old for the Houston area. I'm thinking there might have been a problem with the neutral wire coming in. Maybe there was an open or shared neutral. No telling.
@@billybassman21 , what apt. upper floor or bottom floor , closer to where the power comes in? a few years ago in an upper floor of an apt/condo unit. the in coming power was 208/120 volt 3 phase. on the upper floor the voltage was only around 200/ 112 volts. voltage drop was going on. who ever installed the wiring did it on the cheap and did not take into account the distance and did not upsize the wiring to the panel. so there was voltage drop going on and a spa unit needed larger wire to feed it, as the size wire it called for was not big enough to carry the load and did not work very good. would not get the spa hot.
Again I am very impressed by the 110V bulb. I live in Australia so this would be a neat little experiment.
Once in a while John I’d just love you to smile at the camera.
I know that I am very late finding this, I used to work in the labs for a lamp manufacturer, a "perk" was that we could have as many free lamps as we wanted. I pointed out to a colleague that with a 240v supply applied to a 220v lamp you got roughly 50% more light for your money. He was mean enough to not be worried about changing lamps every month. Something you might find interesting is to plot current against applied voltage on a tungsten lamp, you will find the curve surprising.
The resistance of a tungsten filament increases with its temperature which is why incandescent lamps exhibit a current inrush when first switched on with a cold filament. Doubling the supply voltage does not double the current once the filament reaches its (higher) stable temperature. An early application of this effect was a Wien bridge oscillator by Hewlett Packard which used an under-run lamp to stabilise its output.
A few years back I heard a story on tv a household was trying to get compensation after the neutral lug melted off the transformer supplying their house and a neighbor.
They were woken up by the electronics going pop and bang when he got up and turned lights on they were like the sun.
The house was effectively getting the voltage of two phases.
Josh C Also happens when people steal pieces of metal from substations.
Happened here in March when the neutral literally just fell off at the substation.
Red and blue phases shot up and white dropped down. Thank goodness because the white was running the CCTV, WiFi and fibre internet.
Yes we have 3 phase power.
@@the_real_hislordship the red and blue voltages didn't change at all. with the neutral removed, the voltage is now divided between the connected loads...if you had a 100w light bulb on one phase and a 40w on the other phase, one sees high voltage, the other low. if both phases had the identical loads on (i.e. 100w bulbs on both) the neutral being removed wouldn't have any affect on them..they would both have half of the phase to phase voltage
@@patricksommers2277 you haven't thought about 3 phase sequencing.
@@carsnmods1687 You're right... as i have no clue what you mean by that! a typical residential property is a single phase service. Even still, if it is a 3 phase service which some very large houses have, a neutral loss is still the same result
Very interesting, I expected it to fail pretty much immediately too, nice experiment :) .... I wonder why so many dislikes 🤐, people are so strange! Many thanks JW, love your videos :)
On a similar note Japan mains voltage is 100v, 50/60 Hz depending on East or West part. Light bulbs from there operated on 120v last maybe 5% of rated life. Conversely 120v light bulbs operated in Japan on 100v last 10-15X longer. Light output is only 2/3 normal so folks use 150 watt bulbs in place of 75-100w. Base p.x. only sell u.s. 120v bulbs.
Nivicoman
And the reason they don't make the 75-100w 100v bulbs the same way as 150w 120v bulbs is because people are cheap.
I have been quiet a few airplanes and in the bathroom the voltage is 110v for the Australian airline planes that I have noticed when I have flew to other cities here in Australia and to New Zealand. I thought they would put 230v power in the planes bathrooms. Check it out when your on a flight next time.
Dear Niv. Yes, it is very interesting in Japan, where the different Hz are. Few people realise that there is such a country. Would be a good question on Who Wants To Be A Millionaire tv quiz show.
Lol I remember when I was in the electrician appreciateship I said "bulb" and my boss said "what? It's a LAMP..... you're not planting tulips speak like a professional"😂😂😂
Thanks for sharing your videos...... I am currently doing a domedtic electrical installation course. ...... these videos are very useful..... keep them comming......
is all ohms law a 120 light bulb at 60w run on 0.5 amp, now to find resistance 120v/0.5a is 240 ohm.
no if you apply 240v on a 240 ohm you get 1 amp meaning that so 240v x 1a is 240 watt.
see the effect... so the wattage quaduple from 60w to 240w when you double the voltage.
A 120 v lightbulb at 60w is made with coil rated for that 0.5 current flow at 120 when you put 240 you double the amp capacity and also the voltage and quadruple the wattage which increases heat and brighter light however light bulb will burnt eventually
Wrong. Incandescent light bulbs are not simple devices where the amperage can be computed using ohms law at one voltage, and the amperage of it at some other voltage can be extrapolated from that. That is because they are not fixed resistance.
@@davidjames1684 Wrong. You have two first names.
@DarkLinkAD. Try it, you will see I am right. My rough formula to predict the "new" wattage of an overvolted incandescent light is as follows:
Use Vh as the higher voltage and Vn as the normal (rated) voltage.
Compute (Vh/Vn). In this case 240/110 = 2.18. Call it Vr for the ratio of the voltages.
Take the square root of Vr so Sqrt(2.18) = 1.48.
Multiply the original wattage (60W) by Vr (2.18) and by Sqrt(Vr) = 1.48.
The new wattage should be about 194W which is 60W * 2.18 * 1.48.
A "shortcut" would be to multiply (Vr ^ 1.5) by the original wattage so 3.22 * 60W = 194 W.
A super shortcut (you can do in your head), is if you double the voltage, the wattage will rougtly triple for an incandescent light bulb (more properly called a lamp). So for example, a 120V 100W rated incandescent lamp subjected to 240V would then be roughly 300 watts (actual will be closer to 283W but 300 is a decent "ballpark" estimate).
How do I know this? I have tested it on low voltage incandescent lamps such as feeding 24V into a 12V lamp. Hopefully someone with the right equipment can help verify these formulas are good at higher voltages too such as 120V and 240V.
Process is correct but it is 110 to 230 so ratio is 4.372. Might have been easier to use p=V^2/R. R will cancel in the ratio and p230/p110=230^2 / 110^2
Just put 2 120v bulbs in series and call it a day...... no maths necessary
.... hook ed on fonics work ed for ME
For those concerned about energy consumption, I recommend using 100w replacement(13w) for single bulb lamps, 60w replacement (9w) for lamps with 2 sockets, and 40w replacement(4.5w) for chandeliers with 4/5/7 or more sockets, I did it that way in my grandmother’s house and the results are very satisfying in brightness, now I’m waiting for the next 2 months to check the electricity bills to see how much I saved up, back then during the 2000s my grandma had the house filled with 60w incandescent and she told me that she used to pay over 180 US dollars in the bills as an average, when I began switching to LEDs on half the house, the bill reduced a little like 20 or 30 dollars less.
Just don't over volt 110V LEDs. The Driver and LED will have a mental breakdown in seconds.
@@stoopidhaters no one said anything about overloading the LEDs, my lamps are 110-220v lol and up to this day, no problem at all
@@beamishlotus7269 Ahh cool, they must have made the drivers accept a wide range of voltage which is pretty common in Flashlights.
Hmmm..... That's interesting! I would have thought that the 110v lamp would have instantly fizzed-over in there and formed an arc, but then again.... maybe 240v in a lightbulb isn't grunty enough to do the "arc-in-a-lightbulb" thing to a 110v lamp.
I know when Mr. Photon fizzed some lamps over, he got some 240v lamps to let loose on 360v approx and the power was enough that, when the filament broke, the juice continued in there and a huge arc formed and then burnt everything up inside the bulb, making it a very black colour, ROFL. :D
He done that in his video called "Variac Overdrive".
Thanx for showing,
-BoomBoxDeluxe.
_5th March 2015, 17.55_
P = U^2 / R so at 240 volts it should produce 285 watts.
***** Except incandescent lamps are nonlinear resistances and thus the resistance increases with increasing potential. I would expect a power dissipation of around 150W to 160W.
BoomBoxDeluxe I would expect 'instant death' for the 110V bulb if the test was repeated with 100W rated bulbs.
Aadil Shah
Not necessarily. Instant failure requires a bit more than double the rated supply potential.
Aadil Shah I have lived in the states all My life. But back when I was a teen, we had a plug outlet in our living room, which looked almost like a standard outlet, except the two str8 prongs were slanted. ( As I found out later, it was 220, for an electric heater at one time. Most likely from back in the 1950's when the house was built )
at this time, My dad had a neighbor try to change it over to standard voltage by taking one of the 120v legs of the 220. and by putting a standard outlet in its place. To make a long story short, the neighbor did it wrong. and plugged a table lamp into it ,and the bulb exploded with much spark and flame. LOL
he did get it right the second time though. So I guess the UK 120v bulbs are a little more hefty then the U.S
i thought it will blow😁, here incend lamp is rated at 220v but at night and morning grid voltage is 260v where lighting is needed
Thanks JW. Interesting and useful as usual.
Surprised that didn't go pop more enthusiastically, like when you fit a 12v car bulb into a 24v truck. They normally pop violently enough to break the glass, and leave white/blue/grey swirly patterns on whatever glass is left
Nathan Lucas DC is a different beast from AC as DC never has a zero crossover whereas AC does twice per cycle. The zero crossover helps greatly to extinguish any arc that forms whereas DC will tend to sustain an arc for an extended period. The result is a much more violent failure...and the reason why the exact same fuse will have different maximum voltage ratings whether it is AC or DC that it will be interrupting (e.g. a fuse otherwise rated for 250VAC may only be rated for 32VDC). Also why relays have different AC and DC interrupt ratings as they too must break and extinguish any arc.
put a few polarised capacitors backwards then
You know, I've always wondered this very thing. Interesting that you can get 110 V BC fittings - Assumed they would all be ES. Great stuff. I am edutained!
Even if all 110V were ES, you can get ES to BC adapters.
I remember working in a cinema about 20 years ago in the UK. The emergency lighting working on 50V. We had bayonent lighting using 240v and 50V. Same bulb, same fitting different voltage. One member of staff changed the staffroom light bulb but not realising there was a voltage difference. He had bit of a shock when he switched it on and it went bang.
Slightly off topic, it was interesting how the 50v was done. There was a bank of lead acid batteries, on charge via the mains. The voltage drop was noticeable the further away you went from the power unit - as the lights went dimmer and dimmer. I wonder if they still make 50v incandescent bulbs?
They are still made, but are rather expensive and are becoming much harder to find.
@@jwflame Some British rail coaches had 78 volt b/c lamps with a third pin
I bought a 50s Osram 50v 60w BC clear bulb from flea market years ago
Those Lead Acid Batteries produce 50VDC (Probably 60VDC 5x 12V Batteries) so even 110AC would be too much for it.
Makes me remember the very old emergency lights or I should say exit signs that were in use at my primary school (In France during the 00s by the way).
They weren't making any light except during power failures although I've seen them lit during a fire drill and since there was at least one that was missing its cover I got to see the bulb, which was a simple, clear incandescent one, but I don't remember if it was edison screw or bayonet cap. (BTW here in France we have both B22 and E27 as well as E14 bulb sockets.)
No doubt they were powered by a battery bank somewhere behind a locked door at the school, maybe 50v, maybe whatever voltage.
But eventually they did replace them all with modern emergency lights that have pilot lights (Either incandescent or 4 amber LEDs) constantly on and two 6v incandescent bulbs that come on during power failures and are powered by a small NiCad battery pack inside each fixture. No more central battery.
These new fixtures are pretty standard in European countries by the way and usually come with a clear acrylic cover.
When used as exit signs they have green/white stickers on them pointing at fire exits and when used as simple e-lights they don't have anything on them.
Some have a small 6 or 8 watt fluorescent tube that comes on during power failures or sometimes even stays on all the time, replacing the pilot light that is only on when mains are available.
Of course nowadays you'll find mostly all-LED fixtures, which still feature pilot lights, this time by dimming the same LEDs that will come on at full brightness during a power outage.
I'm relocating to Europe from the US soon and was hoping to take with me about 20 energy-efficient light bulbs the electricity company had sent us for free.
It seems I'd better share them among my US colleagues before leaving...
2:53 "grayish blackness inside" me too lamp, me too.
the 110v rating uses up the oxygen more faster than the 240v when run at the standard 240v household current, the bulbs usually last a few seconds before filament burns out however that one you tested was a good one to have lasted as long as it did
jason adams no oxygen in light globes, it will have Argon and some nitrogen, or maybe krypton, but no oxygen, earlier globes had a vacuum.
The darkening is actually caused by tungsten vapor (from the extremely hot filament) condensing onto the much cooler (though still quite hot) glass globe of the lightbulb. If I had to guess, the 60W bulb was likely putting out around 240W of heat and illumination during its short life.
That is actually a way off. When you double the voltage of an incandescent lamp, the thermal resistance increases, thus preventing the amperage from doubling. The amperage should increase roughly by the square root of the voltage increase so if you double the voltage to an incandescent lamp, the amperage should be about 1.4 times the previous amperage (at the half voltage). So overall, the wattage should be about 2.8x of what it was previously so 2.8 * 60 watts = 168 watts, not 240.
"The light that burns twice as bright burns half as long" - Tyrell
It will run at 285 Watt, so it will be at least 4.7 times as bright. In fact, the higher temperature will cause it to emit even more visible light and become more energy efficient. On the downside, the lamp will fail after just one hour.
Actually in real life it is more like 10% brighter lasts half the time (assuming it is because of too high voltage and not by design)
_" Burn all the underwear, leave no evidence behind, heee heeee hee"_ *Micheal Jackson* .
@@schwertdornenheck458 Probably some UV as well though not enough to cause damage though you wouldn't wanna stare at Intense White Light anyway.
@@schwertdornenheck458 Probably some UV as well though not enough to cause damage though you wouldn't wanna stare at Intense White Light anyway.
That was very bright on 240v, I wonder how bright it would be on 340vdc or 415vac :-)
Ha, man that lasted a long time! I remember going spotlighting rabbits many years ago and I jumped into the cockies Landcruiser and plugged into the cigarette lighter, my 12 volt spotlight. Well, my spotlight lit up incredibly brightly and I remember thinking, "man this light works exceptionally well in this vehicle"! No sooner did I think that, then it suddenly went out... it was then that the cockie told me it was a 24 volt system and that ran through to the fag lighter! That would've taken all of about 2 - 3 seconds max!
1marcelfilms by the sound of his words " cocky " or " cockie" , is Australian slang word for a cow farmer ( as in " Cockatoo", the cockatoo bird is a pest to the Australian farmer but the farmer get that nicked name as there so many cockatoos as there is cow farmers. ), "Fag" is Australian slang word for cigarette, so I would say he is Australian not U.K.
The term in British english derives from the original meaning of a small wooden twig or stick one briefly places in a fire and carries to another fire or lamp to set it on fire (no electricity in those days).
The pejorative term referred to younger boys hired to light fires and lamps in (the all-male) college dormitories.
@@1L6E6VHF Dont forget those who polish knobs with great detail, using only saliva and great willpower can a knob shine so brightly.
@@vk3hau As an Aussie, I'm sorry to say I have NEVER heard the word Cockie. This is all I know
Crikey = Shit
Mate = Friend
Cunt = Best Friend
Yeah Nah = No
Nah Yeah = Yes
Strewth? = So it's true?
Gidday = Hello, Good Morning/Afternoon.
Bloke = Man
Sheila = Woman
Oi = Hey
Oath = Used with Fucking and Bloody so for example, "Fucking Oath Cunt".
Howzit Goin? = How are you going?
Have a good one = Have a good day.
Smoko = Work Break
@@DarkLinkAD Yes, my knob certainly shines brightly when coated in Saliva.
thank you, now I understand why my japanese nutribullet died in UK :)
240V kills 100V like sniper.
Thanks for video John
Hey this is a good way to get rid of those old unwanted 120V incandescent lamps. Maybe wait until the winter or anytime it is cold and you want to get some chill out of the air inside your place of dwelling. Put 240V thru a 120V rated incandescent lamp and let it burn itself out. It will give you some heat. Make sure there are no kids or pets around that could come into contact with that hot bulb.
Legendary. I love you.
Thank you. I was going to use a 120 volt kettle in the uk, where the voltage is 230. I presume the same thing would happen, to my kettle, too. Would get some boiling water for tea but the kettle may break soon after that. Note update yourself to the uk standard, which is 230. Have a nice day.
It was only rated at 120? Many devices go to 220 or more
At least you'll be able to make a Cup of tea 'TWICE AS FAST' or Toast.
New Zealand and Australia use the same bayonet connectors as the UK. I think Hong Kong do as well as they also use the same 13A style sockets (unless that changed after Chinese handover).
Peter Edin No change till yet (Jan 2018).
New Zealand and Australia use 230/240V, so no problem.
France and Spain also use b/c holders randomly
Bulb lifetime is reckoned to vary as (V1/V2)^13 * nominal life. For this scenario a 5000 hour bulb would fail at 11 minutes - not too far off
I brought a lamp from the USA & brought it to UK & all i did was change the plug but when I turned it on went BOOM! after 1 min. I tried 40w, 60w, 75w & 100w 120v USA bulbs that fit the lamp as the UK ones wont. Was fun though testing them.
+DrSysop Aren't Edison screw bulbs common in the UK?
From my understand, particularly as you're in the UK, you will need to ensure you use a UK fused plug vs a plug adapter because of the higher amps in a UK light circuit.
+pmailkeey that too. But can US style cabling is only rated to 10amps. Would that be a problem in the UK?
+pmailkeey aww make sense now. I heard the amps on a UK domestic circuit was higher than 10amps
J Groenveld
Since about 1930, most branch circuits in the USA are at least 15A (providing about 1700-1800w per fuse or breaker). Some homes may have 20A branches, especially for kitchen circuits and in newer homes.
+J Groenveld the higher voltage would mean lower amperage, given the same wattage
TY for the vid, now let's try to power a 110V lightbulb on a 415V supply :3
last less than 0.5seconds or to put it in a better way as soon as you flick the switch bulb goes with a bang
I popped it.
Bulbs grow in the garden / lamps illuminate
IF A DIMMER SWITCH WAS USED AND TURNED DOWN WOULD THE BULB THEN LAST LONGER?
If you turn the dimmer down so the average voltage to down 110v then the bulb *probably* will act as it should. Still no guarantees - the way dimmers work means it still gets 240v but only half the time.
The bulb doesn’t care about 240 Volt spikes. But you would have to make sure the average power consumtion does not exceed 60 Watts.
I took out two perfectly good 220v bulbs and replaced them with two 110s in a standard lamp and they 'blew' immediately. I replaced the 220s and now the lamp doesn't work at all. I presume I now need to change the fuse in the plug - is that correct, or shall I just bin the whole thing and buy a new one?
Fuse is very likely
Theoretically the Bulb on the left (right sorry) would let off a more Whiter light roughly 3000K due to the filament temperature being more hotter. Also, the reason the bulb didn't die straight away or violently explode was because regular Argon Incandescents are more bullet proof than Halogen Incandescents which already run at a higher Filament Temperature. Also, since the 110v is 60W, the Filament is more thicker than say a 25W Incandescent.
Now if you could step down the voltage to 220v, that bulb could last considerably longer, my guess is at least over an hour.
You can see how much thicker the filament of the 110 V bulb has to be, with how much longer it glows after being switched off compared to the 240 V one.
@@zuthalsoraniz6764 I actually didn't notice that, but by god watching that in slow motion, that Filament is incredibly thick. You would think if it were run at normal 110V, it would last for a very long time.
Let’s say that a 230 volt rated incandescent bulb draws 40 watts when used on a 120 volt circuit, but the bulb emits a dimmer and warmer light than a 40 watt bulb designed for use with 120 volts. If they both use tungsten filaments and their thickness and length both create the same resistance when 120 volts is supplied, leading them both to draw 40 watts, what accounts for the fact that the bulb designed for 230 volts is dimmer and a lower color temperature?
Why do people keep saying 110 volts? Is there actually a country with 110 volts?
US, Japan.
@@stoopidhaters We have 120 volts in the US. I've never heard of mains being 110 volts in the US. Maybe it is 110 in Japan?
Hi John et al., Can you safely run 220v bulbs in a 110v U.S. system/socket? I ordered a bunch of 220 volt Edison bulbs by accident and I'm wondering if there's a workaround that is safe?
That is the opposite of what's in the video. If they are incandescent, then they will work on 110 but will be very dim.
If they are LED then they may not work at all, it depends on how the circuit in them was designed.
What of you had a 110 volt wired lamp and used it with 220 vokt power?
The lamp is a tiffany style lamp With two bulbs the same and a smaller one.
Would it be safe to use like that with 220 volts e27 bulbs?
Only if the lampholder, switch, flexible cord and plug are all rated for 220V.
That was awesome! 🎸
I bought a light stand from the US, which has 110v printed on it. With a 210-240v plug adapter to plug it into a 240v power socket, can I run a 240v light globe in it or do I have to purchase a 240-110 step-down transformer and run a 110v light globe?
it will work from 240V with a 240V lamp, however the real question is whether the wiring and lampholders are suitable for use at 240V.
same happend when i tested 100w and 60w bulb of 220v with 220v supply. 60w bulb glowed more brighter than 100w bulb. then i disconnected them to save my 60w bulb :P
Are those bayonet bases standard in England? They look like a much better design than our Edison screw bases. Watching this channel has really shown me the difference between European style electrical and American. Seems like the Euro electric is way better than ours!
Yes, bayonet have been the standard type for over 100 years.
Most of Europe uses ES, and they can also be obtained here, usually found on imported light fittings.
I use ,240V 100W lamps on a dimmer switch and never turn it up to 100% most of my lights still work after 20 years,
Also I wonder what would happen to a 120V incandescent lamp if you somehow got a device that would switch it on and off rapidly (using 240V) such that it would be on 50% of the time and off 50% of the time like perhaps on and off 10 times per second so that the average voltage would be about 120. I wonder if that would greatly shorten its lifespan compared to a steady 120V feeding it.
The lifespan of the bulbs seems to be related to the heat (since it's the filament that burns out) so presumably running it at double the voltage but 50% duty cycle would give it a similar life to 100% at 120V, since you'd end up with the same heat output.
But there is a power spike when first turning on an incandescent lamp, since there is not much thermal resistance, so by putting 240V thru a 120V incandescent lamp at 50% pulsed (on/off) should NOT be the same as 120V thru it unpulsed (constant). It would be an interesting test.
@@davidjames1684 It would be an interesting test, because the spike should only happen the first time it's switched on - after that it has heated up so if the pulsing was fast enough there shouldn't be much difference - after all, the filament is already pulsed 100 times a second on a 50 Hz supply, so I guess to cause issues you'd have to pulse it slowly enough that the filament cools significantly between each switching.
Someone should try it and report back.
@@davidjames1684 I suspect it could be a difficult test because even if you shorten the life by half, that's still thousands of hours of operation until you get a result!
Is the right light bulb running at 120 watts then?
Approximately 240W, double voltage across a fixed resistance is 4x the power.
@@jwflame oh wow. Why is that? Thanks for replying, your video was good
Power is voltage x current. If you double the voltage, it also doubles the current, so 2x volts and 2x current = 4x power.
Serious. Separate the switches for your video, they’re are separate systems with the same rated light bulb for example. 💡
Great demo.
The 110V lamp (light bulb) gets very hot at 240V, but I wonder what would happen if it was water cooled. For example, if it was placed inverted underwater and then hit with 240V. Not the entire lamp underwater, just the bulb portion (the glass part). Maybe a good way to burn off some excess power from a solar system, by converting it to hot water, maybe for a foot bath, to warm a small swimming pool (such as a baby pool)....
That should work fine, just don't dip the bulb in while it's already hot. Also, make sure you submerge all of the Glass in, otherwise the bulb could shatter due to uneven temperature.
P.S Warm the water first, remove the Bulb, then put the baby in.
@@stoopidhaters not add salt to the water, dangle a 240v 9000 watt heating element in the water with exposed wires while the baby is in there naked? My bad.
Watching this, I often buy electrical (audio) equipment with a voltage adjuster switch, to be set depending on where the user lives. Assuming the equipment's internal circuitry is designed to run at a particular voltage, doesn't this make a nonsense of high end audio gear? Or am I missing something?
The internal circuitry is designed so it works on 110v when the switch is on the 110v position and 230v when the switch is on the 230v position.
You still have to set the switch correctly or it might go bang.
I have never seen a bayonet style 110....
4:30. Since the 110v was brighter on a 240v supply, how will it compare if you supply it with 110v. Main thing i want to know is do higher volt mostly equal brighter or less brighter
if the right one gets supplied with with 110V it will light equally to the left one because both of them are 60 watt lamps
@@ProckerDark If that's the case, then that means the 110 V should have a Thicker Filament thus draws more current and can handle Voltage Overdrive. If only the bulbs weren't Frosted, we could compare the thickness.
Well I thought Europe used 220 not 240. And why the 110 or 120 bulb with the car light socket types?? where is that from ad why??
UK and Europe is 230V +/- 10%, it's typically nearer to 240V in the UK.
Bayonet lampholders have been the standard in the UK for over 100 years.
Screw lampholders are usually found on cheapo imported affairs designed for other European countries.
@@jwflame
I got a lamp here for the US that's a bit unusual as the bulb it takes has 2 pins sticking out.
Whats the reason for the one on the right being brighter if both have 240 volts going through them? Would of though they have the same current going through them
They do have the same current going through them, but because the 120V one has double the voltage, you end up with double the watts (remember watts is volts * current in amps). It's only rated at 60W with 120V, so double the voltage to 240V and you end up with double the watts at 120W, but the current in amps is still the same. It's the overall total power (in watts) that governs the brightness.
How long last a 110 volt lamp on rectified AC 110 volts?
The top to top 110 volt ac is +- 170 volt DC.
Much shorter?
Rectifying 110V AC still gives 110V RMS with a peak of 156V. The lamp will draw the same current. Only if a filter capacitor is connected across the rectified supply will the voltage become 110 x .1.4142 = 156V.
I'd appreciate an expert advice on using photo studio lighting I once bought in the USA with 220V bulbs in Europe on 220V outlets. Is the voltage rating of switches, fittings and wiring really an issue? On the switch it states 110V but is there really a risk of a meltdown with the correct bulb? I've heard of people using all sorts of lamps from the US on 220V with 220V bulbs without any issues. The difference though could be that studio lighting has to run on much higher wattage, up to 100W fluorescent or 400W incandescent. Is it worth a (non-destructive) test or do I risk blowing up my expensive equipment? Cheers for any hint!
Voltage is only relevant to the quality of the insulation between the live parts - there will probably be no practical difference between lampholders designed for 120 or 220 volts.
The total power is relevant, as for lamps it determines how hot they get. For anything above about 100W, you would typically need a ceramic lampholder as most plastic types will melt.
***** Thanks for the reply. The fittings are ceramic as heat is always an issue in studio lighting, in 220 and 110V countries alike. I was just worried about the metal parts like leads, the wiring in the switches and the metal inside the fittings. I'm not an electrician so I'm not sure about the inner workings. I'm just worried that 110V rated parts on 220V might heat up to the point they melt the insulation and cause shorts. It seems to me that US cables contain thinner metal leads than European ones and might overheat on 220.
US style plugs are rated for 125 Volts, so they should not be connected to 230 Volts. The metal leads within the cables must be thicker for 120 Volts equipment, because the lower voltage must be compensated with more current (aka amperage) in order to gain the same power (aka wattage). In Europe, the cables’ insulation is typically rated for 1000 Volts; I assume this is true for US cables as well, so there should be a generous safety margin.
@@jwflame So, I'm planning on using a 500w 220v e40 bulb in a 120v E27 socket rated at 100w (with a size adapter) . Any reason I should not do this? I reckon it should last many hours and give me enough light output..
More correctly "lamp" instead of "light bulb" ? Don't know about that. lamp is more ambiguous and could also refer to gas/parrafin powered lamps etc
Dimitri Pappas Lamp is the correct term, but most people tend to use light bulb.
***** Here in South Africa, we used to refer to the fitting and it's base as the 'lamp' and the bulb as a 'globe.'
I say that we 'used to' because the younger generation tends to follow American English more often than not and there is no real language consistency anymore!
Aadil Shah Guess so...! I'm from South Africa too, but 'light bulb' just feels the most appropriate/correct to me. Lamp seems more broad as it could refer to the complete object (including the bulb holder), so I guess that may be a reason for less people using it to refer to the bulb itself these days
UK electricians parlance: the lamp is the thing that makes the light; the luminaire is the thing the lamp is held in. The two together make a light.
What I don't understand is that if 240v shorten's the life span of your average incandescent bulb then why did countries in Europe go with 240v instead of 120v U.S. standard.
There is no difference between 240V lamps on a 240V supply or 120V lamps on a 120V supply.
This video is just demonstrating what happens with a 120V lamp on a 240V supply.
The bulb on the right is rated for 110V, therefore if you hit it with higher voltages such as 220V or 240V, it's not gonna last as long. If I plug a 110V Toaster into a 240V socket, I would be able to make breakfast quicker, but the components won't last as long.
The use of 240v was chosen because it is easier to transport the energy, less electricity was wasted during its transport, it requires thinner cables, and it is cheaper.
And considering that the safety standards used in Europe / UK are enough so that no one gets hurt in case of electrocution in modern electrical installations.
Whats the difference in construction ?
Higher voltage versions have a thinner or longer filament, so that the resistance is higher.
Would a 240 volt incandescent bulb have a longer , shorter, or about the same lifespan as a 110 volt bulb ( with appropriate voltages supplied)?
I'm curious if UK's 240 volts standard provides any advantages over our 120 volt U.S. standard?
rangerpru Lifespan should be the same at the correct voltage.
The only real advantage is that smaller wires can be used for a given load, as if the voltage is double, the current will be half.
+John Ward The life span is same as it set to be same. There is trade between the light emitted and the life span. Bulbs works better at 110 volts than with 240 volts. That means one gets more lumens per watt at 110 volts. You could run two 110 volt lamps in series at 220 volts to get more light than with two 220 volt lamps in parallel. Similarly you get more lumens / watt with more powerful lamps.
From what I understand the main advantage of the higher voltage is that one can have longer distance to the nearest transformer.
Thinner wires and sockets too. My vacuum cleaner and dryer plug into normal wall sockets.
That's not true. Incandescent lamp efficiency depends solely on filament temperature as it's black body radiation.
@@TheEulerID **Ebony Heat
In what country are 110v B22 bulbs standard?
None, they are intended for UK construction sites where 110 volt centre tap supplies are used.
Point ne to where i can buy those storage boxes above the vase.
In the UK available from CPC, cpc.farnell.com/raaco/126762/cabinet-organiser-44-compartment/dp/SG32824
or elsewhere just search for 'RAACO 126762'
What happens if your lamp is rated 110v but both your power supply and your bulb are 220v???
The worse that could happen is the switch might fail causing a short, but honestly I think it shouldn't happen. Just play safe if you decide to bring your Grandmother's Lamp to 220-240V Countries.
It would be nice to know the actual wattage of the 240V light in a 120V outlet and the actual wattage of the 120V lamp in a 240V outlet.
For lamps like this, doubling the voltage doubles the watts, halving the voltage halves the watts. Watts = volts * amps, and for lamps the amps are constant (based on the size of the filament in the lamp).
@@Berkeloid0 Nahh. Pretty sure thats not right at all.
@@DarkLinkAD Yeahh, it's definitely right.
@@Berkeloid0 yeah, look into ohms law, then account for element resistance changing with heat. It's not double.
@@DarkLinkAD Ah you're right, I had forgotten about that. So how much would the resistance change and what would the wattage be at the different voltages?
Can United Kingdom wall sockets be wired on the same circuit as a dryer outlet in North America to get the same power from the United Kingdom in North America
@LabRat Knatz No bond to neutral becuause UK used fused neutrals until 1955. And they had various types of grounded plugs in the 1920s.
Try it with an incandescent lamp rated at 130V. I suspect it will last much longer than 147 seconds.
You're voice reminds me of that of a radio talker
okay i bought some 220 volt reptile bulbs by mistake and how do you wire a light socket for 220 v
sorry our main it 110 volt
You can only wire it for 220V if you actually have 220V available in your house. Even if you have, it would not be sensible to do so, as people could still put a 110V lamp in which will cause overheating and failure.
Worked at a new recycling plant recently where 110v cte was a fixed installation powering most of the lighting and machinery so appears not to be confined to construction sites anymore.
You guys suck when your superior light bulb sockets! Ha! Just kidding, of course, but those sockets would be handy here in America. Our Edison screws have a tendency to get stuck in outdoor light fixtures causing the bulb to break off the base when removing them. I bet those sockets help prevent getting those unpleasant shocks when removing bulbs from a lamp with reversed polarity. When I was growing up in the eighties and nineties, I never understand why you could get shocked when removing light bulbs even when the lamp was off. I was always curious about electricity as a kid, and in the mid-'90s, I finally learned about the polarity in our AC system. Pretty much all of our lamps were made no earlier than the 1970s with some going back into the 1930s. None of the plugs on the lamps were polarized so if the plug was reversed, the screw portion of the bulb base would become hot (or live) giving you a nasty shock if you touched the base as you removed the bulb whether it was on or not because the switch was on the center contact of the socket. Using a crude continuity tester I made from some wire, nine volt battery, nine volt battery connector, and a miniature Christmas light bulb and socket (fairy light), I determined the polarity of the lamp plug and marked it on the plug for future reference. In this way, I could polarize the plug visually. Here in the United States, the slot for the neutral side of the outlet is wider (or rather taller) than the hot side. Thankfully, all of our outlets in the house are properly polarized. Our electrical system was actually installed ahead of its time back in the mid-1960s with all the outlets having an available ground connection on 20 Amp circuits in spite of the aluminum wiring. OOPS! Well, you can actually work around that safety. I just wish we knew about that before two electric boxes got burned up after combining aluminum and copper wiring. Metal electrical boxes do help in preventing your whole house from going up in smoke. Strangely enough, the effects of using copper receptacles with aluminum wiring doesn't seem to be as damning. Actually, the electricians originally used copper receptacles and switches with the aluminum wiring. We discovered back in the seventies that if you tighten the screws on the receptacles good and tight, that seems to help a lot with the screws coming loose. They should be properly pigtailed with the aluminum wiring though. It's a dream of mine, but for now I just use anti-oxidant nuts when replacing outlets.
it will be drawing around 265 watts there
No, it won't. The reason is that the electrical resistance of a wire increases the hotter it gets. As the filament in the 110V lamp will be considerably hotter, then so will its resistance and consequently the actual dissipation will be lower than if the resistance was fixed. It's a shame John didn't measure the current draw so we could have seen that.
It's not a small effect either. A 40w incandescent lamp that I have measures 100 ohms when cold. Theoretically that would dissipate 529w run at 230V. As it's a 40w lamp, it must have a resistance of over 1,300 ohms at working temperature, so more than 13 times the room temperature resistance.
The over-run filament here would have run at much higher temperature than at its working voltage (and produced a "whiter" light with a higher proportion of emissions in the visible range). I should add that tungsten-halogens work like that. They have higher temperature filaments and produce a whiter light, but the composition of the gas envelope re-deposits tungsten back onto the filaments allowing them to last longer.
Would a dryer outlet power a 240 volt lightbulb
If it's a 240V outlet, then yes.
Voltage doesn't care what the load is.
220v-240v is more dangerous than 110v. 110v is much safer for the household.
Nah, pretty sure 110V is more dangerous. I live in Australia, 240V is completely safe.
220v-240v is safe, and does not require such thick cables, and we have very sensitive circuit breakers and differentials.
And I remind you that all houses in the USA have 240v in the circuit breaker box. And considering that we in Europe use schuko plugs, it is very difficult to get electrocuted.
At 120v it needs more amperage, it requires thicker cables, type A-B plugs are unsafe, and considering that many houses are made of wood and can be dangerous in case of overheating, it can cause a fire.
The type G plug that works at 240v is the best plug to date, it has fuse protection, the metal legs are thick and cannot be touched with your fingers, unlike the type A/B plug, which has metal contacts that They are exposed and can be dangerous.
Many people from the USA see that the voltage of 220v-240v is unsafe without knowing the safety guidelines of each country, in Europe we have very strict guidelines on electrical safety.
If you saw a European magneto-thermal or differential circuit breaker, you would be amazed, they go through rigorous safety requirements to be able to be approved.
And I can assure you, that at the minimum these circuit breakers trip very easily.
Then the plugs, the type F Schuko, it is impossible to put your fingers on the metal legs, it is impossible to get electrocuted in normal use.
This helping me fall,asleep.
Around 4:10 you accidentally said 110 watt instead of volt >.
Technically it was close to 110 watts (actually 120 watts) since running it at double the voltage also doubles the watts :)
Outrageous!
How does one wire a 110v lamp socket with 240v
1. buy 110v lamp socket
2. wire it to 240v
Put two in tandem, like the “100 year night light.” Then you should probably be able to successfully operate 1(2)0v bulbs on 240v
Doesn't happen here lol a 120 will not work on 240 must be some different bulb
Nobody curious about how long the 110v lamp lasted???? Surely the whole point of the test...
Nick Clark Times from the original recording are:
On at 1.41, switched off 3.25, on at 5.32, fails at 6.15.
Initially on for 104 seconds, off for 127 seconds, on again for 43 seconds before failure.
Total operating time 147 seconds.
Perfect thanks
i have just bought a 5hp ridgid vacuum from the us 120v will it just fry like this doo i need a converter
As a minimum you will need a transformer, and for a 5hp motor it will be a large and expensive one.
There may also be issues with the frequency, USA uses 60Hz, UK 50Hz.
It may be cheaper to just buy another vacuum of the correct voltage.
A 110v construction site transformer should do it nicely.
(given Ridgid is a store brand, the 5hp is likely on the 'exaggerated' side of reality :)
@@TheChipmunk2008 Its likely 1500 watts. Mabye 1875 watts if its really old.
Boom will happen
Simply stops working... 😂
Math.. It works
lies.
Is uk voltage 240v?
Tom Jardine Most of the time, yes. Officially it's 230V, with the limits being -6% and +10%, so anywhere between 216 and 253 would be acceptable. However in the real world it's usually around 240V, just as it's been for decades. Although the definitions changed, the actual voltages supplied did not.
+John Ward Britain used to be 240 volts and the continental Europe used to be 220 volts. To create a common standard 230 volts was agreed. Maybe Brits did the change only in paper.
the cheeky bastards ....lol
Yes, it is, although it's been relabeled as 230V during the European harmonization.
But the main difference is the supply setup:
* In the US, you have 2 phases in opposition, with a centered neutral (making your network a 120/240V).
* In Europe, we have 3 phases with 120° between each other with a centered neutral. Thus, our network is 230/400V. However, 3 phases distribution is quite rare in households: you'll have it if you're far away from the transformer, or if you use a lot of power (e.g. in France, 3 phase supply is mandatory if you subscribe for 18kVA or more).
No in Europe (Poland) 3 phases witch 230v
And transformer Medium voltage to low voltage standard power 400KVA
I just wish future will be without cables 😎
Why would anyone make a 110V bulb with UK style mounting?
They are used for temporary lighting on construction sites, supplied via 55-0-55 transformers.
+John Ward I see. Still seems like they should have a US style screw or another unique mount for safety.
In most of Europe the Edison screw is common. In parts of France bayonet sockets are in use. In the UK these bayonets are common. In the US some use bayonet sockets too. So there is nothing like a special US socket, the only thing you could do is to check the labelling. A 230V bulb in a 115V system would function perfectly, wouldn't be as bright as a 115V bulb but it would last longer.
I personally would prefer the bayonet because I think it's more safe than the Edison screw. The Edison screw socket must be connected correctly (L on the base contact and N on the thread), if it's not done this way you could get an electric shock during the change of the light bulb if the light switch is still on. That's the reason why clueless people shouldn't mess with the installation of such lamps.
+mgermi The edison screw puts the live as far as possible from inquisitive fingers. The bit about needing to be connected correctly is a red herring, that goes for any device. You could have a transistor radio that was hooked up incorrectly for safety inside and you'd also be none the wiser. No Edison screw involved.
The bayonet mount has both contacts within easy reach and conveniently located near one another. There is no keying for the bayonet so you wind up with LED lights that have the live randomly hooked up dangerously. In other words, your warning about Edison screws is baked into the design of the bayonet with a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong each time you change the lamp.
"The edison screw puts the live as far as possible from inquisitive fingers."
But not when you are using E27. There you could put in a finger very easily, especially small kids when there's no light bulb inside. A GU-socket would be safer, there you could not reach contacts without a tool. But the bulbs are more expensive than the bulbs with Edison screwing. Every system got it's pros and cons.
"You could have a transistor radio that was hooked up incorrectly for safety inside and you'd also be none the wiser."
Transistor radios are always class II devices if they are main-powered, or class III with external power supply. This is your "red herring".
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appliance_classes
"so you wind up with LED lights that have the live randomly hooked up dangerously"
That's the reason why they should never get an approval in Europe if the line could get touchable when using the device correctly.
"is a red herring, that goes for any device"
Not for any, in Germany when you are installing a wall socket there's only one rule: green/yellow in the middle connector. The Schuko-sockets are non-polarised. But there's an unwritten law here: install all sockets in a circuit the same way (L always on the same side). That's the reason why all portable appliances must have a double pole switch here. Regulations prohibit that only neutral is switched, and this could happen if you've got a non-polarised socket.
You wouldn't guess how many guys here make the mistake to connect the Edison screw wrong. I've seen many videos here on RUclips, most made by home handymen: "whatever you connect it, this is alternating current and it's functional"....bullsh*t...
And that was no warning, it was an advice. This advice to connect it properly couldn't be repeated often enough!
who uses 110V on a b22 mount?
brian whittle Anyone who doesn't want the lamp to vibrate loose :)
*****
the trouble with the 2 pin bayonet fitting is on high wattage bulbs the solder on the bottom can become indented making them impossible to remove without extreme measures
brian whittle Indeed, used to be a problem with 150w lamps especially, especially the short-neck versions. You'd frequently twist the bulb out of the bayonet base then have to use pliers to remove what was left. Filing down the solder pips before installation was an option in places like lecture theatres
brian whittle The example used was intended for 110V handheld inspection lamp or a string of festoon lights as used on construction sites.
110 v use more current in same wattage so it doesn't like losse contact which b22 likely does
Clam down Man! Gezzz
I was using 110v, 1 W led patio string light in India and it just went off after a min. Any inputs on how to get that working? I guess I fused it this time. But wait should the travel adapters not work as step down voltage?
ruclips.net/video/Rt2u6W9gNUA/видео.html
Some adaptors convert voltage but most are just a set of different sockets and plugs. 220V into 110V LEDs will very quickly destroy them - your only option now is to buy a set of 220V LEDs.
@@jwflame Thanks for the quick response. When I look for bulbs online on ebay it shows Voltage for those bulbs(base=e26) as AC 110V/220V, does it mean it should work for both voltage types? in that case I was using the exact same type. do not see anything specific to 220v.
Probably listings where you select the voltage - although it's possible to make them multi-voltage it would be very unusual, normally they are designed for one voltage only.
A 4 minute video on plugging a 110 volt lightbulb into a 240 volt supply and it went pop?... No shit Sherlock..
H=I*IRT
Can you talk any faster?
R B he can if you promise to do the opposite .. as in shutting the fuck up
come to know Jesus
I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will never walk in darkness, but will have the light of life.
@@schwertdornenheck458 Would that be 110V or 240V?
It's not made too take 240v