Darren is amazing person, who has helped me via remote assistance from the USA! I am UK based and I have contacted him after my fridge stopped cooling. Unfortunately cooling unit is not reparable and getting part to the UK is very expensive. I would recommend Darren to anyone who has any issues with RVs, he is full of knowledge and knows 100% what he is doing! 5 *
I am so glad you pointed out about the flue baffle often times not being included with the new unit. I just had a cooling unit replaced in my fridge, and to get it covered under warranty I had to get the "professionals" to do it. The warranty company wouldn't cover me if I did the work myself. I got home from work and went and inspected the fridge which wasn't cooling properly on LP after the replacement, and found that they overlooked a whole bunch of stuff. The burner assembly was loose and flopping around in the back, they didn't screw the control board back to the fridge but rather left it flopping around in the back, they didn't screw the heat shield back on, didn't clean up the yellow residue that was left when the cooling unit went on me (I mean what happens in the future if there's a cooling issue and a technician has to diagnose it? They're going to see the yellow stuff and just think that it needs a cooling unit when in fact it could be something as simple as a fan not working), just overlooked a bunch of stuff. But when I called them to tell them that the fridge still wasn't working right on LP, they dismissed me like I was doing something wrong. Well this morning, I got thinking about that flue baffle and what it might be for and I thought to myself, you know what? I bet you the problem is that the flame heat is shooting straight out the flu and not boiling the ammonia. So I climbed up the ladder and stuck my phone camera in there and took a few pictures and sure as shit, they forgot to put the flue baffle in! All that arguing on the phone and it was something they overlooked, just like I tried to tell them. So now I'm just waiting to hear back from them again, and hopefully they'll bring my flue baffle out from the old unit and I can stick it in there. If your new cooling unit is working great on electric but not worth a shit on LP even though there's a flame, go up top and make sure there's a wire sticking out of that hole. If not, there's your problem.
Thanks for sharing your experience, very frustrating for you I’m sure ,reading your comment I’m sure you could have done the job yourself & done it the right way the first time 👍👍🇨🇦✌️
Thanks Darren, the wife and I just used this video as our step by step guide to fix our 2007 Norcold fridge. The cooling unit went bad and we ordered one and replaced it, with your help! Saved us a cool grand over buying a brand new fridge!
Hi Guys, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
Just bought a used RV yesterday, with a blown 5A fuse on the circuit panel. I'm praying replacing the fuse with get the frig working on AC, but if it doesn't this tutorial is exactly what I will need to accomplish the cooling unit replacement. Great job with this tutorial!
Great video, very informative! I'm glad to see the care and craftsmanship you are taking, together with the explanation of _why_. 17:20: I suspect it's best to finish installing the new unit -- ensuring you have found out about all the bits that didn't come with the new unit -- before shipping the old one back. I'd probably replace the thermostat and maybe the fans, on the "inexpensive, and hard to get to" principle.
D-, the long metal thingy with the thingy on the end is a flame baffle. Just watched this video, getting ready to replace my cooling unit on my N811 unit. Smaller but same principles. Thanks for your help. Keep on truckin'
Did taking out the 8 bolts in the back of the freezer make a difference? I don’t see holes on the backside of the fridge. I am trying to figure out where mine is still connected to my RV. i took out the 4 bit bolts on the backside, but it won’t budge.
Can you describe the details behind why the “thermostat” at 8:10 would contribute to a freezer working and a fridge not working? Is the “thermostat “ you pointed to called the “fan switch” in other references? Thank you for your time.
Thank you for such a thorough how to repair the cooling system on my fridge. I have a 2006 Sunnybrook. Same thing yellowing on the back of the fridge that is no longer working.
Wonderful information! I didn't even know this was possible. My fridge went out and I was not wanting to spend almost 2k on a new one for a 2004 trailer, even though it's in great shape. I will be replacing it thanks to you! Happy New Year!
Hello Thanks so much for your time and being so generous with your knowledge. Incidentally, I am curious to as how long ( once insulation foam has been applied ) do you leave the refrigerator facing down? Thank you, Jerry
I love your instructional videos. If I can do it myself, I will. Just the way my Dad taught me. I have the Norcold Fridge identical to this one. My flame is popping as if the air mixture is incorrect. I don't see how to adjust it. It continues to work but it bothers me. Maybe you can provide a direction for me. Good job.
I’m really appreciate you man for all the informations put in our hand. Question: I have the same refrigerator when start generator I press on then press button mode to select AC then I press button temperature to select between 4-7 after a couple seconds it’s got just peep and won’t start, so in your experience what do you think? Thank you .
LOL, when you've done as many as I have you develop some shortcuts and you don't even need to look at the manuals anymore. But the first couple I did I was very careful, very methodical on how I did it.
Thanks Darren, great detail on your episodes......I am currently working an issue with a no a/c code on my Norcold 2118, found out that if I plug an extension cord from the house to the fridge it works fine. what would your next step be on figuring out why I'm not getting enough current to the rv fridge plug tucked in the corner of the slide?
I have installed several. They install pretty straightforward. The wires for the heating element become the wires for your compressor. I don't have any opinion on longevity or anything because I'm just the installer.
What part number is the sealant used from the back of the cooling unit to the Aluminum cool transfer to fridge also the black filler sealant used, looking at replacement of my 634747 Norcold that failed, is the fridge actually that heavy if doors removed
Yep....need to pull my Norcold to test fans. Heating elements work, gas kicks in put its not getting cold and I don't hear the fans. Any suggestions on quality new fans if they are bad? Thanks.
Great and informative as always. When driving down the road should the refrigerator be on LP or electric? NRVTA tech tip Tuesday had said not to have your water heater on while driving down the road because the flame blows out everywhere and burns up the thermal rollout fuse or the wiring. I didn't know if this also holds true for the refrigerator.
After the refrigerator has run for a few hours, feel the temperature difference on the back between the boiler and the absorber coils, these are the ones that go round and round. These two points should be similar in temperature. If they are not, then you have a blockage. That is not something that is field repairable. Here is a video I did, the beginning few minutes I do talk about blockages. ruclips.net/video/--DCnSw1jP4/видео.html
Great vid. I replaced mine 4 years ago and recently defrosted now the freezer is normal put the refidgerator section will not get cold enough. I have it on coldest setting and barely gets to 40 degrrees. Please tell how the fans affect the refridgerator section ?
Darren this is a great video. Hey I removed the 4 screws in the freezer - left ice maker side with my screw gun and after they were all 4 laying there I realized 2 are long and 2 are short and I didn’t notice until I had them removed. Can you help me with proper orientation for reinstalling?
My Dometic was working over the weekend on propane, it worked on AC as well, some how I have lost cooling on both. I have a flame and can hear the fans running, and have voltage to the heating unit on ac. Its currently unplugged for a day to see if it may be an ice dam. Could the thermister cause it not to cool on either? Thanks for any advice. Its a 2017 Forest River Sunseeker 3010. Regards Randy
Excellent job, as usual , Darren. As I look at the flame on my coach (Norcold 1200rim) I noticed that the flame is always fluttering and loud. I used air to clean the burner, but it still fluttering. Do you think I need a new gas valve? Thank you for the video , Ed
Another interesting video. I wonder if you've considered one of the compressor conversion kits for RV fridges from JC refridgeration (available in AC or DC). They sure *sound* like a great idea. Thx1
I’ve decided to replace my bad rv fridge with a residential fridge (can’t afford an $1800 dometic) so I need to pull the old one out. Is there any power source to disconnect other than the plug in the back of the fridge? I know to disconnect and plug the gas line but what else needs to be disconnected from outside before I can just start pulling?
Darren, very well-done video. You speak my language! Two questions, are these instructions valid for either the Norcold 1200 and/or 1210 series units? I assume they are; and also, about how many hours should this job require to replace the cooling unit on a 4-door Norcold unit - given average to above average skill and two big guys? Thanks!
Yes - same for both. Book rate or this size frig pays 1 hour to R&R the frig from its opening and lay it down on the floor (and then put it back in when done) and 3.7 to R&R the cooling unit. So total book rate is 4.7 hours. Since I have done so many I can get in/out in just over 3 hours but still charge the full book rate for the job. To schedule a service consult with Darren please sign up for the "1:1 Repair Consult" on our Patreon site. www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Another point worth mentioning, is that norcold uses a vacuum sealed outer insulated panels that surround the sidewalls. These panels have been known to develop a cancer and compromise the vacuum seal. Therefore rendering the frig not repairable.
Hi Gary, Thanks for the comment, I have not personally come across that but will now be on the look out for it. I have toured the Dometic refrigerator factory with the plant manager and it was very thorough and detailed but have not made it over to the Norcold factory yet.
I have a Norcold 1200 LR when I press my power button the second and third current temp lights come on and shut back off when you release the power button. Nothing else happens
Is it possible to recharge the system if you can locate the spot that leaked, plug it with an appropriate sealant, and then fill the system with the refridgerant (717) (12.4 oz.) to 850 LBF per square inch? Like you would with an air conditioning system? Domestic MOD. NO. RM 3862 PROD NO. 921 14 60 - 06 Thank you for the quality educational videos!
While the absorption refrigerator works on the same principle (second law of Thermodynamics) as an air conditioner does. The way it achieves that is very different. You have X amount of water, X amount of ammonia, X amount of hydrogen, and X amount of sodium chromate. Then can pressurize it to a very specific PSI and test it then sure it can be done. I will send a link to a company that trains people on how to recondition refrigerator cooling units. I looked into it myself but it's just easier at my end to swap them out and send them back for replacement at their facility. I hope this helps.
I think what you're calling the thermostat is the thermistor. You can find them on Amazon. Just enter your refrigerator model number with 'thermistor' and you should get some good hits.
The cooling unit we pulled out was the original. We buy our cooling units from www.rvcool.com/ if it is not under the mfg. warranty. RV Cool offers a warranty on their cooling units but need the old cooling unit back to activate the warranty. This way the old cooling unit stays out of the landfill and they get a bad cooling unit that they can repair and recondition. Everybody wins!
@@Dutcheagle_ks I am not sure I am understanding your question(s). As for me I verify the specification of the required cooling unit for a specific RV refrigerator and place the order with my cooling unit vendor. They ship out a cooling unit that they have reconditioned and warranty their work. I return the faulted/failed cooling back to them (at their expense) to activate the warranty. They take the cooling unit I returned and run it through their reconditioning process and send it out again with their warranty. My RV Works has nothing to do with the reconditioning. What parts were 'reconditioned' is outside of my scope. I am responsible for diagnosing the issue, removing the failed cooling unit, installing the new cooling unit and returning the failed one back to my vendor. I hope I understood your question and answered it to your satisfaction.. Cheers, Darren
I am not sure I understand your question on the DC cooling unit. There is a DC heating element for the cooling unit but it is only for when you are driving from A to B and is typically found on a "3-Way" refrigerator. The DC heating element would not be the primary heat source when you are camping. The Cooling unit is not AC, DC or anything, it is just a pressurized vessel. The decision to replace the cooling unit falls with the customer. We provide some options and let the customer decide what way they want to take to make the repair. This customer choose to replace the cooling unit and keep the insulated box and we were happy to provide the service to him. He is now a Happy Camper! Cheers, Darren Koepp
@@MyRVWorks Hi, There is a replacement DC compressor based cooling unit that directly replaces the pack that you just replaced. I saw it on the Mortons on the move. You can get the compressor as 12v or 24v but there is no propane option so your power supply has to be up to snuff to operate it. ruclips.net/video/Yte1V3CkDrw/видео.html
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Darren is amazing person, who has helped me via remote assistance from the USA! I am UK based and I have contacted him after my fridge stopped cooling. Unfortunately cooling unit is not reparable and getting part to the UK is very expensive. I would recommend Darren to anyone who has any issues with RVs, he is full of knowledge and knows 100% what he is doing! 5 *
I am so glad you pointed out about the flue baffle often times not being included with the new unit. I just had a cooling unit replaced in my fridge, and to get it covered under warranty I had to get the "professionals" to do it. The warranty company wouldn't cover me if I did the work myself.
I got home from work and went and inspected the fridge which wasn't cooling properly on LP after the replacement, and found that they overlooked a whole bunch of stuff. The burner assembly was loose and flopping around in the back, they didn't screw the control board back to the fridge but rather left it flopping around in the back, they didn't screw the heat shield back on, didn't clean up the yellow residue that was left when the cooling unit went on me (I mean what happens in the future if there's a cooling issue and a technician has to diagnose it? They're going to see the yellow stuff and just think that it needs a cooling unit when in fact it could be something as simple as a fan not working), just overlooked a bunch of stuff. But when I called them to tell them that the fridge still wasn't working right on LP, they dismissed me like I was doing something wrong. Well this morning, I got thinking about that flue baffle and what it might be for and I thought to myself, you know what? I bet you the problem is that the flame heat is shooting straight out the flu and not boiling the ammonia. So I climbed up the ladder and stuck my phone camera in there and took a few pictures and sure as shit, they forgot to put the flue baffle in! All that arguing on the phone and it was something they overlooked, just like I tried to tell them.
So now I'm just waiting to hear back from them again, and hopefully they'll bring my flue baffle out from the old unit and I can stick it in there. If your new cooling unit is working great on electric but not worth a shit on LP even though there's a flame, go up top and make sure there's a wire sticking out of that hole. If not, there's your problem.
Thanks for sharing your experience, very frustrating for you I’m sure ,reading your comment I’m sure you could have done the job yourself & done it the right way the first time 👍👍🇨🇦✌️
Great job with sharing the details associated with the replacement of the cooling unit. Thanks!
Thanks!
Im an hvac installer and your videos is on point brother great content thanks
Thanks Darren, the wife and I just used this video as our step by step guide to fix our 2007 Norcold fridge. The cooling unit went bad and we ordered one and replaced it, with your help! Saved us a cool grand over buying a brand new fridge!
Hi Guys,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
Darren, outstanding per the usual. Extremely helpful. Will be sharing this on our RV Techs FB group. Thanks for taking the time!
Thanks for spreading the love brother. I've got some pretty fun ones coming out in the next couple weeks be on the lookout.
Love your videos! I am in the midst of replacing a cooling unit on a Dometic fridge. Very informative!
Thanks again for your very detailed explanation of not just what, by why and how, in your videos.
Just bought a used RV yesterday, with a blown 5A fuse on the circuit panel. I'm praying replacing the fuse with get the frig working on AC, but if it doesn't this tutorial is exactly what I will need to accomplish the cooling unit replacement. Great job with this tutorial!
Thanks for watching. Hopefully my instruction will help you.
Incredible instructor . Thanks so much. I cant believe these great videos . I will give back .
Great video, very informative! I'm glad to see the care and craftsmanship you are taking, together with the explanation of _why_.
17:20: I suspect it's best to finish installing the new unit -- ensuring you have found out about all the bits that didn't come with the new unit -- before shipping the old one back.
I'd probably replace the thermostat and maybe the fans, on the "inexpensive, and hard to get to" principle.
you are sharing some very informative knowledge, its well appreciated. Hope your channel grows a ton!
Thanks guys! I try to get out good information as I come across 'teachable moments'.
Cheers,
Darren Koepp
D-, the long metal thingy with the thingy on the end is a flame baffle. Just watched this video, getting ready to replace my cooling unit on my N811 unit. Smaller but same principles. Thanks for your help. Keep on truckin'
Great video I have the exact same Fridge and will be replacing the cooler next weekend Thanks.
Did taking out the 8 bolts in the back of the freezer make a difference? I don’t see holes on the backside of the fridge. I am trying to figure out where mine is still connected to my RV. i took out the 4 bit bolts on the backside, but it won’t budge.
Thank you great video
Your videos are detailed and informative! Great job!
Can you describe the details behind why the “thermostat” at 8:10 would contribute to a freezer working and a fridge not working? Is the “thermostat “ you pointed to called the “fan switch” in other references? Thank you for your time.
Thanks for big help bro!!
Thank you for such a thorough how to repair the cooling system on my fridge. I have a 2006 Sunnybrook. Same thing yellowing on the back of the fridge that is no longer working.
Yes i know you did this awhile ago, but, THANKS for the lesson. What is your opinion on the new amish replacement cooler unit for norcold?
Wonderful information! I didn't even know this was possible. My fridge went out and I was not wanting to spend almost 2k on a new one for a 2004 trailer, even though it's in great shape. I will be replacing it thanks to you! Happy New Year!
how long will this DC fridge run on battery power for boondocking? thx great video
Hello
Thanks so much for your time and being so generous with your knowledge. Incidentally, I am curious to as how long ( once insulation foam has been applied ) do you leave the refrigerator facing down?
Thank you,
Jerry
I love your instructional videos. If I can do it myself, I will. Just the way my Dad taught me. I have the Norcold Fridge identical to this one. My flame is popping as if the air mixture is incorrect. I don't see how to adjust it. It continues to work but it bothers me. Maybe you can provide a direction for me. Good job.
Fantastic....thank you!
I’m really appreciate you man for all the informations put in our hand.
Question: I have the same refrigerator when start generator I press on then press button mode to select AC then I press button temperature to select between 4-7 after a couple seconds it’s got just peep and won’t start, so in your experience what do you think? Thank you .
Great info on fridge repair. I think I would have to take photos so to refer back to them for re assembly.
LOL, when you've done as many as I have you develop some shortcuts and you don't even need to look at the manuals anymore. But the first couple I did I was very careful, very methodical on how I did it.
Thanks Darren, great detail on your episodes......I am currently working an issue with a no a/c code on my Norcold 2118, found out that if I plug an extension cord from the house to the fridge it works fine. what would your next step be on figuring out why I'm not getting enough current to the rv fridge plug tucked in the corner of the slide?
Great video. Very informative.
Awesome job, very thorough and informative
Thanks Steve! :-)
What do you think of conversation to a 12 Vdc compressor system.
I have installed several. They install pretty straightforward. The wires for the heating element become the wires for your compressor. I don't have any opinion on longevity or anything because I'm just the installer.
What part number is the sealant used from the back of the cooling unit to the Aluminum cool transfer to fridge also the black filler sealant used, looking at replacement of my 634747 Norcold that failed, is the fridge actually that heavy if doors removed
Yep....need to pull my Norcold to test fans. Heating elements work, gas kicks in put its not getting cold and I don't hear the fans. Any suggestions on quality new fans if they are bad? Thanks.
Great and informative as always. When driving down the road should the refrigerator be on LP or electric? NRVTA tech tip Tuesday had said not to have your water heater on while driving down the road because the flame blows out everywhere and burns up the thermal rollout fuse or the wiring. I didn't know if this also holds true for the refrigerator.
Very educational ty
It says to not put any mastic on the evaporator plates in the Norcold instruction. Any reason why you put some?
GREAT VIDEO!!!!
Thanks for the video. Our flame is working but the fridge and freezer aren't cooling. What else can we check?
After the refrigerator has run for a few hours, feel the temperature difference on the back between the boiler and the absorber coils, these are the ones that go round and round. These two points should be similar in temperature. If they are not, then you have a blockage. That is not something that is field repairable. Here is a video I did, the beginning few minutes I do talk about blockages.
ruclips.net/video/--DCnSw1jP4/видео.html
Great vid. I replaced mine 4 years ago and recently defrosted now the freezer is normal put the refidgerator section will not get cold enough. I have it on coldest setting and barely gets to 40 degrrees.
Please tell how the fans affect the refridgerator section ?
Darren this is a great video. Hey I removed the 4 screws in the freezer - left ice maker side with my screw gun and after they were all 4 laying there I realized 2 are long and 2 are short and I didn’t notice until I had them removed. Can you help me with proper orientation for reinstalling?
Great info... did I miss the safety recall relay/ sensor on the subject unit?
Awesome info. Thanks
My Dometic was working over the weekend on propane, it worked on AC as well, some how I have lost cooling on both. I have a flame and can hear the fans running, and have voltage to the heating unit on ac. Its currently unplugged for a day to see if it may be an ice dam. Could the thermister cause it not to cool on either? Thanks for any advice. Its a 2017 Forest River Sunseeker 3010. Regards Randy
Excellent job, as usual , Darren. As I look at the flame on my coach (Norcold 1200rim) I noticed that the flame is always fluttering and loud. I used air to clean the burner, but it still fluttering. Do you think I need a new gas valve? Thank you for the video , Ed
could be the gas regulator
I just uploaded a video that might address your issue. Look for it in my refrigerator playlist. Thumbnail has the blue flame in it.
Another interesting video. I wonder if you've considered one of the compressor conversion kits for RV fridges from JC refridgeration (available in AC or DC). They sure *sound* like a great idea.
Thx1
We could certainly do that, what we do is focus on customers needs. If a customer wants that then we'll do it.
Darren, have you replaced these units with compressor components? Compressor fridges are supposed to be more efficient. Your thoughts?
I’ve decided to replace my bad rv fridge with a residential fridge (can’t afford an $1800 dometic) so I need to pull the old one out. Is there any power source to disconnect other than the plug in the back of the fridge? I know to disconnect and plug the gas line but what else needs to be disconnected from outside before I can just start pulling?
Darren, I have 2015 voltage toyhauler. I've never heard fan running rite from the get go. Would there be fans in my unit? Thx for any help.
can you help with mine? I just bought an older RV and the fridge hasn't turned on.
SWEET Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
Darren, very well-done video. You speak my language! Two questions, are these instructions valid for either the Norcold 1200 and/or 1210 series units? I assume they are; and also, about how many hours should this job require to replace the cooling unit on a 4-door Norcold unit - given average to above average skill and two big guys?
Thanks!
Yes - same for both. Book rate or this size frig pays 1 hour to R&R the frig from its opening and lay it down on the floor (and then put it back in when done) and 3.7 to R&R the cooling unit. So total book rate is 4.7 hours. Since I have done so many I can get in/out in just over 3 hours but still charge the full book rate for the job.
To schedule a service consult with Darren please sign up for the "1:1 Repair Consult" on our Patreon site. www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Brilliant 👍😷👏🏻
Another point worth mentioning, is that norcold uses a vacuum sealed outer insulated panels that surround the sidewalls. These panels have been known to develop a cancer and compromise the vacuum seal.
Therefore rendering the frig not repairable.
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the comment, I have not personally come across that but will now be on the look out for it. I have toured the Dometic refrigerator factory with the plant manager and it was very thorough and detailed but have not made it over to the Norcold factory yet.
I have a Norcold 1200 LR when I press my power button the second and third current temp lights come on and shut back off when you release the power button. Nothing else happens
Is it possible to recharge the system if you can locate the spot that leaked, plug it with an appropriate sealant, and then fill the system with the refridgerant (717) (12.4 oz.) to 850 LBF per square inch? Like you would with an air conditioning system?
Domestic MOD. NO. RM 3862
PROD NO. 921 14 60 - 06
Thank you for the quality educational videos!
While the absorption refrigerator works on the same principle (second law of Thermodynamics) as an air conditioner does. The way it achieves that is very different. You have X amount of water, X amount of ammonia, X amount of hydrogen, and X amount of sodium chromate. Then can pressurize it to a very specific PSI and test it then sure it can be done. I will send a link to a company that trains people on how to recondition refrigerator cooling units. I looked into it myself but it's just easier at my end to swap them out and send them back for replacement at their facility. I hope this helps.
rvrefrigeration.com/
@@MyRVWorks Yeah, it helps. Thanks for taking the time to respond. You're a great educator.
Can it be retro fit with a 12v compressor unit?
There are some aftermarket products out there but I'm not familiar with any of them.
Hi,
How long does it take to have that done?
minus all the explanation of course ;-)
5 hours plus 2 trip charges
Where do I get the thermostat?
I think what you're calling the thermostat is the thermistor. You can find them on Amazon. Just enter your refrigerator model number with 'thermistor' and you should get some good hits.
Was that a remanufactured cooling unit?. Cause u mentioned that u were sending the core back
The cooling unit we pulled out was the original. We buy our cooling units from www.rvcool.com/ if it is not under the mfg. warranty. RV Cool offers a warranty on their cooling units but need the old cooling unit back to activate the warranty. This way the old cooling unit stays out of the landfill and they get a bad cooling unit that they can repair and recondition. Everybody wins!
You know what parts of a unit are reconditioned?
@@Dutcheagle_ks I am not sure I am understanding your question(s). As for me I verify the specification of the required cooling unit for a specific RV refrigerator and place the order with my cooling unit vendor. They ship out a cooling unit that they have reconditioned and warranty their work. I return the faulted/failed cooling back to them (at their expense) to activate the warranty. They take the cooling unit I returned and run it through their reconditioning process and send it out again with their warranty. My RV Works has nothing to do with the reconditioning. What parts were 'reconditioned' is outside of my scope. I am responsible for diagnosing the issue, removing the failed cooling unit, installing the new cooling unit and returning the failed one back to my vendor.
I hope I understood your question and answered it to your satisfaction..
Cheers,
Darren
I wish I had the money to fly you to Texas to fix my fridge. It would probably cost me less than replacing the whole fridge.
Maybe that burner thingy could be called a burner diffuser?
Turbulator.
Why not replace that with a DC cooling unit beyond battery capability?
I am not sure I understand your question on the DC cooling unit. There is a DC heating element for the cooling unit but it is only for when you are driving from A to B and is typically found on a "3-Way" refrigerator. The DC heating element would not be the primary heat source when you are camping. The Cooling unit is not AC, DC or anything, it is just a pressurized vessel.
The decision to replace the cooling unit falls with the customer. We provide some options and let the customer decide what way they want to take to make the repair. This customer choose to replace the cooling unit and keep the insulated box and we were happy to provide the service to him.
He is now a Happy Camper!
Cheers,
Darren Koepp
@@MyRVWorks Hi,
There is a replacement DC compressor based cooling unit that directly replaces the pack that you just replaced. I saw it on the Mortons on the move. You can get the compressor as 12v or 24v but there is no propane option so your power supply has to be up to snuff to operate it. ruclips.net/video/Yte1V3CkDrw/видео.html
How to fix an RV fridge. Tear out old unit and install residential 😂 I hate these RV fridges.
The sidewalls will swell, and will be difficult to slide out of cabinet hole..f.y.i.
Hi Gary, Some of these units do put up quite a fight when they are slid out!
I’m sure you are very good at what you do but basically
I can’t listen to you repeat basically one more time!
No way replace it
He needs to condense commentary not keep repeating repeating repeating
Very helpful video. Thanks brother! 😀