(How not) to install a metal roof
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- #metalroofinstallation #metalroofs #metalroofingdonewrong
How not to install a metal roof.
Metal roofing. How not to install a metal roof.
Metal roofs are not made to be installed like this.
Metal roofing done wrong.
Metal roofing is not made to be installed on top of shingles. If you install a metal roof over shingles you will need to install 1x4 strapping.
WATCH AGAIN: • (How not) to install a...
Check out the video below.You won’t believe what we found underneath this metal roof.
Metal roof installation gone wrong.
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• (How not) to install a...
My crew and I tore off the metal and installed these shingles just like this on this video. • How Not To Install a M...
Drew’s Roofing And Home Repair 910-845-2207 
Развлечения
This is a worst metal roof then the one you’re looking at now
ruclips.net/video/xOrb2KWK3PQ/видео.html
I am a full time professional metal roofer. There are a number of problems with this roof.
(1) The Ridge-cap is missing seals. This is likely the #1 problem. If the roof was vented at the ridge, or a shingle-vent was removed and left open, the leak could have been caused by blowing water up under the ridge, and down the steel.
(2) The likely second likely leak is inadequate -underlayment. A steel roof requires adequate underlayment. This can be done by either stripping the shingles and installing new underlayment, or if the shingles are not too far gone (no leaks), steel can be installed over shingles. The reason for this is because condensation can form under the steel, drip down the roof, and cause a leak. Depending on the roof this amount of water can be minimal, but a roof needs to accommodate this water. If a roof is well ventilated the occasional "cup" of condensation is easily evaporated away.
(3) The loose and missing screws can be a leak point, but based on the description on the video being that it came during a strong blowing wind, it appears that #1 is the likely primary issue. Yes screws need to be snug "just right" however, I expect this was a secondary issue with this leak, but does show the level of quality by the installer.
(4) Mastic/seam tape-/overlap. Overlap seams seals are often thought as required by folks, however it depends on the steel profile. I install a similar looking profile of steel shown in this video, and the profile has what is called an "anti-siphon" shape under the overlap. This is intended to be installed with no mastic on the overlap if the roof has an adequate pitch, and with lower pitches (such as what is shown below the pitch change), this requires a seam tape/seal. If installed properly the main portion of the roof normally would not require seam tape. However There are two basic ways a roof can be secured: screws on the flat, and screws on the rib. Many folks prefer screws on the flat as jogs - in a screw line are not easily seen, where as screws on the rib when installed consistently, produce a perfect line looking up at the roof, and highlight the quality of the install: this is one of the reasons I prefer this install method: as we aim for quality work. I will comment on the "bent pieces" of overlapped steel. This appears to be a manufacturing defect that I've seen before. Sometimes the rollers at the factory produce a "wrinkle" at just that spot. It does not reflect on the skill/quality of the installer but on the manufacturer of the steel panels. They need to adjust the roller spacing at the overlap rib. This is a periodic problem with rolled steel panels that may require adjusting at a factory once or twice a year depending on the methods used to secure the rollers. There are particular situations where even on a steep roof seam tape is recommended. In particular in snow belts above a valley or where there is risk of drifting snow. Part of the reason for this is that accumulating snow can form an ice-dam and then get under the rib-overlap. On windswept roofs this is not typically an issue, and plays a factor in both roof materials and truss design, depending on regional weather design criteria. When snow guard / snow stop is used in an area where there is an ice dam-risk seam tape should also be used. Ice buildup on a residential steel roof, is typically an indication of poor insulation in the attic, and poor ventilation under the steel in the area where the area of ice is forming.
(5) The pitch change is not installed correctly. A piece of "pitch change" flashing (sometimes called "over-under" flashing) should be used. With this flashing it is installed Under the upper roof and over the lower roof. Two strips of seals are required between the flashing and the upper roof and below the flashing and above the lower roof. Depending on the seal material, caulking is recommended above the seal product, and also between the multiple pieces of flashing.
I think I've written enough for now...just a few comments on the issues noted with this roof.
Thanks for your observation. I agree 100% everything they did was wrong. I have a link below the video of what we did to repair it
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching.
I agree 100%. In my location this metal profile is called imperial rib. Rehabilitating this roof is an “easy fix” compared to other metal roof profiles such as snap lock standing seam or field hem. (Side note I don’t understand why people step into our world of metal roofing and screw it up) 7 years experience and at least 200 roofs.
So you almost got robbed?
If you think that’s bad look at this one
ruclips.net/video/xOrb2KWK3PQ/видео.html
Thank you guys for doing these type of videos. The average homeowner trusts their contractors, and thanks to yall, it shows alot of them can't be trusted. The previous homeowner or their insurance company probably paid a premium price for a shitty job!!
Check out my latest Metal Roof you won’t believe it
We have a metal roof that was installed about 100 years ago. Ugly as sin but that bugger is still working. No screws back then. All the nails were driven and then followed up with a glob of hot lead mashed over it. Pretty neat to see how it used to be done back then :)
Thanks for watching
Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
Glad you thru The Link in so I could see this. They almosted it. Hate it when people do that.
👍
This guy may not know what to do down to the exact step, but it’s his problem solving and willingness to admit when he’s wrong, that I look up to. I would have zero doubts that he could provide me an excellent service as a roofer.
Anyone notice the lack of “how to” videos on RUclips when it comes to roofing?
May or may not be due to the lack of skilled roofers who know how to problem solve, ask for help, trace leaks, and provide honest, cost worthy help.
I’d hire this guy any day. An older dude providing content like this on RUclips that I can learn from and use his help to help my own business as a young rookie roofer/framer. Props. At least he stands behind his work and isn’t afraid to show what most homeowners are left with.
Thanks so much. I know I said a few things wrong in the video. As I said up front. I’m not a metal guy but I knew by looking this metal job was poorly done
I followed one how to video of roofing on here- shouldn't have.
Can I get a like on this video Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
My question as well, do the manufacturers not provide "how to" instructions?
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair then you were clearly not qualified to comment at all on this job I guess for some people it's all about video clicks.
Loose screws and missing screws are the problem. You do NOT add mastic or cement at the laps per the manufacturer. There should be closures at the bottom and top but that isn't likely leading to any leaks.
That is the correct answer. No lap glue/mastic. Screws loose& missing. Screw/ nail Up-dings. No closures top or, bottom. Ohh and there zero 1x4 furing strips under it all. (What a shitty job). I've worked with some metal roofing in the past& this never would of passed inspection nor,my done rite attitude.
@@aaronlantz3020 you don't have to use furring strips or mastic for a metal roof to pass an inspection
Did you see what we ended up doing to this roof to repair the problem. Check out this video you won’t believe what’s underneath that metal roof ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Butal calking betweeen laps and closures at the ends.
Thx for the video!! I’m installing a metal roof on my 10x12 Gazebo. I’m not a roofer but I can assure you from watching the video I can do it correctly!!
Anybody can do it right if they try I’m sure you Cantu good luck with it my friend.
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching.
Thanks for the warning and the inspection. Getting this info helps to decide if a roof should be metal or shingle.
I say good quality shingles is best
Sheet metal is the only way to go. The water barrier is under the sheet metal, stripp the roof completely use a tarpaper or the new white barrier material use valley and ridge panels . lay the sheet metal down use a spray foam on the upper end to seal , then install the ridge caps. Never had any problem like seven years now.
Troy Brownrigg nor am I disagreeing but forsure shingles can get u 7 years ... metal is sopposed to last 30 plus years so ..
@@franciscocharco2291 I always hated the kitty litter effect that kept raining off the roof. The lif span of Sheetmetal is hard too beat. And the cost is not that bad, compared to every seven year cycles.
@@troyb.4101 seven years? Quality shingles last 30-35 years with proper venting and higher than 4/12 slope
They sure did have those screws spaced accurately. Look what a nice line they make on the diagonal when you first peer over the ridge. Hooo doggy!
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
I have been in the manufacturing side of the metal roofing industry since 2010. Depending on the pitch of the roof, lap sealant may not be necessary. Building code requires lap sealant for non-soldered seam metal roofing systems if the pitch is less than 3:12. Moreover, the minimum pitch for a metal roofing system with non-soldered seams is 1.5:12. Parts of this roof look like the panels were installed on an acceptable pitch such that lap sealant was not required, however, the building code is a minimum. Lap sealant is never recommended against. Another big problem with this roof installation is that the screws are not applied to a solid substrate, such as furring strips or decking. This means that if the screws are not long enough, they will not hold consistently. Furthermore, if the panels were installed directly over top of shingles without any kind of barrier, the warranty on the metal panels is voided due to the constant abrasion of the shingles against the underside of the panel. Additionally, without furring strips, there is no air gap, and all the heat conducts straight through the metal panel to the shingles, meaning that the energy savings you ordinarily get from a metal roof aren't there. The closures are not always necessary, especially if venting through the ridge, although depending on the climate zone, attic ventilation may not be advisable.
Another set of problems here has to do with the trim and flashing. There should be a piece called a pitch break or transition between the two different pitches on the roof. The trim used on the gables does not look like any proper gable trim I've ever seen, it looks instead like an eave trim installed upside down.
ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
This is dumb. If the pitch is lower butyl tape not required? So if rain drains slower and builds up more on the roof less sealant is better? I disagree. And as a roofer not a office flunkie. Closures are vital. Bugs and critters get in there more likely. Hurricane zones 2x4s are often used as purlins not 1x so more rodents then. Vented or not, you still don't want water getting under panels.
I agree 100% I’m not a metal roof God like I said. All I know is it doesn’t look right to me. Now I know you don’t need lap sealant. Are used to do commercial roofs and we used it. Did not know you did not have to use it on these I’m not a metal Roofer thanks for your comment
@@Spookytooth92 Actually, he said sealant is required if the pitch is 3:12 or less. So conversely, he's saying if the pitch is greater than 3:12, then no sealant necessary. I don't recall hearing what that roof's pitch is, but it looks greater than 3:12, so sealant not required....but still would recommend it
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
I've had a metal roof for years here in Indiana & not one problem. Mine was installed correctly.
This one was absolutely installed incorrectly and we found out a whole lot more about this roof when we started taking the metal off. Check out what we found. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Seems as though somebody who had done the roof in the first place may have had more loose screws than the roof. Good work fellas, nice to see the he thoroughly inspected and repaired product!
Thanks
I’ve never done a metal roof but I know you don’t do it like that! Puked it in there! No doubt the stacks leak too!
Also, as long as roof pitch is 4/12 or above, no sealant is required under laps as long as it is , like you said, properly installed. Overhangs should be at least 2 to 3 inches at minimum
The metal has a drainage channel on the underlap.side and dose not required seal in md
Loose screws the culprit
Agreed
Yep. Drain channel eliminates the need for mastic
Thank you for that buddy thank you thanks for watching
Lots of strong opinions....over a roof. I have a metal roof that I installed myself and It's awesome.
I’ve seen good ones and I’ve seen bad ones
Same thing happened to us on our garage, building and shed. 4 years old now leaking.
That sucks
I've done a few metal roofs in my time, but I only count what I've learned and not how good I am. Still, I try to learn from those who do know, and here's what I can contribute. First, I was taught to use sticky tape (that's what I've always called it) anytime I lap two pieces together. So, all the roofs I've done had sticky tape to seal at the laps. Second, I use rubber closures where possible or manufacture "Z" closures where I can and need to. For example, on a hip roof which was going to have high visibility, I used aluminum flashing to create custom fitted closure strips on the ridge cap. They were a booger to get right, but came out looking great. For the overhang, I have done both with and without closures, depending on two things. One, if I'm going to be putting on gutters that are specifically created to go with R-Panel (which is what I've always used), then I go with a 2" overhang, then the gutters effectively cover the edge so no closure strips needed. Two, if non-specific gutters are used or no gutters at all, then I use closure strips. Learning how to install gutters was a real learning adventure, and I think I have something about that on my channel from a recent roof I did at home on my back deck. Ok, another thing about screws. If the metal is going over shingles, I ordered the longest self-drilling, self-tapping screws I could find. I ordered a pack of 1000 from Zoro's for about half the price I'd have paid anyplace else. I think they were like 2 3/8" or something like that. In one case of going over shingles, I put down 2X4's ever 4' on center, then filled the gaps with sheets of 3/4" foil-faced foam. Then I put the screws into the 2X4's. Looking at the screw pattern on the metal roof you showed, I tend to overdo, but considering that the panels are 3 sections, each one 1' wide, I put 2 screws in each outside section and one in the middle, with a line of screws every four feet (unless my purlins are closer or farther apart than that). At the outside edge, I put three screws per each 1 foot section. I suppose that's overkill, but while we are only in about a 70-80 mph wind area, I'd really rather put extra screws than find my roof in the neighbor's yard. Finally, everything I've been taught is to use both the sticky tape, AND screws on the lap. Again, I tend to overdo, with a screw about every 18", but have been known to slip back to one ever four feet, depending on the length of the run. Oh, on gutters, I found a really great gutter installation video done by an instructor at a junior college. I modified what he did and it made it possible for me to single-handedly install a 30 foot section of the R-Panel type gutters. The seams were super solid. Great video, sorry for the length of my commentary. Blessings and keep up the great work.
Very good view I like your look on it
You'd be using what the local Amish roofers use; butyl rubber sealant tape. Works really well.
Good metal roof you install it and forget about it. Roof Shingles you have to replace them all the time together with plywood.
We do a ton of these metal kits over mobile homes . I’ve been doing these kits for about 12 years . Nothing here is correct . This man is right ya go with what the manufacturer requires . Each pitch on a roof requires different methods .
Yes sir thank you very much for your comment and please hit that thumbs up button. I love it when somebody knows what you’re talking about. And it sounds like you do.
Wow, good video, thanks for sharing this info.
You’re welcome I have a few more metal roof videos
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching.
Hi drew, Very good video. I wanted to add that lap cement is not a necessity for these master rib/panel-loc systems if installed correctly. The closures near the bottom are also not a necessity. While closures near the top are great If the installer were to use wider ridge cap the closures would not be needed. Not having the closures wilth a wider ridge will help the house vent more efficiently. Most importantly even though the manufacturer will recommend installing the screws in the flat section, I strongly advise installing in the rib with longer screws to remove them from the path of water flow. There defiantly needed to be transition metal on that roof as well.
I agree
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair You have a wonderful channel, I am just now seeing you've been doing a lot for 11 years. my respects.
Needs pitch break flashing where the panels run on top of the other one .... inch overhang would be fine if they used bottom closures , and I know it's no necessary to use lap sealent on anything over 4 12 , but I still do
Thank you thank you thank you I agree I was not sure about the lapse needing cement or not
I put a metal roof on a HUGE old building with major leaks to the old built up roof, we used 20 foot long pieces and everywhere it overlapped, we overlapped 2 feet... at all the seams we used butyl and double strips of butyl on the laps. Put all the screws in the ribs, yes the manufacturers say in the flat but if I get 1 rubber washer leaking out of 10,000 screws I'd rather it be on a ridge. I used furring strips on the entire roof, then put a screw on every furring strip, every two feet, on every ridge. So far so good, no leaks and the roof is 6500 square feet.
About the screws in the rib thing, apparently while American manufacturers say to put it in the flat, in many places overseas like Australia, all the manufacturers say to put it in the rib. I think the reason they say NOT to put it in the rib is because it's easier to over drive the screw, bending the metal and flattening out the rib. I think the furring strips, and putting the screws in just tight enough to compress the washer, in the rib, is the secret to it not leaking.
im runnin to the store to get mastic for my lamps!
Are used to do commercial metal roofing and we always used mastic on the laps. I never did a metal roof like this like I said in the beginning of the video. So I wasn’t so sure if mastic was needed on the labs or not. Apparently it’s not needed. I did not know that. Thanks for your comment
Who would thumbs down this video?? I had my roof done and encountered similar problems. They did to wrong. Period.
Thank you I have no idea with thumbs down my video but whoever it is does at least one on every video I put on
Can I get a like on this video Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
We do a lot of metal roofing, you can get leaks if the screws are improperly installed and if the boots are not installed correctly. I don't think you need to reinstall the whole roof, but there is a lot of repairs that need done. Cheapest bid always does the cheapest work! Good luck!
My update video showed us removing the metal and installing a shingle roof
Can I get a like on this video Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
Excellent video, now I know how to inspect a metal roof
If you’re interested in more videos like this his is what we ended up doing
you wont believe the condition of the roof they put the metal over watch this video. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
This happens alot when the customer wants a cheap roof to sell a house so it looks good but it's not just to sell LMFAO
I agree
TRE_9-HEINZ4409 metal roofs are cheap?? I thought they were more expensive than tiles.
My guess would be the ridge. missing screws isn't good but there is more going on than that,
A lot more going on than that actually
I run 1×4's on 24inches on centers and make sure i hit the rafters that way you know you're going into something solid. Don't use cement but at the transitions probably from leaks above and possibly condensation
When you screw over the shingles you will see all the imperfections. With 1×4's it turns out a better looking job in my opinion. Plus you don't know the condition of the plywood underneath and if not sheeted you'll hit cracks
I agree with that
Needs to be took a part and add 1x4 battens and with common sense and the experience you have put it back together
This is what we did. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Drew I also wanted to reccomend a suggestion for the closures we use a card that slides over the flats and bend it past 90° so the ridge cap closes tight to the panels
I like that idea
Any blowing rain or snow that might blow up there will be slowed enough that the cobra vent acts as a second sponge type barrier we live in the mountains of western md and see alot of snow and never have problems we do 2 to 3 roof a week in seasons depending on there size
Seamers work as well as the card does
The screws go in the rib (the high spot) not on the flat where the water runs. The water is coming in thru the screw holes. Closures at the ridge are necessary to keep out wind blown rain but not necessarily at the eve.
@@MrRJCarpenter Manufacturer instructions have screws going through flat area between ridges, just like was done here.
It is very sad that there are so many ( idiot ) Professional ( supposedly ) roofers out there ripping OFF home owners ...SAD INDEED........Drew seems to be one of the GOOD ONES.....Thanks Drew
🙏
This one here customer thousand dollars to repair. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
One of the most important things I have to say is that when you are considering buying a house, make very sure you pay a house inspector first before signing your life way. Where I live, it cost approximately $400 to have an inspector inspect the house and you may even want to go so far as having a roofer inspect the roof.
This place had an inspector and they did not find it because it was covered up to what they covered up ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/xOrb2KWK3PQ/видео.html
I didn't see you remove any screws, but I'm willing to bet they were'nt long enough to reach through the shingles to wood.
I agree
Great video! This type of metal roofs should only be installed on barns not actual homes. Standing seam double lock is what I always recommend to my clients instead of snap down or barn tin. Even if this roof was installed properly, you still have to deal with the washers on the screws eventually leaking.
I agree
They're fine as long as thier installed properly look at the specs i have some that have been on for over 8 years
Steel roofs on homes are not a problem if installed correctly, i live in a tropical region in North Australia and due to the environment 90% of the houses have steel roofs.
Thank you for your input I would love to see pictures from Australia 910-294-1761 thank you in advance
I want to make a video eventually of all the people that left comments. Maybe something in their town that is historic or beautiful. I’ll put them all together in a video one day
I can tell by looking at the transition, and knowing that you had a recent storm before this video was made, that water was ponding on the roof and backing up under the panels. A proper transition would create a moisture barrier and a gulley affect so the substantial leakage would not have occurred. Obviously also needs proper underlayment among other things - Leakage came from ponding at the transition.
I agree
Can I get a like on this video Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Metal i used now recomends not to screw into the ridges. Also lap metal so prevailing wind is pushing laps down instead of toward the west wind that blows it off.
Around here they only screw in the flats not on the ridges
Thank you
Anytime
The screws will always work loose on metal roofs, as they heat and cool the sheet will expand and contract pushing on the screws working them loose, one method of adding life would be to drill holes for the screws at a bigger diameter, only 1mm clearance so the sheet can move as temperature changes but so that the rubber washer and top hat still covers the hole.
I never heard of that but that’s not a bad idea 💡
This is the Metal Roof that you’re talking about look what They did underneath. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Looks like they just put the metal right on top of shingles. You see that alot on places that are going up for sale. Fast cheap way to put metal and get it sold. The screw holes will cause leaks for sure and loose screws will cause leaks. I've seen this kind of job many times, put metal right on top of the old shingles. When you were tapping on the overlap you can see bits of asphalt shingle coming out with the water.
ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
Wow! That's not nearly enough screws either. Mine has screws in the valleys and some on the ridges where the panels overlap. I've got a stupid skylight leaking which is how i came across your video. they put the flashing under the metal roofing all the way around the tubular skylight and just sealed it using some kind of rubber.
Wow. That is basically what they did with this one stupidity it’s everywhere
I'm from New Zealand and I would say that the building codes are quite different between NZ and USA, we would put the roofing screws on the top of ridging as water runs down the valleys of the metal.
If you look at the video that somebody sent me to watch in one of my messages it shows clearly to put them on the flats I was thinking the same thing as you were
The reason that screws are NOT on the ridges and are in The Valley is that on the ridges you can not get compression enough to resist the normal uplift and release during high winds. If you screw down with enough compression then you have changed the width of the metal and subsequent sheets get harder and harder to keep aligned. Screws through the rib/ridge sections do fail long before Valley screws. The length of screw that has not entered wood is allowed to act like a pry bar and over time will fulcrum itself loose or break off from the continual flexing going on from either heat/cold expansion contraction or during wind events. I have never purchased metal or had it delivered that it did not come with the instructions that tell you where to put screws and what style of screw for the substrate your putting them into. Screws into dimensional lumber are different from what would be correct for OSB or plywood.
Thank you Kevin
Tom Cockerill how we fix that thing ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Ivor this is how we fixed it ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
ive never seen mastic put under each seem if he tightens up screws it will be fine. the leak is the screw missing that s it i think is all that s leaking not a big deal to correct
Rottenwood was left under the metal
the water may also be coming from basic condensation and it's collecting on the lower end of the metal getting trapped between the two pieces
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching. Thank
Their first mistake was they put the screws in the valleys, big no no! From what you show of all the loose screws the screws are way too short to hit something solid, that's also why some have worked their way out completely. You're absolutely right about no closures too.
Yes I agree
The majority of panel manufactures require the screws to go on the flats what you are calling Vally's. 5V metal roof panels are the exception. If you are in an area where you can get high winds like hurricanes the manufacture will have tested the panels with the screws in the flats for wind lift so if you install the screws on the ribs you will void the warranty on the panels. Also it is imperative that you only use the best quality screws that have a shoulder to shield the EPDM washer when it is installed. You can still purchase cheap screws and those who do cheap roof jobs use the cheap screws that will fail.
Here is a good question, ive been roofing for 21 years, in Canada we put the screws on the ribs "high points" if you put screws in the high points 1 water dont run down it and hits the screw just gets the rain, 2 if you put the screws in the "high points" you dont need to cement your laps becase the screws keep it super tight together, any metal roof ive done never heard of any problem of them, we also use enclosures at top and bottom.
Some people put them on the ribs some people put them down low
We have had metal roofs in Finland since 1960s and first all was fixed from ridge but we found out that it isn't so rigid way to install sheet. Wind, snow, thermal movement was able to move metal sheets slightly and all screw holes started to deform and leaking. Since 1980s all metal roofs has been fixed from valleys and way less problems.
Example my garage roof is done 1996 which is 24 years old screwed from valleys i just checked few screw gasket and those were still very flexible.
And every sheet metal roofing manufacturers in our country demands screws in valley or warranty is void.
I like metal roof with hidden fasteners. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
If you put them in the ribs the screw will back out over the yrs. you’re suppose to shoot in the flat. That washer is made to seal. This roof needs lathing and or rescue screws. I’ve only gotten two call backs in 7 yrs. these screws are backing out on this roof also it needs transition like where he points at the hole and where that water is coming out. I can make this roof outlast the house
Wow that is insane thank you for the comments I’m sure they will help some of my viewers
This is why the Gods have gifted us Flex Seal!.
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Just lmao. Yeah, I hear you..lol
Great overview of a botched up metal roofing job. What a nightmare! Thanks for sharing, Drew! Summary: Missing Screws; Many Screws over-tightened or under-tightened; Mastic not applied to seems; Loose Nails or Screws in Sub-Roof were not removed before the new metal roof was installed; Missing block at the drip edge.
Yes I keep saying that about the mastic and everybody here says you do not need it. In Maine where I’m from they put mastic on the seams where the panels go together. And then we put screws in it I make it tight. In North Carolina where I live now they do not do that at all and apparently don’t recommend it. Did you see when we tore off the metal roof that the plywood had never been replaced? This is what we ended up doing. We put on a 30 year architectural shingle in place of the metal. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching.
I installed a metal roof similar to that. Stripped all the old roofing off first . Put down some new tar paper ridge caps and valley panels Screwed down the Sheet metal . No sealent required, used spray foam to seam the upper panel opening install a ridge cap! Seven years now no leaks what so ever.If water ever got under the sheet metal it would run out the bottom, the tar paper is the real barrier against rain. Basically the sheet metal is the shell the water proofing is under the sheet metal. We don't have 100 mph winds . Every year I inspect the entire roofing system. go around check for loose screws, rarely ever find any.
It took me four dump trailers to haul off the old shingles, they were 2" thick. like three roofs. preparation is the key. They took short cuts.
We do have 100 winds often here. You better watch your peas and Qs when installing metal or shingles here
Troy, you did the precautions that most dont do when putting up barn siding as a roof. You should be commended
Don't use roofing felt on a metal roof if you can afford something better
I agree I don’t use black car felt paper for anything anymore all I use is synthetic
Hey Drew I need a roof and some remodel work but I'm way down here in Tampa, we may have to fly you down. Heck, I'd even buy the plane ticket. I was just about to have a master rib roof put on but after seeing this vid I'm back to the shingle. I don't see how the screws can possibly stay tight in the long run
I agree. Screws will not stay tight. I suggest if you’re going to go with metal use standing seam metal. You might just have to check the price it can get expensive
You can't because he's not licensed bin Tampa lol
That’s true. Can’t work in Florida as a contractor. Only as a helper
@@mikeadams9899 Any nut can be licensed, the real question is about honesty, seems this channel isn't out to sell Lifetime metal roofs put together with exposed screws. Of course you have a good point.
ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
For that type of panel I use clear through the roof sealant that way it doesn’t manipulate the highs pnl main lap
Cool thanks
I concur! " Through the Roof " is worth it's weight in gold. It can get rather messy, but it can be applied to wet surfaces, as well as underwater! I've done this and it actually still works.
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair
So , did you fixed??
Yes we did we put new closures and new screws on the whole roof
You can put a new metal roof over shingles, you have to use a decent underlayment like Tyvek Protec 200. Benefit is a quieter roof in the rain. But yeah, there are some big problems with this install. A metal roof should only go over a shingle roof which is still keeping out the water, IMO.
Some people don’t seem to care
Signs of a fly by night roofer! We had alot of problems with them around the Portland, Or. area! I'd say the water came from the ridge cap down!
I can not believe some of the things I find
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair I know! I was roofing foreman for my brother's construction business! I was able to lay 2 square per hour by hand nail, no air guns! Many a time I'd come across roof leaks because a fly by nite would put 3 staples per shingle in an area with 100 mph gorge winds! I was always 8 nails per shingle!
I’ve never heard of eight mils per shingle here the requirement is six because of the 110 mile an hour wind zone where in. And we’re not allowed to use staples at all here because of the 110 mile an hour wind zone. And handling is all I did for years. I could also now on two squares an hour. It takes a good roofer and quick hands in order to do that on a regular basis per hour. Not to mention a nail sideways in a finger every once in a while. I know you’ve done that before LOL I’ve been doing shingles since I was 15 I’m 60 I quit doing shingles personally five years ago now I subcontract my work out. But the requirement here is six meals per single no matter where you’re at
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair I call it 8, but it's actually 4 through tar bead, so the one above it nails the top side of it also!
Now I gotcha well here it used to be for nails and I don’t know maybe 25 years ago they changed it to six because of the wind zone that we are in right now 110 mile an hour wind zone for that matter hurricane alley brother holy smoke
The laps are just backwards. The metal we use up here in Canada had a special locking edge and you dont need sealant on it. It looks like those laps are just backwards. And longer screws for the tin would help.
Good insight I agree
laps are not backwards.....quit while you are ahead
ruclips.net/video/xOrb2KWK3PQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/xOrb2KWK3PQ/видео.html
You should come to Knoxville, TN where I live now. Just moved up here from Florida. I bet I have replaced 7 new metal roofs that were no more than a couple of months old due to shotty, inexperienced so-called contractors. That kind of mess in Florida would land you in jail for sure
If you’re interested in more videos like this his is what we ended up doing
you wont believe the condition of the roof they put the metal over watch this video. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Use 2 1/2 " screws on the peak and not the flat or valley because the washer won't last and the white wood rafters will strip out unlike yellow pine .
We took care of the problem. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
When you install this type of metal roofing over shingles it’s very important to put 1x4 purlins spaced about 20 inches apart or closer depending on wind load. The purlins must be nailed into the roof trusses. I use a electro galvanized ring shank coil nail size 8. The perimeter of the house will need to have the first layer of shingles removed before nailing on the 1x4 purlins same goes for any hips or ridges no need to do pitch breaks. A vent needs to be cut in the ridge for ventilation. Most newer homes will have some vent already but if it doesn’t the ridge will need to be cut about 2in down from the peek on each side for the whole length of the ridge. This type of metal roofing doesn’t require a butyl tape at the laps unless it’s 4/12 roof pitch or below almost a flat roof. Depending on your budget I would go with a 26 gage material you can get 29gage but it’s pretty thin material and will show more imperfections in the roof and all the purlins. The screw on this type of metal roofing is the weakest link so it’s crucial to get the best fasteners available. I like and have had good luck with a 5/16 hex head 1”1/2 wood zac. I screw in the flat of the panel about a half inch off the rib. I overhang the bottom of the panels at the eave 1 1/2” inches to 2 inches. I have never used closure strips at the bottom or the ridge cap only on pitch brakes. Use a high quality sealant on flashing laps and lap 4 to 6 inches. Hope this helps you diy’ers.
Finally sounds like I have somebody on here that has done a few of these roofs properly let me show you what they did when they installed the metal roof you looked at. You won’t believe what we found when we took the metal off. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair That was a horrible job they did I’m glad you shared that video. Looks like you take pride in your work.
Thank you. I really enjoy my work
ruclips.net/video/xOrb2KWK3PQ/видео.html
What we always do is nail 1x4 strapping down and then screw the metal sheets to that and it does not look like these guys used any.
They definitely didn’t do it that way
Yes, the screws need some depth for a good grip
I agree with that
Local Amish do use the underlaid strapping lumber on the old roof as you say is needed.
With metal over comp, screws should be 2", pull a screw or more to know what was used. Comp roofing expands and contracts with the heat, cold and humidity. That can loosen screws over time. The overlap should be screwed also so there is no lift under any wind condition. Sealant at overlap is always the better choice but is only necessary for under 4/12 pitch, this changes when in snow load areas. The overlap should always run way from the average wind direction. All overlaps within the run should have sealant and be screwed down being sure that the screw is uphill or in the sealant so the hole in the under piece of metal doesn't wick water. End run and ridge cap under sealant are a must in areas that are within 50 mph and above wind events. This is even more important depending on how your roof is oriented to the average wing events.
Great explanation of everything I seen going wrong up there and the screws ended up being an inch and a quarter
Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
Thx but now I’m nervous about installing a steel roof on my Gazebo...
If done right it would be fine. I personally like shingles better
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching. Way worse then this
I wish you could come put my metal roof down but I can’t pay someone the money a roofer charges , I really don’t have the money to put it on but I have to my ceiling is leaking and there is a few places of mold starting so I have to try to buy the metal and then try to pay someone to put it down . Thank you for all this info on a metal roof . I guess I’ll try to put it on myself so if you can comment and tell me what to do I’d sure appreciate it ! Thank u sir !
Do you need to watch videos on how to install a metal roof on a mobile home that will help I don’t have any but that will help
The wood is rejecting the screws.. just like the nails under the metal... It happens sometimes.. I have a trailer with an oak deck doing the same thing, just sitting, and it's about 4 years old... you'll have to tighten them up.. An olboy here used sycamore for subfloor and it pushed the nails back through the tile laid on it...
It’s a crazy thing how nails come back out of wood like they do
ruclips.net/video/9bvr_819w44/видео.html
I've never put mastic on any lamp, ever. Does it make the light brighter?
I said that wrong sorry
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair, don't be. Only meant it as a joke.
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
nope, mastic on lights will most certainly dull down the light. Bahahaha
I been doing metal roof over 40 years I stopped using closures at the bottom they are worthless rot out in 5 years only they needed if there is gutters I use vented closures at top
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Hello Shednut - I just acquired a 100-year-old house that originally had wood shingles. About 20 years ago, someone removed all of the wood shingles and installed regular corrugated barn tin. The house still has the original 1x12x12 boards covering the the entire roof (originally the wood shingles - and later the corrugated tin - were nailed to the solid plank wood roof). No plywood available in 1921, so the 1x12x12 bards were used instead. The rafters and the 1x12x12 boards are in really good condition. I want to remove the corrugated tin and replace it with a new metal roof. There are no valleys in the roof, just a plain gable roof, The house is 32' wide x 36' long with a 7/12 pitch. With your experience, what type of metal roof do you recommend? Thanks
I agree. I’ve been roofing for 40 years as well, condensation needs to drain as well. I’ve never installed metal over an existing roof and always install ice/water Barrier directly to the deck over the entire roof. This roof is called classic rib where I am and intended to be used for pole barns not housed however I keep seeing more and more installations on residential roofs. BTW this guy said he doesn’t do much metal but I can tell he cares and most likely knows much more about it now. The only installations we do over existing roofing is TPO/PVC.
I never have done a metal roof. I could tell something was wrong
You don't need "mastic", the panels have an overlap and an underlap edge. So the underlap is the Chanel that takes the water down the panel and off the roof. So did you check to see if the panels are going in the right direction?
I agree, agree I did not know that at the time of the video
Looks like they had issues hitting the furring strips with all of the loose and missing screws. Im doing metal siding on my barndo right now and i have to hit 2x6 studs, i only have 1.5 inches to hit on my siding, i decked the roof for this very reason.
No they nailed the shingles right over the top of I mean excuse me they nailed a metal roof right over the top of the shingles
Everything must have a
1 positive lap,
2 proper sealant
3 proper airflow
4 closers
5 the right trades person
6 never do cash as there is no proof / warranty
These are some of the major issues I have in my region.
Take the roof off and start off fresh reusing the same material.
Decided to put shingles
?
Need to remove the old shingles. It is always best. Metal roofs can last 50 years but not with crumbling ,brittle asphalt underneath
I put a new shingle roof on the house
This is what we did to fix it ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Looks like screws were over tightened and stripped out. A proper metal roof is done with 1×4's screwed 2ft on center to the trusses and your metal screwed to the 1×4's every 2ft. That's how we do it in Florida. Definitely when you have metal on metal with no sealant, it will rust. For the closure dilemma, closures are not necessary on the bottom of panels as long as you have a decent overhang. The ridge, what I do, instead of closures, which will deteriorate over time, I bend the top of the panel up 1/2 in and leave a 1/4 in for the ridge vent can still breath. You will have no kind of wind blown rain get in there or critters
Jason I'm here in Florida and need a roof
I love the bend on eaves instead of closures
I’m a long ways away from you in North Carolina
I'm fixing to have a metal roof put on my house. This is good info on questions I will be asking the installer. Thanks!!
You make sure that when you get a metal roof put on your house they install closures on the bottom edge and they install closures at the ridge vent and they put mastic on every seam which is basically a putty. So what they do is lay a sheet install putty all the way up the line with the next she is going to overlap if you don’t the metal rust where the metal touches the metal. You make sure they are using closures on the bottom and the ridge and make them tear off your shingles do not go over the top that’s just a bad idea
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair You can go over top shingles but need to put strapping/purlins for the sheets to sit on.
@@Nicecalgarian Or a good quality underlayment, or both. Those shingles will rub the back of that metal and cause rust long-term if you don't, but you don't have to take the shingles off if you do this right.
@@thomasrichards6245 Thank you Thomas. This is good info. I am thinking of using an aluminum reflective underlayment with purlins/strapping. Also been looking at a standing seam with snap lock. Research continues.
Check with a local metal supplier for installation information. Read everything you can online to understand proper installation techniques, and watch YT videos on proper metal roof installation. Also, know that there are many different types of metal roofing. I always user R-Panels which is a more industrial type panel than a standing seam roof. There are also what are called "snap-lock" metal roofs. Each has its pluses and minuses and each gives a different look. The oldest type of them is the standing seam and is a much more labor intensive roof to install, which means a true standing seam roof will probably be among the most expensive.
can help in my country in serbia no one puts safs on the lower surface of the sheet metal everyone puts it on the ridges and everyone tells me that the sheet metal is quickly falling apart due to the flow of water ,, I wonder if according to the specification of sheet metal installation as in your video in the lower surface, when I mention it in my point of sale, they think I'm crazy
Around here they recommend that you put it on the flat
how much do you charge to put metal roof on a 24'x52' double wide
I don’t do metal roofs because t I’m guessing you wlll pay around 4500 to 500 but I’m not an expert maybe someone out there can help with that 1
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair Would depend on how it's done ? Remove the old roof? Hauling and dump cost? I paid over $600.00 in dump fees. alone. I did all the labor all new materials, and spent three weeks doing it myself. I must have like $13,000 into the roof alone. on this 3600 sq foot home.
Lap cement? We use screw where I come from
Nothing more than seam screws up north. Wether it's a steel building or a house.
Corcky Romano are you a mainiac?
Yes I am a maniac born and raised I didn’t move to the south until teenager
I’ve put up several metal roofs and never used any “mastic “ if they would have lapped the seam right. Wouldn’t have an issue
Except for the fact what they left under this roof what do you see this. They left a terrible mess under the metal. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Thank u for the video. Need a new roof thinking metal, some say ok over shingles others say not. I haven't made up my mind because I keep thinking of something new that can go wrong. Neighbor has metal over shingles and a super nice roof, but im affaid I'll just be putting a sardine can lid over who knows what. Nails, uneven surface or rotten wood. Ridge vents scare me. Ridge is located right over my breaker box and the chimney laps the ridge. Condensation too. Oh my. Crud. Shingles I know. Metal, a nice dream but the reality looks like it can be a nightmare. OC Duration shingles starting to look pretty good. Want my old fashioned 30 year 3 tab, but nobody stocks them. Crud.
Go with duration
Metal roofs are lighter than shingles so you decrease load on the roof with a metal roof, by installing over shingles you still have the full weight of the shingles plus the weight of the metal panels on the roof structure. Remove the shingles and do the install correctly and you will not have any problems. By removing the shingles you can retail the plywood as well and if the code has changed over the years bring it up to code. Then you put down a peel and stick water barrier and finally you install the metal panels. Metal is the way to go for a roof if you want it to last for 30 plus years. Galvalume panels have a life expectancy of up to 65 years. We have an exposed fastener PBR rib panel Galvalume roof on our home and are very satisfied with it. It looks good and at our age will be the last roof we have to put on our home. We live in Florida and we went through hurricane Ian.
As for shingles in Florida insurance companies can refuse to cover your roof once the shingles are 14 years old, you can have an inspection done that if they say the roof has 5 more years of life left in it you can get 1 more year of insurance coverage on the roof, after that either reroof or go without coverage. If you have shingles you will be reroofing and if a hurricane hits you might make it through the first one but when another one hits you will lose shingles. Also if the shingle loss is not 75% or more the roof gets patched so if you have 70% of the shingles missing you will be compensated to patch the missing shingles which makes roofs look like crap because you will never be able to match the shingle colors, If you lost 30% of the shingles you patch it and again it looks like crap.
Our mortgage is paid off so we might decide to self insure going forward because we have a metal roof and all the metal roofs around us in Cape Coral survived fine and Ian pounded us for several hours because it stalled off of Sanibel Island and sat there pounding up with winds non stop.
Wow, I did a better job when I did my shed lol. Only thing I didnt think of doing was the bottom seal edge. I did the drip edge, just not the bits to seal the bottom. Its just an 8x10 shed, but I'll see about getting that part done right
Check out this other one I ran into. ruclips.net/video/pmNNlnCPfLg/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/xOrb2KWK3PQ/видео.html
When the homeowners says they don't know or remember who roofed it you know it was themselves. 🤣🤣🤣
The roof was done for years ago The Man bought the house two years ago he did not do it himself
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair Yep, so the prior homeowner wanted to just put "lipstick on the pig" and dress it up as cheaply as possible for a sale. Can't blame the contractors totally, the previous homeowner deserves some of the blame too.
Nice video, do you know any online courses on metal roof installation?
Actually I don’t have any but there are some good ones on RUclips ruclips.net/video/VCa1lPl-rvM/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/yw8baDiI8Bk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/NN6Q_0v3jsE/видео.html
Here's another a bit more straightforward roof,if they were all this easy
If they ran the metal over shingles, most likely the screws are not long enough or tight. As far as closures are concerned, that’s not your problem. The overlapping seams are suppose to be screwed down too. But your main problem appears to be they ran it over shingles causing the screws to be loose and too short. Another thing I see is the roof pitch may be too shallow for a metal roof. I live in Alaska and have done lots of metal roofing.
Check out my rubber roofing that might be something that you can do in Alaska. There is one of my RUclips subscribers that lives in Anchorage Alaska and he called me on the phone and told me that he increased his business by 50% by adding my Rubber Roof technique to his low slope or no slope roofing. I agree not enough slope for metal roofing
ruclips.net/video/ACjsNGctXJo/видео.html
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching.
Could a homemade version of the old Ziebart rust proofing be used on the underside of a metal roof? I know it could stick to the underside of the roof for the short term, but would the high summer temperatures degrade the material? Its a proprietary form of cosmoline, a parrafin wax base with some zinc additive, maybe some lanolin too ? Parrafin is inexpensive in bulk but I believe most of this wax will melt at 160 F, at the very most. You can make cosmoline, which easily lasts 60 years at room temperature. I don't know whether cosmoline would endure the temperature under a roof. But if this were true then a metal roof might last 100 years. If the cosmoline just became soft at warmer temperatures it would harden again at nightfall and probably stick to the metal forever.
I’m not sure if that would work or not I think wax under a roof I’m sure it gets over 160
@@DrewsroofingandhomerepairIt might catch fire! Wax burns
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair The flash point of parrafin is 395F. Asphalt roofs can catch fire too. I think parafin is at pretty low risk of degrading. Parrafin, as asphalt is a natural inert substance which does not react with other materials. Its been under pressure and heat in deep oil fields for thousands of years without degrading. It will soften with heat but it won't degrade. Its more stable than grease.
Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
Could they have put the screws in right, then over time they loosen up with contraction & expansion?
Maybe
Yes if they where too short to catch a solid piece to screw to.
ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
If the screws where in right they would be on top of the ridges, screwing up there created constant pressure because it’s hollow underneath. Also the water won’t run down the ridge so even if one was loose it would still leak very little if at all.
@@syntaxlies82 screwing on the high of the panep would just void your manufactured warranty. Why dont people learn how to install this straight from the manufacture and not youtube. Im a professional metal building Erector and every different metal system has different requirements. 12 years doing metal roofing and a certified installer. Its just crappy workmanship. I see common errors all the time on youtube from people claiming they know how to put sheet metal. Just go by what the manufacturer requires and you will be good.
The guy bought the house 2 years ago. Roof was done 4 years ago. How did the home inspector miss it?
I talked to the home inspector that did the inspection on this roof and he feels like a real douche
Box of doughnuts!
I had my home inspected and the guy never went on top. He glanced at the roof and looked for leaks inside.
A lot of times you'll find home inspectors that come from the same batch of workers that they are inspecting. Get what ya pay for, sometimes and sometimes not. Even looking to youtube videos for help requires that ya know something or there is no way that ya will no good from the bad.
And I met the inspector that missed it he just did not look good enough apparently did not do his job but I met that man because the homeowner was pissed off that he missed it and told him that I did the repair so I got a phone call this is what we did to fix it. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
The over lap of the Metal panels roofing be against the wind direction
Check out my most recent video wow
That's the proper install for lap the screws should be tightened down and no caulk on seems
The screws prob will not tighten.they didnt fur it you nail your firing to the rafters doing so you have a valid substright to screw to other wise they will spin out in plywood and shingles
Thanks for the info. That’s why I said I don’t do metal roofing
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair no problem always willing to share knowledge
Oh Boy! You want to know everything that I see?
The panel overhang at the eave should be at least 2" from the face of the drip flashing.
From what can be seen, you are correct; the shingles and tar paper are still on the original plywood. Only the first row of shingles was removed before they started installing the metal.
They should have removed everything down to the wood, let it dry out and repair any damaged spots.
Then apply an ice and water shield from eave to peak before sheeting the roof. Plenty of products that come with adhesive already applied.
Inside panel closures at the eave are used mostly to prevent wind driven rain and small animals from getting inside the exposed rib.
Sealant at the side-laps is again to prevent wind driven rain from getting between the sheets and the substrate.
There appear to be no lap fasteners anywhere along the side-laps to prevent rib separation.
The fasteners probably are not long enough to completely penetrate the substrate (5/8 thick minimum) and insure that screw threads are engaged the full depth of the hole.
Some people prefer to strap the existing roof with 1x4 lumber to avoid attaching the metal panel to already damaged substrate. These are anchored to the existing roof trusses with countersunk screws.
The pipe boot through the soil stack is in the wrong location. Should have been moved before putting the panel over the existing location.
The pipe should not be cut into the panel rib. Also it looks like caulk was used to seal around the peak side.
The screws can go in either the rib or the valley of the panel depending on the type of rib. A rib with a panel bearing leg can be screwed into if the screw length is adequate to reach and extend through the substrate. Do not overdrive these screws.
That said, check to see if they are even wood screws, conical point with tapered threads and shank the same diameter as the pilot hole.
The outside panel closure at the peak is required. Venting the ridge requires another piece of flashing to form an end-dam and a closure material with holes for air to pass through.
The ridge roll, peak flashing needs to have sealant between the end-laps.
And it should have been screwed to every panel rib.
The pitch transition should have been done with a step flashing when using the rib type panel. Closures strips along both panels.
Most people hate the appearance. Alternately, a flat panel standing seam type sheet could have been installed as a continuous piece from eave to peak. Extra labor but it looks nice. Most people hate the added cost since the concealed panel clips are more expensive than a color matched screw with washer.
Exactly
Metal over shingles is not allowed in your area?
I agree with everything you said 100% I’m not a metal guy like I said at the beginning but I do know when I see wrong
This is the problem when people wanted to go Chip, a real roofer or a good contractor won't do this kind of mess, always ask for warranty and recommendation from people you know so you can get your work done right?
I agree 100%
There are companies starting up all over, telling lies, saying they've got a lifetime warranty, when there is no warranty on the product, because its barn siding. Home owners get duped and get barn siding instead actual warrantable roof panels
ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
The manufacturer will not warranty metal put directly on asphalt shingles , it needs to be stripped out with 1x4’s first, when it’s installed correctly you don’t need mastic on the laps also.
I learned that you don’t have to have mastic on the labs I didn’t know when I made the video. Are used to do commercial work and they do use mastic on the labs on commercial but not on residential
That is an improperly installed exposed fastener metal roof. The first mistake was not removing the shingles, yes I know the manufacturers say you can install over shingles but if you are going to pay for a metal roof remove the shingles and have a water barrier i.e. peel and stick put on first. There should be two screws at the bottom of each panel between the raised ribs. The rest of the screws should be installed 24 inch on center or 12 inch on center. Depending on the degree of slope of the roof, you do not have to have adhesive where the panels overlap, if you are on the lower end of slope i.e. 2:12 you should use adhesive where the panels over lap.
We have an exposed fastener roof but it was installed by a reputable roofing company that has crews that only do metal roofs so they know what they are doing. The shingles were removed and peel and stick water barrier was applied then the metal panels, the screws were properly installed as well, we have not had any issues with our roof. Ours used ZAC screws with EPDM washers that are covered by the shoulder of the screw to shield the EPDM washers from the sun.
Very awesome comments thank you very much. I think a lot of my subscribers needed to see this.
no sealant required at overlaps. Overlaps should be away from predominant winds/rains. No battens is why the screws are not tight....go read up on how to do a metal roof. Preferably the manufacturers site on how to....do it right!
Thank you I did not know Sillint was gone required on the laps until I made this video. I did make excuse me I did do commercial metal roofing and we used mastic on all laps
Not that they would always know how to do it . Ive seen some manufacturers youtube vids about how to do it . Especialy the chimney sealing is pretty much always horrible . I couldnt even watch till the end . Just pay more , dont screw visible and learn the apropiate folding techniques .
It's funny all kinds of barns all over n.c and sc...same metal been there for a hundred years....no leaks...and some of you say don't put it on a house...i know of two barns that are just about to fall in...but they don't leak...
True if it’s done right they won’t leak.
They should last years
The screw grommets won’t last longer than 20 years. Standing seam is the way to go, if you’re going with metal.
You are completely right I just made a video on how not to install metal roofing the other day. One of my newest ones actually you won’t believe what they did on that one we should be able to find it in my playlist. Standing seam is the only way to go hundred percent. I live at the beach Lotta salt in the air.
Drew's Roofing & Home Repair - I’ll check it out. I love learning what NOT to do.... It never ceases to amaze me, the jobs I run into on a monthly basis. Thanks for sharing.
Think the biggest problem is what you can’t see yet. Most likely the roof was gone over with no 1x4 or even synthetic underlay let alone screwed down tight enough. Just resting on a rough surface scratching itself as it contracts and expands with hot and cold
I agree 100% and we have a Lotta hot and cold here
Is it easy to repair leaking vent fans in the bathroom if a mobile home
Yes. Send me a picture of it I’ll tell you how to fix it or go up there with call seal and brushing on all around the vent pipe
Okay I will get my son to take some pictures
Lap cement?
$10 a dance
If you’re interested in more videos like thishis is what we ended up doing
you wont believe the condition of the roof they put the metal over watch this video. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Screws should have been on the ridges, not down in the valleys. There's no need for sealer if overlaps are correct, if screws are tight, and they're spaced effectively.
Do you think that something watch this video ruclips.net/video/DBiViU74KVo/видео.html
Wrong, screws on flats, but the rubber washer needs to be slightly compressed, and butyl tape on seam
ruclips.net/p/PL8xp84iSvTA7ZAivBomPcomyffqP-rJUL
203,164 total views, Aug. 2, 2020.
Excellent evaluation by a S.C. Professional!
A total replacement will solve this problem.
A temp. half price repair option would require backing the screws out as needed, clear silicone the seams an gaps along the drip edge, and replacing the screws as needed.
This is how we fixed it all ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Wait to you see the next one we’re working on. It is even worse than this come in in approximately three weeks be watching.
Drew.... I am doing a 12' wide mobile home. It has a hip.... Using 14' panels.. Have you transitioned a hip roof and how.. Thanks in advance..
I have lots of experience in metal roofing. I've transitioned hips. Feel free to ask me anything.
Ask Karachi 89. I don’t have the answer sorry
If you are looking for the most efficient way to cut exposed fastener panels, check out Swenson Shear's Heavy Duty and Hip and Valley Roofing Shear. This tool eliminates burred edges and flying metal and provides a nice clean cut with a single stroke; ruclips.net/video/U6gXY25F5JU/видео.html
Never heard to put mastic on overlaps, really ?
Like I said in the video I’m not a roofer or a metal roof or so on commercial buildings you do but apparently you do not on residential that was my mistake but I was just making a comment before I knew that’s why I was saying help me figure this out I’m not sure what’s going on. If you look down below in the description you’ll see a video link to the video where we had to tear that metal roof off. You won’t believe what was found underneath it oh my God
Some brands like BMRD tuff rib recommend taping overlaps for 2:12 and flatter pitch roofs....which probably should rethink a metal roof. Makes sense with a low slope garage with only a few panel overlaps. This roof here looks like they didnt follow the fastener schedule so the overlaps are not secure...among other mistakes. The lack of pitch transition flashing is horrible.
True
The first row of screws were to far up the roof should closer to the edge. That's what messes it up for good roofers that take pride in their work and do it right because low ball Larry comes along and does this. Unfortunately for the home owners but the old saying YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR but that's not the case all the time
You got that right it’s amazing how many places I run into that look like this I just can’t believe the amount of people that just are not proud of their job.
I talked to a gentleman in Myrtle Beach and told me he didn't think there was a decent roofer there
Probably not
Rr
Wonderful job with the drip edge ! catch that ! right after he says this roof is loose ! WTF is that?
I made a video of replacing the roof after this metal
probably should have butyl tape on the joints, the screws tend to loosen on their own. Even when done correctly the metal roof should be inspected once a year or so. Use a quality synthetic underlayment.
Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/nSxCJfuGxkI/видео.html
Unless it’s an open pole building, you don’t need inside closure. Only on the ridge
Thanks for that
The roof needs to come off and be redone completely 100% sounds like you have some common sense
This is what we ended up doing
you wont believe the condition of the roof they put the metal over watch this video. ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html
Yes
There's such a thing called a pitch transition stripthat's what's missing and that's why there's wind-driven water getting caught up underneath the two pieces of steel at the transition point I would have to refer you to whatever manufactureryou choose to go with they will have specific types of transition strips that you will need to order based on your pitch transition and length needed
We just removed it and put shingles on it ruclips.net/video/qsoWPbTzgv8/видео.html