This guy amazing. Ever since he showed me how to adjust my brake & clutch levers I been subscribed. Its amazing how much more responsive you get without wasting throw to grab the levers.
Tyres today are arguably the biggest improvements available for your chosen bike in 30 years! The 90’s the bikes where improving at a rate much higher than the tyre manufactures. Hence why then (arguably more again than today) didn’t have as great a choice and would stick with a know set, whilst still experimenting with others. Not one (same size shoe for an individual) works the same. Hence why some racers would prefer a particular brand and model, where another rider (like fo like in lap times) may not be as quick or feel as confident as one another... Today, we a blessed with so many choices and it really comes down to fining the right ones for yourself. Just taking someone else’s opinion, might not actually work for you! A awesome topic! Thank you Dave and Dave! 👍😎🇦🇺
Absolutely, my 96 fzr600 feels pretty amazing on some newish kenda sport touring tires (bias ply), as fun as my 06 gsxr600 on michelin pp3's. A little softer in suspension, but grip wise perfect for the bike and geometry.
@@Nolan001001 100%. I would love to see the difference modern tyres would make in terms of lap times when fitted to the race bikes from the 90’s. I live in Melbourne (one to two and a half hours to Phillip Island, depending on location). They would be seconds a lap quicker which would actually puts them at about the same pace as the WSB and MotoGP bikes of today! With zero rider aids! Just talent!
@@marcusgeorge1825 Slick tires haven't evolved much. Race bikes from the 90's wouldn't be able to compete because of power and chassis/suspension differences.
@@FlameHazeist I was originally talking about tyres that are road legal. You don’t think they have made massive improvements? The slick tyre options have also improved! Maybe not to the same degree. However, take a look at the lap times (on any track where a World Series” event took place. If the slick tyres (as you say) have only improved slightly then the times would still be closer! Maybe not enough to be faster now than the current bikes, however the actual gap will be closer than you think. Remember, the 90’s had factory teams (vs today comparatively speaking) throw heaps of money at their machines! A 10% better slick tyre set (in grip, feel and durability would take seconds of laps times! Especially the faster ones.
@@FlameHazeist Q. Has the chassis and suspension changed that much? Power yes (the engines are bigger, plus they have electronic rider aids...). Another question, regarding the bit that is touching the ground. The tyre contact patch (not so different). Yes they are wider at the back now, which means the bikes need a greater lean angle for a set corner speed, however you still need to get that power to the ground, which is still about the same size (the size of a match box). Horse power still needs to be applied to that area. Yes? If you were to say just take Michael Doohan’s NSR500 as an example, it was producing 186 hP (at the rear wheel) and also lighter than the 4 strokes of today and no where near as easy to ride... Contact patch!
I have a 2009 ninja 650… I have done nothing but change tires since I bought it. I’m 180 pounds do mostly winding mountain roads and some highway. Always wears out in middle and left side . Chain is aligned running 35 rear 34 front
Number of left vs right turns plus general camber of the road via engineering/build always depletes the left side if you drive/ride on the left side of the road. If you love left turns and use more of the tire you will be accelerating harder so that adds to the left side wearing out faster.
i have a new XC…..the ride is always bumpy. new paved roads are bumpy. old paved roads are bumpy. the ride is always bumpy. my bike is a 2022, which i bought this week in june of 2023. considering it’s a left over i’m thinking it has been sitting in the showroom for a long time and one or both tires have a flat spot. as that flat spot hits the ground on every revolution, it will feel bumpy. i could be wrong but that’s the only thing i can come up with. unless the suspension needs tuning. even if the suspension needs tuning the ride should be smooth of pavement, especially a newly paved road. this is why i think it’s flat spots on the tires. your thoughts ?
I guess this is all well & good if you have enough time & deep enough pockets to buy lots of tyres & compare them but in the real world it's just go with the reviews or, usually, stick with a brand you 're familiar with. For road tyres you have to make many more compromises, wet vs dry grip, longevity, feel. No one has the time & resource to go into all this depth & even fewer have the skill to truly assess performance accurately.
As an individual, sure - and as you say, reviews are very helpful so there's plenty of good information here to guide you if you have 10-15 minutes to ponder some choices via critical thinking.
@@catalystreactionsbw It's a tricky one and there's a lot of subjective personal choice involved too, so the recommendation of others is not always useful. Especially in these days of market driven hyperbole and a need to have "the best".
On my FJR 1300, the Bridgestone BT023 ride is smoother and very fast on the Interstate. It's a high speed tire. As for the new Michelin Road 5 GT's I installed: Superb cornering grip, probably very good wet grip (not tested yet), more road noise, and it transmits every ripple and bump even after dialing down the preload, rebound and compression damping. High rolling resistance: It can't go near as fast as a Bridgestone 023 on the Interstate - feels 10 or 15 mph slower for the same throttle. It's a great tire but has different characteristics.
Convenient that you covered this subject. I've got a set of Pierlli SC2 slicks on that are a number of years old with a track day at UMC and many moderate to fast pace canyon miles. They've still got good tread left but I'm concerned about doing a trackday, actually getting them up to temp and ending up finding out the hard way it was a bad idea. I've heard guys talking about heat cycles and only getting so many before the tire oils burn off and the rubber hardens. Is there anything to that? Would I be foolish to run warmers and trackday older tires like this? Thanks again to both Daves for making quality content! Looking forward to seeing you at Laguna!
Question: if I don't know yet if I want more or less feedback, harder or softer compound, etc. is there a model that is the most neutral in your opinion? To use as a starting point?
Tires tend to be ordered either online or the retailer will just ask you what you want. I've never seen a massive warehouse like the one in the thumbnail where you can check them all and even then I've never seen a manufacturer clearly say "this is a hard carcass tire with a more pointed curve to give strong feeback and consistent contact patch" Obviously you have years of experience in what brands and models of tires are good for. Is there an easy place to get this information? I also need to get one of those profile tools you used. I've got my first track day and superbike school uk coming up when lockdown lifts but i ride every single day in all conditions even sometimes when I shouldn't like when it's a bit frosty or icy so I have a decent amount experience in poor conditions. I currently use Michelin pilot road 4 because they are good in the cold and the have better tread for bad weather than the pilot 5 from what i can see. I will try something else once it warms up a bit here but im not sure what. The pilot 4's warm up nicely in the cold and they slide in a very controlled way which is nice when the roads are greasy. But I'm curious about other brands like Bridgestone and dunlop now that you have said about some brands using a harder carcass. I really like feedback from the road. The more I have the more comfortable I feel mentally.
All are great tyres. Question is do you want feedback or bumps getting soaked up? That will guide you to the carcass you need. Then make a choice on single or double compound tyres based on longevity and your $$ willingness to buy tyres.
Thanks guys i ride an FZ8 fast but on normal roads / motorways no track use. But go on tours to spain and france where theres plenty of opportunity to get low in the bends, id prefer a little more grip than longevity so i can get to know the bike more. I already have a Bridgestone on the rear
@@problemslayer3538 get the s22 front I've been using my set from new. Have about 5000km on them including 3 track days. It's awesome! Fair longevity but also great feedback and grip even at track pace. So wouldn't let you down in the twisties for sure.
The 190/55 will raise the rear and push the balance point far forward making the bike hard to turn initially. The pinch on the tire will make the 190 rounder therefore turn slower. I would suggest a 180/60 for excellent positive results.
Is there a difference in profile between Brigestone T31 and Pirelli Angel GT 2? I feel like the T31 initial turn is faster while the GT2 feels "reluctant" in the initial turn.
I will not mix brands unless it is an emergency. Brands & models have matched roll profiles so that can significantly change how the bikes steers with front or rear leading first.
Best tyre for uk sunny day rides? Max grip and not worried if they don’t last long, I’d rather more grip than saving money and slide down the road lol ***For a gsxr1000r
Is there a public source of profile/carcass/geometry data? I know the manufacturer doesn't show most of that information, vendors... maybe some, I haven't found any, users... that would be interesting, an objective point of view, but there are none as far as I know.
The profile at least is generally known and mentioned in tire tests or in forums. So e.g. you can ask in a forum and people will tell you Michelin sports tires do always have that sharp profile. Carcass feeling is also mentioned in good tests of sport tires. Geometrie is the only easy one here: it says it on the tire. 180/55 means the height is 55% of the width of 180mm.
You got my attention quite some time ago, but now this is something I wanna know. S22 vs Power 5 is actually my question for my R6. I used to have road 5's on my last bike but I don't like the S22 's my R6 has. I just don't know what part of them is the part I don't like.
Hoi Sjoerd, ik rijd momenteel met de power 5, maar ik vind de s22 juist prettiger rijden. Geweldige grip aan de voorkant en de compound aan de rand van de band is ook zachter dan van de power 5 voor de grip bij grote hellingshoek. Power 5 is volgens mij iets steiler dan de s22 dus het zou kunnen dat die iets sneller instuurt. Ik had de comment geplaatst voordat ik de video helemaal haf bekeken, maar Dave bevestigt inderdaad wat ik in mijn comment zeg.
@@landridaltwood2698 I was just saying that i like the feeling from te s22 more than the power 5. Most likely because of the stiffer carcass. The grip from the front is amazing. I also think that the outer compound from the s22 is softer than the outer compound from the power 5. My choice would be the s22, but i am riding the power 5 currently.
@@rgsauls01 yeah I’m just over 100 miles in on the q3+ so barely have it broken in, but liking it so far. Can’t wait to get to the track with it. I’ll try to remember to update once I end up putting the S22’s on!
Just got s22s put on myself. But Its still off season for me. Can't beat the price. I heard under hard riding on a 1k the s22 rear can get a little loose from the heat. Also heard the q3+ will get greasy under track conditions. Both harder tires, but I also heard the q3 is a little stiffer and the s22s last longer. Very interested in your opinion on them.
@@DarkIzo why does an S1000RR handle better when you go from a 200 to a 190 ? My VF1000RE, had a 160 fitted to the rear, fitted the correct sized 140 and it no longer handle like a wheel barrow.
@@alanbrown5593 because the circumference of the 190 might be smaller and better suited to the wheel, allowing the bike to tip in faster/more easily but in the case of suzukis 90' budget lineup, going bigger is better for safety reasons as well as well as handling reasons as well as broader choice of tires and better technology
@@DarkIzo wider doesn't often mean an increase the contact patch. There is an optimum size for the rim width, a couple of my bmw came with sports wheels which have a 6" compared to a standard 5•5" rim which meant 190/55 rather than a 180/55. My old RSV1000SP used a 65 profile front tyre, good luck with that, it was either a 120/60 or 120/70 choice. then a lot prefer the feel of a 180/55 compared to the 190/50, or even 200/50. My SV track bike had a marginal improvement on earlier throttle application, but isn't as sweet on wider tyres; you takes your choice.
Def milking your knowledge for some income, but that's the capitalism way. And kudos for that, just Too bad I don't have any money. At least I can watch the teasers for free
These videos are almost clickbait. Enticing you with potential to learn and then offering only a few keywords on the whiteboard and telling us to buy the full version. Not very good for youtube.
It's this way for at least 2 years, and it's ok. For $4.2/month you can get high quality information without ads, and you are supporting Dave's living.
So they are crappy now with bad information? Or that's just a complaint based on me having a business and asking for subscriber support to make videos as I have all the outlay for travel, expenses, vehicle maintenance etc. The free video section is there for you to use so you never have to watch a preview again or be diligent and leverage the nuggets in each preview.
This guy amazing.
Ever since he showed me how to adjust my brake & clutch levers I been subscribed.
Its amazing how much more responsive you get without wasting throw to grab the levers.
Tyres today are arguably the biggest improvements available for your chosen bike in 30 years! The 90’s the bikes where improving at a rate much higher than the tyre manufactures. Hence why then (arguably more again than today) didn’t have as great a choice and would stick with a know set, whilst still experimenting with others. Not one (same size shoe for an individual) works the same. Hence why some racers would prefer a particular brand and model, where another rider (like fo like in lap times) may not be as quick or feel as confident as one another... Today, we a blessed with so many choices and it really comes down to fining the right ones for yourself. Just taking someone else’s opinion, might not actually work for you! A awesome topic! Thank you Dave and Dave! 👍😎🇦🇺
Absolutely, my 96 fzr600 feels pretty amazing on some newish kenda sport touring tires (bias ply), as fun as my 06 gsxr600 on michelin pp3's. A little softer in suspension, but grip wise perfect for the bike and geometry.
@@Nolan001001 100%. I would love to see the difference modern tyres would make in terms of lap times when fitted to the race bikes from the 90’s. I live in Melbourne (one to two and a half hours to Phillip Island, depending on location). They would be seconds a lap quicker which would actually puts them at about the same pace as the WSB and MotoGP bikes of today! With zero rider aids! Just talent!
@@marcusgeorge1825 Slick tires haven't evolved much. Race bikes from the 90's wouldn't be able to compete because of power and chassis/suspension differences.
@@FlameHazeist I was originally talking about tyres that are road legal. You don’t think they have made massive improvements? The slick tyre options have also improved! Maybe not to the same degree. However, take a look at the lap times (on any track where a World Series” event took place. If the slick tyres (as you say) have only improved slightly then the times would still be closer! Maybe not enough to be faster now than the current bikes, however the actual gap will be closer than you think. Remember, the 90’s had factory teams (vs today comparatively speaking) throw heaps of money at their machines! A 10% better slick tyre set (in grip, feel and durability would take seconds of laps times! Especially the faster ones.
@@FlameHazeist Q. Has the chassis and suspension changed that much? Power yes (the engines are bigger, plus they have electronic rider aids...). Another question, regarding the bit that is touching the ground. The tyre contact patch (not so different). Yes they are wider at the back now, which means the bikes need a greater lean angle for a set corner speed, however you still need to get that power to the ground, which is still about the same size (the size of a match box). Horse power still needs to be applied to that area. Yes? If you were to say just take Michael Doohan’s NSR500 as an example, it was producing 186 hP (at the rear wheel) and also lighter than the 4 strokes of today and no where near as easy to ride... Contact patch!
I would be cracking up if I went to Cyclegear and Dave was in there digging through the tire rack lololol
I have a 2009 ninja 650… I have done nothing but change tires since I bought it. I’m 180 pounds do mostly winding mountain roads and some highway. Always wears out in middle and left side . Chain is aligned running 35 rear 34 front
Number of left vs right turns plus general camber of the road via engineering/build always depletes the left side if you drive/ride on the left side of the road. If you love left turns and use more of the tire you will be accelerating harder so that adds to the left side wearing out faster.
The premium video is excellent! Absolutely full of helpful, useful information.
Thanks Dave! 😃👍❤️🏍
Keep yourself safe!
Randy
i have a new XC…..the ride is always bumpy. new paved roads are bumpy.
old paved roads are bumpy.
the ride is always bumpy.
my bike is a 2022, which i bought this week in june of 2023.
considering it’s a left over i’m thinking it has been sitting in the showroom for a long time and one or both tires have a flat spot.
as that flat spot hits the ground on every revolution, it will feel bumpy.
i could be wrong but that’s the only thing i can come up with.
unless the suspension needs tuning.
even if the suspension needs tuning the ride should be smooth of pavement, especially a newly paved road. this is why i think it’s flat spots on the tires.
your thoughts ?
Have you assessed fork and shock travel used to know if your suspension is too hard or too soft?
I guess this is all well & good if you have enough time & deep enough pockets to buy lots of tyres & compare them but in the real world it's just go with the reviews or, usually, stick with a brand you 're familiar with. For road tyres you have to make many more compromises, wet vs dry grip, longevity, feel. No one has the time & resource to go into all this depth & even fewer have the skill to truly assess performance accurately.
As an individual, sure - and as you say, reviews are very helpful so there's plenty of good information here to guide you if you have 10-15 minutes to ponder some choices via critical thinking.
@@catalystreactionsbw It's a tricky one and there's a lot of subjective personal choice involved too, so the recommendation of others is not always useful. Especially in these days of market driven hyperbole and a need to have "the best".
@@cliveadams7629 Fair comment. We just try to give an objective POV based on testing and start a conversation with good information.
On my FJR 1300, the Bridgestone BT023 ride is smoother and very fast on the Interstate. It's a high speed tire. As for the new Michelin Road 5 GT's I installed: Superb cornering grip, probably very good wet grip (not tested yet), more road noise, and it transmits every ripple and bump even after dialing down the preload, rebound and compression damping. High rolling resistance: It can't go near as fast as a Bridgestone 023 on the Interstate - feels 10 or 15 mph slower for the same throttle. It's a great tire but has different characteristics.
Convenient that you covered this subject. I've got a set of Pierlli SC2 slicks on that are a number of years old with a track day at UMC and many moderate to fast pace canyon miles. They've still got good tread left but I'm concerned about doing a trackday, actually getting them up to temp and ending up finding out the hard way it was a bad idea. I've heard guys talking about heat cycles and only getting so many before the tire oils burn off and the rubber hardens. Is there anything to that? Would I be foolish to run warmers and trackday older tires like this?
Thanks again to both Daves for making quality content! Looking forward to seeing you at Laguna!
Beautiful best video since sliced bread.
That is a profound compliment if readers know what that means. Thanks!
Question: if I don't know yet if I want more or less feedback, harder or softer compound, etc. is there a model that is the most neutral in your opinion? To use as a starting point?
Neutral would be Bridgestone S22 or Michelin Power 5.
Between 2020 13000km. Vs the new one manufacture on 2018 ,which one ‘s the best?
Tires tend to be ordered either online or the retailer will just ask you what you want. I've never seen a massive warehouse like the one in the thumbnail where you can check them all and even then I've never seen a manufacturer clearly say "this is a hard carcass tire with a more pointed curve to give strong feeback and consistent contact patch"
Obviously you have years of experience in what brands and models of tires are good for. Is there an easy place to get this information? I also need to get one of those profile tools you used.
I've got my first track day and superbike school uk coming up when lockdown lifts but i ride every single day in all conditions even sometimes when I shouldn't like when it's a bit frosty or icy so I have a decent amount experience in poor conditions. I currently use Michelin pilot road 4 because they are good in the cold and the have better tread for bad weather than the pilot 5 from what i can see. I will try something else once it warms up a bit here but im not sure what. The pilot 4's warm up nicely in the cold and they slide in a very controlled way which is nice when the roads are greasy. But I'm curious about other brands like Bridgestone and dunlop now that you have said about some brands using a harder carcass. I really like feedback from the road. The more I have the more comfortable I feel mentally.
Which would be the best grip for the front tyre during lean angles, the P5 or S22 or even Metzelers and continentals
I would go with the S22, but both will require some pace before you start feeling them push.
All are great tyres. Question is do you want feedback or bumps getting soaked up? That will guide you to the carcass you need. Then make a choice on single or double compound tyres based on longevity and your $$ willingness to buy tyres.
Thanks guys i ride an FZ8 fast but on normal roads / motorways no track use. But go on tours to spain and france where theres plenty of opportunity to get low in the bends, id prefer a little more grip than longevity so i can get to know the bike more. I already have a Bridgestone on the rear
@@problemslayer3538 get the s22 front
I've been using my set from new. Have about 5000km on them including 3 track days.
It's awesome!
Fair longevity but also great feedback and grip even at track pace. So wouldn't let you down in the twisties for sure.
@@problemslayer3538 Makes sense - tyres need to suit the intent :)
Hello brother good day. For Honda Cb650r is it ok if I change the back stock tire is 180. Is ok if I change it to 190 ?
Your wheel isn't wide enough for that. Don't be a ricer
180 is enough. You could almost go for 160 with that power
180 turns better than 190
The 190/55 will raise the rear and push the balance point far forward making the bike hard to turn initially. The pinch on the tire will make the 190 rounder therefore turn slower. I would suggest a 180/60 for excellent positive results.
Is there a difference in profile between Brigestone T31 and Pirelli Angel GT 2? I feel like the T31 initial turn is faster while the GT2 feels "reluctant" in the initial turn.
That tactile/seat of the pants feel is due to hard carcass T31 vs soft carcass GT2
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for the reply! I guess I prefer the hard carcass of T31 then.
Is mixing brands good or bad. I have an s22 on the rear and a Rosso Corsa 2 on the front of a 2015 s1000rr?
I will not mix brands unless it is an emergency. Brands & models have matched roll profiles so that can significantly change how the bikes steers with front or rear leading first.
@@catalystreactionsbw oh that sounds bad what about going rs10 or rs11 on the front
@@optony9606 Staying within a brand is safer overall. I have seen riders with S22 rear and R10 front loving the way their bike handles.
@@catalystreactionsbw Awesome thanks Dav I will go with that
Best tyre for uk sunny day rides? Max grip and not worried if they don’t last long, I’d rather more grip than saving money and slide down the road lol ***For a gsxr1000r
Softer carcass takes away the bumps for a smoother ride so Q4 or Michelin RS.
Is there a public source of profile/carcass/geometry data?
I know the manufacturer doesn't show most of that information, vendors... maybe some, I haven't found any, users... that would be interesting, an objective point of view, but there are none as far as I know.
The profile at least is generally known and mentioned in tire tests or in forums. So e.g. you can ask in a forum and people will tell you Michelin sports tires do always have that sharp profile.
Carcass feeling is also mentioned in good tests of sport tires.
Geometrie is the only easy one here: it says it on the tire. 180/55 means the height is 55% of the width of 180mm.
You got my attention quite some time ago, but now this is something I wanna know. S22 vs Power 5 is actually my question for my R6. I used to have road 5's on my last bike but I don't like the S22 's my R6 has. I just don't know what part of them is the part I don't like.
Hoi Sjoerd, ik rijd momenteel met de power 5, maar ik vind de s22 juist prettiger rijden. Geweldige grip aan de voorkant en de compound aan de rand van de band is ook zachter dan van de power 5 voor de grip bij grote hellingshoek.
Power 5 is volgens mij iets steiler dan de s22 dus het zou kunnen dat die iets sneller instuurt.
Ik had de comment geplaatst voordat ik de video helemaal haf bekeken, maar Dave bevestigt inderdaad wat ik in mijn comment zeg.
@@frankeichhorn7979 English?
@@landridaltwood2698 I was just saying that i like the feeling from te s22 more than the power 5. Most likely because of the stiffer carcass. The grip from the front is amazing. I also think that the outer compound from the s22 is softer than the outer compound from the power 5.
My choice would be the s22, but i am riding the power 5 currently.
@@frankeichhorn7979Great info. I am deciding between these two on my Honda CBR1000rr. Thanks bro
Great viedo.
Aspect ratio of oem front tire on my zx6r is 65, but not offered any more. Should I go up to 70, or down to 60? No racing.
Go to 70 series for better braking stability, essential on street bikes.
I just got a set of Q3+ and a set of S22’s. Mounted the Q3+ first then gonna try the S22’s. I should be getting called from MotoGP in no time
I have s22 now. Got good life from them
Would love to hear your take on the two. I have Q3+ on now and love the tyre so far.
@@rgsauls01 yeah I’m just over 100 miles in on the q3+ so barely have it broken in, but liking it so far. Can’t wait to get to the track with it. I’ll try to remember to update once I end up putting the S22’s on!
Just got s22s put on myself. But Its still off season for me. Can't beat the price. I heard under hard riding on a 1k the s22 rear can get a little loose from the heat. Also heard the q3+ will get greasy under track conditions. Both harder tires, but I also heard the q3 is a little stiffer and the s22s last longer. Very interested in your opinion on them.
just take the tire the manufacturer tells you to take in the manual?
It is easy to do so.
That thumbnal was that a mach 1 store?
Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Correct.
I just put new PR5'S on my bike about 4 days ago,
Looking forward to another good year riding
Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Stay tuned for our hypersport tire test that begins next month.
@@catalystreactionsbw I picked dave's brain few months ago when I was rebuilding my forks 😁😎
i have only ever bought Tyres maybe thats where im going wrong
Lol, ADHD? Hard carcass then 😂
#4 Don't go to Langston . . they will scratch your wheel
Then there's the people who think wider tyres = better. 🙈
assuming youve got 110 front abd 140 rear then yeah
wider = better
@@DarkIzo why does an S1000RR handle better when you go from a 200 to a 190 ?
My VF1000RE, had a 160 fitted to the rear, fitted the correct sized 140 and it no longer handle like a wheel barrow.
@@alanbrown5593 because the circumference of the 190 might be smaller and better suited to the wheel, allowing the bike to tip in faster/more easily
but in the case of suzukis 90' budget lineup, going bigger is better for safety reasons as well as well as handling reasons as well as broader choice of tires and better technology
@@DarkIzo wider doesn't often mean an increase the contact patch.
There is an optimum size for the rim width, a couple of my bmw came with sports wheels which have a 6" compared to a standard 5•5" rim which meant 190/55 rather than a 180/55.
My old RSV1000SP used a 65 profile front tyre, good luck with that, it was either a 120/60 or 120/70 choice. then a lot prefer the feel of a 180/55 compared to the 190/50, or even 200/50.
My SV track bike had a marginal improvement on earlier throttle application, but isn't as sweet on wider tyres; you takes your choice.
@@DarkIzo thats my recent yamaha aerox tyres setup :) and yeah hella good grip
Def milking your knowledge for some income, but that's the capitalism way. And kudos for that, just Too bad I don't have any money. At least I can watch the teasers for free
These videos are almost clickbait. Enticing you with potential to learn and then offering only a few keywords on the whiteboard and telling us to buy the full version. Not very good for youtube.
Your videos used to be good and informative. Now that you've gone all commercial it's no fun anymore, just previews.. .
You mean you don’t want to pay 😂
apart from the trash or treasure series its been more than 10 intro videos since the last proper video
It's this way for at least 2 years, and it's ok. For $4.2/month you can get high quality information without ads, and you are supporting Dave's living.
So they are crappy now with bad information? Or that's just a complaint based on me having a business and asking for subscriber support to make videos as I have all the outlay for travel, expenses, vehicle maintenance etc. The free video section is there for you to use so you never have to watch a preview again or be diligent and leverage the nuggets in each preview.
@@dizzicz Thanks for your support of my work and business!