On the Focus, or almost any other Ford with the 2.0,2.3,or 2.5 liter Duratec motors, this procedure is easier if you just unplug and remove the ignition coil to the #2 cylinder before you start working on the CHTS. Hope that helps.
You rock.. my 2007 focus thought was toast.. nobody could figure it out.. thanks so much... I have 2 2007 Ford focus courier one with 377000 miles all original drive train.. other with 500000 plus miles.. so funny cause I was so stumped heading 65 Miles plus out of Denver ( overheating on hills stress ) to purchase a 2013 see etc.. car ad was wrong ( automatic ) discovered this video and immediately fixed my car after I did the thermostat the .. water pump as l etc all new hoses.. thanks your the very very very best !
Thank you....that helped me out big time......I have a 08 and its in the same location not on the thermostat and after replacement no check engine light !!
Your video is a big help thank you. When you went back to autozone to switch the part out was is called a “ cylinder thermostat sensor “ that you needed ?
The sensor the guy bought new does not have threads it has an o-ring therefore it will not screw into the cylinder head like the original one that he had taken out look very closely at both pieces and you'll see the original one has threads the new one does not
I have both engines... both the D23 and the D20 have the same sensor... now the D25 is a bit different. This will require soldering if you want to use it.
it's on the valve cover between the number 2 and 3 coil on pack. just a little tip when removing the boot to gain access to the temp sensor remove the number 2 coil to give you more working room
Don't know how you got a 21 mm deep socket over the sensor far enough to unscrew it. I've got a 2006 and the deep socket doesn't fit far enough down to do anything... Interesting
It could. but you also would keep on an eye on the gauge cluster. I'd take an obdII scanner and watch the coolant level rise while looking at the gauge hand.
@1:16, the part you pointed to, I thought that was AC because that's the AC compressor, isn’t it? The water pump pulley has 3 bolts. Isn't that how we tell the difference? When i watched how to change the thermostat A1 Auto, on YT, it shows it is located 180 degrees on the other side of the engine. Im not an expert, at all here. Im just trying to generate discussion so we all can be more clear. Thank you for the video. BTW, Ive been searching for repair videos for a 2.3L 2004 ZTW Focus wagon, if that may be the difference. I know Focuses came with different engines.
I've seen that 00 through 04 engines locations are different though. For example the TH and the TPS are bridge together on the 00 through 04 models. Separate on the 05 through 07 models
You said that you could have bought the shorter part at Auto Zone, but you didn't want to splice it together. You didn't say where you bought the longer part?
@@FocusedHands sorry never got back to you, car is completed, and my sensor was a little loose so I hand tighted down the pigtail connector and so far, on my test drives and when I look for codes nothing pops up, what I am noticing is when accelerating when I’m on the highway and getting off or going over like 30mph, the vehicle has a little hiccup, but when the vehicle is an idol its running perfectly fine and smooth, I did have a problem with the threading on the valve cover head to the ignition coil, it was as if they put lock tight and it brought the whole peice out as one, out of the valve head, I torched it and got it to separate jB welded it back to its spot so I can thread the bolt back on but when righting down the ignition coil it came loose once more, so I know the 4th ignition coil isn’t fully compressed down there is like a mm where I can push down on the spark plug, I’m going to replace that valve head, but do you thing that ignition coil is the hiccup? My vehicle never made that movement till now,
@@bassjunkie6404 I believe so... a loose valve cover wouldnt cause it to hiccup... but loose ignition coils would. Id also check all your intake hoses and breather tubes too make sure you didn't crack anything. If all that checks out... look at coil boots and make sure they are not swollen... swollen boots do not seat well on the spark plug! Yea ive never known of a valve cover to need the torch... they must have used red lock tight lol. You will forsure need a new valve cover if it is plastic!! Otherwise be ready for more leaks.
@@FocusedHands so fast forward to right now, the misfire I’m assuming was the spark plugs I had bought off rock auto, they were the double platinum Ir no gap, and they were actually discontinued from what I found out when I called the bosch 1800 number to see if they were even for my vehicle but they didn’t tell me why they were discontinued, I got a fresh set from the shop and the car is running smooth, check engin light still comes up so I just ordered that sensor off Amazon, so I’m hoping that the sensor that was in your link is the exact fit because on Amazon it says it won’t fit my vehicle, but on the picture looks just like the one I need, should come in, in about a week or two I’ll keep you posted.
tough one for you! my 05 Focus threw this code and i have replaced thermostat & housing plus i have replaced this sensor and the pigtail connector for it. I just got the same code again, where to go now?
You might have the following: Low coolant... fill it Low coolant... with air in the line... bleed it Low coolant... due to a leak or crack Temperature sensor Thermostat
@Dylan I hate to hear that! Misfires are no laughing matter. Yea tune ups help... i think my first problem with the car was the intake manifold runner control.... i watched alot of videos then changed the part. Next was the throttle body... it was sticking. Cleaned it out... but the sensory was messed up so the car didn't shift right. I then changed the sensory and bam! My first job complete
@Dylan And that is a little secret that most people sleep on about the Ford Focus at least from the 2004 through 2007 years they are really reliable and if you take notice on the roads you will see a lot of people still driving these cars
A man mew sub here I had a 2009 I got new and ended up selling it like a dumb ass and just got a mk3 2011 focus with the stock 17s they was peeling so cleaned them up and painted them it’s silver blac wheels I am looking fit a drop kit for it or info on that way you made the edge wheels work on yours that was a slick look
As far as the edge rims go... you can buy them off offer up... im sure someone is selling them. And on a MK3 model... they would look sick blacked out!
Mines an 07 focus and I don’t have a CEL on but my cooling fan isn’t working. Going through with this and I noticed a lot of oil down there looking down on the plug …. Feel like Thts not normal.
I have a 2010. Changed the cooling fan because it didnt turn on. Then changed the thermostat cuz my car kept overheating. But now it doesnt overheat and doesnt leak. But the car water is so damn hot and boiling. Thjnking its this sensor not making my cooling fans turn on
Thank you. I have the very same problem. Where is the PCV valve on a 2005 Ford Focus? and where is the MAF sensor? Can you please make a video of this?
@@FocusedHands my issue is in the morning it blows cold air and ones the car reaches a certain temp its stop working its like if the sensor its not reading corectly amd make the ac to stop working and dats back my temp gage would go all the way up but the car was still working good the water wasnt even boiling making me think
@@FocusedHands do you know the price of it and the part I'm talking about is the boot it has the wire connected to the Cylinder head temperature sensor
Hi everyone!! Y need to change the same sensor. It's broken, and my temperature gauge is dead. So, the link on the description fits on my Focus 2005 2.0 ZX4? Sorry for my english I write from México.
Correct the 2 sensors in the video are different. The longer sensor is the right one. The short sensor is for the oil pressure. Autozone sold me the wrong sensor... however i returned it for the right 1. Now if you replace this sensor and the check engine light still comes on. You will need to check the thermostat housing. After that the water pump and after that the radiator.
@@FocusedHands what was up with the first one? I unfortunately ordered one similar before I watched your video. I have a 2005 ZX3 2.0L 5 speed. I ordered from RockAuto.
This was before I took the old unit out! It became clear real quick that it would not fit. They even tried not to take the part back... tried to say it was used
Had same issue. Replaced the sensor. ( I did the pig tail splice.) Check engine light went off right away. BUT, after about a mile, it came back on :( So, how does the thermostat set a code? Does it have some kind of sensor on it?
The thermostat does not have a sensor for your cars! I believe the Ford Mondeo is the one with the sensor. If the ECU reads the coolant temp too low once you have brought the car up to temp... it will through the P0128 code. Ford Guys usually say it is either the sensor or the thermostat in our cars. I tell you to check the water pump/ air pockets only if you have already changed the thermostat... so we know it should not be the issue. So if I was in your shoes... I'd start with the sensor(which you have done) the thermostat(which you should replace anyway) Air in the coolant lines, water pump, leaking hoses, Radiator (last)... It is almost never the radiator! Hope this helps
@@FocusedHands i have the same coolant temperature code on the same ford, but could it be the reason why cold AC air comes out of my vent when I'm driving and the AC switch is off?
U don’t splice anything the shorter sensor u have is on the driver side back of head which is the coolant sensor and it doesn’t thread on. The one u are changing is the cylinder head temp sensor
Yea thanks... but the upgraded sensors require splicing... which i didnt have to do! The first sensor is the oil pressure sensor.... thus then i didnt know but over the course of that year i figured it out.
@@FocusedHands No disrespect but iam just giving the Factz the shorter sensor doesn’t have threads so would never screwed maybe u didn’t notice prior to tryin to put it in. That one u had is a coolant sensor located on back of cylinder head drivers side which has a clip that holds it in. As a oil sensor screws in.
@@limitlessworx5724 ah i see the confusion here... in the video i explain i git this from autozone... they said it was the right part but it was not. It does have threads just not deep enough for the CTS. All in all ot was the wrong part. I was told you would need ro splice the new sensor... which is true if you get the upgraded sensor... hence a video i put out about that. But if you watched the video at length it was explained. Thanks for the information though!
On the Focus, or almost any other Ford with the 2.0,2.3,or 2.5 liter Duratec motors, this procedure is easier if you just unplug and remove the ignition coil to the #2 cylinder before you start working on the CHTS. Hope that helps.
You rock.. my 2007 focus thought was toast.. nobody could figure it out.. thanks so much... I have 2 2007 Ford focus courier one with 377000 miles all original drive train.. other with 500000 plus miles.. so funny cause I was so stumped heading 65 Miles plus out of Denver ( overheating on hills stress ) to purchase a 2013 see etc.. car ad was wrong ( automatic ) discovered this video and immediately fixed my car after I did the thermostat the .. water pump as l etc all new hoses.. thanks your the very very very best !
This is what it is all about! Another Focus saved!!
Thank you....that helped me out big time......I have a 08 and its in the same location not on the thermostat and after replacement no check engine light !!
Nice! Mine i had to replace the Thermostat aswell. Nice work!
Your video is a big help thank you.
When you went back to autozone to switch the part out was is called a “ cylinder thermostat sensor “ that you needed ?
Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor
Thank you it helped me out
The sensor the guy bought new does not have threads it has an o-ring therefore it will not screw into the cylinder head like the original one that he had taken out look very closely at both pieces and you'll see the original one has threads the new one does not
This was a perfectly explained video thanks for taking the time to show and explain.
The longer temp sensor is for the 2.3 and the short one is used for the 2.0.
I have both engines... both the D23 and the D20 have the same sensor... now the D25 is a bit different. This will require soldering if you want to use it.
well I have all 3 engines lol... now an ecoboost aswell... opps wasn't suppose to say that!
Man I've come along way since the making of this video lol!
a tip : watch series on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Enrique Quinn yup, I have been watching on flixzone} for since november myself :D
That is the cylinder head temperature not the coolant temperature sensor
Copy that!
it's on the valve cover between the number 2 and 3 coil on pack. just a little tip when removing the boot to gain access to the temp sensor remove the number 2 coil to give you more working room
Its like you only watched the first 30 seconds and nothing else. He was kidding that he couldn't find it, he did eventually find it.
Useful and helpful.
Don't know how you got a 21 mm deep socket over the sensor far enough to unscrew it. I've got a 2006 and the deep socket doesn't fit far enough down to do anything... Interesting
That is interesting!
Im using the sockets by Pittsburgh
So after research I found out why yours did work! You need a deep socket without the inner shoulders
Hello I have a 2008 focus 1.4 zetec. Will this be the same as mine. Thanks.
Nope! Yours is located on the thermostat housing.
If the coolant gauge isn't working, like not going up at all. Could replacing the coolant sensor help it work again?
It could. but you also would keep on an eye on the gauge cluster. I'd take an obdII scanner and watch the coolant level rise while looking at the gauge hand.
@1:16, the part you pointed to, I thought that was AC because that's the AC compressor, isn’t it? The water pump pulley has 3 bolts. Isn't that how we tell the difference?
When i watched how to change the thermostat A1 Auto, on YT, it shows it is located 180 degrees on the other side of the engine.
Im not an expert, at all here. Im just trying to generate discussion so we all can be more clear.
Thank you for the video.
BTW, Ive been searching for repair videos for a 2.3L 2004 ZTW Focus wagon, if that may be the difference. I know Focuses came with different engines.
The part I was pointing to was / is the thermostat housing. With the top between cylinder 2 and 3 being the TPS.
I've seen that 00 through 04 engines locations are different though. For example the TH and the TPS are bridge together on the 00 through 04 models. Separate on the 05 through 07 models
What kind of socket because I bought a 21 mm deep socket and it didn’t fit. I grabbed a 20 mm and it works but it’s not the same pattern as the bolt.
The sockets i have are from harbor freight... they are Pittsburgh brand.
@@FocusedHands I know I seen that, but I pulled out the whole part... and tried the socket over it and it’s to big to even grip the bolt
@@FocusedHands is yours a 6 point socket ? Or is it different
@@craiganthony3824 ill have to check but off the head I think it is a 12 point
@@FocusedHands ok cool. Appreciate you replying back . Keep me updated if you don’t mind 💪
The sensor you got my friend belongs to the sideway of the engine wich is another temp. Colant sensor.
Yep that was the old sensor before i went back and got the right 1! Thanks though
You said that you could have bought the shorter part at Auto Zone, but you didn't want to splice it together. You didn't say where you bought the longer part?
Amazon! I think i left it in the description
I have added the link! You are the 1st person the notice this! Thanks
Si porque yo tengo un Ford Focus 2009 en auto zone no lo tienen los que venden no son los mismos
I changed the thermostat and the sensor, engine light didn’t turn off
Well next you will need to look at the water pump then the radiator. Make sure you dont have air in the line
Good video, thanks for the help 💪🏼
Happy to help!
@@FocusedHands sorry never got back to you, car is completed, and my sensor was a little loose so I hand tighted down the pigtail connector and so far, on my test drives and when I look for codes nothing pops up, what I am noticing is when accelerating when I’m on the highway and getting off or going over like 30mph, the vehicle has a little hiccup, but when the vehicle is an idol its running perfectly fine and smooth, I did have a problem with the threading on the valve cover head to the ignition coil, it was as if they put lock tight and it brought the whole peice out as one, out of the valve head, I torched it and got it to separate jB welded it back to its spot so I can thread the bolt back on but when righting down the ignition coil it came loose once more, so I know the 4th ignition coil isn’t fully compressed down there is like a mm where I can push down on the spark plug, I’m going to replace that valve head, but do you thing that ignition coil is the hiccup? My vehicle never made that movement till now,
@@bassjunkie6404 I believe so... a loose valve cover wouldnt cause it to hiccup... but loose ignition coils would. Id also check all your intake hoses and breather tubes too make sure you didn't crack anything. If all that checks out... look at coil boots and make sure they are not swollen... swollen boots do not seat well on the spark plug! Yea ive never known of a valve cover to need the torch... they must have used red lock tight lol. You will forsure need a new valve cover if it is plastic!! Otherwise be ready for more leaks.
@@FocusedHands so fast forward to right now, the misfire I’m assuming was the spark plugs I had bought off rock auto, they were the double platinum Ir no gap, and they were actually discontinued from what I found out when I called the bosch 1800 number to see if they were even for my vehicle but they didn’t tell me why they were discontinued, I got a fresh set from the shop and the car is running smooth, check engin light still comes up so I just ordered that sensor off Amazon, so I’m hoping that the sensor that was in your link is the exact fit because on Amazon it says it won’t fit my vehicle, but on the picture looks just like the one I need, should come in, in about a week or two I’ll keep you posted.
It’s a 2007 Ford Focus se 2.0 so I’m guessing I’m good, I’m assuming yours was a 2.0 the 2005
Do you know where the cht sensor is on a 2001 ford focus single cam!!?
Thats the zetec right?
If so you will need to remove the alternator to get to that sensor
There is a guy that has a video about it... 2001 ford focus cylinder head temperature sensor replacement and location. Thats the full title
@@FocusedHands no it’s a single cam engine. We are having so much trouble trying to find where the sensor located. I even called ford
@@FocusedHands yeah that was one of the first video so we watched but as you can see it is a dual cam engine and ours is a single
tough one for you!
my 05 Focus threw this code and i have replaced thermostat & housing plus i have replaced this sensor and the pigtail connector for it.
I just got the same code again, where to go now?
Also i had the same exact problems as you lol, wrong sensor at first then right sensor then snapped the pigtail 😂 brittle plastic sucks
You should check that you dont jabe air bubbles in your coolant. Past that check that the water pump is working.
You should check that you dont have air bubbles in your coolant. Past that... check that the water pump is working.
I have a code p0128. But I notice my coolant is low. What could be the problem
You might have the following:
Low coolant... fill it
Low coolant... with air in the line... bleed it
Low coolant... due to a leak or crack
Temperature sensor
Thermostat
All an update for you! If you change the sensory and the check engine light does not go off. You will need to also change the thermostat out.
@Dylan I didnt... and didn't have any issues.
@Dylan the idle will be a few things... tje egr / runner contols/ hoses for the runner control. Im leaving out 1
I've had rough idle before... back about 100k miles... ended up being the hose to the runner control. Then the egr went out
@Dylan I hate to hear that! Misfires are no laughing matter. Yea tune ups help... i think my first problem with the car was the intake manifold runner control.... i watched alot of videos then changed the part. Next was the throttle body... it was sticking. Cleaned it out... but the sensory was messed up so the car didn't shift right. I then changed the sensory and bam! My first job complete
@Dylan And that is a little secret that most people sleep on about the Ford Focus at least from the 2004 through 2007 years they are really reliable and if you take notice on the roads you will see a lot of people still driving these cars
A man mew sub here I had a 2009 I got new and ended up selling it like a dumb ass and just got a mk3 2011 focus with the stock 17s they was peeling so cleaned them up and painted them it’s silver blac wheels I am looking fit a drop kit for it or info on that way you made the edge wheels work on yours that was a slick look
As far as the edge rims go... you can buy them off offer up... im sure someone is selling them. And on a MK3 model... they would look sick blacked out!
hi, sorry for my bad english, why difference size? it´s same sensor? in my region only sold me the large, but my car have the short.
Nope the smaller 1 is for the oil pressure
The newer model or updated sensor is short
I have another video explaining it ... you should check it out
Mines an 07 focus and I don’t have a CEL on but my cooling fan isn’t working. Going through with this and I noticed a lot of oil down there looking down on the plug …. Feel like Thts not normal.
You got a valve cover leak
Also you might need to check the wires connected for the fan
@@FocusedHands I bought a brand new fan and it came with all new wiring/plugs and resister . The existing plugs looked clean inside as well.
@@FocusedHands would the oil in there mess up the temp gauge at all?
@@ryanhayward5910 you should not have oil in the temp sensor well.
Do you reset the code when you are done fixing it, or does it go away on its own ?
I reset mine... but if this is your issue... it will go away on its on.
Where do I get the socket for it? Every socket I tried had the shoulder
I got mine from lowes
I have a 2010. Changed the cooling fan because it didnt turn on. Then changed the thermostat cuz my car kept overheating.
But now it doesnt overheat and doesnt leak. But the car water is so damn hot and boiling. Thjnking its this sensor not making my cooling fans turn on
Make sure you check the water pump
Thank you. I have the very same problem. Where is the PCV valve on a 2005 Ford Focus? and where is the MAF sensor? Can you please make a video of this?
Pvc is located behind the intake manifold... maf is below the airbox
Mahalo.@@FocusedHands
@@FocusedHands Indeed it is. Replaced my PCV. Yes, you have to move the intake, but, it's Not really as hard as it looks.
@@Gdawg51785 this is true! I find it easiest just to remove the radiator then remove the intake... you have much more clearance to work
Sensor de temperatura 🌡️ tablero no marca y no se dónde va
So is that the fuel temperature sensors. Cause your link says coolant
So the wrong sensor is the oil pressure sensor.
Cause I get the code to fuel temperature sensor.
@@porigense67 that is on the fuel rail. Connected to a hose right above the fuel injectors
I don't have it. I can't find it. Even ford looked and couldn't find it on my car.
Year make and model of your focus?@@porigense67
Will the ac stop working if i have a vaulty sensor?
If you are talking about the sensor in the video... then no. These 2 are not related. AC system has its own system.
@@FocusedHands my issue is in the morning it blows cold air and ones the car reaches a certain temp its stop working its like if the sensor its not reading corectly amd make the ac to stop working and dats back my temp gage would go all the way up but the car was still working good the water wasnt even boiling making me think
Would the part fit on an 07 Ford focus
The tps part will... not the oil pressure sensor.
I need help so what if the wire broke off what do you do
You will have to re solder it
I've got a video out for that aswell
@@FocusedHands do you know the price of it and the part I'm talking about is the boot it has the wire connected to the Cylinder head temperature sensor
@@justingaming9133 if you need a new one... just visit your local junk yard and cut the new pigtail
@@FocusedHands ok thanks but do I need to replace the boot also
Thanks!! This is helpful
BUT did it actually FIX ANYTHING?
Short answer! Yes. Long answer... it opened up other failed parts. But the code in this video was fixed with the correct part.
Did this make your check engine light come on
Not having it or replacing it?
If replacing it is the question... no! The Thermostat is the issue
Did you get the error code fixed?
Hi everyone!! Y need to change the same sensor. It's broken, and my temperature gauge is dead. So, the link on the description fits on my Focus 2005 2.0 ZX4? Sorry for my english I write from México.
Yes! If you have the 2005 ford focus through 2007 ford focus... the amazon link will fit your car.
@@FocusedHands thanks, great video. You have a new subscriber.
No es el mismo Ino le ba atrabajar la temperatura 🌡️ porque no yegas sta abajo
Correct the 2 sensors in the video are different. The longer sensor is the right one. The short sensor is for the oil pressure. Autozone sold me the wrong sensor... however i returned it for the right 1. Now if you replace this sensor and the check engine light still comes on. You will need to check the thermostat housing. After that the water pump and after that the radiator.
Una pregunta ese sensor nuevo largo le queda al Ford Focus año 2009
Where did you buy the correct sensor at?
The link should be in the description... but for short amazon
@@FocusedHands what was up with the first one? I unfortunately ordered one similar before I watched your video. I have a 2005 ZX3 2.0L 5 speed. I ordered from RockAuto.
@@bluegrasskid the 1st one is a oil pressure sensor.
I’m having problems with the cooling fans. Did this make you cooling fans stop working?
What size of socket please😠
I said 21
Can you not tell the old one got a screw fixing not a push fit, the one is a cooler sensor watch go's on the right side of the engine.
I tell you something that companies bullshiting you don't have to slice anything mate
Yea autozone sold me the part and said they matched
This was before I took the old unit out! It became clear real quick that it would not fit. They even tried not to take the part back... tried to say it was used
As far as soldering the new pigtail goes... depends on the year
Had same issue. Replaced the sensor. ( I did the pig tail splice.) Check engine light went off right away. BUT, after about a mile, it came back on :(
So, how does the thermostat set a code? Does it have some kind of sensor on it?
Now you need to check the water pump and then check the Thermostat. Also make sure you have no air in the cooling system
The thermostat does not have a sensor for your cars! I believe the Ford Mondeo is the one with the sensor. If the ECU reads the coolant temp too low once you have brought the car up to temp... it will through the P0128 code. Ford Guys usually say it is either the sensor or the thermostat in our cars. I tell you to check the water pump/ air pockets only if you have already changed the thermostat... so we know it should not be the issue. So if I was in your shoes... I'd start with the sensor(which you have done) the thermostat(which you should replace anyway) Air in the coolant lines, water pump, leaking hoses, Radiator (last)... It is almost never the radiator! Hope this helps
@@FocusedHands i have the same coolant temperature code on the same ford, but could it be the reason why cold AC air comes out of my vent when I'm driving and the AC switch is off?
@@olajideomotola9939 I doubt it
not 21mm... sloppy video
Yea ok thanks!
U don’t splice anything the shorter sensor u have is on the driver side back of head which is the coolant sensor and it doesn’t thread on. The one u are changing is the cylinder head temp sensor
Yea thanks... but the upgraded sensors require splicing... which i didnt have to do! The first sensor is the oil pressure sensor.... thus then i didnt know but over the course of that year i figured it out.
@@FocusedHands No disrespect but iam just giving the Factz the shorter sensor doesn’t have threads so would never screwed maybe u didn’t notice prior to tryin to put it in. That one u had is a coolant sensor located on back of cylinder head drivers side which has a clip that holds it in. As a oil sensor screws in.
@@limitlessworx5724 ah i see the confusion here... in the video i explain i git this from autozone... they said it was the right part but it was not. It does have threads just not deep enough for the CTS. All in all ot was the wrong part. I was told you would need ro splice the new sensor... which is true if you get the upgraded sensor... hence a video i put out about that. But if you watched the video at length it was explained. Thanks for the information though!
@@FocusedHands 👍🏻