what exactly was the part that fixed the battery ? i dont have that devices you used. Can it be enough to brush it with alcohol or is it necessary to complete all steps ?
He cleaned the PCB board with alcohol maybe some dirt or some particle we're making a short circuit. You have to take the board out if you clean it with alcohol while connected to the battery you will fry the circuit.
You can add a [ momentary (Default ON) push switch], like the ones uses on the inside of older PC-s). If in the future the same problem persists you can disconnect temporarily via the switch without de-soldering! I think Parkside is ahead of the game but needs a lot of software refinement! Excellent Video👍!
I have a 8Ah battery with faulty processor. 95% of the time the battery is dead. Than the board reboots for some reason, and than it functions for a short time, freezes again, and dead until the next reboot.
Интересно. Дано след рестарта да няма проблеми. Вероятно бмс електрониката е зациклила. Почистването на платката никога бе е излишно. Благодаря за интересното видео!
Преди няколко години се опитах да сменя клетките от батерия на лаптоп. И тази батерия не тръгна повече. За тази цел мисля, че трябва да се захранват със външни батерии🤔
@@ErCanEverything Там има защита, докато на батериите на инструментите няма. Ако чипа сметне, че има нещо нередно, тогава спира изхода, чрез транзисторите. За да се възстанови трябва да се програмира. Другият вариант е да свържеш новите клетки в паралел със старите и тогава да премахнеш старите (но не е гарантирано, че ще работи).
You actually only need to unsolder battery and solder back, it is only way to remove power from controller to reset it. Controller was bricked, as soon as charging indicator was not running i recognised this situation, I had same issue after failed bluetooth FMW update, it just bricked controller.
how much is thick the nichel strip? I ask this because I would like to know the maximum current supported. It seems very strange to me that this battery can handle 100 amps even with a nickel strip of 0.2mm which can handle max 10-15 Amps *5(blocks of 21700)=50 Amps maximum load
Seems that whole DC 2132 of this Smart PAPS 208 A1 is somehow affected (some serial error in soldering or errors skipped on AOI inspection) as I just get one unit with this date code for repair with the same symptoms... ;-)
I have a similar batery with problems. It cannot be charged, the leds do not light when push the button and (important) U3 and R44 are overheating. In the video you made these components are at min 2:18, near the P+ connection from the power connetor (and about one cm from the soldering tip from your video). Do you have any suggestion for this problem? Do you have the schematics of the battery?
I use a standard solder sucker, but then I disconnected one by one, which is not in the video. After unsoldering the board I cleaned them again with solder sucker.
It's working now but what is the real couse of this problem? I'm asking because I have the old 20v, 2ah battery and it is working as you shown - tools starts for a moment and stops. Charger can't charge it, either. All cells are in good condition and the voltage in proper range.
I didn't see any significant traces of solder paste, but I doubted it because when I touched certain elements with my finger, only then did the indicator light up. And I doubted it, and therefore I cleansed it. Or get working from cleaning, or from restarting the BMS.
@@hackerice What do u think guys if I would add extra power supply into this thermistor? Like 20v 2amp touch for a few seconds this temperature sensor to flow electric power and warm it-increse resistance? Maybe this would reset PCB? Or maybe change thermistor for new one?
this is 3.3 voltage stabilizer that fails and kills the bt module on the way... sometimes it gets so far as to destroy the microprocessor but in most cases it is enough to replace the stabiliser and remove the bl module which will get burnt as first.
Bei meinem Akku war es so, das er fast ein jahr nicht benutzt wurde und danach sollte er eingesetzt werden. Es tat sich nichts. gesamtspannung 2,8Volt. Der wurde aufgeschraubt, Platine abgelötet und die einzelnen Zellen wurden aufgeladen zuerst mit wenig Strom so 40mA was dann langsam gesteugert wurde bis fast 5 Ampere je Zelle nacheinander. Jede Zelle wurde bis auf 4,1Volt aufgeladen. Akku eine Woche liegenlassen und noch mal getestet. Akkuzellen haben es überlebt! Danach die Platine ausgelötet und kurz an 21,5 Volt angeschlossen. Danach die Platine mit Laborstrippen an den Akku angeschlossen. Die 3 LED`s gigen mal alle an bei dem Anschluss der letzten Stippe an Plus danach leuchtete die gelbe LED für 10 Sekunden und dann tat sich nichts mehr. Der Dipschalter zur Kontrolle der Spannung im Akku konnte man drücken ohne das es irgend eine Funktion sichtbar ergab. Wer hat mehr Infos zur Elektronik von den 8Ampere Akkus?
Hi, My battery worked after cleaning but this problem came again after some time. According to new information, U3 3.3V Voltage regulator and R44 20 Ohm resistor are causing this problem.
I have two batteries which died at the same time with same symptom and this didn't work for me. This blinking error could be a variety of things, and just removing the batteries and cleaning with alcohol might work for lucky few that can get away with just a board reset (which is basically what you did).
Happy New Year! Great video, thank you! I can always learn from you. I have 2 Smart PAPS 208 A1 batteries, the error is as follows. After charging, its charge decreases significantly in 3-4 days, even though it is not in use. When monitored on the application, the operating time is continuous, as if it were in use. What do you think? 🥂
That's why I prefer the classical ones. Not smart. I have six of the old ones, and four smarts. Three of the four smarts have problems. None of the classical ones has any. They all work great.
The smart ones are VERY useful for the high power performance tools, because you can set the current and discharge limits. Those protect both the tool and the battery during heavy duty works. In every other case the "classic" ones are much better. :)
Hello and thanks for the video How the exact same problems with a 4a smart battery, after having strained it with a performance immersion saw. I disassembled everything, I try to power everything with a transformer from notebook to I disassembled everything, I try to power everything with a notebook transformer at about 21//23 v, but pcb doesn't work.maybe too little current?
I think it will work after replacing U3 and R44. They are located next to the positive terminal. But be very careful not to short when you solder them to the battery because it is very risky!
The Resistor of my two not working ones are visually demaged. Can anybody confirm that? In the past i noticed if i touch this region with the fingers a could get the Leds to work.
I have two smart aku 8ah battery. One is full empty and wont charge. Can i use method as you show on other video when i connect one battery to another and wait 10-30 min? Will this damage smart battery?
@@ErCanEverything you mean i can connect full smart 8ah battery to "dead" 8 ah.. so positive to positive and negative to negative.. can i do whitout lightblub?
I do not recommend without a light bulb or any consumer if you do not know how much current will flow when charging the other battery. If you have multimeter to measure the current and if it is not more than 5-6A there will be no problem.
Здравей, моята батерия е със същото състояние. Имам само двойно зарядно и като я сложа, лампите не мигат, стои все едно няма батерия на зарядното. Мога ли да я възбудя с друга 8 амперова и да се оправи или е нужно да почистя платката както ти показваш?
I did everything as in the video.When I put my finger on r46 board works. When I remove it does not work. The contact is good everywhere. What should I do?
I have the same problem. But I don't have such a power supply. Is the device necessary to save the battery? Do I have to loosen all solder joints? Or is it enough to bridge with another, fully charged battery?
If in variant 1 it does not work with external cables, then you can charge each cell separately without desoldering but with thin wires and be careful with the polarity! Each cell can be charged with only 1 cell from the other 4V battery, not a total of 20V voltage!
@@ErCanEverything I can measure a full 20v at the contacts. I'll take the battery apart tomorrow and take a closer look.Thank you very much for the quick response. I'll report when I know more details.
Hello again. disassembled the battery. The cells are all at 4V. I haven't undone the solder joints yet. If the battery is fully charged, why is the board not responding? Do I need the 21V? What does it have to do with temperature? What should I do next?
This batteries are junk!!!i bought 3 units...after 1 year,only one is working...two of them are not charging anymore....bastards!!!chinesse junk!lidl is a shit hole!
Май рестарта помогна,BMS платката би трябвало да се е изключила след отделянето от батериите и изключване от лабораторния блок и да се активира при подаване на напрежение от зарядното,незнам при теб как проработи без този цикъл.Поздрави
Не видях съществени следи от спояваща паста, но се съмнявах, защото при докосване на определени елементи с пръст чак тогава светеше индикаторът. И се усъмних в това и затова го чистих. Или се подобри от почистване или от рестартиране на BMS'а. Нямаше и студени спойки.
@@ErCanEverything yes, but i'm talking about the wire on the board. There Is two thin wire phisically soldered on the board. One wire is covered by black heat shrink tubing and the other wire Is naked.... They ending on battery pack...do you desoldering them or Simply cuting them?
@diopadreonnipotente4968 These are the wire to the temperature sensor, that is apparently thicked on the board and in contact to the battery block with thermal paste, look at 2:17 top of picture.
In my case it was so. I slightly moistened my finger to have conductivity and touched where the temperature sensor is visible to where the positive output of the battery is. Then I press the button and it lights up.
@@karolkarol3950 From the polishing terminal to where it says BAT3 C36 R55 C38 D7 D6 Q12 all this area. because I can't send you photos, or give me a link to draw you and send you the photo.
имам батерия на парксайд 20v 4ah,когато я сложа на зарядно започват да мигат и двата диода ? всички батерии вътре са със еднакъв волтаж? от какво може да е :(
Един приятел имаше 2 батерии със същия проблем, когато отворихме BMS на едната батерия беше клеасал (позеленял) и неможахме да го подкараме да работи. А на другата, разпоихме BMS и след почистване със спирт и подсушаване се оправи
Io ho risolto pulendo si lo stampato ma senza dissaldarlo sono riuscito a resettarla toccando con il dito ed aiutandomi con due spezzoni di filo i due pin del connettore tra il positivo e quello vicino.
There ar 4 connectors on the battery. + and- are on the sides, but what are the 2 in the middle doing? Can i use this as a power source just by connecting +- but leaving the 2 in the middle unused? Thanks for any comments.
Two connectors in the middle are used for feedback. One is used by the charger and the other by the tool. It's no problem to use the terminals to power something. But the voltage should not drop below 16V because there is no low discharge protection when you use only the side ones. 🙂
@@ErCanEverything Thanks mate, highly appreciated! That would hav been my next question about low discharge protection. Actually this is a very nice nice battery pack for high drain DIY projects, looks like very good price/ quality ratio compared to Chinese online crap from aliexpress! Did i get it correctly, the low discharge protection is actually in each tool then? Or how is the feedback from the tool working?
@@Sim_Tiby OK, thanks. So the battery would proceed to feed but the tool sense the low voltage through the T pin and disconnect. 100 amp is huge for this size....
Моята показва че е заредена но в приложението пише 3% и когато я сложа на зарядното свети само зелената лампичка в приложението показва че се зарежда но седи на едни и същи проценти. Разпоих платката и я запоих отново но няма ефект.
I have the same issue after Firmwareupdate. The Battery is locked After Firmwareupdate and the Key is 1234. If you never use it before you will not „see“ this option in your App 😂
I unsoldered with a vacuum pump for tinol, but after a while the same problem appeared again and this happened after discharging the battery to half. try to charge with another 21V power supply
@@ErCanEverything Same for me. Battey still under warranty, but I want to understand. I have 4 smart batteries and two have this problem. On the first time I tried your procedure and didn't work, so I gave it back. On the second one, it was in perfect condition until I used it as a powerbank with the parkside usb adapter. It was showing red light, but voltage is actually 20.4 and now the check button doesn't work anymore. I'll try to put it in parallel with a full charged 8ah sister
Sir I change 18650 batteries from parkside drill and drill works for 1 second and stops ..then I have to take out batteries from drill and put them again to work for one second ..what do you think is th problem ?
Measure the cell voltages whether they are normal or at least all of them around 4V or charge the battery with an external power supply of 21.6 V so that bms can read the input current through it. It is possible for the new bms to report a malfunction when the cells are disconnected. Try this method if it will help you: ruclips.net/video/upJx5VWLtDc/видео.html
@@ErCanEverything battery is 18v ..can connect with 20v ? Also when I put battery in charger it’s blinking red and green light …not together alternately
The symptom is the same as in the video! Only with a "stupid" BMS 20V 2Ah battery How can I delete the error??? the cells are balanced, charged and at 20.5V. ??? A tünet ugynaz, mint a videóban! Csak "buta "BMS 20V 2Ah akkunál. Hogan tudom törölni a hibát??? a cellák kiegyenlítve , feltöltve, 20,5V-on. ??? Belirti videodakiyle aynı! Sadece "aptal" bir BMS 20V 2Ah batarya ile Hatayı nasıl silebilirim??? hücreler dengeli, şarjlı ve 20,5V'dadır. ??? Das Symptom ist das gleiche wie im Video! Nur mit einem „dummen“ BMS 20V 2Ah Batterry. Wie kann ich den Fehler löschen??? Die Zellen sind ausgeglichen, geladen und haben eine Spannung von 20,5 V. ???
Ercan Usta Hâyırlı Bayramlar. Sana bir konu hakkında danışmak istiyorum Ben genellikle einhell pxc 18v batarya alt yapısıyla çalışan ürünleri ve birazda parkside 20v alt yapısındaki ürünleri kullanıyorum. Bu bataryaları hem Einhell hem Parkside ürünlerinde dönüştürerek kulanmak istiyorum bu donusturuculeri fiyat performans olacak şekilde nasıl temin edebilirim en az 12 tane edinmem lazım. Tekrardan hâyırlı bayramlar
what exactly was the part that fixed the battery ? i dont have that devices you used. Can it be enough to brush it with alcohol or is it necessary to complete all steps ?
He cleaned the PCB board with alcohol maybe some dirt or some particle we're making a short circuit. You have to take the board out if you clean it with alcohol while connected to the battery you will fry the circuit.
Or maybe it had reset the computer chip..
I did it without removing the chip
You can add a [ momentary (Default ON) push switch], like the ones uses on the inside of older PC-s). If in the future the same problem persists you can disconnect temporarily via the switch without de-soldering!
I think Parkside is ahead of the game but needs a lot of software refinement!
Excellent Video👍!
I'm afraid that you don't have any idea what (levels) of current flows there...
No. He is speaking about the ic’s own supply only. 3.3V from regulator maybe.
@@renesolaire8319 yep, only need to cut power to IC to reset it
Friend you are very talented ... Congratulations on what you do !!!
Thank you my Friend🙏🙏🙏🤝🤝🤝
Hi do i understand correctly, that you just desolder and solder the PCB? and that cleaned the board?
And did reflow for all components
GRANDE 👏👏👏
OTTIMA riparazione 👍👍👍
I tried this as well but both my 4 ah battery pcb are dead i think can you already buy somewhere pcb only?
Super nice 👍
Die Reparatur ist super, ich habe nur nicht verstanden was eigentlich repariert wurde.
Was war der Fehler bei dem Akku
eigentlich hat er nur das board stromlos gemacht. Also der Akku konnte vorher nicht geladen werden.
Sometimes laptops get a frozen IO chip. Maybe this was similar and removing / replacing power reset it.
I have a 8Ah battery with faulty processor. 95% of the time the battery is dead. Than the board reboots for some reason, and than it functions for a short time, freezes again, and dead until the next reboot.
@Ercan, tonight, my 4Ah Smart battery failed to. What is the final solution to reset?
You can fix exactly everything 😯😯😯 very good job 👍👍👍
Thank you my Friend❤️🤝🤝🤝
genius is the only word
Интересно. Дано след рестарта да няма проблеми. Вероятно бмс електрониката е зациклила. Почистването на платката никога бе е излишно. Благодаря за интересното видео!
Преди няколко години се опитах да сменя клетките от батерия на лаптоп.
И тази батерия не тръгна повече.
За тази цел мисля, че трябва да се захранват със външни батерии🤔
@@ErCanEverything има брояч на цикъла на зареждане като в Makita, мисля така
@@ErCanEverything Там има защита, докато на батериите на инструментите няма. Ако чипа сметне, че има нещо нередно, тогава спира изхода, чрез транзисторите. За да се възстанови трябва да се програмира. Другият вариант е да свържеш новите клетки в паралел със старите и тогава да премахнеш старите (но не е гарантирано, че ще работи).
Program name
You actually only need to unsolder battery and solder back, it is only way to remove power from controller to reset it. Controller was bricked, as soon as charging indicator was not running i recognised this situation, I had same issue after failed bluetooth FMW update, it just bricked controller.
All you hat to do is to reset the cpu. Bridge two bottom holes next to CPU (J1) and it's done.
Which ones? There are four holes next to CPU.
Yes which ones?
Which ones? There are four holes
Wich ones?
If you have done this, please share. Thanks a lot
GOOD
Thanks🙏🤝🤝🤝
how much is thick the nichel strip? I ask this because I would like to know the maximum current supported.
It seems very strange to me that this battery can handle 100 amps even with a nickel strip of 0.2mm which can handle max 10-15 Amps *5(blocks of 21700)=50 Amps maximum load
Seems that whole DC 2132 of this Smart PAPS 208 A1 is somehow affected (some serial error in soldering or errors skipped on AOI inspection) as I just get one unit with this date code for repair with the same symptoms... ;-)
I have a similar batery with problems. It cannot be charged, the leds do not light when push the button and (important) U3 and R44 are overheating.
In the video you made these components are at min 2:18, near the P+ connection from the power connetor (and about one cm from the soldering tip from your video).
Do you have any suggestion for this problem?
Do you have the schematics of the battery?
Big like
Excelent vídeo . 👏👏👏
Do u have any vídeo with the soldering tin paste sucker ?
I use a standard solder sucker, but then I disconnected one by one, which is not in the video.
After unsoldering the board I cleaned them again with solder sucker.
It's working now but what is the real couse of this problem? I'm asking because I have the old 20v, 2ah battery and it is working as you shown - tools starts for a moment and stops. Charger can't charge it, either. All cells are in good condition and the voltage in proper range.
I didn't see any significant traces of solder paste, but I doubted it because when I touched certain elements with my finger, only then did the indicator light up. And I doubted it, and therefore I cleansed it.
Or get working from cleaning, or from restarting the BMS.
I think the issue was an flaw in firmware like in PC you need to restart it and will be fine. So this it what happened like Hard Reset.
@@ErCanEverything Със какво изми платката братле!!!!
@@specspeco3063 Със спирт, след това го измих и със вода
@@hackerice What do u think guys if I would add extra power supply into this thermistor? Like 20v 2amp touch for a few seconds this temperature sensor to flow electric power and warm it-increse resistance? Maybe this would reset PCB? Or maybe change thermistor for new one?
this is 3.3 voltage stabilizer that fails and kills the bt module on the way... sometimes it gets so far as to destroy the microprocessor but in most cases it is enough to replace the stabiliser and remove the bl module which will get burnt as first.
Good Job!!! 👌
Thank you my Friend🙏🤝🤝🤝
Super !!!! 👍👍👍
Bei meinem Akku war es so, das er fast ein jahr nicht benutzt wurde und danach sollte er eingesetzt werden. Es tat sich nichts. gesamtspannung 2,8Volt. Der wurde aufgeschraubt, Platine abgelötet und die einzelnen Zellen wurden aufgeladen zuerst mit wenig Strom so 40mA was dann langsam gesteugert wurde bis fast 5 Ampere je Zelle nacheinander. Jede Zelle wurde bis auf 4,1Volt aufgeladen. Akku eine Woche liegenlassen und noch mal getestet. Akkuzellen haben es überlebt!
Danach die Platine ausgelötet und kurz an 21,5 Volt angeschlossen. Danach die Platine mit Laborstrippen an den Akku angeschlossen. Die 3 LED`s gigen mal alle an bei dem Anschluss der letzten Stippe an Plus danach leuchtete die gelbe LED für 10 Sekunden und dann tat sich nichts mehr. Der Dipschalter zur Kontrolle der Spannung im Akku konnte man drücken ohne das es irgend eine Funktion sichtbar ergab.
Wer hat mehr Infos zur Elektronik von den 8Ampere Akkus?
👌 good job,new subscriber hier 😊.
Thank you my Friend🙏🤝🤝🤝
@@ErCanEverything 👌👌👌
I have a similar problem with PAP 20 B3,on the drill it starts and stops,charger is blinking red,the battery measure's 19.5,can a similar fix work?
Hi,
My battery worked after cleaning but this problem came again after some time. According to new information, U3 3.3V Voltage regulator and R44 20 Ohm resistor are causing this problem.
Thanks.. like your work very much...
HI@@ErCanEverything could you pls leave a link to the U3 3.3V Voltage regulator - with one i needet - thx a lot ..
Top
I have two batteries which died at the same time with same symptom and this didn't work for me. This blinking error could be a variety of things, and just removing the batteries and cleaning with alcohol might work for lucky few that can get away with just a board reset (which is basically what you did).
Happy New Year!
Great video, thank you! I can always learn from you.
I have 2 Smart PAPS 208 A1 batteries, the error is as follows. After charging, its charge decreases significantly in 3-4 days, even though it is not in use. When monitored on the application, the operating time is continuous, as if it were in use. What do you think?
🥂
That's why I prefer the classical ones. Not smart.
I have six of the old ones, and four smarts.
Three of the four smarts have problems.
None of the classical ones has any. They all work great.
The smart ones are VERY useful for the high power performance tools, because you can set the current and discharge limits. Those protect both the tool and the battery during heavy duty works. In every other case the "classic" ones are much better. :)
👏👏👏
Je peux utiliser de l'essence F ? à la place du Isopropyl alcohol ?
Hello and thanks for the video
How the exact same problems with a 4a smart battery, after having strained it with a performance immersion saw.
I disassembled everything, I try to power everything with a transformer from notebook to I disassembled everything, I try to power everything with a notebook transformer at about 21//23 v, but pcb doesn't work.maybe too little current?
I think it will work after replacing U3 and R44. They are located next to the positive terminal. But be very careful not to short when you solder them to the battery because it is very risky!
@@ErCanEverything thank you.
What are the u3 code and r44 value?
The resistor R44 is 200 ohms but I think U3 is some kind of voltage regulator for 3.3V or 5V
The Resistor of my two not working ones are visually demaged. Can anybody confirm that? In the past i noticed if i touch this region with the fingers a could get the Leds to work.
@@maxvanmilian yes... Read another comment 'thread' somewhere above this one
I search the pinout or datasheet for the ic hp201202, please any information can help me
Здравей , имам същият проблем с батерии на dewalt , дали ще мине номера и там с чистене и запояване?някакви идеи?
Nein
Es war 3,3V discconect reset main chip ist fix😢
Hello, I have an 8ah parkside battery and it is blocked from the application. pin code has been forgotten. Can it be solved somehow?
I have two smart aku 8ah battery. One is full empty and wont charge. Can i use method as you show on other video when i connect one battery to another and wait 10-30 min? Will this damage smart battery?
When is full emty, then connect in series 1 lamp H1, H7 or whatever you can find for safety charge.
@@ErCanEverything you mean i can connect full smart 8ah battery to "dead" 8 ah.. so positive to positive and negative to negative.. can i do whitout lightblub?
I do not recommend without a light bulb or any consumer if you do not know how much current will flow when charging the other battery.
If you have multimeter to measure the current and if it is not more than 5-6A there will be no problem.
Здравей, моята батерия е със същото състояние. Имам само двойно зарядно и като я сложа, лампите не мигат, стои все едно няма батерия на зарядното. Мога ли да я възбудя с друга 8 амперова и да се оправи или е нужно да почистя платката както ти показваш?
I did everything as in the video.When I put my finger on r46 board works. When I remove it does not work. The contact is good everywhere. What should I do?
I've got the exact same symptoms. Have you figured it out in the meantime?
Very interesting, what product did you use to clean the circuit board? Thank you.
Isopropyl Alcohol
The name of the application used, thank you
Lidl Home
I have the same problem. But I don't have such a power supply. Is the device necessary to save the battery? Do I have to loosen all solder joints? Or is it enough to bridge with another, fully charged battery?
If in variant 1 it does not work with external cables, then you can charge each cell separately without desoldering but with thin wires and be careful with the polarity!
Each cell can be charged with only 1 cell from the other 4V battery, not a total of 20V voltage!
Did you measure the cell voltages? measure to see how much their voltages are first.
@@ErCanEverything I can measure a full 20v at the contacts. I'll take the battery apart tomorrow and take a closer look.Thank you very much for the quick response. I'll report when I know more details.
Hello again. disassembled the battery. The cells are all at 4V. I haven't undone the solder joints yet. If the battery is fully charged, why is the board not responding? Do I need the 21V? What does it have to do with temperature? What should I do next?
This batteries are junk!!!i bought 3 units...after 1 year,only one is working...two of them are not charging anymore....bastards!!!chinesse junk!lidl is a shit hole!
Sometimes BMS needs restart!
Either its cleaning helped, or as you say it got better after a restart.
But when I touched with finger on certain elements, the indicator lit up
👍👍👍😍😍😍
Здравей
Имам същия проблем
Може ли телефон за връзка?
Hello!
Can you please tell me the value of the R44 resistor that burned out?
Thank you
The value is 20 ohms
@@ErCanEverything Thank you so much!
R44, Q12 and V3
Май рестарта помогна,BMS платката би трябвало да се е изключила след отделянето от батериите и изключване от лабораторния блок и да се активира при подаване на напрежение от зарядното,незнам при теб как проработи без този цикъл.Поздрави
Не видях съществени следи от спояваща паста, но се съмнявах, защото при докосване на определени елементи с пръст чак тогава светеше индикаторът. И се усъмних в това и затова го чистих.
Или се подобри от почистване или от рестартиране на BMS'а. Нямаше и студени спойки.
Почему не работала?
Просто почистить и обнулить ?
Hello! I have a problem with the 8Ah battery, it always discharges below 15 volts despite setting it in the application. Do you have any solution?
Hello!
I think the problem is in the voltage stabilizer U3 and R44
@@ErCanEverything Can you give me a hand to identify them?
@@ErCanEverything 4 of 10 cells have 0 volts
@@kiky2h U3 Regulator HT7133 -- 3,3V 30mA
R44 Rezistor CMS 1206 20ohm - 200 - 1/4w - 0.25watt
а със какво по точно почисти платката не е със контактен спрей със сигорност >?
Със изопропилов алкохол
Може и със най обикновенен спирт
Hey ercan, My friend! I have a 8Ah smart battery and My R14 resistor is blown... Do you know, where I can get a new one? Thanks! ❤
R14 or R44 ??
Hi man, the black and White cables in the bms where do they go? Do you desoldering them? In the video isn't clear
I use them to power the board from the Power Supply
@@ErCanEverything yes, but i'm talking about the wire on the board.
There Is two thin wire phisically soldered on the board. One wire is covered by black heat shrink tubing and the other wire Is naked.... They ending on battery pack...do you desoldering them or Simply cuting them?
@diopadreonnipotente4968 These are the wire to the temperature sensor, that is apparently thicked on the board and in contact to the battery block with thermal paste, look at 2:17 top of picture.
Własnie stało sie z moja to samo godzine temu :( możesz doradzic co zrobic bez takich sprzetów jak ty posiadasz. Pozdrawiam
In my case it was so.
I slightly moistened my finger to have conductivity and touched where the temperature sensor is visible to where the positive output of the battery is.
Then I press the button and it lights up.
@@ErCanEverything a mogl bys mi wskazac dokładnie to miejsce? Pozdrawiam
@@karolkarol3950 From the polishing terminal to where it says BAT3 C36 R55 C38 D7 D6 Q12 all this area. because I can't send you photos, or give me a link to draw you and send you the photo.
@@ErCanEverything Jesteś wielki!!!! pomogło!!! zadziałało!!!! Dzieki serdeczne przyjacielu ❤️
@@karolkarol3950 I'm glad I was able to help you🙏🤝🤝🤝
имам батерия на парксайд 20v 4ah,когато я сложа на зарядно започват да мигат и двата диода ? всички батерии вътре са със еднакъв волтаж? от какво може да е :(
Един приятел имаше 2 батерии със същия проблем, когато отворихме BMS на едната батерия беше клеасал (позеленял) и неможахме да го подкараме да работи.
А на другата, разпоихме BMS и след почистване със спирт и подсушаване се оправи
@@ErCanEverything Благодаря за отговора !
Io ho risolto pulendo si lo stampato ma senza dissaldarlo sono riuscito a resettarla toccando con il dito ed aiutandomi con due spezzoni di filo i due pin del connettore tra il positivo e quello vicino.
which specific contacts should be closed?
Ciao, mi puoi indicare con più precisione quali pin avresti messo in contatto fra loro? Grazie
Ciao, non ho ben capito...quindi , teoricamente, potrei resettarla senza smontarla , o no ?
Please share informations which Pin you bricked exactly
There ar 4 connectors on the battery. + and- are on the sides, but what are the 2 in the middle doing? Can i use this as a power source just by connecting +- but leaving the 2 in the middle unused? Thanks for any comments.
Two connectors in the middle are used for feedback. One is used by the charger and the other by the tool. It's no problem to use the terminals to power something. But the voltage should not drop below 16V because there is no low discharge protection when you use only the side ones. 🙂
@@ErCanEverything Thanks mate, highly appreciated! That would hav been my next question about low discharge protection. Actually this is a very nice nice battery pack for high drain DIY projects, looks like very good price/ quality ratio compared to Chinese online crap from aliexpress! Did i get it correctly, the low discharge protection is actually in each tool then? Or how is the feedback from the tool working?
@@XSAILOR65 The tool is hawe the low battery protection.
The T pin says to the tool when is low discharge, ant the tool is stoping.
@@Sim_Tiby OK, thanks. So the battery would proceed to feed but the tool sense the low voltage through the T pin and disconnect. 100 amp is huge for this size....
doesn't lock the bms chip?
#technicalmonirul ❤️❤️❤️
Моята показва че е заредена но в приложението пише 3% и когато я сложа на зарядното свети само зелената лампичка в приложението показва че се зарежда но седи на едни и същи проценти. Разпоих платката и я запоих отново но няма ефект.
I have the same issue after Firmwareupdate. The Battery is locked After Firmwareupdate and the Key is 1234. If you never use it before you will not „see“ this option in your App 😂
Come hai dissaldato la scheda? Con il solo saldatore non ci si riesce..
Anche la mia ha lo stesso problema, ma non riesco a dissaldare la scheda.
I unsoldered with a vacuum pump for tinol, but after a while the same problem appeared again and this happened after discharging the battery to half. try to charge with another 21V power supply
@@ErCanEverything Same for me. Battey still under warranty, but I want to understand. I have 4 smart batteries and two have this problem. On the first time I tried your procedure and didn't work, so I gave it back. On the second one, it was in perfect condition until I used it as a powerbank with the parkside usb adapter. It was showing red light, but voltage is actually 20.4 and now the check button doesn't work anymore. I'll try to put it in parallel with a full charged 8ah sister
Two problems in four batteries, it's not acceptable even for a cheap brand
Program name
So, you just clen it by isopropylalcohol and thats it... Ok..
Sir I change 18650 batteries from parkside drill and drill works for 1 second and stops ..then I have to take out batteries from drill and put them again to work for one second ..what do you think is th problem ?
Measure the cell voltages whether they are normal or at least all of them around 4V or charge the battery with an external power supply of 21.6 V so that bms can read the input current through it.
It is possible for the new bms to report a malfunction when the cells are disconnected.
Try this method if it will help you: ruclips.net/video/upJx5VWLtDc/видео.html
@@ErCanEverything battery is 18v ..can connect with 20v ? Also when I put battery in charger it’s blinking red and green light …not together alternately
18v is the nominal voltage of the batteries 3.6 - 3.7V x 5 = 18 -18.5V the maximum charging voltage is 4.2V x 5 cells = 21V
@@ErCanEverything thank you ❤️I’ll try to charge the battery with external power supply
What batery its inside ? Samsung..sony....
ruclips.net/video/y_3yFDpwFBk/видео.htmlsi=4Cf-O8jeIo7ONyxR 0:07
I used these batteries in this video and they have Parkside written on them.
The symptom is the same as in the video! Only with a "stupid" BMS 20V 2Ah battery How can I delete the error??? the cells are balanced, charged and at 20.5V. ???
A tünet ugynaz, mint a videóban! Csak "buta "BMS 20V 2Ah akkunál. Hogan tudom törölni a hibát??? a cellák kiegyenlítve , feltöltve, 20,5V-on. ???
Belirti videodakiyle aynı! Sadece "aptal" bir BMS 20V 2Ah batarya ile Hatayı nasıl silebilirim??? hücreler dengeli, şarjlı ve 20,5V'dadır. ???
Das Symptom ist das gleiche wie im Video! Nur mit einem „dummen“ BMS 20V 2Ah Batterry. Wie kann ich den Fehler löschen??? Die Zellen sind ausgeglichen, geladen und haben eine Spannung von 20,5 V. ???
He didn't fix anything. The fault will come back again.
fake
+
bljak video sta je poenta videa da slusamo muziku el kenjo
Poor parkside quality as usually...
it wasnt working because it had PIN lock in app
Are you spocer of a park side tools
Ercan Usta Hâyırlı Bayramlar. Sana bir konu hakkında danışmak istiyorum Ben genellikle einhell pxc 18v batarya alt yapısıyla çalışan ürünleri ve birazda parkside 20v alt yapısındaki ürünleri kullanıyorum. Bu bataryaları hem Einhell hem Parkside ürünlerinde dönüştürerek kulanmak istiyorum bu donusturuculeri fiyat performans olacak şekilde nasıl temin edebilirim en az 12 tane edinmem lazım. Tekrardan hâyırlı bayramlar