Thank you! As a mechanic I suspected this valve is bad! My pressure keeps building up causing relief leakage heater is working fine otherwise! After watching your video I'm convinced this is it! Now I'm going to replace it!
@@robertwadas You were right Bob! Only my tank just needed to be drained out. It is a very old but good system, and the tank has no rubber diaphragm inside it. I lived here over 20 years and never drained it, so it filled up completely. I now drain it out yearly and have to relieve the pressure a few times/days until it stabilizes. I never replaced the pressure valve. Good so far. Thanks Bob Chi-town!
@@stevesmentkowski7789 I replace mine ith a one with a diaphram.. 39.99 2 small sections of pipe... Plus it dowes not have to be above the system,... I T'd it odd where the relief valve is piped in... I also added a shut off there in case I needed to change the tank.
I absolutely agree. All the newer ones that I have dealt with have them. Good luck at getting a retro on that. Thanks for all the good info. Hope to hear from you again. GFM
nice video! I just ordered a replacement Bell & Gossett 110192LF FB-38, until then I'm just lifting up that lever to fill the tank slow, and the extra water is going out the overfill pipe.
Very nice video. Son was asked to work on a boiler that was sitting dormant for 5 years. He refused because the owner thought the system would fire right up with out much effort or parts. He told owner same thing about replacing old parts. Son tells me the owner was upset but hey, what to do if people don't want to spend the money.
Certainly, the boiler could have numerous failures after sitting for that long. Its kind of in for a penny, in for a pound. These things can snowball more than any other type of heat. Your son is right. GFM
It took me 9 years to figure out I had one of these feeding my boiler. Bucket in the floor catching the blow off just lived with it. Never thought about a pressure regulator and I deal with regulators servicing fuel injection so you would think I'd know that sort of thing.
@@wildman8601 actually I had service guys a few times doing filters and all that getting ready for winter and when asked they all say the same thing its an old system it needs to be replaced. It's not old it was replaced right before I got the house only 15 years old. Both times it was serviced by a "professional" they left with fuel leaking. The first guy stripped a bolt on that filter on the pump and I fixed it by drilling and tapping it for a new stud with nut and the second guy damaged the stud I installed by cross threading the nut on the stud and just left it leaking. I've been doing all the services myself since then can't pay people to do things right this world is so pathetic. It works fine now it's cheaper to just learn yourself as you go beats paying 120 bucks an hour for subpar work.
The only way a system can be waterlogged with a bladder tank is if the bladder has burst. Probably not your problem. If the pressure reducing valve is leaking by, it will cause your problem. I agree the reducing valve should be replaced. And yes, the relief valve should be replaced. Many times when I have replaced a reducing valve, the relief valve continued to weep. opening it to blow out dirt did not help. Hope this helps. GFM
I have not had a lot of problems with the Watts valve but as you say, I have not seen a lot of long term use. I think you will have problems with any valve that does not open often. I have actually had better luck with valves that were installed on systems with a small leak. Any thing that regulates water seems to have a high failure rate. I dont have any real solution. Thanks for the comment. GFM
The valve should have relieved at 30#. So yes replace. I assume the system either has a bladder tank or if its an expansion tank, it has been drained. GFM
Ours is installed vertically instead of horizontally, which is incorrect. I found out when changing to a new one and read the directions (first time for everything!). Make sure your reducing valve was installed correctly to begin with.
I have a 1 story,last year the psi was between 10-15,this year my husband took the boiler apart and cleaned it,and changed the oil filter..Then the psi was at 45,and the temp got up to 180..It blew water all over and wouldn't relight.Once it dried the psi stayed at 30,and the temp isn't going above 140..it seems to be working,but I should probably get the valve changed anyway.I think it's been there since 1987.
I started having issues with my system overpressuring. The regulator was about the age you speak of, 5-7 years old. SO I pulled it out, a Honeywell FM450. I opened it up, didn't look bad, cleaned it out and put in back in, and yes it leaks, a dribble of water passes through the closed valve. So I bought the latest replacement, a Honeywell VF06. Got it in and it does the same thing, a new regulator! There is a Backflow Preventer, BP900, connected to it up stream. Looking at that it appear corroded and jabbed open. SO I returned the new regulator as defective and bought a new assembly, Honeywell FM911. Put it in and it seemed to work at first, with the outlet open, regulator set to zero, applied inlet pressure and no leak. Great right?......BUT NO ! After connecting up the boiler side the symptom came back. Overnight the pressure went from 12 to 30 psi. What am I missing here? Frustrated in Colorado
Hello grayfurnaceman Your video's are easy to follow and very informative (to the point) so it with great resultants that i ask this question. if all things are where they should be in regards to pressure. Do i even have to replace this regulator? can't i just shut water feed off? my water is terrible, And it makes me pretty mad that i have to replace the valve a lot over the years. @ 60 bucks a pop. they should make a rebuild kit for these things. thanks in advance a D.I.Y.
If you have no bleeders or the system has no air in it and no leaks, you can just shut the water off. The valve is there so you do not have to manage the pressure. GFM
The water pressure on my boiler is registering at about 30 psi, or slightly higher. This causes my pressure relief valve to blow off water. I installed a new expansion tank with a bladder. It doesn't seem to be waterlogged. I suspect it could be the pressure reducing valve. I'm going to replace it to see if this corrects the problem. Also, the pressure relief valve should need replacing as well. Do you agree?
I just ordered a new WATTS Brass & Tubular 1156F boil feed regulator and a new Watts 1/2" 9D-M3 Dual Check Valve w/Intermediate Atmosph. Vent, Backflow Preventer. It's the preventer that is leaking, but I've had issues over the years where the regulator is over pressurizing the system. I usually can fix that just by snapping the little top handle that opens the valve to allow water through, the snaps shut. Doing that a few times seems to clear out any calcification buildup. But when I get the new parts and install them, if all is well, I'm curious if it's even possible to actually fix the regulator by opening it up (taking the 2 halves apart) and cleaning up any gunk inside. Is that possible with the 1156F feeder? When I take apart, would I expect things to go flying off into the 9th dimension? Ideas?
Enjoy your videos! Can I remove the black plastic cap and clean the inside trap without having to remove the valve from the pipes ? I would assume just turn off the boiler, shut the water off and proceed with the cleaning. Thanks in advance.
Well, I have never heard that one. How would you deal with possible bleed issues? Could you be more specific. Could you tell me what make and model you found that on? Thanks for the comment. GFM
Question: At the end of the cold season last year, I started to see some sporadic water leakage. My boiler would run fine for several days, and then I would have water on the floor. I had the pressure relief valve replaced and now that it has gotten cold again and I'm running the boiler, I am still having the sporadic leakage. Same thing, it runs fine for several days and then I see water on the floor. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I have a bell and gossett reducing valve that is quite old and needs replaced. but the model # says b-8 and cant cross reference it. Any idea what the new part number would be. Thanks.
Have a blader expansion tank. The pressure was set at approx 15lb when cold. Could not get pressure up to 3 floor. Increased pressure on reducing valve to bleed air out of radiator. Got heat going, but now boiler pressure running approx 25lb. Don't believe reducing valve is issue. Should I drain off some water to match expansion tank pressure, and adjust reducing valve pressure to match cold water pressure 15lb. Not sure if expansion tank will be ok at 25lb pressure setting. What would u recommend setting boiler pressure. I was thinking 20psi hot. Please let me know. Thanks.
Long story but I will be as brief as possible. Several years ago, I had the fill valve and expansion tank replaced on my old Hydrotherm HC-125. The pressure in the system after the repair got too high and the safety valve blew. Well, like a fool, I let some air out of the expansion tank. Next, I had the guy come back out and he adjusted the fill valve which fixed the problem. It has worked ok over the last several years. However, I have read that the pressure when the system is cold versus hot should not fluctuate much. My pressure probably fluctuates 10 psi. Is that ok? Also, should I attempt to recharge the tank or replace it since I mucked it up? Thank you. Great videos.
The question here is do you have and expansion tank or a bladder tank? If its a bladder, the pressure should be set to factory specs. If its an expansion tank (located above the boiler), the water needs to be drained out every year. Hope this helps. GFM
grayfurnaceman Yes, that helps. It is a bladder tank, an Amtrol 15 and when I went to pexsupply.com, I utilized their expansion tank calculator and the Amtrol 30 is the proper unit for my 125,000 btu boiler. So, I am going to install the larger tank and go ahead and mount it vertically versus the current horizontal configuration. It will be a learning experience. Thank you. I will subscribe.
Probably not. The 2 most common failures are leaking by of the valve (increased pressure) and no flow at all. Adjusting the valve usually will not help. You can shut off the manual valve if it is overfeeding. Just check the pressure daily. GFM
Its right in the BNG operating instructions not to leave the water turned on if you left the water turned on and the system developed the leak the homeowner would never know this is the reason why
There is a loud humming sound that is coming from the reducing valve. Started several days ago. This is a 4 zone system and the top level hasn't worked all winter. If I slightly life the reducing valve the hissing/humming sounds goes away temporarily. Is it a problem that I lift it? Seems like it should do so on its on. Any idea what's going on?
If you read the manufacturer's instructions the water should never be left on to the valve or system most people in the HVAC trade do not understand hydronic systems
@@grayfurnaceman ok so I am still waiting for my regulator from Amazon. Water input valve has been shut off for a few days. I just noticed that pressure went over 30psi since it spit out. What pressure should I read when the water cools down?
Had to replace rad vavles,now after filling the system pressure went really high like 50#,do you think it could be the fill valve is stuck open? last week it was fine had to drain it to fix a leak, now its high pressure. Thank you
What do you recommend as a suitable replacement? I know Watts makes a reducing valve with a fast fill lever on it, I've installed a few of those but too early to tell the longevity of them. Any suggestions on who makes a good reducing valve?
Hey Brother I am not sure if you will see this comment, yet I have a question you might have an answer to. I have a taco feed valve which fills my boiler. I know this allows water to enter the boiler if there is a pressure drop. However does this valve also act as a check valve to keep hot water from bleeding back into the cold side? I have a peerless boiler and the tankless coil went bad. I first noticed a problem when my cold water pipes were becoming hot. I then removed the tankless coil from the boiler and just put a blank cover on. However now when I start the system, my cold water is now hot. Seems to me that the taco feed valve should act as a check valve to keep this from happening, yet I might not be correct.
It is not a check valve. In fact, water will feed from the boiler to domestic water if the pressure is higher in the boiler. The only way to stop that is with a back flow preventer. Your problem may not have anything to do with the boiler. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you for the quick reply. Any idea what might be causing the hot water from the boiler to push past the taco valve and enter the cold water supply side? I never had a backflow preventer on it before and it has worked well. Just not sure what has happened. My tankless coil definetly had a hole in it. Wonder what went out first to cause what damage. Any suggestions.
Is it normal for a electric motor on a spring and a gas sensor and a wireless receiver to be installed on a natural gas line in on one of these valves inside a house behind things were you cant see it? Cause when I was experimenting with a engine design I made it blew off the valve with the spring thats when I saw it.
Mine looks very similar to that but i got a red one. It doesn't work. I'm trying to purge the air out of the pipes. it does nothing when i lift up and down. broke?
I would assume you tighten clockwise to increase pressure? There was a mishap with our system when they accidentally cut a line in the basement while working on other plumbing and I don't know what the contractor did. I'm assuming he messed with the reducing valve. The nut is completely loose. How difficult should it be to tighten to allow water through? It seems rather hard to turn and I don't know how hard to try.
grayfurnaceman Replaced the reducing and relief valves like you mentioned. They are both old and came as a unit. System finally filled and we have pressure to the second floor. Was at 18psi then turned on the heat and it went to 30 and relief valve kicked in. Would that be an indication our expansion tank is full of water?
Bell & Gossett 110195 - LF-#7 Pressure Reducing Valve - I can not figure out how to use a fill feature on this device- Maybe this does not have a fill feature?
12# will work for 1 story and a basement. 18# for 2 story and basement. If you have 30# and the relief has not opened, you either have a 3 story with a 45# relief or the relief is not working. It should start weeping at 25#. Be sure it works!! Dangerous. GFM
Hi, the pressure relief valve keeps going off. Lots of water then steam. I've replaced the expansion tank, the pressure regulator, the circulation pump, and the pressure relief valve. Out of options and too the point of frustration. Any idea why the pressure relief valve keeps going off?
Had no heat, boiler pump 007 had stopped. Also had some Water on the floor from pressure relief pipe. I opened the bottom on my water pressure regulator and the screen was missing part of it. The water had eaten it away after 13 years. I tapped my 007 and removed the screen and now everything is working fine. Is it possible that the screen could of traveled to my pump?
So I'm having bit problems with my system over pressurizing and have a hunch it is this valve however to test it. I shut the water off from the city supply and released some pressure from the system is took a few quarts of water out to get press back to around 12psi. And the pressure continued to rise back up to over 30psi and of course the press relief valve opens at this point. Did this prosecutor 3 time with same results. Any ideas on why psi continues to rise? Expansion tank maybe?
Why was a water softener place on the hot water of (somebody house) only and not all the cold. The cold water for the fridge is not soften and every cold tap, I find that weird. Please explain. were they being cheap.
Putting a water softener before a heating appliance will save the appliance from mineral deposits, when you heat water it loses its heavy minerals, the quicker you heat it the more they drop out. these make the burner less eficiant since what ends up inside the appliance is basically sand, and it also can clog outlets in extreme cases. You dont want softened water to any tap that a person might drink from, you dont want to drink softened water becasue water is the universal solvent and it must re gain its minerals if they are depleted and in the case of softened water going to a tap the water will re gain its minerals from leatching them out of YOU.. -Master Redseal plumber and Gasfitter for 20 years. :)
Would over-feed cause the pressure relief to leak? On my furnace i noticed the pressure relief starts leaking when it is brought up to temp. I replaced the expansion tank. Same problem. Just replaced the valve. Still leaking. Not sure where to go from here..you think it might be the prv? Thanx man
John Lewis Many times when the system has not fed water for a long time and then does, the reducing valve will not shut off. There are other possibilities like the expansion tank is too small. Hope this helps. GFM
Hi Grayfurnaceman! I enjoyed your video. I have this exact same model valve (a contractor just installed it 4 days ago). I awoke this morning to find water on the floor beside the boiler (the pressure relief valve in action). The boiler's pressure gauge showed 30psi and the temp was 140F. I turned the thermostat down and allowed everything to cool during the day. This evening (with the water temp below 60F), I closed off the systems main water feed valve, bled the pressure down to 10psi. and then re-opened the main water valve. Within about 10 or 20 seconds, without adding heat to the system, the pressure gauge showed 20psi. Isn't the function of this "pressure reducing valve' to keep the pressure at or below 12psi? Or, am I thinking about this wrong? It seems to me like they've installed a defective pressure reducing valve but I honestly don't claim to know very much about this stuff. Am I on the right track? Sincere thanks! -Rob
+oatbean What is happening here is the heating of the boiler expands the water and it pops the relief valve. To avoid this, there is either a bladder tank or an expansion tank. The bladder tank is a can located on the piping about 3 to 5 gallons. There is a tire type valve on one end. If you press the valve and water comes out, the bladder is burst. If you have an expansion tank, it will be located in the joists above the boiler. It could be water logged. Hope this helps. GFM
Hi grayfurnaceman! Thanks for the reply... but my larger question is... If there is no heat would it be possible for a functioning PRValve (which is preset to 12 psi) to be above 12 psi when there is NO heat present? I assume not (and I don't claim to know), but I'm just trying to understand for argument sake. [it was cold when I opened the main valve and the gauge went up from 10 to 20 lbs.] The contractors are returning in the morning and if they try to sell me a different repair option I would like to keep them focused on this, if I have not assumed incorrectly. Again many thanks for your time! Rob p.s. my expansion tank is one floor up... in the finished attic. It sounds pretty empty when I knock on it (except for the top 1/4 which sounds a bit more dense.
If a tiny little amount of water comes out, and then air, is that typically okay? I'm trying to test my system to see If one of my two expansions tanks is bad, or if it's this valve. I have a small expansion tank next to the incoming water main, and then one down stream after the boiler.
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks grayfurnaceman, Our regulator is at least 28 years old. I backed off the hex lock nut and I was surprised that the top screw easily moved in both directions. I tightened it to increase the pressure 10 lbs and it's held at 10 lbs for a week now. Thank you.
+Grant Kozy Look for a domestic water connection. If the valve is off turn it on. If it is on, the regulating valve (downstream of the manual) has probably failed. You can try adjusting the valve but it will probably no work. Hope this helps. GFM
+grayfurnaceman I made sure all the water valves were on. I lifted the reducing valve to the fill position this appeared to add water and pressurize the boiler. I think I solved the problem
It sounds like the valve is feeding. It should feed up to the set pressure, then stop. Lifting the bail bypasses the reduction feature of the valve and if left up it will overpressure the boiler and the relief valve will open. Shut off the domestic water supply valve upstream of the reducing valve. If the humming stops, the valve is feeding. If so, I would be looking for a leak in the system. The pressure should be 13# for 1 story and 18# for 2. My bet is the valve is trying to open, but the screen on the inlet is plugged. But look for a leak in one of the lower levels. Either way, the valve needs to be replaced. Hope this helps GFM
I seldom adjust these valves. Adjusting a valve after it has been in operation for several years will usually result in no change in pressure or it will leak by and overpressure the boiler. If you must know, loosen then nut on top, turn then screw clockwise to increase pressure. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman I did that last night and my boiler stopped making gurggling noise. My valve was installed 20 years ago... I put on a new compression tank that had 16 psi while the valve was 12 PSI.
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Honestly, i cant tell you how much i appreciate the simplicity and focus of this video. No stupid music. No bad jokes. Just the facts. Thanks!!!!
Thank you! As a mechanic I suspected this valve is bad! My pressure keeps building up causing relief leakage heater is working fine otherwise! After watching your video I'm convinced this is it! Now I'm going to replace it!
I would bet it is your expansion tank... Simple way to check.. fill boiler and turn off water supply and see if the valve pops off
@@robertwadas You were right Bob! Only my tank just needed to be drained out. It is a very old but good system, and the tank has no rubber diaphragm inside it. I lived here over 20 years and never drained it, so it filled up completely. I now drain it out yearly and have to relieve the pressure a few times/days until it stabilizes. I never replaced the pressure valve. Good so far. Thanks Bob Chi-town!
@@stevesmentkowski7789 I replace mine ith a one with a diaphram.. 39.99 2 small sections of pipe... Plus it dowes not have to be above the system,... I T'd it odd where the relief valve is piped in... I also added a shut off there in case I needed to change the tank.
@@robertwadas Thanks for the info will keep that in mine.
I absolutely agree. All the newer ones that I have dealt with have them. Good luck at getting a retro on that. Thanks for all the good info. Hope to hear from you again.
GFM
nice video!
I just ordered a replacement Bell & Gossett 110192LF FB-38, until then I'm just lifting up that lever to fill the tank slow, and the extra water is going out the overfill pipe.
I will accept that. Probably the best way to avoid constant recharging of the boiler if there is a leak. Thanks.
GFM
Very nice video. Son was asked to work on a boiler that was sitting dormant for 5 years. He refused because the owner thought the system would fire right up with out much effort or parts. He told owner same thing about replacing old parts. Son tells me the owner was upset but hey, what to do if people don't want to spend the money.
Certainly, the boiler could have numerous failures after sitting for that long. Its kind of in for a penny, in for a pound. These things can snowball more than any other type of heat. Your son is right.
GFM
It took me 9 years to figure out I had one of these feeding my boiler. Bucket in the floor catching the blow off just lived with it. Never thought about a pressure regulator and I deal with regulators servicing fuel injection so you would think I'd know that sort of thing.
It is most likely tour expansion (compression) tank. 90% of the time.
na u were just too cheap to pay a tech to fix your situation 😂
@@wildman8601 actually I had service guys a few times doing filters and all that getting ready for winter and when asked they all say the same thing its an old system it needs to be replaced. It's not old it was replaced right before I got the house only 15 years old. Both times it was serviced by a "professional" they left with fuel leaking. The first guy stripped a bolt on that filter on the pump and I fixed it by drilling and tapping it for a new stud with nut and the second guy damaged the stud I installed by cross threading the nut on the stud and just left it leaking. I've been doing all the services myself since then can't pay people to do things right this world is so pathetic. It works fine now it's cheaper to just learn yourself as you go beats paying 120 bucks an hour for subpar work.
The only way a system can be waterlogged with a bladder tank is if the bladder has burst. Probably not your problem. If the pressure reducing valve is leaking by, it will cause your problem. I agree the reducing valve should be replaced. And yes, the relief valve should be replaced. Many times when I have replaced a reducing valve, the relief valve continued to weep. opening it to blow out dirt did not help. Hope this helps.
GFM
I have not had a lot of problems with the Watts valve but as you say, I have not seen a lot of long term use. I think you will have problems with any valve that does not open often. I have actually had better luck with valves that were installed on systems with a small leak. Any thing that regulates water seems to have a high failure rate. I dont have any real solution. Thanks for the comment.
GFM
Good advice. Mine is 21 years old and my pressure is 22 cold. Sucker is coming out.
The valve should have relieved at 30#. So yes replace. I assume the system either has a bladder tank or if its an expansion tank, it has been drained.
GFM
Thanks, exactly the problem I had! Replacing valve today.
Excellent Video. Thank you sir!
I'm a big fan of your videos I two am a grey furnaceman a lot of good basic information in your videos though and to the point Thanks
you are a godsend.
Thank you for this video (and the one how it works!)
Glad it helped.
GFM
Ours is installed vertically instead of horizontally, which is incorrect. I found out when changing to a new one and read the directions (first time for everything!). Make sure your reducing valve was installed correctly to begin with.
Good thoughts.
GFM
I have a 1 story,last year the psi was between 10-15,this year my husband took the boiler apart and cleaned it,and changed the oil filter..Then the psi was at 45,and the temp got up to 180..It blew water all over and wouldn't relight.Once it dried the psi stayed at 30,and the temp isn't going above 140..it seems to be working,but I should probably get the valve changed anyway.I think it's been there since 1987.
I started having issues with my system overpressuring. The regulator was about the age you speak of, 5-7 years old. SO I pulled it out, a Honeywell FM450. I opened it up, didn't look bad, cleaned it out and put in back in, and yes it leaks, a dribble of water passes through the closed valve. So I bought the latest replacement, a Honeywell VF06. Got it in and it does the same thing, a new regulator!
There is a Backflow Preventer, BP900, connected to it up stream. Looking at that it appear corroded and jabbed open. SO I returned the new regulator as defective and bought a new assembly, Honeywell FM911. Put it in and it seemed to work at first, with the outlet open, regulator set to zero, applied inlet pressure and no leak. Great right?......BUT NO ! After connecting up the boiler side the symptom came back. Overnight the pressure went from 12 to 30 psi.
What am I missing here?
Frustrated in Colorado
Expansion tank? have you checked it to see that it is not water logged? if it is then when the water heats it will expand and gain pressure.
MrDmadness , yes. tank work er fine and emptied. turned out to be a ball valve had a tiny leak through.
Hello grayfurnaceman Your video's are easy to follow and very informative (to the point) so it with great resultants that i ask this question. if all things are where they should be in regards to pressure. Do i even have to replace this regulator? can't i just shut water feed off? my water is terrible, And it makes me pretty mad that i have to replace the valve a lot over the years. @ 60 bucks a pop. they should make a rebuild kit for these things. thanks in advance a D.I.Y.
If you have no bleeders or the system has no air in it and no leaks, you can just shut the water off. The valve is there so you do not have to manage the pressure.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thank you
Excellent video clear
My man thank you so much! You are so helpful and I hope you know it!
BINGO! This video helped me diagnose my problem. Thank you.
Welcome
GFM
The water pressure on my boiler is registering at about 30 psi, or slightly higher. This causes my pressure relief valve to blow off water. I installed a new expansion tank with a bladder. It doesn't seem to be waterlogged. I suspect it could be the pressure reducing valve. I'm going to replace it to see if this corrects the problem. Also, the pressure relief valve should need replacing as well. Do you agree?
I just ordered a new WATTS Brass & Tubular 1156F boil feed regulator and a new
Watts 1/2" 9D-M3 Dual Check Valve w/Intermediate Atmosph. Vent, Backflow Preventer.
It's the preventer that is leaking, but I've had issues over the years where the regulator is over pressurizing the system.
I usually can fix that just by snapping the little top handle that opens the valve to allow water through, the snaps shut.
Doing that a few times seems to clear out any calcification buildup.
But when I get the new parts and install them, if all is well, I'm curious if it's even possible to actually fix the regulator by opening it up (taking the 2 halves apart) and cleaning up any gunk inside.
Is that possible with the 1156F feeder?
When I take apart, would I expect things to go flying off into the 9th dimension?
Ideas?
I have not been successful repairing these valves.
GFM
THANK YOU!
Enjoy your videos! Can I remove the black plastic cap and clean the inside trap without having to remove the valve from the pipes ? I would assume just turn off the boiler, shut the water off and proceed with the cleaning. Thanks in advance.
Unless you have valves on both side of the red valve, no. The pressure side has domestic pressure and the boiler side has the boiler pressure.
GFM
Well, I have never heard that one. How would you deal with possible bleed issues? Could you be more specific. Could you tell me what make and model you found that on? Thanks for the comment.
GFM
this guy is vet!!
Question: At the end of the cold season last year, I started to see some sporadic water leakage. My boiler would run fine for several days, and then I would have water on the floor. I had the pressure relief valve replaced and now that it has gotten cold again and I'm running the boiler, I am still having the sporadic leakage. Same thing, it runs fine for several days and then I see water on the floor. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I have a bell and gossett reducing valve that is quite old and needs replaced. but the model # says b-8 and cant cross reference it. Any idea what the new part number would be. Thanks.
If its a B-8 its really old. Try an FB-38
@@grayfurnaceman thank will be getting one tomorrow.
Great video.
Is there a difference between a B&G FB 38 and a B&G FB 8 or better yet can a FB 38 be used as a replacement for a FB 8?
TFS
The FB 8 is an older version of the FB 38. I believe the valve is identical.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you very much sir. I will be picking one up as the quick fill is no longer working on my furnace.
Have a blader expansion tank. The pressure was set at approx 15lb when cold. Could not get pressure up to 3 floor. Increased pressure on reducing valve to bleed air out of radiator. Got heat going, but now boiler pressure running approx 25lb. Don't believe reducing valve is issue. Should I drain off some water to match expansion tank pressure, and adjust reducing valve pressure to match cold water pressure 15lb. Not sure if expansion tank will be ok at 25lb pressure setting. What would u recommend setting boiler pressure. I was thinking 20psi hot. Please let me know. Thanks.
The 20# hot is ok. 15# is not enough. 25# could start the relief valve weeping. Reset the reducing valve to the 20# number.
GFM
Long story but I will be as brief as possible. Several years ago, I had the fill valve and expansion tank replaced on my old Hydrotherm HC-125. The pressure in the system after the repair got too high and the safety valve blew. Well, like a fool, I let some air out of the expansion tank. Next, I had the guy come back out and he adjusted the fill valve which fixed the problem. It has worked ok over the last several years. However, I have read that the pressure when the system is cold versus hot should not fluctuate much. My pressure probably fluctuates 10 psi. Is that ok? Also, should I attempt to recharge the tank or replace it since I mucked it up? Thank you. Great videos.
The question here is do you have and expansion tank or a bladder tank? If its a bladder, the pressure should be set to factory specs. If its an expansion tank (located above the boiler), the water needs to be drained out every year. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Yes, that helps. It is a bladder tank, an Amtrol 15 and when I went to pexsupply.com, I utilized their expansion tank calculator and the Amtrol 30 is the proper unit for my 125,000 btu boiler. So, I am going to install the larger tank and go ahead and mount it vertically versus the current horizontal configuration. It will be a learning experience. Thank you. I will subscribe.
bg147 The bleed will be an experience.
GFM
Hmmm, maybe I should hire someone.
bg147 I never argue with someone that wants to use a professional.
GFM
Hello. I have yet to replace the watts pressure reducing valve. Is it possible to still lower the pressure on it until its replacement arrive?
Probably not. The 2 most common failures are leaking by of the valve (increased pressure) and no flow at all. Adjusting the valve usually will not help.
You can shut off the manual valve if it is overfeeding. Just check the pressure daily.
GFM
Its right in the BNG operating instructions not to leave the water turned on if you left the water turned on and the system developed the leak the homeowner would never know this is the reason why
There is a loud humming sound that is coming from the reducing valve. Started several days ago. This is a 4 zone system and the top level hasn't worked all winter. If I slightly life the reducing valve the hissing/humming sounds goes away temporarily. Is it a problem that I lift it? Seems like it should do so on its on. Any idea what's going on?
If you read the manufacturer's instructions the water should never be left on to the valve or system most people in the HVAC trade do not understand hydronic systems
Like these brass feed valves, adds to my mongo pile🤩
Replaced the Xtrol and pressure release valve. Pressure goes up to about 35-40 psi ans spills out. Bad regulator?
This is almost certainly the reducing valve. If you shut off the hand valve (if there is one) for the supply water, the rise should stop.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman yes it does stop. I just ordered a new regulator. Thank you
@@rotorway133 You got it.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman ok so I am still waiting for my regulator from Amazon. Water input valve has been shut off for a few days. I just noticed that pressure went over 30psi since it spit out. What pressure should I read when the water cools down?
I have the same valve it works holding back pressure (about 14 PSI) but when I lift the valve to purge my lines, it wont increase pressure.
The valve has failed.
GFM
Doh! mine is broken too!!!
Had to replace rad vavles,now after filling the system pressure went really high like 50#,do you think it could be the fill valve is stuck open? last week it was fine had to drain it to fix a leak, now its high pressure. Thank you
The valve has probably just failed. Its pretty common.
GFM
What do you recommend as a suitable replacement? I know Watts makes a reducing valve with a fast fill lever on it, I've installed a few of those but too early to tell the longevity of them. Any suggestions on who makes a good reducing valve?
Welcome to economics.
GFM
Hey Brother I am not sure if you will see this comment, yet I have a question you might have an answer to. I have a taco feed valve which fills my boiler. I know this allows water to enter the boiler if there is a pressure drop. However does this valve also act as a check valve to keep hot water from bleeding back into the cold side?
I have a peerless boiler and the tankless coil went bad. I first noticed a problem when my cold water pipes were becoming hot. I then removed the tankless coil from the boiler and just put a blank cover on. However now when I start the system, my cold water is now hot. Seems to me that the taco feed valve should act as a check valve to keep this from happening, yet I might not be correct.
It is not a check valve. In fact, water will feed from the boiler to domestic water if the pressure is higher in the boiler. The only way to stop that is with a back flow preventer.
Your problem may not have anything to do with the boiler.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you for the quick reply. Any idea what might be causing the hot water from the boiler to push past the taco valve and enter the cold water supply side? I never had a backflow preventer on it before and it has worked well. Just not sure what has happened. My tankless coil definetly had a hole in it. Wonder what went out first to cause what damage. Any suggestions.
@@TransTurbine Have you been able to follow the hot water back to the red valve?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman What do you mean by the red valve?
@@TransTurbine Reducing valve
GFM
Is it normal for a electric motor on a spring and a gas sensor and a wireless receiver to be installed on a natural gas line in on one of these valves inside a house behind things were you cant see it? Cause when I was experimenting with a engine design I made it blew off the valve with the spring thats when I saw it.
Beats me.
GFM
Mine looks very similar to that but i got a red one. It doesn't work. I'm trying to purge the air out of the pipes. it does nothing when i lift up and down. broke?
Broke. Replace it.
Merry Christmas
GFM
I would assume you tighten clockwise to increase pressure? There was a mishap with our system when they accidentally cut a line in the basement while working on other plumbing and I don't know what the contractor did. I'm assuming he messed with the reducing valve. The nut is completely loose. How difficult should it be to tighten to allow water through? It seems rather hard to turn and I don't know how hard to try.
Clockwise to increase pressure. However, many times, if the valve is old, they just stop working. You have to replace the valve.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Replaced the reducing and relief valves like you mentioned. They are both old and came as a unit. System finally filled and we have pressure to the second floor. Was at 18psi then turned on the heat and it went to 30 and relief valve kicked in. Would that be an indication our expansion tank is full of water?
Bell & Gossett 110195 - LF-#7 Pressure Reducing Valve - I can not figure out how to use a fill feature on this device- Maybe this does not have a fill feature?
12# will work for 1 story and a basement. 18# for 2 story and basement. If you have 30# and the relief has not opened, you either have a 3 story with a 45# relief or the relief is not working. It should start weeping at 25#. Be sure it works!! Dangerous.
GFM
Hi, the pressure relief valve keeps going off. Lots of water then steam. I've replaced the expansion tank, the pressure regulator, the circulation pump, and the pressure relief valve. Out of options and too the point of frustration. Any idea why the pressure relief valve keeps going off?
Maricela HELA I am assuming this is a hot water boiler. Is the high temp limit stuck closed?
GFM
Had no heat, boiler pump 007 had stopped. Also had some Water on the floor from pressure relief pipe. I opened the bottom on my water pressure regulator and the screen was missing part of it. The water had eaten it away after 13 years. I tapped my 007 and removed the screen and now everything is working fine. Is it possible that the screen could of traveled to my pump?
Probably not with the screen. The pump is probably failing.
GFM
So I'm having bit problems with my system over pressurizing and have a hunch it is this valve however to test it. I shut the water off from the city supply and released some pressure from the system is took a few quarts of water out to get press back to around 12psi. And the pressure continued to rise back up to over 30psi and of course the press relief valve opens at this point. Did this prosecutor 3 time with same results. Any ideas on why psi continues to rise? Expansion tank maybe?
+dmmflys If there is a bladder tank, tap the side. If it sounds full of water, it has burst. Hope this helps.
GFM
Why was a water softener place on the hot water of (somebody house) only and not all the cold. The cold water for the fridge is not soften and every cold tap, I find that weird. Please explain. were they being cheap.
+Luis Diaz Beats me. I am not a water tech. Just furnace repairman.
GFM
Putting a water softener before a heating appliance will save the appliance from mineral deposits, when you heat water it loses its heavy minerals, the quicker you heat it the more they drop out. these make the burner less eficiant since what ends up inside the appliance is basically sand, and it also can clog outlets in extreme cases. You dont want softened water to any tap that a person might drink from, you dont want to drink softened water becasue water is the universal solvent and it must re gain its minerals if they are depleted and in the case of softened water going to a tap the water will re gain its minerals from leatching them out of YOU.. -Master Redseal plumber and Gasfitter for 20 years. :)
Would over-feed cause the pressure relief to leak? On my furnace i noticed the pressure relief starts leaking when it is brought up to temp. I replaced the expansion tank. Same problem. Just replaced the valve. Still leaking. Not sure where to go from here..you think it might be the prv? Thanx man
John Lewis Many times when the system has not fed water for a long time and then does, the reducing valve will not shut off. There are other possibilities like the expansion tank is too small. Hope this helps.
GFM
Can Hard water plug these Valves UP??!! BTW how do i get the Pressure SPECS for my Hot Water /oil burnersystem ????
Do you test and treat boiler water for things like Ph, hardness etc. and add chemicals as needed?
Generally not in residential. Commercial industrial you bet.
GFM
Just replaced mine today.. Completely packed up with sediment.
Quite common.
GFM
That's why there should always be a low water cutoff install on any boiler if the boiler lost water it was shut down the burner
Hi Grayfurnaceman! I enjoyed your video. I have this exact same model valve (a contractor just installed it 4 days ago). I awoke this morning to find water on the floor beside the boiler (the pressure relief valve in action). The boiler's pressure gauge showed 30psi and the temp was 140F. I turned the thermostat down and allowed everything to cool during the day. This evening (with the water temp below 60F), I closed off the systems main water feed valve, bled the pressure down to 10psi. and then re-opened the main water valve. Within about 10 or 20 seconds, without adding heat to the system, the pressure gauge showed 20psi. Isn't the function of this "pressure reducing valve' to keep the pressure at or below 12psi? Or, am I thinking about this wrong? It seems to me like they've installed a defective pressure reducing valve but I honestly don't claim to know very much about this stuff. Am I on the right track? Sincere thanks! -Rob
+oatbean What is happening here is the heating of the boiler expands the water and it pops the relief valve. To avoid this, there is either a bladder tank or an expansion tank. The bladder tank is a can located on the piping about 3 to 5 gallons. There is a tire type valve on one end. If you press the valve and water comes out, the bladder is burst.
If you have an expansion tank, it will be located in the joists above the boiler. It could be water logged. Hope this helps.
GFM
Hi grayfurnaceman! Thanks for the reply... but my larger question is... If there is no heat would it be possible for a functioning PRValve (which is preset to 12 psi) to be above 12 psi when there is NO heat present? I assume not (and I don't claim to know), but I'm just trying to understand for argument sake. [it was cold when I opened the main valve and the gauge went up from 10 to 20 lbs.]
The contractors are returning in the morning and if they try to sell me a different repair option I would like to keep them focused on this, if I have not assumed incorrectly.
Again many thanks for your time!
Rob
p.s. my expansion tank is one floor up... in the finished attic. It sounds pretty empty when I knock on it (except for the top 1/4 which sounds a bit more dense.
If a tiny little amount of water comes out, and then air, is that typically okay?
I'm trying to test my system to see If one of my two expansions tanks is bad, or if it's this valve. I have a small expansion tank next to the incoming water main, and then one down stream after the boiler.
I have this same situation going on. Was it a faulty reduction valve or the tank? Thanks
pressure adjustment? can the top screw be used?
Yes. If the reducing valve is over about 5 years old, it may not work and the valve will have to be replaced.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks grayfurnaceman, Our regulator is at least 28 years old. I backed off the hex lock nut and I was surprised that the top screw easily moved in both directions. I tightened it to increase the pressure 10 lbs and it's held at 10 lbs for a week now. Thank you.
I have a Bryant boiler. It's reading a 0 H20 psi. How do I add water?
+Grant Kozy Look for a domestic water connection. If the valve is off turn it on. If it is on, the regulating valve (downstream of the manual) has probably failed. You can try adjusting the valve but it will probably no work. Hope this helps.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman I made sure all the water valves were on. I lifted the reducing valve to the fill position this appeared to add water and pressurize the boiler. I think I solved the problem
hi, to fill the boiler with water where would i install this valve? thank you.
There is no way to be sure, but probably where the expansion tank is piped to the boiler piping.
GFM
You install it in the feed line 1/2 pipe right after the back flow valve
So don't mess with expansion pressure correct.
my psi is holding steady at 30,is that normal?
Connie Groblewsky no is not,
2 middle zones of house are working fine.
It sounds like the valve is feeding. It should feed up to the set pressure, then stop. Lifting the bail bypasses the reduction feature of the valve and if left up it will overpressure the boiler and the relief valve will open. Shut off the domestic water supply valve upstream of the reducing valve. If the humming stops, the valve is feeding. If so, I would be looking for a leak in the system. The pressure should be 13# for 1 story and 18# for 2. My bet is the valve is trying to open, but the screen on the inlet is plugged. But look for a leak in one of the lower levels. Either way, the valve needs to be replaced. Hope this helps
GFM
B&G isnt popular here see many more watts S1156
I've had one fail in 4 months
SHOW HOW TO ADJUST
I seldom adjust these valves. Adjusting a valve after it has been in operation for several years will usually result in no change in pressure or it will leak by and overpressure the boiler. If you must know, loosen then nut on top, turn then screw clockwise to increase pressure.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman I did that last night and my boiler stopped making gurggling noise. My valve was installed 20 years ago... I put on a new compression tank that had 16 psi while the valve was 12 PSI.
@@robertwadas Glad it worked. The higher pressure in the compression should be ok.
GFM
how do you adjust these to push less pressure
The screw on top is turned counter clockwise after the nut is loosened. If it is fairly old, it will probably not help.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman screwing this clockwise is for less water? Opposite for more or the other way around?
@@eduardoa4493 Clockwise for increased water pressure.
GFM
Hey at least run it through a test procedure to prove your theory
That Kitchen ad music sounds like music in a porn movie
Yep, those are piece of junk.
laughing my ass off, can you not rebuild it?
No parts.
GFM
And if they have parts they are almost the same price as a new unit.......