A small double acting hydraulic cylinder as a manual tiller sounds really simple and safe. You can also add a small pump from one hydraulic line to the other to correct the center of steering. If you keep positive pressure on both lines, No air can enter the system and you can detect small leaks via a pressure gauge.
Marine steering systems are bled up at the helm pump, The cylinder needs to be lower than the helm, otherwise it's easy peasy. If you look at the helm in the boat, there's a little vented cap on top. It bleeds itself and you just need to top it up as it does. Happy help sourcing or assembling any of that stuff. I'm a marine mechanic - that's my bread & butter.
could you do something like attach the wheel to a car steering rack but take the ends off, then put a solid cable to where the rudder is, then connect the cable to some kinda rose joint set up? im not sure if that helps lol
It might go slower with a load on it. Or maybe a variable speed controller on it. You could also add some position feedback electronics & display the position.
@@HankPronkthat is a good point. I feel like special disorientation can set in real quick underwater. On a different note, what happened to the E3000? I remember seeing when you made it wide instead of long and built the aluminum body around it but I feel like that was the last I saw of it.
I agree with the load idea, you should put a weight on it, simulating the square area of the rudder vs the rudder arc, calculating a volume of water/weight. Think of being in a canoe, initially steering with the paddle is heavy and gets light when in position. Keep up the good work!!
The tail cone is very narrow, so the pitman arm would be very short. Also the main tail cone is the ballast tank, meaning the hydraulic cylinder would need to be in a sealed space, and it would be very difficult to access. It gets to be a big job, but can be done.
I would think a rudder position indicator is an essential tool for underwater navigation for anything other than a lever with a defined center position and a "full travel rudder stop to stop" range of motion. How will you steer from the forward observation (bow) position? I can see that speed and depth control/trim are easy enough to deal with remotely, but a mechanical wheel/tiller seems a stretch. Or maybe that isn't an operating condition you anticipate?
A small double acting hydraulic cylinder as a manual tiller sounds really simple and safe. You can also add a small pump from one hydraulic line to the other to correct the center of steering. If you keep positive pressure on both lines, No air can enter the system and you can detect small leaks via a pressure gauge.
Marine steering systems are bled up at the helm pump, The cylinder needs to be lower than the helm, otherwise it's easy peasy. If you look at the helm in the boat, there's a little vented cap on top. It bleeds itself and you just need to top it up as it does.
Happy help sourcing or assembling any of that stuff. I'm a marine mechanic - that's my bread & butter.
could you do something like attach the wheel to a car steering rack but take the ends off, then put a solid cable to where the rudder is, then connect the cable to some kinda rose joint set up?
im not sure if that helps lol
It might go slower with a load on it. Or maybe a variable speed controller on it. You could also add some position feedback electronics & display the position.
Displaying the position would be nice.
@@HankPronkthat is a good point. I feel like special disorientation can set in real quick underwater.
On a different note, what happened to the E3000? I remember seeing when you made it wide instead of long and built the aluminum body around it but I feel like that was the last I saw of it.
@@lmlmanonfire13 It is sitting, I kinda lost interest in it. I will get back to it though.
I agree with the load idea, you should put a weight on it, simulating the square area of the rudder vs the rudder arc, calculating a volume of water/weight. Think of being in a canoe, initially steering with the paddle is heavy and gets light when in position. Keep up the good work!!
Or a worm gear
You can put a hydraulic cylinder inside the tailcone in place of this motor and drive a control horn off of the shaft, then you keep the streamline.
The tail cone is very narrow, so the pitman arm would be very short. Also the main tail cone is the ballast tank, meaning the hydraulic cylinder would need to be in a sealed space, and it would be very difficult to access. It gets to be a big job, but can be done.
I would think a rudder position indicator is an essential tool for underwater navigation for anything other than a lever with a defined center position and a "full travel rudder stop to stop" range of motion.
How will you steer from the forward observation (bow) position? I can see that speed and depth control/trim are easy enough to deal with remotely, but a mechanical wheel/tiller seems a stretch. Or maybe that isn't an operating condition you anticipate?
The sub will have modified trolling motors to propel it under water. It will steer by controlling thrust.
You could use an orbital contorl valve of a forklift
yes that works too.